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Stop Soldering-Use These Solderless Connectors Instead (320)
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- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2024
- Soldering feeders and making splices under a model railroad can be an uncomfortable and downright dangerous job should you end up with a plash of molten solder on your face. So whenever I can find a way to avoid soldering wires I opt for it. In this video I'll introduce you to 5 types of connectors that do not require soldering and will make your wiring go a lot faster as well.
Wire nuts are available at almost any hardware store that sells electrical supplies as well as All Electronics.
All the Quick Splices, Quick Taps, and Quick Connects (spade connects) come from All Electronics.
3M 905 IDC, Push In, and Wago connectors were purchased from Amazon.
Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:28 Detector wheelsets update
1:35 Wire nuts
4:44 3M IDC connectors
10:04 Quick splice
10:57 Quick-taps
13:30 Push In
15:50 Wago
18:38 Wrapup
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I've just replaced a bunch of screw terminals with Wagos at our club layout, next on the electrical plan is using the quick-taps for dcc bus droppers. Better than the traditional suitcase connectors, and soldering on the underside of a layout baseboard is a royal pain... Thanks for the review.
Thanks Larry. This was a nice look at some of the options. I recently bought an assortment of WAGO connectors for an extension of my layout and I really like them! You are correct, they cost a bit more up front, but they sure offer some nice options. I recently saw an ad for a spkucing cinnevtor that used tow temp solder. The wires are placed in each end a heat gun warms the solder to melt. Interesting idea, but I want to learn more about them.
Thanks for the follow up on the detector wheelsets and a great video on connectors. Those Wagos come in multiples which are great for doing a bus to multiple track feeders like in a yard.
Great topic Larry! This was long overdue.
Larry as always great tips I started using Suite Case connectors but found that If I need to work on that wire it was difficult to remove the suit case and the wire was split now. So I switched to T-connectors they work for me a lot nicer if I need to work on that section of wire or device I just unplug the spade connector. Another thing with the suit case connectors I found that sometimes when I was crimping the wire the metal piece would bend over to one side or the other and then would have to replace the suit case. thats another reason I switched to the t connectors
Yes, that is what I meant by getting a good square crimp. The T-taps are great where you might need to unplug a component whereas the suitcase connectors are best for what are essentially permanent connections.
I love Wago and IDC connectors. Great video showing how to use them. BEWARE of cheap Chinese lookalikes! I speak from experience!
I just discovered the quick taps/T-taps while starting my new layout. I wish I'd have found them sooner. So easy to use
What can I use to connect the very thin copper coil wires on a Kadee Electromagnetic decoupler?
Hey Larry good points Addressed i used the Suit Case connectors along with my Wire Blocks to Hook up my Buss with my Kato Power Railjoiners.. The Wago's are very useful to attach wires Running off the Buss because the Ports can take a Variance of Wire Size Your Buss can be 12 to 14 Gauge solid or Stranded & fit the port & from that you can run the same or drop the Wires size..
One thing I Do Larry with all my Stranded Wire is I put a Ferrule on with good Ferrules & a Good termination tool you won't have to worry about a Strayed or Frayed wiring ruining your wiring job all of my Stranded wires running to & from my systems to my Circuit Breakers i use Ferrules on the Wire.. One other thing that is Awesome about the Wago's is they have a test port's we're you can test your Wire connection the Ideal's connectors might include this on there connectors as Well if you use say the 5 port connector like I have set up on my Programming Track I used 3 ports for the Wiring then I set up with the 5th port the test port to my Track volt tester.. Using the Wago's makes set up like these vary versatile
One thing to keep in mind on the Wago's as you start to use them! As they have 2, ports 3 ports or 5 ports these ports are connected as ONE port there not individually separate so if your Wiring using a Buss use One full Wago 223 for Red or Hot & one 223 for your white Neutral Wire.. Wago's will give any hobbiest a good many Years of service..
Larry hope it was ok to add my Thoughts to A very Good Video..
Thank you for being the DCC Guy.. Allen
I've used Wago's for years. Never any problem out of them on house hold wiring.
Great video and information. I am planning on using WAGOs as covers everything from bus to feeders with one type of connector, no need for multiple types of connectors and I sure don't want to be soldering under the track table LOL!
Allright, Puckett; Now get this straight - your video's are the most helpful and the best. (Did you like that "film-noir" gangster-era narrative i gave in my thank you response?) Seriously, Larry, thanks for such a helpful lesson - one of a plethora you have provided............ Much appreciated.
Great Larry, what a excellent Examination of the solderless Connectors, useful when working under the Layout.
I've reused the suitcase connectors. You take a small screw driver and open cover then pry under metal piece. It takes a bit of doing, but if you rewire a section because you changed the track work why waste the connectors. I've fone it at times because i've run out of connectors and didn't want to wait to get new ones.
I really like the ones where you slide on crimped connector. This will work great for my low voltage buss I tap off for the panel LEDs. I' ll have to order some tomorrow. Thanks.
The reason they recommend against reuse is that the slot in the metal blade gets pushed open when crimped in place and when reused may not cut through the insulation or into the wire and creates an unreliable splice.
Very useful information. Thanks Larry
Great information as always! I chose to connect my bus to my feeders using barrier screw terminal blocks. Means I have to work harder to centre where the feeder wires can be clustered. Nice thing is one bus wire goes in and I have can have up to as many feeders going out as the terminal block has connections on one side. I just need to ensure the bus wire is 'jumpered' on the bus' side connections to all its connections so that it will connect to each feeder side on the opposite side of the terminal block.
I exclusively use WAGOs now, as they provide the firmest connection in the sense that noise is the lowest when you use them. Especially with stranded wire a not firm enough connection, like with a wire nut could be problematic. I also try to reduce the number of connections along the line.
Great video as always wagos are nice. As a electrician wagos are a pain in the butt if not installed right. And after so long they lose gripe as to why can light manufacture have changed connector.
hello larry its is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks friends randy
When working I was an Electrician / Electrical Technician by trade in industry, I also did some house wiring. Referring to your first lot of connectors, I would never use anything other than screw connectors for wire joins. Our voltage over here is 240V where as If i'm correct your wiring is 120V. These are probably rated higher than 240V but I would never trust them. I know that we are only looking at about 18V on the railway so that is a little different. The 3Ms are good for inserting additional branches when modifications are being done. I use the Wago connectors.
As I said in the video these suitcase type connectors are designed for use with voltages under about 34 volts so, you are right that these should not be used with anything greater than that and especially not houselhold wiring. The push-in and Wago connectors are designed for household wiring, but always check the packaging just to be sure what you’re buying.
great information Larry..watch your videos all the time...on day wish you coold index your videos..by short title.always have too look and look. never in order...but great information
Larry, I have a totally unrelated question. Maybe you could do a video on what the ramifications are of running a DC engine on a DCC track and visa versa. I ran a few DC engines on my DCC layout and the motors got hot and I think one of them blew out. It is a Bachmann Spectrum 44Ton GE that has two really small motors. The other one is a NWSL powered truck on a Athearn RDC. That one got hot. Some others make a strange sound. I don't know if this is a common question and worth a video. Thought I would ask. Thanks for the connector video. Really useful.
Somewhere in the Digitrax literature they warn that you should only run DC locos on DCC for short periods to test them as DCC power can damage the motor, especially coreless ones. The high frequency of DCC power makes them vibrate at a high frequency, thus the strange sound and causes them to overheat.
I'm looking at the Acculite vampire DCC Buss connectors. Have you come across these or get a video on them? I'm very interested in these things. They're cheap and they are reusable. Is there any way that you could do something on this? Thank you!
Look fine but much more expensive than a suitcase.
Thanks Larry for sharing.
My last purchase of 3M IDC “suitcase” connectors both channels are open all the way through. That being said, they work great, period! I had purchased the T Tap connectors, with a crimping tool (same manufacturer) and they were a pain in the butt for me. Others think they are great, I donot. The Wago connectors also worked great when I added another device in line after finishing my wiring. Amazon sells a set with multiple Wago 2, 3, and 4 connection ports.
Just opened a brand new pack I got from Amazon 3 days go and they are still closed at one end on the small side.
@@TheDCCGuy That’s interesting, I wonder what the difference is in the order / item # as I got mine from Amazon.
THANK YOU FOR VIDEO
Whats the Numbers on the Blue and Red Quick Splices that do same wire sizes?
7100 & 7200
Tin your stranded wire it will make it easier to insert your wire into the push in connector.
This is not recommended, I looked it up before trying it myself. It can interfere with insertion, grip, and can increase resistance.
@@TheDCCGuy I suppose you are correct. I use a screw gate style and and tinning helps to keep the strands from getting crushed.
Will the Wago work with the very small LED wires?
I think those wires are much smaller than the 12-24 ga range I mentioned in the video.
Great summary. Adding this to my wiring playlist
What might be a good connector to use from controller to bus; when you may want to disconnect the controller (Digitrax Zephyr Express)?
I just loosen the screws and pull the wires out or the entire terminal block is removable.
what no sparky 107107 jokes allowed lol
I was told not to use these type of connectors because they introduce a high amount of resistance. I have a yard (6 tracks) and almost 24 feet of main line (shelf layout). This is phase 1, I will be expanding this in the future. I currently have the NCE Power CAB. I will be upgrading to the Smart Booster SB5 in the future. Is the resistance from these connectors an issue? If so, is there a way to determine how many you can use before it becomes a problem? Thank you Larry for all you do! I look forward to you videos every week.
I have measured the voltage of my main bus, which has suitcase connectors for every feeder, and the voltage doesn’t drop a bit over 25’ runs. If there were significant resistance you should expect to see a drop in voltage over that much distance and with that many connectors and feeders.
@@TheDCCGuy wonderful! That’s what I was hoping. I was lamenting over how to solder everything under the layout and be able to do quality work. Thank you again.
I tried to acquire in the US from Chile the CS105 command station that you will analyze some time ago. I placed the order and after a couple of months I received an email that essentially says “Due to WI-FI regulations, we are not allowed to sell command station outside of the USA due to the many regulations we encounter in other countries.” Do you have a clearer idea of what the problem is?
Interesting, I’ll have to ask them about that. As I pointed out in the video the CS-105 has its own internal wifi base station for communicating with throttles and computers which must fun a foul of wifi regulations outside the US. I will ask whether or not they intend to pursue getting approval for international sales. I believe several European manufacturers do sell wifi equipped DCC command stations in the US so it is not impossible but probably a royal pain.
@@TheDCCGuy I would appreciate if you tell me when you know something specific about this matter. In Chile we have computers, printers, cell phones, televisions, etc. with WIFI purchased outside the country by travelers and have never presented a problem. It's a weird business
They are in the process of getting the equipment certified for international sales but that may take another 6 months. In the meantime your only option would be to purchase the unit and have it shipped to a USA address and from there have it forwarded to you.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you very much for your interest. It is precisely what I did because a relative who lives in the US then travels to Chile
I’ve used suitcase connectors for years with no problems. But I’ve always heard not to do multiple connections off one feeder. Maybe too much voltage drop with multiple connectors in a row? Comment?
That is true, only one pair of wires per suitcase. Trying to use more will deform the metal insert and give an unreliable connection.
I have set up a fairly large track layout that runs over 43 ft in a continuous loop. I can run it DC or DCC. I also have several turnouts. I can run 3 locos simultaneously. I have no bus wire just a simple one track connection. So my question is, why does the layout you discuss get so electrically complicated?
Three locos is not much of a load. During an op session it is not uncommon to run many more. Try measuring your track voltage at various points along your loop and see what happens.
@@TheDCCGuy Ok, will do. Love the channel!
The only problem with these connectors is they are hit and miss. A properly soldered connection is always better and a better conductor. Low voltage not so critical but DCC is. In the end, don't be lazy...solder those joints. By the way, don't use acid core. It can cause corrosion. If you are too lazy to solder, maybe you need to find another hobby.
As an automotive technician please for the love of god, no matter the project THROW IDC CONNECTORS IN THE TRASH. You will thank me later
It's spelled Solder not ..Sodder, just so you know
I bet you go to pieces when folks refer to potatoes as “taters”!
Why can't you solder the stranded wire before putting them into that one connector pushin connector, the wago is really nice connectors
Thank you for the tips.
I have read that you are not supposed to do that.
@@TheDCCGuy I wonder why? We are not running high voltage or amps!
I think it has something to do with the way the gripper inside works. Here’s a link to a discussion on this.
www.houzz.com/discussions/2648900/push-in-wire-connectors-stranded-wire-soldering