Of course I do not know all of the electronics channels on RUclips, but I am totally at ease with your channel, Mr Caldera. The way you are presenting your hobby is kind of teaching and soothing at the same time... i don't know how to put it better. Anyhow, excellent job!
Manuel, your audio was so clear I could hear the wind howling in the background it would seem you’re close enough to the Atlantic to get some good storms. Thanks for the entertaining video during this storm that were all experiencing. Keep safe
Yes, it was really howling yesterday. These storms are not frequent, but some can be a little intimidating :) What you heard was after I tried to remove noise from the audio. The original was a bit much.
Hi Manuel - here's something that might be of interest. I have used your design with good results but in some German radios, the interference persists, however I have come up with a solution when it's the case that the "magic eye" gets switched off during P.U. selection. I route the B+ feed from the magic eye to the 240V coiof a mechanical relay and use the normally closed contacts on the relay to switch the 6.3v a.c line to the Bluetooth module. This works beautifully as the module is now off during selection of Am and Fm switches but energised when P.U./ Bluetooth is selected. It also has the effect of "announcing "the bluetooth activity when this function is chosen. Greetings from Ireland, - Rodney Warren.
Rodney, you’re a genius! I’ve been hassled by this phenomenon before, and know that it’s caused by the fact that these German sets usually have a foil antenna on the inside. Especially when the space is small, the digital noise from the BT module gets picked up by the antenna, and can sometimes be heard. I’ve been thinking about how to activate a switch only when PU is selected, but never thought of the magic eye B+. Great solution, thanks. Keep safe.
Hi again Rodney. I saw the video and a thought occurred to me. You mention that the relay draws about 20mA when operating. This may be a problem as the entire B2+ section only draws 27mA, so another 20mA will cause a further 26V drop from B1+ to B2+. It also represents a further 25% draw in current from the transformer, which may damage it. I thought of an idea to apply your principle but use a transistor as a switch for the relay. Also the relay could be a simple low voltage one as it will be powered from the actual heater supply, which has lots of current to spare. I was thinking of putting these doodles in a video but want to ask your permission first. I will obviously credit you for the idea itself. Otherwise, you could also develop this further yourself and put it up on your channel. Let me know what you think.
@@electronicsoldandnew Hi again, I had the opportunity to check the drain from the relay in and out f circuit and you are correct in that there is a drop of exactly 20 volts on the B2+ line, so I will substitute a much smaller relay when it eventually arrives from China as I suspect the consumption will be much smaller. In the meantime please feel free to develop this idea on your excellent channel and I will look forward to seeing what emerges. Cheers from Rod.
After seeing your map I decided to look you up on Google maps, nice looking place. Obviously yours is the one with the big pool. Ha Ha Ha, thanks for sharing enjoy your weekend. Charles
Ola Caldeira!!!!! Foi uma surpresa saber que voce fala portugues, e ainda que mora na ilha da madeira. Aqui na cidade de São Paulo temos uma grande comunidade portuguesa da ilha da madeira, inclusive tenho amigos. Este projeto vou estudar com bastante atenção para poder replicar, eu tenho uma coleção de radios valvulados e transistor dos anos 60, esta coleção tem mais de 450 radios. Sou engenheiro eletronico e tenho uma empresa de automação industrial, no momento estamos em quarentena por ordem do governo, vou aproveitar este tempo para assistir seus videos e trabalhar na manutenção de minha coleção. Saudações e abraços ao povo da ilha da madeira.
FERNANDO BERNARDES : Cumprimentos da Madeira. Sua coleção parece muito interessante e esta é de facto uma excelente oportunidade de cuidar dela. Espero que continue a apreciar os vídeos. Abraço Manuel
Hello Manuel, I just ordered the PCB boards from PCBWAY today for this project. I also ordered the LM 7805 voltage regulator along with the B0505S power supply module which was an easy find on Amazon. However I can't find a B500R bridge rectifier diode for sale. Do I have to use a B500R or is there a substitute that I can use? For example I see some listed on Amazon and elsewhere as "2W10 2AMP 100O VOLT FULL WAVE SILICONE DIODES". I have no experience working with components such as these. I live in the U.S.A. and apparently the B500R is only found in Europe. Thank You.
You can use just about any small bridge rectifier that has the same pin outs (make sure the positive and negative fit in the correct points on the board)
I really appreciate the time you take making these videos and sharing your knowledge. I’ve just ordered 10 pcb’s using your files, looking forward to putting these together. Any tips on location within the cabinet to fix the board to reduce chance of interference? Do you fix with double sided foam tape? I have learnt so much from your videos. I only started out during lockdown last year and now have 3 beautifully restored German radios. Just bought a Saba Freiburg W3 export model as my next project.
I downloaded the gerber and got the pin locations for power and audio out for the MH28. Thank you so much! Why dont you use SMDs? JLCB is doing assembly for free for 10 boards. I also have one more question. So, I am connecting MH28 line out to an amp and also a 3.5 mm audio in option. Now, if I connect audio in through the 3.5 mm jack, will the current not also flow to the MH28 module? Will that be a problem? And if it is should I use some sort of diodes to make the current flow in one way and not the other? Thank you so much for your help so far.
Hello, another great video! I would love to purchase a few of these bluetooth PCB's along with your PCB's for replacing the Selenium rectifiers. I notice you mention that the Gerber files are for us to download but I do not have much knowledge about computer files and such. I have never even heard of a "Gerber" file. Am I able to just simply buy these boards already made to you specifications from the same vendor you purchased them from? As always your videos are simply the best, thank you!
I see on the website that they offer the board for the rectifier but I do not see the availability of this Bluetooth board. I am looking in the section that has all of your projects. Is there another section that I may find it in? Thanks and sorry for the trouble on this.
Another great idea and I appreciate you taking the time to continually improve your ideas. Question on bluetooth with these old radios. I've found that even with the phone (or ipad, etc) volume all the way up, I have to turn the radio volume very high to get a decent volume level. Is that typical? Any chance your build solves that problem? Many thanks.
In many radios as one line for tubes heating is used a chassis. In this case for BT I use a simply on-half rectifier with 2200u/16V elko. in this case DC/DC converter is not needed and 7805 makes this job well. Thanks & Regards,
Wojciech Taras : I’ve done that before but did not like the buzz that the common ground produces. That’s why I use the dc-dc converter which isolates the grounds and produces no noise.
With my solution is same times very difficult to provide a proper grounding w/o (or with minimal) buzz. I guess you do not have any problems with RFI from DC/DC converter. Thanks for video & regards. Stay Safe! @@electronicsoldandnew
No, I don’t. Generally you could connect to the top of the volume pot, but then you’d get the radio signal coming through simultaneously if you don’t switch it out.
Hi Manuel, pardon the off topic... I opened an eabc80 can in a telefunken concertino to replace an electrolytic that was dead, when put everything in place I don't have any reception... What are the odds that I detuned the if circuits? Thank you
You may have, but should still be able to hear something, especially strong stations in your area area. You could have simply created a short as the space in there is pretty tight.
How much power needs the bluetooth-module? The 1000 micro-Farad looks by far to big for me. Also the 7805 could be the 78L05 version. Or am i wrong? In the 80s and 90s i had to design pc-boards (part of my job). Mostly europe-cards or double europe-cards were my daily business. In two to 4 layers. By hand and later with a cad-system. Hach...... memories......
I actually measured the current at some point but can’t remember now. It’s definitely less than 100mA, so the smaller regulator could be used, and also a smaller cap. But ... just to be absolutely safe I prefer the bigger one :) Memories ... I understand. The trick is to keep doing things that will be good memories in the future. Right now, I’m the middle of this crazy crisis, we are comfortably at home and have our 20 year old daughter with us, and she’s been here for almost a month. Who knows if that will ever happen again? I think this will, one day, be another good memory. Crazy, isn’t it?
@@electronicsoldandnewSince the March, 1, i'm a pensioner. Now i may not leave the house, when i have time. The daughter of my better half with the grandson are living 1000km from here on Sylt. And we can not visit them at his birthday. It's more then crazy. Keep safe and healthy.
i want to know if you would be interested in diagnosing and dialing in a marantz 250 power amp for me?i would be glad to pay you for your labor and any parts
I’m in Madeira which makes shipping costs prohibitive, I’m afraid. I did a couple of videos on a Marantz 250M which someone had hacked. Don’t know if you’ve seen them. I don’t know where you’re based, but I suggest you look at some forums for someone competent near you who could do the repair.
Of course I do not know all of the electronics channels on RUclips, but I am totally at ease with your channel, Mr Caldera. The way you are presenting your hobby is kind of teaching and soothing at the same time... i don't know how to put it better. Anyhow, excellent job!
Thank you Otto.
Thanks for sharing your board files Manuel. Very kind of you. Your restorations are immaculate!
Thank you.
Manuel, your audio was so clear I could hear the wind howling in the background it would seem you’re close enough to the Atlantic to get some good storms. Thanks for the entertaining video during this storm that were all experiencing. Keep safe
Yes, it was really howling yesterday. These storms are not frequent, but some can be a little intimidating :)
What you heard was after I tried to remove noise from the audio. The original was a bit much.
Very nice. Thank you for sharing!
My pleasure.
Hi Manuel - here's something that might be of interest.
I have used your design with good results but in some German radios, the interference persists, however I have come up with a solution when it's the case that the "magic eye" gets switched off during P.U. selection.
I route the B+ feed from the magic eye to the 240V coiof a mechanical relay and use the normally closed contacts on the relay to switch the 6.3v a.c line to the Bluetooth module. This works beautifully as the module is now off during selection of Am and Fm switches but energised when P.U./ Bluetooth is selected. It also has the effect of "announcing "the bluetooth activity when this function is chosen.
Greetings from Ireland, - Rodney Warren.
Rodney, you’re a genius!
I’ve been hassled by this phenomenon before, and know that it’s caused by the fact that these German sets usually have a foil antenna on the inside. Especially when the space is small, the digital noise from the BT module gets picked up by the antenna, and can sometimes be heard.
I’ve been thinking about how to activate a switch only when PU is selected, but never thought of the magic eye B+.
Great solution, thanks.
Keep safe.
@@electronicsoldandnew
I've put up a short video to illustrate the process.
ruclips.net/video/3I08F9hgDTU/видео.html
@@rodsradios That is a wonderfully simple solution! Thank you for sharing. :)
Hi again Rodney. I saw the video and a thought occurred to me. You mention that the relay draws about 20mA when operating. This may be a problem as the entire B2+ section only draws 27mA, so another 20mA will cause a further 26V drop from B1+ to B2+. It also represents a further 25% draw in current from the transformer, which may damage it.
I thought of an idea to apply your principle but use a transistor as a switch for the relay. Also the relay could be a simple low voltage one as it will be powered from the actual heater supply, which has lots of current to spare.
I was thinking of putting these doodles in a video but want to ask your permission first. I will obviously credit you for the idea itself.
Otherwise, you could also develop this further yourself and put it up on your channel. Let me know what you think.
@@electronicsoldandnew Hi again,
I had the opportunity to check the drain from the relay in and out f circuit and you are correct in that there is a drop of exactly 20 volts on the B2+ line, so I will substitute a much smaller relay when it eventually arrives from China as I suspect the consumption will be much smaller. In the meantime please feel free to develop this idea on your excellent channel and I will look forward to seeing what emerges.
Cheers from Rod.
After seeing your map I decided to look you up on Google maps, nice looking place. Obviously yours is the one with the big pool. Ha Ha Ha, thanks for sharing enjoy your weekend. Charles
It's a great place. You should visit Madeira when this crazy period is over.
PS: No pool, but the entire Atlantic Ocean is practically in front of me.
Ola Caldeira!!!!!
Foi uma surpresa saber que voce fala portugues, e ainda que mora na ilha da madeira.
Aqui na cidade de São Paulo temos uma grande comunidade portuguesa da ilha da madeira, inclusive tenho amigos.
Este projeto vou estudar com bastante atenção para poder replicar, eu tenho uma coleção de radios valvulados e transistor dos anos 60, esta coleção tem mais de 450 radios.
Sou engenheiro eletronico e tenho uma empresa de automação industrial, no momento estamos em quarentena por ordem do governo, vou aproveitar este tempo para assistir seus videos e trabalhar na manutenção de minha coleção.
Saudações e abraços ao povo da ilha da madeira.
FERNANDO BERNARDES : Cumprimentos da Madeira. Sua coleção parece muito interessante e esta é de facto uma excelente oportunidade de cuidar dela. Espero que continue a apreciar os vídeos.
Abraço
Manuel
Hello Manuel,
I just ordered the PCB boards from PCBWAY today for this project. I also ordered the LM 7805 voltage regulator along with the B0505S power supply module which was an easy find on Amazon. However I can't find a B500R bridge rectifier diode for sale. Do I have to use a B500R or is there a substitute that I can use? For example I see some listed on Amazon and elsewhere as "2W10 2AMP 100O VOLT FULL WAVE SILICONE DIODES". I have no experience working with components such as these. I live in the U.S.A. and apparently the B500R is only found in Europe. Thank You.
You can use just about any small bridge rectifier that has the same pin outs (make sure the positive and negative fit in the correct points on the board)
I really appreciate the time you take making these videos and sharing your knowledge. I’ve just ordered 10 pcb’s using your files, looking forward to putting these together. Any tips on location within the cabinet to fix the board to reduce chance of interference? Do you fix with double sided foam tape?
I have learnt so much from your videos. I only started out during lockdown last year and now have 3 beautifully restored German radios. Just bought a Saba Freiburg W3 export model as my next project.
Keep it away from the RF front-end if possible. Enjoy.
I downloaded the gerber and got the pin locations for power and audio out for the MH28. Thank you so much! Why dont you use SMDs? JLCB is doing assembly for free for 10 boards. I also have one more question. So, I am connecting MH28 line out to an amp and also a 3.5 mm audio in option. Now, if I connect audio in through the 3.5 mm jack, will the current not also flow to the MH28 module? Will that be a problem? And if it is should I use some sort of diodes to make the current flow in one way and not the other? Thank you so much for your help so far.
good sound
En el PCB dejaría sin cobre el area que ocupa la antena del BT, podría atenuar la señal. Saludos desde Buenos Aires. Muy buenos videos!
tienes toda la razón. ¡Debo corregir eso en V3.0!
Gracias.
I've just realised that the board does not use a ground plane, specifically to avoid blocking the BT board antenna. No V3.0 version needed :)
Hello, another great video! I would love to purchase a few of these bluetooth PCB's along with your PCB's for replacing the Selenium rectifiers. I notice you mention that the Gerber files are for us to download but I do not have much knowledge about computer files and such. I have never even heard of a "Gerber" file. Am I able to just simply buy these boards already made to you specifications from the same vendor you purchased them from? As always your videos are simply the best, thank you!
No, you need to go to PCBway.com and look for the shares projects. You can then simply order directly.
I see on the website that they offer the board for the rectifier but I do not see the availability of this Bluetooth board. I am looking in the section that has all of your projects. Is there another section that I may find it in?
Thanks and sorry for the trouble on this.
The actual Bluetooth module is not mine. I bought it on ebay. I did do the power supply board for it, and that is on the site.
@@electronicsoldandnew For some reason I just do not see the board for sale. It must be listed under somebody else's name?
Here is the link:
Another great idea and I appreciate you taking the time to continually improve your ideas.
Question on bluetooth with these old radios. I've found that even with the phone (or ipad, etc) volume all the way up, I have to turn the radio volume very high to get a decent volume level. Is that typical? Any chance your build solves that problem? Many thanks.
That is quite normal as the gain is a little low. With the module it is less so, but it could really do with a little preamp here.
@@electronicsoldandnew Thanks. Next beer is on me... time to open up your Patreon page!
😊
In many radios as one line for tubes heating is used a chassis. In this case for BT I use a simply on-half rectifier with 2200u/16V elko. in this case DC/DC converter is not needed and 7805 makes this job well. Thanks & Regards,
Wojciech Taras : I’ve done that before but did not like the buzz that the common ground produces. That’s why I use the dc-dc converter which isolates the grounds and produces no noise.
With my solution is same times very difficult to provide a proper grounding w/o (or with minimal) buzz. I guess you do not have any problems with RFI from DC/DC converter. Thanks for video & regards. Stay Safe! @@electronicsoldandnew
Very impressive.
Thank you.
Do you have an option to add BT on a radio without a PU in? Love your videos
No, I don’t. Generally you could connect to the top of the volume pot, but then you’d get the radio signal coming through simultaneously if you don’t switch it out.
Hi Manuel, pardon the off topic... I opened an eabc80 can in a telefunken concertino to replace an electrolytic that was dead, when put everything in place I don't have any reception... What are the odds that I detuned the if circuits? Thank you
You may have, but should still be able to hear something, especially strong stations in your area area. You could have simply created a short as the space in there is pretty tight.
@@electronicsoldandnew actually, I shifted ecc85 and eabc80 tubes... Alzheimer's with 36... Now working, thanks!
Happens to all of us :)
How much power needs the bluetooth-module? The 1000 micro-Farad looks by far to big for me. Also the 7805 could be
the 78L05 version. Or am i wrong?
In the 80s and 90s i had to design pc-boards (part of my job). Mostly europe-cards or double europe-cards were my daily business. In two to 4 layers. By hand and later with a cad-system. Hach...... memories......
I actually measured the current at some point but can’t remember now. It’s definitely less than 100mA, so the smaller regulator could be used, and also a smaller cap.
But ... just to be absolutely safe I prefer the bigger one :)
Memories ... I understand. The trick is to keep doing things that will be good memories in the future. Right now, I’m the middle of this crazy crisis, we are comfortably at home and have our 20 year old daughter with us, and she’s been here for almost a month. Who knows if that will ever happen again? I think this will, one day, be another good memory. Crazy, isn’t it?
@@electronicsoldandnewSince the March, 1, i'm a pensioner. Now i may not leave the house, when i have time. The daughter of my better half with the grandson are living 1000km from here on Sylt. And we can not visit them at his birthday. It's more then crazy.
Keep safe and healthy.
where can i buy this kit
ebay for the module and the boards from pcbway. See the latest video I did on the boards and it’s explained there.
15:45 headers
Yes, that’s it. Sometimes the words just escape me when I most need them, ie when filming.
@@electronicsoldandnew I hear you. Great videos by the way. Thank you
i want to know if you would be interested in diagnosing and dialing in a marantz 250 power amp for me?i would be glad to pay you for your labor and any parts
I’m in Madeira which makes shipping costs prohibitive, I’m afraid.
I did a couple of videos on a Marantz 250M which someone had hacked. Don’t know if you’ve seen them.
I don’t know where you’re based, but I suggest you look at some forums for someone competent near you who could do the repair.
IncompLete.