I totally agree. I can only guess at the cause, but I think the following negatively affects the score: 1: He is not American 2: He does not fill the entire video with monotonous muttering 3: He is not out for ego worship 4: His wife is not used as a hidden seductress 5: He is not a member of a club that constantly promotes each other 6: He does not want to be commercial at all 7: He makes his own quite special choices regarding the background music 8: He uses an AI voice I love that voice because it's the first English-speaking voice that I, as a German, can always understand word for word without any effort.
Your projects and contents are an adventure unto themselves, just by viewing. Specially with the musical scores. Bravo on yet another successful project.
I always enjoy seeing when you put the tiny tool grinder to work! It looks like such a useful tool for its size! I’m definitely keeping your designs in mind when I start getting my small shop together
That angle iron is of course quite rigid for 10 mm thick material, but that angle was definitely not 90 degrees, and on top of that there was a very heavy radius on the inside. I only got that part square and aligned on all sides and milled away that radius after a lot of effort, because I couldn't get to it directly with my mill. Clamping was a nightmare. If I had to do it over, I would probably use somewhat thicker material (10 vertical, 15 mm horizontal) and simply bolt these two pieces of flat bar together at 90 degrees. Then I would have easily made both pieces separately accurately square and to size, and connected them with three staggered Allen head bolts. If the angle was not exactly 90 degrees after bolting the parts together, that would be easy to fix. If that 15 mm thick bottom was a problem, or just ugly to see, I could mill away material from the bottom to make it thinner, leaving the whole 15 mm thickness at the backside.
Is there a particular reason why you're holding the handle there at 19:23? Are you worried about movement on the Y axis? Also nice shirt you're wearing there. And thanks for the video!
@@bastian6173 You know.... Most of the work goes into thinking. In designing a device in your head. You can work on that every day, even without a shop.
@@Michel-Uphoff That's a good reminder. Thanks for saying that. It means I can make my parts wherever I am... in my head. I recently got a pd 250 and some while ago an ff 250 bl from Proxxon. They are small good machines. And I make small parts, some of which steel but it's these big projects that scare and intimidate me. I'll just take it step by step. Thanks! I'm so looking forward to the next video of this series
Nice video as usual... and nice progress. Just... is it part 5 or part 6 :) V in the description, VI in the opening scene. Just joking, and picky as usual... common slip when people do multipart clips.
I'm looking for some tips... I got the BFB 2000 mill frame with a small 100W proxxon mill (+adapter) on it and a wabeco XY table. The damn thing brakes carbide endmills verry verry easy (too easy), I'm trying to make some cheap T nuts to in on my tables (the wabeco and proxxon kt70) so a edge cut of 0.1 and a depth of 3-5mm. and a speed more like 1cm / minute verry slow at this speeds and cuts the mill has a decent sound, does not whine, if i go deeper it goes crazy nosy. I use 3mm carbide endmills from proxxon. Can I improve? Or I just spend 500e on a turd? Thank you for reading. :)
First of all I would try to determine all the backlash: How much does the XY table have? Can you eliminate it? I suppose you only do regular milling, never climb milling? Then the same for the column. Also clamp a rod in the proxxon and see how much it can tilt. Furthermore you could use a dial indicator to measure how much a rod clamped in that proxon thing can move with a load of say 10 kg. In this way I would systematically try to track down all sources of error, and see if I can eliminate the most important ones.
@@Michel-Uphoff Well they are basically zero as I lock the axes, unlocked I got sub milimeter on Z and Y, and on X well huge like 4mm, but I allway put presure on X when I cut. Is 0.1 in steel to much? for this kind of a tool? I'm thinking o change the table with the chinese one..... (and make it better with ball bering screws )
@@vladnickul Sub mm backlash? 0.5 mm for instance? If you cannot eliminate that, certainly your small endmills will snap. That crazy noise is most likely due to a combination of backlash/play (how is the spindle bearing?) and an excess of flexibility in a number of machine parts. At what rpm do you mill with those 3 mm end mills?
@@Michel-Uphoff thank you for answering. Sounds about right 0.5 it varies ... on direction... (the Z has when I engage the spring less the O.1 , i cannot measure above that) but it verry milited in use lets say 1cm (rondom number) for what I want to work on its more the enoght, The spinde is new- a handheld model on 220v not the one with the metal nose. I see now that it has only 1 bearing... Maybe I ask from it to much. I have tried all the speed form 5000-20.000 I found to be the best be around 11000-18000 (I am gadering parts to make a spindle from a er20 shaft)... Now I dismantle it completly- looking to make some measurments and fill what I can with epoxy concrete and try again... -and change the gibs with nice brass ones. I really apreciate your answers even thou it was not good news :)) .
How one does that, I don't know. I doubt that it is really done thoroughly with most brands. My approach was partly based on practice (I have experience with a few mini mills and know their weak (literally) spots. For instance the column is always made too flexible for my liking by brands such as Proxxon. The resistance to torsion and bending of those columns is easy to calculate. I made sure that my column is much stronger than with the other micro mills. As an example, some results: Bending of column under a point load of 10 kg at a distance of 250 mm from the base: Proxxon UFE / MB400: 330 µm Proxxon FF 230 and 250: 60 µm Proxxon FF/500: 9 µm (mini mill) This micro mill: 10 µm
Actualy.. not so hard... You need just one coledge exam to make calculation 😄 You need to calculate/get data for: moment of intertia of the column profile in desired direction (depend on the profile shape) modulus of elasticity of used material lenght of the column some expected load (assuming that load is on the end of the column, or worst possible case) Formula for displacement at the end of the column: (F*L^3)/(3E*I) - F-force, L- lenght of the column, E-modulus of elasticity, I-moment of intertia (if I mised something.. sory.. it was 40+ years ago when I pass this exam, and I did not calculate something like this "manualy" for very long time). or... make a model in some CAD software, define materials, loads, run analysis and you will get the expected bending or... use some online calculator, for example google search for "calcualte bending of the console", will return few, but usualy they will do calculation only for simple profiles, like sqare, rectangular, round.
@@bmalovic With that "I don't know" I meant that I don't know how and if others calculate the rigidity of their products. I know the calculations you refer to, and I have applied them for a calculation of the effects of an epoxy concrete filling of my milling column, see this video: ruclips.net/video/EBut2Zxv2FU/видео.htmlsi=2ZQRIAvh9xpS4hPW&t=113
@@Michel-Uphoff Oh... my post was answer to @sigmatechnica's question. I asumed that you know how to do it (watching the way you aproach your projects, I get to conclusion that you have engeneering education).
Strange.. Last night I added ckomment, and I can see it on pc, but not on android. Update.. After I added this one.. it appeard. Some caching issues probably
Fantastic build! Your tool grinder, bandsaw, and now this are all amazing! thanks for uploading all of this for the community knowledge base!
I'm glad you appreciate my little machines 😊
I think your videos might be some of the most underappreciated in the machining youtube space
Michel is doing amazing work =)
I totally agree. I can only guess at the cause, but I think the following negatively affects the score:
1: He is not American
2: He does not fill the entire video with monotonous muttering
3: He is not out for ego worship
4: His wife is not used as a hidden seductress
5: He is not a member of a club that constantly promotes each other
6: He does not want to be commercial at all
7: He makes his own quite special choices regarding the background music
8: He uses an AI voice
I love that voice because it's the first English-speaking voice that I, as a German, can always understand word for word without any effort.
@Trainwreck1123 Thank you for this compliment.
Your projects and contents are an adventure unto themselves, just by viewing. Specially with the musical scores. Bravo on yet another successful project.
Excellent! Very nice build sir.
I always enjoy seeing when you put the tiny tool grinder to work! It looks like such a useful tool for its size! I’m definitely keeping your designs in mind when I start getting my small shop together
Thanks. I also think it's a nice little machine.
Excellent work as usual. Looking forward to seeing it in action!
Me too 😁
Immediate thumbs up! I've been waiting for the next video!
Wow, thats one video! Wow excellent
Awesome job! 👍
superb !! best regards Steve
Wow. Very nice work sir
A truly brilliant project!
Compliments to the author. 👍
And thank you for the compliments
@@Michel-Uphoff I look forward to the continuation… 😅👍
Dear Michel, looking forward to the first chips! Could you elaberate how otherwise you would make the motor mount other than using the iron angle?
That angle iron is of course quite rigid for 10 mm thick material, but that angle was definitely not 90 degrees, and on top of that there was a very heavy radius on the inside. I only got that part square and aligned on all sides and milled away that radius after a lot of effort, because I couldn't get to it directly with my mill. Clamping was a nightmare.
If I had to do it over, I would probably use somewhat thicker material (10 vertical, 15 mm horizontal) and simply bolt these two pieces of flat bar together at 90 degrees. Then I would have easily made both pieces separately accurately square and to size, and connected them with three staggered Allen head bolts. If the angle was not exactly 90 degrees after bolting the parts together, that would be easy to fix. If that 15 mm thick bottom was a problem, or just ugly to see, I could mill away material from the bottom to make it thinner, leaving the whole 15 mm thickness at the backside.
Michel, another great video & another step closer to your final result, Bravo!!
Hi Colin!
Thanks 😊
high quality work !!
Thanks!
Really cool project
Again really nice work Michel! Do you plan to use some rust protection? Blacken it or? Curious. Best! Job
Hi Job! Thanks!
Yes, there wil be some blackening/blueing. I still have to decide which parts those will be.
Is there a particular reason why you're holding the handle there at 19:23? Are you worried about movement on the Y axis? Also nice shirt you're wearing there. And thanks for the video!
He does have some pretty cool shirts! Not quite as good as the guy from "curious droid" but very close 😁.
No reason at all. I guess my hand was just resting there. 🙂
@@Michel-Uphoff Ok, I see. Thanks for your reply. I'm learning all the basics from you. Maybe in a few years, I can build something like this!
@@bastian6173 You know.... Most of the work goes into thinking. In designing a device in your head. You can work on that every day, even without a shop.
@@Michel-Uphoff That's a good reminder. Thanks for saying that. It means I can make my parts wherever I am... in my head. I recently got a pd 250 and some while ago an ff 250 bl from Proxxon. They are small good machines. And I make small parts, some of which steel but it's these big projects that scare and intimidate me. I'll just take it step by step.
Thanks! I'm so looking forward to the next video of this series
Thanks! 👍💪✌
Nice video as usual... and nice progress.
Just... is it part 5 or part 6 :)
V in the description, VI in the opening scene.
Just joking, and picky as usual... common slip when people do multipart clips.
I'm looking for some tips...
I got the BFB 2000 mill frame with a small 100W proxxon mill (+adapter) on it and a wabeco XY table.
The damn thing brakes carbide endmills verry verry easy (too easy), I'm trying to make some cheap T nuts to in on my tables (the wabeco and proxxon kt70) so a edge cut of 0.1 and a depth of 3-5mm. and a speed more like 1cm / minute verry slow at this speeds and cuts the mill has a decent sound, does not whine, if i go deeper it goes crazy nosy.
I use 3mm carbide endmills from proxxon.
Can I improve? Or I just spend 500e on a turd?
Thank you for reading. :)
First of all I would try to determine all the backlash:
How much does the XY table have? Can you eliminate it?
I suppose you only do regular milling, never climb milling?
Then the same for the column. Also clamp a rod in the proxxon and see how much it can tilt. Furthermore you could use a dial indicator to measure how much a rod clamped in that proxon thing can move with a load of say 10 kg.
In this way I would systematically try to track down all sources of error, and see if I can eliminate the most important ones.
@@Michel-Uphoff Well they are basically zero as I lock the axes, unlocked I got sub milimeter on Z and Y, and on X well huge like 4mm, but I allway put presure on X when I cut.
Is 0.1 in steel to much? for this kind of a tool?
I'm thinking o change the table with the chinese one..... (and make it better with ball bering screws )
@@vladnickul Sub mm backlash? 0.5 mm for instance?
If you cannot eliminate that, certainly your small endmills will snap.
That crazy noise is most likely due to a combination of backlash/play (how is the spindle bearing?) and an excess of flexibility in a number of machine parts. At what rpm do you mill with those 3 mm end mills?
@@Michel-Uphoff thank you for answering.
Sounds about right 0.5 it varies ... on direction... (the Z has when I engage the spring less the O.1 , i cannot measure above that) but it verry milited in use lets say 1cm (rondom number) for what I want to work on its more the enoght,
The spinde is new- a handheld model on 220v not the one with the metal nose. I see now that it has only 1 bearing... Maybe I ask from it to much. I have tried all the speed form 5000-20.000 I found to be the best be around 11000-18000
(I am gadering parts to make a spindle from a er20 shaft)...
Now I dismantle it completly- looking to make some measurments and fill what I can with epoxy concrete and try again... -and change the gibs with nice brass ones.
I really apreciate your answers even thou it was not good news :)) .
How done one calculate what size of z axis collumn is required in a design like this?
How one does that, I don't know. I doubt that it is really done thoroughly with most brands.
My approach was partly based on practice (I have experience with a few mini mills and know their weak (literally) spots. For instance the column is always made too flexible for my liking by brands such as Proxxon. The resistance to torsion and bending of those columns is easy to calculate. I made sure that my column is much stronger than with the other micro mills. As an example, some results:
Bending of column under a point load of 10 kg at a distance of 250 mm from the base:
Proxxon UFE / MB400: 330 µm
Proxxon FF 230 and 250: 60 µm
Proxxon FF/500: 9 µm (mini mill)
This micro mill: 10 µm
Actualy.. not so hard...
You need just one coledge exam to make calculation 😄
You need to calculate/get data for:
moment of intertia of the column profile in desired direction (depend on the profile shape)
modulus of elasticity of used material
lenght of the column
some expected load (assuming that load is on the end of the column, or worst possible case)
Formula for displacement at the end of the column: (F*L^3)/(3E*I) - F-force, L- lenght of the column, E-modulus of elasticity, I-moment of intertia (if I mised something.. sory.. it was 40+ years ago when I pass this exam, and I did not calculate something like this "manualy" for very long time).
or... make a model in some CAD software, define materials, loads, run analysis and you will get the expected bending
or... use some online calculator, for example google search for "calcualte bending of the console", will return few, but usualy they will do calculation only for simple profiles, like sqare, rectangular, round.
@@bmalovic With that "I don't know" I meant that I don't know how and if others calculate the rigidity of their products. I know the calculations you refer to, and I have applied them for a calculation of the effects of an epoxy concrete filling of my milling column, see this video: ruclips.net/video/EBut2Zxv2FU/видео.htmlsi=2ZQRIAvh9xpS4hPW&t=113
@@Michel-Uphoff Oh... my post was answer to @sigmatechnica's question.
I asumed that you know how to do it (watching the way you aproach your projects, I get to conclusion that you have engeneering education).
Strange..
Last night I added ckomment, and I can see it on pc, but not on android.
Update..
After I added this one.. it appeard.
Some caching issues probably