Audi 8E: A4 B6 1.8T Timing belt removal
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- Thomas
P.O. Box 83041
4827 Kingsway
Burnaby, BC
V5H 0A4
Canada
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The 1.8's look like a lot less work than the 2.8's. My mate was awesome enough to help me out doing a complete timing set including all of the seals a few months ago in my A6 Quattro with a 2.8. He had all of the extra tools that I did not have like the camshaft alignment tool and a few other things which saved me some money. He had me do all of the work and walked me through it step by step which taught me A LOT.
I found out that using permatex ultra grey high torque sealant around the outside of the cam plug seals on the back of the cylinder heads are a good insurance policy to prevent them from leaking or blowing out in the future. I said to my mate, well that would explain as to why when I installed new plug seals a week ago, the passenger side blew out and oil went everywhere. I just changed my oil too.
Everything took me around 8 hours to do it with his help. He probably could have done it in far less time than it took me with his experience if he did it himself. But then I wouldn't have learned anything and wouldn't have had fun doing it. Besides, it is always fun to hang out with your mates and have a few pints of logger while working on something.
After we were done, he told me how much some shops would have charged me in parts and labor if I had taken it somewhere to get it done. I about choked on my logger haha. To me, my 6.6 Duramax diesel engine in my truck is easier to work on than my Audi. At least I can change the exhaust manifold gaskets on my Duramax without the need to partially remove the engine.
Having knowledgeable friends that can help is a plus... too many people tackle jobs like that without the correct tools or even service information. There's lots that I will not touch when I don't have the tools for the job.
Been there ... done that on my son's 2002 A4, my 2001 Passat, my 1996 A4, and my other son's 2000 S4. Nice video!
With the two manual transmission cars we just pulled the entire lock carrier off.
Whatever is easiest... in some cases, I too remove the whole unit.
Good work Thomas ! Glad the screaming red head back it makes me feel at home 😉
She had a busy day with this repair!
I have a buddy who retired as an engineer for Snap On Tools. After I advised him to change his timing belt, he reported back, "How the hell do you get in there to do that?" It was fun explaining the lock carrier system to someone who knows far more about tools, and probably somewhat more about cars, than I do. :) He made up a couple of threaded carrier hanging rods for me, as well. We got pretty good use out of them with four B5/B6 cars in the family. :)
Some guys are able to do it without moving the lock carrier... I prefer to have room to work in! =)
Thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS Holy *!*#^&, Batman! That would be impressive. :)
what a great video. Very rare youtube video with that simple explanation but spot on and easy to understand. thank you.
Thank you, kind of you to say. Thank you for watching!
Nice work there mate.....was getting ready to do the same on my A4 2.0T before I sold it :) i remember having to put a V6 - B5 Passat into service position to replace the alternator because of the upper bolt, without service position it would have backed into the rad....lol...lot's of work for a single bolt !!! but you gotta love the German stuff : )
into
The bigger the engine... the tighter the package. =(
Nicely done 👍 the 1/4 in air ratchet is much better than my M12 Milwaukee cucumber cordless ratchet.
This one is 3/8" drive... I have a 1/4" that sounds similar.
Would be nice to compare electric with air.
@@EXOVCDS I have both and the Milwaukee is a turd of turds but on youtube their the best. Idontjustreviewtools Iusethem ☺
Not to worry... I hear Dewalt will be releasing a 1/4" soon! =)
@@EXOVCDS How do you like your Rigid gun?
Love them... I have three. 6 years old at least!
Finally the start to finish with no bouncing around in fast forward..just get the ko. Do e no more guessing..cool I might be able to drive my car again soon...thanx..
Thank you for watching... type slower, makes things easier to read / understand.
Getting everything out of the way is most of the work.
Yes... the actual belt & pump job is quite simple then.
Great tear down for the timing belt job and very good editing! 😀👍
Still seemed a bit long for me. =(
Marking the Accessory belt direction! Good idea!
Yes, can help keep limit noise when reused.
Thank you so much for this video it will be a huge help with my upcoming project. I always thought you where somewhere in the US but in reality you are across the pond in Vancouver! You have been great help over the years with all of the videos to the point that before I do a job I would see if you had done one on the job first
Nice to hear... thank you and thank you for watching!
@@EXOVCDS if you need help with the camera and your glasses I have a fair amount of resources at my disposal
@@madelineblanchard9497 Thank, I'll keep you in mind. I'm waiting to hear back from a couple of places.
Woah that's a lot of work! Great job! Sometimes I wish that installation was just a click of my fingers as I'm usually tired and cold by that stage 😂
...... and who the f**k would give you a thumbs down?!! 😠
Those who know better... but alas, we will never learn how to do it better, because they do not bother
to show us how it is done correctly. =(
@@TheCowgirlNiamh Someone living in their Mommy's basement and the Mommy's Audi has a broken timing belt.
Nice video Thomas thanks. I know refitting the tensioner's gap can be awkward would love to have seen how you set it up.
I use a 6mm allen to set the gap and then tighten the tensioner into place. 6mm to 10mm is spec.
about to tackle the timing belt on my 02 b6 a4, bought a complete timing kit and m8 bolts to put the front end in service position. any specific tools you recommend for the service or any tips that will help me along the way? thanks.
What you see is what you see / get. I'm too busy (replying to youtube comments, emails, Tech support messages etc.) to go into detail for you . The service manual is all you need for instructions. I'm happy to answer / reply to questions once you get stuck (should that happen).
A few things; on the Convertible, there aren't three bolts per side holding there front bumper on, just one. On some you cannot get to the two bigger bumper bolts going upwards, so remove the bumper skin first and then unbolt/remove the alloy bumper crash bar. Also, the original gas strut type tensioner as seen here has been superseded by a purely mechanical type due to failures of the original. INA make such a kit.
Good info... thanks for sharing!
Wow, I thought the belt on the 1.8 beetle was a challenge. Compared to this it was cake. Great video
I prefer this over the Beetle... more room (after making room)! =)
Hey man great videos I love the thorough job u do and especially how you handle it as you explain it ..really great.i had commented on a previous video and you actually responded back even cooler..I got my card timing back down but here we go again now I'm blowing my #29 fuse engine management fuse before it would happen occasionally when I would turn the ignition now it's happening when i put a fuse in the socket...what do u think it could be?
Fuse #29 feeds the ignition coils... check for broken wires / insulation (that is allowing wires to touch each other or ground out against the metal valve cover) at each coil connector.
So much room! Spoiled on this one Thomas.
Not a Mazda... that's for sure! LOL
Hi Thomas, just did a transmission fluid change on my golf 5 1.9 tdi. Only 1 litre came out? Bewildering to me because I read up that there's meant to be 2.3 litres in there!
Ah well I topped it up with fresh fluid which had the approval number correspondence and added a little of Lucas transmission stop leak in there too.
Sorry I know this isn't about the video shown...
Took for a test drive and all is well!
While I had the car up on axle stands (total pain!) I added a sub frame spacer kit, because of creaking sounds on parking/ dry steering on uneven surfaces.
Seems to have taken most of the noises away, but not all.
Thanks for the great video's!
5 speed standard? There are 2 places that need to be drained. Filling is done through the reverse light switch mounting hole.
@@EXOVCDS yes it's a 5 speed transmission. Oh right, I didn't know there are two filling/draining points to get to?
P.S.
it's a manual transmission?
I supply service info / pdf's via tech support when needed.
fkh161.ca/
Very nice and clear video, enjoyed watching it. wish you would do a video on removing the oil pan on the B6 1.8t , that would be awesome! If anything like this video it would help so many.. any way enjoy your how to's...
Thank you.... I can only record what I get my hands on / the work my boss gives me. Maybe this year... maybe next year.
Cool, maybe in the future., unfortunately I have to do this in the very near future because of engine sludge, already taken head off and taken to machine shop to clean, new valve stems and new oil chain tensioner, hopefully be picking it up today.@@EXOVCDS
Great Work and great video one of your best.
Thank you!
Hi,sir thomas,sorry to bother you again,i just wanna ask,im on top dead center and all the marks is perfect,but i noticed my...3rd cylinder vave is slightly open,does it normal?many thanks
TDC is only for #1 cylinder... at TDC, #1 intake & exhaust valves are closed. Other cylinders might have some exhaust or intake valves that are open... because those cylinders are not at TDC. You only have to worry about #1 being at TDC. =)
Thanks a lot sir Thomas,im happy,really appreciated your reply
Question, can i use a b6 s4 fuel pump in a b6 1.8t?
Or should i just get the 1.8t fuel pump
Recently went to the junk yard and pulled a pump off a b6 s4
Not sure... pumps could be the same. I'd have to check a parts catalog.
Did I see you using a chrome socket on the lug nuts? You're the reason they have safety meetings! I'm always amazed at how easy those bumper inserts come out, a guy could make a fortune stealing them and selling them to disreputable body shops lol
I can't tell you how many break caliper holdy thingies I've lost. I buy plant hangers from the garden center, they're cheap and perfect.
That's a of work for the timing belt! way too much work for me. I'll leave the tough stuff for you!
It's an impact socket... looks shiny because of the aluminum that has come off of the wheels! ROFLMAO
5:11 T45... NOT the air temp sensor!!! 17:17 should be 10mm water pump bolts!!! Damn, I'm getting bad at editing!!! =(
LOL you are goofy oops yuck!!!
what grit of Emory cloth did you use or arent their different levels of grit?
80 to 120... nothing less (smaller number) than 80 (will be too rough then). Steel wool or scotch brite pads also work. Use on a non pump surface first to gauge the effectiveness. If it leaves scratches, it's too course.
Hey Thomas, have an issue with my 1.8t b5. Just changed the timing belt. Gates belt+tensioners and a Febi Bilstein water pump. I believe I have followed all instructions. Started it up no problem 30 mins later chirping sound, further 10 mins later sporadic grinding metal on metal sound.
I've had a look down all pulleys and had the top cover off whilst running and nothing looks to have mad play.
Current diagnosis is bad gates tensioners? It really sounds like bad bearings. Any advice appreciated!
Post a video so that I can hear & see what is happening.
@@EXOVCDS ruclips.net/user/shorts2Moyy7HJKy8?feature=share
Here's one I took can't decide if it's louder from top or bottom. Phone seems to pick up noise best from where I filmed.
@@Winningpk3 thanks... yeah that's weird. Run it with the belts off. If it still does it, dive back in deeper.
@@EXOVCDS thanks i will try i should have an engine stethoscope coming today as well may help to pinpoint the noise.
@@EXOVCDS with the stethoscope it appears the noise sounds like it is coming from lower timing cover/ harmonic balancer area
WHAT'S THE LABOR ON SOMETHING LIKE THIS , GREAT VIDEO AND THANKS SO MUCH !
I think around 5 hrs including water pump... seals add more time.
@@EXOVCDS THANK YOU .
So another question is if my cam and crankshaft aren't lined up as far as mytiming notches are concerned and say one is on but the other isn't then how to in adjust them by removing the timing belt and turning the camshaft with the tensioner compressed or do I just go one tooth over on my camshaft puller and hope I'm going the right way?
Year, make, model, engine?
It's a 2003 a4 1.8l audi ok so I just went ahead and went a tooth in one direction and now it sounds more like it wants to start...I'll post with a video in the am.thanx for replying...
@@tommymac9319 You have to be careful with 1.8T engines... they like to bend valves when cam / crank timing is out too far. To move either the cam or the crank, the belt has to be loose... setting the crank to TDC and then moving the cam is probably easier. Yes, the tensioner has to be collapsed so that you can get slack in the timing belt.
Wait I thought that if I had to adjust the cams I couldn't be at tdc with any cylinder..ummm in any case I got it to run but I think I might be a tooth off but that could also be my exhaust I think my cat is clogged or getting clogged..but I'm still stoked after two months of pushing my car/living in it in the mealtime to have it finally running/albeit rough as it may be,for now...tha k u for replying super awesom..
@@tommymac9319 If the engine still runs rough after the cam & crank are aligned correctly... you will need to remove the valve cover to check if the intake camshaft is at the correct position when the engine is at TDC. There should be 16 links between the exhaust cam & the intake cam (the notches in the camshafts should be close to the arrows on the cam bearing caps). If everything is aligned as it should be, but the engine still runs rough.. check the compression of each cylinder.
So what if you changed your head gasket well I changed .my headgasket on my 2003 audi a4 1. And I think I bought it with a blown head gasket already but anyway I replaced my.head gasket and I think it's all for the most part almost ready
But one thing its doing when I start it up or attempt to anyway is that it sounds like almost how it was before I took apart my head to get to the head gasket.changed my head gasket is that it almost turns completely over but its like it's only getting just a partial shot of fuel..like it tries it tries and it starts shaking and almost catching but doesn't is that because my camshafts aren't quite aligned with my Mark's on the crankshaft.i think I just answered my own question..because I had felt like I might be a tooth or too over...so my question is would one or two teeth over on my camshafts mark be a indicator that I've almost got it right or that I'm on the compression stroke of my top dead center?
That's why it won't completely start..that's what I would like to get informed or even a opinion
@@tommymac9319 post a video on your channel so that I can see & hear. Any fault codes?
Awesome,you move fast! 🤙
It's the editing! LOL
The flat rate way
👍👍👍Must be a interference engine or preventive maintenance job. Or Both. 😉. Nice job Thomas. Been talking to the Mech a Nic. Buddy you recommend. He lives by me. Gonna go visit him.
Yes, interference fit.
Jonathan is a cool dude! Say hi to him for me!
Hi Thomas 03 jetta 2.0 engine is shaking a bit a idle but when I press the gas it smooths out. No check engine light. Would an air leak and or exhaust leak cause this?
Check for a broken vacuum hose at the fuel pressure regulator on the left hand side of the intake manifold (remove the plastic engine cover to see the hose). If it is broken, replace it. If that's ok, could be an ignition issue, fouled spark plugs or a dirty injector. Not sure... would have to see some scan data from engine sensors / the ECM. An exhaust leak wouldn't cause idle roughness and you would hear an exhaust leak. Vacuum leaks can cause roughness and will eventually set fault codes. Same with ignition components... eventually misfires will set. Worn engine mounts can cause shaking of the engine, a dirty throttle body can cause low idle rpm. Many things to check / eliminate.
@@EXOVCDS do you know what yhe plastic hose directly underneath the manifold is called? I think it comes from the pcv valve to the evap system I think.
This one?
www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/purge-valve-hard-line/06a133366ac/
Thank you for this video
Thank you for watching.
My car is 1.8t 225 ...2002 audi tt,many thanks
Would this be the same procedure for a 2001 passat with aug engine?
Yes, should be similar.
@@EXOVCDS thank you very much
I found an old video of mine for a Passat:
ruclips.net/video/9-pif1SLX-Y/видео.html
@@EXOVCDS thank you again lol your videos help tremendously
What brand of gloves are those?
Gloveworks:
instagram.com/p/BqGrFFGHHAw/
Any good recommendations for some new b6 lower control arms?
We deal with local suppliers... there are a number of Euro Online Stores that should stock "known good" components.
Nice work👍
Thank you.
Does this 8E engine have 20valves??
Yes.
@@EXOVCDS thank's for your answer. Great Videos, keep up the good work 👍🙂
3rd 💪
Hi Dan.
So much more room for a timing belt change 😂
Beats a chain job! =)
👍
Omg. DO NOT replace the crank seal if it's not leaking. I did, and then it leaked. Had to totally redo the timing belt job. Ugh...
I owned a 1984 318i BMW... I changed the crank seal 3 time and it always leaked. I then installed a "speedy sleeve" that fixed it... but boy what a pain it was 3 times.
A thin metal sleeve installed over a crankshaft surface that has a seal groove etched into it. The sleeve covers the groove, so that the new seal has a smooth surface to ride against. =)
www.skf.com/ca/en/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html
@@crescentandstarglory You have to disconnect them. Pinch the hoses before removal to minimize fluid loss.
You will lose some fluid, but if you pinch the lines (hoses) first, it will be minimal... you won't have to top-up the fluid level. If the transmission has signs of fluid loss / is oily, then you will want to check & top up fluid level regardless. If the transmission is spotless... a bit of fluid loss should not cause any damage.
1st BOOM
Check the chat message... Boom, I was first!
@@EXOVCDS You very funny Dr Jones.
Now was that a sonic boom?
That emgi.e is so much cleaner then mine im.embarrassed..
Thank you for watching... type slower, makes things easier to read / understand.
Rigid aye?
Pretty soon they will all be electric and you won't have to dismantle half the body to work on the engine.
I doubt that I'll ever get Electric Vehicle Certification... will be interesting to see though, what happens when all the electrical issues surface as those vehicles get older. They better have some / offer some good trade-in packages!
My son's Camry had a leaky oil pump housing (broken o ring) Since I was in there I replaced the seal on the oil pump and then replaced the belt, water pump, adjuster, and idler pulley. Total parts was under a hundred bucks. I don't want to have to go back in there again so I did everything but the cam seals, they looked good and they were dry.
Good job Pal. Better you than me. Happy Motoring.
It's always better to replace as much as you can while you are "in there"... but sometimes it can open up a whole new can of worms! =(
Very smooth. I know u purposely won’t get a 12 volt Milwaukee ratchet just to bug me. That air unit is just so not cool. Jk. Also, u left the pan underneath where u r working to catch tools and bolts/nuts that u won’t discover till u have found replacements and later drain the bucket. Even Diagnose Dan uses the 12 volt ratchet.
I'm saving up for one... just for you! =)
That's not VAG coolant in the engine! should be pink!!
whoops, spoke too soon! I thought you might have drained the rad before teardown...I guess I saw the washer fluid :o(
I use cheap coolant on my a4 i have 225000 miles
Take the nose off next time i can do that job in 1 hr lol
Great post a video.
#Sorted :D
#sorted!!