Advice and knowledge are two different animals. What someone does with advice is to gain their own knowledge. Heartbreak and trial and error are probably the best teachers around, I know been there. Anyone just starting out can gather all the intel they can possibly get, but they will still have to apply it. I don't want anyone to be discouraged by a mishap and just give up, just make a mental or physical note to be able to adjust and learn and adapt to their personal style. Much respect to all
Great video Doc on a great topic. This is something I really try to stay focused on when spraying my models. We really had to watch it in the body shop on the real cars too or you would get a reaction and not know where or why it happened. Thanks for sharing Doc, I still need to get some Future clear and try it.
Love your videos and what you're doing for the model community bro. I've been building almost 20 years and I've learned alot over the past few by watching your videos. Keep up the great work!
Hello, thanks for sharing your model knowledge with us. Do have any issues with the Model Master Clear turning yellow over time on light color enamels?
+Michael Mcneive, you can still purchase the clear coat you asked about. It's been relabeled and is now called AXALTA TRIM & JAMB CLEAR A-7480s. Same part number as the Dupont label. Same formula as well. Axalta bought out Dupont a few years back and just changed the label on the can. Hope this helps!
Like to know where the best place to / or you put the model car after its done with clear coat to dry/ cure and how long, so dust wont get on it so you can wet sand.
Dr. Cranky, Where are you?? I’ve been seeing more of your videos lately, and I’ve been following you for a few years. I haven’t seen anything recent from you. I hope you’re doing well. I’m looking forward to seeing something more recent. God bless!
Top tip for making a crinkle heavy orange peel effect is to add a heavy paint coat then hold it over a boiling kettle so the steam hits it for a few seconds.
future clear? sounds like a option for me. does it have any uv protection, & can it go on both acrylic & alkyld enamel paint without yellowing discoloring fast? I was going to attempt a clear acylic urethane over enamel, hmm.
Doctor cranky, I think I would like to stick with using acrylic paints. so if I were using plastikote for my primer, using acrylic paints for my base coats, and weathering, what do you suggest would be a good acrylic clear coat to finish the model with? Is there anything that comes in rattle can?
@@DoctorCrankysLabRATory thank you, I've learned a lot from your videos, I'm planning on buying your book this coming week. One more question concerning plastikote, I went on Amazon, and I noticed that they've changed the look of the can, from the style that you show on your videos, sometimes it's called red oxide? Is the type I want to buy simply called red oxide sandable primer?( I don't see it actually called Ruddy brown on the can.) Thank you again.
@@DoctorCrankysLabRATory doctor cranky, I'm sorry for asking a million questions, but I have one more, is there a difference between plastikote# t234 red oxide premium primer , and plastikote "all-purpose" red oxide enamel primer number 2590?? the difference (that i can see) is the price, the premium is $18 a spray can, and the "all purpose" is $8, will they do the same job?? Thank you, I'm trying to learn. I appreciate your time.
Thank you for this video....i was at first under the misconception that you never mix anything laquer with anything enamel. Not only is it a more inexpensive option, With the faster drying time =win win in my book!
Do you ever thin or mix acrylics with future before air-brushing? Or do I spray my acrylics then spray the future? (after priming of course), Thx. Doc.
Hmm I have been to all the standard hardware stores. Where can I find the high grit sanding cloths(up to 12000)? Autozone has some 3000 sandpaper but that is as high as I can find... Any other place Local I can get some?
Doctor cranky, you mentioned that it's good to sand the model primer coat to avoid orange peel, but when I'm going for the look of a junkyard or a dilapidated car, I sort of like the way plastikote gives me that heavy orange peel look on my base coat. Just my two cents. Thanks for all you've taught me man.
Very informative Vid. I was working on a model which I primed with Tamiya Fine Primer, then I sprayed Duplicolor on top of that and that's were the horror began. The Duplicolor paint reacted with the primer and the primer started to crack. So if using Duplicolor, better use Duplicolor primer or Plastic Coat. Peace
Hey doc, The Mac Attack here again. I really appreciate all of the feedback that you have given me. Trying to learn to airbrush and all there is to know about painting has been really hard for me. I know that you live in Florida and I live in Georgia, so we both know about the humidity. When is the humidity too high to even attempt to airbrush?
Doc, I live in Atlanta, GA You live in FL. Where do you get your Dupont A 7480S Clearcoat? I've been looking in all of the wrong places! I'm worn out I don't know where else to look. Thx, The Mac Attack
Have you ever explained why you use enamels over acrylics? As someone who got into model making in the 90s I found enamels were horrible to work with and didn't offer me anything acrylics and some good varnishes couldn't do just as well.
+Samuel Vasquez It's when the paint wrinkles and craters and looks like the peel of an orange. Normally, you can apply a few coats of clear and no problem.
I always clean my model, then do a light primer mist coat for tackiness, then 1-2 good coats of primer for smoothness, then I sand with 600, clean again with 3m cloth and mild detergent and then apply base. I also heat my bases and clears under hot water until I can shake the can and it stays warm. That may not be the safest method but it makes the paint lay down thinner and smoother and it takes way less work to get a good shine after that. It works very well.
I learn something from this guy every time I watch a video. He is by far one of the most informative model builders I have run across.
Advice and knowledge are two different animals. What someone does with advice is to gain their own knowledge. Heartbreak and trial and error are probably the best teachers around, I know been there. Anyone just starting out can gather all the intel they can possibly get, but they will still have to apply it. I don't want anyone to be discouraged by a mishap and just give up, just make a mental or physical note to be able to adjust and learn and adapt to their personal style. Much respect to all
Great video Doc on a great topic. This is something I really try to stay focused on when spraying my models. We really had to watch it in the body shop on the real cars too or you would get a reaction and not know where or why it happened. Thanks for sharing Doc, I still need to get some Future clear and try it.
Great video Doc and being an old autobody tech agree with you %100, thanks for sharing and keep doing your Thang!
Big Boss Jim
Love your videos and what you're doing for the model community bro. I've been building almost 20 years and I've learned alot over the past few by watching your videos. Keep up the great work!
Great video Doc. Awesome explanation
Do you cut the Model Master Clear 1 to 1 with lacquer thinner?
Hello, thanks for sharing your model knowledge with us. Do have any issues with the Model Master Clear turning yellow over time on light color enamels?
What do u think of food dehydrators for drying?
+Michael Mcneive, you can still purchase the clear coat you asked about. It's been relabeled and is now called AXALTA TRIM & JAMB CLEAR A-7480s. Same part number as the Dupont label. Same formula as well. Axalta bought out Dupont a few years back and just changed the label on the can. Hope this helps!
Like to know where the best place to / or you put the model car after its done with clear coat to dry/ cure and how long, so dust wont get on it so you can wet sand.
Awesome tips! Thanks for sharing
awesome vid, Doc.
i like watching your tips and tricks bin building for 30+years
Do you decant and airbrush your primer?
Dr. Cranky, Where are you?? I’ve been seeing more of your videos lately, and I’ve been following you for a few years. I haven’t seen anything recent from you. I hope you’re doing well. I’m looking forward to seeing something more recent. God bless!
How long do you wait between layers of primer and paint? do you wet sand between layers?
Sorry to rant Doc. Love your advice and videos.
Top tip for making a crinkle heavy orange peel effect is to add a heavy paint coat then hold it over a boiling kettle so the steam hits it for a few seconds.
future clear? sounds like a option for me. does it have any uv protection, & can it go on both acrylic & alkyld enamel paint without yellowing discoloring fast? I was going to attempt a clear acylic urethane over enamel, hmm.
Doctor cranky, I think I would like to stick with using acrylic paints. so if I were using plastikote for my primer, using acrylic paints for my base coats, and weathering, what do you suggest would be a good acrylic clear coat to finish the model with? Is there anything that comes in rattle can?
I would test Tamiya's clear coat on plastic spoons with the acrylic paints you are using.
@@DoctorCrankysLabRATory thank you, I've learned a lot from your videos, I'm planning on buying your book this coming week. One more question concerning plastikote, I went on Amazon, and I noticed that they've changed the look of the can, from the style that you show on your videos, sometimes it's called red oxide? Is the type I want to buy simply called red oxide sandable primer?( I don't see it actually called Ruddy brown on the can.) Thank you again.
Yes, that's a good one, but I also like the black and grey.
@@DoctorCrankysLabRATory doctor cranky, I'm sorry for asking a million questions, but I have one more, is there a difference between plastikote# t234 red oxide premium primer , and plastikote "all-purpose" red oxide enamel primer number 2590?? the difference (that i can see) is the price, the premium is $18 a spray can, and the "all purpose" is $8, will they do the same job?? Thank you, I'm trying to learn. I appreciate your time.
how do you feel with Tamiya paint as far as gassing out
Also - details on 4000-12000 grit sanding cloths please?
Brand and "store" is what I'm looking for. Thx Doc!
Thanks for that Doc great video. I am still very much a noob at all these paint layers lol
Thank you for this video....i was at first under the misconception that you never mix anything laquer with anything enamel. Not only is it a more inexpensive option, With the faster drying time =win win in my book!
Do you ever thin or mix acrylics with future before air-brushing? Or do I spray my acrylics then spray the future? (after priming of course), Thx. Doc.
+Cynthia White No, I use acrylic airbrush flow medium.
Hmm I have been to all the standard hardware stores. Where can I find the high grit sanding cloths(up to 12000)? Autozone has some 3000 sandpaper but that is as high as I can find... Any other place Local I can get some?
copacetic = agreeable or compatibleThank you Doc. for pointing those simple rules... Thanks for sharing the knowledge !
Very knowledgeable you have a new subscriber here 👍
Great video
Doctor cranky, you mentioned that it's good to sand the model primer coat to avoid orange peel, but when I'm going for the look of a junkyard or a dilapidated car, I sort of like the way plastikote gives me that heavy orange peel look on my base coat. Just my two cents. Thanks for all you've taught me man.
Very informative Vid. I was working on a model which I primed with Tamiya Fine Primer, then I sprayed Duplicolor on top of that and that's were the horror began. The Duplicolor paint reacted with the primer and the primer started to crack. So if using Duplicolor, better use Duplicolor primer or Plastic Coat.
Peace
thanks for this video Doc, good discussions and info share here. :)
If I am fixing a blemish in my base coat, what grade sandpaper should I use?
I use 400, 600, 800, 1200
Thank you for sharing so much..........
where do you get plasticote??????
GetSmart008 On line, try doing a Google search. I used to get it from MIDWAY PAINT SUPPLIES in Texas.
Hey doc, The Mac Attack here again. I really appreciate all of the feedback that you have given me. Trying to learn to airbrush and all there is to know about painting has been really hard for me. I know that you live in Florida and I live in Georgia, so we both know about the humidity. When is the humidity too high to even attempt to airbrush?
When it is above 80
I can't get my clear coat to work right it keeps bubbling up as soon as I spray it and the paint and clear is the same brand
Rustoleum makes enamel spray paints, but their clearcoats are lacquer.
Doc, I live in Atlanta, GA You live in FL. Where do you get your Dupont A 7480S Clearcoat? I've been looking in all of the wrong places! I'm worn out I don't know where else to look. Thx, The Mac Attack
Maybe it finally got discontinued.
Have you ever explained why you use enamels over acrylics? As someone who got into model making in the 90s I found enamels were horrible to work with and didn't offer me anything acrylics and some good varnishes couldn't do just as well.
What is orange peel?
+Samuel Vasquez It's when the paint wrinkles and craters and looks like the peel of an orange. Normally, you can apply a few coats of clear and no problem.
Thanks
3 days is still a bloody long time for pant to dry, especially for those of us without a dedicated work space.
AstrayPenguin I use a Dehydrator & spend 45-60 mins to dry (if I'm in a hurry) but I've never had a problem with doing that....😡
thank you for the vid
I always clean my model, then do a light primer mist coat for tackiness, then 1-2 good coats of primer for smoothness, then I sand with 600, clean again with 3m cloth and mild detergent and then apply base. I also heat my bases and clears under hot water until I can shake the can and it stays warm. That may not be the safest method but it makes the paint lay down thinner and smoother and it takes way less work to get a good shine after that. It works very well.
i quit using future clear, 'cause my last couple mods i used it on, the paint cracked,, very wierd ans ugly,,..
Plastikote? Egads man why not just chalky Acrylic or finger paint? Yikes