@@brianofalaska I'm wearing the La Sportiva TC Pros. They're climbing shoes and have a pretty stiff midsole so it doesn't collapse in the aider, and the aider has a spread bar at the top to prevent any given step from collapsing too much. I need the climbing shoes in the case I switch from aid to free, but some people will use approach shoes if aiding only.
Thank you RUclips algorithm - I’ve watched so many HowNot2 videos and dean potter Yosemite videos that your videos were recommended. Great stuff man. I’ve watched and photographed from the valley floor as people go up the nose section but this is exactly what I wanted to see close up
Of the thousands of climbing vids I think I've watched him my life (like watching paint dry), this was one of my favs. I couldn't help thinking the whole time, jeez, freeing this pitch would be no pizza party. Great quality vid, great work, congrats.
brings me back. When i did it it was nighttime and the roof was seeping with water. The most miserable pitch of the climb for me! I like how you also were like "it's all the same size" I just remember it was .4s for DAYS. Backcleaned like crazy. It was scary
These videos are amazing on so many levels. Thank you for shooting them, the quality is stellar. I'm just an old duffer free climber but really enjoyed seeing all of these videos. You appeared to really enjoy The Nose. I'm assuming you had climbed it before? I'd love to see a few shots of your camps. Thanks again. I can't believe more people have not discovered your videos.
Thanks for the kind words and glad you are enjoying the videos. This was our first time completing the Nose. During our preparation, we noticed uncut aid climbing videos were rare, and on the Nose was even more rare. We both decided we would share the uncut videos, warts and all, to hopefully give those looking for beta some help. My partner is working on a video that will show the camps, and perhaps upload his lead block as well. His account is GreenGloop.
@@cragsocks1726 Yes! I love the fact you have the majority of the route post. I've asked others to do this, and was even thinking of doing it myself, but they responded with some BS about "I don't want to ruin the mystic or some shit. It's a serious situation, and... having as much information can only serve to help! I'm digging through all your vids, I hope you have some with your bivy's. Much love man!
@@Sicnus Thanks for the love. I figured only the people wanting to find beta would actually watch since there are hours of uncut footage. Hopefully this helps someone send. If you're looking for bivy footage, my partner posted a full trip report video: ruclips.net/video/H8KoJTYhvno/видео.html
I actually started clapping when you finished that roof man. Great work! Thanks again (Sorry for all the damned comments lol) Question: Did you practice some cam hooking like that ahead of time? I damned sure am! heh. You handled it like a champ.
I appreciate and enjoy the comments. We did practice camhooking and the first time I placed one, it blew and I nearly broke my elbow. A NIAD party that passed us told me that they did two cam hooks on the roof. I took a look and said why not go the entire way?
Facepalm @ the "Reminder to take the nut tool out of the back pack." lmao. Dude, you guys are moving so quick and these videos are so good... and then I hear something like this and I just can't help but crack up. Love it! I'm going through all your videos. These are so helpful, and funny at the same time. ruclips.net/video/Iwle5RTfW4A/видео.html
What device is that you are using to draw yourself into your etrier? I like the your use of a standard rope to connect to the etrier and minimalism of that device. Haven't bought new gear in over a decade but I want that lol.
This is so helpful to learn aid climbing! Can you please explain why you decided to not place any protection for the last bit of the roof? Won't the follower take a big swing to your last piece?
Excellent question. There are a few fixed nuts right where the crack turns into the roof, and others have left tat and a lowerout carabiner. This sets it up for the follower to lower out the entire roof saving them from having to clean the pieces in the roof. It saves quite a bit of time, although yes, I as the leader could have taken a massive fall should one of those cam hook placements fail, but the fall was clean since the wall is vertical and blank below the roof. The crack was quite thin meaning it would only take microcams or small nuts. However, I really liked the cam hook placements and trusted in the physics.
Nice job. Epic cam hook traverse lol. That is a long pitch - I wonder what the free rack looks like. Maybe people pink point it? It sounds like your partner had done the nose before. What was your aid experience like going in? How did the Nose compare to your expectations in terms of difficulty/amount of time to do it?
Thanks, my hands get sweaty reliving it. There's a video of a kid freeing it on lead. I don't think it was pink point. Small gear only in the roof. My partner and I had attempted the Nose twice before this go. First time we bailed because we were way in over our heads. Second time it was 95F and we had a water leak, so we bailed after 15 pitches. We had done South Face Wash Col, the Prow in a day, Silk Road (Calaveras), Salathe (11 pitches), a day run to Dolt, and a bunch of single pitch aid practice. The first 4 pitches of the Nose are the toughest aid-wise, so if you can do those efficiently, the rest of it is mostly managing traverses, hauling, and other shenanigans. We had planned to finish in 3 days, but ran into some traffic at the Great Roof and had to spend an unscheduled night at Camp IV. Despite the traffic, our time was good as we usually got to each camp no later than 5pm giving us time to relax and have a hot meal, which made the whole adventure enjoyable.
Thank you so much for detailed video! Few questions. Were there any pitons on the roof section of the great roof? I couldnt find any through your video but the topo said there were 2 or 3
And did you feel more comfortable using cam hooks rather than cams? Were cam placements really really bad?? If you did not leave any pieces on the roof section, How did your partner clean all the gears??
@@user-bp2sb2wk5e There are only a couple fixed nuts before the roof crack, and a piton at the end of the roof. The crack can take microcams, but the cam hook placements looked very solid so I felt comfortable continuing on. It was a lot faster to just use the hooks as well. My partner lowered out from the 2 fixed nuts before the roof. This saved a lot of time vs having him clean the roof.
The Aliens use softer metal, thus tend to hold in place. Haven't blown one yet. The Z4's have been fine. I went with Z4 O/S because the rest of my rack is mostly BD aside from the Totems. Helps with identifying sizes.
So many nut placements... I'm like... oooh he'll put one here... oh wait he didn't... ooh he'll place one here.... and so on. :/ Are you just not really used to using nuts that much climbing? I guess it's all we had when I was a dirtbagger in the early 90's so... We had to get creative. We only had maybe 4 or 5 cams but two full sets of nuts.
My partner didn't want to bring any nuts if you can believe it. He's anti-nut. We ended up only placing one on the entire route, which is also unnecessary, but I thought I was running out of cams.
@@cragsocks1726 LMAO. This is both amazing and hillarious. Reminds me of a time we left our cams at home and did Whitesides NC (The OR) with only a set of nuts hehe)
Cams are faster to place and especially to clean. Try cleaning a nut that has been weighted. When you’re free climbing you rarely weight or fall on a nut so it is easier to clean
I can't believe this only has 12k views. I feel like half of them are me watching and rewatching.
The other half is me watching myself
Hey man what shoes are you wearing? Do you find the sole wraps inward due to the soft step of your aiders?
Thank you!
@@brianofalaska I'm wearing the La Sportiva TC Pros. They're climbing shoes and have a pretty stiff midsole so it doesn't collapse in the aider, and the aider has a spread bar at the top to prevent any given step from collapsing too much. I need the climbing shoes in the case I switch from aid to free, but some people will use approach shoes if aiding only.
Thank you RUclips algorithm - I’ve watched so many HowNot2 videos and dean potter Yosemite videos that your videos were recommended. Great stuff man. I’ve watched and photographed from the valley floor as people go up the nose section but this is exactly what I wanted to see close up
I figured these videos might help people looking for pitch beta. Glad you found them useful.
Of the thousands of climbing vids I think I've watched him my life (like watching paint dry), this was one of my favs. I couldn't help thinking the whole time, jeez, freeing this pitch would be no pizza party. Great quality vid, great work, congrats.
Great insight into how challenging this route would be to free climb it! Thanks!
"Lynn Hill is a freakin' boss!" - word! :-)
That sigh of relief at the end using that stick clip. Dude, that whipper would have been mega. Fuck that
Great video guys. Finally planning my trip up the nose for next year, working now to get my head in the right space. Very much enjoyed your video.
Inspiring!
brings me back. When i did it it was nighttime and the roof was seeping with water. The most miserable pitch of the climb for me! I like how you also were like "it's all the same size" I just remember it was .4s for DAYS. Backcleaned like crazy. It was scary
Oh, the constant anxiety of running out of a certain size. Thank goodness Erik Sloan's rack suggestion was perfect.
These videos are amazing on so many levels. Thank you for shooting them, the quality is stellar. I'm just an old duffer free climber but really enjoyed seeing all of these videos. You appeared to really enjoy The Nose. I'm assuming you had climbed it before? I'd love to see a few shots of your camps. Thanks again. I can't believe more people have not discovered your videos.
Thanks for the kind words and glad you are enjoying the videos. This was our first time completing the Nose. During our preparation, we noticed uncut aid climbing videos were rare, and on the Nose was even more rare. We both decided we would share the uncut videos, warts and all, to hopefully give those looking for beta some help. My partner is working on a video that will show the camps, and perhaps upload his lead block as well. His account is GreenGloop.
@@cragsocks1726 how can I get in touch with you ? I have some questions on RNWF beta. Are you on MP?
@@philipnesbitt6230 Yes
@@cragsocks1726 Yes! I love the fact you have the majority of the route post. I've asked others to do this, and was even thinking of doing it myself, but they responded with some BS about "I don't want to ruin the mystic or some shit. It's a serious situation, and... having as much information can only serve to help! I'm digging through all your vids, I hope you have some with your bivy's. Much love man!
@@Sicnus Thanks for the love. I figured only the people wanting to find beta would actually watch since there are hours of uncut footage. Hopefully this helps someone send. If you're looking for bivy footage, my partner posted a full trip report video: ruclips.net/video/H8KoJTYhvno/видео.html
Sooo sick !! good job dude
youre tellin me you couldnt lie back on that dihedral with moss growing out of it?! ;) jk. dude incredible video! Definitely a dream to climb el cap
so sick man. really inspiring, i will climb el cap one day
I actually started clapping when you finished that roof man. Great work! Thanks again (Sorry for all the damned comments lol) Question: Did you practice some cam hooking like that ahead of time? I damned sure am! heh. You handled it like a champ.
I appreciate and enjoy the comments. We did practice camhooking and the first time I placed one, it blew and I nearly broke my elbow. A NIAD party that passed us told me that they did two cam hooks on the roof. I took a look and said why not go the entire way?
Facepalm @ the "Reminder to take the nut tool out of the back pack." lmao. Dude, you guys are moving so quick and these videos are so good... and then I hear something like this and I just can't help but crack up. Love it! I'm going through all your videos. These are so helpful, and funny at the same time. ruclips.net/video/Iwle5RTfW4A/видео.html
I lived it 😁
How many cams are dropped off El Cap everyday?
What device is that you are using to draw yourself into your etrier? I like the your use of a standard rope to connect to the etrier and minimalism of that device. Haven't bought new gear in over a decade but I want that lol.
The Petzl Evolv Adjust. One of the many innovations in aid climbing that make things easier.
@@cragsocks1726 nice, thanks. Every little bit helps for sure. I was always terrified using my old school technique of a fifi hook lol.
Just watched again, you are also still using a fifi hook. Good to know, great video and thanks again. Hoping to do the nose next year myself.
This is so helpful to learn aid climbing!
Can you please explain why you decided to not place any protection for the last bit of the roof? Won't the follower take a big swing to your last piece?
Excellent question. There are a few fixed nuts right where the crack turns into the roof, and others have left tat and a lowerout carabiner. This sets it up for the follower to lower out the entire roof saving them from having to clean the pieces in the roof. It saves quite a bit of time, although yes, I as the leader could have taken a massive fall should one of those cam hook placements fail, but the fall was clean since the wall is vertical and blank below the roof.
The crack was quite thin meaning it would only take microcams or small nuts. However, I really liked the cam hook placements and trusted in the physics.
Nice job. Epic cam hook traverse lol. That is a long pitch - I wonder what the free rack looks like. Maybe people pink point it? It sounds like your partner had done the nose before. What was your aid experience like going in? How did the Nose compare to your expectations in terms of difficulty/amount of time to do it?
Thanks, my hands get sweaty reliving it. There's a video of a kid freeing it on lead. I don't think it was pink point. Small gear only in the roof.
My partner and I had attempted the Nose twice before this go. First time we bailed because we were way in over our heads. Second time it was 95F and we had a water leak, so we bailed after 15 pitches. We had done South Face Wash Col, the Prow in a day, Silk Road (Calaveras), Salathe (11 pitches), a day run to Dolt, and a bunch of single pitch aid practice.
The first 4 pitches of the Nose are the toughest aid-wise, so if you can do those efficiently, the rest of it is mostly managing traverses, hauling, and other shenanigans. We had planned to finish in 3 days, but ran into some traffic at the Great Roof and had to spend an unscheduled night at Camp IV. Despite the traffic, our time was good as we usually got to each camp no later than 5pm giving us time to relax and have a hot meal, which made the whole adventure enjoyable.
Thank you so much for detailed video!
Few questions.
Were there any pitons on the roof section of the great roof? I couldnt find any through your video but the topo said there were 2 or 3
And did you feel more comfortable using cam hooks rather than cams? Were cam placements really really bad??
If you did not leave any pieces on the roof section, How did your partner clean all the gears??
@@user-bp2sb2wk5e There are only a couple fixed nuts before the roof crack, and a piton at the end of the roof.
The crack can take microcams, but the cam hook placements looked very solid so I felt comfortable continuing on. It was a lot faster to just use the hooks as well.
My partner lowered out from the 2 fixed nuts before the roof. This saved a lot of time vs having him clean the roof.
how much did you size up your TC Pros to get them to be Aid all day comfortable?
Hah. 1/2 size with hiking liner socks.
Is your second jugging the lead line? Why did you need to add the extra offset for them just before minute 39?
Yes, the second jugs the lead line. The crack starts arcing to the right, so I wanted to leave pieces to make it easier for the second to clean.
How do you like Z4 offsets compared to Hybrid Aliens?
The Aliens use softer metal, thus tend to hold in place. Haven't blown one yet. The Z4's have been fine. I went with Z4 O/S because the rest of my rack is mostly BD aside from the Totems. Helps with identifying sizes.
Там столько мизеров а он ИТОшит, ппц.
So many nut placements... I'm like... oooh he'll put one here... oh wait he didn't... ooh he'll place one here.... and so on. :/ Are you just not really used to using nuts that much climbing? I guess it's all we had when I was a dirtbagger in the early 90's so... We had to get creative. We only had maybe 4 or 5 cams but two full sets of nuts.
My partner didn't want to bring any nuts if you can believe it. He's anti-nut. We ended up only placing one on the entire route, which is also unnecessary, but I thought I was running out of cams.
@@cragsocks1726 LMAO. This is both amazing and hillarious. Reminds me of a time we left our cams at home and did Whitesides NC (The OR) with only a set of nuts hehe)
Cams are faster to place and especially to clean. Try cleaning a nut that has been weighted. When you’re free climbing you rarely weight or fall on a nut so it is easier to clean
actualy not to hard to do. overated.