@@c45-w5h depends on modification to the bike. a S&S 585 is a good top end power cam. But needs some compression to work properly, valve springs also need to be changed.
why even bother on a kart with a Harley engine, sounds like a joke to me other than low end torque, Harley engines are horrible at high end HP, it's why they can't compete consistently in flat track and why Indian smokes them time and time again in the grand nationals
If you own a M8 like my 2018 Stage 4 Fatbob, 2017 Stage 2 and 2019 Stage 3 CVOs don't waste money on Harley stage kits. The engine will blow up due to oil pump design flaws and/or plastic tappet guides. Yeah and $50k motorcycle with plastic tappet guides. Neither the dealer who installs it or H corp office will disclose this. S&S, Fueling or Zipper all make higher quality performance kits.
So you up your displacement, compression, and power. what about all of the extra heat that will be generated by the motor? I full time commute, and heat in the DC area summers and traffic is an issue. I am ok with my HD 103CI motor with a stage 1, but I would think heat would become a major issue with stage 3 in summer traffic. how would you suggest keeping you motor from boiling. thanks for your time.
One of the biggest issues with motors generating too much heat (especially air cooled engines) is it being improperly tuned and running lean. Most stock bikes are lean from the factory at around 14.7 : 1 AFR when ideally they should operate closer to 13.2 : 1. But you are correct, adding to the compression ratio could cause the bike to run a little hotter. If you have a consistent commute involving sitting in traffic for extended periods we would recommend leaning towards a Stage 2 style build - intake, exhaust, mild cam and tuner. The bike shouldn't run any hotter than stock with a proper tune and be much quicker.
Air cooled engines are cooled by their oil. You could add one or more oil coolers. Oil coolers with or without electric fans. Several companies offer cylinder head cooling fan kits which blow cool air directly onto your cylinder heads.
I’ve been running Barnett clutch’s in my street and dirt bikes for years. Good stuff
Techno research is the right way and best to tune!
2015 Harley FatBob 103 Ci
How much $$$ would this build be and is it really noticable when ride n?
If I know I'm going to max out my 103 engine should I skip stage 2 and do everything when I do the stage 3 to save the coast of doing cams twice
Yes, that would save you some time and money.
Thanks for the feedback what would be best cam for hp over tq
@@c45-w5h depends on modification to the bike. a S&S 585 is a good top end power cam. But needs some compression to work properly, valve springs also need to be changed.
@@jpcycles thanks
Is it better to go with a S&S stage 3 rather than stage 3 from harley??
yes. S&S is far better at developing horsepower than HD . HD outsources everything, S&S runs race departments in house.
@@jpcycles Thank you very much for your reply I will definitely be going with S&S
Hogs!!!!!!!
Very interesting, wonder how a stage 4 would work for a go kart?
why even bother on a kart with a Harley engine, sounds like a joke to me other than low end torque, Harley engines are horrible at high end HP, it's why they can't compete consistently in flat track and why Indian smokes them time and time again in the grand nationals
@@greenmarine5 because why not.
If you own a M8 like my 2018 Stage 4 Fatbob, 2017 Stage 2 and 2019 Stage 3 CVOs don't waste money on Harley stage kits. The engine will blow up due to oil pump design flaws and/or plastic tappet guides. Yeah and $50k motorcycle with plastic tappet guides. Neither the dealer who installs it or H corp office will disclose this. S&S, Fueling or Zipper all make higher quality performance kits.
So you up your displacement, compression, and power. what about all of the extra heat that will be generated by the motor? I full time commute, and heat in the DC area summers and traffic is an issue. I am ok with my HD 103CI motor with a stage 1, but I would think heat would become a major issue with stage 3 in summer traffic. how would you suggest keeping you motor from boiling. thanks for your time.
One of the biggest issues with motors generating too much heat (especially air cooled engines) is it being improperly tuned and running lean. Most stock bikes are lean from the factory at around 14.7 : 1 AFR when ideally they should operate closer to 13.2 : 1. But you are correct, adding to the compression ratio could cause the bike to run a little hotter. If you have a consistent commute involving sitting in traffic for extended periods we would recommend leaning towards a Stage 2 style build - intake, exhaust, mild cam and tuner. The bike shouldn't run any hotter than stock with a proper tune and be much quicker.
Air cooled engines are cooled by their oil. You could add one or more oil coolers. Oil coolers with or without electric fans. Several companies offer cylinder head cooling fan kits which blow cool air directly onto your cylinder heads.
pR1mal *
pR1mal my initial thought.
Is there 120 Cube kit from S&S for the Milwaukee 8
Not yet. They do have one in development. When its available we will do a build.
Thanks
All that looks about
6-7 thousand, , but yeah get it all at once