When looking for newbie tutorials, it can be a pain to get just what you need. For this is now my goto tutorial. Clean, clear and precise (without blather). As smooth as the removing of the mold, Thankyou
Thanks for the chocolate mold idea, I'm making some of these for potentiometer knobs for my cigar box guitars and amps, drill and tap for a set screw - done.
This is a nice process, and I love the smooth finish on the knobs from the mold. If you wanted to create them without the bolt head showing through, you could create a jig that sits above the mold that you thread the bolts into. That way they would be suspended high enough that it doesn't touch the bottom of the mold, but still down far enough to embed them in the resin. Put the resin in the mood first and then place the jig with the bolts already in place over it. Lower it slowly to avoid any air bubbles.
Actually the bolt head going through is handily in this instance. Having access to the hex hole allows me to apply more torque. I did make some suspended so the head didn’t touch the bottom, purely for aesthetic reasons.
Brilliant and faster than going to the big box store (assuming that they even have the right knobs). It would be helpful if you added links to the mold and all your materials in the video description (and you might even get something for your tip jar).
biondatiziana thanks! I have added links in other comments below. Not quite as helpful, but the sellers don’t remain consistent in holding the product so I do a search when someone asks and post a link for them. Here is a link for you, the good thing about this link is they have them in different sizes which could be useful for larger knobs. www.amazon.com/Webake-2-pack-Silicone-Chocolate-Peanut/dp/B01N4M6MGG Regards, Geoff
Great idea! I know the cups are cheap but just use two next time by adding pigment to A or B then pour A into B. We use lots of polyurethane that way and it saves cups.
Great idea. I use West Epoxy a lot in boats and it is a lot thicker than the resin you used so that will explain the lack of bubbles. With West you can use a hair dryer on the curing resin to get the bubbles to come to the surface. Off to get mould now as these are great. Andy
This is freaking awesome!!! Simple stupid, so simple I wonder how I did not thought about that!!! Also, using socket head cap screw enables you to use a Allen key if extra force is required!
As far as pouring the without making a mess, if you would use a paper cup for your "mix" cup you would be able to pinch the end of it and make a little spout to make it easier to pour without getting resin on your screws. Also since fastcast dries so quickly you could pour just a small bit (just enough to cover the bottom of the mold) let it set until hardened, then put your screw in and pour more epoxy. That way the screw would not be showing on the end of the knob.
This is really cool. I'm excited that I found your channel. I've been trying to come up with a solution for my drill storage and came across your drill cabinet. now I know just what to do. Thanks again.
A good tip: When you are pouring the resin from the bottle into the cup, turn the bottle so that the spout is on top rather than the bottom. It wont run down the side of the bottle and you will have more control over it . :)
Coisa boa é a america. Provavelmente esta resina lá não seja tão cara. Aqui no brasil, quando se consegue encontrar, custa uma fortuna... um rim..quem sabe. Q inveja. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hi Geoff, interesting and informative video. Gave me some ideas for making knobs to suit my arthritic hands. Can i make a suggestion? Try turning the bottle on its side to pour, the idea is to keep the spout uppermost. Keep up the good work.
Drop in a brass/nickel/stainless disc slightly smaller than the bottom of the cup. This adds a decorative center face and hides the bolt. That can even be given a convex face with sandpaper. For old switch or potentiometer shafts, instead of that bolt, use a section of brass pipe with the desired outside diameter. Smear it with Vaseline. Just pull the pipe out of the cured knob, drill and tap for a set screw.
hackaday.com/2017/08/16/a-great-way-to-make-quick-and-easy-knobs/ brilliant website about all things maker, from physical builds like this to electronics and software etc
Nick's Stuff no purely because the benefit of exposing the hex part of the bolt allows me to apply torque. The resin bonds so firmly to the bolt that the grip isn’t an issue. From an aesthetic perspective what you are suggesting does have merit and would absolutely work. I just haven’t done it. Like your thinking though!
Geoff First off, your videos are awesome, I like the way you pay so much attention to detail. Now can you please tell me where you got your molds from. Thanks DT
Neat. From showing the components, I found the suppliers. Very useful. Just where'd ja get the choclatiers mould from... Glad for the info so for the vid. Many thanks for the initiative
QaaUz I don't recall where I got them from but I found this link, they do the exact same moulds and also a star mould which looks good! www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018SB0B7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mGMAzb2Q1H00M
Stuff I Made Well I do appreciate that. The link leads to a feasable solution - 99p and 2,99 post uk... and ' you save 4 pounds!' hahaha. But whatever, the quartermaster in me is chuffed and your relevant response, a huge asset surely appreciated by all. Thankyou
With the round head of the allen bolt, what sort of torque can you put through it before the resin knob starts slipping over it? A standard hexagon headed bolt would give more grip but you wouldn't have the end adjustment.
Evil from evilution I have tried to make the bolt slip using mole grips on the epoxy and a pair on the bolt and trying to twist it, with all my strength I can't budge it. I have also smashed the epoxy with a 4lb lump hammer, result was the epoxy broke but large parts still connected to the bolt, not budging. Hope that helps.
Any two part resin or two part epoxy will do. The mould is a chocolatier mould. The black pigment, you could use acrylic paint. Cualquier resina de dos partes o epoxi de dos partes servirá. El molde es un molde chocolatero. Para el pigmento negro, puedes usar pintura acrílica.
Definitely awesome idea! But how can I make knobs for pots(potentiometer)? Basically it needs to have a hole instead of the bolt you have in here. I'd really appreciate if you could take some time to try that in a video. That would be another challenge for you ;) Cheers!!
Numan Syed I have done this with threaded inserts. You can see it in this video at 1:50 seconds in - ruclips.net/video/ot-x3bIGDGE/видео.html Alternatively you could make the knob without a bolt or insert then drill the hole you want for the potentiometer and then glue or friction fit it to the potentiometer. Does that solve your requirement? Ta geoff
Neat~!! How do they hold up to strenuous torquing over time? I really like your organization of tools. Just an FIY here: Dust Collection. Check out your insurance company's policy. Most of them have a stone cold policy that if they can trace ( and they will try) a fire to a non metallic DC ducting system then they just won't pay a fire damage claim - period.
Raul McCai they hold up very well to torque. No slipping of the resin. Also have exposed the hex hole for the hex key. Ta for the heads up about the insurance!! I am hoping to do a shop tour video next on shop organisation so watch out for that one ;)
Like the video, very well explained. Just need to know where you bought the mold and other molds. Searched everywhere and can't seem to find them. Also, who do you purchase the resin from? Keep making informative videos. Max
Max McLendon hi 👋. The resin was from Easy Composites (www.easycomposites.co.uk) and the mould can be found here - Silikomart Silicone Chocolate Mould Praline, Brown www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001NNMI12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i.SVAbATM2ZF8 If you are not in the uk, use the title / phrase to search for it. Good luck!
Long ago I made larger knobs for table saw accessories. About 5 cm diameter. My mould was found by wandering the auto parts store and seeing plastic caps for chrome ball hitches. The large smooth scallops, maybe 8 around the circumference, provided a comfortable grip for tightening down as much as I wanted. I made them one at a time, placing the mold on the plate of a drill press and securing the threaded bolt in the chuck so it was true and steady. Perfectly plumb and you can set the depth into the resin precisely if it matters, e.g. for suspending a female thread coupling nut instead of a bolt.
very nice! they look as if they came out of a factory, well done. could I please check with you whether this was polyurethane fast casting resin and not polyester? the last easy composites polyester one that I ordered did not have a and b equal parts, but just the resin and a catalyst. I would be very interested in knowing exactly which product this is, because polyester is much cheaper! thank you, Evangelos
Liem Duong I got mine from a timber yard who happen to stock epoxy resins and supporting accessories. However since getting mine I have learnt that you can use the thick painters acyrillic, also the cartridges from large office colour printers, the ones that contain the cmyk (cyan, magenta, yellow, black) powder (not the liquid ink) are also great as you can mix the powders to make almost any colour, and generally when they are thrown out they still have some powder left over. Just a little messy that is all.
Does the knob contain the screw? Or a threaded hole? What size thread ie. M6? How far does the thread protrude in mm? Are you looking for a round knob with angled sides? Straight sides? Or a knob like in my video? How many do you need? By when? What’s your budget?
The reason those resin containers are shaped that way is so you can turn them on their side to dump them out and the bulk of the fluid doesn't get to the opening so quickly and you can pour more slowly and controlled. Tipping it the way you did is the absolute worst possible way.
GuysWoodshop nope it won't budge, I did worry about that, but not a problem. I was going to suspend the bolt so the epoxy filled the hex hole for more grip but it's not needed.
You could use hex head bolts, or hack saw/file slits in the side of the round heads along the length for something for the epoxy to grip. These do look great!!
There is no need to use 3 cups. Pour 1 part in 1 cup, mark the level on the side which will be double that (exact 1:1 ratio isn't all that important, "close enough" will work fine), mix the pigment into that one part, then pour the other part in slowly. Personally, I'd find it easier to find knobs for sale than that silicone mold.
genius is the simplicity of making something so simple.
All of a sudden I have an incredible craving for a Reese Peanut butter cup! Great video and idea.
The choc mould, just brilliant! TY.
When looking for newbie tutorials, it can be a pain to get just what you need. For this is now my goto tutorial. Clean, clear and precise (without blather). As smooth as the removing of the mold, Thankyou
Thanks for the chocolate mold idea, I'm making some of these for potentiometer knobs for my cigar box guitars and amps, drill and tap for a set screw - done.
This is a nice process, and I love the smooth finish on the knobs from the mold.
If you wanted to create them without the bolt head showing through, you could create a jig that sits above the mold that you thread the bolts into. That way they would be suspended high enough that it doesn't touch the bottom of the mold, but still down far enough to embed them in the resin. Put the resin in the mood first and then place the jig with the bolts already in place over it. Lower it slowly to avoid any air bubbles.
Actually the bolt head going through is handily in this instance. Having access to the hex hole allows me to apply more torque. I did make some suspended so the head didn’t touch the bottom, purely for aesthetic reasons.
Thank you for passing this on. I'm not sure why I never thought of this before but I will be trying this this weekend.
Brilliant and faster than going to the big box store (assuming that they even have the right knobs). It would be helpful if you added links to the mold and all your materials in the video description (and you might even get something for your tip jar).
biondatiziana thanks!
I have added links in other comments below. Not quite as helpful, but the sellers don’t remain consistent in holding the product so I do a search when someone asks and post a link for them. Here is a link for you, the good thing about this link is they have them in different sizes which could be useful for larger knobs.
www.amazon.com/Webake-2-pack-Silicone-Chocolate-Peanut/dp/B01N4M6MGG
Regards, Geoff
Great idea! I know the cups are cheap but just use two next time by adding pigment to A or B then pour A into B. We use lots of polyurethane that way and it saves cups.
Great idea. I use West Epoxy a lot in boats and it is a lot thicker than the resin you used so that will explain the lack of bubbles. With West you can use a hair dryer on the curing resin to get the bubbles to come to the surface. Off to get mould now as these are great. Andy
FrenchAM100 I have used this mould so many times now! You can see in my latest video the knobs in use.
A good dollop, that's a PROPER measure. 😂👍
It's Britain. We have a "that will do it" culture. Love it : )
I had no idea. Such a great use of epoxy
Great video, Sir. Those knobs looks awesome. 👍🏻
This is freaking awesome!!!
Simple stupid, so simple I wonder how I did not thought about that!!!
Also, using socket head cap screw enables you to use a Allen key if extra force is required!
Also great with threaded inserts too !
You could try to do the same with long nuts, filling them with wax to save the threads.
creative solution i also like that if needed you can use a Allen key to torque it more.
thanks for the video
WoW!!! Fantastic! BTW, the beard suits you!
Garviel Loken I wish my wife thought so 😂
As far as pouring the without making a mess, if you would use a paper cup for your "mix" cup you would be able to pinch the end of it and make a little spout to make it easier to pour without getting resin on your screws. Also since fastcast dries so quickly you could pour just a small bit (just enough to cover the bottom of the mold) let it set until hardened, then put your screw in and pour more epoxy. That way the screw would not be showing on the end of the knob.
Andy M good tip on the paper cup!
I like the hex head of the bolt being accessible through the resin. But still a great tip!!!!
@@StuffIMade I thought the exposed end was handy so you could finish off torquing it with an Allen key if desired.
Awesome Job... Something new to add to my Arsenal...
Far cheaper than buying and quick and easy to make. I use easy composites epoxy and find far superior to any others i tried
This is really cool. I'm excited that I found your channel. I've been trying to come up with a solution for my drill storage
and came across your drill cabinet. now I know just what to do. Thanks again.
Daniel Miller cool 😎
been looking for a way to make knobs other than wood, this is it. informative. thank you.
paul kavanagh thanks!
Great idea
That's one knob I'd like to get my hands on.
Fantastic work i already got the mould!!!! thanks so much
Fernando Ariel cool post some pics to my Facebook group - 'stuff I made - group'
thanks ,, Professer
am from india❤️
A good tip: When you are pouring the resin from the bottle into the cup, turn the bottle so that the spout is on top rather than the bottom. It wont run down the side of the bottle and you will have more control over it
. :)
nice tip! i will give that a try for sure! thanks
Nice work. They look so much more professional than plywood knobs.
Coisa boa é a america.
Provavelmente esta resina lá não seja tão cara.
Aqui no brasil, quando se consegue encontrar, custa uma fortuna... um rim..quem sabe.
Q inveja. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hi Geoff, interesting and informative video. Gave me some ideas for making knobs to suit my arthritic hands. Can i make a suggestion? Try turning the bottle on its side to pour, the idea is to keep the spout uppermost. Keep up the good work.
I love it...I have been trying to branch out into using epoxy...thanks for another great idea!
I googled "brit making hard black knob" this is what came up
David Schne I knew someone would find me ;)
Beautiful, thank you for sharing.
I might have put a large washer on and then a nut. That way you could control the depth. I'll see this every time I look at the candy now.
Thanks for the tip mate.
Nice one man, good tip.
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice tip/project :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
The Most delicious knobs ever made :)
Mix some chocolate brown resin, and you'd have Reese's peanut butter cup knobs.
Sherif4 Taha 1
Wow. Clever project and great video. I'm going to find that epoxy and a chocolate mold.
Mark Moran thanks! Good luck. Any casting resin should do, and if you don't have pigment you can use acrylic paints to colour the resin
Drop in a brass/nickel/stainless disc slightly smaller than the bottom of the cup. This adds a decorative center face and hides the bolt. That can even be given a convex face with sandpaper. For old switch or potentiometer shafts, instead of that bolt, use a section of brass pipe with the desired outside diameter. Smear it with Vaseline. Just pull the pipe out of the cured knob, drill and tap for a set screw.
Looks excelent congrats.!
Exelent idea ... 👍🏽
Joe Kerr thanks !
Very cool.
this is amazing. good job getting featured on hackaday, not sure I'd have ever come across your brilliant channel otherwise!
Chris Watts brilliant ! What's hackaday? RUclips channel or website? Didn't know I was featured!
Chris Watts do you have a link to where I am featured please???
hackaday.com/2017/08/16/a-great-way-to-make-quick-and-easy-knobs/ brilliant website about all things maker, from physical builds like this to electronics and software etc
Chris Watts thanks a lot!!!
Awesome and quick!
Brilliant
Have you tried pouring in two steps to embed the screw head inside the knob?
Nick's Stuff no purely because the benefit of exposing the hex part of the bolt allows me to apply torque. The resin bonds so firmly to the bolt that the grip isn’t an issue.
From an aesthetic perspective what you are suggesting does have merit and would absolutely work. I just haven’t done it.
Like your thinking though!
Good tutorial though Geoff :)
Awesome!
Brilliant, definitely subscribing now.
John Klatt thank you 😊
Brilliant!
really awesome!
Cool idea. USA
Wow, man... That's an awesome idea!
Looks pro
Geoff
First off, your videos are awesome, I like the way you pay so much attention to detail.
Now can you please tell me where you got your molds from.
Thanks
DT
Thanks! You can get them here Silikomart Silicone Chocolate Mould Praline, Brown www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001NNMI12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jGk5Ab1H0FXXB
That's pretty cool.
Neat.
From showing the components, I found the suppliers. Very useful. Just where'd ja get the choclatiers mould from...
Glad for the info so for the vid. Many thanks for the initiative
QaaUz I don't recall where I got them from but I found this link, they do the exact same moulds and also a star mould which looks good!
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018SB0B7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mGMAzb2Q1H00M
Stuff I Made Well I do appreciate that. The link leads to a feasable solution - 99p and 2,99 post uk... and ' you save 4 pounds!' hahaha. But whatever, the quartermaster in me is chuffed and your relevant response, a huge asset surely appreciated by all. Thankyou
Nice work...how do you find the middle of the knob?
By eye, you would be amazed how accurate you can be be sighting around the bolt.
With the round head of the allen bolt, what sort of torque can you put through it before the resin knob starts slipping over it?
A standard hexagon headed bolt would give more grip but you wouldn't have the end adjustment.
Evil from evilution I have tried to make the bolt slip using mole grips on the epoxy and a pair on the bolt and trying to twist it, with all my strength I can't budge it. I have also smashed the epoxy with a 4lb lump hammer, result was the epoxy broke but large parts still connected to the bolt, not budging. Hope that helps.
Excellent, better than expected.
Evil from evilution yes better than I expected also!
Could you use JB weld for the epoxy?
There's nothing you can't use JB Weld for.
great idea how can i gate the material ???
4kilotube ET easy composites website
Super
POR FAVOR ALGUIEN ME PUEDE DECIR QUE PRODUCTOS USARON EN EL VIDEO_ GRACIAS
Any two part resin or two part epoxy will do. The mould is a chocolatier mould.
The black pigment, you could use acrylic paint.
Cualquier resina de dos partes o epoxi de dos partes servirá. El molde es un molde chocolatero.
Para el pigmento negro, puedes usar pintura acrílica.
Definitely awesome idea! But how can I make knobs for pots(potentiometer)?
Basically it needs to have a hole instead of the bolt you have in here.
I'd really appreciate if you could take some time to try that in a video. That would be another challenge for you ;)
Cheers!!
Numan Syed I have done this with threaded inserts. You can see it in this video at 1:50 seconds in - ruclips.net/video/ot-x3bIGDGE/видео.html
Alternatively you could make the knob without a bolt or insert then drill the hole you want for the potentiometer and then glue or friction fit it to the potentiometer.
Does that solve your requirement?
Ta geoff
That's right, Geof! That sorts it out :) I think I was too excited to realise that easy bit in there...loll
Kool !! ;)
What are the screws specifically called? Please. I’ve searched all over and can’t find what I needed and come across your video which is perfect
Pan head
Love your knobs, where did you get that mold from I have tried all over without any success.
here you go amzn.to/2jFNn0p
Neat~!! How do they hold up to strenuous torquing over time? I really like your organization of tools. Just an FIY here: Dust Collection. Check out your insurance company's policy. Most of them have a stone cold policy that if they can trace ( and they will try) a fire to a non metallic DC ducting system then they just won't pay a fire damage claim - period.
Raul McCai they hold up very well to torque. No slipping of the resin. Also have exposed the hex hole for the hex key.
Ta for the heads up about the insurance!!
I am hoping to do a shop tour video next on shop organisation so watch out for that one ;)
Like the video, very well explained. Just need to know where you bought the mold and other molds. Searched everywhere and can't seem to find them. Also, who do you purchase the resin from?
Keep making informative videos.
Max
Max McLendon hi 👋. The resin was from Easy Composites (www.easycomposites.co.uk) and the mould can be found here - Silikomart Silicone Chocolate Mould Praline, Brown www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001NNMI12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i.SVAbATM2ZF8
If you are not in the uk, use the title / phrase to search for it. Good luck!
Long ago I made larger knobs for table saw accessories. About 5 cm diameter. My mould was found by wandering the auto parts store and seeing plastic caps for chrome ball hitches. The large smooth scallops, maybe 8 around the circumference, provided a comfortable grip for tightening down as much as I wanted. I made them one at a time, placing the mold on the plate of a drill press and securing the threaded bolt in the chuck so it was true and steady. Perfectly plumb and you can set the depth into the resin precisely if it matters, e.g. for suspending a female thread coupling nut instead of a bolt.
very nice! they look as if they came out of a factory, well done. could I please check with you whether this was polyurethane fast casting resin and not polyester? the last easy composites polyester one that I ordered did not have a and b equal parts, but just the resin and a catalyst. I would be very interested in knowing exactly which product this is, because polyester is much cheaper! thank you, Evangelos
Xylon Guitars thanks! It's Fast Cast polyurethane casting resin part A and part B with a 1 to 1 ratio.
This is the updated packaging www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/resin-gel-silicone-adhesive/casting-resin/fast-cast-polyurethane-casting-resin.html
perfect! thank you... very happy that the cheap p4 does the job! this is valuable info. best, Evangelos
two part and polyurethane - pretty sure it's identical
Rust removal from lawnmord
Where Can I get the black pigment? Can I get it from a paint shop?
Liem Duong I got mine from a timber yard who happen to stock epoxy resins and supporting accessories. However since getting mine I have learnt that you can use the thick painters acyrillic, also the cartridges from large office colour printers, the ones that contain the cmyk (cyan, magenta, yellow, black) powder (not the liquid ink) are also great as you can mix the powders to make almost any colour, and generally when they are thrown out they still have some powder left over. Just a little messy that is all.
nice one but when you use the knobs do you thimk of chocolate
Chris Logan haha not great for the diet!
Hi this video is the best of this , i have a question , where did you find the chocolate mold? thanks.
Fernando Ariel eBay but I don't recall the exact link
Hay great thanks i can´t find it if you remember that bplease let me know congrats for your video.
Fernando Ariel found it Silikomart Silicone Chocolate Mould Praline, Brown www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001NNMI12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IftXzbZQVVH19
You´re the best!!!! with this name i found on ebay too. Thanks so much.
Fernando Ariel no worries 😉
Traduire en Francais.Mercie
Je ne parle pas Français, désolé. Je ne puex donc pas traduire.
Brilliant, Thnaks⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👍☠️⚙️🛠
Hello, would you do a custom order of making simple 1959 Martin D18e knobs? Please let me know
Would they have to look identical with the text and black inlayed diamond, black base with numbers… or more like the knobs I made?
Just the white knobs with screws and preferable with the black diamond cursor. But I’m looking for an exact replica indeed.
Does the knob contain the screw? Or a threaded hole?
What size thread ie. M6?
How far does the thread protrude in mm?
Are you looking for a round knob with angled sides? Straight sides?
Or a knob like in my video?
How many do you need?
By when?
What’s your budget?
"Today im making knobs"😂😂😂😂
pretty smart actually, but plywood scraps are way cheaper than epoxy plus no dry time :-)
HODYO Design all very true! Guess it's just another option. ;)
Stuff I Made where do you get a mould like that?
nifty....
Can this be used as a wheel?
smtel potentially with a different mold. Maybe better with a more rubber like casting resin. Depends on the torque and weight also.
cool
The reason those resin containers are shaped that way is so you can turn them on their side to dump them out and the bulk of the fluid doesn't get to the opening so quickly and you can pour more slowly and controlled. Tipping it the way you did is the absolute worst possible way.
Where did you get the mould from?
I put a link somewhere in the replies to the comments, have a scan through and you will find it ;)
Where did you buy the resin from?
THE BETTABOX "easy composites"
Ta geoff
What are these used for?
Jigs and making stuff. Check out my hot wire foam cutter videos you can see them in use there.
If you could estimate cost of that one knob what would it be? Cheaper than store-bought?
krzysiej -- yes for sure
Pretty cool Geoff. How tight is the screw in the resin? I mean, have you ever had and issue with the screw coming loose from inside the casting?
GuysWoodshop nope it won't budge, I did worry about that, but not a problem. I was going to suspend the bolt so the epoxy filled the hex hole for more grip but it's not needed.
GuysWoodshop ถ
suspending it would cover the head and make it look more finished though
It may be nice to use a hex key to turn the knobs sometimes though. I could see both ways being preferable in certain usages.
You could use hex head bolts, or hack saw/file slits in the side of the round heads along the length for something for the epoxy to grip. These do look great!!
Why oh why do they make those containers in such a way that when you pour it drips down the side!!!!
Cheesegrater I guess that way you use more resin ;)
You are actually supposed to pour with the spelled up top, rather than on the bottom, to get a more accurate pour with less spillage
There is no need to use 3 cups. Pour 1 part in 1 cup, mark the level on the side which will be double that (exact 1:1 ratio isn't all that important, "close enough" will work fine), mix the pigment into that one part, then pour the other part in slowly.
Personally, I'd find it easier to find knobs for sale than that silicone mold.
Stinky Cheese except with three cups if you over pour then you can pour some back. The cups are so cheap.
brilliant
Who put a bolt through my Reese's peanut butter cup?
fib notnow that was me! Sorry about that ;)
Awesome !