Power supply board for adding bluetooth module to a tube radio, with signal booster.
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
- Only $5 for 10 PCBs and every new member get $5 bonus. + Express 24 hour / 48 hour service on www.pcbway.com/
I previously designed and built a PCB to provide power to a Bluetooth receiver module, and serve as interface to a tube radio. The challenge is to isolate the supplies, to avoid the characteristic high frequency buss that these modules tend to produce.
It worked very well, except that the audio level when inputting through the phono input was a little low. I needed a booster for the signal, and this project does just that.
I have shared this project on PCBWays' website so that you can order your own boards, should you so wish. The link to these boards is:
www.pcbway.com/project/sharep...
NOTE:
1) A better op-amp choice would be a TL072 or NE5532.
2) The dual supply will not be +-9V, but rather closer to +-7V, which will work fine with these op-amps, but ...
3) Use an Rf of 33k rather than 47k, as some clipping can occur with the higher gain.
You can now support the channel:
/ mcaldeira
paypal.me/macaldeira
TimeStamps
00:00 Power supply board for adding bluetooth module to a tube radio, with signal booster. #PCBWay#
00:10 Introduction.
01:37 Looking at the PCB's.
06:28 The schematic explained.
15:32 Building the project.
20:13 Warnings.
21:19 Connecting to the radio.
22:25 Testing.
24:51 Conclusion.
#tuberadios #antiqueradio #radiorestoration
_____________________________________________________________
DIY TEST GEAR: The title says it all:
• Zener Diode Tester - P...
RESTORATION BUILDING BLOCKS: A series of videos showing detailed steps used the restoration process of tube equipment:
• How to safely check th...
HowTo's: Various videos on some simple techniques and projects:
• Extend tube radio FM b...
See also playlists on some other completed restoration projects.
PHILIPS BX750A:
• Philips BX750A tube ra...
TELEFUNKEN OPUS 2114:
• Telefunken Opus 2114 s...
SABA UW-175-Z 3D:
• Saba UW 175-Z 3D tube ...
GRUNDIG 1070:
• Grundig 1070 tube radi...
SCHAUB-LORENZ GOLDY 58 type 3020:
• Schaub-Lorenz Goldy 58...
BUSH VHF64:
• Bush VHF64 tube radio ...
GRUNDIG 3060A:
• Grundig 3060a tube rad...
TELEFUNKEN OPERETTE 8:
• Telefunken Operette 8 ...
GRAETZ SUPER 171W:
• Graetz Super 171W tube...
LOEWE-OPTA MAGNET 3737W:
• Loewe-Opta Magnet 3737...
BRAUN ATELIER 3:
• Braun Atelier 3
LOEWE-OPTA TRUXA STEREO 4741W:
• Loewe-Opta Truxa Stere...
GRAETZ COMEDIA 616:
• Graetz Comedia 616 tub...
SABA FREIBURG W2:
• Saba Freiburg W2 (WII)...
GRAETZ MUSICA 4R417:
• Graetz Musica 4R417 re...
You may also be interested in ...
CAPACITOR LEAKAGE TESTER:
• Capacitor leakage test... 
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Hi Manuel. I'm a Brazilian guy living in Germany, the country of one of the most interesting tube radios, as you should know. I recently bought a Graetz Comedia 4R-416 just to have some fun by restoring it. To do that I've started doing some research and I end up finding your channel and all I can say is that your work is AMAZING! Since last week I'm doing an intensive marathon on your channel and I just can't stop and I'm learning a lot. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, it's really making me back to my roots on electronics. Como você vive em Portugal, acredito que fale português, então deixo aqui um forte abraço e mais uma vez obrigado! Schöne Grüße aus Deutschland!
Obrigado Ricardo. Fico feliz por saber que ajudei no seu percurso. Abraço
This guy sounds just like me. I bought a Graetz Melodia 419 and then happened upon Manuel's videos and watch them every night parked up in my lorry .... that was 18 months and ten new (to me) German radios ago.
Wives everywhere are cursing Manuel as we spend their handbag money on more radios lol.
Let them curse 😊 Those tube radios will probably become the most valuable assets in the house very soon. These radios are moving rapidly into “investment” territory.
Hi Manuel, excellent solution and again I learned a couple of things from you today! Nice board!
👍
Hi Manuel, that looks like a great Bluetooth solution. I have ordered 10 delivered for under $20, Cheers and thank you.
My pleasure Dave. I got the BT modules on banggood, and have stocked up on quite a few so that this board will serve exactly as is for a while.
@@electronicsoldandnew You wouldn't happen to have the model number of the BT module would you, I have some, not that brand, but will need more and I can't find your module which will fit on your board without modification. Thanks Manuel
This is it:
www.ebay.com/itm/Sem-fio-Bluetooth-receptor-de-audio-de-4-2-Alto-falante-estereo-Placa-Modulo-Amplificador-/192869403373?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Hi Manuel, nice solution. I had just started, day before yesterday, to come up with a design for a booster, but as always you are one step ahead! At least I can repurpose the remain old boards for something. :) Back to breakfast...
Enjoy your cornflakes 😊
Hi Manuel, I ordered your new boards and was very happy with the results. The circuit also works great as a stand-alone for my home stereo and I can finally get the BT volume to match the tuner volume, no buzz or hum. Simply put a jumper between AC ground and the stereo ground pad and use an 6-8 volt AC wall plug. Kudos to you for the design and development.
Good to know. Always feels great to hear that someone found one of my projects useful.
Dziękuje za wspaniałe filmy i za wiedzę którą pan przekazuje pozdrawiam z Polski
I've been using this board for quite a while now in my radio restorations and I absolutely love it. Great design. 👍
Two suggestions / improvements from my experience with the PCB:
1) To reduce interference of the Bluetooth data signal on the audio, add a shield to the area where the Bluetooth module connects to the PCB and where the tracks which feed the amp circuit are located. I simply used metal tape. (This is the lower right area of the PCB)
2) Do not use an LM358, but rather a dedicated audio op-amp like NE5532A. It will eliminate crossover distortion for which the LM358 is very susceptible and will greatly improve your audio quality.
Thanks for the tips. I saw your experiences with a recent video where you mention these changes. I’ve not had the noise issue on my builds, but have been using audio opamp, like the TL072 and the NE5532 as I prefer them anyway. If and when I re-do the boards I will definitely make some changes.
The boards are on the way. I think it will be an excellent addition to Loewe Opta Meteor 781 W, 1781 W & Loewe Opta Hellas 3841 W especially!
Looking forward to working on this well designed interesting technology. Thank you very much Manuel. 😁🙋♂️👍
my Pleasure, Peter.
I designed a power supply board that uses the KRC-86B and it works well. I have installed it into three radios so far. Two Grundigs and a Telefunken. The volume was lower than the FM on two of them and was fine on the other. I found an APP called a Volume Booster, that allows me to adjust the volume level being transmitted and it works okay. I think the preamp to be a great idea to adjust the input for each radio or if choosing a different input such as the Tape input.
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profi job! Love seeing how you solve this, very educational.Looks great! i've recently done a bluetooth module fed by just a 1w 6v transformer, half wave rectification to a 7805 with some extra filtering. (snubber and bypass). The module is really quiet, but the blinking bluetooth led seems to be inducing a little noise. The radio has a tape input, it doesn't seem to drop the line level too much running on 5v, but the opamp is a nice solution. Might order them, thanks for sharing:)
👍
Hi Manuel, I’ve just completed one of these modules for my latest radio, I’ve posted some photos and a link to this video on the German radio Facebook group that you are a member of.
Its a Schaub Lorenz Rialto Stereo 10.
Hope I got the grounding correct, audio to the ground pin of the din socket and power circuit to chassis.
Took 33k to perfect the sound volume. I have installed your previous version in 3 other radios and I will now update those as the volume issue was quite noticeable.
Thanks for your design and your many videos that have helped me go from a complete novice to a serious hobbyist.
My pleasure
hey can you give me parts list ,stil trying to figure out what parts i need ,thanks
I’m afraid all the info I have is in the videos. Pause and screenshot to get the details.
Thanks for that. Very useful.
👍
solved my problem i used a phone charge took power of the mains of the radio works perfect
Viva, muito interessante a solução para alimentar o ampop. Voltage doubler, não conhecia e é uma excelente solução para evitar montar uma fonte simétrica de raiz. Gostei muito deste vídeo pelos conceitos e aplicabilidade.
👍
Ok Sir Manuel, and thank you for the design, I ordered 10 boards from the sponsor. Would you please be so kind to give us a quick BOM, i can't read on the silkscreen myself... :D Thank you!
Mr. Caldeira, Thank you for this project. I purchased your boards and I must say they are well thought out and well designed. All I can say is WOW! Finally no more buzz and significantly increased volume because of the amplification of your board. I ended up using 82k ohm resistors to maximize the output and I do not believe I am getting any distortion but more listening time will determine that. Would you recommend using an Oscilloscope to check for what value resistors to use to maximize output without distortion? If so, how should I do it?
Thank you again for your work to put this board together for us to purchase.
I don’t think you need a scope. Just listen and see what level sounds good without distortion. Glad it serves you well.
Manuel, nice job I only wish I could populate a board as quickly as you do.
It’s magic. The cat helped 😊
I wish I could populate a board even slowly lol.
😊
Those RF resisters you could put a stereo pot because not all radios have the same level.
That’s why I make them removable. Once you set the desired gain, there’s no reason to adjust again.
I think a cristal cartridge is rated 2-3 Volt RMS. It is needed to drive the pre-amp tube.
Line level is 0.316 Volt RMS.
The gain of 4.7 seems to give it the right level for this radio.
You are always thoughtful in your designs so I’m wondering why you chose to amplify the stereo signals separately and then combine them at the output instead of first combining and then amplifying a single signal?
I did this because some of the radios I work on actually are stereo, as regards the phono or tape input. In those cases, I actually want the stereo signal going into the radio. Hope this explains it.
Manuel, another educational vid, thank you. Is there a reason you didn't go with a VR rather than fixed for Rf?
Yes, Once I set the desired gain, there’s no reason to adjust again. You then have the volume control on the radio, but also the volume control on the sending device.
Mr. Caldeira, we have a lot of Zenith Transoceanic tube radios in the U.S. and it would be fantastic if you could design a board to be inserted in the Zenith circuitry that would accomplish this same thing. It seems to me that it would be possible if a board was designed to take some D.C. voltage away from somewhere on the B+ line? These are hot chassis radios but would it be safe designing something that only begins to take power at the B+ supply? If you were to design something that would accomplish this I think you would be surprised how many views your video would receive, especially from here in the U.S. These radios do not have FM and the airwaves are full of noise and static so the AM and SW bands are all but unlistenable which is a shame since these radios have excellent sound quality.
Thank you again for your excellent work.
I included a warning that these should not be used on a hot chassis set precisely for the reason you mention: the supply. I will definitely give this some thought as it’s a good idea for a project. We have some hot chassis sets here too, so testing it won’t be a problem for me. Thanks.
for the rf resistor what value do i need ?? please make a parts list thanks
I think this sort of thing is going to become ever more popular as the number of analogue radio stations inevitably shrinks. Some say you shouldn't install Bluetooth and that you should use a pantry transmitter instead but in this day and age that route can be a bit limiting. I see nothing wrong with future-proofing old radios.
My view exactly.
Excellent build, I have around 30 tube radios I’d like to do the same thing to. You’re using the 1N4007 on your board. Couldn’t you technically use the 1N4001? Rated for 50v which would be plenty.
yes, no problem
Thanks for the video. Again one question: If the 6.3 VAC supply of the radio is totally isolated , how does the earth path for the op amp supply work out? Further there might be sets, where the filament string is connected to chassis thru two small resistors (100 ohm from each leg)?
This version only works for cases where one leg of the heater supply is connected to ground (most cases but not all). It needs the common ground at the phono input as a return path for the opamp supply, or it won’t work correctly.
Hi Manuel, great video! Thanks. However I was lost on the ground issue.
The AC supply is from the radio transformer and the chassis (ground). On your board, this ground is going nowhere.
The +- 9 VDC supply is then referenced to the pickup ground, which again is radio chassis.
Would a ground connection on the PCB create a "ground loop"?
Yes, it does. I tried to avoid this and kept getting the buzz noise, so finally experimented with this solution and the noise was no longer an issue.
what kind of caps are those orange squares ??
Hello, another excellent project and video! I see you are using a LM358 chip but do I need to order one that has specific parameters or specs? I visited the "MOUSER" website and they list several different LM358 chips that have different ratings for "output current". Some are rated at 27mA and others are up to 40mA. What would you recommend and are there any other specifications that I need to look at?
Any that have the appropriate pinout will do.
@@electronicsoldandnew for sure I designed A preamp also.
Hello Manuel, I am a follower of your montages, they seem excellent to me, and although I cannot follow the conversation well, I complete it with the translation of the comments. I'm going to set up this experiment, I already ordered the PCBs. I just wanted to ask in the schematic of the video the reference of the integrated circuit does not appear. Can you provide it to me? Very thankful.
I use an LM358, but you can also use just about any dual opamp that has the required pinout. The TL072 is a good example.
The convenience and ease of use of bluetooth are undeniable. Just keep in mind Bluetooth wasn't created for audio but small peripherical communication at low bit rate. Over the years better protocols now exist but most devices are not following. If you can, get cd quality's sources songs or rip them (EAC) and, if the app allows it, choose wisely how to send it over:
SBC - 200 to 328kbps
AAC - 128 to 256kbps
LC3 - 160 to 345kbps
LDAC (Sony) - 300kbps, 660kbps, 990kbps
aptX (Qualcomm)- 352kbps
aptX HD - 576kbps
aptX Adaptive - 279 to 420kbps
aptX "Lossless" - 120kbps to >1Mbps
It should give you the best music rumbling on that old radio speaker :)
There are plenty of others codecs..., every company is throwing "his best attempt at a low cost patent fee"... no standard yet. Thanks for sharing, that look like an easy way to refresh my old radio at home :D
I realise that better options exist, but one must bear in mind that the objective is not to achieve hifi quality sound as these old radios can’t really produce that anyway.
I have found that the BT option, while being an easy solution to implement, makes these radios much more useful.
@@electronicsoldandnew I totally agree with you, sorry if it sounded a bit bad it wasn't my intention, I'm kind of bad with english, i wanted to provide more info for app settings to use for better audio. Thanks for sharing and like I said I will try on my old radio :)
Don’t worry, no negative tone was detected 😊 Hope your radio provides hours of satisfaction.
whats the value of the capacitors 100uf voltage ?? etc etc
Checked out PCBway site - can't find your board or the gerber files you mentioned - great project -can you help? Paul :-)
Try this link:
www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Power_Supply_Board_for_Bluetooth_module_on_tube_radio_2177c68d.html
any one can post a link to the board
Hi Manuel
What was the IC used for OP Amp?
LM358
For the output setting resistors... Might there be such a thing as a tandem trim pot, to make that setting adjustable? Just a thought...
I’d not use that. Better to control the level from the source itself.
@@electronicsoldandnew Thanks for your reply. Just to be clear, I only meant for them to be set one time, at the first calibration. It just means that the resistor selection process is a bit easier. And, I said "trim pot". A better term would be a "trimming variable resistor." Like I said, just a thought. Of course, a variable resistor/bench pot could be used to find the correct audio level and, then, measure the pot to get the discrete resistor value. Or, use a resistor substitution box. Just more thoughts. No reply necessary.
👍
Recom 0505S Input Voltage DC Max: 5.5V
100nf capacitor value ??
I know you put the channels together to make it mono, but is it correct you connected the left and right cables the wrong way round on the board ?
Didn’t realise it was the wrong way around. Shouldn’t make any difference though.
Hi Manuel, I like your Design lately I have been using a program called fusion 360 when I have been doing some of my designing! I think this would be a great circuit to add into my General Electric console which has an aux input
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Hello Manuel,
Another fantastic video, thank you. You've piqued my interest with this new solution. I have been looking for a way to connect my Arylic Up to Stream v3 Pro without the hum/buzz. I would also like to try it in an old tube Radio (Loewe Opta Hellas 552W, not arrived yet). Would this be the solution I've been looking for? Best Regards, John
Probably a good solution. Pay attention to the power capability of the dc-dc converter, so as not to exceed it.
Probably a good solution. Pay attention to the power capability of the dc-dc converter, so as not to exceed it.
Probably a good solution. Pay attention to the power capability of the dc-dc converter, so as not to exceed it.
Thanks Manuel, will do!
How about using trim pots for the rf then you could just adjust the gain.
Not sure what you mean
@@electronicsoldandnew Instead of changing out resistors to adjust the output gain couldnt you use ajustable pots to tune in the correct gain,.
You could use fixed resistors if you don’t want to adjust it at all.
lm 7805 how many amps etc ?
I thought the signal coupling caps you have right after the 1k resistors would prevent the shorting of the op amp and thus making those resistors not needed?
Sort of works, but it’s still an AC short, so I use the resistors. Theoretically, there should be no DC at the opamp outputs anyway, only the signal sitting on zero volts DC. Imagine that you have L going negative and R going positive at any instance, you effectively create a huge differential which will try to balance out across zero resistance. Not good.
Thank you, one more lesson learned :)
How would you tie this into an aa5 radio without a phono input. Only am. It is also a hot chassis radio with no transformer and series string filaments. I read the volume pit is the tie in, but im concerned about safetyvwith the hot chassis on these.
All those conditions would require some very careful thought and care to avoid shock hazards. It’s not something I would advise unless you know exactly what you’re doing.
@@electronicsoldandnew I located an audio transformer I am planning on using for this. This will completely isolate the electrical of the radio from the electrical circuit on this board. What do you think?
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Does/can anyone offering these boards already populated?
My soldering skills are rudimentary at best and Id love to buy a few of these boards already populated. Naturally I realise there will be a premium for populating them.
I don’t do it, but have no problem with someone else out there responding to you.
Hello Manuel,
Would you consider selling pre-assembled modules?
I’m afraid not. I just don’t have the spare time to do that.
Any reason for why not this could be used on a hot chassis radio? I mean, as long as you make sure that all of it is inside the radio and that it's connected on the radio side of the high voltage DC blocking caps that's between the gramophone input and the rest of the radio?
On a hot chassis, your audio ground can suddenly be very hot 😊 that’s the danger.
@@electronicsoldandnew Oh, that I get, I was just wondering if it even matters if it goes hot, as everything is contained inside the nonconductive box around the radio. :)
I agree, you can … just be very careful 😊
@@electronicsoldandnew Good, I had a fear that I'd missed something! 😁
oke i found the pcb ,does it come with a parts list ? could u send me one
All the information on parts is readable from the video.
Donde se compra? Gracias
The boards can be ordered from the sponsor of the video. I don’t sell them myself,
i ask allot of question iam not trying to disrespect you or anything like that :) new sub to your channel
I don’t feel any disrespect, just don’t have much free time.
I hope I didn’t overlook something. I have been looking for the Bluetooth module ID you used Manuel but I didn’t see it.
Would you mind sharing that information with me please, so I can complete my components purchase for my 1st build?
Thank you in advance!
Think I found it now M28 Bluetooth 4.2 Audio Receiver Module.
This is the one. No actual Manual seems to be available:
[US$4.99 50% OFF]M28 bluetooth 4.2 Audio Receiver Module With 3.5mm Audio Interface Lossless Car Speaker Headphone Amplifier Board Wireless Refit Module Board from Electronic Components & Supplies on banggood banggood.onelink.me/zMT7/bxm5je32
@@electronicsoldandnew that’s very helpful!!! Thank you very much Manuel!!! 😁
It looks like I will be ordering from around the globe but that’s nothing new in tech World.
I am going over the PCB today looking at purchasing options for the components. So far pretty good, everything else locally, except I can’t seem to find the integrated circuit. Is it W463693ASP1 please?
Cheers!
😁🙋♂️
I used an LM358.
@@electronicsoldandnew thank you. I am sending some more funds for your help. Have a great weekend!! 😁🙋♂️👍
does the voltage matter of the parts ? cant read it from the video 1N 4007 how many voltage and amps ? i have bought the new board 4.1
100uf voltage ? whats the value of the rf resistor ? iam trying to add a bluetooth module to a grundig rf115a wich is ac from the light source ,does not have a ground to chassis that i can find , that big filter cap 1000 uf how many volts ? RF resistor value ? or do i just order parts and try it if it works iam lucky if not than iam not !
I’m a little concerned. You’re working on a radio that does not have a heater winding at all, so the entire concept of adding BT is different to what I describe. I’m therefore reluctant to pass on advice here as I don’t want to be responsible for any dangerous hacking in the radio. I suggest you ask someone local who can give you a hand with that. While that radio seems to work with low voltages after the transformer, it still has mains going in, so it can still be extremely dangerous. Be careful!
what is the value of 1n4007 ?
That is the value of the diode
Think I may have already informed you that I have successfully used one of your boards in a Bush VHF64. Thank You for this great design. I think I may have seen one of your boards recently in use on a UK based TV program. The program is called Retro Electro se1 ep9 on the channel 'Yesterday'. The tech uses one to add BT to a 1950's Marconi radiogram. If you are able to access via the internet 😉
Ha! Who would have guessed? Thanks for the info. It’s good to know that the idea is really getting around.
Is there a parts list for this.
Afraid not. All components are obtainable from the video.
@@electronicsoldandnew My board is different than the one shown between the b0505 and the diode below it there ore 2 extra components one labeled 220 and the other is labeled 0 what is supposed to go there.
The video of the latest board describes this. The idea is to use a diode to drop to 4.3V, or direct to the 5V supply pin on the BT module.
@@electronicsoldandnew I cant seem to find a video on the board that is newer than this one. What is the name of it. Thanks.
I think you got these boards: Power supply board for adding bluetooth module to a tube radio, with signal booster. #PCBWay#
ruclips.net/video/8FYKT6aLJuE/видео.html
So that board's design isn't right. Needs another type of recom module (one that can have up to 12V input). In terms of caps, everything can be 16V, that's fine for this
That opamp at the output is also flexible choice, you can go something like a NE5532, or a TL072 / TL082
Is it possible to power the opamp with the isolated 5V like the bluetooth module and only 2 or 3 times gain? This should also solve the ground problem?
The problem with a single 5V supply is that there is not enough headroom for the proper gain to be achieved. If you created a dual supply, with 5V and -5V, then I believe that would be enough.
Remember, the volume on your iPad controls its output gain…
True, but without the booster it is too low even at max volume on the ipad.
Electronics old and new your power supply board for adding Bluetooth module to a tube radio Receiver with signal bass is cool on utube videos on Mister Radio he put in Bluetooth in tube radio Receiver I watch Mister Radio you should watch Mister Radio on utube and watch. Mister Radio on utube his videos
i asked a friend of mine . Take a look, that design is not good at all, with the Recom 0505S as input DC DC converter. It claims 6.3V AC input, which makes about 8V DC on the 1000uF cap, and the recom 0505S-1W can have MAXIMUM 5V on its input, otherwise it's BOOM
My friend, ask your engineer to look at the circuit again. He’s wrong.
@@electronicsoldandnew can u please provide a parts list so we dont make a mistake ! or upload it to pcbway thanks
@@electronicsoldandnew what voltage do we need to use for those orange brown looking capicitors ??
Es geht auch anders...
ruclips.net/video/2Nxq-kNDPVA/видео.html
I really like your solution, especially the activation via the magic eye. Great solution.
Check out "Mister Radio" on YT to see how he does it... FWIW, Stay healthy
Many ways to do it. I’ve seen a few 😊