Great video and guide. I like how you mention all these things DVO told you that are not being done in the maintenance guide, the bladder greasing, the white ring you have to cut off.. I feel 110% more confident with your video than any video they have released. Which is none for the topaz. I've been getting all the parts to get this done and noticed like you that you need more then one kit to rebuild it. Especially since the bladder seems to be shit and goes all limp after a while in use.. I have a new topaz t3 on my ripmo and after not even 2 months, I swear the bladder has let air into the system. Thanks again ! Will be watching your video again and again while rebuilding.
Hey glad to hear it's helpful! I wasn't aware of the bladder's reputation for turning to poo. Maybe that was the cause for the redesign DVO told me about. Honestly my shock was way overdue for a service, and after three rides I can say it feels great, just like it did new. After you do one full rebuild you realize it's pretty darn easy and you'll be more willing to do it again come service time. ... Also at about five or six bucks a piece it might be something worth swapping out every now and then.
Thanks so much for posting this tutorial. I just successfully rebuilt my topaz last night thanks to you. Couple of things for anyone wanting to attempt this. One, I think you can just remove the damper shaft by using an 11mm wrench as you do to reinstall it in step 54. It's much easier than trying to clamp the damper shaft. Second, the air piston block was different in my topaz. It had a much beefier head, and an 18mm wrench was too small. Additionally, this revised version of the piston has a 27NM torque stamping. Good luck to anyone that is willing to give this a try. Make sure you are very organized with the o-rings per the tutorial. Had I not laid them out as suggested, I would have misplaced or confused many of them during reassembly
@Derek Kumagai - Thanks for noting the differences you encountered with your rebuild. 27nm is much tighter than mine was! I think someone else mentioned that they removed the damper shaft by using a wrench instead of a vise. I think the only problem you might encounter is that nut coming loose, which you don't want to happen because it holds your shim stack in place. That said, I bet it's held together with red loctite and you might have to hit it with a torch to loosen it up (if you were going to tune your shock), so you're probably ok. I'm glad you experienced the satisfying feeling of rebuilding this thing yourself!
Glad to hear! The only thing I'd add is while bleeding the damper you want to cycle the shock as few times as possible. Ronnie at DVO said if you cycle it more than 10 times you risk a leak at the bladder. Not sure if he meant you add air into the system or you lose fluid into the bladder (or both). It should only take 4-5 plunges I think.
Great video. This is what DVO should have provided. I am scared to do my own shock service, but after a million dollar service quote from my LBS and watching your video, i ordered the parts. Wish me luck!
You can totally do this one! I think I broke this up over a couple of days, but took me about 2 hours, and that was with running a camera. Laying out all the parts before reassembly really helped. I called DVO 2-3 times before I started and at least once or twice during the service, but I think I included all that info in the video. I'd wish you luck, but you won't need it. 🙂
@@TheSaucyMTBr Ok, man, I did it! I redressed my own shock! I never would have attempted this myself in a million years until I watched your video. Thanks so much! One or two small notes: the reservoir "flats" don't line up for me like yours did. Also, the guys at DVO told me I didn't need to use the metal washer between the damper and the housing, which is good, since I bent it in a vise accidentally. Finally, I was having lots of trouble clamping the damper shaft tightly enough to unscrew the housing. Instead, I held the housing in one hand and used a wrench on the nut under the shim stack and loosened the damper shaft from the housing that way. That nut (under the shim stack) was STUCK on there. Thanks again for the GREAT video!
@@joewest6681 good job man! Also, thanks for noting your experiences that differed from mine. I bet that nut on the damper shaft has loctite on it. I might try to do a compression/damper tune and I'll have to figure out how to get that thing off.
Cool Video, regarding the Tools. I haven´t got a valve puller and a valve removal kit. So basically I used a sturdier pincette cut the ends and so I removed the valve core. For the Valve puller I used an old plastic valve cap and pliers to move the bladder unit up and down. The valve cap prevented the unit from damage. I don´t understand why the shaft is clamped on metal. If you you tighten the vice to much -> scratches .... if you don´t use enough force it rotates in the vice -> scratches .... I build my own shaft holder out of 3d printed tpu plastic which can rotate just fine in the vice without scratches. Then I can adjust the force till it won´t move. ( I made the clamping area also bigger). I don´t understand why it is no standard part. I used these brass clamps for a reverb before and scratched the shaft, then I was pissed of and build my own ones.
Thanks for the video. Very clear. I would have loved to see a better reference to which ring was used, but it wasn't too hard too figure it out. DVO should do such video's in my opinion.. so thanks again. Only crappy part is that i havn't been able to replace the bladder which isn't available somehow. Hope to replace that as my bladder pressure is somewhat unstable before/after getting it on pressure.
Really straight forward thanks! I was mostly looking for 35:12 to show how bladder bleeding differs from pistons. That's how I thought it would go, thanks for confirming. No tapping on the shock while cycling to free straggler bubbles?
I don't think tapping is necessary. Ronnie at DVO said you can overdo it, and didn't recommend cycling more than 10 times. I pushed and pulled on the plunger of the syringe to make cycling a little easier, but you have to be careful not to over pressurize the bladder. Do it just enough to help the fluid move along.
Amazing video! Thank you so much!! Reading the dvo guide I felt somewhat confident but pretty nervous, I've only ever done lower leg stuff on a fork. So great to see all the tips and tricks in addition to dvo instructions. My shock is way over due, technically one year would have been last June and it's like 2000+ miles. Shock still working awesome though so that's cool. Since this is a great community notes, for what it's worth DVO told me not to use Rockshox, maxima, or WPL for oil but did recommend fox, finish line, motorex, motul, goldspectro, or "any quality shock oil". Any idea why rockshox or maxima wouldn't work? Pretty sure WPL is super eco friendly so I could see the problem there at least. Thanks again! Saving this video for when it's time.
Hey, I'm glad it's helpful! Sounds like the list of not-to-use fluids has grown a little. When I talked to them they said Rockshocx makes their seals swell over time. They did tell me that the Rockshox Plush fluid was good to use however. As for Maxima, my understanding is that they make the standard rockshox fluid. They are one in the same.
@@blazinmtbco719 I read that dvo liked WPL. I also read that they say not to use it. 😂 Probably best just to call up DVO and ask him what fluids they're recommending today.
Very good video helped me a lot. I have a Topaz T3. I did a service. now my problem i can't balance the positive-negative chamber! What am I doing wrong or is there a trick. Thank you in advance for your help
Make sure you didn't cover the port on the air can with slick honey. Drop your air sleeve and take a look. I did that once and just blew it out with my mouth. I hope slick honey isn't terribly toxic. 🙂
I don't see why it wouldn't work great. You might adjust the volume spacers and damper pressure slightly due to the extra weight, or a custom tune might be necessary, but this shock is pretty tunable out of the box. Most riders are like what 175lbs? Ebikes add another 30lbs or so? I'm 205-210 and it works great on a traditional mountain bike.
Thanks great video just finished my first full service and the shock is not responding very well. It’s very soft adding air pressure is not making it any more harder. What did I do wrong?
Great video. As all have said, very confidence inspiring. Just recently built a bike which came with a Topaz3. The shock I was told only had under 10 rides, so would not think requires a service, but after set up and a few rides have noticed the air pressure in the main chamber and the bladder not holding. Thinking to do a full service, but any tips on trouble shooting?
Hmm... You will lose pressure just by attaching a pump as the chamber will equalize with the hose of the pump. If it's a fairly new shock, it is strange that you would lose pressure in both the air can and the diaper bladder. Honestly, my best advice for troubleshooting something like that, as there are so many possibilities, is to call dvo and talk to Ronnie. Good luck, and if you do have to take it apart, it really isn't that hard.
@@TheSaucyMTBr okay thanks. It was quite a drop in pressure, was set to 130-140, but checked after a big DH day, was at 80-90. Had another thought too. Am fairly new to full sus, coming from HT. I have been running the shock in medium mode and had a big DH day the day before I noted the pressure loss. Wondering if there is some sort of internal emergency function which will release air under heavy impact in the medium or firm mode. But I'll follow up with DVO directly. Had a ride today and tested the pressure throughout the ride in the main chamber held without issue.
@@dennishorvat1552 that pressure drop sounds reasonable. It will be way more than just five PSI. You might notice 5 PSI drop on your forks after hooking up your pump, but they hold more air volume and less pressure as well. Also, just keep in mind when you're exercising your shock a lot it will get hot, which will increase your air pressure. By how much, I don't know, but just be aware is that when measuring (maybe let it cool first?).
Great video and work to follow up on all the nuances for getting this job done. After one service for a slurpee shock I just had catastrophic rebound damper control failure - outer o-ring for the rebound control circuit appears to have been forced out of shock or was folded on install and failed. Either way I can see a portion of o-ring outside the rebound control circuit and under the rebound control djustment knob. Wonder if the circuit can be pulled without pulling the internal dampening rod? I would assume that the rod, when tightened seats against the rebound control circuit and holds the rebound circuit somewhat in place and the set screw at back ensures the circuit doesn't move? Thoughts?
I think your assumptions about the retention of the rebound knob assembly are accurate. The long green rebound needle that drops in the skinny damper shaft has a white washer on either end, and I think that when you tighten down the damper shaft you are slightly crushing those washers and forming a seal. I think the set screw just helps hold the damper knob on place, but you can't remove the damper knob assembly without unscrewing that damper shaft. A bit unfortunate, but I think you'll have to disassemble the shock to fix it.
Same situation here with this oring. Do you have an idea what are the dimensions of those orings ? I have to replece it. No way to get DVO service kit - out of stock. I need replacement for those orings but I have to know dimemnsions. I haven't disassembled mine Topaz yet. Waiting for vise clamps.
What is the type of fitting/thread needed for the serynge bleeder to connect on the shock port ? I can't find on dvo manual info about this. It's not as a normal as pump brake port thank you. Nice video
It's the bleed kit used for a Rockshox Reverb. I have a part number in the description, but I bought a generic one off of eBay. I go into some detail at the end of the video about it
Fantastic video, but I'm curious, does the main body need to be stripped down before removing the bladder like you did here, or was it just because you were doing it all anyway? I think I need to replace my bladder but everything else it fine, so do t want to tempt fate by opening thighs that don't need to be opened!
You'll need to take the air can off so you can properly bleed the system. You won't be able to cycle the shock by hand with the air can on. Luckily, it screws off easily even without taking the outer sleeve off the can.
If you've got spare o-rings, you've done it right. 🙂 The t3 air is basically a rebranded SR suntour triair with a redesigned damper. The service kits are compatible, so you'll have unused o-rings left over.
Hello, great video! My seal under rebound knob blown up somehow. On your video I see that two last seals (the nearests ones to the dial knob) on rebound shaft looks the same. There is a chance to put here diameters of those seals ? There is no chance to buy whole DVO set - out of stock everywhere - I need a replacment of those seals. Thank you in advance !
Hey Michal, unfortunately I don't have the dimensions of those o-rings. I would recommend calling or emailing DVO Suspension. They might have some kits in stock, but if not they probably have a bulk supply of o-rings that they can pull from. If not, they can tell you what type and size of o-ring to use and you can probably find them online.
@@TheSaucyMTBr Thx ! Rght now I'm stuck on part when we remove damper seal head, for unknown reasons I cant unscrew it :( I put here much more power than you on this video, but still can't move it :(
Remove all the orings and plastic parts, put the seal head into the boiling water for couple of minutes, then try to unscrew it. The heating should crack the loctite on the threads.
I noticed you use a bleed syringe with the plunger attached, while the DVO instructions have the plunger out. Why did you choose to go that route? Also, looking at the bleed procedure (step 72 of the DVO PDF), I don't understand how they can open the bleed port with the shock inverted, compression lever open, and stanchion full of oil without the oil draining out through the reservoir (a problem that you seem to avoid by keeping the lever closed). Do you think this is just a typo? It's funny because I've serviced two Topaz in the past and this never occurred to me, but I'm running into this issue with the one I have in the stand right now, which is what led me to your video. Thanks in advance.
A good observation about the plunger. Honestly, I don't know why I left it in the syringe. I will say that I was using version 2 of the manual and they are now up to version 3, so they did change a few steps. Ronnie did tell me that it needed an update. It could be that version 2 showed the syringe with the plunger installed or maybe I made an assumption. Or, maybe it made sense to leave it in because yes, if there is no plunger installed you will start losing fluid when you open the compression switch. That said, the compression switch should be closed when you open the bleed port to install the syringe. If you choose not to use the plunger, and there is fluid in the syringe, you'll still be ok when you open the switch to install the bladder, as long as you're quick. Setting things up is easier if the plunger is installed, but bleeding is harder as you have to pull/push the plunger as you cycle the shock. You don't want the shock to force the plunger out as it moves fluid. If I were to do it again, id do it without the plunger. I think you have the idea of how is all works, indicated by your question, so I think your inclinations are correct. Close the compression switch when you install the syringe. Open the switch as you insert the bladder, and maybe even when it is mostly inserted. You might benefit from a 3rd hand or maybe tie up the syringe so it didn't tip over. Let me know how it goes!
@@TheSaucyMTBr to clarify, open the switch just long enough to install the bladder so you don't lose excess fluid (the idea being that once the bladder occludes the reservoir no more fluid will be lost). I don't remember how I kept the syringe from spilling last time!
@@jshemuel exactly. In my video I can't even get the bladder in because I had my syringe clamp closed. The same concept applies with the switch. Worst case, you just open the shock back up, add more fluid, and try again. Btw, I wouldn't be able to remember how I did half of this process is I didn't record it. 😉
@@TheSaucyMTBr Thanks. Finished it up today without incident. One tip that DVO should really include in the manual is to open up the rebound all the way, which makes it a helluva lot easier to cycle during the bleed.
@@jshemuel good to hear you finished the job. Also, a good point about the rebound. I do recall it was tough for me cycling the shock. Thanks for feeding that back.
Sadly, I'm not experienced enough to say. If you use too heavy a weight, then you'll end up with more friction inside your shock, which only creates heat and increases pressure in your air can. Basically your shock will become stiffer as you ride. Try emailing DVO. And greetings from America!
Thanks for the super thorough video! By the looks of it, all of the o- rings, on the damper side at least, looked fine, in good shape- did you notice any wear? I ordered the kit, but looks to me I can try and keep all those o rings in place, put a new bladder and bleed the shock. Did I miss any worn out parts? Thanks again!
I actually saw no worn o-rings or anything out of place other than the o-ring that was wrapped over the washer at time 4:44, and that actually looked ok structurally. I suppose o-rings can start leaking when they break down a little, and might not visually look bad. If you're in there and you have the kit you may as well replace them. Then again, I've heard the bladder goes out faster than the o-rings. Also, I've recently learned that SR Suntour is the manufacturer for DVO and a lot of parts are are shared between the topaz T3 Air and the Tri Air. That said, the air can kit is like half the price of the DVO one and looks to be identical: www.srsuntour.us/products/triair-seal-kit
@@TheSaucyMTBr thanks man! Yes, the tri air looks identical (minus the bladder/ ifp). All those o-rings look like a nightmare to manage. I’ll give it a try. I did my Jade (coil), it was fairly easy.
@@TheSaucyMTBr thanks again. I started rebuilding the damper, and when placing the needle back I messed something up and ruined one of the white plastic rings. Is there a difference between those 2- the one going to the rebound eyelet and the other to the tip of the needle? I also kinda messed up one of the needle tips- I’m not even sure if that would make any difference though.
@@sica4873 I think the 2 white rings are the same. The damper kit comes with replacements right? I'd just reuse one of the old ones if you've damaged one. I do recall when I initially tightened down the set screw on the damper assembly, the entire assembly rotated and the white washer was no longer aligned correctly and I had to rotate it back before assembly. Also, in the video I drop the needle, with the white ring facing down, back into the black shaft (time 23:41), which I later wondered if that ring could have fallen lose in the process and gotten ruined when I put it all back together. I think I was ok in this instance, but next time I'll drop the black shaft over the needled to be sure it stays in place. If you're worried about your needle, DVO probably has spares to sell you, but it's not listed on their website. If you just dinged the end, I bet it's probably ok. Let me know how it turns out!
Awesome video! That Red Line fluid has some of the lowest cSt of any 2.5wt out there. Did you notice any difference in damping compared to stock? Thank you!
I knew Red Line had the best numbers, but I chose it because it's what DirtLabs handed me when I walked in and asked for 2.5wt fluid. I've only got 2 rides on the rebuilt shock, and they were short downhill runs followed by longer climbs to the top, plus it was chilly outside, so there really wasn't much time to get the shock heated up. Also, this was my first time on the bike in 3 months, so I was focused on not crashing and getting used to jumps again. I never though about the shock. It works and felt good enough not to distract me. After a day at Winter Park this summer I might have a better answer for you. But also, I think ANY fluid in a freshly rebuilt shock is going to work better. It's like tire impressions, any new tire will have better grip than your old ones. So the only way to really get a good comparison is to do a few runs, change fluid, and do the same runs again. ...This might make for a good experiment/video this summer; comparing shock fluids back to back. Check back mid July and I might have an opinion for you! :)
Hey ChainNoob, do you know how to increase shaft length? I ask because my current Topaz is a 210x50, but I have read that the stroke can be increased by 5mm. Do you know anything about this? Thanks!
Hey David, yes, the 210x50 topaz can be increased to a 55mm stroke. Just open the air can like I did in the early steps of the video and you'll see a 5mm spacer that slips on the damper shaft. Should be 'C' shaped. Look at the spare parts page on DVO's website for a part called "travel spacer topaz" to see what it looks like.
hey man! quick question i do have a topaz and the service center change all of the seals and bladder but i exp... travel drop from 160mm to 130ish something did you exp that also?? thanks man
I had no issues with reduced travel. Check the bladder and air can pressure and make sure they are in range. Next drop the air sleeve and make sure the little holes on the positive and negative chamber are not full of grease. Also, if you have volume spacers installed, make sure they aren't covering the holes. Finally, some of their shocks can be fitted with a travel reducing spacer. Unscrew the air can and pull it down, and see if you have any installed. They would be pressed up near the top of the bladder and rebound assembly (the part the air can screws into). But before you take any of that out, just make sure that they aren't supposed to be in there! You should be able to check all of that in 10 or 15 minutes. If none of that fixes the problem, I'd take it back to the shop. Who did the service for you? The only internal thing I can think of that might cause this is the rebound knob not being installed properly. If that isn't aligned with the rebound needle, then the flow of suspension fluid could be blocked, and in effect acting like the compression knob is somewhere between pedal and closed. After thinking about it for a few minutes, that sounds like a likely culprit. I show in good detail how to make that alignment properly, and I even had to do it a couple of times because when I tighten down the set screw it rotated the rebound assembly. Take a look at that so you understand what I'm talking about, and have your shop take a look at it. Let me know what you find, I'm curious what was the cause of this conundrum.
Just recently i notice that.. after the service center change the seals and bladder.. i rode my bike in our local trail and it was rough.. main canister heats up and that’s the reason why my shock suddenly drop it’s travel.. and i try to cool the shock gradually the travel came back.. back going back to the exit of the trail is far so i rode again and boom travel drops..
@@makeitrandom3067 Very interesting. I wonder if the shop used a heavier suspension fluid than what dvo recommends. I found this article that corroborates your findings. One of the comments made me think that your suspension fluid could be too thick and causing excessive friction and heat. bikerumor.com/2018/10/25/suspension-tech-how-do-temperature-changes-affect-suspension-performance/
It's the exact same except for the piggyback portion of the damper. Suntour uses an internal floating piston, and I don't have the specs for that. Other than that, it's the same service kit for the air can and the damper knob. See if you can get the service kit for the damper along with the spec from suntour.
It's the same as the RockShox Remote Bleed Kit. I've listed the part number in the description, but in the video I use a generic one I got off of ebay.
...I never considered it like that. This changes everything. 😉 Seriously, I've been hearing that for like 15 years. Maybe there's some truth to it. 😆 Also, my comments are typically filled with sarcasm. seriously, no offense was taken.
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Dude! This is awesome! I'd never get that thing back together in a million years
Reading the service manual 20 times and calling DVO four or five times before I started definitely helped. :-)
I love the real-time close-ups of every single procedure. Etremely easy to follow, every tutorial should be this way.
Great video and guide. I like how you mention all these things DVO told you that are not being done in the maintenance guide, the bladder greasing, the white ring you have to cut off.. I feel 110% more confident with your video than any video they have released. Which is none for the topaz.
I've been getting all the parts to get this done and noticed like you that you need more then one kit to rebuild it. Especially since the bladder seems to be shit and goes all limp after a while in use.. I have a new topaz t3 on my ripmo and after not even 2 months, I swear the bladder has let air into the system.
Thanks again ! Will be watching your video again and again while rebuilding.
Hey glad to hear it's helpful! I wasn't aware of the bladder's reputation for turning to poo. Maybe that was the cause for the redesign DVO told me about. Honestly my shock was way overdue for a service, and after three rides I can say it feels great, just like it did new. After you do one full rebuild you realize it's pretty darn easy and you'll be more willing to do it again come service time.
... Also at about five or six bucks a piece it might be something worth swapping out every now and then.
Thanks so much for posting this tutorial. I just successfully rebuilt my topaz last night thanks to you.
Couple of things for anyone wanting to attempt this. One, I think you can just remove the damper shaft by using an 11mm wrench as you do to reinstall it in step 54. It's much easier than trying to clamp the damper shaft. Second, the air piston block was different in my topaz. It had a much beefier head, and an 18mm wrench was too small. Additionally, this revised version of the piston has a 27NM torque stamping.
Good luck to anyone that is willing to give this a try. Make sure you are very organized with the o-rings per the tutorial. Had I not laid them out as suggested, I would have misplaced or confused many of them during reassembly
@Derek Kumagai - Thanks for noting the differences you encountered with your rebuild. 27nm is much tighter than mine was! I think someone else mentioned that they removed the damper shaft by using a wrench instead of a vise. I think the only problem you might encounter is that nut coming loose, which you don't want to happen because it holds your shim stack in place. That said, I bet it's held together with red loctite and you might have to hit it with a torch to loosen it up (if you were going to tune your shock), so you're probably ok. I'm glad you experienced the satisfying feeling of rebuilding this thing yourself!
Thank you so much! I have been waiting and watching for someone that would post this procedure. Ordering my parts to follow step by step!
Glad to hear! The only thing I'd add is while bleeding the damper you want to cycle the shock as few times as possible. Ronnie at DVO said if you cycle it more than 10 times you risk a leak at the bladder. Not sure if he meant you add air into the system or you lose fluid into the bladder (or both). It should only take 4-5 plunges I think.
I cannot believe how many washers, bushings and seals there are in this shock.
Great video. This is what DVO should have provided. I am scared to do my own shock service, but after a million dollar service quote from my LBS and watching your video, i ordered the parts. Wish me luck!
You can totally do this one! I think I broke this up over a couple of days, but took me about 2 hours, and that was with running a camera. Laying out all the parts before reassembly really helped. I called DVO 2-3 times before I started and at least once or twice during the service, but I think I included all that info in the video. I'd wish you luck, but you won't need it. 🙂
@@TheSaucyMTBr Ok, man, I did it! I redressed my own shock! I never would have attempted this myself in a million years until I watched your video. Thanks so much! One or two small notes: the reservoir "flats" don't line up for me like yours did. Also, the guys at DVO told me I didn't need to use the metal washer between the damper and the housing, which is good, since I bent it in a vise accidentally. Finally, I was having lots of trouble clamping the damper shaft tightly enough to unscrew the housing. Instead, I held the housing in one hand and used a wrench on the nut under the shim stack and loosened the damper shaft from the housing that way. That nut (under the shim stack) was STUCK on there. Thanks again for the GREAT video!
@@joewest6681 good job man! Also, thanks for noting your experiences that differed from mine. I bet that nut on the damper shaft has loctite on it. I might try to do a compression/damper tune and I'll have to figure out how to get that thing off.
Thanks for this full rundown man!
Pro tip, use a magnet for the steel retaining clip on the bladder!
This is super helpful and very well done. Thank you!
Great video. Working on this rebuild now.
You have a lot of trigger lighters on your pegboard. 😁
The lighters were on clearance at Sam's. 🤣
Cool Video, regarding the Tools. I haven´t got a valve puller and a valve removal kit. So basically I used a sturdier pincette cut the ends and so I removed the valve core. For the Valve puller I used an old plastic valve cap and pliers to move the bladder unit up and down. The valve cap prevented the unit from damage. I don´t understand why the shaft is clamped on metal. If you you tighten the vice to much -> scratches .... if you don´t use enough force it rotates in the vice -> scratches .... I build my own shaft holder out of 3d printed tpu plastic which can rotate just fine in the vice without scratches. Then I can adjust the force till it won´t move. ( I made the clamping area also bigger). I don´t understand why it is no standard part. I used these brass clamps for a reverb before and scratched the shaft, then I was pissed of and build my own ones.
Great idea on the plastic cap and pliers. Making a custom valve puller was way overkill for this job. I totally agree on the 3d printed clamps!
Bravo, thank you! that goes straight into my favorite list ^^
Thanks a lot! That’s gonna be helpful! 🙏
Hi dude! Awesome video! When are you going to release more dvo videos? Could be the jade x or any other suspension!!
I'll do it as soon as I buy a Jade X and it needs a rebuild. :) That shock is on my want list.
Thanks for the video. Very clear. I would have loved to see a better reference to which ring was used, but it wasn't too hard too figure it out.
DVO should do such video's in my opinion.. so thanks again.
Only crappy part is that i havn't been able to replace the bladder which isn't available somehow. Hope to replace that as my bladder pressure is somewhat unstable before/after getting it on pressure.
Really informative video. Thank you!
Really straight forward thanks! I was mostly looking for 35:12 to show how bladder bleeding differs from pistons. That's how I thought it would go, thanks for confirming.
No tapping on the shock while cycling to free straggler bubbles?
I don't think tapping is necessary. Ronnie at DVO said you can overdo it, and didn't recommend cycling more than 10 times. I pushed and pulled on the plunger of the syringe to make cycling a little easier, but you have to be careful not to over pressurize the bladder. Do it just enough to help the fluid move along.
@@TheSaucyMTBr thanks, I've spend a good while with fox DHX air bleeds chasing air bubbles. Glad this may be simpler.
Thanks! Great video! :D
Super helpful! Thank you.
Amazing video! Thank you so much!! Reading the dvo guide I felt somewhat confident but pretty nervous, I've only ever done lower leg stuff on a fork. So great to see all the tips and tricks in addition to dvo instructions. My shock is way over due, technically one year would have been last June and it's like 2000+ miles. Shock still working awesome though so that's cool. Since this is a great community notes, for what it's worth DVO told me not to use Rockshox, maxima, or WPL for oil but did recommend fox, finish line, motorex, motul, goldspectro, or "any quality shock oil". Any idea why rockshox or maxima wouldn't work? Pretty sure WPL is super eco friendly so I could see the problem there at least. Thanks again! Saving this video for when it's time.
Hey, I'm glad it's helpful! Sounds like the list of not-to-use fluids has grown a little. When I talked to them they said Rockshocx makes their seals swell over time. They did tell me that the Rockshox Plush fluid was good to use however. As for Maxima, my understanding is that they make the standard rockshox fluid. They are one in the same.
The guy dvo Jesse on RUclips only uses wpl 🤷♂️
@@blazinmtbco719 I read that dvo liked WPL. I also read that they say not to use it. 😂 Probably best just to call up DVO and ask him what fluids they're recommending today.
Well done, much thanx
Very good video helped me a lot.
I have a Topaz T3.
I did a service.
now my problem i can't balance the positive-negative chamber!
What am I doing wrong or is there a trick.
Thank you in advance for your help
Make sure you didn't cover the port on the air can with slick honey. Drop your air sleeve and take a look. I did that once and just blew it out with my mouth. I hope slick honey isn't terribly toxic. 🙂
If you are not sponsored by DVO, you should. Top video 👍👍 What do you think about 5hat shock on an ebike ? I am 60 kg.
I don't see why it wouldn't work great. You might adjust the volume spacers and damper pressure slightly due to the extra weight, or a custom tune might be necessary, but this shock is pretty tunable out of the box. Most riders are like what 175lbs? Ebikes add another 30lbs or so? I'm 205-210 and it works great on a traditional mountain bike.
@@TheSaucyMTBr Thanks, i’ll do that 👍👍
Thanks great video just finished my first full service and the shock is not responding very well. It’s very soft adding air pressure is not making it any more harder. What did I do wrong?
Hmmm.... Did you forget to add air to the damper? I'm assuming it's holding air in the air can...
Thanks for your help . It was the o-ring between neg. And pos. Chamber, it had the smallest nick in it.@@TheSaucyMTBr
@@rg8707 Good fine! Sounds like a tricky one to debug, given the defect in the oring was so small.
Great video. As all have said, very confidence inspiring. Just recently built a bike which came with a Topaz3. The shock I was told only had under 10 rides, so would not think requires a service, but after set up and a few rides have noticed the air pressure in the main chamber and the bladder not holding. Thinking to do a full service, but any tips on trouble shooting?
Hmm... You will lose pressure just by attaching a pump as the chamber will equalize with the hose of the pump. If it's a fairly new shock, it is strange that you would lose pressure in both the air can and the diaper bladder. Honestly, my best advice for troubleshooting something like that, as there are so many possibilities, is to call dvo and talk to Ronnie. Good luck, and if you do have to take it apart, it really isn't that hard.
@@TheSaucyMTBr okay thanks. It was quite a drop in pressure, was set to 130-140, but checked after a big DH day, was at 80-90. Had another thought too. Am fairly new to full sus, coming from HT. I have been running the shock in medium mode and had a big DH day the day before I noted the pressure loss. Wondering if there is some sort of internal emergency function which will release air under heavy impact in the medium or firm mode. But I'll follow up with DVO directly. Had a ride today and tested the pressure throughout the ride in the main chamber held without issue.
Also, is it possible to change the bladder without having to service the damper/do a bleed? Thanks.
@@dennishorvat1552 that pressure drop sounds reasonable. It will be way more than just five PSI. You might notice 5 PSI drop on your forks after hooking up your pump, but they hold more air volume and less pressure as well. Also, just keep in mind when you're exercising your shock a lot it will get hot, which will increase your air pressure. By how much, I don't know, but just be aware is that when measuring (maybe let it cool first?).
@@dennishorvat1552 you can definitely get the bladder out without taking the shock apart, but you will have to do a full bleed.
Great video and work to follow up on all the nuances for getting this job done. After one service for a slurpee shock I just had catastrophic rebound damper control failure - outer o-ring for the rebound control circuit appears to have been forced out of shock or was folded on install and failed. Either way I can see a portion of o-ring outside the rebound control circuit and under the rebound control djustment knob.
Wonder if the circuit can be pulled without pulling the internal dampening rod? I would assume that the rod, when tightened seats against the rebound control circuit and holds the rebound circuit somewhat in place and the set screw at back ensures the circuit doesn't move?
Thoughts?
I think your assumptions about the retention of the rebound knob assembly are accurate. The long green rebound needle that drops in the skinny damper shaft has a white washer on either end, and I think that when you tighten down the damper shaft you are slightly crushing those washers and forming a seal. I think the set screw just helps hold the damper knob on place, but you can't remove the damper knob assembly without unscrewing that damper shaft. A bit unfortunate, but I think you'll have to disassemble the shock to fix it.
Thanks man!! Your a credit to CO!!
@@michaelbraudis8 as a native Texan I'll take that as a compliment. 😆
Same situation here with this oring. Do you have an idea what are the dimensions of those orings ? I have to replece it. No way to get DVO service kit - out of stock. I need replacement for those orings but I have to know dimemnsions. I haven't disassembled mine Topaz yet. Waiting for vise clamps.
What is the type of fitting/thread needed for the serynge bleeder to connect on the shock port ? I can't find on dvo manual info about this. It's not as a normal as pump brake port thank you.
Nice video
It's the bleed kit used for a Rockshox Reverb. I have a part number in the description, but I bought a generic one off of eBay. I go into some detail at the end of the video about it
@@TheSaucyMTBr, thank you for your reply. Sorry I missed that info. Keep up the good job with your videos
Woow a lot of rubber oring 😲
Fantastic video, but I'm curious, does the main body need to be stripped down before removing the bladder like you did here, or was it just because you were doing it all anyway? I think I need to replace my bladder but everything else it fine, so do t want to tempt fate by opening thighs that don't need to be opened!
You'll need to take the air can off so you can properly bleed the system. You won't be able to cycle the shock by hand with the air can on. Luckily, it screws off easily even without taking the outer sleeve off the can.
@@TheSaucyMTBr thanks boss!
I got 3 o rings left from the damper kit followed the manual and your video not sure
If you've got spare o-rings, you've done it right. 🙂 The t3 air is basically a rebranded SR suntour triair with a redesigned damper. The service kits are compatible, so you'll have unused o-rings left over.
wonder if trp brake bleed syringes would fit :)
Well, if you try it and it does, let me know. 😆
Hello, great video! My seal under rebound knob blown up somehow. On your video I see that two last seals (the nearests ones to the dial knob) on rebound shaft looks the same. There is a chance to put here diameters of those seals ? There is no chance to buy whole DVO set - out of stock everywhere - I need a replacment of those seals. Thank you in advance !
Hey Michal, unfortunately I don't have the dimensions of those o-rings. I would recommend calling or emailing DVO Suspension. They might have some kits in stock, but if not they probably have a bulk supply of o-rings that they can pull from. If not, they can tell you what type and size of o-ring to use and you can probably find them online.
@@TheSaucyMTBr Thx !
Rght now I'm stuck on part when we remove damper seal head, for unknown reasons I cant unscrew it :( I put here much more power than you on this video, but still can't move it :(
Remove all the orings and plastic parts, put the seal head into the boiling water for couple of minutes, then try to unscrew it. The heating should crack the loctite on the threads.
Great video!!! Thanks!
I noticed you use a bleed syringe with the plunger attached, while the DVO instructions have the plunger out. Why did you choose to go that route?
Also, looking at the bleed procedure (step 72 of the DVO PDF), I don't understand how they can open the bleed port with the shock inverted, compression lever open, and stanchion full of oil without the oil draining out through the reservoir (a problem that you seem to avoid by keeping the lever closed). Do you think this is just a typo?
It's funny because I've serviced two Topaz in the past and this never occurred to me, but I'm running into this issue with the one I have in the stand right now, which is what led me to your video. Thanks in advance.
A good observation about the plunger. Honestly, I don't know why I left it in the syringe. I will say that I was using version 2 of the manual and they are now up to version 3, so they did change a few steps. Ronnie did tell me that it needed an update. It could be that version 2 showed the syringe with the plunger installed or maybe I made an assumption. Or, maybe it made sense to leave it in because yes, if there is no plunger installed you will start losing fluid when you open the compression switch. That said, the compression switch should be closed when you open the bleed port to install the syringe. If you choose not to use the plunger, and there is fluid in the syringe, you'll still be ok when you open the switch to install the bladder, as long as you're quick.
Setting things up is easier if the plunger is installed, but bleeding is harder as you have to pull/push the plunger as you cycle the shock. You don't want the shock to force the plunger out as it moves fluid. If I were to do it again, id do it without the plunger.
I think you have the idea of how is all works, indicated by your question, so I think your inclinations are correct. Close the compression switch when you install the syringe. Open the switch as you insert the bladder, and maybe even when it is mostly inserted. You might benefit from a 3rd hand or maybe tie up the syringe so it didn't tip over. Let me know how it goes!
@@TheSaucyMTBr to clarify, open the switch just long enough to install the bladder so you don't lose excess fluid (the idea being that once the bladder occludes the reservoir no more fluid will be lost). I don't remember how I kept the syringe from spilling last time!
@@jshemuel exactly. In my video I can't even get the bladder in because I had my syringe clamp closed. The same concept applies with the switch. Worst case, you just open the shock back up, add more fluid, and try again. Btw, I wouldn't be able to remember how I did half of this process is I didn't record it. 😉
@@TheSaucyMTBr Thanks. Finished it up today without incident. One tip that DVO should really include in the manual is to open up the rebound all the way, which makes it a helluva lot easier to cycle during the bleed.
@@jshemuel good to hear you finished the job. Also, a good point about the rebound. I do recall it was tough for me cycling the shock. Thanks for feeding that back.
Hi, I have to do the review if I use a 3W oil do you say it is a problem or not? Greetings from Italy🇮🇹
Sadly, I'm not experienced enough to say. If you use too heavy a weight, then you'll end up with more friction inside your shock, which only creates heat and increases pressure in your air can. Basically your shock will become stiffer as you ride. Try emailing DVO. And greetings from America!
Thanks for the super thorough video! By the looks of it, all of the o- rings, on the damper side at least, looked fine, in good shape- did you notice any wear? I ordered the kit, but looks to me I can try and keep all those o rings in place, put a new bladder and bleed the shock. Did I miss any worn out parts? Thanks again!
I actually saw no worn o-rings or anything out of place other than the o-ring that was wrapped over the washer at time 4:44, and that actually looked ok structurally. I suppose o-rings can start leaking when they break down a little, and might not visually look bad. If you're in there and you have the kit you may as well replace them. Then again, I've heard the bladder goes out faster than the o-rings. Also, I've recently learned that SR Suntour is the manufacturer for DVO and a lot of parts are are shared between the topaz T3 Air and the Tri Air. That said, the air can kit is like half the price of the DVO one and looks to be identical: www.srsuntour.us/products/triair-seal-kit
@@TheSaucyMTBr thanks man! Yes, the tri air looks identical (minus the bladder/ ifp). All those o-rings look like a nightmare to manage. I’ll give it a try. I did my Jade (coil), it was fairly easy.
@@sica4873 the hardest part of changing the o-rings is keeping track of them. But you can do it!
@@TheSaucyMTBr thanks again. I started rebuilding the damper, and when placing the needle back I messed something up and ruined one of the white plastic rings. Is there a difference between those 2- the one going to the rebound eyelet and the other to the tip of the needle? I also kinda messed up one of the needle tips- I’m not even sure if that would make any difference though.
@@sica4873 I think the 2 white rings are the same. The damper kit comes with replacements right? I'd just reuse one of the old ones if you've damaged one. I do recall when I initially tightened down the set screw on the damper assembly, the entire assembly rotated and the white washer was no longer aligned correctly and I had to rotate it back before assembly. Also, in the video I drop the needle, with the white ring facing down, back into the black shaft (time 23:41), which I later wondered if that ring could have fallen lose in the process and gotten ruined when I put it all back together. I think I was ok in this instance, but next time I'll drop the black shaft over the needled to be sure it stays in place. If you're worried about your needle, DVO probably has spares to sell you, but it's not listed on their website. If you just dinged the end, I bet it's probably ok. Let me know how it turns out!
Awesome video! That Red Line fluid has some of the lowest cSt of any 2.5wt out there. Did you notice any difference in damping compared to stock? Thank you!
I knew Red Line had the best numbers, but I chose it because it's what DirtLabs handed me when I walked in and asked for 2.5wt fluid. I've only got 2 rides on the rebuilt shock, and they were short downhill runs followed by longer climbs to the top, plus it was chilly outside, so there really wasn't much time to get the shock heated up. Also, this was my first time on the bike in 3 months, so I was focused on not crashing and getting used to jumps again. I never though about the shock. It works and felt good enough not to distract me. After a day at Winter Park this summer I might have a better answer for you. But also, I think ANY fluid in a freshly rebuilt shock is going to work better. It's like tire impressions, any new tire will have better grip than your old ones. So the only way to really get a good comparison is to do a few runs, change fluid, and do the same runs again. ...This might make for a good experiment/video this summer; comparing shock fluids back to back. Check back mid July and I might have an opinion for you! :)
@@TheSaucyMTBr Sweet, yeah I love to tinker as well and DVO is where it's at as far as that goes. Keep up the great content!
Since DVO doesn't have a video of the full service they should throw some cash your way and use your video on their youtube channel and website
I'd let them do it for free. Well, maybe for a free service kit. 🤣
Hey ChainNoob, do you know how to increase shaft length? I ask because my current Topaz is a 210x50, but I have read that the stroke can be increased by 5mm. Do you know anything about this? Thanks!
Hey David, yes, the 210x50 topaz can be increased to a 55mm stroke. Just open the air can like I did in the early steps of the video and you'll see a 5mm spacer that slips on the damper shaft. Should be 'C' shaped. Look at the spare parts page on DVO's website for a part called "travel spacer topaz" to see what it looks like.
hey man! quick question i do have a topaz and the service center change all of the seals and bladder but i exp... travel drop from 160mm to 130ish something did you exp that also?? thanks man
I had no issues with reduced travel. Check the bladder and air can pressure and make sure they are in range. Next drop the air sleeve and make sure the little holes on the positive and negative chamber are not full of grease. Also, if you have volume spacers installed, make sure they aren't covering the holes. Finally, some of their shocks can be fitted with a travel reducing spacer. Unscrew the air can and pull it down, and see if you have any installed. They would be pressed up near the top of the bladder and rebound assembly (the part the air can screws into). But before you take any of that out, just make sure that they aren't supposed to be in there! You should be able to check all of that in 10 or 15 minutes. If none of that fixes the problem, I'd take it back to the shop. Who did the service for you? The only internal thing I can think of that might cause this is the rebound knob not being installed properly. If that isn't aligned with the rebound needle, then the flow of suspension fluid could be blocked, and in effect acting like the compression knob is somewhere between pedal and closed. After thinking about it for a few minutes, that sounds like a likely culprit. I show in good detail how to make that alignment properly, and I even had to do it a couple of times because when I tighten down the set screw it rotated the rebound assembly. Take a look at that so you understand what I'm talking about, and have your shop take a look at it. Let me know what you find, I'm curious what was the cause of this conundrum.
Just recently i notice that.. after the service center change the seals and bladder.. i rode my bike in our local trail and it was rough.. main canister heats up and that’s the reason why my shock suddenly drop it’s travel.. and i try to cool the shock gradually the travel came back.. back going back to the exit of the trail is far so i rode again and boom travel drops..
@@makeitrandom3067 Very interesting. I wonder if the shop used a heavier suspension fluid than what dvo recommends. I found this article that corroborates your findings. One of the comments made me think that your suspension fluid could be too thick and causing excessive friction and heat.
bikerumor.com/2018/10/25/suspension-tech-how-do-temperature-changes-affect-suspension-performance/
Too many o rings for my brain😳😳😳😳
Wow. Thank you.
hey man, is this the same for suntour triair ?
It's the exact same except for the piggyback portion of the damper. Suntour uses an internal floating piston, and I don't have the specs for that. Other than that, it's the same service kit for the air can and the damper knob. See if you can get the service kit for the damper along with the spec from suntour.
@@TheSaucyMTBr that's what i thought thanks a lot man
What syringe are you using?
It's the same as the RockShox Remote Bleed Kit. I've listed the part number in the description, but in the video I use a generic one I got off of ebay.
I didnt know Seth Rogen rebuilds shocks!
Ugh, you and all my friends, and even that high schooler from Pizza Hut, suck!
You know thats a complement, right?
...I never considered it like that. This changes everything. 😉 Seriously, I've been hearing that for like 15 years. Maybe there's some truth to it. 😆 Also, my comments are typically filled with sarcasm. seriously, no offense was taken.