2024 Ford Ranger (Raptor) Load Box Reinforcement step-by-step install
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- If you plan on putting any sort of rack over the bed of your truck that will haul over 88 lbs, ford recommends installing their load box reinforcement brackets. If you buy your bed rack or shell from them, they will install it but if you want to go your own way for the rack you are on your own.
Great video feel like this should be on the vehicle as standard
I couldn't agree more! it is crazy to me that if you want to use this truck as an overland rig you have to put brackets on the bed to put a rack on it... they should have fixed this on their own with a recall or service bulletin
Amazing! Thanks for that Video! I am soooooo relieved that one does not have to remove the tonneau cover, the bed liner and anything else from the bed as shown in most other videos for installing the J-Braces. That makes it so much easier and I wonder why others actually do remove all of that...
right on, i cant imagine how difficult this would be if you had to go through the floor of the bed somehow to get to these. It was still a big of a pain but totally doable. Cheers.
Cool, I continue to get good ideas for the Ranger Raptor I will be picking up this summer.
awesome... you will love it and glad you are getting something useful from the videos! Cheers.
Great video and entertaining too.
“Why do they use metric bolts?” 😂
Thanks mate, I will do this to my Raptor as soon as I get the brackets.
Haha, thanks for the comment! Hope you are able to get them installed quicker than I did
Great video as always!
Got my J-brace brackets installed last week, and put the rack and toolbox on my Ranger Raptor last night.
Probably now have close to 200 pounds plus setting on the rails, so figured best to add these.
Not that I am not still a little bit upset with Ford for making a truck that would need something like this added to be used to do typical truck task. LOL
Makes no sense to me why these were not installed at that factory.
Awesome... i am saving up for a full overland rig on the back... hoping to get a roll up tonneau cover, a 8" to 12" rack with a roof top tent and a solar shower... all said and done i think it will close to 250-300 lbs. and i agree with you completely that it is crazy that in order to use this truck as a truck you have to buy extra pieces and parts... didnt have to do that on my gladiator or my tacomas... oh well. it is done now.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video man. I went ahead and did it in my truck in under 2 hrs. I'm annoyed that Ford would do this in the first place but glad I dont have to go through them to get this done. You also learn a little more about your truck every time you do projects like this.
dude, that is awesome to hear that someone else did this on their own... it is crazy that ford charges $192 for this. I'm impressed that you got it in 2 hours... guess i'm just a slow poke haha. and i am with you in the sense that every time you do something like this to your vehicle you learn a little more and you gain a little more confidence to do more in the future!
@@flaberdoopin well I only did it under 2 because I watched your video while doing it! Thanks again and keep up the great content 🤙🏼
Right on, super glad it helped you! I just ordered my tonneau cover and the rack and overland rig is next on the list
Ford should really add this as an option
It should be a standard thing that we don’t even know about if you ask me. Trucks should come ready to go!
@@flaberdoopin Exactly car makers are starting some bs 😊 should be standard it's 100k car in OZ
@@lukewarm2075 it is pretty crazy for sure!
Thanks for sharing, I will probably be adding this just for future considerations. Overall, not a terribly difficult task. Certainly easier than dropping the headliner as you did in previous video. :-)
It was much easier than the headliner for sure! And it is crazy that ford is charging $192 for this install!
This is a world model built in three or four factories globally and there are many variants. The 2 litre is the diesel engine favoured in many countries. The wiring harness is probably for the axle proximity potentiometer fitted on most VW Amarok variants and seem to be fitted to more newer Ford Ranger variants as time goes on. What for, I do not know, unless it is for auto levelling the headlights.
Yeah, I get that they build it globally, I don’t understand the thought process behind the different options in the US though. I’d like AC in the back and painted drive shafts
I asked about removing the fender flares to paint them. I appreciate you showing the clips and removal. I guess ill need to find a part number for replacement clips incase i break them when i remove the flare. Good video, can't wait to see what you do next.
i am going to go to my dealer in the next few weeks to get my first free oil change and i am going to talk to them about the fender flare clips because the driver side was actually only held on by 4 clips when there should have been 7. i mean it was plenty secure, but if there is a spot for a clip, the engineers planned it that way for a reason so they should all be clipped! If i get a part number before you i'll let you know!
Thank you
Look at those holes in the side of the chassis rail! I’ve sprayed inside and outside the box sections and fitted grommets to those holes in the outer wall. The only reason they stamp those out is to let dirty and salty water inside the box so that by its tenth birthday it will have rusted through and you need to buy a new truck.
I clean out my chassis as well, not sure i want to plug them all up just in case i missed a whole up top somewhere and end up trapping the water in there. Also, a little over the top to say the only reason they put them there is for it to rust out so you need a new truck in 10 years. Not sure I can get onboard with that message
@@flaberdoopin Only the holes in the outer facing walls. Can you think of any other rational reason for stamping all those holes. Toyota don’t do it, or at least not on the Thai built Hi-Lux. Toyota still rust of course, especially quickly in areas that use road salt in Winter, but mainly due to very poor black paint.
either weight savings or other material cost savings. i have a hard time believing that they would do this for the express purpose of their frames rusting to force people to buy new vehicles... that would not be a good look for them. but who knows... i have been wrong before
Here is video idea, I would love to see a how too video on installing a Putco switchblade led tailgate light bar.
I know how you seem to enjoy cool looking lights and you seem really pretty good at wiring in lights .
I am not really planning to buy a switchblade light exactly, but it seems the same wiring is required to make those work, as it does my lighted headache rack, which at the moment I have the lights working, but the truck now thinks it has a trailer behind it, which is canceling out several of my safety features , like my blind side monitors, cross path defection, and rear park sensors are all disabled when a trailer is thought to be connected. I Would love to see your take on installing something similar like the switchblade light. I have seen these on RUclips installed and working on the back of 5th gen Rangers. I am betting they would or should fit the Rangers.
I will have to look into the light you are talking about. I would have also just thought to hook it to the trailer lights but I didn’t realize it would automatically signal that there was a trailer there and change other things. I’ll do some research for sure, seems interesting
i have a ranger raptor too but i seems to be the unlucky one with B pillar rattle sound coming out, look like some of the ranger from the australia and asia area have this issue. Hope the us one dosent.
thats interesting... i have noticed some rattling in the B-Pillar as well, i thought it was the plastic trim piece up by the window... it is not bad at all, but i notice it every once in a while, i haven't tried to do anything about it yet but if it gets worse i'll get to work on it for sure!
@@flaberdoopin Only rattle I have had so far was the rear seatback was not fully latched when I first got the truck.
Figured that out a couple weeks later, that it was just the rear seat back wasn't fully latched in place.
Now whenever I fold that back seat back down that I make sure it is latched securely whenever I put it back up.
That sound was originally sounding like it was in the right-side B pillar or right rear door area.
that's interesting... i do notice that getting the back seatback to latch is no joke... you gotta want it and give it a solid slam! overall, i have noticed minimal interior noise from loose parts in the truck but every once in a while the speakers will resonate just right to cause a rattle up behind the driver side window. I haven't taken the time to really investiage it though.
Ok cool thanks
Any time
Hey Mr.Flaberdoopin I just did this on mine but when I got the drivers side wheel well apart I noticed my fuel overflow drain hose (the tine hole at the bottom of the fill port) was disconnected and there was another barbed plastic hose that looked like it fit perfectly was just sitting there so I connected them up. I didn't have any hose clamps at the time that fit but was wondering if you notice anything off about that on yours?
That is interesting and I may pull mine back off to see if I find anything like that. I didn’t notice anything while I was in there but I’m going to go take a look right now to see if I can see anything without taking it apart first
My understanding is Ford will start paying for labor at the end of July 2024.
that's interesting. I called several dealers about it becasue there is a service bulletin out on them but they all told me that ford will only install them if you buy a ford bed cover or rack. i hope you are right though, they should own up to the fact that they made an offroad truck that cant have a rack on the bed without structural modification, not cool!
@@flaberdoopin They'll offset 169.00 labor for the install only if you purchase a bed topper from Ford. This is a lazy design flaw by Ford. It was present in the last generation and would have been an easy assembly line upgrade for the 6th gens but they decided to continue to offset the responsibility (and cost) to the customer. I am sure legal said they HAVE to put the supports in for free if they are selling a 500 lb topper. Very disappointing. I feel sorry for the average Joe/Jane that has no clue about this and are unknowingly killing their warranty with aftermarket items. I mean, if you are not an enthusiast, how would you know your trucks not naturally strong enough for some sort of topper, toolbox, rails?
@@William_Halsey1972 is correct. I was misinformed by the service desk employee, who was in turn corrected by the service manager. It should be covered.
what size are the rivets?
They are one size bigger than a standard rivet gun can handle. I think they are 7/32 but not sure, I know that a 3/16 rivet gun isn’t big enough
Not to get off-topic, but where did you get your phone Mount on your dash
it is a mophie mag charger car vent mount that i got at the apple store. you can get it on amazon too. it is pretty good but sometimes it gets a little sideways and when offroading it will dip down a bit but for every day driving it is fantastic. If BulletPoint ever comes out with a mount for the Ranger, i will switch to that but for now, this thing is good to go and it charges my phone too.
I never would have bought my 2024 ranger if I knew this B.S. is required to use a bed topper. I'm so sick of Ford's stupidity.
It wasn't that hard to install, it is a bummer but I'm not going to cut off my nose to spite my face... i still love my ranger, just seems like ford should have paid to fix this and not put it on the owners.
@@flaberdoopin I like the truck also. But I just did my first oil change. Never had a vehicle that was such a pain in ass to change a stupid oil filter. P.s. I have the 2.3L. 2.7 in my old F150 was a breeze. LOL
yeah, that is pretty crazy... it is super easy on the 3.0L. Cheers.