F30 BMW (2011-2019) Brake Pads, Rotors and Wear Sensor Change
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- Опубликовано: 26 апр 2017
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Today, we show you how to change your front brake pads, wear sensor and rotors on your F30 with the BASE brake kit.
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I thought it might be helpful to include the torque specs for the caliper bolts (110 nm or 81.8 ft. lbs) Lugs should be 103 ft lbs.
Do you know the torque spec for the Allen key?
@@christianpritchett688the rotor set screw is always 16 nm
Great guide! I'm going to use this to rust proof my brake Calipers and disc hubs soon. I didn't know about unscrewing the reservoir to relieve pressure. Once again, great video!!
Thank you SO much for making this video. Swapped out the rotors, pads and sensors on my 2013 F30 yesterday and it would have been a nightmare without your guidance and tips. you rock!!
PorradaVFR same process to the rear tires?
Thanks for step by step instruction. Bit nervous to change a wear sensor (I replaced the sensor also) but was easier than I thought. I replaced with Bosch Rotor and Akebono Pads. See how the new rotor /pad will perform.
New rotors rotated unevenly for me (i.e sometimes rubbing against pads). Took them out then used a wire brush to smooth out the edge of the inner ring on the hub where the rotors rest. Big improvement.
Hey Bryan, that's an awesome video with excellent detailed instructions. My buddy did the job after viewing the video and saved me almost $250 BMW labor costs on my 2011 328xi. Thanks!
Why is your check engine light on?
Thank you for this video. Keep doing what you are doing Bryan. You are a valuable asset to BMW DIY community.
I like you videos Brian but there’s a few issues this one I’d like to point out for safety and potential wear or damage factors to the car
1. Note for us Brits / and some other Euro countries, European BMW’s use locking wheel nuts, never use an impact wrench on a locking wheel not there is a high risk of it shearing the head of the nut off and you will be screwed, quite literally! Specialist equipment will then be required to remove the damaged locking wheel nut key, trust me I’ve found this out myself, the hard way! Although impact wrenches are great, a beaker bar for all wheel nuts is safer.
2. Always clean the hub with a wire brush after removing the brake disc (known as rotors in USA), the incumbent hub builds up corrosion deposits especially on higher mileage cars and if you just place your new disc on it may not seat perfectly causing possible vibration when braking.
3. When releasing the brake reservoir cap you should take some brake fluid out with large syringe and injected back in after re-assembly of the brakes, you do this as a precaution because if fluid has been topped up as part of a dealer service due to pad wear then when pushing the brake calliper piston back it can cause brake fluid to overflow from the reservoir and into the engine bay, and it’s highly corrosive, it will strip car paint! I also put an absorbent rag around the open reservoir to be safe.
4. A thin layer of copper grease should be added to the back of the brake pads where they press into the calliper this helps prevent squealing.
5. The calliper bolts should either be replaced or if you are using the existing ones (which is generally fine if in good condition) you should use a thin layer of Blue Loctite on the calliper bolt thread where it screws into the calliper (generally from the tip 5mm in). And tighten to the recommended Nm torque setting for the calliper. The Blue Locktite prevents the bolts potentially loosening due to the high forces and vibrations they are subjected to under braking. I was told this by a BMW service engineer a long time ago, relevant to how they do things in the UK, not sure about USA but I’d guess its the same.
Hope this helps.
Great feedback. Going to try to do mine this weekend.
Spot on!
Clean the brake surface of the rotors also before installing.
Ok Karen
@@delias17 they were great add-ons from what Bryan showed, degent.
Awesome vid man, I’m changing out the rotors and pads on my 13 F30. This helped out a lot.
Excellent tutorial! Thanks for taking the time...great job!
Excellent video and some very astute viewers and comments below. I also like to brush on a little bit of anti-seize between the hub assembly and backside of the rotor surface. This helps prevent any rust build up and the next time you have to remove the rotor it will pop off easy and not be rusted onto the hub.
Do you have a video for the rear brake pads? Along with any suggested pads and rotors?
Hi, Great video .. just one question, can you also add the torque specs to which different bolts need to be tightened?
Excellent tutorial for another RUclips mechanic! I didn't need to swap out my rotors, only the brake pads. Rotors were real smooth... I didn't even take them to my local auto store to turn them! Just swapped out the pads! The 18 mm bolts on the passenger side are the hardest of the job.....used a sissor jack with my rachet as I didn't have a breaker bar, worked like a charm. The rear brake pads are a breeze folks.....just need an 18 mm allen socket for the bolts behind the dust caps....they come off real easy. No need to take off the caliper if you're only doing the pads. Acquired Akebono pads from the store mentioned in this video....they come with the sensor wires.
Thanks for the video! Saved me $$$
lol nice work
Thank you. Video is well lit. You instruct well. And overall a great video. Thank you for breaking down this process.
Thank you!
Thankful for the video, saved me £200 being able to do it myself. I did find pumping the pedal before putting the reservoir cap back on was much better.
Your sense of humor is hilarious, I subbed!
Amazing progress from 6 years ago you guys prove anything is possible
Great video! Very clear and precise. Thanks a bunch!!
My OCD activated when I seen you install the new rotors on a dirty hub. Lol. Great video by the way. I’m going to be doing the brakes on my sister 320i this weekend and this video really helps.
Thanks for this video! I am currently replacing my brakes now using this video!
Very clear, very nice thank you. I am going to give it a go on my F31 320D
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us I am sure it has helped plenty of people. I wanted to ask did you have to deactivate the brakes first before starting on them?
Great job Brian. Love the videos.
Great vid I'm going to replace my brake pads soon. I have a question though what's the torque value for the lug nuts on the wheel and the bolts behind the calipers?
Hi, thanks for the vid! DId I miss the part where you removed the pins holding the pads in? It's not clear to me what these bolts are? What tool do I need to remove them?
Great tip with the opening the brake reservoir cap. You can hand push the caliper piston back in, but the brake fluid overflows from the brake reservoir. Those 18mm bolts are a real bitch especially at the rear.
Just changed my brakes , this was a GREAT video
Legendary guy man really got me into doin my own maintenance
You da man! I don't even have my F30 anymore and I still watch your vids lol very informative.
Lol. Thanks!
Awesome vid as always, Bryan! Now I know what i'm going to do next on my F30:)
Do it!
again thanks for a great video. helped me alot
Great video, man!
+BMW Fanatic thanks!
Hi Bryan, I think as far as instructional videos goes your videos are the best!! Easy to follow and understand, excellent video and audio quality. I owned a BMW 2006 330xi. Can I use the instructions of this video to replace the rotors and brake pads on my car? Have you produced a video on rear breaks?
really helpful, thanks and keep going
Great Video. Step by step is the best way to teach. I Subscribed.
Great video!! very useful. Where do you put the 'safety' jack stand once you have jacked the car up using the jack & jack pad?
I upgraded to Stoptech brakes about 6 months ago and the front pads didnt fit. Went into my local car parts store and those didnt fit either. So i had to buy oem pads which sucks. Im glad to see the hawk pads worked well on yours though.
awesome. thanks for making videos like these
Sure thing, thanks for watching!
Kies Motorsports
How much torque should there be on the 2 caliper bolts?
I couldn't ask for a more detailed video, thank you!
Sure thing!
Thank you for the video. Dealer wanted $1200 for front and back. Saved me a few dollars with your help. Thank you.
Awesome, great to hear!
Hey man! Great video! Do they make a kit for the rear? I can't find anything
All your videos are spot on. Much appreciated.
Thanks 👍🏼
Hilarious. Looks like a whole bunch of us out here are gearing up to do our brakes.
Thanks for the great timing Bryan.
Please post some follow up on the results. I have Zimmerman rotors and Textar pads in the garage just waiting to be put on.
Really had a hard time making a choice so ended up a bit conservative.
I worry that I should have gone with the Hawk Performance pads.
Anyway ... let us know how it feels compared to previous. Cheers man.
Hi Rob, thanks for your note. Hope it helps! So far, they work great :)
-Bryan
Nothing wrong with Oem. Love Zimmerman’s z-coat. Looks a lot better a few thousand miles down the road when the hat isn’t rusted to heck. The textars will be my pick too. That dust means it’s stopping!
I want to avoid the brake dust issue, so I#ll be avoiding OEM. Rob, do those two options give less brake dust?
Thanks kies, got an f30 last year and I do all my own maintenance. I coulda picked someone else but I’m a longtime fan. Thanks for your help, be safe and stay dangerous
Great video! I just need to get some tools and some confidence and I'll be doing mine in no time!😁
It's so easy! When you finish you will be excited!
Don't you have to use a diagnostics tool after the brake change? What would happen if you didn't take the sensor wire off?
Awesome video thanks a bunch.
Great video! :D How much torque should be on the 2 bolts for caliper?
Jack Imjeen yeah I’d like to know as well...
Hello , awesome video , quick question what if I bought oem brake pads , and I buy those awesome drilled power stop rotors that you bought as well , will that be any problem ? Very curious
Another quality video! Just out of curiosity why not do a high temp painting of the calipers while you were in there?
Great video man. Would you be able to help me with the M performance big brake kit brake pad & rotor change for the F30? The calipers are a bit different than the stock oem ones.
Thanks!
Great informative video best one I have seen !
Thanks!
You have been a great service to the community. Thank you for saving us money!
Sure thing!
Is it the same process for the rear?
Similar, but a little different with the ebrake
Thanks for the video, I did mine yesterday, my mechanic advised me to check there were no cracks in the handbrake shoes while i had the disc off, just thought I'd share
Thanks Brian for the video. what size are your tires width and sidewall. Thanks
What about bedding the brakes? Did you have to do some sort of procedure?
Very nice video!! I like watching when I have time. Merci!!
Great video really appreciate it. Does anyone know the torque for the lug nuts on the tire?
Awesome thanks for the knowledgeable videos.
finally been waiting dor this one
+Ivan Lopez 👍🏼
Ivan Lopez rsaid
Great video! Thank you. Inspired by you. I replaced the front pads of my car with Akebono from fcpeuro. I found the the rotor got very hot after driving it. Is this normal? Thank you.
Did you clean the sliders well and also lubricated them? If that rotor if heating much, it's most likely because the brake pads are dragging....either sliders don't slide well, or the piston is not moving properly..
Great, thanks !
Hi,
Thank you for this tutorial.
Was wondering if I need to bleed the brakes?
My brakes love to squeak on my f30 did u happen to have the same issue before and did this fix it?
Nice “break” down 👍🏻
good video. what torque setting did you use thanks
Great video! Just recently changed my m235 pads to posi-quiet ceramic pads, but i cheaped out and did not change the rotors and reused them. They squeal LOUD, like deafening loud, for the first few stops. They are pretty quiet afterwards though, wonder if that and 14 degree weather has something to do with this or the mechanic didnt grease up the hardware adequately Hmmm...
May be the weather
One important part that was missed, is the applying of brake lube on the pad tongues and pad sliders? Is that not needed on the BMW style caliper? Love ur vids man, keep up the great work :) I'm looking to pick up a 08-10 135i with N54 in the near future.
Perfect! Thank you.
+Rudy Linhub 😀
Thanks for the video! How about a video for the rear brakes? Do you have one?
I'll have one in about 40,000 miles ;)
Cool!
Great video bro. The sensor part was the tricky part. Everything else is easy.
Getting ready to do my break rotors/pads, what are the proper torque specs for caliper bolts and wheel lug nuts for F30 335i xDrive with Msport
I think 16mn
17mm and 110nm
@@TranquilRide F30 have M14 lugs, so need 140Nm.
Is this the same as doing the rear I'm guessing. Apart from the sensor being on the right instead of the left??
Thanks for the video! Just one question. When you reset the light, how do you know that you're resetting for the front brakes and not the rear?
Sure thing! You'll see the options when you scroll through
Excellent job! Thank you!
Thanks!
Very helpful - thanks Bryan
Sure thing!
Brian id love to see a parking brake adjustment demo?
Just replaced the rear rotors and pads on my f30. I wish my rotors came off as easy as yours lol had to give them some encouragement with a 3lb hammer. Overall very pleased and not too hard to do.
I was so surprised how easy it did come off! Now on the other hand.. I didn't show it.. but it took me probably 5 plus minutes to get each wheel off!
Kies Motorsports Oh yes that was almost the hardest part, I had to lay my boot into the wheels with some serious kicks! I was surprised how stuck on tbey were. A good layer of copper anti seize will hopefully help in the future.
@@KiesMotorsports I've since replaced all rotors and pads, used Ate ceramic pads, man they're fantastic, outstandingly smooth and DUST FREE!
You are awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!...........Thanks for making this video.............Please make one for the rear brakes when you can.............Thanks again!!!!!!!!
Hi brian, can you tell me the torque setting for the two boys for calipers..thanks.
Excellent video
People asking video about the rear breaks, I just did mine, and it's very much the same.
Only thing is that the rotor might take bit more work to take off due to it being gripped from the back of the break also.
I thought rear was easier.
Great video! I have 2015 f30 328i x drive do these parts fit my model? Can you give me a link to order those same parts. Tnx.
I learned how to replace my car brake pads and roto through those video thank you so much
Thanks for the video! Will the same procedure apply for the M performance brakes?
Sure thing! Should be similar
Hi Bryan. Thanks for the video. Can you please share the torque specs ? I have a 2014 328i . Love your videos! Keep up the good work!
how many miles does you car has??
Looking for the ideal setup for 18” wheels and mags on my 2013 328i x . Even though the offset is different on front and rear can i just stick to 35mm?
How do you like the Power Stop rotors? I have them with stock BMW pads and I get terrible brake fade on hard stops, it could also be that my pads need to be replaced.
Really good video. Nice
Hey from Australia. I have a 2014 BMW 320D sport which needs new rotors and pads. What do you recommend?
It's helpful that you don't use anything extra like other videos. Just tools readily available.
Thanks great job
Where did you place the jack stand? Was it under the central jacking point?
Hey Bryan, what rotors and brake pads would you recommend for my 2013 335IX? Thanks.
thank u finally been waiting for this video u just saved me tons of money thanks you
Any time :)
Great video!
Thanks!
I have everything ready to replace brakes and rotors on my 330xi. My car also needs brake fluid flush/bleed. My question is, what do I do first? the break / rotors job or, bleeding the brake fluid? Please advise.
Bryan,
My brakes are spongy (almost to floor) after having someone replacing 2 sensors, 2 pads and turn the rotors. They weren't spongy before. I did have an error code in my dash that indicated "brakes" so this is why the work was done but the brakes were not never spongy until now. They said the lines were not opened/bled...so no air in line and no leak. I pump the brakes and push down hard and they slowly sink down. Any idea what the issue could be ??
Wow you’ve come a long way in 6 years!
How about knowing which brakes to buy based on the braking system You have? I have a 2013 with msport and m power so I have upgraded oem brakes and I’m not sure what kit to buy
thank you! Great video.