A perfumer's guide to cherry 🍒
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- My perfumery course: www.perfumerystudent.com/
My recommended perfumery supplies: thefragrancefoundry.com/
Download my perfumery app for free: formulair.app/
Smell my perfume creations: zur.ai/
Links mentioned in this video:
My cherry perfume (Moonlight Harvest): www.zur.ai/pages/moonlight-ha...
Purchase benzaldehyde at The Fragrance Foundry: thefragrancefoundry.co.uk/pro...
Join our community of perfume makers on discord to share tips on perfume making: / discord
Timestamps:
00:00 - Introduction
00:53 - Perfumes which contain cherry
02:19 - Anisaldehyde
03:54 - Benzaldehyde
06:27 - Veratraldehyde
07:30 - Heliotropin diethyl acetal
08:44 - Anisyl acetone
09:41 - Anisyl acetate
11:12 - Summary
Listen to the video as a podcast: anchor.fm/sam-macer
Instagram accounts:
@sam.macer - / sam.macer
@zurai.official - / zurai.official
@thefragrancefoundry - / thefragrancefoundry
Starting your own perfume brand? I host my online store with Shopify: shopify.pxf.io/jryWdn
I'd really like you to go over Tea notes. Great video :)
That would be a tricky one since I currently only have a couple of tea raw materials, but noted, if I get a couple more I’ll do it.
Would love to see this!
I have been studying the cherry note for a while, here is everything I use!
For top note:
Ethyl acetate, ethyl 2-methyl butyrate, ethyl acetoacetate, a tiny bit of ethyl butyrate, limonene, trans-2-hexenal. Those make a natural, fresh cherry top note, and I like to add some peppermint oil to land a "cherry candy/bubblegum" impression.
Lastly, of course, benzaldehyde.
For middle note:
Anisaldehyde, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, acetophenone, methyl acetophenone, a touch of eugenol, aldehydes C-14 and C-16, Verdox, delta damascone, and aurantiol.
I find the delta damascone makes a world of difference, and acetophenone is simply indispensable, albeit at less than 0,25% on the final product.
For base note:
Coumarin (at max. IFRA permited level!), Heliotropin replacer, vanilin, cinnamic alcohol, methyl cinnamate, beta ionone.
To me, coumarin at high levels lands a deep, fascinating facet to a cherry accord, making it sensual, warm and more long lasting. It also does not smell hay-like or cloying at all when paired with the other cherry materials.
Lovely, thank you for the in depth suggestions
I think it was In "A Diary of a nose", where Jean Claude Ellena also describes a cherry accord. The combination mentioned in the book was Beta Ionone, Heliotropine and Benzaldehyde for a basic cherry accord.
Can you do a video on apple and/or Iris notes?
That sounds like one of his accords. Potentially at some point.
Thank you Sam! So cool of you! I am curious about nicer soapy notes.
I have came across so many channels in RUclips, but yours is so so unique.
Thank you, what an honour
These kinds of videos are the best
Glad you like them
I mixed some drops of bitter almond essential oil on sweet almond carrier oil, (not for perfume) and interestingly, 2 almonds ended up smelling cherry, dont know why, but 10ml carrier sweet almond oil per 1drop of bitter almond essential oil, ends up with a cherry'ish smelling massage or moisturizer oil
Maybe because maraschino cherries are soaked in syrup with almond extract.
Fascinating as always, many thanks.
Many thanks!
Brilliant vid, Sam. I make some notes during your vids. Very nice and inspiring.
Thank you
Great vid Sam! 🍒
Thank you
Fascinating!
I wonder which these are referring to true cherries or just maraschino cherries? I feel like what most people think of as cherry is actually closer to almond because maraschino cherries are soaked in a syrup with imitation almond extract which is made with benzaldehyde.
very useful vid! thanks!
You're welcome!
Lovely n informative vdo as usual,thanx Sam only thing missing was quantity of ingredients just for reference point of view.Thank you once again.🎉
Since these were accords and not bases there are no quantities attached, you're free to choose.
Wonderful ❤
Hello Sam, you should try Bedoukian's Cerezoate for a black cherry top note...
Hi @Sam could you show us how to use Raspberry Keytones?
Thank you for sharing :), I already put the ones I don't have in my to buy list. If you have the opportunity, would love to see a video about raspberry, I find that one to me a more difficult note to create
Raspberry is one of my favourite smells but I also find it elusive. Maybe I’ll do a video on it sometime.
Would love if you could share your Formulair libary! Great video as always
My raw materials list is available in the discord group
Recently, I’ve been crazy about cherries and it’s extremely hard to find anything cherry….that is not for kids
I plan on starting making my own perfumes soon (found your channel because of this) and right now I’m not proud to say that I use food Flavouring to cope with my lack of options
Video came in handy, thank you very much
Glad I could help, good luck!
Hey sam, please do a video about maybe the 100 or so best ingredients to start with as a beginner, i want to build a library or raw matierials... i dont want to buy a starter kit coz i want to build an intimate relationship with my materials essentially as a beginner. Even if its just a blog but i am really struggling
Check out this video: ruclips.net/video/9Fl_LeYbLdQ/видео.htmlsi=Uqzw4_VZI2Y8w9Dl
I hope to make a new one in a month or so when the new starter kit is released to explain the raw materials in it
What about piperonyl (heliotropyl) acetate? It gives a nice slight cherry sourness, which is very important for a realistic cherry accord, at least to my nose.
Hard to source though.
I don’t have that one, I’ll have to keep an eye out
Is there a website you'd recommend for getting it in the US?
Sam, we just don't want you to get hurt or damage that perfect face in any way shape or form. Just like your amazing fragrance knowledge and great taste. Take care.
Lovely of you to say - but I need to take on challenges in life to grow. Thanks, you take care too :)
The raw material charts, I don’t understand what it means but I see you use it in your video that all the time.
Have you tried Cyclohexyl crotonate? It gives a dark fruits/cherry vibe I really like.
No I haven't but I like the other crotonates I have so I like the sound of it
Thank you.
How do you get away from the initial blast of alcohol that comes from Benzaldehyde?
where do you get your fragrance note manafacturers?
Only 1 week left to guarantee your perfume in my final USA & Canada perfume shipment for the year!! Find out more at www.zur.ai/
Hey Sam, I’ve always appreciated your content. I started getting into perfumery in the past few months, in large part because of some of your videos! Thanks. I live in the 🇺🇸; LA to be exact. Reach out if there’s a way I can help get your stuff going, out here. Happy to help in any way, if I am able. ✌🏼
@@HeyAstor Thank you for the offer, that's very kind of you! Glad you're enjoying my content, good luck with your perfumery :)
@@sammacer by getting into perfumery I mean getting a small collection started, IOW not making money but spending money. 💸💸💸😢 . Still, I am enjoying it
I want to order. Do you ship to the Philippines?
@Sammacer does your shop also makes shipments to italy as well 😀. It will be better buying from your brand ❤
It does for equipment, but not currently for the raw materials. Thank you for checking out my brand.
@@sammacer oh ok 👌 I will wait for raw materials as well ; meaby they require an different shipping methode!! But anyway I want to thank you for making it easy for us . May God bless you😀💚
Ooo can you do plum next???
Can u please create your perfumery app for android.. cuz i don't have iphone and pads
Sakura Salicylate is a fantastic mat, Sam. A total sleeper.
EDIT: Sam, Benzaldehyde is a precursor material, if I'm not mistaken. So shipping to the USA, in volume, might be a bit tricky.
Sounds lovely
I love cherry in perfumes but sadly very often it’s gone after a few minutes like in Lost Cherry by TF or Lovefest Burning Cherry by Kayali… Mandorle by Sora Dora on the other hand, that cherry is ETERNAL. I wonder what they use though, as chery is not even listed on the notes. I’m curious to try Moonlight Harvest!✨
If you do I’d love to hear your thought!
What's the difference between anisaldehyde and anisaldehyde propylene glycol acetal? I have anisaldehyde but can't find where in the world to get the other to sample. I had this fragrance oil (I know that's not perfumery) but I had a GCMS done of it as I absolutely loved the smell but it had 7.7% anisaldehyde in it so the % you could use in perfume was very low until just recently and I've been scouring the internet to find replacements for anisaldehyde and found a few so that are close now (anis nitrile is awesome) - and I discovered Para tolyl aldehyde via Harry and it smells almost exactly like benzaldehyde (which I love and could use as a perfume straight - I love that artificial smell - ha) - and it doesn't seem to be restricted so I can go a bit crazy and have fun with that for experimenting!
I got the PGA from Harry so ask him. I find it smells very similar although I prefer it slightly less and it gave me a skin rash at 10% unlike the actual anisaldehyde, no idea why even though it’s unrestricted. Good luck with your project.
Do you ship to Egypt?
I follow your posts with great enthusiasm, for me you are an example! I want to start making perfumes, I'm ready, I've spent a lot of time studying this, I feel it, it's in me! For this, I don't know what kind of authorization and legal training I need. I want to make perfumes independently, at my home. For this I have to graduate from a perfumery or chemistry school, which takes a long time and costs a lot, or making perfumes can legally be part of something else? In my country where I live, Romania, there is no independent perfumery qualification course authorized by the Ministry of Labour, what can I do? Here, the law clearly states that in order to be able to activate, the authorized natural person must have a qualification in the field of activity. To what qualification would this job of manufacturing perfumes fit?
Hi Sam. benzaldehyde DMA seems to be more IFRA friendly, i dont have the normal Benzaldehyde havent tried it (is it stronger?), but really enjoying a little OD of the DMA
I don't have the DMA unfortunately so I couldn't say
On PerfumersWorld there is written that anisaldehyde (and some other smells) has narcotic odor… What does mean narcotic odor?🙄 and can I use it in perfumes because of that?
No its just a smell descriptor often used for smells like jasmine, nothing illicit related
Thanks for this video .Someone knows how i can get aa Lollipop fragrance. I use benzaldehyde but what anymore i need to give It the sweet sense?
Try Ethyl Maltol
@@sammacer thanks so much!! your follower from Spain
Your r very comlex Your working style is very uniqe than anothers and
I learn your videos
I wached almost all your videos
I bought enough arouma chimicals
But I did'nt make very osam fragrance yet
Keep practicing and you’ll get there, perfumery is all about putting in the practice
Hello Sam, no speak English 😢 pero te felicito, mí hija tiene el nombre de tu marca, así como ella es muy buena , tu marca también , y mis deseos desde Argentina, para que te vaya muy bien ,,
That’s lovely to hear - I send my best wishes to you and your daughter
Do your company not ship to EU (More specifically Denmark)?
Nice video btw! lol :D
The Fragrance Foundry does ship equipment, however I can’t ship perfumes with Zurai since they’re flammable. I hope to find a solution in 2024
Thanks
@@sammacer okay, great to hear. I'll buy the discovery set first thing when it's possible :D
It’s hard buying perfume I can’t smell for me, maybe I can chance it
I would recommend getting samples about anything you’re unsure of
god your gorgeous
Lovely of you to say
Talk about terpenes! ❤🎉
Check out this video I made: ruclips.net/video/vOzil-RPU7Y/видео.htmlsi=1ZPq3QnsfJFiuGNO
You probably swapped acetate and acetone structural images
That’s sounds like something I’d accidentally do while trying to get my edit finished one evening 😅
Aww what happen to your eyelid. I hope you are doing ok.
Don’t worry, I just tried out sparring in my boxing classes for the first time, it’s not a big deal, thanks for checking up on me
@sammacer hell yeah brother! keep at it!
Ok great to hear, keep up the good work. And safe boxing, lol
I noticed too. Glad you are okay Sam
anisaldehyde smells like cherry, marzipan, hay ? ! To me anisaldehyde smells like anise. lol
It does to me but people’s noses are different, smell is subjective
How the other guy’s worse off than your eye
No the other guy was much better than me
Hi Sam. You’re cute. I hate Cherry and most fruit notes, but I watched for the cute
Haha thanks
Bro got punched
Tis what happened
@sammacer you were wearing headgear right? Looks like a headgear bruise.
@@ModernBladesmith yes I was, that would make sense
Are you okay? Just asking since your eye area looks blemished.
Yes I’m fine thank you, I just tried out sparring in my boxing classes.
Not gonna lie It makes me sad whenever someone who would consider their own work to be art (in this case perfumery) use AI to this extent
It genuinely feels like you dont treat creative process with due respect at this point especially since you yourself try to monetise this passion as do the artist whose work is being taken by computization
Images on the site are so obviously generated
I don’t share your opinion on that. Maybe it’s because I come from a computer science background. But I see AI as a tool for artists to provide building blocks and expedite their creation. My two drawings for the front of my perfume boxes took about 30 hours each and didn’t reach the end result I would have liked. With AI for the new images I spent a lot of time refining the images to tell the stories in my head in more vivid detail; I still used my creativity to guide those images and weave them into a complete story. It would take me years to learn to produce art of that quality, meaning without it I wouldn’t be able to realise my creative vision without money behind me. I would also like to commission real artists for my art in the future if I can ever afford to do so.