I know when I built my 6l80 and it was crazy that you could do an air check to test the clutches with say full shop air and show no leaks but if you run about 10 psi it would leak bad . So I’m my experience I stick to low pressure for testing . Thank you for the videos God Bless.
I remember years ago it was common to recommend drilling the pressure drain back it the pump cover to in theory help prevent converter seal “blow out”. I did see that happen once or twice waaaaaay back especially after an overhaul. Lately I don’t see that recommendation in the shift correction kits. Is there a reason for this? As in it’s just not needed or has that modification been shown to cause an issue? I do add a bit of Locktight to the converter bushing/seal and always use the seal retention plate as well. Just curious. I am working on a 94 non-PWM 4L60 now and was considering opening up that passage but something made me stop and think about my question.
It's really the plug that seperates the reverse abuse and the 3-2 downshift valve. If the plug leaks, the 3rd fluid can exhaust past the plug into the reverse abuse spring side, which is exhausted. Since the 3rd fluid is after the orifice, it now becomes another leak in the 3/4 clutch circuit.
@@siuautomotive Ahh yes the Reverse Abuse and the 3/2 down shift share the same bore. I wasnt obviously aware of that, I just looked at the reverse abuse in isolation. Will have to study your Exceptional hydraulic videos again. Oh Btw have you watched Weber Auto with John Kelly, he has a fantastic channel too and has given very informative explanations, like yourself, to me also
Hi there, I have really enjoyed going through your transmission series here. I run a general repair shop but get a lot of questions about transmissions so am working on getting some experience with them. Luckily for me we had a 3/4 clutch burn up on my 4l60e on one of my trucks so I’m taking this opportunity to rebuild it. Haven’t made it through all the testing yet as I’m still waiting on some tools but I have one serious cause for concern I wanted to ask about. My case saver spring has worn a pretty good groove in the case to the point where it is being hampered from keeping tension on the clutch plate. Do you know what might cause this and what a possible repair might include? Or does this mean the case may need to be replaced? I was thinking of getting the case build up by a machine shop and then sanded smooth. Tranny has about 250k KM. Again thank you very much for the content. Very well explained.
That spring is used to keep the lo-roller housing against the case during the 2-1 downshift so it doesn’t “slap” the case, I would suspect that the trans must have had harsh downshifts, maybe from high line pressure. It’s hard to say for sure. But to clear up confusion, it doesn’t contact the clutch plates. Only the lo-roller support. Is that what you meant? If there was excessive wear in the case, I’d probably just buy a core unless you have some uncommon version that’s hard to get. A core should be cheap for these. Even check eBay. People sell good used parts for these all over.
@@siuautomotive thanks. Yes I meant the lo-roller sorry. I suspect high line pressure may have been at fault. Got the truck from a customer who had the engine go out on them. We rebuilt the motor and deleted the AFM so we had to program the pcm to delete it. Which is when we found out the transmission had a tune put in it at some point. Not sure what the tune was as I didn’t have access to that info. Either way we put it back to stock but lost 3rd and 4th shortly after when the vehicle ended up stuck in a snow bank. I believe the person trying to get it out possibly was a bit unkind to it in the process. Anyway I will probably look for a new case as the groove cut in this one is close to 3/32” deep. Thanks for the response.
I have a 4l65e an heard nicking sound on front of transmission the fluid dont move fron off engine, or when start , how do i now is the pump i ill ready tock it off an pump looks good , dont know much an strugling to find the problem
Was this the reason you took it apart? Or is this a new problem after rebuild? It sounds like the pump cannot pull any fluid or generate any pressure. That small thimble filter that fits into the side of the pump will cause this is you forgot to install it or left off the oring. Did you install a gauge to see if you can get any pressure at all?
The updated valves like the sonnax valve will work, but it does require reaming. If the bore is worn, I don't think putting a late model OE valve in there is a good idea. I suggest putting a valve from one of the major kit companies, like transgo, superior, or sonnax.
@@siuautomotive the bore isn't worn. I was just wondering if the later model valve would work in a 2000 model valve body since it is better. I've tried the transgo valves before but I don't like the on-off full lockup. It bogs my engine too bad because I have a pretty aggressive cam
Yes, I vacuum checked the valve body with the valves installed. I disassembled, cleaned the valve body and valves, then I assembled the valves and then vacuum checked it. You must have jumped forward in the video! How dare you!
@@siuautomotive lol I deserved it, I just realised how dumb the question was, you'd just be checking air holes. Embarrassment factor off the scale, Blush Blush ha ha
@@siuautomotive does the fluid flow from valve body to valve case or from valve case to valve body I.e. looking at the tx from the side does the fluid flow through the plate (hence metered orifices) bottom up or top down
The fluid is pulled into the pump and delivered to the converter and valve body. The fluid routed through the valve body will trace both up and down through the spacer plate before it finds its way to a clutch, servo, accumulator, etc. that’s why the valve bodies have a bunch of worm tracks - so it can zig-zag it’s way around to find the valves and travel through orifices.
I'm assuming your asking about the driveshaft yoke fitting into a 2WD transmission? If so, it's just one seal. OE part number 24232325. So maybe you're correct, although I don't know how two seals can be installed there.
I'm disappointed, you needed to go at least Another hour and a half (Maybe Part 2A)) because you didn't retrieve all the pistons especially the 3/4 Piston which might be Glazed Cracked and leaking causing thd 3/4 Burn-Out. AND the Accumulator piston cracking, Com on Man this video was WAAAY TOO SHORT 😁😁😂😀😀😀😊😉😉👍👍👍
I agree, but my minions were complaining in the background!! Can you believe it!! I might make a short update covering some things I wasn't prepared for, and maybe some better explanations .... Stay tuned!
@@siuautomotive ha ha loved the reply, hope the plebs err err minions didn't see the comment. No I can't believe it, I was engrossed 😁😁😀 I cant wait for the follow ups, I only know a little bit about the 4l60e only, its like a fascinating rabbit hole 😁
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
At vacuum its strong 19 inches, giggles
love the endless innuendos 😁😁😀😊👍👍
I know when I built my 6l80 and it was crazy that you could do an air check to test the clutches with say full shop air and show no leaks but if you run about 10 psi it would leak bad . So I’m my experience I stick to low pressure for testing . Thank you for the videos God Bless.
HOLA SOY DE MEXICO Y VEO SUS VIDEOS DE MUCHA AYUDA SALUDOS
I remember years ago it was common to recommend drilling the pressure drain back it the pump cover to in theory help prevent converter seal “blow out”. I did see that happen once or twice waaaaaay back especially after an overhaul. Lately I don’t see that recommendation in the shift correction kits. Is there a reason for this? As in it’s just not needed or has that modification been shown to cause an issue? I do add a bit of Locktight to the converter bushing/seal and always use the seal retention plate as well. Just curious. I am working on a 94 non-PWM 4L60 now and was considering opening up that passage but something made me stop and think about my question.
WOW... I wanna be a student!!
Didn't take long for Bree to become Editor
Extraordinairé 😁😁👍
@ 1:30:24, Why would the Reverse Abusé be
important for the longevity of the 3/4 Clutch ¿¿¿
It's really the plug that seperates the reverse abuse and the 3-2 downshift valve. If the plug leaks, the 3rd fluid can exhaust past the plug into the reverse abuse spring side, which is exhausted. Since the 3rd fluid is after the orifice, it now becomes another leak in the 3/4 clutch circuit.
@@siuautomotive Ahh yes the Reverse Abuse and the 3/2
down shift share the same bore. I wasnt obviously aware
of that, I just looked at the reverse abuse in isolation.
Will have to study your Exceptional hydraulic videos
again.
Oh Btw have you watched Weber Auto with John Kelly,
he has a fantastic channel too and has given very
informative explanations, like yourself, to me also
@@siuautomotive Agent jayZ has also a fascinating channel
on turbojet jet engines too.
Hi there, I have really enjoyed going through your transmission series here. I run a general repair shop but get a lot of questions about transmissions so am working on getting some experience with them. Luckily for me we had a 3/4 clutch burn up on my 4l60e on one of my trucks so I’m taking this opportunity to rebuild it.
Haven’t made it through all the testing yet as I’m still waiting on some tools but I have one serious cause for concern I wanted to ask about. My case saver spring has worn a pretty good groove in the case to the point where it is being hampered from keeping tension on the clutch plate. Do you know what might cause this and what a possible repair might include? Or does this mean the case may need to be replaced? I was thinking of getting the case build up by a machine shop and then sanded smooth. Tranny has about 250k KM.
Again thank you very much for the content. Very well explained.
That spring is used to keep the lo-roller housing against the case during the 2-1 downshift so it doesn’t “slap” the case, I would suspect that the trans must have had harsh downshifts, maybe from high line pressure. It’s hard to say for sure. But to clear up confusion, it doesn’t contact the clutch plates. Only the lo-roller support. Is that what you meant? If there was excessive wear in the case, I’d probably just buy a core unless you have some uncommon version that’s hard to get. A core should be cheap for these. Even check eBay. People sell good used parts for these all over.
@@siuautomotive thanks. Yes I meant the lo-roller sorry. I suspect high line pressure may have been at fault. Got the truck from a customer who had the engine go out on them. We rebuilt the motor and deleted the AFM so we had to program the pcm to delete it. Which is when we found out the transmission had a tune put in it at some point. Not sure what the tune was as I didn’t have access to that info. Either way we put it back to stock but lost 3rd and 4th shortly after when the vehicle ended up stuck in a snow bank. I believe the person trying to get it out possibly was a bit unkind to it in the process. Anyway I will probably look for a new case as the groove cut in this one is close to 3/32” deep. Thanks for the response.
I have a 4l65e an heard nicking sound on front of transmission the fluid dont move fron off engine, or when start , how do i now is the pump i ill ready tock it off an pump looks good , dont know much an strugling to find the problem
Was this the reason you took it apart? Or is this a new problem after rebuild? It sounds like the pump cannot pull any fluid or generate any pressure. That small thimble filter that fits into the side of the pump will cause this is you forgot to install it or left off the oring. Did you install a gauge to see if you can get any pressure at all?
Can you put the newer updated tcc regulator valve in an older 2000 model valve body?
The updated valves like the sonnax valve will work, but it does require reaming. If the bore is worn, I don't think putting a late model OE valve in there is a good idea. I suggest putting a valve from one of the major kit companies, like transgo, superior, or sonnax.
@@siuautomotive the bore isn't worn. I was just wondering if the later model valve would work in a 2000 model valve body since it is better. I've tried the transgo valves before but I don't like the on-off full lockup. It bogs my engine too bad because I have a pretty aggressive cam
Ima Confewsed, were u checking withé the valves
in the body?, I thought you had previously removed the
valves onto the white tray thingey.
Yes, I vacuum checked the valve body with the valves installed. I disassembled, cleaned the valve body and valves, then I assembled the valves and then vacuum checked it. You must have jumped forward in the video! How dare you!
@@siuautomotive lol I deserved it, I just realised how
dumb the question was, you'd just be checking air holes.
Embarrassment factor off the scale, Blush Blush ha ha
@@siuautomotive pleasé don't classify me as a Minion
Just yet I was awake
@@siuautomotive does the fluid flow from valve body
to valve case or from valve case to valve body I.e.
looking at the tx from the side does the fluid flow
through the plate (hence metered orifices) bottom up
or top down
The fluid is pulled into the pump and delivered to the converter and valve body. The fluid routed through the valve body will trace both up and down through the spacer plate before it finds its way to a clutch, servo, accumulator, etc. that’s why the valve bodies have a bunch of worm tracks - so it can zig-zag it’s way around to find the valves and travel through orifices.
How many seals are on a Chevy Tahoe 07 yoke mine had 2 some I’m wondering if someone serviced this before?
I'm assuming your asking about the driveshaft yoke fitting into a 2WD transmission? If so, it's just one seal. OE part number 24232325. So maybe you're correct, although I don't know how two seals can be installed there.
Hello sir can you give me a pdf's of the transmation please
po kip see!
5t55
I'm disappointed, you needed to go at least Another hour
and a half (Maybe Part 2A)) because you didn't retrieve
all the pistons especially the 3/4 Piston which might be Glazed
Cracked and leaking causing thd 3/4 Burn-Out. AND
the Accumulator piston cracking, Com on Man
this video was WAAAY TOO SHORT
😁😁😂😀😀😀😊😉😉👍👍👍
I agree, but my minions were complaining in the background!! Can you believe it!! I might make a short update covering some things I wasn't prepared for, and maybe some better explanations .... Stay tuned!
@@siuautomotive ha ha loved the reply, hope the plebs
err err minions didn't see the comment. No I can't believe
it, I was engrossed 😁😁😀
I cant wait for the follow ups, I only know a little bit about
the 4l60e only, its like a fascinating rabbit hole 😁