Ford Twin I-Beam Pivot Bushing Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Like any suspension bushing, the I-beam pivot bushings on your Ford truck or Bronco wear out over time. This video will show you how to visually inspect and replace the worn bushings. The bushings are a very tight press fit, and this job cannot be done without a ball joint press and impact driver. Most auto parts stores will loan the ball joint press for free.
If the new bushing will not press in straight, you will need to "walk" it in (press each side little by little) with the ball joint press.
Buy the parts and tools used in this video:
Moog K8672 Pivot Bushing (2WD ONLY): amzn.to/2N83EbZ
Moog K8292 Pivot Bushing (4WD ONLY): amzn.to/2A3TqAW
Basic Ball Joint Press Kit: amzn.to/2PZ5Uow
Milwaukee Cordless Impact: amzn.to/2HS0y7S
Disclaimer:
This job requires the use of jacks, jack stands, and power tools, which can be dangerous, even deadly, if used improperly. Use all safety precautions when working on and around your vehicle.
Buy the parts and tools used in this video:
Moog K8672 Pivot Bushing (2WD ONLY): amzn.to/2N83EbZ
Moog K8292 Pivot Bushing (4WD ONLY): amzn.to/2A3TqAW
Basic Ball Joint Press Kit: amzn.to/2PZ5Uow
Milwaukee Cordless Impact: amzn.to/2HS0y7S
This will work on an econoline also right?
@@corey2069 should be the same if not very similar
@@corey2069 his method is spot on for all Ford twin I-beam setups.
Do not torque until full weight of vehicle is on or you will twist the bushing and it may fail prematurely
This video is spot on. I have been researching this bushing job and this is the most straightforward way to install new bushing....Thanx
In my experience if its time to replace the axle bushings, its also time to replace the bushings to everything else. Its easier just to take everything off. Press fit everything on a bench. then reassemble pivot axle first, radius arm, ball joints, shocks/springs, sway bar, calipers, and then tie rods. Unfortunately this costs roughly $1,500 in parts.
Worth it
No kidding.. As you have not lived. Till it's time to replace them King Pins...
@@WizzRacing been there.
52' Ford Crestline.
Damn near broke me, but I got it done.
For oem parts lol
Superclean undercarriage my man. 👍🏽
Gotta love it when someone makes a video that is No Bones (No Talking Xtra BS), you just got right down to the job & explained it Plain And Simple. ..... THANKS FOR A STRAIGHT FORWARD INSTRUCTION............. Now that said this video probably is not suited for someone that doesn't know their vehicle and is already mechanical of course if your not You Better Have a Bro THAT IS or your truck will Crush You DEAD........... 1987 Ford Bronco -- Pre April so some of it is a 86 Not the DANA 44 TBB
On my stock 93 EB dual shock, i found it easier to just use the press without hammering the edges. It’s only held in by a small lip.
Excellent video, direct to the point and no background noise, thank you great job, my brother has a 92 f150, so this is very helpful!
Speaking from experience it only works on two wheel drives, four-wheel drives you got to tear the entire fucking front end out of! And it's a pain in the ass
For all you people still driving these old Ford Trucks I have come up with the easiest and safest way to replace Axle Pivot Bushings on your F150. You won't have to remove the tires or springs at all.
You will need a set of ramps, a large floor jack, a ball joint replacement kit (Amazon $45), 2 Moog Bushings (Amazon $11 each), a 1/2 inch impact driver, an 18mm (or 13/16) wrench, a 21mm impact socket, a couple of medium pry bars or large screw drivers, a large torque wrench, a smaller flat chisel, an alignment punch and a saws all with a metal blade.
Drive your truck on the ramps and set the parking brake. Take your large floor jack to the side you wish to repair and jack the truck up until the wheel lifts off the ramp. Slide under the truck, remove the axle bushing bolt with the 18mm/21mm wrench and socket. Pry the I axle beam arm down to expose the bushing and insert a second pry bar above the beam to hold it. Take the flat chisel and drive the rear metal edges of the bushing inward. If you are lucky you can take a flat end punch and drive the bushing forward by striking the bent edges of the metal bushing. (Don't try to press the bushing from the front to rear, you need to drive the bushing towards the front of the truck.) If you can't get it moving you can force out the metal core and use a saws all to cut through the rubber and slice through the metal case in two places. You might want to start with just cutting the metal casing along the rear edge and pry a little more of the edge up and try the punch again. Just a little cutting and edge prying can free it up for the punch to work.
After you remove the bushing and clean the burrs out of the hole grease the new bushing and press in with the ball joint press and impact driver. It almost takes 3 hands to line up the heavy press while aligning it correctly. I used 2 hands and my big belly to do it. Don't drive the bushing all the way where the lip is flush, leave about a 3/16" gap like the factory did. Also be careful to use the right cup on the rear of the bushing so the bushing can protrude. It your bushing stops before it's all the way in you need to readjust the rear cup.
I don't see how it would be possible to press this bushing in without an impact driver and ball joint press.
Since you raised the one tire off the ground aligning the bushing holes is easy using the pry bar. I have seen videos of folks struggling with ratchet straps trying to align the bushing bolt holes but with the one tire off the ground it's easy. Put the bolt in and torque it to spec.
The car ramps stay under the front wheels the whole time so I think it's better than using jack stands. I am a 70 year old, obese man and I could do this. You can too! Good luck!
Thanks for the tips.
Gracias por compartir su experiencia y conocimiento
3:50 Seagulls 💥 🦅 💥
Thnk u thnk u thank u for this!!!
wheres the link to the pivot bracket that has two
Does it matter which way you put the bolt in
Did you torque the bolt for the axle pivot bushing without the vehicle weight on the axle? I am about to do this and wasn't sure. I know some other bushings require vehicle weight before torquing..
I would for sure do it with the vehicle weight on the axle. Suspension at normal ride height.
You just prevented the death rattle. Great job
Outstanding video. I used a ball joint press and impact gun just like he shows to get out the old bushings out, however, I didn't need to hammer in the sides of the bushing. I used a 1 1/4" impact socket from my Northern Tool set and it fit the backside of the old bushing perfectly and pressed it out in seconds. This was for a 1997 F350 2wd. I was also replacing the radius arm bushings, so I ended up taking out the coil springs and dropping everything down which made putting everything back together pretty easy.
Just did this job today on an ‘03 E150 van. Major PIA. Replaced the radius arm bushings last weekend, that was a piece of cake compared to this.
Wouldn’t it be easier to remove the springs first?
The HFT electric impact is awesome IMO.
Wher did you get those brackets to lower pivot bushing end of the I Beam for adjusting camber on a 3 5" lift?
I am wondering the same have you found them ?
Pro comp seems to have every individual part to the lift kits... I had to source drop brackets for my ttb and radius arms as well as drop pitman arm... it was fing hard to find a shop that would dig deep enough.... just keep google searching the specific part... I sourced mine from action truck accessories Ontario I know I found them from American suppliers it was just harder to find someone local I could get ahold of them
Thanks for the video, im doing mine now, great job!
awesome! planning to do the work this weekend and I decided to change the radius arm bushings as well. But, I do not know the part number on the radius arm, I tried to avoid removing the bushing and measuring then ordering, but it looks like I have no choice at this point... thanks for the help!
Will this fix an issue where the front tires are leaning? Ball joints seem to be fine and springs have been replaced, but the truck's front tires are leaning... Thanks
I need to know the same thing. I have outer wear on my tires evenly on both side just on the outside
@@brandonmitchell4836 Found the issue! It was the toe-end, I just couldn't figure out the problem but decided to just do something I should've done to start with and checked the toe-end (a little goes a long ways) and it straightened the wheels right up.
If anyone uses Energy Suspension bushings it is important to only remove the internal bolt sleeve and the rubber bushing material. With their kit the other sleeve is reused with the bushing replacements. Good idea about using the floor jack to do the I-beams. I did not think of that at first - thought about it for a couple hours before coming to the same conclusion.
what was the torque for that nut?
Impact rules the world, that and a good wrench like you, well done. Thx for posting.
It sure pays to do your research thoroughly! This video was worth going through several others to find, and kept me from possibly making a dangerous error AND saving me a bunch of time, too!
Frame shop wanna change upwards of $400 for this job on my 1995 mazda b2300. I don't think so! Everything they do is very pricy. They should be called a rip off shop. If you have all the necessary tools to complete the job, why are you using specialty prices. If you ask me, they're a bunch of cons.
What size socket was used to press out old ball joint? torque spec?
Should be similar on my 1979, bushings just arrived so i'll be diving into that soon. Thanks for the vid.
Perfect! Thanks. I'll be on this soon.
hoping i can finagle this job with mostly the hammer i have on hand.
Would it work on a 91 ranger twin traction beam ? Looking to remove as minimum as possible
Very informative and concise !!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge !!!
Does this stop the over stearing /swaying in the steering?
If you haven't gotten your answer, I'll let you know when I change mine this weekend.
@@christianbelcourt279 how did it whent?
@@jonathanbotello1420 90 percent of my issue gone now.
Might want to check your steering pump.
Nice video! To the point.
And I thought there was only one according to some other vids I've watched therefore I'm glad I watched this!
Don’t let the video fool you. It can be done without the impact. In about the same time it took him to use the impact.
Yeah it’s not very fun and no it’s not quicker without the impact don’t lie
great video, I am assuming it would be the same on a 1970 F100 with 1978 Front I-beams. I think i will pop the bushing out first and insert the new one before assembly. (is the part number for 78 F100 i beam same part # I wonder (Moog K8672 Pivot Bushing (2WD ONLY)???
Love the one glove .. Ain't that the way it goes
What size socket did you use to press the brushing
Are they different sizes it shows several on rockauto
Not sure the socket size, just whatever fit lol. 2wd and 4wd bushings are different sizes.
Where did yoy get the drop brackets?
Do at your own risk.. You bet....As them coil springs can be old and break on you..Worse come flying out....Why I always strapped the spring down..
That's not true.. we all can't afford nice impact's I used a long half inch drive rachet and small piece of pipe
The bushings on my 92 f150 arent seated flat against the i beam, the flat end sticks out about 1/8 to maybe 3/16, both are the same, i couldnt tell if you seated it flat against the i beam?
THank you A video short and to the point ...you have gained a sub
The actual bracket itself on my truck is like almost sheered off, how do I get everything out of the way so I have access to replacing the actual bracket
Thanks, this will save me a lot of time. I needed to replace all bushings, so took out full suspension, which makes it kinda easier on angles ;).
Would this be somewhat similar to a TTB on a 95 f250?
Same thing
On some vehicles the anti rock can be located in front of the axle.
Still above the frame but at a lower location allowing it to reach higher in the arc and possibly full droop
And, by the way. Thanks for the video sir!!
I'm glad I found this video. I thought I was going to have to drop the springs to do this.
You did this without removing anything but the bolts lol nice
prntscr.com/vv7ky6 What is this peg for that is on a ford I-beam. Is it a tie down peg?
nice video.,that’s a f250 or f150..?
I may be wrong but I think the 250's from those years had solid axles, 150's and Broncos had the twin beams
My 1990 ford f250 2wd has the twin ibeam
Gracias
What year of 2wd and where did you find the beam pivot brackets for a life?
Good video, I will use it on my 91 F-250.
How did you get the bolt out you skipped that in you video
Also I notice 2 mounting holes can you mount on the lower if you have a level kit to try to bring the camber back in??
Capo total....
YOU CAN DO IT WITH OUT THE IMPACT DRIVER IT'S EASY
This is very helpful. Remember, (thanks Rainman Ray) we pull better than we push---think torque wrench.
Just be careful you don't pull, slip, and fall. Ask me how I know!
Great video bro,video quality is off the hook,what kind of camera is that
Hi there are those stock I beam connectors or are they aftermarket (are they the ones use to lift the truck)
Is the bushing two different sizes
Wat size bolt 1/2in or 5/8
For some reason I thought that would have been more complicated, gonna have to go buy some bushings now and do this.
Who makes those ibeam and Radius Arm drop down brackets that you have?
Unfortunately not sure. It came with the lift kit installed by previous owner. I think it's just a Rough Country 4" lift.
Is it the same for 4x4?
What's the spec brother?
Nice video. Thank you for posting!
Why do you have brackets that can lower your I beams and I don’t
I believe it is a part of the lift kit that was on the truck when I purchased it.
Can it be done this way if have leaf springs
Saludos desde argentina
GOOD JOB YOUNG MAN !
Mine wouldn’t go back in. It just bent the metal sleeve
Damn, that sucks.
Will the truck shake if there bad plez help my truck has a vibrating shake through the truck
If the bushings are badly worn it is possible. A wobble or vibration I would start by checking ball joints and tie rods.
Also check radius arm bushings. Those can make all kinds of problems. I just did mine and it was a vast improvement
Think you will do a rebuild with another turbo?
Yes. Currently waiting for my special order pistons to come in and will be rebuilding the turbo engine.
Awesome good info... thanks
Good job
Yeah... Tried the whole replacement without dropping the whole axle and it's a real pain. I reccomend just dropping everything and have a shop press it in. I've lost $40 in bushings from not being able to get them to go in square. Just take to shop.
It's a royal pain but can be done
Can these bushings cause a hwy vibrations kinda like a death wobble feel?
Yes it can cause a vibration
How's the turbo 300 build coming along?
In a few weeks I have more videos coming out on the turbo build(s). Currently I am tackling some things to prepare for the added power of BOOST!
Great info. Thanks
YOU DONT NEED THE IMPACT... IT HELPS ALOT BUT THIS JOB ACN BE DONE WITH OUT IT.
From factory the bushings have like an 1/8" gap from seating all the way, ive always have pressed them all the way in, now I'm thinking I've been doing it the wrong way.
What do you think OP?
Fixed is fixed. I'd run it.
I got a 94 and a 95 of one of these trucks great job brother !!!