Hey Nick I'd first like to thank you for your book the Stripped Built Sea Kayak. I built the Guillimot design 18.5 years ago. That kayak still turns heads to this day. I have paddled over a thousand miles in it. I camp out of it fish from it and take lots of short day trips in it. My daughter is now 21 yrs old and she use to ride in the back storage compartment when she was three yrs old. It has several battle scars and indured three severe ones from unforseen events. I took it home and fixed the wounds and finished it off with some fresh varnish. It truley has taken on a character of its own. I get stopped all the time by people to ask about the kayak and people are always surprised that I built it. I am always quick to tell them who designed the boat and were to go online to see more of your master pieces. I am planning on ordering the plans for the 19ft expedition model so I can one day go and partisipate in the Everglades Challenge. I live in Mo but did alot of work in Florida. Thanks again for all your videos and designs. Most of all I would like to thank you for the time you have put into your passion and sharring it with the world.
Bam! Final and near final finishes on beautiful wood makes all the custom effort to build with wood worth it. Polypropylene, aluminum, fiber glass, and Kevlar have their place in the world of canoe and kayak building. But wood has more than a place in this field of discipline. Wood makes its boats living vessels that take us on more than journeys, they take us on quests.
Very nice touch with the clearcoat. Nick you said you use MAS epoxy for wetting out and West for fill coats. Are the work times pretty similar with each product when you use the corresponding hardner? You know whats great about you and the work your doing, you are straight up with no gimmicks," I dont feel comfortable doing this on customers build", but will try it out on my own build. That is showing your professionalism and true to the trade morals. It shows in your work........
You know, I haven't actually timed the cure to compare West vs MAS. I generally leave the shop and let it cure overnight.They are both hard the next morning. Neither one is fast enough to get a full cure in time to do another layup the same day, so the exact cure time is not that relevant. West is a bit faster, but from a practical matter, it doesn't matter.
The guys I learned resin infusion from over a decade ago used to use 2K clear from a can. They’d spray the mold with it in the same manor as gel coat and then infuse. I was surprised poly or vinyl didn’t eat it away. Worked really well.
I don't currently have a formal video. I have some photos of the process, both doing it by hand and later with a CNC machine at: goo.gl/photos/EQeriERGs6jdbcxD7
Nick, Your workmanship and attention to detail is amazing. Two questions. The first is kayak design ... why don't you and other wooden kayak builders use flotation chambers? Is there sufficient reserve buoyancy and ease of dewatering you just don't need them? Second, you have, over the course of the different hulls shown several variables of glasses (carbon, Kevlar/carbon, S glass, etc.) and exterior coatings (automotive clear coat (UV improved protection) and varnishes. If you had to select the best of all options, what would that list look like? Jim
Hi Jim, I do often put bulkheads in my kayaks for flotation, but when building for a customer I do what they want. I never put in bulkheads unless I have a hatch in the deck to access the volume. A permanently sealed space without access is asking for problems. If the customer does not want hatches (usually due to aesthetic reasons) I don't add bulkheads. There are a variety of considerations when choosing a reinforcing fabric: strength, weight, appearance etc. Fiberglass is strong, somewhat heavy and invisible; Carbon Fiber is less strong, heavier (in a hand layup), and black; Kevlar is tougher, heavier (in a hand layup) and yellow. If time and money were no issue, I would probably go with a layup similar to this one. Glass on the outside (S-Glass on the hull) so you could see the wood, and a Carbon/Kevlar for stiffness and toughness on the interior. I would also apply all the layers with using the resin infusion method to reduce the weight and increase the strength of all the layers. Varnish vs Automotive clear coat is usually a decision of time vs money. Varnish is cheaper out of pocket but takes longer. Spray is probably longer lasting, but cost more even though it takes very little time. I'm actually thinking of using the rattle can stuff on the exterior of this boat, just to see how it goes.
I was wondering if you could add a link to the peelply? You talked about it as "nylon cloth." Would buying simply nylon cloth from a local fabric store be a possible cheaper substitute? I presume once used it cannot be reused?
Here is one source: www.fibreglast.com/product/Nylon_Released_Peel_Ply_582/Vacuum_Bagging_Films_Peel_Ply_Tapes you could probably use any old nylon from the fabric store, but there are several different kinds made especially for composites work.
Did anyone else know that this kayak build was contracted by Darth Vader????? @21:30 You can tell that Nick gave him a shot at spraying the interior!!!!! Nick is he REALLY like what he appears in the movies????? LoL just joking.... nice work Nick!!!!!!
I am not worried about the clear coat getting on the outside as it will be sanded more before it is done. I am experimenting with the clear coat because it should be more durable than standard varnish.
I'm using a seat I had previously carved, I don't have the whole process on video, but I do have some photos of the process available at photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPQq-h4c062FtMwGeAzV3onGFEgGtMYVrfGOALKau0ZIyJf4jxATgD891xKeRVhPg?key=ZVlGZWtoVWNHcnZVajZ6aWtqZXlXbW1paW9GWUNB
Hey Nick, how many cans of each did you finish up using , I sell them i my paint shop there great also you may not know but the same brand do a can that is a 1k can which you can put all single pack products into them but i use them for my customers and put 2 pack polyurethane, and 2K clear or colours but you only have about 12 hours to use up the contents before it goes off great for small touch up jobs on boats etc. also I sent you a email last week just after your advise on the petrel im doing.
Hi Stuart, I've been happy with the 2K stuff. I have some of it on some brightwork on my powerboat and its lasted a couple summers of 24 hour exposure quite well. I'm sorry I didn't get to your email yet. From the sounds of it you are seeing the glass more than you would like. Before sanding off the spot, you might just wet it down with denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) and see what the sanded area looks like when wet. If it looks pretty clear, you should be fine. If you see the glass clearly when wet, then you may want to sand it off and try again.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Nick I'd first like to thank you for your book the Stripped Built Sea Kayak. I built the Guillimot design 18.5 years ago. That kayak still turns heads to this day. I have paddled over a thousand miles in it. I camp out of it fish from it and take lots of short day trips in it. My daughter is now 21 yrs old and she use to ride in the back storage compartment when she was three yrs old. It has several battle scars and indured three severe ones from unforseen events. I took it home and fixed the wounds and finished it off with some fresh varnish. It truley has taken on a character of its own. I get stopped all the time by people to ask about the kayak and people are always surprised that I built it. I am always quick to tell them who designed the boat and were to go online to see more of your master pieces. I am planning on ordering the plans for the 19ft expedition model so I can one day go and partisipate in the Everglades Challenge. I live in Mo but did alot of work in Florida. Thanks again for all your videos and designs. Most of all I would like to thank you for the time you have put into your passion and sharring it with the world.
Bam! Final and near final finishes on beautiful wood makes all the custom effort to build with wood worth it. Polypropylene, aluminum, fiber glass, and Kevlar have their place in the world of canoe and kayak building. But wood has more than a place in this field of discipline. Wood makes its boats living vessels that take us on more than journeys, they take us on quests.
Very nice touch with the clearcoat. Nick you said you use MAS epoxy for wetting out and West for fill coats. Are the work times pretty similar with each product when you use the corresponding hardner? You know whats great about you and the work your doing, you are straight up with no gimmicks," I dont feel comfortable doing this on customers build", but will try it out on my own build. That is showing your professionalism and true to the trade morals. It shows in your work........
You know, I haven't actually timed the cure to compare West vs MAS. I generally leave the shop and let it cure overnight.They are both hard the next morning. Neither one is fast enough to get a full cure in time to do another layup the same day, so the exact cure time is not that relevant. West is a bit faster, but from a practical matter, it doesn't matter.
The guys I learned resin infusion from over a decade ago used to use 2K clear from a can. They’d spray the mold with it in the same manor as gel coat and then infuse. I was surprised poly or vinyl didn’t eat it away. Worked really well.
Interesting idea.
Good day Nick. Thank you very much. :-)
Thanks for sharing, I always learn something new watching your videos!
I’d love to see how to make a seat like this. I couldn’t find a video. Do you have one? Inspiring work! I’m a real fan!
I don't currently have a formal video. I have some photos of the process, both doing it by hand and later with a CNC machine at: goo.gl/photos/EQeriERGs6jdbcxD7
Excellent as usual!!!
An hour and you were done spraying. That's pretty good ! How many cans ? Nice job on the back rests also !Thanks !
4 cans
Nick, Your workmanship and attention to detail is amazing. Two questions. The first is kayak design ... why don't you and other wooden kayak builders use flotation chambers? Is there sufficient reserve buoyancy and ease of dewatering you just don't need them? Second, you have, over the course of the different hulls shown several variables of glasses (carbon, Kevlar/carbon, S glass, etc.) and exterior coatings (automotive clear coat (UV improved protection) and varnishes. If you had to select the best of all options, what would that list look like?
Jim
Hi Jim,
I do often put bulkheads in my kayaks for flotation, but when building for a customer I do what they want. I never put in bulkheads unless I have a hatch in the deck to access the volume. A permanently sealed space without access is asking for problems. If the customer does not want hatches (usually due to aesthetic reasons) I don't add bulkheads.
There are a variety of considerations when choosing a reinforcing fabric: strength, weight, appearance etc. Fiberglass is strong, somewhat heavy and invisible; Carbon Fiber is less strong, heavier (in a hand layup), and black; Kevlar is tougher, heavier (in a hand layup) and yellow. If time and money were no issue, I would probably go with a layup similar to this one. Glass on the outside (S-Glass on the hull) so you could see the wood, and a Carbon/Kevlar for stiffness and toughness on the interior. I would also apply all the layers with using the resin infusion method to reduce the weight and increase the strength of all the layers.
Varnish vs Automotive clear coat is usually a decision of time vs money. Varnish is cheaper out of pocket but takes longer. Spray is probably longer lasting, but cost more even though it takes very little time. I'm actually thinking of using the rattle can stuff on the exterior of this boat, just to see how it goes.
I was wondering if you could add a link to the peelply? You talked about it as "nylon cloth." Would buying simply nylon cloth from a local fabric store be a possible cheaper substitute? I presume once used it cannot be reused?
Here is one source: www.fibreglast.com/product/Nylon_Released_Peel_Ply_582/Vacuum_Bagging_Films_Peel_Ply_Tapes
you could probably use any old nylon from the fabric store, but there are several different kinds made especially for composites work.
Did anyone else know that this kayak build was contracted by Darth Vader????? @21:30 You can tell that Nick gave him a shot at spraying the interior!!!!! Nick is he REALLY like what he appears in the movies????? LoL just joking.... nice work Nick!!!!!!
Since he is already wearing a respirator it was easy to have Darth step in and give it a try.
Do you worry about the automotive clear coat getting on the outside of the kayak? Why choose this versus Varnish? Just for convenience?
I am not worried about the clear coat getting on the outside as it will be sanded more before it is done. I am experimenting with the clear coat because it should be more durable than standard varnish.
Sounds great, thanks for the explanation!
Hi Nick, you can show, as the seat is made in video?
I'm using a seat I had previously carved, I don't have the whole process on video, but I do have some photos of the process available at photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPQq-h4c062FtMwGeAzV3onGFEgGtMYVrfGOALKau0ZIyJf4jxATgD891xKeRVhPg?key=ZVlGZWtoVWNHcnZVajZ6aWtqZXlXbW1paW9GWUNB
Thank you.
Hey Nick, how many cans of each did you finish up using , I sell them i my paint shop there great also you may not know but the same brand do a can that is a 1k can which you can put all single pack products into them but i use them for my customers and put 2 pack polyurethane, and 2K clear or colours but you only have about 12 hours to use up the contents before it goes off great for small touch up jobs on boats etc. also I sent you a email last week just after your advise on the petrel im doing.
Hi Stuart, I've been happy with the 2K stuff. I have some of it on some brightwork on my powerboat and its lasted a couple summers of 24 hour exposure quite well.
I'm sorry I didn't get to your email yet. From the sounds of it you are seeing the glass more than you would like. Before sanding off the spot, you might just wet it down with denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) and see what the sanded area looks like when wet. If it looks pretty clear, you should be fine.
If you see the glass clearly when wet, then you may want to sand it off and try again.
BTW 4 cans
A woodworking artisan making Ikea furniture... I hope you found a way to involve epoxy and fibreglass.
I thought the same! I bet it's the nicest Ikea furniture with some added accent stripes! 😂