Glad you learned that the chossy traverse was not a great aid route, I think the p2 alternate is one of my favorite pitches on the route. Did you go all the way to the p2 alternate anchors and gain the open book corner before working back left to the crack you took the fall from? It looks like you can reach the alternate crack from about 5/6 away across the alternate traverse and head straight up from there. I was thinking about trying this next weekend, but wasn't sure how secure the gear would be without the p2 alt anchor bolts in the system at the hard 90 degree turn up the wall.
Hey, not a 100% sure where you are describing, but I never went all the way to the right into the open book corner (original variation Pitch 3). I also never went to the anchors at the end of the rotten traverse. I went straight from pitch 1 up into the first roof, then there is a bolt that takes you across the blank blank face (very reachy) and then you gain the crack system I was on when I took the fall. The open book is off to the right and I never used it. Just after the cam hook move, you toe step up to a bomber nut placement, I should put the rest of this up as well, i had it recorded. This bomber nut placement is the first time you regain the original p3 variation and is part way through the 90 degree dog leg at the top. The gear is secure (apart from the section where I fell!!! Need a couple smaller cams for the start. I was doing it rope solo so rope drag on the 90degree turn wasn't an issue.
Well done! I have a Wren Silent Partner too. You mind sharing your experience with it during the climb and after the fall? Rope management difficult? Did you let the rope hang below, or keep it attached in a stuff sack? Was it difficult to loosen up after the fall? Much slippage with the rope before catching? Did you have it backed up (knot, hitch, another device, etc.?) Keep up the strong work. Thanks!
Hey Jeff, I've used the silent partner for quite a while now, mainly free climbing but just started using it for aid and for short fixing whilst free climbing. During the fall I heard it run for the slightest bit, but not much, great soft catch. My bottom anchor was bunny ears on lockers on two rings. I was trying to link four pitches, so I had the rope fixed at the bottom of p1, then again at the bottom of p2. I let the rope hang below, with a single overhand backup knot loosely tied and connected to a quickdraw off the waist belt of my harness. I do this to keep it out of the way of my belay loop. I've thought about having a nylon sling girth hitched to my waiste and leg loops (where the belay loop goes) and then held to the side of my harness with climbers tape as a safer option. Might try that later. The knot is easy to get undone, best to practice this on top rope, lock it under your legs in a breaking position then bounce a bit (like you are going to tighten it more!!) and it will come straight undone if you are breaking hard enough, counter intuitive I know but it works!!!.
Rope management is easy on aid, a little tricky free climbing. Loose overhand knots, and as long a loop as you can safely tolerate helps. Also, the backup knots are essential to minimise rope drag, not just for safety.
Jakob Kapelj Hey mate, thanks for sharing. I am getting acquainted with the SP both for free and aid. I personally found it easier to manage on free climbing, so I am probably doing something wrong when I aid. I always get everything tangled (in such a way that I am afraid the SP won't catch enough speed to lock, in case of a fall). Do you have an harness with one or two belay loops? I'd love to watch an instructional video of your setup. Yes this is a kind video request :) Thanks and congrats for your climbs
I believe your clove hitch is tied upside down on the SP. The tails should exit either side of the drum closest to your body. It looks to me that they are exiting the device between the drum and thoes two pins that line up when you close the cheek plates.
It's all A1 until you fall
Glad you learned that the chossy traverse was not a great aid route, I think the p2 alternate is one of my favorite pitches on the route. Did you go all the way to the p2 alternate anchors and gain the open book corner before working back left to the crack you took the fall from? It looks like you can reach the alternate crack from about 5/6 away across the alternate traverse and head straight up from there. I was thinking about trying this next weekend, but wasn't sure how secure the gear would be without the p2 alt anchor bolts in the system at the hard 90 degree turn up the wall.
Hey, not a 100% sure where you are describing, but I never went all the way to the right into the open book corner (original variation Pitch 3). I also never went to the anchors at the end of the rotten traverse. I went straight from pitch 1 up into the first roof, then there is a bolt that takes you across the blank blank face (very reachy) and then you gain the crack system I was on when I took the fall. The open book is off to the right and I never used it. Just after the cam hook move, you toe step up to a bomber nut placement, I should put the rest of this up as well, i had it recorded. This bomber nut placement is the first time you regain the original p3 variation and is part way through the 90 degree dog leg at the top. The gear is secure (apart from the section where I fell!!! Need a couple smaller cams for the start. I was doing it rope solo so rope drag on the 90degree turn wasn't an issue.
Well done! I have a Wren Silent Partner too. You mind sharing your experience with it during the climb and after the fall? Rope management difficult? Did you let the rope hang below, or keep it attached in a stuff sack? Was it difficult to loosen up after the fall? Much slippage with the rope before catching? Did you have it backed up (knot, hitch, another device, etc.?) Keep up the strong work. Thanks!
Hey Jeff, I've used the silent partner for quite a while now, mainly free climbing but just started using it for aid and for short fixing whilst free climbing. During the fall I heard it run for the slightest bit, but not much, great soft catch. My bottom anchor was bunny ears on lockers on two rings. I was trying to link four pitches, so I had the rope fixed at the bottom of p1, then again at the bottom of p2. I let the rope hang below, with a single overhand backup knot loosely tied and connected to a quickdraw off the waist belt of my harness. I do this to keep it out of the way of my belay loop. I've thought about having a nylon sling girth hitched to my waiste and leg loops (where the belay loop goes) and then held to the side of my harness with climbers tape as a safer option. Might try that later.
The knot is easy to get undone, best to practice this on top rope, lock it under your legs in a breaking position then bounce a bit (like you are going to tighten it more!!) and it will come straight undone if you are breaking hard enough, counter intuitive I know but it works!!!.
Rope management is easy on aid, a little tricky free climbing. Loose overhand knots, and as long a loop as you can safely tolerate helps. Also, the backup knots are essential to minimise rope drag, not just for safety.
Jakob Kapelj Hey mate, thanks for sharing. I am getting acquainted with the SP both for free and aid. I personally found it easier to manage on free climbing, so I am probably doing something wrong when I aid. I always get everything tangled (in such a way that I am afraid the SP won't catch enough speed to lock, in case of a fall). Do you have an harness with one or two belay loops? I'd love to watch an instructional video of your setup. Yes this is a kind video request :) Thanks and congrats for your climbs
I believe your clove hitch is tied upside down on the SP. The tails should exit either side of the drum closest to your body. It looks to me that they are exiting the device between the drum and thoes two pins that line up when you close the cheek plates.
Ugh!