I bought this unit in 2010. I put 125K miles on it and sent it back for a rebuild because I was putting a new engine in my daily driver 2003 S10. When they opened up the transmission the guys were asking why it came back because it looked as if it had less than 50K miles on it. PerformaBuilt put all their latest updates in for the Level 2. Now I throw a 450HP Procharger 4.3 V6 at it all day long and it never gives. These transmission are bullet proof. Great Job Ryan... It is easy watching your videos, and informative.
Wow. I can't quite articulate just how impressed I am with this video. Every aspect of your post is uber amazing to me. The QUALITY of the recording, the clean camera angles, the QUALITY information, the pace of the video, the QUALITY of the work being done, the audio, etc... I mean really. This sets the bar quite high guys. Thank you for all of your hard work, and the amazing wealth of QUALITY accurate information.
I do appreciate the reply and the videos are great. Having had several apart and back together (no where even close to where you are) I was able to pick up some helpful tips. The talk about the importance of a clean unrestricted filter makes a ton of sense and it’s something I never really considered. Also your method and focus on the pump alignment is something I look forward to trying. Thank you for your time.
I love it I’m sold!! Had a great phone conversation about my build we are almost there, ready to start Olaf again with his new turbo setup 😎 & one of these bad transmission with a boss hog converter like you said 💪🏽
awesome video, awesome content...really well presented and your product also is awesome. I recently blew up my 4l60e and have been researching for some basic knowledge. Pat on your back for your generosity in sharing !!
Just got done doing hci on corvette c5 with 4l60e that I had rebuilt at some trans shop after 3 4 fried 3 years ago. Trans still is OK but I think it will break with the new mods so will be looking to get one soon that will hopefully last life of car and this video is impressing me. If brian builds mine in video I'll be calling you guys
Finally installed my Heavy Hauler last week in my '07 Silverado 1500 4x4. Thing is real nice! Can really feel 3rd and 4th shift now, unlike the stock one. I found alot of clutch material in my pan of the stock one! Didn't expect that with how fast my 3rd gear failed. Guess she had been slipping longer than I thought! The torque converter is real nice, too. I've left rubber accidentally a few times, where the stock one you really had to work at it (beat on it) to make that happen.The Tru-Cool cooler I'm using made a huge difference as well - hottest I've seen so far in this winter weather is 130° only briefly - likes to stay in the hundred teens and twenties. Haven't towed with it yet, but I have no doubt she'll perform beautifully. THANKS for taking pride in your work!! 👍😎
Thank you for the kind words!. Just remember to change your fluid and deep filter after 1000 miles for break in and once a year is what i recommend after and it will last many many years. The filter is more important than the fluid.
This is a very DETAILED video, amongst the MOST DETAILED 4L60e videos I have ever seen. I believed I could rebuild one before this video, but after seeing this I KNOW I COULD DO THIS!!!!!!!!!! But I think I will just order a a PerformaBilt 4L80 level 3 Black Edition for my 12v Cummins swap in my 88 2500 GMC
🤣🤣🤣 If you're one of those guys who looses 10mm sockets you might wanna stock up... loved that and the video I'm in the middle of my first build on my 95 Burban 4x4 I hope it turns out well lol .... The more video's I watch the more little tricks I learned...
Honestly really liked watching you build this transmission. I'll be looking into having y'all build my 4L60E for my S10 with 35" mud tires. Being built for daily driving and overlanding adventure camping. Y'all not located that far from me. I'm just near the pocono raceway. Berwick isn't that far.
Nice video and thanks for taking the time to put it out there. I was worried for a second when you tightened the valve body down and went on to do the harness without tightening the five 8mm headed bolts. Obviously, you caught that. It’s hard when you’re not following your normal routine. I always hate when someone interrupts means I freely admit I have trouble walking and chewing gum at the same time. 🤣🤣
Hey, I like the video. I'm getting ready to rebuild my 4L65E out my 03' Yukon Denali. I had done it before 3 yrs ago. of course 3rd gear went out. the rebuild kit didn't have the proper thickness 3rd gear friction and steels to accommodate 7 friction. in a crunch I reused steel and used 6 which gave me (.058"). well it lasted 50k mile. In your video your using 8 frictions, is the forward drum a special build? Are Raybestos Z-pak good? or not necessary?
Our setup in the 3/4 is very unique and requires machining to get the desired results. We sometimes use 6 forward frictions but mostly 5. Raybestos Z paks are great for the average street vehicle, towers, and daily drivers.
Except he totally mis explains what they are for, they are NOTHING to do with centrifugal force, they are to slow up that clutch pack to give the band time to release.
Just to prevent mis information the 2/ 3 and 3/4 overlap your describing purely comes from the how you do the hydraulics in the valvebody, clearances, and some tuning adjustments as well.
Good Video, just curious if you've seen the Beast sunshells broken ? I'm a full time builder, been at it a long time, and I've seen 3 or 4 Beast shells, either broken at one of the lugs that engage the reverse drum, or the splined area twisted and broken. I've been using the later GM shot peened shells or the Sonnax Smart tec
We have but very very rarely. About 3 times ive seen it over my career. Ours were caused by failed differentials and that of course took the bottom end out in general. The only thing i can think of to cause a beast fail is a manufactuer fault or very high rpm applications where the smart shell balancing is key whereas the beast is not balanced as well as the smartshell.
I never have torn into an automatic transmission and really didn't even know what they entailed inside. Great job explaining things and breaking it down into sections. I just got a 97 Yukon 4wd with a bad 460LE, it is crunching and grinding by the output shaft and putting in in park does no good. I was curious what a transmission rebuild entailed and you have given me an idea of what it will involve. Thanks for the great video.
Thank you!! Your rear ring gear and rear planet are probably damaged along with the low roller sprag. Your looking at a whole rebuild with heavy cleaning.
Nevertheless frictions always need to be soaked in trans fluid prior to assembly (as far as I know) while they in fact look bone dry here - seems this video is only for demonstration purposes (?)
I have a question I have a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4 work truck, when I engage the tow package when towing my trailor it starts to leak transmission fluid after about 10 miles of towing. When I disengage it, it quits leaking. What would be the cause and how can I fix it. Could using flex fuel be the cause?
Awesome video very detailed on everything. So I have a 2001 Silverado 4x4 3rd 4th is gone along with reverse this isnt the original engine so is there any numbers on this transmission I can reference from other than 4l60e ?
When the endplay and clearances are just right it will spin freely like im doing. Since its still locked up with your servo out either the band is faulty or your endplay is too tight.
Hi man ive got a stock 4l60e with a shift kit & vetted servo. My question is, is it possible to a adjust the line pressure@ the valve body & how do I go about doing it?
it is possible but its the wrong way to adjust line pressure, however you simply turn the torx screw on the epc solenoid. You should always adjust line pressure through your pumps boost valve or the vehicles TCM but not both and not the epc.
A 4l60e from a '98 s10 (60 degree bellhousing) vs a typical bellhousing 4l60e (both 2wd) is everything the same internally and the stage kits will all work or is there a difference. I'm swapping a 3800 in my s10 and I'm debating on building the 60e in it with a stg3 kit or just buy a th350 with the trans adapter plate. Motor makes 500hp rn but I do plan on making more very soon.
You should change the low rev wave plate for a regular steel it hold the clutches applied while the band is engaging makes better shift and less wear on band and clutches
LOL! I have resorted myself to watching you build a 4L60 nearly every time I am in the middle of one. I will likely grow out of this as my experience progresses but I find a certain amount of (zen???) when I watch the video first. I sure would enjoy building one or two together with a builder like you. I have for the most part taught myself (I never attended an official trans training course) to build with videos such as this and whatever books or paper work I could find. I’m sure I could pick up some valuable information. I see the Performabuilt name is really getting around, or at least I have noticed hearing it more often (no disrespect). Congratulations on that bc none of what I’m hearing is negative. Thanks for taking the time! ……..Rosco
Band clearance has more room for play as it should be a tad looser than the 3rd clutch clearance to help with band overlap. We have been doing it so long with so many 4l60s you sorta just know when its perfect after awhile!
Fascinating video, if have a question,do you pre soak the frictions. Other rebuilders do, is it necessary or not, Iam trying to understand automatic transmissions, great video
When you have a dyno it is not nessecary as you run it for an extended period of time with no load. If directly installing into a vehicle i would soak them as its a different enviorment.
Ryan, exceptional video. Somebody recently re-built 4L60e. Bad experience, the truck wouldn’t shift & seemed like it was stuck on 2nd even when shifted down to 1st. I drove for about 5 mins and fluid shot out of breather with pieces of what seems like material on belt, any ideas what went wrong? I had to take down after initial re-install to take back to him, wish I would have seen tour video before this issue.
Not a common problem thats for sure. It was definitely a bind up which when pressured up can cause fluid to spew out the tube and probably builder error but there could be many things that cause that like a torn lip seal in the input drum for example. I can diagnose common issues when the trans is built correctly but builder error is one thing that gets extremely hard to diagnose by description because a lot of them make very uncommon mistakes. Not many people can build these. I wish i could help more but im at a loss to exactly what is causing your problem without actually diving into the unit. I would suggest a different builder.
For the pump alignment....I build the pump first. I finger tighten the bolts that hold the two pump halves together...I install the pump in the BARE case with no O-ring. I finger tighten the pump to case bolts. I run a long extension through the rear of the case where the output shaft goes and torque down the pump bolts!
You have to use an extension because you are slightly tightening the pump half bolts through the opening on the rear of the case where the output shaft is. The pump is installed as usual in an empty case because u are using the case pump bore for an alignment tool. Then you remove pump and use torque wrench for final torque.
Okay so I have a 4l60e in my 2007 chevy avalanche and it just went out 2 days ago but I had a 700r4 rebuilt about a month ago, will the clutch packs from the 700r4 fit and work for the 4l60e?
I plan on doing a cammed 6.0 with a 212 218 ish range cam in my extended cab Silverado, I'm very interested in a stage 2 transmission I don't beat the piss out of my truck but I plan on letting my foot get heavy on the throttle and letting my tires spin once in awhile, how long would this trans last under these conditions?
Yes all the parts are the same and compatible with eachother. The only difference from this build compared to yours will be the solenoids used and the inputshaft/pump stator.
When talking about the garbage aluminum pistons, you are meaning "bonded"? I'm rebuilding my 60 currently and am sourcing my parts have everything sorted I think but I'm stuck on this bonded piston vs molded.. please help.... Lol
We only use bonded pistons and its the only way to go. in the earlier 4l60Es prior 97 and the 700R4 they used aluminum with removable lip seals that just dont hold up like the steel bonded do.
I have answered this probably over 500 times in the comments. if installing directly into a vehicle yes i soak, if i am bench building where it will go on a dyno with no load, then i do not soak. for a more in depth explanation please find the longer explanations in the comments.
I have a stock 5L40e on my VE CALAIS V6, would a 4L60e built be the best application to put power into? Do you ship to Australia and where can i get a price on this transmission.
If installing direct into a vehicle i would absolutely soak them but we dyno test and i have more control over the trans on startup in that aspect. we run them for the better part of an hour and with no load at first they get soaked plenty fast with actual pressure. We have done this for years with great results and dry frictions let you measure clearances and drag more accurately.
I have a question for you guys. I love the builds and have watched and saved all you 4l60e videos. I have a stock 2003 Silverado. I just finished rebuilding the transmission. I have only built a few auto transmissions before. I have the transgo, shift correction kit and the sonex pump upgrades with the spring spacer the new valve the transgo .500 heavy duty boost valve and different springs. I used the Drake performance clutch and rebuild kit for everything else. I also bought the upgraded aluminum diaphragm with the o ring and the corvette almunium high perfromace super servo. and the sonnax billet overrun piston kit. I upgraded to a 5 pinion planetary gear set with the heavy duty shell. a towing lock up converter from drake. I just installed the transmission. everything shifts smoothly when in 1st 2nd or 3rd. but when I put it in drive and it shifts something is cutting power to the engine. Almost like its a traction control issue the truck is still running perfect it just cuts out, just wont go under light load.it actually works perfect if I hammer the throttle. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. if I take off in 3rd it runs and shifts perfectly.
make yourself a manual switch shift box. Lots of vids on here that explain it. Easily google your wiring diagram. I say this with respect and humility as I rebuilt my trans, just back to stock with the usual updates and one morning it just lost 2nd and 3rd gears. At around 20,000 miles with perfect shifting up to the night before. The reason is my ECU lost its flash. My trans was fine. Well, driving it like I did for several weeks while replacing Servo seals, apply pin, solenoids, etc. lost some life as it crapped out within 70,000 miles. But, then I wired up the switch box and found out it was actually shifting and performing perfectly. Every shop I took it to to get the scanner put on it was telling me it was in need of rebuild. Swapped out ECU with a re-flashed unit and everything shifted perfectly again for 50,000 more miles. Ultimately, my TCC valve bore was worn, had put the spring in it to lock it out, but still acting up and causing the in and out of overdrive issue that it had at the end of its original 365,000 original miles. Worn valve body. Over 435,000 miles on it now. Anyway, Good tool to have if you are into this as deep as you are apparently. Good luck! I am rebuilding again with all upgraded HP parts. Learned a little on my first one. I hope to do better on next one
What sonnax input drum and shaft I use for a 1996 4l60e car. 500hp 9000rpm . Please provide the part number. Will 2000 and up 4l60e imput drum and shaft fit?
I dont have it off hand and i am a busy guy, you can buy everything through Sonnax's website, and you will need a pre 1997 298mm input shaft. A year 2000 4l60E will not work for your application unless you have swapped in an LS motor then you will need an LS 300mm shaft. I would need to know those things first in order to help you but i will not guarentee it holds because i dont know your experience as a builder as well.
My Pbuilt lvl II and FTI 3k converter is awsome for LS1 . The best part was the note on the filter found on first fluid change that said " party too hard ?" 😂.
Gotta pretty ignorant question. I'm not real familiar how transmissions work when in the process of building them. But I was wondering if you could still use all those aftermarket components, without a shift kit, and still use a regular torque converter? I want firm, smooth, quick shifts, but I don't want the hard impact of a shift kit and I don't want the high rev of a 2600 stall.
Actually a great question. Yes absolutely you can. The components themselves with no shift kit are very beneficial and will firm the transmission shifts up and increase holding power because of the increase in surface area of the components being applied. you can opt for a better HD converter with a stock stall speed or reuse your old one to retain that stock stall feel. haveing a different torque converter only is beneficial in the stall speed that your application needs and better ones have a better backing plate for lockup at higher horepower. otherwise they do the same job.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Hey man, you're answer to my question definitely helped. I ended up having the local trans shop do a stage 2 build on a 700R4 without the stall in the converter, or the shift kit. The guy who did the build was kindly confused, whereas builds like that in my area usually consist of higher h.p. and speed applications. But if you've got the time, to answer, I've come a across a 2000 stall torque converter. Oddly enough, I've also came by a stage 1 shift kit for 700R4 applications. I've bought the converter, but I haven't bought the stage 1 shift kit, only because I wasn't unsure whether or not it would work with a stage 2 build. That probably seems like be question with a simple answer, but don't have a clue. With a stage 1 shift kit work with a stage 2 build?
I rebuilt my 4L60E, it now shifts great. Unfortunately, I have the same symptom as before, transmission or gear fluid slowly dripping from the extension housing/transfer case meeting point. I read somewhere that this was supposedly a 'dry' area. Any ideas? Could it be the transfer case fluid?
It depends on the type of transfer case you have. Some are sealed off for gear fluid and others feed off the atf fluid. In either case there must be a gasket and Orange o ring sealing the adapter on either end.
They are because we soak them on our dyno with no load, installing dry gives more accurate clearance information as well. If i was directly installing into a vehicle i do recommend soaking them. As with all high volume shops that specialize in a particular trans we have a regulated air system and low torque 1/4 guns that are very reliable and accurate for the specs on the 4L60 bolts. All high volume shops have this.
it helps but is not the end all be all. There are many variations and better versions of the 2nd gear servo. Its more important the pressures and hydraulics are up to par rather than hardparts.
It depends on the application and what your trying to do with it. I usually follow the 60 for cars/ light trucks not exceeding 5000lbs or so and the 80 for the very heavy vehicles like suburbans, tahoes, etc. the biggest factors when determining what trans to build is mostly rearend, weight, and driving style. The junkyard 80 doesnt exist anymore as they are getting over 20 years old. Its starting to cost just as much money to build 80s and with todays parts and know-how the 60 and 80 are equally reliable if they are built for how they will be used.
I realize that your modifications are based on many hours of R&D and that information belongs to the company. I only want to ask about the Transgo separator plate. I am interested in your opinion on using them on a stock build, especially when the check ball that commonly punches through the plate does just that. Is it better to just repair the plate and reuse it on a stock build?
I also wanted to ask if there are any books or other sources of study to help someone like me that wants to learn. As I stated on another comment I am a professional technician but transmission work is subbed out usually. I have rebuilt around 10 to 15 of the 4l60e transmissions. I seem to learn something new on everyone right now. I have also rebuilt a few other units along the way. I have already purchased a good many tools including the tools for the Teflon seals on the input drum and stator. Just trying to learn all I can.
i would buy a book with actual fluid diagrams in it and study how it works and it will slowly start comming together for you. atsg and transmission bench on youtube are great beginner videos as well.
Two questions: 1) do you offer the option of mailing in a transmission and having it built? Trying to retain my ‘96 4L60e in my ‘96 2dr. 2) do you make any modifications or substitute parts to fix the common TCC solenoid issue where the bore wears out?
PerformaBuilt Transmissions gotcha, thank you. Don’t want it to sound like I’m questioning your expertise and experience, because I’m certainly not in a place to do so, I’m just trying to learn about these units, but, regarding blocking off the PWM/TCC regulator valve. I’ve read in at least one place that can cause other issues due to over pressure. Is that the fix you do or do you recommend something like the sonnax regulator and isolator valve? If you’re unable to answer, no big deal, again, just trying to learn.
never heard of overpressure and everyone on the planet sticks that valve in the valve body so pwm doesnt pulse anymore. 99% of people and builders dont know its actually not the valve that is the issue for leaks or function but its actually the cap that leaks and gets worn out that is the real problem. As for the pump valve for tcc that does get worn out and a sonnax valve with seal is the best way to address that
PerformaBuilt Transmissions makes sense. Sonnax is the source for that overpressure issue I mentioned: www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/214-20-years-later-what-s-new-with-4l60-e-pwm-modifications
Since watching this video (several times) I have been striving to get my 3/4 clearance between 0.020-0.025. I have only been doing this w/ a 6 friction pack and have had good results using only the thickest GM backing plate (I think it’s 0.230 ish). So far I haven’t had any complaints but I worry that bc I don’t know some of the things you guys have learned that I may eventually get into a situation. Not asking for any trade secrets here just an opinion. Next one I am considering using the Sonnax apply/backing and 7 frictions though. You think am pushing it running that snug w 6 frictions? I am not building for race cars. Mostly daily drivers, now and then a souped up truck.
hey man, love the videos. got a couple questions if you dont mind. 03 gmc 1500. 5.3 auto 4l60e. has flare up shifting. 1-2 then 2-3. sometimes takes about 3-4 seconds to take gear and sometimes it is normal. All gears hold strong after shifting with no slipping. Could this be 2-4 servo or accumulator pistons? What's your thoughts.
Just wondering, I know this is a 2nd gen 4l60e and I have a one piece transmission 1st gen. Is the build almost the same or is it a totally diffrent animal
Great vid thanks... Can you answer a question for me ,Have a 85 IROC had for 20 years it always shifts firm even at light throttle cable is adjusted properly what can be causing this ?
Firm is not always bad at all, but if the trans IS stock then your TV is probably too tight and its pushing on the throttle valve prematurely causing more pressure at part throttle. If the TV is adjusted properly then you may have a broken accumulator spring if its only on the 1-2 shift. If its ALL gears then your TV is definitely not adjusted properly. If the trans is not stock then it probably has a bigger boost valve and slight shift kit which nothing to worry about.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Thank you for the reply back I appreciate it ,, Could have had a shift kit ,,BTW which is the 1-2 accumulator the bottom one or the one on top of the valve body plate ? So I can check it out
I dont use a particular kit but rather parts i specifically select for a particular application and we dont sell parts. If you want our build then you have to buy our build. At 9000 RPM you will need a better build than the one shown in the video. You would need our level 3 even though your not near the power those high rpms are stressful.
What do you think of the sonnex smart input drum? Is it really necessary some people say yes some say no others only use it in high HP applications. Im really doubtful that flex is an issue when using a new thicker 3/4 backplate and setting tighter clearance. Is the stock input drum really that bad?
We use the super drum over 900whp based on 4klbs. The stock drum sleeved is just fine if built properly to handle up to 900whp based on 4klbs. Not many people can build a 4l60E right and the internet is full of false information.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions so I should be good with a stock input drum (im making under 500hp) the last drum I built I used hi-per blue pistons new steels Alto HEG for the overrun and forward but 3/4 are raybestos GPZ100 with a clearance of about .038 I also used new apply/backing plates. Its only been 2 or 3 months but seems to be holding up. The reason why I was asking is bacause im doing a new build basically the same setup in the drum but with a thicker 3/4 backplate (.220) im shooting for .25 to .030 clearance but I was concerned about the drum, Ive had people tell me never to use it that its no good etc etc.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions BTW I dont know if you ever came across this but in my first build I did that was actually built by a shop and then failed with less that 10k miles I found that the 3/4 apply piston had prematurely gone bad. When I took it apart I could not see anything wrong until I checked sealing surface and the molded rubber was hard and fit loosely over the forward housing these were stock black rubber molded pistons, anyway thats the reason why im using hi-per blue pistons now, what do you think would have caused that?
Excellent presentation. Seems Sonnax gear is pretty good and robust. Just a question, do you do much mega strong 6L80E, maybe a Black Label level 4 that can support around 1,000hp. I know big torque is the trans killer. I am from Brisbane Australia. PS - that is one hell of a clean workshop, and case and parts, strangely enough that alone inspires confidence.
Yeh I've had my VE Commodore Calais V with 6L80E for 12 years now. 2 complete new trans when you could buy them ; and 2 upgrade rebuilds. Yup expensive exercises. Thanks anyway. I will be watching your videos as this one is excellent!!!
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I bought this unit in 2010. I put 125K miles on it and sent it back for a rebuild because I was putting a new engine in my daily driver 2003 S10. When they opened up the transmission the guys were asking why it came back because it looked as if it had less than 50K miles on it. PerformaBuilt put all their latest updates in for the Level 2. Now I throw a 450HP Procharger 4.3 V6 at it all day long and it never gives. These transmission are bullet proof.
Great Job Ryan... It is easy watching your videos, and informative.
Thank you Nate!
Beautiful video. It is always good to watch different builders and learn the best from each one. Thanks for sharing knowledge.
Wow. I can't quite articulate just how impressed I am with this video. Every aspect of your post is uber amazing to me. The QUALITY of the recording, the clean camera angles, the QUALITY information, the pace of the video, the QUALITY of the work being done, the audio, etc... I mean really. This sets the bar quite high guys. Thank you for all of your hard work, and the amazing wealth of QUALITY accurate information.
Thank you so much. I love what we do and i put a lot of effort into it!
Soo do you soak the clutches or no?
I've been a builder for 26 years and must say your builds are Outstanding! Thanks for sharing
Glad you like them!
Awesome build.. I'm in the auto and diesel industry 25 years.. just getting into rebuilding auto trans..
I do appreciate the reply and the videos are great. Having had several apart and back together (no where even close to where you are) I was able to pick up some helpful tips. The talk about the importance of a clean unrestricted filter makes a ton of sense and it’s something I never really considered. Also your method and focus on the pump alignment is something I look forward to trying. Thank you for your time.
Your very Welcome
I have not built a trans in 20 years and I must say. You should be proud of your work. Very good job.
great vid mate just rebuilt mine here in australia using this vid thank you sits behind a harrop blown ls1,cheers.
I love it I’m sold!! Had a great phone conversation about my build we are almost there, ready to start Olaf again with his new turbo setup 😎 & one of these bad transmission with a boss hog converter like you said 💪🏽
awesome video, awesome content...really well presented and your product also is awesome. I recently blew up my 4l60e and have been researching for some basic knowledge. Pat on your back for your generosity in sharing !!
Thank you
This is great..4th gear went out on my 05 came across this video and I'm really contemplating this trans set up for a cam swap and future boost
It’s my choice..I will be doing a video once I get it, pandemic 😷 gotta save 😅
Just got done doing hci on corvette c5 with 4l60e that I had rebuilt at some trans shop after 3 4 fried 3 years ago. Trans still is OK but I think it will break with the new mods so will be looking to get one soon that will hopefully last life of car and this video is impressing me. If brian builds mine in video I'll be calling you guys
Surgical Build, Awesome!!
Brave with that impact nice build man looks really good
I have it regulated down so it sounds worse than it is!
Finally installed my Heavy Hauler last week in my '07 Silverado 1500 4x4. Thing is real nice! Can really feel 3rd and 4th shift now, unlike the stock one. I found alot of clutch material in my pan of the stock one! Didn't expect that with how fast my 3rd gear failed. Guess she had been slipping longer than I thought!
The torque converter is real nice, too. I've left rubber accidentally a few times, where the stock one you really had to work at it (beat on it) to make that happen.The Tru-Cool cooler I'm using made a huge difference as well - hottest I've seen so far in this winter weather is 130° only briefly - likes to stay in the hundred teens and twenties. Haven't towed with it yet, but I have no doubt she'll perform beautifully. THANKS for taking pride in your work!! 👍😎
Thank you for the kind words!. Just remember to change your fluid and deep filter after 1000 miles for break in and once a year is what i recommend after and it will last many many years. The filter is more important than the fluid.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions - Thanks for the info! Will do, for sure.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions is that for any newly installed rebuild transmission ? 🤔
Thanks to quarantine I found out that Bob Ross' son builds badass transmissions. This is a great video, thank you for making it!
That legend is my wallpaper on my phone. he is holding an angle grinder and the caption is " A bad weld is just a happy accident"
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions that's awesome
Lmao....3*4 pack gms happy accident
This is a very DETAILED video, amongst the MOST DETAILED 4L60e videos I have ever seen. I believed I could rebuild one before this video, but after seeing this I KNOW I COULD DO THIS!!!!!!!!!! But I think I will just order a a PerformaBilt 4L80 level 3 Black Edition for my
12v Cummins swap in my 88 2500 GMC
We build for lots of cummins swaps so give us a call when your ready!
Well made video, editing on point. informative, and very very helpful. Cheers mate.
Amazing stuff, getting my 95 z28 with one of these in 2 days
I like the quality of the video, I keep watching it as though i never saw it hahaha..
I second
That was bloody awesome mate top work 👌
Thank You
Very nice video thank you.
not bad.. I like the z-pack 14 and do a little different with the accumulator but all in all very nice job.. it was pure pleasure to watch Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it
🤣🤣🤣 If you're one of those guys who looses 10mm sockets you might wanna stock up... loved that and the video I'm in the middle of my first build on my 95 Burban 4x4 I hope it turns out well lol .... The more video's I watch the more little tricks I learned...
Honestly really liked watching you build this transmission. I'll be looking into having y'all build my 4L60E for my S10 with 35" mud tires. Being built for daily driving and overlanding adventure camping. Y'all not located that far from me. I'm just near the pocono raceway. Berwick isn't that far.
We are actually bloomsburg but close enough lol
Great job
Nice video and thanks for taking the time to put it out there. I was worried for a second when you tightened the valve body down and went on to do the harness without tightening the five 8mm headed bolts. Obviously, you caught that. It’s hard when you’re not following your normal routine. I always hate when someone interrupts means I freely admit I have trouble walking and chewing gum at the same time. 🤣🤣
I really think this young man is a born teacher. Does a great job.
Thank you! but its because i had a great teacher too
Hey, I like the video. I'm getting ready to rebuild my 4L65E out my 03' Yukon Denali. I had done it before 3 yrs ago. of course 3rd gear went out. the rebuild kit didn't have the proper thickness 3rd gear friction and steels to accommodate 7 friction. in a crunch I reused steel and used 6 which gave me (.058"). well it lasted 50k mile.
In your video your using 8 frictions, is the forward drum a special build? Are Raybestos Z-pak good? or not necessary?
Our setup in the 3/4 is very unique and requires machining to get the desired results. We sometimes use 6 forward frictions but mostly 5. Raybestos Z paks are great for the average street vehicle, towers, and daily drivers.
When I saw that you use the return springs, I knew you were the real deal.
Except he totally mis explains what they are for, they are NOTHING to do with centrifugal force, they are to slow up that clutch pack to give the band time to release.
@@jeffwhite9001 4
Just to prevent mis information the 2/ 3 and 3/4 overlap your describing purely comes from the how you do the hydraulics in the valvebody, clearances, and some tuning adjustments as well.
You my friend.. are the man
Good Video, just curious if you've seen the Beast sunshells broken ? I'm a full time builder, been at it a long time, and I've seen 3 or 4 Beast shells, either broken at one of the lugs that engage the reverse drum, or the splined area twisted and broken. I've been using the later GM shot peened shells or the Sonnax Smart tec
We have but very very rarely. About 3 times ive seen it over my career. Ours were caused by failed differentials and that of course took the bottom end out in general. The only thing i can think of to cause a beast fail is a manufactuer fault or very high rpm applications where the smart shell balancing is key whereas the beast is not balanced as well as the smartshell.
I never have torn into an automatic transmission and really didn't even know what they entailed inside. Great job explaining things and breaking it down into sections. I just got a 97 Yukon 4wd with a bad 460LE, it is crunching and grinding by the output shaft and putting in in park does no good. I was curious what a transmission rebuild entailed and you have given me an idea of what it will involve. Thanks for the great video.
Thank you!! Your rear ring gear and rear planet are probably damaged along with the low roller sprag. Your looking at a whole rebuild with heavy cleaning.
nice clean set up...I've watched other videos and there's oil every where on the bench. I guess it don't hurt nothin but clean looks better
It doesnt really hurt but yes i agree why not be neat about something with 600 peices that you could lose lol
Nevertheless frictions always need to be soaked in trans fluid prior to assembly (as far as I know) while they in fact look bone dry here - seems this video is only for demonstration purposes (?)
You're like the Picasso of the 4l60 lol.
Thank you
abstract? lol
Great job question on the servo are grinding the top of the pin down to get better clearance going in just asking
pins vary in length so yes they need ground with a wide band and different servo 99% of the time
For the double bushings in the rear sun gear, are they modified in any way or just pressed in one after the other?
Just pressed
I have a question I have a 2008 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4 work truck, when I engage the tow package when towing my trailor it starts to leak transmission fluid after about 10 miles of towing.
When I disengage it, it quits leaking. What would be the cause and how can I fix it. Could using flex fuel be the cause?
Where on the transmission does the leak appear to be comming from?
Awesome video very detailed on everything. So I have a 2001 Silverado 4x4 3rd 4th is gone along with reverse this isnt the original engine so is there any numbers on this transmission I can reference from other than 4l60e ?
The sticker on top of the case usually, but any 4l60E from 1997-2004 will work no problem
WELL DONE!!!.....
What a fucken shame this stuff isn't available in Australia. Wake up Aussies this Is what we need
We ship to austrailia but we dont sell our parts
Impressive!
How do you get the output to spin like that to check band. I can leave the servo out and it still wont free spin like that
When the endplay and clearances are just right it will spin freely like im doing. Since its still locked up with your servo out either the band is faulty or your endplay is too tight.
Hi man ive got a stock 4l60e with a shift kit & vetted servo. My question is, is it possible to a adjust the line pressure@ the valve body & how do I go about doing it?
it is possible but its the wrong way to adjust line pressure, however you simply turn the torx screw on the epc solenoid. You should always adjust line pressure through your pumps boost valve or the vehicles TCM but not both and not the epc.
A 4l60e from a '98 s10 (60 degree bellhousing) vs a typical bellhousing 4l60e (both 2wd) is everything the same internally and the stage kits will all work or is there a difference. I'm swapping a 3800 in my s10 and I'm debating on building the 60e in it with a stg3 kit or just buy a th350 with the trans adapter plate. Motor makes 500hp rn but I do plan on making more very soon.
everything is the same
You can tell he loves new parts. He just talking and rubbing his reverse input drum..
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions hahahahaha!!!! I see..
You should change the low rev wave plate for a regular steel it hold the clutches applied while the band is engaging makes better shift and less wear on band and clutches
we do for transbrakes or by if i feel the need based on the application im building for.
LOL! I have resorted myself to watching you build a 4L60 nearly every time I am in the middle of one. I will likely grow out of this as my experience progresses but I find a certain amount of (zen???) when I watch the video first. I sure would enjoy building one or two together with a builder like you. I have for the most part taught myself (I never attended an official trans training course) to build with videos such as this and whatever books or paper work I could find. I’m sure I could pick up some valuable information. I see the Performabuilt name is really getting around, or at least I have noticed hearing it more often (no disrespect). Congratulations on that bc none of what I’m hearing is negative. Thanks for taking the time! ……..Rosco
Good honest work is the true secret to climbing to the top
I see what you did there! Nice!
Is that your zen to me? I may be way off. The written word can be confusing at times.
A little zen. Enjoy it and put your best into it and things always work out
Is that Rear sun gear bushing two bushing stacked? Doesn't look like sonnax's wide bushing
Yes it is its a little wider than sonnax, just make sure the oil slots line up
LOVE VIDEO!!!! only thing is on band clearance. drum is never centered without pump..
Been at it for a while.. never was able to spin the output shaft like that WOW!!!
Oh its the bearings vs thrust washers
Band clearance has more room for play as it should be a tad looser than the 3rd clutch clearance to help with band overlap. We have been doing it so long with so many 4l60s you sorta just know when its perfect after awhile!
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions 🤝🏼🤝🏼yeah !! I got you
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions output shaft was hard to turn but it was not holding the reverse drum because it was turning free
I'm getting a rebuild on my transmission on a 94 lt1 z28 small cam...is this the right transmission the shop shipped off to get a level 2 upgrade?
check out our facebook or ask around the web, we have a flawless reputation.
Fascinating video, if have a question,do you pre soak the frictions. Other rebuilders do, is it necessary or not, Iam trying to understand automatic transmissions, great video
When you have a dyno it is not nessecary as you run it for an extended period of time with no load. If directly installing into a vehicle i would soak them as its a different enviorment.
Do you guys still use the sonnax o ring servos pins with your new servos
We no longer do
Ryan, exceptional video. Somebody recently re-built 4L60e. Bad experience, the truck wouldn’t shift & seemed like it was stuck on 2nd even when shifted down to 1st. I drove for about 5 mins and fluid shot out of breather with pieces of what seems like material on belt, any ideas what went wrong? I had to take down after initial re-install to take back to him, wish I would have seen tour video before this issue.
Not a common problem thats for sure. It was definitely a bind up which when pressured up can cause fluid to spew out the tube and probably builder error but there could be many things that cause that like a torn lip seal in the input drum for example. I can diagnose common issues when the trans is built correctly but builder error is one thing that gets extremely hard to diagnose by description because a lot of them make very uncommon mistakes. Not many people can build these. I wish i could help more but im at a loss to exactly what is causing your problem without actually diving into the unit. I would suggest a different builder.
Nice video. Very detailed. Never seen an impact used to assemble a transmission before. How do you know the torque values are correct?
air system is regualted for our primary unit we build the 4l60 to speed up production. All higher volume shops have this
What 3-4 clutch boost spring are you running? They look taller than oem
Thanks!
They are custom springs exclusive to us we get manufactured locally
For the pump alignment....I build the pump first. I finger tighten the bolts that hold the two pump halves together...I install the pump in the BARE case with no O-ring. I finger tighten the pump to case bolts. I run a long extension through the rear of the case where the output shaft goes and torque down the pump bolts!
cool technique. i may try that sometime, i dont exactly understand the extension part though
You have to use an extension because you are slightly tightening the pump half bolts through the opening on the rear of the case where the output shaft is. The pump is installed as usual in an empty case because u are using the case pump bore for an alignment tool. Then you remove pump and use torque wrench for final torque.
Okay so I have a 4l60e in my 2007 chevy avalanche and it just went out 2 days ago but I had a 700r4 rebuilt about a month ago, will the clutch packs from the 700r4 fit and work for the 4l60e?
Yes they will fit and it will work for a little while anyway. Depends if your build it right.
Great video, question, Is there a difference between a 2006 Trailblazer 4.2l 4l60e transmission and a 2007 trailblazer 4l60e transmission?
Yes the bell housing is different and the overall setup inside regarding frictions and hardparts will be different as well.
I plan on doing a cammed 6.0 with a 212 218 ish range cam in my extended cab Silverado, I'm very interested in a stage 2 transmission I don't beat the piss out of my truck but I plan on letting my foot get heavy on the throttle and letting my tires spin once in awhile, how long would this trans last under these conditions?
It will last many years if you service the Filter and Fluid once a year at least.
Ingenious
Thank You!
Will this rebuild also work with a early 2 piece 4l60e?
Yes all the parts are the same and compatible with eachother. The only difference from this build compared to yours will be the solenoids used and the inputshaft/pump stator.
Do you presoak the frictions and bands on your builds?
We use a dyno and can run it with no load so not typically. If I was building for a direct install into a vehicle I would soak them.
When talking about the garbage aluminum pistons, you are meaning "bonded"? I'm rebuilding my 60 currently and am sourcing my parts have everything sorted I think but I'm stuck on this bonded piston vs molded.. please help.... Lol
We only use bonded pistons and its the only way to go. in the earlier 4l60Es prior 97 and the 700R4 they used aluminum with removable lip seals that just dont hold up like the steel bonded do.
Do you always build dry or do you pre soak the clutch packs? And why?
I have answered this probably over 500 times in the comments. if installing directly into a vehicle yes i soak, if i am bench building where it will go on a dyno with no load, then i do not soak. for a more in depth explanation please find the longer explanations in the comments.
I have a stock 5L40e on my VE CALAIS V6, would a 4L60e built be the best application to put power into? Do you ship to Australia and where can i get a price on this transmission.
we do ship to austrailia and a 60 is fine for 99% of applications. our website is www.performabuilt.com
Would pre soaking the band be a good idea?
I would if installing direct into a vehicle but we have a dyno and bring it on with no load so no need to soak.
I’m just curious should you always soak the clutches, or is that up to the builders discretion.
If installing direct into a vehicle i would absolutely soak them but we dyno test and i have more control over the trans on startup in that aspect. we run them for the better part of an hour and with no load at first they get soaked plenty fast with actual pressure. We have done this for years with great results and dry frictions let you measure clearances and drag more accurately.
I have a question for you guys. I love the builds and have watched and saved all you 4l60e videos. I have a stock 2003 Silverado. I just finished rebuilding the transmission. I have only built a few auto transmissions before. I have the transgo, shift correction kit and the sonex pump upgrades with the spring spacer the new valve the transgo .500 heavy duty boost valve and different springs. I used the Drake performance clutch and rebuild kit for everything else. I also bought the upgraded aluminum diaphragm with the o ring and the corvette almunium high perfromace super servo. and the sonnax billet overrun piston kit. I upgraded to a 5 pinion planetary gear set with the heavy duty shell. a towing lock up converter from drake. I just installed the transmission. everything shifts smoothly when in 1st 2nd or 3rd. but when I put it in drive and it shifts something is cutting power to the engine. Almost like its a traction control issue the truck is still running perfect it just cuts out, just wont go under light load.it actually works perfect if I hammer the throttle. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. if I take off in 3rd it runs and shifts perfectly.
first thing to do is definitely get a scanner on it and check codes.
make yourself a manual switch shift box. Lots of vids on here that explain it. Easily google your wiring diagram. I say this with respect and humility as I rebuilt my trans, just back to stock with the usual updates and one morning it just lost 2nd and 3rd gears. At around 20,000 miles with perfect shifting up to the night before. The reason is my ECU lost its flash. My trans was fine. Well, driving it like I did for several weeks while replacing Servo seals, apply pin, solenoids, etc. lost some life as it crapped out within 70,000 miles. But, then I wired up the switch box and found out it was actually shifting and performing perfectly. Every shop I took it to to get the scanner put on it was telling me it was in need of rebuild. Swapped out ECU with a re-flashed unit and everything shifted perfectly again for 50,000 more miles. Ultimately, my TCC valve bore was worn, had put the spring in it to lock it out, but still acting up and causing the in and out of overdrive issue that it had at the end of its original 365,000 original miles. Worn valve body. Over 435,000 miles on it now. Anyway, Good tool to have if you are into this as deep as you are apparently. Good luck! I am rebuilding again with all upgraded HP parts. Learned a little on my first one. I hope to do better on next one
JUST EPIC ...
Which transmission would you recommend for 800 to 900 hp daily driver? I won't be racing or anything, it's going in an 86 C10. Thanks
Our level 3 4L60E would be just fine or our Heavy Hauler Max if your doing some towing too. Both can be veiwed at www.performabuilt.com
What sonnax input drum and shaft I use for a 1996 4l60e car. 500hp 9000rpm . Please provide the part number. Will 2000 and up 4l60e imput drum and shaft fit?
I dont have it off hand and i am a busy guy, you can buy everything through Sonnax's website, and you will need a pre 1997 298mm input shaft. A year 2000 4l60E will not work for your application unless you have swapped in an LS motor then you will need an LS 300mm shaft. I would need to know those things first in order to help you but i will not guarentee it holds because i dont know your experience as a builder as well.
My Pbuilt lvl II and FTI 3k converter is awsome for LS1 .
The best part was the note on the filter found on first fluid change that said " party too hard ?"
😂.
Oh wow. I think me and jeff did that about 2 or 3 yrs ago 😂 sometimes you get something a lil extra with a Performabuilt
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions
Yes it was about 3 years ago. Awsome sence of humor!
would you reccomend putting a corvette servo in a 4l60e?
'
Yes its a great small upgrade as long as its installed correctly
Nice
Thank you for the video, where do you dispose of the old transmission fluid? I'm having trouble getting rid of mine
We have some local buisnesses that pick up our fluid for oil burning to heat their shops
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions thank you for your response
Gotta pretty ignorant question. I'm not real familiar how transmissions work when in the process of building them. But I was wondering if you could still use all those aftermarket components, without a shift kit, and still use a regular torque converter? I want firm, smooth, quick shifts, but I don't want the hard impact of a shift kit and I don't want the high rev of a 2600 stall.
Actually a great question. Yes absolutely you can. The components themselves with no shift kit are very beneficial and will firm the transmission shifts up and increase holding power because of the increase in surface area of the components being applied. you can opt for a better HD converter with a stock stall speed or reuse your old one to retain that stock stall feel. haveing a different torque converter only is beneficial in the stall speed that your application needs and better ones have a better backing plate for lockup at higher horepower. otherwise they do the same job.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions
Hey man, you're answer to my question definitely helped. I ended up having the local trans shop do a stage 2 build on a 700R4 without the stall in the converter, or the shift kit. The guy who did the build was kindly confused, whereas builds like that in my area usually consist of higher h.p. and speed applications.
But if you've got the time, to answer, I've come a across a 2000 stall torque converter. Oddly enough, I've also came by a stage 1 shift kit for 700R4 applications. I've bought the converter, but I haven't bought the stage 1 shift kit, only because I wasn't unsure whether or not it would work with a stage 2 build. That probably seems like be question with a simple answer, but don't have a clue. With a stage 1 shift kit work with a stage 2 build?
Ok . Thanks
I rebuilt my 4L60E, it now shifts great. Unfortunately, I have the same symptom as before, transmission or gear fluid slowly dripping from the extension housing/transfer case meeting point. I read somewhere that this was supposedly a 'dry' area. Any ideas? Could it be the transfer case fluid?
It depends on the type of transfer case you have. Some are sealed off for gear fluid and others feed off the atf fluid. In either case there must be a gasket and Orange o ring sealing the adapter on either end.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions thank you
Clutches look dry did you torque anything? Or did I miss something
They are because we soak them on our dyno with no load, installing dry gives more accurate clearance information as well. If i was directly installing into a vehicle i do recommend soaking them. As with all high volume shops that specialize in a particular trans we have a regulated air system and low torque 1/4 guns that are very reliable and accurate for the specs on the 4L60 bolts. All high volume shops have this.
Is a vette servo a must for a 4l60e?
it helps but is not the end all be all. There are many variations and better versions of the 2nd gear servo. Its more important the pressures and hydraulics are up to par rather than hardparts.
Would you say it usually make more sense to build a 4L80?
It depends on the application and what your trying to do with it. I usually follow the 60 for cars/ light trucks not exceeding 5000lbs or so and the 80 for the very heavy vehicles like suburbans, tahoes, etc. the biggest factors when determining what trans to build is mostly rearend, weight, and driving style. The junkyard 80 doesnt exist anymore as they are getting over 20 years old. Its starting to cost just as much money to build 80s and with todays parts and know-how the 60 and 80 are equally reliable if they are built for how they will be used.
If I order a 700hp transmission and I have a sonnax smart shell and a 5 pinion how much horsepower will it hold in a 05 corvette convertible
700hp. Those parts are a small part of the holding power overall
I was wondering how much would cost to rebuild my 1998 chevy 4x4 trans 4L60?I want a upgrade to stage 2
2395.00. All prices and builds are available at www.performabuilt.com
I realize that your modifications are based on many hours of R&D and that information belongs to the company. I only want to ask about the Transgo separator plate. I am interested in your opinion on using them on a stock build, especially when the check ball that commonly punches through the plate does just that. Is it better to just repair the plate and reuse it on a stock build?
I love them actually and use them whenever the stock plate is not useable
What is the cost for a phase 3 build using my fully functional 4L60E transmission...?
3195.00 www.performabuilt.com
What are the main points in the pump mods?
Not obligated to discuss that. Its parts of our success
I also wanted to ask if there are any books or other sources of study to help someone like me that wants to learn. As I stated on another comment I am a professional technician but transmission work is subbed out usually. I have rebuilt around 10 to 15 of the 4l60e transmissions. I seem to learn something new on everyone right now. I have also rebuilt a few other units along the way. I have already purchased a good many tools including the tools for the Teflon seals on the input drum and stator. Just trying to learn all I can.
i would buy a book with actual fluid diagrams in it and study how it works and it will slowly start comming together for you. atsg and transmission bench on youtube are great beginner videos as well.
Two questions: 1) do you offer the option of mailing in a transmission and having it built? Trying to retain my ‘96 4L60e in my ‘96 2dr. 2) do you make any modifications or substitute parts to fix the common TCC solenoid issue where the bore wears out?
yes and yes to both questions. you can find most information on our website at www.performabuilt.com
PerformaBuilt Transmissions gotcha, thank you. Don’t want it to sound like I’m questioning your expertise and experience, because I’m certainly not in a place to do so, I’m just trying to learn about these units, but, regarding blocking off the PWM/TCC regulator valve. I’ve read in at least one place that can cause other issues due to over pressure. Is that the fix you do or do you recommend something like the sonnax regulator and isolator valve? If you’re unable to answer, no big deal, again, just trying to learn.
never heard of overpressure and everyone on the planet sticks that valve in the valve body so pwm doesnt pulse anymore. 99% of people and builders dont know its actually not the valve that is the issue for leaks or function but its actually the cap that leaks and gets worn out that is the real problem. As for the pump valve for tcc that does get worn out and a sonnax valve with seal is the best way to address that
PerformaBuilt Transmissions makes sense. Sonnax is the source for that overpressure issue I mentioned: www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/214-20-years-later-what-s-new-with-4l60-e-pwm-modifications
Since watching this video (several times) I have been striving to get my 3/4 clearance between 0.020-0.025. I have only been doing this w/ a 6 friction pack and have had good results using only the thickest GM backing plate (I think it’s 0.230 ish). So far I haven’t had any complaints but I worry that bc I don’t know some of the things you guys have learned that I may eventually get into a situation. Not asking for any trade secrets here just an opinion. Next one I am considering using the Sonnax apply/backing and 7 frictions though. You think am pushing it running that snug w 6 frictions? I am not building for race cars. Mostly daily drivers, now and then a souped up truck.
.030 is still very excellent. Tighter clearance is going to affect 6 or 8 frictions the same way.
Do you block the 3-4 accumulator?
Yes
hey man, love the videos. got a couple questions if you dont mind. 03 gmc 1500. 5.3 auto 4l60e. has flare up shifting. 1-2 then 2-3. sometimes takes about 3-4 seconds to take gear and sometimes it is normal. All gears hold strong after shifting with no slipping. Could this be 2-4 servo or accumulator pistons? What's your thoughts.
To be Honest It sounds like you dont have enough fluid in the unit or a clogged filter
I am pulling pan down this week. Fluid is full and looks good.
you wont really be able to tell the actual condition of the fluid on the stick, pan needs dropeed
Just wondering, I know this is a 2nd gen 4l60e and I have a one piece transmission 1st gen. Is the build almost the same or is it a totally diffrent animal
They are the same in almost every way david
Would it fit a 6.0 lq9?
PerformaBuilt Transmissions ?
bryan hernandez yes Bryan 4l60e bolts direct to lq9 6.0 at least I believe🤪
Great vid thanks... Can you answer a question for me ,Have a 85 IROC had for 20 years it always shifts firm even at light throttle cable is adjusted properly what can be causing this ?
Firm is not always bad at all, but if the trans IS stock then your TV is probably too tight and its pushing on the throttle valve prematurely causing more pressure at part throttle. If the TV is adjusted properly then you may have a broken accumulator spring if its only on the 1-2 shift. If its ALL gears then your TV is definitely not adjusted properly. If the trans is not stock then it probably has a bigger boost valve and slight shift kit which nothing to worry about.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Thank you for the reply back I appreciate it ,, Could have had a shift kit ,,BTW which is the 1-2 accumulator the bottom one or the one on top of the valve body plate ? So I can check it out
the one on top of the VB plate with 3 10mm bolts. the bottom in the case is 4th
Thank you
I’m using this in my c10 running about 900hp would this build sustain this or is it level 3
Level 3
What is the parts kit number . Where you purchased.
I have a 9000 rpm motor. Will this be good for it. Will it hold. 500hp
I dont use a particular kit but rather parts i specifically select for a particular application and we dont sell parts. If you want our build then you have to buy our build. At 9000 RPM you will need a better build than the one shown in the video. You would need our level 3 even though your not near the power those high rpms are stressful.
I really enjoyed the video was really detailed.i believe I could build my trans off of watching your video. Thanks a lot
Thank you and good luck to you
What do you think of the sonnex smart input drum? Is it really necessary some people say yes some say no others only use it in high HP applications. Im really doubtful that flex is an issue when using a new thicker 3/4 backplate and setting tighter clearance. Is the stock input drum really that bad?
We use the super drum over 900whp based on 4klbs. The stock drum sleeved is just fine if built properly to handle up to 900whp based on 4klbs. Not many people can build a 4l60E right and the internet is full of false information.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions so I should be good with a stock input drum (im making under 500hp) the last drum I built I used hi-per blue pistons new steels Alto HEG for the overrun and forward but 3/4 are raybestos GPZ100 with a clearance of about .038 I also used new apply/backing plates. Its only been 2 or 3 months but seems to be holding up. The reason why I was asking is bacause im doing a new build basically the same setup in the drum but with a thicker 3/4 backplate (.220) im shooting for .25 to .030 clearance but I was concerned about the drum, Ive had people tell me never to use it that its no good etc etc.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions BTW I dont know if you ever came across this but in my first build I did that was actually built by a shop and then failed with less that 10k miles I found that the 3/4 apply piston had prematurely gone bad. When I took it apart I could not see anything wrong until I checked sealing surface and the molded rubber was hard and fit loosely over the forward housing these were stock black rubber molded pistons, anyway thats the reason why im using hi-per blue pistons now, what do you think would have caused that?
I dont know how experienced you are in building so i really dont know if itll hold. The parts list sounds good but actually doing it is different.
If the molded rubber was hard then its an old piston that has been reused over and over.
Excellent presentation. Seems Sonnax gear is pretty good and robust. Just a question, do you do much mega strong 6L80E, maybe a Black Label level 4 that can support around 1,000hp. I know big torque is the trans killer. I am from Brisbane Australia. PS - that is one hell of a clean workshop, and case and parts, strangely enough that alone inspires confidence.
We do not do the 6l80 as they still have so many problems that need addressed. Thank you though for the compliment, we run a tight ship!
Yeh I've had my VE Commodore Calais V with 6L80E for 12 years now. 2 complete new trans when you could buy them ; and 2 upgrade rebuilds. Yup expensive exercises. Thanks anyway. I will be watching your videos as this one is excellent!!!