EP 29: WILL IT RUN?! 1600cc Final Adjustments / 1967 VW Type 3 Squareback
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- Опубликовано: 6 апр 2023
- Engine build is complete. Now onto a few minor things that require my attention prior to initial start. I ran into a couple hiccups, but nothing I can't handle. Once everything was sorted out, the engine roared to life. I discovered the carburetors might need rebuilding, but besides that, everything seems to be in good working order.
Instagram: @sirtalksalot
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Good work getting it bench tested. Made me laugh holding the spark wires and testing them that way.😂
😮 every time I saw your finger on the plug itself I knew you were going to get shocked. I was screaming no grab the wire.!!!
I was just laughing the first time waiting for the scream of ouch 😂
i have a moneypit 67 Bug that i drive every day that ran a 11.51-@121 in the quarter mile. embarrassed a lot of V8 owners, especially Mustang owners... lol. VWTUFF for live.
Good stuff! I have a longer bolt in the clamp on the distributor side with a little sleeve over it between the nut and the clamp itself. Makes it pretty easy to loosen the distributor clamp as the nut is now straight down between de destributor and the fan housing.
dude that's awesome! Is that DIY or something you bought?
@@jeremydoc It's DIY. Not sure I explained it good enough. If you need a picture or some measurements just let me know
@@pascalz9992 yeah, please! I'll be replacing my Distributor from the 009 over to a SVDA Flamethrower one in the very near future, so I'd like that opportunity to swap out my clamp situation as well.
If you have Instagram, mine is @Sirtalksalot
That's how they were from new.
Check fuel pressure. It shouldn't be more than 3 lbs.
Install a regulator and you won't regret it.
Too high will cause leaky carb.
any specific fuel regulator you recommend?
You shouldn’t put a battery directly on a concrete floor, set it on a piece of wood or heavy cardboard.
I did not know that, thanks for letting me know!
get yourself a proper distributor with vacuum, the carbs are designed for it.
Refer to Episode 36 haha
Where did you find the bits for your oil temp and pressure? I am in the process of adding guages and looking for solutions for a multiport to plug into the cooler like yours. Thanks!
Hey buddy, sorry for the late reply. For the oil temp/pressure gauge, I found it on Amazon. You can search “Glow Shift Oil Temp/Pressure Gauge”. FYI, this set up has imperial threads while the engine has metric. So you’ll have to source a proper adapter fitting to make it work. I found the adapter on EBay. Hope this helped :)
@@jeremydoc thanks for getting back to me. It seems like you’re the only person who’s made an in depth Type 3 “rebuild” video. I’ve found it very useful so far in my type 3 journey. Still making my way through your videos. Cheers!
I’m learning as I go and spreading the knowledge! It’s the exact reason why I started making videos, because I could never find what I was looking for. Appreciate your support and glad my videos are helping.
I found your oil to be too transparent. After searching the keyword API I found the following note: So wird bei Motorölen für Ottomotoren von "SA" für unlegierte Mineralöle bis zu "SP", der derzeit höchsten Leistungsklasse, unterschieden. If I understand correctly, you used a synthetic oil that will ruin your engine. It may be that this oil dissolves the lead from the bearings, but it will definitely damage your NBR seals and it has a completely different part swimming behavior. If you have used a synthetic oil, you should drain it as soon as possible and replace it with a simple, inexpensive mineral oil. This is the only way to prevent damage caused by breakage of the lubricating film or foreign particles.
What exhaust and muffler is that? Source?
headers were just some standard Type 3 headers I found in the classifieds. Muffler is a Tri-Mil.