For those commenting on how bad it is to trust fixed gear. I suspect you've never done a wall. Leaning Tower, and more specifically the West Face is littered with fixed gear that requires you to trust or you substantially increase the aid rating. Get out of the gym kids.
+Dan Innamorati Where did you get anything about what is/isn't artificial? Big wall =/= aid climbing. Doesn't matter where it is, or what it's on, there's a big difference between climbing and rigging your way up something. If your passion and joy comes from simply going up something, that's fine, no judgement, but if someone is going to be an elitist twat about what others do, they're opening themselves up for the same hate.
You were saying that aiding is less of climbing than gym climbing. By saying that, you are saying its a more valid way to climb. Theres obviously a very large cojones requirement for the hard aid climbing and it is the only way the other 99% of climbers can get up hard big wall routes! Maybe I didnt read everything before this but its annoying to see people hating on aid climbing.
Free climbers be hatin.. This pitch if linked goes at 512 R so if you wanna try go for it, then link video. Again this was my first wall so I was scared at 700+ feet exposed and climbing hard 5.11 with an Iron Cross start and a 5.12 R section higher up was out of the question. Also what is the point of free climbing this pitch? You have to do mandatory aid to get to it. Just watch the video with Lynn Hill and you can get an idea of what its like to free this pitch.
Don't know too many free climbers who can lead 5.12r who have enough of a bad attitude to talk trash on youtube, so fuck the comments. Nice climbing dude!
The "free climbers" talking shit are the guys who climbed a 5.12 at the gym or at Joshua Tree and now think they can do the same on big walls. Funny thing is the internet has millions of climbing experts who can lead free climbs of 5.12 on big walls YET the big walls in real life are pretty empty.....like this video shows.
@@megamilyon6111 climbed a top rope 5.12 once at the gym....now an internet expert talking shit about aid climbing. Not realizing some of the biggest baddest routes in the world rely on aid climbing to do get through.
Oh come on. So what if he used a piece he didn't place -- he just placed a bazillion pieces to get there. Even if a few of his own pieces popped he would have been fine.
Honest question here, and not trying to blast aid climbing. Is the camera making that look easy to free climb? It seems like placing your gear and free climbing is _the way_ to clear this section, but maybe thats my inexperience talking. comparing the exposure to the one trad climb I've done (Tuolumne, same rock!), you are not all that high up, so I'm thinking exhaustion isn't the reason of using aid, so it must be the difficulty. Was any free climbing done on this climb? EDIT I looked up Leaning Tower and now I understand.
This is more scary to watch than free climbing falls where a lot of the time you know dude is gonna fall soon instead of the ticking bombs here. Vicarious thrill seekers will subscribe to the "Aid Fall" channel.
I don't know basicaly anything about aid climbing. Is the clip at 1:20 really correct? Just seems a bit weird not use the sling on the cam and make that metal on metal clip with two biners. But then again, I don't really know aid.
The guy went for a sweet ride and got a free nut! That fall is safe and trusting fixed gear on the west face of leaning tower is inevitable. A bounce test would have a been good idea if the fall consequences were higher, as others mentioned.
If you don't understand big wall climbing why are you posting dumbass comments?? This dude probably aided 99% of the route like most people do. Sure he might have been able to switch back and forth from free to aid and just pulled past this section but it's his first big wall. This was probably a lower out fixed piece that popped because it was placed poorly. There's so much fixed gear in the valley that its just faster to clip them and move on rather than trying to take them out and put your own in. You can only place gear where it can fit in arms reach so if he couldn't place anything else it would seem logical to clip the gear(and test it). If this was your first big wall and hadn't aided much you'd probably climb just as slow. Leaning tower is one of the steepest continuous walls in N. America if I'm not mistaken.
Good memories. In '76 there were no cams and aid climbing was not yet frowned upon. We spent a great night on (what's the name again, Sandy Ledges?) and watched headlights first light up the edge of Wawona Tunnel and a few seconds emerge in full brightness. At times the wind was strong enough to blow the end of the rope up in wild coils, as if suspended by some genie. Is that dead we had to climb to start the route still there? Just curious.
@@ksb2112 Possibly. I forget. But at one point above that, while trying to place pro, something swooshed up from behind, seemingly crawled over my head and disappeared in the crack I tried to place the pro in. It turned out to be a swallow, afraid I was threatening its nest. Remember Mike Hudon (Hoodon?). I did a few climbs with him in his early Yosemite days. At a later point he (and Max Jones?) tried to free the Salathė. Way up he reached into a crack and felt something soft, so he withdrew. It turned out to be a small frog. Both, he and the frog were puzzled. Mark needed the rack to move on, the frog stalled for a moment and then leaped into space. Mark felt bad and watched it descend. Surprisingly, the frog spread its 4 legs and webbed feet and gently descended to the valley below like a parachute, probably landed safely some place. At least we all hoped it did. That was before El Cap became a mere bouldet problem. Climb safely and have fun ;- )
+marcusdolby1 completely agree. The folks talking smack about aid climbing probably have never trad climbed or ever placed a piece of gear. I've been trad climbing for 5 years and now trying to learn aid climbing because I'd like to go after the nose or other routes some day that usually don't go free. I've been sport climbing for 8 years and that's how I started. All types of climbing have their purpose.
I've aided it, and i free climb .11a on gear. This wasn't exactly as straight forward as it looks. Yes, there are some jugs, but don't forget the free route goes at something like .13-
Aid climbing you can kinda fuck around and pay attention when it's asked of you. Ice climbing you're dodging shrapnel the whole time. Hell my belayer took a dump while I was aiding on the nose. But of course that wasn't very serious aiding
Good that you're out there doing this, but you may want to work on your system a bit. Clipping into the rope last is not ideal, plus you had 2 clip gates to a screw gate which was done up and on top of that you hadn't clipped the rope into the last 2 placements. Clean this up and bounce test your gear and you will be much safer out there. If that nut popped before you clipped into the last cam you could of been in real trouble.
I started climbing long before you where born, I mean a long time ago!!! Back in Royal Robbins day. Now I wouldn't do what you do now!!! I can barely climb scaffolding OK, but I have been looking over a lot of RUclips video's, first off I agree with the other comment of trusting someone else's placement. Are you nuts??? I saw the fall coming. Lucky your still alive!! Now for the rest of you PRO"S commenting on this climber - Back off of him. At least he posted a video, he is out climbing these walls, and I appreciate him posting his experience. Perhaps it will save another climbers life some day. Oh - nothing wrong in my opinion about AID CLIMBING enjoy Life and LIVE LONG!!!! Keep Having thrill and excitement in your life.
The guy had what, half a dozen pieces of protection between him and his partner? There was very little luck necessary to survive that fall - just as it should be! If your life depends on any single piece not coming out, you're doing something very, very wrong.
You don't know what the fuck you're talking about, I don't care if you started climbing in the jurrasic period, the fact is you're an idiot. Clipping marginal fixed gear like this is a BIG and COMMON part of the bigwall climbing experience.
Trusting other placements is de rigueur in aid climbing where the consequences of a fall are pretty low. When you are aiding you are pretty much sewing up the route because you have to. You have to be able to reach the next placement, and that certainly going to be less than your body length.
amateur question here, and maybe it doesn't really matter (multiple ways to climb) but that ackward ledge/rock he's climbing around, why not just climb on top of it instead of hanging off the side of it? I was thinking maybe he choose it to get the right angle of protection, but the top of that thing looks almost like you could scramble up it. And no i'm not a free vs aid climb whiner, I'm just thinking about simplicity.
RabidGoose22 looks over hung so it would b 2 hard to get above the ledge. its hard to tell in a vid but another way of approaching it would be to use heel hooks
+RabidGoose22 His second needs protection on the traverse. Without protection the second could take a pendulum fall. Can't place protection if you're just walking on that ledge. Also if he falls while heel hooking or walking there because of a gust of wind or something brings him out of balance the leader would pendulum into the wall and smash an elbow or a hip.
@zansmail He's doing fine. He'd probably do better with support rather than questioning his (correctly made) actions. What does "hooking it in the same direction as it was put in" even mean? Instead of being fearful, ask him to explain how everything works. Would you rather have it so that you share in his excitement or have him share in your doubt?
I never trust fixed gear and always weight test it. I only bounce test if I use it for pro but if I just want to move up I just wait test it before I unclip from the last piece. If every piece is bomber then your on A1 where's the fun in that. Good job on your 1st big wall.
I took a fall just above the next anchor from where this video takes place. My partner led this pitch and when I got to the anchor he noted that he had already clipped the first piece for me (a fixed pin) and had bounce tested it. Fortunately I clipped the rope through the anchor before starting up. After getting to the top of my aiders I heard a loud ping and shot past the anchor and ended up dangling in free space. Oddly enough I was elated and not scared, because at that point I truly understood that the systems we were using worked as intended.
The only thing I have to say is that the piece should have been bounce tested before fully getting onto it. Any fixed gear I clip (which is pretty much all of it haha) I always try to give a rigerous bounce test. Not just a little hopping but full hammering. Looked like a fun whip good job on the send!
I like sport climbing because you're always pushing to be a better climber so you can climb harder routes. How the hell do you get better at aid climbing? Is the only progression your ability to place gear???
It is technical, logistical and mental. you are always learning how to place better pro, more ingenuity in your placements (stacking passive pro, hooking, copperheading, nailing). you have hauling systems to learn and refine. you are always aiming to improve and become more efficient. a climber who aspires to climb the reticent wall on el cap at 5.7 a4 has a lot of progress(many years) to make from his first c1 wall. most climbers have no idea about aid climbing and wall climbing and all that goes into. These techniques will take a climber to the top of the tallest, most difficult walls in the world. Big wall and aid climbing is a sport in itself, the same as sport climbing or bouldering. Just remember, even Chris Sharma couldn't get to the top of el cap.
Max McKee crap comparison. Blind and disabled people have climbed elcap. I imagine Sharma couldn’t be bothered with endless faffing with gear and would rather go crank somewhere.
+Will Yermal Trad means traditional climbing and refers to how you protect a route. protect meaning the type of gear that holds your life. What you're referring to is free climbing vs aid climbing. Free climbing means using your hands and feet to make progress up the wall. Aid climbing means you use your gear to make progress. "Trad" a coined term, is just in reference to weather you're clipping into bolts or if you're clipping into hand placed removable gear. This route does go free 5.13b. So basically, if you're not a sponsored athlete who's been climbing in Yosemite for 25+ years, the only way to ascend the Leaning Tower in Yosemite Valley is to aid the 5.13 pitches and free climb the moderate pitches. There are very few climbers that can free climb routes like these in Yosemite. Btw, free climbing is not to be mixed up with "freesoloing" which means you use your hands and feet but have no rope to catch you in the event of a fall.
+Owen Hergel I saw it too, but though it was a helicopter seed www.google.co.uk/search?q=helicopter+seed&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwibutmZ4MLKAhVJChoKHSIvDqIQ_AUIBygB&biw=1252&bih=604
akaAlexthekid Ever heard of fixed gear? Please, by all means when you're aiding a big wall, don't use any fixed gear. Don't clip fixed nuts or pitons. That would be daft.
Jake Jones yeah I've heard of fixed gear, such as bolted routes, don't tend to use them myself, more of a trad climber. Pretty much every climber I have ever known wouldn't go near a nut they haven't placed themselves....
Oh, you're a TRAD climber. RAD dude! So you're a trad climber, obviously steeped in, well, tradition, but you've never clipped a fixed piece. Got it. Do you know that it's common on big walls, and even some single pitch traditional areas to have fixed pieces? Even anchors and rappel stations built from nothing but fixed pieces? So what are you going to do when that's your only option? Just be the bad ass that you are and run it out? Leave your own gear to rappel from? Man, I aspire to one day be the hardman that you are. You clearly have oodles of trad experience.
WTF!!! Nobody you know would ever clip a fixed piece! You must not know may people then. LMFAO! He obviously knew it was a sketchy piece. Listen to him. -but I agree; test, test, test. Still, an occasional short whipper on c1/2 keeps things exciting. (; Thanks for the vid.
@@McGreevyMD Thanks captain obvious. I meant "even" for aid climbing. My constructive criticism to become more decisive and simplify things to move faster in order to tackle big routes.
Looks like you think too much about every move you make. There's a lot of bouncing between gear, touching stuff without any progress. Are you having your belayer keep tension in the rope? I've never aid climbed, but, doesn't look to me like there's any rocket science to it. Glad your protection held.
I haven't seen the appeal of aid climbing, but that is just a personal preference. Without a doubt though, I respect the hell outta the technique and aid climbers. Suuuuper technical and riskier than sport. If that "little" fall didn't do it for ya, then you probably have little experience
Just wonder how the follower is going to clean it on this overhanging traverse. Going free as much as possible? Aiding it as a second? Do not underestimate the perils of aid climbing, fellas! It's those chills up your spine when you first transfer your weight onto a piece... especially when you know the fall is consequential. Great job!
Hah Beep go fuck yourself this was my first wall when I was inexperienced ...Not that I care about what you said, back then I did move slow. After El Cap I started to move much faster on much harder sections. If you look at the topo this section is hard 5.11. But I can see how someone inexperienced can see this 15 foot stretch easy...The part where I fell is a 5.11 d mantel.
I'll agree with that. If I were to give the author of this video one piece of advise, it's that you will never improve if you rely on aid for everything that is moderately difficult. However, maybe he does not care about being able to climb well, and just wants the experience of topping the climb by whatever means make it possible for him; in which case, what business is it of mine if he wants to use aid throughout every section of the climb?
I don't think you realize how much of an overhang that was....look at free dangling gear to get an idea of what direction was plumb and you will understand why he didn't free that. Not everyone is Lynn Hill....and this was his first big wall anyway.
Even if this pitch were easy to free, which it's not, It's easy to talk a big game at the computer. It's a bit different with a heavy wall rack and approach shoes on. I was climbing mid-5.12 sport and solid 5.10 trad when I did leaning tower, and I aided everything. And the mandatory 5.7 on zodiac, el cap, was very intimidating indeed.
The first ascent of the leaning tower took place in 1961. the first free ascent (if you can call A0 free) happened in 2001. don't you think they would have freed it back in 1961 if it was easier than the aid? even if you can climb 5.13b for 11 pitches up the most overhanging big wall in north america, you still have to pull some A0 moves on the first two pitches. C2F aid climbing is pretty fucking easy in terms of aid climbing. So let me know how free climbing the WFLT would be easier than aiding it? Stick to clippin bolts on your sport climbs braaaaagggggghhhh!!!!!!!
Even the best start out with relatively little skill. The only way to get better is to swallow the ego and climb like crap anyway - it's the only effort that leads to continuous improvement. Your comment makes you appear like an amateur, if you are an athlete at all.
Whom ever is having the most fun is the best climber .
All fun until you eye pops out:::)
not the piece i expected to pop lol
For those commenting on how bad it is to trust fixed gear. I suspect you've never done a wall. Leaning Tower, and more specifically the West Face is littered with fixed gear that requires you to trust or you substantially increase the aid rating. Get out of the gym kids.
+Nate .... "get out of the gym kids" At least those "kids" are actually climbing.
+Dat Guy so you are saying that plastic pulling is less artificial than climbing big wall?
+Dan Innamorati Where did you get anything about what is/isn't artificial? Big wall =/= aid climbing. Doesn't matter where it is, or what it's on, there's a big difference between climbing and rigging your way up something.
If your passion and joy comes from simply going up something, that's fine, no judgement, but if someone is going to be an elitist twat about what others do, they're opening themselves up for the same hate.
You were saying that aiding is less of climbing than gym climbing. By saying that, you are saying its a more valid way to climb. Theres obviously a very large cojones requirement for the hard aid climbing and it is the only way the other 99% of climbers can get up hard big wall routes! Maybe I didnt read everything before this but its annoying to see people hating on aid climbing.
You climbers bitch and argue alot
I had a micro nut blow out on the traverse section before you fell. Nice and overhanging there with a clean fall, keep climbing and learning.
I don't know why I torture myself. Watching these videos always make my hands and feet sweat.
Free climbers be hatin.. This pitch if linked goes at 512 R so if you wanna try go for it, then link video. Again this was my first wall so I was scared at 700+ feet exposed and climbing hard 5.11 with an Iron Cross start and a 5.12 R section higher up was out of the question. Also what is the point of free climbing this pitch? You have to do mandatory aid to get to it. Just watch the video with Lynn Hill and you can get an idea of what its like to free this pitch.
Don't know too many free climbers who can lead 5.12r who have enough of a bad attitude to talk trash on youtube, so fuck the comments. Nice climbing dude!
The "free climbers" talking shit are the guys who climbed a 5.12 at the gym or at Joshua Tree and now think they can do the same on big walls. Funny thing is the internet has millions of climbing experts who can lead free climbs of 5.12 on big walls YET the big walls in real life are pretty empty.....like this video shows.
@@megamilyon6111 climbed a top rope 5.12 once at the gym....now an internet expert talking shit about aid climbing. Not realizing some of the biggest baddest routes in the world rely on aid climbing to do get through.
This seems like way more hassling with gear than actual climbing
John Guy That's because it is. Aid climbing is shit. Free climbing is the way to climb.
+Anton Dotti Eklund I wouldn't say it's shit. Obviously it serves its purpose in the world of climbing
+Anton Dotti Eklund You gunna go free The Nose then bro? Otherwise you might have to get some aid gear out.
Honestly I really enjoy the challenge of gearing and using cams over bolts and quick draws. Its a lot slower, but hey, if you enjoy it do it
a shame somehow that u would hold on your gear rather than touch the awesome rock
Oh come on. So what if he used a piece he didn't place -- he just placed a bazillion pieces to get there. Even if a few of his own pieces popped he would have been fine.
Honest question here, and not trying to blast aid climbing. Is the camera making that look easy to free climb? It seems like placing your gear and free climbing is _the way_ to clear this section, but maybe thats my inexperience talking. comparing the exposure to the one trad climb I've done (Tuolumne, same rock!), you are not all that high up, so I'm thinking exhaustion isn't the reason of using aid, so it must be the difficulty. Was any free climbing done on this climb?
EDIT
I looked up Leaning Tower and now I understand.
This is more scary to watch than free climbing falls where a lot of the time you know dude is gonna fall soon instead of the ticking bombs here. Vicarious thrill seekers will subscribe to the "Aid Fall" channel.
I don't know basicaly anything about aid climbing. Is the clip at 1:20 really correct? Just seems a bit weird not use the sling on the cam and make that metal on metal clip with two biners. But then again, I don't really know aid.
The guy went for a sweet ride and got a free nut! That fall is safe and trusting fixed gear on the west face of leaning tower is inevitable. A bounce test would have a been good idea if the fall consequences were higher, as others mentioned.
It's nice to see you are having fun. I would just be paralyzed while shitting and pissing my trousers.
6:10 for the fall.
If you don't understand big wall climbing why are you posting dumbass comments?? This dude probably aided 99% of the route like most people do. Sure he might have been able to switch back and forth from free to aid and just pulled past this section but it's his first big wall. This was probably a lower out fixed piece that popped because it was placed poorly. There's so much fixed gear in the valley that its just faster to clip them and move on rather than trying to take them out and put your own in. You can only place gear where it can fit in arms reach so if he couldn't place anything else it would seem logical to clip the gear(and test it). If this was your first big wall and hadn't aided much you'd probably climb just as slow. Leaning tower is one of the steepest continuous walls in N. America if I'm not mistaken.
Did the wall surviveded?
Did the Cam hold?
Good memories. In '76 there were no cams and aid climbing was not yet frowned upon. We spent a great night on (what's the name again, Sandy Ledges?) and watched headlights first light up the edge of Wawona Tunnel and a few seconds emerge in full brightness. At times the wind was strong enough to blow the end of the rope up in wild coils, as if suspended by some genie. Is that dead we had to climb to start the route still there? Just curious.
Thanks for sharing man. Must have been wild back then.
Ahwahnee Ledge .
@@ksb2112 Possibly. I forget.
But at one point above that, while trying to place pro, something swooshed up from behind, seemingly crawled over my head and disappeared in the crack I tried to place the pro in.
It turned out to be a swallow, afraid I was threatening its nest.
Remember Mike Hudon (Hoodon?).
I did a few climbs with him in his early Yosemite days.
At a later point he (and Max Jones?) tried to free the Salathė. Way up he reached into a crack and felt something soft, so he withdrew. It turned out to be a small frog. Both, he and the frog were puzzled. Mark needed the rack to move on, the frog stalled for a moment and then leaped into space. Mark felt bad and watched it descend. Surprisingly, the frog spread its 4 legs and webbed feet and gently descended to the valley below like a parachute, probably landed safely some place. At least we all hoped it did.
That was before El Cap became a mere bouldet problem. Climb safely and have fun ;- )
Lol, I'd love to see all of those haters up there.
I agree, climbing this route using aid is still very tough. These haters are amazingly pathetic.
+marcusdolby1 completely agree. The folks talking smack about aid climbing probably have never trad climbed or ever placed a piece of gear. I've been trad climbing for 5 years and now trying to learn aid climbing because I'd like to go after the nose or other routes some day that usually don't go free. I've been sport climbing for 8 years and that's how I started. All types of climbing have their purpose.
Maybe its the cameras angle but at least that part looks rather simple to free climb.
Judging by the angles on any free hanging gear it seems he was on some pretty steep overhang....
@@rushthezeppelin he saidhe could walk on the ledge while cleaning. not overhung.
Maybe you want to free climb it for us?
I've aided it, and i free climb .11a on gear. This wasn't exactly as straight forward as it looks. Yes, there are some jugs, but don't forget the free route goes at something like .13-
Never could decide which was worse - Being the belayer for air climbing or ice climbing...
Aid climbing you can kinda fuck around and pay attention when it's asked of you. Ice climbing you're dodging shrapnel the whole time. Hell my belayer took a dump while I was aiding on the nose. But of course that wasn't very serious aiding
What a awesome climb, did it in 92. We had to use wind up disposable cameras to take photos,lol.
Good that you're out there doing this, but you may want to work on your system a bit. Clipping into the rope last is not ideal, plus you had 2 clip gates to a screw gate which was done up and on top of that you hadn't clipped the rope into the last 2 placements. Clean this up and bounce test your gear and you will be much safer out there. If that nut popped before you clipped into the last cam you could of been in real trouble.
I started climbing long before you where born, I mean a long time ago!!! Back in Royal Robbins day. Now I wouldn't do what you do now!!! I can barely climb scaffolding OK, but I have been looking over a lot of RUclips video's, first off I agree with the other comment of trusting someone else's placement. Are you nuts??? I saw the fall coming. Lucky your still alive!! Now for the rest of you PRO"S commenting on this climber - Back off of him. At least he posted a video, he is out climbing these walls, and I appreciate him posting his experience. Perhaps it will save another climbers life some day. Oh - nothing wrong in my opinion about AID CLIMBING enjoy Life and LIVE LONG!!!! Keep Having thrill and excitement in your life.
The guy had what, half a dozen pieces of protection between him and his partner? There was very little luck necessary to survive that fall - just as it should be! If your life depends on any single piece not coming out, you're doing something very, very wrong.
You don't know what the fuck you're talking about, I don't care if you started climbing in the jurrasic period, the fact is you're an idiot. Clipping marginal fixed gear like this is a BIG and COMMON part of the bigwall climbing experience.
Trusting other placements is de rigueur in aid climbing where the consequences of a fall are pretty low. When you are aiding you are pretty much sewing up the route because you have to. You have to be able to reach the next placement, and that certainly going to be less than your body length.
3:40 what was that? tape? some sorta plant thing?
É preciso muita coragem!!!!!
(IT TAKES A LOT OF COURAGE!!!!!)
Can't you turn your camera sidewise ? This would make you walk on a flat surface.
Great video man. Hope you're still at it
amateur question here, and maybe it doesn't really matter (multiple ways to climb) but that ackward ledge/rock he's climbing around, why not just climb on top of it instead of hanging off the side of it? I was thinking maybe he choose it to get the right angle of protection, but the top of that thing looks almost like you could scramble up it. And no i'm not a free vs aid climb whiner, I'm just thinking about simplicity.
RabidGoose22 looks over hung so it would b 2 hard to get above the ledge. its hard to tell in a vid but another way of approaching it would be to use heel hooks
+RabidGoose22 It's called Leaning Tower for a reason.
+RabidGoose22 His second needs protection on the traverse. Without protection the second could take a pendulum fall. Can't place protection if you're just walking on that ledge. Also if he falls while heel hooking or walking there because of a gust of wind or something brings him out of balance the leader would pendulum into the wall and smash an elbow or a hip.
Tell me, who the manufacturer of this rope, please?
Seems like a lot of carabiner-on-carabiner action there. Is that normal for aid climbing?
I don't think it's normal or endorsed for any form of climbing, but then have you met a sane aid climber?
Yes. That is standard big wall aid climbing. place your pro. clip a working 'biner to the pro. clip your aider to the working 'biner. hike up. repeat.
@zansmail
He's doing fine. He'd probably do better with support rather than questioning his (correctly made) actions.
What does "hooking it in the same direction as it was put in" even mean? Instead of being fearful, ask him to explain how everything works. Would you rather have it so that you share in his excitement or have him share in your doubt?
Great video. Very enjoyable.
cannot believe you guys made it
Did That Route in 94, and the fixed gear looked sketchy back then.
Poor guy has no idea what he is doing, keep on climbing!
Nope 😬
Fuck that traverse was heart pounding.
Is he still alive after this video??😊😊😊
I never trust fixed gear and always weight test it. I only bounce test if I use it for pro but if I just want to move up I just wait test it before I unclip from the last piece. If every piece is bomber then your on A1 where's the fun in that. Good job on your 1st big wall.
I took a fall just above the next anchor from where this video takes place. My partner led this pitch and when I got to the anchor he noted that he had already clipped the first piece for me (a fixed pin) and had bounce tested it. Fortunately I clipped the rope through the anchor before starting up. After getting to the top of my aiders I heard a loud ping and shot past the anchor and ended up dangling in free space. Oddly enough I was elated and not scared, because at that point I truly understood that the systems we were using worked as intended.
Yea Buddy! I led that pitch a few weeks ago, scary as shit, but still super fun!
Cool vid. Is it narrated by the double rainbow guy?
Bounce test, lol!! Noob..Good Job, I have done 2 routes up that wall Wet Denim A4 and West Face A2 fun stuff..
The only thing I have to say is that the piece should have been bounce tested before fully getting onto it. Any fixed gear I clip (which is pretty much all of it haha) I always try to give a rigerous bounce test. Not just a little hopping but full hammering. Looked like a fun whip good job on the send!
did that snap?
it is wstnit is.
probaly should blast a horn
u know if a hunter is down below
and survives the rocks
he be a shootin
Oh wow
But why aid the stuff that easily goes free? Don't understand. Explain?
Thats why you bounce test, lol.
What is that cows tail
+matthew lorenzi de fretes Metolius Easy Daisy
I’m sorry ….. I just don’t understand.. watching video? I almost past out from anxiety.. god bless you.. that’s radical.
I like sport climbing because you're always pushing to be a better climber so you can climb harder routes. How the hell do you get better at aid climbing? Is the only progression your ability to place gear???
It is technical, logistical and mental. you are always learning how to place better pro, more ingenuity in your placements (stacking passive pro, hooking, copperheading, nailing). you have hauling systems to learn and refine. you are always aiming to improve and become more efficient. a climber who aspires to climb the reticent wall on el cap at 5.7 a4 has a lot of progress(many years) to make from his first c1 wall. most climbers have no idea about aid climbing and wall climbing and all that goes into. These techniques will take a climber to the top of the tallest, most difficult walls in the world. Big wall and aid climbing is a sport in itself, the same as sport climbing or bouldering.
Just remember, even Chris Sharma couldn't get to the top of el cap.
Max McKee crap comparison. Blind and disabled people have climbed elcap. I imagine Sharma couldn’t be bothered with endless faffing with gear and would rather go crank somewhere.
Ask Colin O'bryan if the ability required to cross antartica is just walking
People actually climb like this? Thats so wierd.. And scary... Mostly scary.
Why not climb something at your limit instead?
whats the point of aid climbing rather than trad? i don't get the appeal, no challenge it looks like
+Will Yermal Trad means traditional climbing and refers to how you protect a route. protect meaning the type of gear that holds your life. What you're referring to is free climbing vs aid climbing. Free climbing means using your hands and feet to make progress up the wall. Aid climbing means you use your gear to make progress. "Trad" a coined term, is just in reference to weather you're clipping into bolts or if you're clipping into hand placed removable gear.
This route does go free 5.13b. So basically, if you're not a sponsored athlete who's been climbing in Yosemite for 25+ years, the only way to ascend the Leaning Tower in Yosemite Valley is to aid the 5.13 pitches and free climb the moderate pitches. There are very few climbers that can free climb routes like these in Yosemite. Btw, free climbing is not to be mixed up with "freesoloing" which means you use your hands and feet but have no rope to catch you in the event of a fall.
Waking up in a portaledge 1,500' up the captain might change your mind.
3:45 did you drop a quickdraw
+Owen Hergel Think it was a strip of tape. Not sure
+Owen Hergel I saw it too, but though it was a helicopter seed www.google.co.uk/search?q=helicopter+seed&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwibutmZ4MLKAhVJChoKHSIvDqIQ_AUIBygB&biw=1252&bih=604
I fell of in exactly the same spot!
Stomp test each piece before getting off last one.
I could only see free soloing just simply because all the gear you would have to tote
Man I hope I don't get stuck behind you ever. FFFAAAAFFFFFFFFFFF!!!!!
I wouldn't quite call that a whipper bub. Just saying
"Turn the camera off here as I prepare to change my pants and undies"
Did you place that nut? if you didn't then you're a bit daft for using it lol
akaAlexthekid Ever heard of fixed gear? Please, by all means when you're aiding a big wall, don't use any fixed gear. Don't clip fixed nuts or pitons. That would be daft.
Jake Jones yeah I've heard of fixed gear, such as bolted routes, don't tend to use them myself, more of a trad climber. Pretty much every climber I have ever known wouldn't go near a nut they haven't placed themselves....
Oh, you're a TRAD climber. RAD dude! So you're a trad climber, obviously steeped in, well, tradition, but you've never clipped a fixed piece. Got it. Do you know that it's common on big walls, and even some single pitch traditional areas to have fixed pieces? Even anchors and rappel stations built from nothing but fixed pieces? So what are you going to do when that's your only option? Just be the bad ass that you are and run it out? Leave your own gear to rappel from? Man, I aspire to one day be the hardman that you are. You clearly have oodles of trad experience.
WTF!!! Nobody you know would ever clip a fixed piece! You must not know may people then. LMFAO! He obviously knew it was a sketchy piece. Listen to him.
-but I agree; test, test, test. Still, an occasional short whipper on c1/2 keeps things exciting. (;
Thanks for the vid.
Nice
Less would be more. Especially the movements of the camera are too uncontrolled.
You missed a great small nut slot or a cam hook (if you had them) or even a standard hook.
Equipment means nothing without wisdom. 😆
i'm guessing zansmail is your mom? looks fun dude, climb on
He spends so long fiddling with straps and shit, but good video
@@McGreevyMD Thanks captain obvious. I meant "even" for aid climbing. My constructive criticism to become more decisive and simplify things to move faster in order to tackle big routes.
Thats what happens when you trust a fixed piece that YOU did NOT place. Glad no one got injured, although there are many risks involved in climbing.
This was not risky.....he had a sea of gear behind him to catch a fall. The only thing he was at risk of was getting a bit scraped up.
why so many dislikes the dude had bomber placement going all the way to that unknown nut
Did he died????
He didn't not dieded.
he dieded
deadmicedance If he did dieded he wouldn't liveded
tooked symbolic logics yearses ago
did can confirm
true
Looks like you think too much about every move you make. There's a lot of bouncing between gear, touching stuff without any progress. Are you having your belayer keep tension in the rope? I've never aid climbed, but, doesn't look to me like there's any rocket science to it. Glad your protection held.
Guess I just dont get the point here
I haven't seen the appeal of aid climbing, but that is just a personal preference. Without a doubt though, I respect the hell outta the technique and aid climbers. Suuuuper technical and riskier than sport. If that "little" fall didn't do it for ya, then you probably have little experience
Just wonder how the follower is going to clean it on this overhanging traverse. Going free as much as possible? Aiding it as a second? Do not underestimate the perils of aid climbing, fellas! It's those chills up your spine when you first transfer your weight onto a piece... especially when you know the fall is consequential. Great job!
oooooomayzing
Don't know why he aid climbing right there looks like a nice set of steps to me
all my years of climbing with the best in the world and I watch this guy putting the carbineers gates the wrong way. no wonder they fall
johnny6148 your comment makes no sense, what has all your years of climbing with the “best in the world” got to do with anything? Lol
6:28 when you smell your bellybutton cheese
Wtf? Bellybutton cheese? Never had that. Sounds rancid af
I see a few spots where throwing a sling around a point of rock looks like better pro than trusting that nut.
Haha nice
When you need that much stuff to scale the wall it isn’t even rock climbing anymore. It’s mountaineering.
Hah Beep go fuck yourself this was my first wall when I was inexperienced ...Not that I care about what you said, back then I did move slow. After El Cap I started to move much faster on much harder sections. If you look at the topo this section is hard 5.11. But I can see how someone inexperienced can see this 15 foot stretch easy...The part where I fell is a 5.11 d mantel.
shit, free offset nut, what's not to like? :)
don't you want some times just loose all of that equipment and climb for real just with your hands?
Huge fall..
have you ever heard about bouncetesting? adjustable dasiy is cheating, use fifihook and a real dasiy chain! cool fall!
that looked very very free climbable. just saying
I'll agree with that. If I were to give the author of this video one piece of advise, it's that you will never improve if you rely on aid for everything that is moderately difficult. However, maybe he does not care about being able to climb well, and just wants the experience of topping the climb by whatever means make it possible for him; in which case, what business is it of mine if he wants to use aid throughout every section of the climb?
Looks are deceiving...It sure is freeable...if you climb hard 12s or easy 13s...i'd be happy to belay you George...
I don't think you realize how much of an overhang that was....look at free dangling gear to get an idea of what direction was plumb and you will understand why he didn't free that. Not everyone is Lynn Hill....and this was his first big wall anyway.
Even if this pitch were easy to free, which it's not, It's easy to talk a big game at the computer. It's a bit different with a heavy wall rack and approach shoes on. I was climbing mid-5.12 sport and solid 5.10 trad when I did leaning tower, and I aided everything. And the mandatory 5.7 on zodiac, el cap, was very intimidating indeed.
Lol free nut!
Probably could have freed that section
Next time more climbing, less discussion... Faster is better,
but you made it anyway.
Oh some poo shot out just then.
You dont know how this cams work, do you? :D
Oh god, just fall already!!!
huh....
It'd be easier just to free climb the thhing
The first ascent of the leaning tower took place in 1961. the first free ascent (if you can call A0 free) happened in 2001. don't you think they would have freed it back in 1961 if it was easier than the aid? even if you can climb 5.13b for 11 pitches up the most overhanging big wall in north america, you still have to pull some A0 moves on the first two pitches. C2F aid climbing is pretty fucking easy in terms of aid climbing.
So let me know how free climbing the WFLT would be easier than aiding it?
Stick to clippin bolts on your sport climbs braaaaagggggghhhh!!!!!!!
man belaying would be soooooooo boring
Good grief... an exemplar tutorial on how _not_ to aid climb.
🙃🥂
You should climb free with no ropes, then no dumb videos
lame shit
you are not very good at aid climbing or free climbing. disrespect to the leaning tower.
Even the best start out with relatively little skill. The only way to get better is to swallow the ego and climb like crap anyway - it's the only effort that leads to continuous improvement. Your comment makes you appear like an amateur, if you are an athlete at all.