About point 2, you can use a trigger word to feel calm under water after a whipeout. The same way you use "1,2,3, Go" to commit when paddling. When I fall on heavy water, I instantly tell my self "I'm seaweed", and that helps me relax my body and let the ocean drag me without exerting any resistance.
Couldn't agree more about getting the wipeout over with at the beginning of the session. It's so easy to sit on the outside and psyche yourself out or just timidly paddle in way off on the shoulder. Obviously not advocating throwing yourself of the ledge of some high consequence slab, but perfect for those slightly bigger days that give you a bit of anxiety.
Number 2 is the most important in my experience. I get a lot more confidence in situations I would otherwise panic in. The third tip sounds great, thanks Kale!
GREAT TIPS !! The first tip is something I never thought about .. When I started a session with fear of big waves , I did think about "OK, worse case I will fall off" but doing it in purpose , like really paddling to fall takes one through the entire sections of the wave before its breaking on you.. love it ..
Thanks for the tips. I used the 3-2-1 method yesterday and caught so many more waves than in my previous two sessions. It really made all the difference! Can't wait for my next session!
@@KalesBroccoli I am absolutely loving the friendly, well founded advice. I think you have the whole thing nailed: having fun but showing others how to have fun too. Taking the journey and sharing what you learn along the way. You're doing it right. If I may add a sober piece of advice, with success often comes temptation, which leads to screwing up, and a hint of pride, which leads to being less than kind. Keep your humility, morality and kindness front and foremost at the start and end of your day to protect what you have here, and your students. This from an old man, hope it guides and doesn't hinder you.
Hey Kale, what about confidence in managing tense social dynamics of crowded lineups? Holding your ground when paddling shoulder to shoulder with 4 guys on an a frame, not knowing who’s taking off which direction is a case here. I’m actually a cocky bastard so I don’t struggle with this per se but I’m sure some people do
Some good advice. The problem for me is I over analyze everything so when I try things like the 3, 2, 1, strategy I deep down consciously know I'm bullshiting myself and won't go. haha. I go through ups and downs with it. I recently came out of a stage of too much passiveness from previously being pretty good at dropping in on tougher waves. What got me out of that little funk was honestly just the frustration of seeing other people getting good rides and saying to myself, what the hell is wrong with me. I was then like "screw this" and threw myself into the next wave that looked good. Using similar ideas to the first two points.
I once nearly drowned bodysurfing 8 foot waves without any aids. I went over the falls and got drilled badly, and in my inexperience and fear I started swimming toward the surface as soon as I was under control. My only trouble was that there was a mysterious current that was pulling me down all the time... I was running out of air and got desperate and swam with all my last might towards the light, when my hands hit the sand above my head. What had happened was that I had gotten completely disoriented and was swimming down, against the upward drift of my buoyant body. From that day I decided to save my strength until I started floating up, so that I knew for certain which direction to swim in. And as Kale says, it worked helluva well. I'd just roll with the wave, my friend, over under sideways upside down it didn't matter, knowing I would have plenty of air because I was not using a single muscle. And when it passed, I'd simply swim, sometimes even just float, up to the surface again.
I think principle 1 is great advice for me at the moment. I recognise I have lost some of my 'edge' - overthinking things etc. I am catching less waves. Need to tackle it head on
Kale always enjoy your clips. First surf in Hawaii surfing big Sunset my mate wouldn't let me paddle out in the channel. Paddled from around the back getting smashed heavily by 15ft sets. Made the rest of the time in Hawaii pretty easy!
Another similar thing I do is mimic what Kelly and the momentum guys would say to each other and say “you won’t go” when a big wave comes. Just makes you send it
The problem for me with that and the 3, 2, 1, strategy is that I rapidly overthink those kinds of things and know that I'm either bullshitting myself or don't care what other people think of what I do, so it ends up not working. In the end I just have to use my own will power to make myself do it.
A good way to wipe out instantly is to drink a whiskey before you go out. This I tried at 18 as an experiment to see what surfing mildly drunk was like. Turns out you can't.
This time of year, I'm dealing with a closey shorebreak a lot. So this is pertinent Too far off the sandbar, and no catchy, too much over it and wipeout!
Bruh, idk, I already have enough kooks sneaking out to the peak because of summer lulls and then when sets roll they don’t have the skills and the people that do are getting hurt by their bails and boards flying. Kooks at my break are the number one reason people here get sent to hospital. The internet told them to come surf here cause lessons happen on the inside, but magically they end up outside taking slab sets that stand vertical on the reef on the head and send their lame ass longboard like spears at everyone else. It’s great people progress, but half these people don’t know that they’re in over their heads, have no athletic abilities, and are engaging in one of the most difficult sports there is cause it’s currently cool. I say, come committed, get a proper board, demonstrate some degree of etiquette competence and mastery over your board on inside waves out of the way (like not on the shoulder), and then slip out when everyone knows you and knows you’re ready. The everyone knowing you is key, cause if everyone doesn’t know you at a spot, it means you don’t know the spot either!
Do you think having the right surfboard when taking off on steep, intimidating waves makes a difference? Or is it more you can take off on any board just don’t look straight down but look down the line?
Got any suggestions for trying to figure out which way is up when just going with the wipeout? I’ve tried relaxing in wipeouts before and then found myself swimming to the bottom instead of the top . I’ve tried climbing my leg rope but when it’s pulling horizontally in white water it doesn’t give much indication to which way is up.
I got SMASHED one time on my twin fin fish, a bit shallow, steep & dumpy. I forever since have had a phobia of shallow waves (in the realistic sense, let’s not be silly about it) all the banks in my home town have shifted & has turned to cake. So this is actually a good vid. Go out, take a smash. It’ll buff right out 😂
@@KalesBroccoli funny I actually was recommended that video by RUclips after I commented this, checked it out. Looks like a super sick board. I’m riding a 5’4 soft Hypto Krypto and a 7’0 Ova by Skindog… trying to put something in between my groveler and my middy
there's an episode of it's always sunny in philadelphia when frank sing-tells himself "go for it go for it" as he's preparing to indulge in a certain powdery white substance at his bar at 8 in the morning on a weekday. i also tell myself this as i turn around for a wave that scares me. the ridiculous image of frank and his voice in my head makes me laugh at myself a little and in turn makes the wave a bit less serious.
About point 2, you can use a trigger word to feel calm under water after a whipeout. The same way you use "1,2,3, Go" to commit when paddling.
When I fall on heavy water, I instantly tell my self "I'm seaweed", and that helps me relax my body and let the ocean drag me without exerting any resistance.
thats gold haha
Love that!
Couldn't agree more about getting the wipeout over with at the beginning of the session. It's so easy to sit on the outside and psyche yourself out or just timidly paddle in way off on the shoulder. Obviously not advocating throwing yourself of the ledge of some high consequence slab, but perfect for those slightly bigger days that give you a bit of anxiety.
🙏🏽👏🏽
I’m gonna use this
This is exactly how I feel.
Tip 1: bring a chick to watch you
Word
Or your non surfer boyfriend
Loool this
Loool this
My brother knows
Number 2 is the most important in my experience. I get a lot more confidence in situations I would otherwise panic in. The third tip sounds great, thanks Kale!
GREAT TIPS !!
The first tip is something I never thought about ..
When I started a session with fear of big waves , I did think about "OK, worse case I will fall off" but doing it in purpose , like really paddling to fall takes one through the entire sections of the wave before its breaking on you.. love it ..
Thanks for the tips. I used the 3-2-1 method yesterday and caught so many more waves than in my previous two sessions. It really made all the difference! Can't wait for my next session!
Love that :)
It’s remarkable how you evolved from tips and hacks for surfing better to a thinker about surfing behaviour.
Love your videos man. Always good, positive, helping content. This is what the (surfing)world needs.
I appreciate that!
@@KalesBroccoli I am absolutely loving the friendly, well founded advice. I think you have the whole thing nailed: having fun but showing others how to have fun too. Taking the journey and sharing what you learn along the way. You're doing it right. If I may add a sober piece of advice, with success often comes temptation, which leads to screwing up, and a hint of pride, which leads to being less than kind. Keep your humility, morality and kindness front and foremost at the start and end of your day to protect what you have here, and your students. This from an old man, hope it guides and doesn't hinder you.
It helps if you're surfing open door aframe uncrowded beachbreak barrels too
It's always the paddle out in heavier stuff that gets my blood going and informs my mindset
I sometimes go for the wipeout if the session is getting sticky and I need to move things on. Just remember to do it (relatively) safely!😂
Hey Kale, what about confidence in managing tense social dynamics of crowded lineups? Holding your ground when paddling shoulder to shoulder with 4 guys on an a frame, not knowing who’s taking off which direction is a case here. I’m actually a cocky bastard so I don’t struggle with this per se but I’m sure some people do
I try to avoid crowds but the best strategy for this is identifying etiquette and line up positions, wave choice and a certain degree of capability.
Some good advice. The problem for me is I over analyze everything so when I try things like the 3, 2, 1, strategy I deep down consciously know I'm bullshiting myself and won't go. haha.
I go through ups and downs with it. I recently came out of a stage of too much passiveness from previously being pretty good at dropping in on tougher waves. What got me out of that little funk was honestly just the frustration of seeing other people getting good rides and saying to myself, what the hell is wrong with me. I was then like "screw this" and threw myself into the next wave that looked good. Using similar ideas to the first two points.
It’s not always a nice linear path to growth :) be patient
I once nearly drowned bodysurfing 8 foot waves without any aids. I went over the falls and got drilled badly, and in my inexperience and fear I started swimming toward the surface as soon as I was under control. My only trouble was that there was a mysterious current that was pulling me down all the time... I was running out of air and got desperate and swam with all my last might towards the light, when my hands hit the sand above my head. What had happened was that I had gotten completely disoriented and was swimming down, against the upward drift of my buoyant body.
From that day I decided to save my strength until I started floating up, so that I knew for certain which direction to swim in. And as Kale says, it worked helluva well. I'd just roll with the wave, my friend, over under sideways upside down it didn't matter, knowing I would have plenty of air because I was not using a single muscle. And when it passed, I'd simply swim, sometimes even just float, up to the surface again.
Chief, you ok if I mix 'em up a bit? 3-2-1- wipe out! 😂
😂😂😂👏🏽
I think principle 1 is great advice for me at the moment. I recognise I have lost some of my 'edge' - overthinking things etc. I am catching less waves. Need to tackle it head on
Kale always enjoy your clips. First surf in Hawaii surfing big Sunset my mate wouldn't let me paddle out in the channel. Paddled from around the back getting smashed heavily by 15ft sets. Made the rest of the time in Hawaii pretty easy!
👏🏽 glad you’re okay!
Another similar thing I do is mimic what Kelly and the momentum guys would say to each other and say “you won’t go” when a big wave comes. Just makes you send it
The problem for me with that and the 3, 2, 1, strategy is that I rapidly overthink those kinds of things and know that I'm either bullshitting myself or don't care what other people think of what I do, so it ends up not working. In the end I just have to use my own will power to make myself do it.
👏🏽
Perfect timing thank you so so much!!!! ❤ Can't wait to get out there and try the 3-2-1 method makes so much sense!
Perfect!
Great reminders, I love the 3 2 1 strategy.
I’m from Nicaragua 😊 enjoy it
Greetings from Morocco 👌 love watching your videos mate. They are very helpful
Glad you like them!
Nicaragua looks good on you Kale :)
I enjoyed this. Thanks for sharing
Another great video. Thanks for the information.
Any time!
thanks so much kale
A good way to wipe out instantly is to drink a whiskey before you go out. This I tried at 18 as an experiment to see what surfing mildly drunk was like. Turns out you can't.
When I want catch more waves I go wingfoiling, no crowd, no stress🎉
What fins are you riding in the JS Schooner?
This time of year, I'm dealing with a closey shorebreak a lot. So this is pertinent Too far off the sandbar, and no catchy, too much over it and wipeout!
Wow Nica looks great. What board would you recommend for Nica?
Check out my quiver update video!
Another great video by Kale! But for most of it my thoughts were elsewhere: holy smokes, that woman is so beautiful.
Thanks!! I’ll pass it along haha
An this is what makes you awesome Brother. Humble and relaxed as hindu cow
😂😂😂 🐄
I get a bit freaked out because my pop up is sometimes a bit weak which make it a bit sketchy on the bigger hollow days.
Bruh, idk, I already have enough kooks sneaking out to the peak because of summer lulls and then when sets roll they don’t have the skills and the people that do are getting hurt by their bails and boards flying. Kooks at my break are the number one reason people here get sent to hospital. The internet told them to come surf here cause lessons happen on the inside, but magically they end up outside taking slab sets that stand vertical on the reef on the head and send their lame ass longboard like spears at everyone else. It’s great people progress, but half these people don’t know that they’re in over their heads, have no athletic abilities, and are engaging in one of the most difficult sports there is cause it’s currently cool. I say, come committed, get a proper board, demonstrate some degree of etiquette competence and mastery over your board on inside waves out of the way (like not on the shoulder), and then slip out when everyone knows you and knows you’re ready. The everyone knowing you is key, cause if everyone doesn’t know you at a spot, it means you don’t know the spot either!
But when does the 3-2-1 go countdown starts?
Exactly 3 counts before you need to go!
@@dennisvandenbos8827😂
Whenever it helps you commit
Hi Kale, weren’t you going to announce a new board? Is that still happening? Cheers for the content!
Yep! Just slightly delayed - stay tuned and thank you for the patience!!
No worries. Looking forward to seeing it!
Do you think having the right surfboard when taking off on steep, intimidating waves makes a difference? Or is it more you can take off on any board just don’t look straight down but look down the line?
A very important factor
Well looks like I’m sticking to crumbling waves as I don’t have the right equipment for steeper waves 😁
Got any suggestions for trying to figure out which way is up when just going with the wipeout? I’ve tried relaxing in wipeouts before and then found myself swimming to the bottom instead of the top . I’ve tried climbing my leg rope but when it’s pulling horizontally in white water it doesn’t give much indication to which way is up.
Wait for the float
I got SMASHED one time on my twin fin fish, a bit shallow, steep & dumpy. I forever since have had a phobia of shallow waves (in the realistic sense, let’s not be silly about it) all the banks in my home town have shifted & has turned to cake. So this is actually a good vid. Go out, take a smash. It’ll buff right out 😂
❤
It's so hard to get out of water😢
What JS model is that Kale?
Schooner ( see previous video on RUclips titled “is this the most important surfboard for your quiver”
@@KalesBroccoli funny I actually was recommended that video by RUclips after I commented this, checked it out. Looks like a super sick board. I’m riding a 5’4 soft Hypto Krypto and a 7’0 Ova by Skindog… trying to put something in between my groveler and my middy
there's an episode of it's always sunny in philadelphia when frank sing-tells himself "go for it go for it" as he's preparing to indulge in a certain powdery white substance at his bar at 8 in the morning on a weekday. i also tell myself this as i turn around for a wave that scares me. the ridiculous image of frank and his voice in my head makes me laugh at myself a little and in turn makes the wave a bit less serious.
Deep, belly breath before I paddle. That way, if I wipe out, I have extra oxygen.
Who else came here for the pic?
What about your carbon footprint?
Be a dork in the lineup 😒😒😒