Just an old man's suggestion but I always cover the throttle body openings and stuff CLEAN rags in the spark plug holes or leave the spark plugs in place until it's time to swap them out. If something like a small fastener or washer falls into a combustion chamber, you're going to be pissed at yourself. You might get real lucky if the errant part is ferrous and you can retrieve it with a telescopic magnet through the spark plug hole. Good video by the way.
An even cheaper way is fill the stock cover outlet with JB weld get rid of the rest and find a bolt to fit in the airbox hose cut a peice of the hose off and make your own cap.
2 things that you can do after removing the solenoid and it's associated wiring&hoses - leave the reed valves in ALWAYS: 1) Just put caps over the barbed input (14mm?) on the reed valve covers 2) install the blanking plates (Honda need a dimple recess for the reed valve screw - if you don't want to destroy the reed valves.... Reed valves - their rubber seal is crucial to sealing the blanking plates your way there is a strong possibility of exhaust passing by the blanking plates and leaking carbon stains over the cam cover.
At no point did you decide to take the dead bug out of you engine? Like you just passed a rag 2 inches away from the bug but decided it would be better inside?
i've seen a spider destroy a car engine.. dude did his tappits, had the engine open overnight.. a few days later, seized engine. dude found the spider in one of the oil passages upon cleanup
I did this mod on my ST1300, The big issue is that yes now you have an accurate way of reading the AFR but can you take away enough fuel because it will make that Idle and below Pig fat. it was reading 11.5 and wanted to stall several times. I have an 07 so I cannot fix this area. I experimented with using different diameter plugs in the pair valve hose and found one that lets just enough air in and kept the idle normal and no popping. The hole ended up being a tad over 7/8"
It will throw a light. Smartmoto have a kit for like 40$ and it comes with some engraved blanks, a rubber cap for the airbox, new screws and a connector which looks like it has a resistor in it I assume to make the bike think the AIS is still there and give no lights
Did you drop your bike. That is why I plugged mine and ran a filter from my crank case (clean airmod) and I fully stunted my bike out so I ride the bike for what it wasn't made more
THE "LITTLE BUCKETS AND ONE-WAY VALVES THAT YOU POPPED OUT MUST STAY IN!!! If you notice, there is a rubber o-ring, that is not to come out. You leave both of those in just put the smog plate over that. Watch other videos, it just goes to show you that not everybody knows what they're doing.
After watching this video why is Yamaha oh I guess they all do it from what I've seen injecting air into the exhaust started in the 1970's with the air pumps they put on vehicles that usually locked up with very few miles this is ancient history didnt know they still go about it in that way
Just an old man's suggestion but I always cover the throttle body openings and stuff CLEAN rags in the spark plug holes or leave the spark plugs in place until it's time to swap them out. If something like a small fastener or washer falls into a combustion chamber, you're going to be pissed at yourself. You might get real lucky if the errant part is ferrous and you can retrieve it with a telescopic magnet through the spark plug hole. Good video by the way.
An even cheaper way is fill the stock cover outlet with JB weld get rid of the rest and find a bolt to fit in the airbox hose cut a peice of the hose off and make your own cap.
2 things that you can do after removing the solenoid and it's associated wiring&hoses - leave the reed valves in ALWAYS: 1) Just put caps over the barbed input (14mm?) on the reed valve covers 2) install the blanking plates (Honda need a dimple recess for the reed valve screw - if you don't want to destroy the reed valves....
Reed valves - their rubber seal is crucial to sealing the blanking plates your way there is a strong possibility of exhaust passing by the blanking plates and leaking carbon stains over the cam cover.
iv done this on my gsxs 1000 ,kit came with an eliminator too to stop f1 codes .. nice job man .
Yeah man. Seems to have made the deceleration smoother
At no point did you decide to take the dead bug out of you engine? Like you just passed a rag 2 inches away from the bug but decided it would be better inside?
Of course not
R6Arel Bug juice fights friction and heat on a whole other level
@@HeyDude93gt holy 10 month revival
They're combustible.
i've seen a spider destroy a car engine.. dude did his tappits, had the engine open overnight.. a few days later, seized engine. dude found the spider in one of the oil passages upon cleanup
I did this mod on my ST1300, The big issue is that yes now you have an accurate way of reading the AFR but can you take away enough fuel because it will make that Idle and below Pig fat. it was reading 11.5 and wanted to stall several times.
I have an 07 so I cannot fix this area. I experimented with using different diameter plugs in the pair valve hose and found one that lets just enough air in and kept the idle normal and no popping. The hole ended up being a tad over 7/8"
Is old mirir motor for sale?
What about the electrical connector? Does it throw a code or just left unplugged?
I left it unplugged and didn't get a code
You can remove the reeds; however, you need the insert with the rubber seal or you will have a vacuum leak. Lbs.
ithink you should have left the air reeds in so you get a proper seal.
this is correct. all he needed to do was remove the smog plates, connector and hoses and mount the block off plates. lol
What engine is that
Does the bike throw any errors or lights when you take off the smog stuff? What do you do with the plug on the bike side?
It will throw a light. Smartmoto have a kit for like 40$ and it comes with some engraved blanks, a rubber cap for the airbox, new screws and a connector which looks like it has a resistor in it I assume to make the bike think the AIS is still there and give no lights
Would using marbles to put in the three houses be sufficient to delete the operation of the smog device?
Yes
You only need to put one marble in the hose leading from the airbox.
Can't you just leave the ais in place and block off the hose with a marble at the air box? I'm cheap as hell!! 😆🤣
Yep.. That was the old school way of doing it
Yes you can!
I have a 22 ZX10R and I'm just going to remove the Sprint air filter put a marble in that vent hole call it done
You did reuse the old rubber gasket to seal it
Yes I did. They were in great shape
So, was it worth it!?...
Hi this is a bit off topic but I took the smog block off plates from my r1 engine and I found oil in them. What’s could be the cause
Did you drop your bike. That is why I plugged mine and ran a filter from my crank case (clean airmod) and I fully stunted my bike out so I ride the bike for what it wasn't made more
@@lowkeyhim556 r6?:)
THE "LITTLE BUCKETS AND ONE-WAY VALVES THAT YOU POPPED OUT MUST STAY IN!!! If you notice, there is a rubber o-ring, that is not to come out. You leave both of those in just put the smog plate over that. Watch other videos, it just goes to show you that not everybody knows what they're doing.
Is that why my bike blew up
Yeah dudes a dunce.
After watching this video why is Yamaha oh I guess they all do it from what I've seen injecting air into the exhaust started in the 1970's with the air pumps they put on vehicles that usually locked up with very few miles this is ancient history didnt know they still go about it in that way