Truck Hitch Crane Build Ep. 7: First Test!
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- This is it, we finish off all of the fabrication and machining for the truck hitch crane and put it to the first test!
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Talked to a friend of mine who taught welding. He said the worm track problem could be caused by contaminated flux. If the wire has been sitting for a lengthy period of time it could have moisture contamination. Hope this helps. The crane build is fricken awesome. Heavy duty without the extreme heavy weight.
So that is why welders store their welding rods inside a refrigerator !
@@Garth2011 a small oven is better, there are ovens made specifically for storing rods and wire.
But moisture could wel be a major part of the problem, always seal rods and rolls back up or store them heated.
Especially flux MAG (active due to co2 so not MIG for inert) wire is prone to absorbing moisture fast
@@Garth2011 Dry fluxed electrode runs better too.
@@samuraidriver4x4 not all rods need an oven. Just certain ones
@@Garth2011 Yes, with heat to keep the rods dry.
I watched a lot of videos and yours is the 1st video that is fully detailed on building a crain.
Thank you for the great video and you did a great job.
Thanks.
Argon gas don't "go bad", but in some cases, after an extended period on time set up in the vertical position, they will separate, if they are a mixed gas. Argon-CO2 mixes, need to be laid down on the floor, and rolled around for a bit if you have not used them for extended periods.
I was gonna suggest he shake that tank before every use, like a rattle can.😃
@@greeceuranusputin Only if you have a Hulk on staff... lol
@@mdouglaswray Adam just has to bring some of that AbomPower out. :D
Definitely! I have experienced this with all my mixes . 75/25 and definitely my tri mixes . Two ppl make this mixing easy , basically kicking (rolling) it back and forth
That's what I thought too. AR is a Nobel gas (very low reactivity) and CO2 gas is in stable configuration which does not readily react. Sitting few years as he stated must have separated the Argon and CO2. CO2 being heavier, would be at the bottom. You can try to visualize by putting oil (75%) and water (25%) in a bottle in the same proportions... If you "gently" roll it, it will not mix as well. I would think the best way to mix the contents would be shaking it like a champagne bottle (mostly vertical and up/down motion)... Good luck with that :)
Adam, I don't know if you'll read this comment, but those bolts on the horizontal tubing to take up slack should be on the corner. That way it'll tighten up in both planes, and also it's much more difficult to crush or deform the corner of a square tubing. Great videos, love the detail. You're an amazing person!
Just something to consider -- if you have the landing leg down in contact before loading - after you load the truck is going to squat a little - may need to consider how you release tension on the leg if the load is high enough!
I would probably use an RV level jack that can be undone.
'short-pin' the leg; enough so when the bed is loaded, the leg just touches down for the load to move to the bed.
@@jbmillard take the truck to puddins fab shop for some air bags
When I designed mine, I decided on a screw jack as the support leg. I also made sure I can quickly remove the jack entirely so I can position the truck with the crane still installed.
I was thinking if the load is heavy enough the weld at the T could shear off
I might try manipulating your torch angles a bit. Try more of a drag angle, rather than right in at 90°. Also, I believe flux core wires benefit from a longer stick out than traditional wires. 1/2 to 3/4 inch is where I run fc often. The longer stick out allows the wire and flux to preheat before liquefying and transferring to the weld puddle.
Just some thoughts from a welder Abom! Fantastic job as always, nothing like using your favorite equipment for a personal project. Keep up the awesome videos!
👍😎👍
Dunno if Adam heard that but I certainly did - made a difference for me today, thanks for the pro tips!
I 2nd the longer stick out
@@myharris Glad I could help out! Also applies with self shielded flux core; many hobby machines run this and people seriously struggle on that stuff
👍
@@joshuateter2410 That is because the long stick out needed by the fc totally contradicts the "KEEP A TIGHT ARC, DAMMIT!!!" that gets shoved and bolted in your head when you learn or are taught any other welding method.
@@richardwoodruff1732 Thats whar she said.
Respectfully if I might suggest, it'd be better to have the holes distanced on a spiral down that pipe, instead of a straight line down. - That way, the weight of the load will rest on the entire pipe below a certain hole, unlike the case of the holes in line where the weight of the load will rest only on the little part between 2 holes - which could break under hundreds of lbs. - Also I hope the pin is very strong and won't be sheared by the 2 pipes. -- Other than that, great work as always, thank you for sharing it!
Great idea...
I was thinking the same thing.
Why not weld plate on the bottom and use the screw jack you already have.
I think I agree, though I will point out that this would make aligning the holes for pinning a fair bit more difficult. He clearly did think about how much space to leave between holes, so... hopefully it'll be alright.
I was actually thinking about having the entire post slide through the pipe instead of having an adjustable foot...the beam attached to the hitch would keep it stable, but all the weight would be on the foot.
that chuckle when he picked up the vice. hahah I love that feeling when you spend some time thinking of something to solve a problem and it works perfectly.
If it’s 75/25 it’s just become unmixed. You just need to roll the tank around for a while to mix it back up. I had the same problem a while back, and the air/gas supplier said it’s common, especially if the tank has sat for any length of time.
Thats right. I remember rolling tanks on the ground at my first shop whenever we changed tanks or brought tanks out from the cage.
I've never heard of that. Great tip thanks for sharing.
Yep, we don’t think about it but the gases do actually weigh different weights. In a bottle that doesn’t move, the heavier gas settles to the bottom. As they say, lay it on its side and roll it around. Some gases do expire. I remember when I worked at the hospital they had small little “E” tanks of oxygen and nitrous oxide on the anesthesia carts used in surgery just in gas the central supply had an issue during surgery. Of course, we never had any issues but we still had to check and replace the tanks every so often. We always vented them before we sent them back.
You don't use 75/25 for shield FC. You use straight Argon.
@@hibiki54 no you dont mte you run pure co2.
Thank you for posting this video. We just purchased a Lift yesterday and THIS is something that I was thinking about. Glad to find your video!!
Love watching you brother. You're an old school guy and I've learned a lot watching your channel. Thanks
I for one liked that you had to install a new roll of wire! I had no idea how that was done or how it worked. I'm not a welder at all, but enjoy watching you do jobs I'll never do, but appreciate the talent that folks like you have for doing this type of work. Computer geeks don't get much chance to even know how things like these get done.
If your putting a foot on it make sure you take a jack with you, if you load enough stuff to squat the truck your foot will be stuck.
wood blocks or cut off RR tie under the foot. spreads the ground pressure too
I like the idea of spiraling the pinholes for load bearing (giving a bit of art too). Also some kind of roll out design of carrier for the truck to put the jack neatly away in the back on both sides. So wonderful a thing to have. Great idea Adam. Thanks for the video.
I am not an expert at welding but why run shielding gas and then use expensive flux core wire. I have run tons of 30# rolls or copper clad solid wire with straight co2 or 75/25 shielding gas and get perfect and strong welds.
@@Histandard2011 The dual shield process, when all is right, lays a smooth nearly ripple free weld that looks great under paint.
When the load hits your truck the springs will compress , transfering the load to the pin which will cause binding 12:40
Most of the load is right on the ground through that foot.
I read it again, I now see what you meant, for releasing the device from the receiver and such.
In my opinion, instead of the extendable leg, there should be a hydraulic lift (hydraulic jack), such as in the arm. Greetings from Poland :-)
@@keithcarter4086 that little 3/8 pin will have binding problems at heavier loads, simple fix, modify a trailer tounge jack to relieve the load on the compressed truck springs other wise Abom has done a great job Hes one of the best, way better than I could sometimes a different prospective is helpful
To alleviate the load drop of the weighted bed, all he has to do is 'short-pin' the leg enough, so the sag of the bed under load, matches the 'short-pinned' leg length. Also, I'd drill more holes lower in the leg, in case of uneven ground (backed up to a curb maybe).
Thanks for the time you spend sharing your projects.
Adam, great job like always. Instead welding tubes on the outside of your square vertical section of your lift for rotating, drill a hole clean through that section and flush weld a piece of tubing in that goes through the vertical section then you can put in your jack handle from either side and you won't have the two pieces of tubing sticking out from the sides of the vertical section.
That’s a good idea!
I made up a version very similar to this one, but it ended up being very dangerous. With about 600kg on it, it would twist the bar connecting to the hitch, it would swing wildly when unloading as the suspension would unload and throw the crane off plumb, it also would swing when the suspension compressed, once again swinging wildly.
Another issue was any uneven ground made for sketchy lifts, as the crane axis was never plumb.
I ended up using 70x70mm square and made up a 3 point frame with adjustable feet at 2 outrigger points and one at the hitch. This way I could plumb the crane and negate any suspension movement. It also allowed for un even ground.
Happy to share pics of my setup. I would improve the design a bit more, but so far I have found the setup works well. Just a huge pain to keep attaching and removing when needed. Can't leave it on as it would hit car park ceilings and drive through awnings.
Adam, take your long jack handle and add an F style end on it to fit the square tube of your jack spine. Then you will always have it and no need to add pipes to the sides of the spine. Great job so far! Never thought I would watch 7+ videos on how to build a truck crane, but I am intrigued with the details.
Great idea.
You are a good teacher. It is thoughtful pf you to make videos and show us how this is done, every time.
Worm tracks from not enough stick out on the wire. The flux isn't getting hot enough.
I stumbled on this tonight and I'm so glad to see you building it. I've thought about building something like this for decades but never really had the need until now when I'm older
A nicely made device but I can see one issue, when you swing the boom so that it runs straight with the truck body I can see a twisting issue about the joint where the box section meets the round upright tube particularly if you find yourself loading on "soft ground" an outrigger that comes away from the tube at 90 deg from the box to the ground to stop it trying to rotate would be useful.
I thought on that too. I think the whole system is at risk of tilting with a heavy load towards the right side of the truck. I would have added a similar foot on the right side plus the same structure. Also some triangular supports for the long horizontal bar. The loads may be surprisingly high with loads on the order of 500 pounds. I hope this design will be strong enough,
Exactly. The twisting forces under a 1-ton lift will be enormous, and could twist the square tubing enough that the foot loses ground contact. Need to calculate the moment forces.
I should have responded here. You already raised the issue. Next time I will read more posts before jumping in!
@@jamestamu83 I think the critical thing is that if the load hook goes to the right of the hitch. Then the center of gravity of the load+crane may be to the right of the support point or line. Then bad things may happen with high loads. A second foot on the right would be helpful against this kind of situations.
@@jamestamu83 I believe Adams’s weight limit is 500 lbs. Even so the hitch bar must very strong to resist the twisting effect of the cantilevered load.
Well Adam in case you wondered how you should have done this just read every comment down here ... people are ridiculous with what "they" would do . Glad you built it how you wanted. I like it and it's gave me several ideas for my own . Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Adam. Great video. What happens when the load is in the truck, and the suspension compresses? Your pin is going to be locked in position. Best regards.
With all due respect to ABOM or Adam I actually agree with you here ... Those pins will be a pain when there's any significant load on the back of that truck
Attach a tongue jack to the leg. Raise it enogh to relieve pressure. Better yet, use a tongue jack instead of the solid leg altogether.
@@daddynichol52 that is a good solution .
He still hasn't addressed the issue i brought up of how he's going to counteract the weight of what he's lifting on a hill so it doesn't go swinging wildly
yeah, I do think two feet will be better as the truck has to take part of the load due to there being a moment being created as soon as you lift something
Whenever U Have 2 Operate This Amazing Shop Tool
You'll B The Envy of Every1 Out There !
Well Done Adam !
👏👏👏
🇨🇦
It seems ripe for a dolly/stand project that stores the unit while its not in use, and makes it easy to attach to the truck.
That's a good idea. Make it where you could convert it back to an engine hoist.
Nice build, and simple enough a kludge like me could do it. thanks for sharing.
For heavy lifting behind truck there will be a lot of torque at your vertical tube and crossbar, use caution on dirt or gravel... maybe a rubber pad, tire tread on foot. Also, how will you retract foot once the truck is loaded? A hydraulic foot or screw jack might be better than a pin.
To further that point, the entire bending moment caused by a heavy lift is carried through 2 point connections: the ground and the hitch. The ground probably needs an outrigger in the hitch direction. I would also triangle gusset the cove weld where the hitch transverse bar mates to the column. Great project BTW.
@@kenrolt8072 my thought was an outrigger to the rear, where most loads will be picked up.
Adam...the smile on your face when u picked up the vice was priceless!! You are a master my friend. Much respect for you.
On my Lincoln, when i am running 250 wire speed, i run only around 20 volts on .035 solid wire with the same gas you are running. To get more adjustment holes you can rotate the tube 10-15 degrees and you can have another row of holes.
Glad to see it works just as you intended it to. That smile says it all. Great idea, that turns into reality.
I think thats going to work great! Any load this is intended to lift shouldn't squat the truck enough to make disassembly an issue. Its not like this is made to move 1000lb++ loads .. 150 to 500 lb is more realistic.
I think i might have to make something like this.
Edit: argon mixes do "settle" .. i had that issue as a hobby welder with a tank that sits in the corner for months at a time between uses. I lay the tank down in the truck for a day before i plan on welding.
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Hey my friend instead of welding pipe onto your lift to help rotate why not weld say a 5/6 boss on the boom starlight and a handle that you can just let hang out of the way until you need it . Itll look better and and you wouldn't need to worry about losing a loose rod or forgetting it somewhere. Just a suggestion .Great work ! Always educational.
Awesome.
I'd have some fold out support legs rather than rely solely on the box section to keep the tube vertical under load though.
When I designed mine, I did something very similar to what Adam did. It was a while ago, so I don't recall the exact square tube dimensions, but I think mine is 2" square 1/4" wall? Maybe 3/8" wall... I don't remember which. I did a bunch of simulations in CAD and it held up perfectly fine. it DOES deflect enough to notice, but not enough to be a concern. Maybe 5/8" under a very heavy load? My design IS different (taper roller bearing turn table, cable winch, luffing jib, no hydraulics), but that horizontal box section is roughly the same.
@@52Ford yeah, but overkill fengs my shui, outriggers ftw 😆
@@gentlyschannel4193 👍😂 I needed a gantry crane to pick up the bed off my pickup... so, naturally, I made it to pick 10,000 pounds safely.
Edit: If you're wondering - It's a fairly large fixed A frame, with 4 crossmembers per A frame and a knee brace on each leg that goes up to the beam. Sits about 14' to the bottom of the beam. roughly 10 feet of clear span between where the knee braces contact the beam. A LOT of welding.
You can just lift the boom by hand, and it will stay up. Great set of videos.
Very nice. If you were in the EU, you'd be on Part 7 of "Acquiring Permits for the Truck Hitch Crane". If you were in Aus, you'd be in a camp for even thinking about building this.
Having a crane for BOTH endsof the journey has to be one of its biggest benefits!!
To reduce rhea amount of weight you have to lift when installing the crane, instead of bolting everything together, just use pins like on the foot on each end of the cylinder and the hinge joint of the lift. Takes a fee seconds to put together but saves the back and allows for easier storage.
greta job! didn't think about the actual weight of the upper portion...machining techniques learning a ton!
Hi Adam, great job on the crane. Just a thought thou, depending on the weight of the intended object to be lifted, have you considered after placing the item of, say, 500 Lbs or over, in the truck bed, the amount of downward force on the back axil, to remove the adjuster pin out of the hole of the support leg?
Enjoy your videos of all your channels. 😁👍
I think it's going to work well all of those that have commented that using bolts and not harden pins. I would agree if this was going to be used as a crane to load heavy things that would compress the suspension of the truck but if you are talking 500, 600 pounds it will work great. You designed it and built it and I for one would trust what you build far more than anyone else. And it's alot better truck crane then you can buy. Adam good job.
Instead of pushing your wire try dragging it… pinholes might be caused by slag inclusions. Or some flux core wires are negative wires, just check the polarity and check the shielding gas to run with it. Not sure on American colour coding for gas bottles looks like pure argon, may need argon/carbon dioxide mix
Sounds like a plan
another thing to consider could be a bad liner, I tried to see the gas bottle label and could not read it as he pans over it quickly, I think it is a mix though. clearing the diffuser might also help.
side note: In the United States, color-coding is not regulated by law. so, if you ever weld here read labels...
The Wesco blue bottles are 75/25 mix.
Miller lists all of the proper polarity on the inside of the cargo door.It shows flux core to be reverse polarity! He should check that gor sure.
I'm a auto tech and I have a Matco version of the bits you used. I like them I do lift kits often, I use those. Also when I install catalyst converter gaurds to install nutserts works quick clean and the bit doesn't heat up.
You're going to put way too much torsion and stress on the bottom tube connecting the crane to the hitch. These typer cranes always require bracing on the bottom especially if you want to lift anything of significant weight. Mine has braising and even with the braising sometimes it feels a little sketchy. Try lifting 500-600lbs you won't feel safe using it the way it is
Exactly what I was thinking, now I haven't welded anything ever, but Torque = length x distance and when he lifted that 200 pound vise he probably put close to 1000 pounds of force on that joint. I would definitely put a big gusset on the top and bottom of that joint.
Well, that's a half-ton truck, so you're not going to be putting anything significant into the bed anyways, especially if he's got it fully extended into the 1/2 ton position.
I knew reading the comments there'd be some good ideas 💡. I'd like to add a few.
#1 a swivel foot like ones on a c clamp.
#2 airbag suspension for the truck.
#3 fold down outrigger.
#4 linch pins so the hydraulic cylinder so you can install it after mounting the boom upright.
Lifting system capacity is limited by the *weakest link* under dynamic (not static!) foreseeable conditions. Intuitively this weakest link would seem to be the welded T joint on the vertical post to the horizontal square tube, which is leveraged by the load into bending, twisting, torquing forces all at once, all concentrated in the joint corners. This threatens to peel the weld apart under much less force than the design strength of the joint. The hazard is amplified if the truck should roll slightly, when the weld joint will be twisted by the leveraged mass of the truck! Hence it would seem prudent, with heavy loads, to *CHOCK THE WHEELS FIRST* .
I would agree, but like he said it was for 500-600 pounds.
I was thinking the same thing but if it was me i would add a removable leg on a caster to support the twisting force
So I want to build a hitch crane and googled it. Your video popped up, and now I want to be a machinist!! You explain so well, admit mishaps and create! I subscribed about two minutes into the first video.
That's awesome, Adam! I don't know what the cost would be to manufacture, but I imagine someone could sell a few thousand of those per year. Additional foot pieces for different truck heights would be necessary. I wonder if a trailer jack setup on the foot and footpad might be a workable solution to the varying height issues as well as the potential binding of the pin?
In finishing up the crane, a paint strip the width of the hole diameters and in line with the holes painted down to the foot will help line up the holes to insert the pin.
Personally, I think I would have staggered the holes on the foot to get more metal between them. Having them all in line like that looked kind of weak.
or have several holes in the receiver with different center distance. Vernier pattern.
I agree. Spiraling them as they go up will fix this problem.
metal stronk
I had a thought after seeing the crane all together. I wouldn't like the manhandling/setup before and after the lift, as well as taking up bed space transporting the crane instead of cargo.
What about cutting the vertical column between the lower cyl mount and the gussets. Fab and mount a hinge at cut on the opposite side of cyl.
When you are done with lift, close tailgate, swing boom out to the left, fully lower boom to storage position, then lay the whole unit down on its "back" parallel with tailgate.
You would also need to add a stand on the cross bar to support the unit when parked horizontally. That too could be hinged to lay flat on cross bar while gate is down.
Throw a ratchet strap on it, center the whole thing left to right to balance, and down the road you go.
You'd only have to manhandle it off the truck once you're completely done using it. Would also have the benefit of having the whole assembly in a horizontal position for mounting-dismounting.
Much easier on the body than trying to insert that tall structure vertically.
Just some thoughts...
Stick out too short. Read the welding wire manufacturer's recommendations.
And just a thought: What if there's a ton on the crane, the crane points straight back and that single foot slips? Can the bar and the hitch deal with that kind of torque?
Given the kind of torque those receivers get when taking a trailer over bumps and turning, I'd say they probably can.
@@BlackEpyon
That's not nearly a ton of torque under normal driving conditions - but anyway, I'm mostly worried that the bar can't resist the torque.
The bed isn't even rated for a ton. Why would he do something that ridiculous anyway. Look how nice the machining is. Do you honestly think he would go ahead and ruin his back saver? If so you are the one that shouldn't be using a crane.
@@Room_for_1_more_fruit_tree
Okay.
Certified knuckle boom operator here. Just a word of warning for your setup. Make sure you are on level ground when using this. Maybe attach a small sight level and keep the bubble in the circle. I’d hate for you to pick up a load and have it swing into you or your truck.
Also, you may want a screw jack under your hitch for heavier loads to prevent biding after the suspension settles.
Just a thought...the holes may be too close to another. Depending on load, there may be distortion developing. Installing a large threaded rod, with acme threads would provide infinite adjustment to the ground. Great project. Can't wait to see it in action.
Or he could have drilled them in a spiral.
Great looking job you always put great deal of time and thought into your projects. I made one similar years ago and it really comes in handy for those odd jobs.
nice build! great idea for removing and installing my 5th wheel hitch. thanks
No offense intended, but in my humble opinion, this is the perfect accident machine. Two tons of weight as a likely asymmetric shear-force on a 1/2" bolt of the foot? It's enough to make your toes curl. It is not a coincidence, heavy duty ball joints are used to avoid asymmetry and hardened pins in welded bushings to minimize shear forces in such applications.
Total agree
I would disagree because it's never designed to load items that are heavy enough to compress the suspension of the truck.
I definitely agree with what you said. Its most certainly true, but I'm pretty sure he said in a previous video that he didn't intend this crane to be used for lifting things much over a few hundred pounds. Just something to help save his back when he's alone and needs a hand lifting something into the bed of the truck.
I’m sure that Adam knows enough about his truck, shear strengths of steel, and loads he plans to lift to stay well within safety limits.
@@ellieprice363 It might surprise you, but bolts are designed to cope with tensile and compression forces and not with shear forces. That's the reason, why mechanical engineers always add dull pins and eventually bushings (both made from hardened steel), whenever bolts are subjected to shear forces. A bolt, pushed through a drilled hole of two concentric pipes can be easily sheared off by a simple force impulse. Since the whole weight of the crane and the load relies on one single rigid telescopic foot in question, any random slip-stick of the load is enough to invite disaster to strike. It's not a coincidence, knifes of parrot-beak bolt cutter tools always follow the very same geometry.
Practical system to avoid injury during handling. Very good job Adam.
That stilt wont work - I noticed you tested it lifting and setting down and picking back up from the bed, but you didnt load a few things from the swap meet or log pcs from the tree that fell, and then tried to pull that pin now that theres 500-1500lbs of weight in the bed....... You'll never get that pin out to retract the foot without getting out the jack from the truck to relieve the weight off the pin, because when the ass-end of the truck sags, the stilt on the tube is locked in!!!
I'm thinking a simple trailer tongue jack with a crank handle, attached and ditch the stilt altogether
Oh it’ll work and I can’t wait to prove it to all the naysayers 👍🏻 There’s more to the story than meets the eye.
@@Abom79 So many nay sayers
If he has air struts he can just lift the bed a bit No?
My thinking, also. This was an incomplete test. Getting that 'foot' retracted is a big part of the "test". I think he''l need to carry some kind of jack to get the pressure off the foot. "A Relief-Jack; Don't leave home without it!" I'm pretty sure he's already got a plan for that. 👍 😄
@@arkiefyler Anybody think the lift itself could easily be used to take the load off the foot? C'mon guys, think! It's right there!
Something I learned real fast with flux core welding wire is using the proper technique. With flux core wire you can not push the weld like with solid wire. With flux core in my experience you have to drag the weld just like stick welding. That way the wire is feeding back into the weld. And helps eliminate pin holes in the weld. Chang up the angle of your mig gun and try dragging the weld. It works for me. Also the correct polarity if important. Flux core runs opposite of hard wire
I agree 100%! That imformation is on the sticker inside the door on the cabinet,Miller puts the electrode configurations in there!
So, no gussets or triangular bracing? Does that mean you're relying on the compressive strength of that cylinder alone? What happens if it gets off-kilter? Would it bend?
The compressive strength of that cylinder is immense, and the weakest point in it is a solid bar of steel. I have dropped milling machines onto hoists like that and while the casters flattened, the cylinder was fine.
This thing is awesome. I've want to build something like that myself. Thanks for bringing it to us. I love the design and operation of it. Now I have to build one. Love the channel.
Awesome! As long as the guy you built it for is happy with it, you're guaranteed to have a repeat customer!
Nice really clever idea using parts of a engine lift to make that mini crane I watched you make it begining to now
What happens when the extra weight in the truck compresses the springs? How can you raise the foot of the lift if it is under pressure? One suggestion would be to use a screw jack like on a boat trailer for the foot of the lift. Great video, thanks!
If you watch the entire video series you'd see where he talks about this.
Adam you have the gift of teaching. Too, all too often, RUclipsrs do not show the maintenance steps. You do. If you are teaching welding, and you clearly are, this is a wonderful, necessary step to show. You might think that you have nothing to teach, but I promise you some viewers are watching you load the wire and thinking "OMG that is what I have been doing wrong!" when you mention serrated feed-wheels, the wiper and its clamp, I bet a lot of people watching now know how to improve their welding. Just do what Adam does when loading the wire.
Coming up next time: mini truck crane to lift the full truck crane into position. :D
Looking great Abom! Keep up the awesome content!
Works great love this build
Hi from the UK 🇬🇧 great idea I'm going to make one for my C30 dually. Your weld problem might be if you're using flux cord wire you don't need gas try it gasless. 👍
Very nice build Adam, thanks.
I like when you are "happy with it" It makes me smile too.
Great build built better than some you can buy
How nice is that!
Even if you have help, picking heavy stuff up is never good.
And that worked out very neat, something you can show off.
Kind regards,
South Africa
Very nice work, and I was really happy to see how it made you smile! Lots of aggravation and doubt up til now, and little things like running out of wire or getting those pinholes in the bead only adds to the sense of frustration. But, when all's said and done..... she works! A real treat, Adam.
That crane job is as slick as deer guts on a door knob!!! Great job!
Congrats on that build - works like butter!!! You are a master !! So, so cool brother !!
For your leverage bar/pipe. You have more torque down lower. The area that you have already ground the blue paint off of would be a perfect spot. What a fun build.
Abom, I will call that hoist a win and a huge back saver, Enjoyed the ride along, Thanks.
Enjoy your videos - always something for all of us mechanical nuts to learn from each other and enjoy!
Adam has the best smile! He's proud of what he's done.
Instead of welding pipe on the outside of the square tube for rotation, weld a pipe through the middle of the square tube. Much cleaner and will never fail. Also, you could do the same for your adjustment holes on the down leg. That would help you feed in pin and extract pin.
Oh and it's still not too late to use a cranking trailer jack for your downleg....😁
Great idea and execution.
Redundant verbiage.
Really like to hear your self talk.
Way to go Adam! So useful. Perhaps a gantry crane over your entire slab, for those bigger jobs? I know you probably don't actually need one, but...
Enjoyed seeing Adam's grin when he saw how well his design works.
i love it when a plan comes together! next thing i think you will be getting an Anvil and start doing some Iron Working.. have fun!
Im a boilermaker welder here in Australia. I had the same issue with fluxcore running mixed gas. The solution i found was to swap to straight co2 even tho the box the wire came in said 75/25. Never had an issue since.
Adam I'm no machinist I did repair mining equipment underground for my life time but you sir are one high caliber machinist at the very top and I take you as an outstanding person really love your videos and I'm nearing 70 now and I have been around the barn a few times keep up the great job you're doing and stay safe my friend that is if I can call you my friend
Weld on a short piece of pipe and use the long jack handle to rotate the crane. Also drill a hole in the bottom of your trailer hitch, weld a 1/2 inch nut and put a bolt up through it and tighten it against the draw bar. It will take out even more slack.
I think you did a freaking Great! Job with this! Good work man.
Those large cutters are just raw awesome
Now for a truck option - a 3x3 pallet so straps can go around it without picking it up. The small pallet is light - or heavy 4x4 sides... heavy. Lift off with fork lift on other end or your crane. Cool. Time of life - wheel chair is possible.
Running out of wire would definitely cause welding machine problems. awesome series Adam you never cease to amaze me
Nice series, commin along nicely.
Thank you very much.
Great job building something from scratch and of your own imagination. ( And always remember it's easy to edit a book that's already been written.)
45:20 Adam, you very well deserve every bit of that smile! There isn't a boy in the world that doesn't enjoy playing with cranes, especially one he built himself!
Replace the bottom foot piece with a small bottle jack. Definitely adjustable and collapsible.
That's a marketable. PATTEN IT nice work
I'll send over some custom pieces I made for many many years in my machine and fab shop that will go along with your truck. You're a good guy Adam....
The pin with the push button has to be hollow for it to work and therefore has a lower shear strength. Even a 3/8" solid pin seems a bit on the small side. Take a clue from the pins on the hoist arms themselves.
Put the rotation handle socket down at the flanges; that's where the load is (the friction is the load).
Parameters, not perimeters.
On the positive side, the most important thing with any project is that it actually gets done. Enjoy the fruits of your labor.
In regards to the porosity and worming in the welds. Depending on your nozzle and defuser size, your gas regulator may be set to high. If the the cfm is to much the nozzle actually creates a Venturi between the tip and the work piece which will pull atmosphere into the weld pool and displace the shielding gas. Even though argon is heavier than air, the velocity of the argon starts to be a problem after a certain point.