The whole wood and strip book matching is so incredible, why even stain at all? Ok, so I heard you say the buyer wanted a stain job, but did he see the wood design prior to staining? 😕
Who needs a power sander, when you can sand as fast as you do Nick. 😝 Beautiful work thus far man! Been great watching this thing evolve from a trip to Lil’ Rhodie for the lumber, to where it is now. Thanks for sharing your tricks, tips, and knowledge!
I want to compliment you on the footage and editing. I can see there goes a lot of effort in that too. Top quality, just like your work on the microBootlegger Sport. Thank you
Really beautiful Nick! Maybe this will be my next project. Milled up a bunch of Port Orford Cedar a couple of years ago and have been waiting for the “right” boat.
Nice prep today. Good tip adding the silica to help reduce epoxy out flow. Although I would have thought to allow the epoxy just a little more time to “tack up” before pulling the tape. This is giving me courage to actually attempt “staining” on my next project.
My reasoning for pulling the tape early is the tape actually could create a capillary to suck the low viscosity in under the edge. Since I had the epoxy applied in a thin enough layer that I didn't think it would flow out, I chose be more concerned about the possibility of bleeding under the tape. I probably would have been fine either way.
Nick, boat is looking good.I was wondering if you have ever made a paddle? If so would you consider doing a video series of making a paddle?Thanks, Joe
I do make paddles and I would like to do some videos about it. I may make a paddle for this kayak, but I have some almost ready to go, so I may leave doing video until later.
Kayak is looking great - the matched grain pattern is so cool. Who makes the hand-sanding block with dust collection? Thanks. . Looking forward to seeing this kayak with varnish on it.
Mirka Dust Collecting Sanding Block 5-inch - amzn.to/2s4EzDI Mirka Dust Collecting Sanding Block 8-inch - amzn.to/2sbyy9d The longboard is made by Hutchins, there is a link in the description.
@@NickSchade Thank you. I'm currently hooked on this micro bootlegger sport kayak build series. Debating whether or not to go for the plans and building myself one.
Really not that much. Probably less that 1/32-inch [much less than a mm]. The only time I am seriously removing wood is on the first pass, where I'm shaping the strips. And at that point, I'm only removing enough to make the surface fair. After that I'm just removing enough wood to eliminate the scratches which are really very shallow. Parts of the boat with a lot of curvature will have the most removed in the process of fairing the flat strip facets into smooth curves, but flat areas have almost nothing removed.
The whole wood and strip book matching is so incredible, why even stain at all? Ok, so I heard you say the buyer wanted a stain job, but did he see the wood design prior to staining? 😕
Who needs a power sander, when you can sand as fast as you do Nick. 😝
Beautiful work thus far man! Been great watching this thing evolve from a trip to Lil’ Rhodie for the lumber, to where it is now. Thanks for sharing your tricks, tips, and knowledge!
I think this is a perfect example of when you put the work in, you get the results.
Great precautionary tip with the addition of the Colloidal silica ! Boy have I learned a lot ! Thanks Nick !
I want to compliment you on the footage and editing. I can see there goes a lot of effort in that too. Top quality, just like your work on the microBootlegger Sport. Thank you
Looks like you have the same vision problem I have. I have to remove my glasses to see up close. Backwards for most people my age. 🙂
Looks like a finely rolled Cigar!
Really beautiful Nick! Maybe this will be my next project. Milled up a bunch of Port Orford Cedar a couple of years ago and have been waiting for the “right” boat.
Wow! This boat is really looking amazing. Excellent as always!
More nice work Nick
Nice prep today. Good tip adding the silica to help reduce epoxy out flow. Although I would have thought to allow the epoxy just a little more time to “tack up” before pulling the tape. This is giving me courage to actually attempt “staining” on my next project.
My reasoning for pulling the tape early is the tape actually could create a capillary to suck the low viscosity in under the edge. Since I had the epoxy applied in a thin enough layer that I didn't think it would flow out, I chose be more concerned about the possibility of bleeding under the tape.
I probably would have been fine either way.
Nick, boat is looking good.I was wondering if you have ever made a paddle? If so would you consider doing a video series of making a paddle?Thanks, Joe
I do make paddles and I would like to do some videos about it. I may make a paddle for this kayak, but I have some almost ready to go, so I may leave doing video until later.
Could you use a belt sander instead of the fairing board?
If you are skilled with a belt sander it might work, but cedar is soft and a belt sander is aggressive...
Kayak is looking great - the matched grain pattern is so cool. Who makes the hand-sanding block with dust collection? Thanks. . Looking forward to seeing this kayak with varnish on it.
Mirka Dust Collecting Sanding Block 5-inch - amzn.to/2s4EzDI
Mirka Dust Collecting Sanding Block 8-inch - amzn.to/2sbyy9d
The longboard is made by Hutchins, there is a link in the description.
You do amazing work I just don't understand why you need to stain it I think it looks beautiful the way it is
Reason 1: the customer wants it. Reason 2: Why not bump it up a notch? Reason 3: refer to Reason 1.
I think you mentioned that earlier
Who made the resin pump that you used prior to mixing
michaelengineering.com
@@NickSchade Thank you. I'm currently hooked on this micro bootlegger sport kayak build series. Debating whether or not to go for the plans and building myself one.
That epoxy pump is nice! Where did you get it? Is the ratio variable for different brands?
www.michaelengineering.com/Pumps/ You can get them in any ratio, and you can change the ratio after you purchase it.
With all the passes of sanding and planing, how much total thickness do you think you remove from the wood?
Really not that much. Probably less that 1/32-inch [much less than a mm]. The only time I am seriously removing wood is on the first pass, where I'm shaping the strips. And at that point, I'm only removing enough to make the surface fair.
After that I'm just removing enough wood to eliminate the scratches which are really very shallow.
Parts of the boat with a lot of curvature will have the most removed in the process of fairing the flat strip facets into smooth curves, but flat areas have almost nothing removed.
That's a relief. thanks.
Majoofi been meaning to ask that exact question. Im looking at my build and i will be removing far more... Im no Nick Schade lol
Whoever gave this a thumbs down should have his thumb ........ epoxied to his right shoulder blade.
Everyone is entitled to their opinion.
You're just being nice. No they don't. lol
John D Everyone but John D is entitled to their opinion. LOL.
:-)