Well, I (we) kind of expected to see it in action. Because spending $80+ isn't a cheap purchase, I wan't to make sure this thing is going to do the proper job!
Wow, I feel dumb now that I watch this video. I just happened to receive my 2 asr flash hiders and noticed the difference in the post’s lengths and ran and contacted SilencerCo 😆. Very informative and educational video, thank you 👍💪
I’ve tried a few mounts but I keep coming back to the ASR. Our work guns have so called reverse thread pitch mounts for the huxworks cans and they have come loose at the range even with the reverse threads. I like ASR because it locks on with the lock ring.
Don't use heat to remove a rocksett muzzle device. Make a pot of boiling water and after bringing it to a boil let it sit for about 15-20 minutes. Torque to remove is on par with the torque you used to tighten it at install. Rocksett is water soluble. You don't have to be actively boiling the water. After you remove the muzzle device you might wish to redip the threads in the hot water for a few minutes before using a BRASS brush on the threads. No steel brushes. Lubricate your barrel after this process to get rid of water. Hit your threads with contact cleaner/degreaser before applying a new muzzle device. Easy life. Advice: NEVER use loctite on muzzle device threads or gas block set screw threads, only rocksett. Never use loctite or rocksett on your barrel nut, only 33ms aeroshell.
@@BlackTongue. Loctite red (pretty much all loctite products) have a temp range no greater than about 550. Your barrel and gas block are the hottest parts of your rifle along with the muzzle. Might as well use none at that point. Rocksett is the way.
@JenkinsStevenD Eh. You're right but I still disagree. Even if the red locktite gets hot - and softens up as a result - it's not like it's going to liquify and drain out of and exit the threads. It'll be gummy, yes, but will still be filling in any space between threads preventing set screws from backing out. But sure, rockset is still better (for most people). Personally when I make a new upper, everything is going to be permanent - I don't seap things around all the time so I'll have little to no reason to ever remove the gas block so for me, yes I do use rockset. But alot of folks are still figuring out what works for them and might want to change things around, in which case I think red locktite on set screws it plenty good enough.
@@BlackTongue. You can break free rocksett to modify things. I've done it on gas block set screws and I'd describe it as somewhere between blue and red loctite in terms of force, but certainly closer to blue. I've had to soak muzzle devices in water before to get the rocksett to let go. It's certainly a hassle though. I'm a bit overkill with my gas blocks. I dimple the barrel on both screws, rocksett them, and pin the gas block. I'm never intending to modify them after that though. Everyone seems to have an opinion on the matter. You do you.
While it does the job the draw back is your cleaning rod will get stuck in the prongs I bent and gouged up a steel rod glad I wasnt using a brass rod as it would have really torn it up. I have standard 3 prongs on other guns and have never had that issue. For the price you would think they would have made it right. There answer to me was you can try the ringed one. well duh but I didnt expect this one to have issues. hence I wont be buying another 3 prong from them.
Great review just a side not rocksett is easily loosened with water which is why its great for muzzle devices and suppressors where red loctite is loosened with heat and suppressors get hot so not as good for that purpose
Good quick review. I’m going to get that exact model. I am looking at different barrel lengths. Are you able to measure overall length to the shortest and longest tine?
It's ashame the 30cal ASR brake has a .375" I.D. where as my lantac dragon ASR 30 cal has a much smaller I.D. All my brakes are ASR, even an AR-9. Great product, just slightly unsatisfied with the 30 cal brake.
So you don’t need to time this device l? I plan to shoot mostly without my suppressor on one particular gun, so I was under the impression that the flat sides had to be up and down? Is this correct? I have shims and was about to put this device on with shims to time it. Any advice?
If I'm running a quick release, I don't necessarily care all touch if it's a 3prong or a brake, as 99% of the time it will be suppressed. I've gone back and forth on this over and over, and always come back to the same solution, if it's a sico or a cherry bomb, it's almost always suppressed, so why am I worrying about flash hiding if I'm already suppressed and hiding flash. Sure I'm building heat, but I'm still killing flash and report. That negates the benefits. Once I went suppressed, it's really hard to go back, whether it's on my 16" set ups, or my sbrs. Suppressed is always the answer. But I do admit, I like my sico 3prong, and I like my sico 3port. Non suppressed I always prefer the brakes on my sbs, but with a red spring and a h2 inline with the 3prong is a very clean set up. I'm a sico kinda guy for whatever reason. I've had good luck with their products, I don't do alot of swapping around, mostly nice to pop off or transport if I'm going somewhere, but even then, they stay on my set ups more than they cone off. I run almost all asr bravo, and again, love the products. Not biased, just had good luck and stayed with em. Need to step over to sure fire supprrsor for my sbr, but have yet to do so.
This was a remarkably helpful comment for me. Im leaning towards a SiCo Velos LPB for my first can so i can either wait for the included flash hider or buy a sick third party brake now. This is going on an 11.5 virtus sbr, I have historically always ran flashiders on AR-style rifles but see more and more brakes on serious 5.56 rifle setups lately. Am pretty worried about concussion with a brake on any rifle under
Thanks for the review. I am looking for the best flash hider on the market with the lowest lux. I am building a 13.9 pin and weld with either a ASR, Surefire SF3P or KAC QDC 3 prong. Unfortunately most of the night lux tests were conducted years ago so getting a comparison is a bit difficult. I also wonder out of the 3 which has the best can support?
@@FoxtrotGear I have the dead air on my recce pinned and welded it is a fabulous flash hider. But was looking for something a little smaller and/or cheaper. Thanks for the response!
@@d1ndark25 I sent the ASR back due to length and being threads. Dead air seems to have the best review in general. I'll probably stick with dead air on all the builds.
@@realpracticaltactical They don't stop the ping noise, they just reduce it. 3 different lengths produce three different pitches which are less audible.
![How To: Install a Muzzle Device [SilencerCo ASR Flash Hider]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oht9utQTpbs/mqdefault.jpg)
Well, I (we) kind of expected to see it in action. Because spending $80+ isn't a cheap purchase, I wan't to make sure this thing is going to do the proper job!
Wow, I feel dumb now that I watch this video. I just happened to receive my 2 asr flash hiders and noticed the difference in the post’s lengths and ran and contacted SilencerCo 😆. Very informative and educational video, thank you 👍💪
I’ve tried a few mounts but I keep coming back to the ASR. Our work guns have so called reverse thread pitch mounts for the huxworks cans and they have come loose at the range even with the reverse threads. I like ASR because it locks on with the lock ring.
Don't use heat to remove a rocksett muzzle device. Make a pot of boiling water and after bringing it to a boil let it sit for about 15-20 minutes. Torque to remove is on par with the torque you used to tighten it at install. Rocksett is water soluble. You don't have to be actively boiling the water. After you remove the muzzle device you might wish to redip the threads in the hot water for a few minutes before using a BRASS brush on the threads. No steel brushes. Lubricate your barrel after this process to get rid of water. Hit your threads with contact cleaner/degreaser before applying a new muzzle device. Easy life. Advice: NEVER use loctite on muzzle device threads or gas block set screw threads, only rocksett. Never use loctite or rocksett on your barrel nut, only 33ms aeroshell.
Why no locktite on gas block set screws?
@@BlackTongue. Loctite red (pretty much all loctite products) have a temp range no greater than about 550. Your barrel and gas block are the hottest parts of your rifle along with the muzzle. Might as well use none at that point. Rocksett is the way.
@JenkinsStevenD Eh. You're right but I still disagree. Even if the red locktite gets hot - and softens up as a result - it's not like it's going to liquify and drain out of and exit the threads. It'll be gummy, yes, but will still be filling in any space between threads preventing set screws from backing out. But sure, rockset is still better (for most people). Personally when I make a new upper, everything is going to be permanent - I don't seap things around all the time so I'll have little to no reason to ever remove the gas block so for me, yes I do use rockset. But alot of folks are still figuring out what works for them and might want to change things around, in which case I think red locktite on set screws it plenty good enough.
@@BlackTongue. You can break free rocksett to modify things. I've done it on gas block set screws and I'd describe it as somewhere between blue and red loctite in terms of force, but certainly closer to blue. I've had to soak muzzle devices in water before to get the rocksett to let go. It's certainly a hassle though. I'm a bit overkill with my gas blocks. I dimple the barrel on both screws, rocksett them, and pin the gas block. I'm never intending to modify them after that though. Everyone seems to have an opinion on the matter. You do you.
Excellent ! Best review on the ASR Flash Suppressor I've seen yet.
Thanks for watching!
While it does the job the draw back is your cleaning rod will get stuck in the prongs I bent and gouged up a steel rod glad I wasnt using a brass rod as it would have really torn it up. I have standard 3 prongs on other guns and have never had that issue. For the price you would think they would have made it right. There answer to me was you can try the ringed one. well duh but I didnt expect this one to have issues. hence I wont be buying another 3 prong from them.
So how well does it work?
Great review just a side not rocksett is easily loosened with water which is why its great for muzzle devices and suppressors where red loctite is loosened with heat and suppressors get hot so not as good for that purpose
Good quick review. I’m going to get that exact model. I am looking at different barrel lengths. Are you able to measure overall length to the shortest and longest tine?
It's ashame the 30cal ASR brake has a .375" I.D. where as my lantac dragon ASR 30 cal has a much smaller I.D. All my brakes are ASR, even an AR-9. Great product, just slightly unsatisfied with the 30 cal brake.
So you don’t need to time this device l? I plan to shoot mostly without my suppressor on one particular gun, so I was under the impression that the flat sides had to be up and down? Is this correct? I have shims and was about to put this device on with shims to time it. Any advice?
If I'm running a quick release, I don't necessarily care all touch if it's a 3prong or a brake, as 99% of the time it will be suppressed. I've gone back and forth on this over and over, and always come back to the same solution, if it's a sico or a cherry bomb, it's almost always suppressed, so why am I worrying about flash hiding if I'm already suppressed and hiding flash. Sure I'm building heat, but I'm still killing flash and report. That negates the benefits. Once I went suppressed, it's really hard to go back, whether it's on my 16" set ups, or my sbrs. Suppressed is always the answer. But I do admit, I like my sico 3prong, and I like my sico 3port. Non suppressed I always prefer the brakes on my sbs, but with a red spring and a h2 inline with the 3prong is a very clean set up. I'm a sico kinda guy for whatever reason. I've had good luck with their products, I don't do alot of swapping around, mostly nice to pop off or transport if I'm going somewhere, but even then, they stay on my set ups more than they cone off. I run almost all asr bravo, and again, love the products. Not biased, just had good luck and stayed with em. Need to step over to sure fire supprrsor for my sbr, but have yet to do so.
This was a remarkably helpful comment for me. Im leaning towards a SiCo Velos LPB for my first can so i can either wait for the included flash hider or buy a sick third party brake now. This is going on an 11.5 virtus sbr, I have historically always ran flashiders on AR-style rifles but see more and more brakes on serious 5.56 rifle setups lately. Am pretty worried about concussion with a brake on any rifle under
I love mine.
KAW valley sells one for $ 39.99.
Smith Vortex is the original and cost is $70 on their website.
Most people buying these are doing so because they are getting a Suppressor that needs the ASR mount. Smith Vortex does not support the ASR footprint
Thanks for the review. I am looking for the best flash hider on the market with the lowest lux. I am building a 13.9 pin and weld with either a ASR, Surefire SF3P or KAC QDC 3 prong. Unfortunately most of the night lux tests were conducted years ago so getting a comparison is a bit difficult. I also wonder out of the 3 which has the best can support?
Did you ever pick one?
@@d1ndark25 bought a surefire and a dead air flash hider. I am going with dead air on the first build. Seems to have a better qd system.
@@FoxtrotGear I have the dead air on my recce pinned and welded it is a fabulous flash hider. But was looking for something a little smaller and/or cheaper. Thanks for the response!
@@d1ndark25 I sent the ASR back due to length and being threads. Dead air seems to have the best review in general. I'll probably stick with dead air on all the builds.
@@FoxtrotGear yea I'll probably just go with another. Appreciate the input.
Hi can you pin and weld this muzzle?
There is no reason you can't. There are wrench flats that are easy for perpendicular drilling. I'm doing several soon.
The lengths are all different on mine. Is mine bad ? It’s not even
The tines aren't supposed to be an even length; the fact that they're uneven is how they stop the ping noise
@@realpracticaltactical They don't stop the ping noise, they just reduce it. 3 different lengths produce three different pitches which are less audible.
“Demo this for you all” and doesn’t fire the gun.👍🤡