Wow what a difference it is to drive with new lower control arm bushings and ball joints…. Was well worth the hours of work and fluid loss from the Australian Queensland heat. I cheated and used Whiteline lower control arms completely but kept the worn out Toyota arms and may have a go at restoring them for future use.
that's a lot of work for control arm bushings. I like how the bolts just lined up after installing the lca.. when I did my lift I had to use ratchet straps to compress the spring enough to get those ball joint bolts to line up.. it was a major pain.
Obviously, replacement of the lower control arm as a complete unit is also an option. The cutting of the frozen adjusters and bushings would be needed for either option. This video gives another choice with a different effort vs cost ratio!
I just had my rack and pinoin mount bushings replaces lower control arm bushkit replaced castor/cam adj kit both sway bar link kits replaced. Bellow/boot kit. Outer tire rod end In tie rod end. Plus 4 wheel thrust angle alignment, adjusted castor and toe as needed before & after settings. X Rotation on tires. It was on the 2001 Toyota Tacoma TRD crew cab. It was all original. I asked him to check out front bushings as I've heard that they have been problematic. For a 21 year old truck all ive had done was regular maintenance oil changes and tire changes. Added a TRD supercharger in it 13 years ago. It's paid off & never plan to selling it. Just 725 $ /855$ labor. 115 taxes totalling 1 ,687$ . A shop that I trust. Could have snapped & dropped down to the fender and doors. Whew drives great now. I'm glad I decided to ask him to check it out ! I'm good for another 200k miles or more. I couldn't have done it myself after seeing this .Drives so good 👍
Where did you get it done with their contact info because I cannot find any shop that wants to do any pressing they all want me to spend $800 more to buy upper and lower control arms when all I need is bushings
Helping a friend replace his lower control arm bushings on a 02 Tacoma. We were able to press out the bushings but the metal sleeves did not come out with them and are stuck inside the lower control arms. We have followed the directions on here by cutting them in half and using air hammer and it not getting them out any other ideas?
Are you sure you have cut all the way through the outer shell? Once the outer shell is cut through and the press fit is relaxed, you should be able to collapse the shell and drive it out. We've never had one here which was so corroded the shell would not come out. Just make sure you cut the shell with the saw blade aiming at the rest of the control arm so even if you do cut into the end ring a little, it will be fully supported by the arm.
Yes we verified the inner metal sleeve was cut all the way through. We even made another cut about a half inch to the side of the first cut and try to knock out that piece of the sleeve. None of this word had to end up taking it to a local shop with a press to drive it out. It’s done now but would have liked one of these methods to work without having to pay a shop. For future reference anyone doing this job I would highly recommend looking into strong flex poly bushings for the first GEN Tacoma‘s. They can be pushed right into that existing metal sleeve that way you don’t have to fight with it the way we did.
Yes we verified the inner metal sleeve was cut all the way through. We even made another cut about a half inch to the side of the first cut and try to knock out that piece of the sleeve. None of this word had to end up taking it to a local shop with a press to drive it out. It’s done now but would have liked one of these methods to work without having to pay a shop. For future reference anyone doing this job I would highly recommend looking into strong flex poly bushings for the first GEN Tacoma‘s. They can be pushed right into that existing metal sleeve that way you don’t have to fight with it the way we did.
Yes we verified the inner metal sleeve was cut all the way through. We even made another cut about a half inch to the side of the first cut and try to knock out that piece of the sleeve. None of this word had to end up taking it to a local shop with a press to drive it out. It’s done now but would have liked one of these methods to work without having to pay a shop. For future reference anyone doing this job I would highly recommend looking into strong flex poly bushings for the first GEN Tacoma‘s. They can be pushed right into that existing metal sleeve that way you don’t have to fight with it the way we did.
Yes we verified the inner metal sleeve was cut all the way through. We even made another cut about a half inch to the side of the first cut and try to knock out that piece of the sleeve. None of this word had to end up taking it to a local shop with a press to drive it out. It’s done now but would have liked one of these methods to work without having to pay a shop. For future reference anyone doing this job I would highly recommend looking into strong flex poly bushings for the first GEN Tacoma‘s. They can be pushed right into that existing metal sleeve that way you don’t have to fight with it the way we did.
SPC can probably supply one through Customer Service at 800-525-6505. Which cam bolt kit do you have? Or, what is your truck? It may be possible to give you material and dimensions so you can find it locally.
The plastic sleeve in our kit is a spacer to fill the gap in the new bushing. The stock adjuster bolt has a bolt through a sleeve also. You can't see that in this video because it was seized to the bushing inner sleeve and that is why the arm needed to be cut out.
Good suggestion. Anyone who has NOT worked on a rust belt car might not understand this. However, we have seen Toyota adjuster bolts seize on 3-year old trucks from non-salt areas which don't have a spec of rust anywhere else!
I was wondering i had got the rears trailing arms?? Replaced on my 2001 Toyota Avalon XL..& the new arms or old arms does not have the adjustment bolt..on them. Would I need a alignment afterwards??
As a general rule, any time a suspension or steering component is replaced, an alignment is recommended. In your case, the Avalon comes from the factory with only rear toe adjustability. If the rear camber is not in spec, the 81270 EZ-Cam bolts are available. 1 box has 2 bolts; enough to adjust both sides. On a similar note, the front takes a different size EZ-Cam for front camber adjustment, the 81290. www.spcalignment.com/index.php?option=com_spc&task=part_description&pid=81270&Submit_form=Submit www.spcalignment.com/index.php?option=com_spc&task=part_description&pid=81290&Submit_form=Submit
AMIGO soy de Colombia mi trabajo es parecido cambio de bujes y rodamientos , pero discúlpame la manera en la que cambias los bujes de esta tijera , no es la mejor aporreas mucho el ojo con esas herramientas , es mas facil quitar el anillo superior con pulidora , luego vas ala prensa y sacas el buje interior , luego vas ala prensa de banco amarras bien la tijera y sacas los bujes con un cincel pequeño de acero , con un martillo y con cuidado , así aporreas menos la tijera , yo me demoro 15 minutos cambiando los cuatro bujes me gano cerca de 50 dolares claro que es en Colombia , aca hay demasiadas Toyota
I am assuming you are asking about replace standard rubber bushing with poly style bushing on SPC Toyota upper control arms. If so please see this product page.www.spcalignment.com/index.php?option=com_spc&task=part_description&pid=25476
SPC Toyota cam bolt kits WILL work with stock lower bushings per the Application Guide on the SPC website. This video was to explain the procedure for removing frozen adjusters. Once the bushings are replaced (or the whole control arms) then the SPC or OE Toyota adjusters will function correctly.
The flange on the lower control arm bushings is great to push the new bushings in, but makes removal difficult because the flange Outside Diameter is larger than the end ring OD. Normal press tool cylinders will not work. Plus, most shops (and many individuals) have access to a reciprocating saw.
@@specialtyproductscompanysp8027 humm interesting... I am asking because I am about to embark on this journey.. I hope in the next weekend to lower my subframe and to replace those but I was hoping I could avoid cutting, burning or otherwise invasive processes... but I guess I will have no choice...
friend and excuse me but note that the position of the large bushing is wrong, the large one equalizes Asia on the sides, so they will be damaged quickly, and the small Asia above and below of course, in the small ones sometimes they do not have a position , sorry
FRIEND I'm from Colombia my work is similar to change bushings and bearings, but excuse me the way you change the bushings of this scissor, it's not the best, you hit the eye a lot with those tools, it's easier to remove the upper ring with a polisher, then you go to the press and remove the internal bushing, then you go to the bench press, tie the scissors well and remove the bushings with a small steel chisel, with a hammer and carefully, so you pound the scissors less, it takes me 15 minutes changing The four hubs earned me about 50 dollars of course it's in Colombia, here there are excesses Toyota
In that case, you will need to cut the frame around the control arm to remove it...Make sure you have enough super glue to reattach the frame once you're done.
Wow what a difference it is to drive with new lower control arm bushings and ball joints…. Was well worth the hours of work and fluid loss from the Australian Queensland heat. I cheated and used Whiteline lower control arms completely but kept the worn out Toyota arms and may have a go at restoring them for future use.
Wow! I think buying new arms is the way to he here!
Buying a new control are will cost way more than you want to spend, this is the cheapest way.
Sure is!
Just did mine. Replacement of the control arms is the way to go.
that's a lot of work for control arm bushings. I like how the bolts just lined up after installing the lca.. when I did my lift I had to use ratchet straps to compress the spring enough to get those ball joint bolts to line up.. it was a major pain.
Obviously, replacement of the lower control arm as a complete unit is also an option. The cutting of the frozen adjusters and bushings would be needed for either option. This video gives another choice with a different effort vs cost ratio!
Reciprocating saw solves everything
I just had my rack and pinoin mount bushings replaces lower control arm bushkit replaced castor/cam adj kit both sway bar link kits replaced. Bellow/boot kit. Outer tire rod end In tie rod end. Plus 4 wheel thrust angle alignment, adjusted castor and toe as needed before & after settings. X Rotation on tires. It was on the 2001 Toyota Tacoma TRD crew cab. It was all original. I asked him to check out front bushings as I've heard that they have been problematic. For a 21 year old truck all ive had done was regular maintenance oil changes and tire changes. Added a TRD supercharger in it 13 years ago. It's paid off & never plan to selling it. Just 725 $ /855$ labor. 115 taxes totalling 1 ,687$ . A shop that I trust. Could have snapped & dropped down to the fender and doors. Whew drives great now. I'm glad I decided to ask him to check it out ! I'm good for another 200k miles or more. I couldn't have done it myself after seeing this .Drives so good 👍
That is a lot of work and $.
Where did you get it done with their contact info because I cannot find any shop that wants to do any pressing they all want me to spend $800 more to buy upper and lower control arms when all I need is bushings
Which tools do you use have link to buy
Don't forget your carbide blades! Normal thick metal blades will burn out quick. These blades will save you so much time the cam bolts are grade 10!
Remove the bolt and cut the sleeve. I had to hammer one bolt out but others came out pretty easily
Thank you for the video. Does your cam bolts with part #25440 work for a 2019 4Runner?
Thanks for video!
Where can I get the upper and lower arm bushings kit from.
Helping a friend replace his lower control arm bushings on a 02 Tacoma. We were able to press out the bushings but the metal sleeves did not come out with them and are stuck inside the lower control arms. We have followed the directions on here by cutting them in half and using air hammer and it not getting them out any other ideas?
Are you sure you have cut all the way through the outer shell? Once the outer shell is cut through and the press fit is relaxed, you should be able to collapse the shell and drive it out. We've never had one here which was so corroded the shell would not come out. Just make sure you cut the shell with the saw blade aiming at the rest of the control arm so even if you do cut into the end ring a little, it will be fully supported by the arm.
Yes we verified the inner metal sleeve was cut all the way through. We even made another cut about a half inch to the side of the first cut and try to knock out that piece of the sleeve. None of this word had to end up taking it to a local shop with a press to drive it out. It’s done now but would have liked one of these methods to work without having to pay a shop. For future reference anyone doing this job I would highly recommend looking into strong flex poly bushings for the first GEN Tacoma‘s. They can be pushed right into that existing metal sleeve that way you don’t have to fight with it the way we did.
Yes we verified the inner metal sleeve was cut all the way through. We even made another cut about a half inch to the side of the first cut and try to knock out that piece of the sleeve. None of this word had to end up taking it to a local shop with a press to drive it out. It’s done now but would have liked one of these methods to work without having to pay a shop. For future reference anyone doing this job I would highly recommend looking into strong flex poly bushings for the first GEN Tacoma‘s. They can be pushed right into that existing metal sleeve that way you don’t have to fight with it the way we did.
Yes we verified the inner metal sleeve was cut all the way through. We even made another cut about a half inch to the side of the first cut and try to knock out that piece of the sleeve. None of this word had to end up taking it to a local shop with a press to drive it out. It’s done now but would have liked one of these methods to work without having to pay a shop. For future reference anyone doing this job I would highly recommend looking into strong flex poly bushings for the first GEN Tacoma‘s. They can be pushed right into that existing metal sleeve that way you don’t have to fight with it the way we did.
Yes we verified the inner metal sleeve was cut all the way through. We even made another cut about a half inch to the side of the first cut and try to knock out that piece of the sleeve. None of this word had to end up taking it to a local shop with a press to drive it out. It’s done now but would have liked one of these methods to work without having to pay a shop. For future reference anyone doing this job I would highly recommend looking into strong flex poly bushings for the first GEN Tacoma‘s. They can be pushed right into that existing metal sleeve that way you don’t have to fight with it the way we did.
Very nice thanks for the idea.... ✌️✌️✌️
where did you buy the bushings
These bushings were sourced from a Toyota dealership. Any direct replacement bushings may be used.
@@specialtyproductscompanysp8027 thank you for the info
Where could I source a camber bolt sleeve? I have the bolt still, but am struggling to find a sleeve to go inside the new bushing.
SPC can probably supply one through Customer Service at 800-525-6505. Which cam bolt kit do you have? Or, what is your truck? It may be possible to give you material and dimensions so you can find it locally.
Unbolt sway bar link. Important step.
Not if you dont have them anymore. XD
Question what is that plastic part that go over the bolt?
The plastic sleeve in our kit is a spacer to fill the gap in the new bushing. The stock adjuster bolt has a bolt through a sleeve also. You can't see that in this video because it was seized to the bushing inner sleeve and that is why the arm needed to be cut out.
thanks will help out👍 ,, but try to check out your wep address only got TV providers 🤔
Which brand name of bushing u recommend for replacement
Buy yellow colored urethane bushings made in Russia by-> Siberian Bushings... expensive, but they are the best in my opinion...
If you live in snow , give your under carrage after each drive or at the end of the day , that will remove the salt that eats your under carrage .
Good suggestion. Anyone who has NOT worked on a rust belt car might not understand this. However, we have seen Toyota adjuster bolts seize on 3-year old trucks from non-salt areas which don't have a spec of rust anywhere else!
Give it what?
@@TheRogerKyle a kiss 😘
@@TheRogerKyle hose it down
I was wondering i had got the rears trailing arms?? Replaced on my 2001 Toyota Avalon XL..& the new arms or old arms does not have the adjustment bolt..on them.
Would I need a alignment afterwards??
As a general rule, any time a suspension or steering component is replaced, an alignment is recommended. In your case, the Avalon comes from the factory with only rear toe adjustability. If the rear camber is not in spec, the 81270 EZ-Cam bolts are available. 1 box has 2 bolts; enough to adjust both sides. On a similar note, the front takes a different size EZ-Cam for front camber adjustment, the 81290. www.spcalignment.com/index.php?option=com_spc&task=part_description&pid=81270&Submit_form=Submit
www.spcalignment.com/index.php?option=com_spc&task=part_description&pid=81290&Submit_form=Submit
This is entirely too much work to remove the bushings…you can press them out with a ball joint press.
You can't, because mongrel designers at Toyota made that option impossible too. They are the worst bush replace job I have ever come across.
did the brake calipers have to come off?
That should not be necessary.
AMIGO soy de Colombia mi trabajo es parecido cambio de bujes y rodamientos , pero discúlpame la manera en la que cambias los bujes de esta tijera , no es la mejor aporreas mucho el ojo con esas herramientas , es mas facil quitar el anillo superior con pulidora , luego vas ala prensa y sacas el buje interior , luego vas ala prensa de banco amarras bien la tijera y sacas los bujes con un cincel pequeño de acero , con un martillo y con cuidado , así aporreas menos la tijera , yo me demoro 15 minutos cambiando los cuatro bujes me gano cerca de 50 dolares claro que es en Colombia , aca hay demasiadas Toyota
Is it possible to change spc upper control arm rubber end ring and replace it with polyurethane bushings?
I am assuming you are asking about replace standard rubber bushing with poly style bushing on SPC Toyota upper control arms. If so please see this product page.www.spcalignment.com/index.php?option=com_spc&task=part_description&pid=25476
Poly is tough but it's crap. Becomes noise after a while
So I can not use a spc cam bolts on a stock lower control arm bushing rt
SPC Toyota cam bolt kits WILL work with stock lower bushings per the Application Guide on the SPC website. This video was to explain the procedure for removing frozen adjusters. Once the bushings are replaced (or the whole control arms) then the SPC or OE Toyota adjusters will function correctly.
The spc bolt i have came in two different sizes, it is kinda loose when I put the spc bolts in place.
@@4bvenom733 Please provide vehicle model & year as well as the part number of the kit you have. The first step is to check these. Thanks
You could of just used the air hammer from the start done it multiple times
Good
why don't you use a bushing press kit to remove the oem bushing ?! why did you had to saw, drill it and cut it !?
The flange on the lower control arm bushings is great to push the new bushings in, but makes removal difficult because the flange Outside Diameter is larger than the end ring OD. Normal press tool cylinders will not work. Plus, most shops (and many individuals) have access to a reciprocating saw.
@@specialtyproductscompanysp8027 humm interesting... I am asking because I am about to embark on this journey.. I hope in the next weekend to lower my subframe and to replace those but I was hoping I could avoid cutting, burning or otherwise invasive processes... but I guess I will have no choice...
I will take this lower control arm to the torner shop he will do all bushing in $ 10
This is what was making clunking noise on my 2009 Toyota tacoma 4.0L
friend and excuse me but note that the position of the large bushing is wrong, the large one equalizes Asia on the sides, so they will be damaged quickly, and the small Asia above and below of course, in the small ones sometimes they do not have a position , sorry
I am looking for corect position for the bushings, please what do you mean by Asia în sides-the marks ?
what state do you work in ?
SPC is based in Longmont, Colorado.
I work in state of confusion or state of denial...
Even caster??!! It will have a pull to the right! 2.5 on the right side is key here🙄
I farted while I was watching this.
We all did.
Just buy new lowers it’s cheaper and way more cost effective.
How is it cheaper? What if you want to keep your better quality oem control arm? Genuinely interested, I am weighing up options right now myself.
Definitely not cheaper, but way easier and faster especially if you dont have the tools
FRIEND I'm from Colombia my work is similar to change bushings and bearings, but excuse me the way you change the bushings of this scissor, it's not the best, you hit the eye a lot with those tools, it's easier to remove the upper ring with a polisher, then you go to the press and remove the internal bushing, then you go to the bench press, tie the scissors well and remove the bushings with a small steel chisel, with a hammer and carefully, so you pound the scissors less, it takes me 15 minutes changing The four hubs earned me about 50 dollars of course it's in Colombia, here there are excesses Toyota
Reno klio letva
buy good tool
Kind of a crappy video. You don't actually go over how to replace if you CAN get the bushing out.....I get it how but not everyone might....
Cry me a river 😂😂😂
In that case, you will need to cut the frame around the control arm to remove it...Make sure you have enough super glue to reattach the frame once you're done.
why do you need to know anyway?, its not like you're gonna be replacing any of them
@@mathew5956 bwwwwaaaaahahaha hahaha ha ha ha
No, this video was great.
lol
Boooo abd Boooo