Here are a few points to improve your technique: To clean threads, denatured alcohol, acetone or brake cleaner should be used also. The rest of your methods were good. Rokset will hold better under extreme heat than loctite or vibratite and can be removed/loosened with hot water instead of heat. When using rokset or a loktite or vibratite compound, let them set up 24 hours before shooting or apply about 170 degrees of heat to rokset to speed up set up times. There is no need to torque the threads to 30 ft lbs when using rokset. Something like 15 - 20 ft lbs is plenty as it puts less tension on your barrel threads which minimizes the barrels rifling diameter from getting smaller/tighter as torque is increased. Brownells and a couple other channels have a good video regarding this phenomenon. Use a level on the upper pic rail and on the barrel device flat spot to check perfect alignment when using a brake instead of a flash hider I would estimate something like 45 to 60 degrees will be enough rotation for approx 15-20 ft lbs. If using only grease or anti seize on the threads, 25 to 30 ft lbs is safer but it can effect accuracy if too much torque is applied, especially over 40 or 50 ft lbs. And it seems that barrels usung 1/2x28 threads are more sensitive to excess torque than 5/8x24 threads. Your torque wrench shouod be 90 degrees to the wrench jaws to achieve proper torque. With an AR barrel, it's even better to use a steel reaction rod in a vise like the midwest, which engages the barrel, similar but better than the block tool you used. Either are much better than a receiver block, which puts too much force on the upper receiver and can cause damage and misalignment. The school of American rifle channel has a good video showing this. Overall you had a useful video. Thanks for staring. Hope my tips help.
Dude! Killer comment, thanks for sharing the tips! I appreciate you taking the time to type this out, it's very useful info! I'll make sure to cover the points you made if I ever do an updated video 👍 Thanks for watching!
This is much clearer than most of the other videos on YT about this. Would you agree that most 3 or 4 prong flash hiders require no timing to speak of and don't need shims or a crush washer?
Thanks! I appreciate you watching! And yeah, I agree. Most flash hiders don't require timing or shims/a crush washer, but I always check the manufacturer's recommendations. I have seen some funky flash hider comp hybrids that require timing.
@@lovesosa4926 I'm not sure. I tried doing a little research for ya, but I cant find anything specific. I'd assume they'd send you the required tool to mounts the Xero system with your purchase no?
This may have already been mentioned, when ising that torque wrench with the armorer's tool, the torque wrench should be 90 degrees from the axis of tool. Using them parallel gives you inaccurate torque measurement.
If Mason’s Gun Room has a million fans, then I am one of them. If Mason’s Gun Room has ten fans, then I am one of them. If Mason’s Gun Room has only one fan then that is me. If Mason’s Gun Room has no fans, then that means I am no longer on earth. If the world is against Mason’s Gun Room then I am against the world.
This was great. Thank you! I have 2 ASR breaks that I need to install. The only thing I don't have is a good barrel clamp. I don't want to end up messing up my barrels so I'll probably just take them to my local gunsmith. I plan on having some trigger work done to a different firearm anyway so I'll get them all done at once
Gunsmith is the safest way for sure, but cost is something to think about. My local shop does muzzle installs for $60 a pop. A Magpul BEV block and a good vice costs under $100 Thanks for watching! 🙏
@@MasonsGunRoom Yeah the more I think about it I was going to clamp two 2x4's together and drill a big hole in there and then I have some rubber belting that I can lay in the grooves and use that as a barrel clamp. I already have a bench vise so that will cost me a couple of bucks. If it doesn't work oh well
Make sure your torque wrench is at a 90° angle when you’re torquing the flash hider down, or else the torque spec won’t be accurate. It looked like you had yours angled a little bit but I couldn’t tell super well.
Instead of loctite or rockset use teflon pipe thread tape. Works great. Been using it for forty years, never had anything come loose including suppressors on full auto. Tighter add more wraps, looser add less wraps. Removal is super easy and leaves no residue.
The main thing i got from this is no shims are actually needed for ASR flash hider. That is good because i wasn’t 100% sure. I use ASR flash hider on my rifles and single port ASR muzzle brakes on my pistols, which do need timing and shims.
Thanks for the video man. I was wondering in case I need a spacer where can I buy one? And thanks for mentioning not to use the crush washer, big help thank you.
Thanks for watching! I've seen packs on Amazon if you want to trust them, but most gun part online retailers (Midwest, Brownells, maybe PSA?) carry shims, spacers, and crush washers. You might be able to find something at Home Depot too lol
@@MasonsGunRoom No, the shop did not. They even asked for a s/h fee to send it back to SilencerCo for warranty work! Needless to say….I’ve got new smith and shop. 😎
Damn. That's a crappy situation. I had something similar with a local gunsmith happen to me. I asked him to mill down the 2 rear posts on my Hellcat so I could mount a Holosun. He milled the whole cut and left no posts, left bare metal exposed, mounted my optic even though i didn't ask him to, didn't use any loc-tite, and stripped my screws. When I asked him to replace it, he refused and said he could fix it. That's why I started learning how to do everything myself. I just can't trust any of these "gunsmiths"
Not extremely important, especially if it's a flash hider. Some people will time their muzzle device slightly off in the direction the body naturally fights the recoil. You'll have to play around with it and see what feels the best for you. Dead center is just general rule of thumb 👍 Thanks for watching!
Hi, Thanks for the great video. Quick question: i am getting ready to install the same ASR Flash Hider for use with the Hybrid 46 suppressor. Are you not supposed to use a crush washer at all with this configuration? What about if you direct thread mount the suppessor? Do you not use a crush washer for DTM either? Thanks!
Thanks! No crush washer at all. The crush washer could cause the muzzle device to seat improperly, and you run the risk of baffle strikes. If you don’t intend to use the ASR system, and instead will remove the flash hider and direct mount the can every time, then I suppose a crush washer is fine, but I’d recommend nothing at all as it doesn’t require it.
Thank you for explaining timing, I've been so confused about what that was. Just bought my first can today so I'm doing research like crazy while I wait on the commie ATF.
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching! Good luck on the wait, I've heard some news lately that some have been getting their eForm4s approved n less than a week 👍
My springfield saint has the same muzzle! Mine is california version. Barrel is less then 16 inches i believe its 14.5 with muzzle it comes out to 16. Im assuming its blind pinned or something because I cant find the pin to drill it out to remove it. I Want to remove the muzzle to be able to change out the handguard for a free float and swap out the gas block. Does anyone know how to remove a blind pin or if it even has a blind pin maybe soldering thats not visible? Mine looks exactly like his no visible pin mark or solder mark. I tried removing but wont budge. Ima try some heat and hopefully i dont break my upper reciever
Update. My barrel is 16 inch. The heat gun melted off the lactite or whatever compound they used to secure the muzzle. Muzzle is off now time to change the look of my rifle.
Hell yeah! They can be a bastard sometimes, glad you got it figured out👍Heat gun is a nice touch, probably easier on the metal than my blowtorch 😂 And as long as you have the upper properly secured and the barrel properly supported with a BEV block or control rod, you'll never damage your upper receiver. Thanks for watching! 😁
The tapered/smaller side towards the barrel but only use a crush washer on a small brake or flash hider and don't over tighten past 25-30 ft lbs. Don't use crush washers on a muzzle device used with a suppressor.
Vibra-Tite max temp is 300F. Your muzzle gets hotter than that. Use Rocksett and stop listening to these YT ricearoni jabronis with no M&P experience. Want to get a muzzle device off that has used this thread locker? Just take it to the range and do a mag dump, clear it, and it will come right off with approximately the same torque it was installed with. Why? Because this threadlocker does nothing over the temperature range you need it to. Have a nice day.
I agree with you on some parts of your statement, but not all. True, the muzzle will get hotter than 300F given you dump 100-200 rounds in 5 min. You're average shooter doesn't do that. Thread locker is not really required for most muzzle devices, it's only an insurance policy. All you need is proper torque. A large amount of companies say not to use thread locker because it lubricates the threads and can cause over torquing and stretch the threads. And Rocksett is for permanent applications. As in I never want to change this muzzle device, and if I do, I understand and accept the world of pain and frustration I'll be in. I do use it on a few rifles, but those I plan to never remove. I have sent close to 1500 rounds through this rifle since I did this video, and it's still happily attached. Here's one that'll blow your mind: My buddy doesn't use thread locker of any kind for any of his muzzle devices, just torque. Never had an issue. Don't believe Big Thread Locker 💪
Here are a few points to improve your technique:
To clean threads, denatured alcohol, acetone or brake cleaner should be used also. The rest of your methods were good.
Rokset will hold better under extreme heat than loctite or vibratite and can be removed/loosened with hot water instead of heat. When using rokset or a loktite or vibratite compound, let them set up 24 hours before shooting or apply about 170 degrees of heat to rokset to speed up set up times.
There is no need to torque the threads to 30 ft lbs when using rokset. Something like 15 - 20 ft lbs is plenty as it puts less tension on your barrel threads which minimizes the barrels rifling diameter from getting smaller/tighter as torque is increased. Brownells and a couple other channels have a good video regarding this phenomenon.
Use a level on the upper pic rail and on the barrel device flat spot to check perfect alignment when using a brake instead of a flash hider I would estimate something like 45 to 60 degrees will be enough rotation for approx 15-20 ft lbs. If using only grease or anti seize on the threads, 25 to 30 ft lbs is safer but it can effect accuracy if too much torque is applied, especially over 40 or 50 ft lbs. And it seems that barrels usung 1/2x28 threads are more sensitive to excess torque than 5/8x24 threads.
Your torque wrench shouod be 90 degrees to the wrench jaws to achieve proper torque.
With an AR barrel, it's even better to use a steel reaction rod in a vise like the midwest, which engages the barrel, similar but better than the block tool you used. Either are much better than a receiver block, which puts too much force on the upper receiver and can cause damage and misalignment. The school of American rifle channel has a good video showing this.
Overall you had a useful video. Thanks for staring. Hope my tips help.
Dude! Killer comment, thanks for sharing the tips! I appreciate you taking the time to type this out, it's very useful info! I'll make sure to cover the points you made if I ever do an updated video 👍
Thanks for watching!
This is much clearer than most of the other videos on YT about this. Would you agree that most 3 or 4 prong flash hiders require no timing to speak of and don't need shims or a crush washer?
Thanks! I appreciate you watching! And yeah, I agree. Most flash hiders don't require timing or shims/a crush washer, but I always check the manufacturer's recommendations. I have seen some funky flash hider comp hybrids that require timing.
@@MasonsGunRoom Will the avid armors wrench work on pcc mpx k Xeno Xero(1/2-28 )?
@@lovesosa4926 I'm not sure. I tried doing a little research for ya, but I cant find anything specific. I'd assume they'd send you the required tool to mounts the Xero system with your purchase no?
Had to sub to be the 1k subscriber. Good video my guy
Appreciate you 🙏 Thanks for watching!
Everytime Mason post's a video I always learn something new. Keep it up Mason!
Thanks Chew!
This may have already been mentioned, when ising that torque wrench with the armorer's tool, the torque wrench should be 90 degrees from the axis of tool. Using them parallel gives you inaccurate torque measurement.
I was not aware of this, thank you for informing me! 😁👍
If Mason’s Gun Room has a million fans, then I am one of them. If Mason’s Gun Room has ten fans, then I am one of them. If Mason’s Gun Room has only one fan then that is me. If Mason’s Gun Room has no fans, then that means I am no longer on earth. If the world is against Mason’s Gun Room then I am against the world.
😘 peachy
So gay
thank you for your service i just got a scythe TI gonna mount it soon with the ASR
Hell yeah man, enjoy! Happy to help! 😁
This was great. Thank you! I have 2 ASR breaks that I need to install. The only thing I don't have is a good barrel clamp. I don't want to end up messing up my barrels so I'll probably just take them to my local gunsmith. I plan on having some trigger work done to a different firearm anyway so I'll get them all done at once
Gunsmith is the safest way for sure, but cost is something to think about. My local shop does muzzle installs for $60 a pop. A Magpul BEV block and a good vice costs under $100
Thanks for watching! 🙏
@@MasonsGunRoom Yeah the more I think about it I was going to clamp two 2x4's together and drill a big hole in there and then I have some rubber belting that I can lay in the grooves and use that as a barrel clamp. I already have a bench vise so that will cost me a couple of bucks. If it doesn't work oh well
Thanks for the help dude! 🍻 I'll be mounting my first one this weekend.
Hell yeah, no problem 👍 Thanks for watching!
Make sure your torque wrench is at a 90° angle when you’re torquing the flash hider down, or else the torque spec won’t be accurate. It looked like you had yours angled a little bit but I couldn’t tell super well.
No issues so far, but you're right. Good catch! I'll make sure to pay attention to that in the future. Thanks!
Thanks man. Good info.
Thanks for watching! 🙏
Instead of loctite or rockset use teflon pipe thread tape. Works great. Been using it for forty years, never had anything come loose including suppressors on full auto. Tighter add more wraps, looser add less wraps. Removal is super easy and leaves no residue.
Interesting! I'll give it a try 👍
Thanks for watching!
Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Nice job!
Thank you! and thanks for watching!
The main thing i got from this is no shims are actually needed for ASR flash hider. That is good because i wasn’t 100% sure. I use ASR flash hider on my rifles and single port ASR muzzle brakes on my pistols, which do need timing and shims.
I’m glad my video helped! Thanks for watching 😁
Which direction should crush-washer face?
Thanks for the video man. I was wondering in case I need a spacer where can I buy one? And thanks for mentioning not to use the crush washer, big help thank you.
Thanks for watching! I've seen packs on Amazon if you want to trust them, but most gun part online retailers (Midwest, Brownells, maybe PSA?) carry shims, spacers, and crush washers. You might be able to find something at Home Depot too lol
Dude! My gunsmith used a crush washer when he installed the muzzle device. And yes….it did cause a baffle/end cap strike. 😫
😦Shit man that sucks, did he reimburse you in any way?
@@MasonsGunRoom No, the shop did not. They even asked for a s/h fee to send it back to SilencerCo for warranty work! Needless to say….I’ve got new smith and shop. 😎
Damn. That's a crappy situation. I had something similar with a local gunsmith happen to me. I asked him to mill down the 2 rear posts on my Hellcat so I could mount a Holosun. He milled the whole cut and left no posts, left bare metal exposed, mounted my optic even though i didn't ask him to, didn't use any loc-tite, and stripped my screws. When I asked him to replace it, he refused and said he could fix it.
That's why I started learning how to do everything myself. I just can't trust any of these "gunsmiths"
Isopropyl alcohol and rocksett
Great video, I'm getting it pin and welded. So it doesn't have to be timed and don't use crush washers, correct?
Thanks! And yeah, you are correct! No timing required and definitely don't use a crush washer.
You still need to time and torque the device before pin and welding.
How important is it to be timed dead bottom center? What if it is off just slightly?
Not extremely important, especially if it's a flash hider. Some people will time their muzzle device slightly off in the direction the body naturally fights the recoil. You'll have to play around with it and see what feels the best for you. Dead center is just general rule of thumb 👍
Thanks for watching!
Hi, Thanks for the great video. Quick question: i am getting ready to install the same ASR Flash Hider for use with the Hybrid 46 suppressor. Are you not supposed to use a crush washer at all with this configuration? What about if you direct thread mount the suppessor? Do you not use a crush washer for DTM either? Thanks!
Thanks!
No crush washer at all. The crush washer could cause the muzzle device to seat improperly, and you run the risk of baffle strikes.
If you don’t intend to use the ASR system, and instead will remove the flash hider and direct mount the can every time, then I suppose a crush washer is fine, but I’d recommend nothing at all as it doesn’t require it.
Thank you for explaining timing, I've been so confused about what that was. Just bought my first can today so I'm doing research like crazy while I wait on the commie ATF.
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching! Good luck on the wait, I've heard some news lately that some have been getting their eForm4s approved n less than a week 👍
My springfield saint has the same muzzle! Mine is california version. Barrel is less then 16 inches i believe its 14.5 with muzzle it comes out to 16. Im assuming its blind pinned or something because I cant find the pin to drill it out to remove it. I Want to remove the muzzle to be able to change out the handguard for a free float and swap out the gas block. Does anyone know how to remove a blind pin or if it even has a blind pin maybe soldering thats not visible? Mine looks exactly like his no visible pin mark or solder mark. I tried removing but wont budge. Ima try some heat and hopefully i dont break my upper reciever
Update. My barrel is 16 inch. The heat gun melted off the lactite or whatever compound they used to secure the muzzle. Muzzle is off now time to change the look of my rifle.
Hell yeah! They can be a bastard sometimes, glad you got it figured out👍Heat gun is a nice touch, probably easier on the metal than my blowtorch 😂 And as long as you have the upper properly secured and the barrel properly supported with a BEV block or control rod, you'll never damage your upper receiver.
Thanks for watching! 😁
Which direction should the crush washer face?
The concave side should be towards the muzzle device, flat side towards the barrel 👍
The tapered/smaller side towards the barrel but only use a crush washer on a small brake or flash hider and don't over tighten past 25-30 ft lbs. Don't use crush washers on a muzzle device used with a suppressor.
Whats size torch wrench?
It an Amazon Basics 1/2 inch
Brakecleen is your Freind
Vibra-Tite max temp is 300F. Your muzzle gets hotter than that. Use Rocksett and stop listening to these YT ricearoni jabronis with no M&P experience. Want to get a muzzle device off that has used this thread locker? Just take it to the range and do a mag dump, clear it, and it will come right off with approximately the same torque it was installed with. Why? Because this threadlocker does nothing over the temperature range you need it to. Have a nice day.
I agree with you on some parts of your statement, but not all. True, the muzzle will get hotter than 300F given you dump 100-200 rounds in 5 min. You're average shooter doesn't do that.
Thread locker is not really required for most muzzle devices, it's only an insurance policy. All you need is proper torque. A large amount of companies say not to use thread locker because it lubricates the threads and can cause over torquing and stretch the threads.
And Rocksett is for permanent applications. As in I never want to change this muzzle device, and if I do, I understand and accept the world of pain and frustration I'll be in. I do use it on a few rifles, but those I plan to never remove.
I have sent close to 1500 rounds through this rifle since I did this video, and it's still happily attached.
Here's one that'll blow your mind: My buddy doesn't use thread locker of any kind for any of his muzzle devices, just torque. Never had an issue. Don't believe Big Thread Locker 💪