You missed explaining turning the crank to ensure the valve that is being worked on is fully seated. I hope viewers understand that - otherwise bigger problems.
Yes, thank you. I don’t use a script or anything so things just flows as I do the work. But I’ll be more careful to make sure those very important details are not left out.
Great video! Thanks dude, I think I'm having this problem, 69k miles and it's very rough at cold start, sometimes it feels like the car will stall, and then it goes away 10-15sec later
Hawdee Tech you should do a leak down test cold. Spark pugs give a symptom like that too, you will need a scope to see the secondary or primary ignition wave forms so a leak down test is the easiest to rule out valve sealing. Good luck
Maic Salazar Diagnostics I've just had the piston rings and valve stem seals replaced. Just spoke to the guy who done it he said he walnut blasted it as well (it says that in the receipt) but I wasn't sure if he done the intake which he said he has. So not sure what the problem is
This was a chronic problem, especially with the 2007 Turbo engine redesign. Mini denied it for years and blamed everything they could down to the brand of fuel in use.
As long as you use it since day one maybe it will help to prolong it, but cleaning will be need it no matter what. That is why now manufactures are using double injection systems now. One helps for emissions while vehicle is cold and two keeps intake pockets clean.
Does this need to be done to 2007 non turbo r56's too. I just bought one with 130k and I changed the spark plugs but it is still hard starting on cold start w/ rough idle for a few minutes. Check engine light is on as well too.... I'm thinking it's the fuel filter and/or carbon build up
Michael Barber this one is hard to do. You have to choices: 1 - walnut with special adapters and very expensive. 2- using picks, small screw drivers, brake cleaner and gum cutter ( you’ll need to use a mirror to see since all pockets are in the back) also use a towel to cover the holes when blowing air to clean and inspect) The second takes just a little longer. Make sure that the Cyl you will work on it is at top dead center and that valves are closed, after all is clean, spin crank shaft to move valves to fully open and blow air thru the spark plugs so any little fluid or carbon gets out.
Did you have to re position the crank to close the valve on each cylinder? or with the spark plug open do you blow through there to make sure it blows away from the piston?
i have a similar problem but mine seem to be worse when hot, i just replaced all my coil 2 mths ago? My car is a manual, i feel a lost of power when i start off and also my RPMs jump up after i let off the gas?
I’m probably just gonna pay the 400$ and get it walnut blasted! Just to be safe. I noticed shops charge up to 800$ I found a place in Ventura for only 400$. Where are you located?
So far watched a lot of mini related videos on other channels as well and I can say that Maic here is one of the best mechanics among them. I would really apprecite your advice on one thing that's bothering me for some time, misfire on cold startup on all cylinders but especially on cyl 2. I've changed spark plugs and coils and from diagnostics desired vs current HPFP pressures are pretty close. I also recorded cylinder 2 and 2 with borescope and there seems to be small pool of liquid on the piston, please take a look at my channel for short video. Any advice on what it could be is welcome. Thanks
It is a little hard to see and give you a full advice. But knowing these engines you most likely have carbon build up and that gives cold start misfires. The Cyl 2 looks like the injector might be leaking too. Do this test: Run the engine to fully warm and then turn it off and turn igntion back on while obvseriving the fuel rail pressure. Pressure has to go up, it stays or goes down then you have leaking injectors. Let me know what do you find with this test. The reason why the pressure has to go up, is beacause by you turning the ignition back on then the pump is close and now the rail has trapped fuel in it, that will boil. So if pressure goes down the only thing that can now leak are the injectors!!
@@MaicSalazarDiagnostics So if I understood correctly when engine is fully warm and turned on, turn it off and than turn the ignition on, meaning motor is not running? I did this and HPFP fuel pressure started dropping immediately as I turned the engine off. After I turned the ignition on as soon as possible high pressure fuel line dropped from 5MPa to 0.5MPa. Or did you mean I should watch for low pressure fuel line?
An update, I went through the tank of petrol with Liqui Moly fuel injector cleaner and result is lower RPM on cold start and less misfires so the CEL is not tripped anymore. I still can see logged issues with diagnostics but there is no check engine light.
Heya Maic, great video! Would carbon'd up valves / pistons cause a rich condition with carbon monoxide output steadily increasing with the engine kept at 2500 revs? We had our mini (2010 1.6 petrol with 60k miles) hooked up to an exhaust gas analyser.
@@MaicSalazarDiagnostics I will thanks! There are no missfires. My local mechanic told me that they thought it was extremely likely that the timing of the engine is off. I bought the crankshaft / camshaft locking tools, they all went in perfectly; I rotated the crank four times and they fit in perfectly again so the timing is fine.
This issue isn't fuel related. it's caused by the PCV value recirculating oil fumes from the valve cover back through the intake. Fuel treatments won't help. For the video poster, a 100% better solution is to walnut blast the intake valves. Picks and carb cleaner are NOT the way to go. That shit will drain into the cylinders when breaking all those deposits out.
Hi, Ray did you find how to solve that problem, I am having same problem.....Need to crank 3 to 5 times before the car start when motor is cold, once it starts run good also... Hpump I guess.....
Awesome. Thank you for the quick response! I’ve been chasing a lean 2BC0/p171 fault for weeks and have changed pretty much everything except the low pressure pump in tank and no vacuum leaks in the intake or exhaust. I’m gonna check and perform this service and let you know.
Francisco Lafont no, I use a long thin screwdriver or a small pick, brake cleaner and shop air. The paper towel is only to cover while I am using the air so all the carbon and cleaner don't spray everywhere!
Hey great Video man! Can I use a steel brush or steel wool with chemical cleaners and scrub it? Also how to you shut the valves completely? Thanks again.
Alfred Sanchez how bad was the carbon deposits? You make sure that the valves were close in each cylinder at the time for cleaning? Did you disconnect injectors and coils?
Maic Salazar Diagnostics The valves were pretty bad. Yes the valves were closed. After reassembling it all I found my battery was bad. I replaced the battery and now no start. Everything turns on, engine turns over, just no start.
Without a boroscope you are really blind on this, toofar back and down to see. Mirrors? No way dudes! Renting it and a blaster would be a game changer.. anybody know if that's possible
Es en realidad muy simple, lo que uso es Gum cutter y lo dejo unos 5 minutos, despues uso un pic y un desatornillador pequeño para arrancar el carbon mas pegado. Esto lo repito varias veces hasta conseguir que queden bien limpias. La próxima ves voy a grabar todo el proceso.
Its effectiveness is debatable, if you put it in the fuel it wont do anything since the fuel never touches those valves (it would probably help the injectors themselves a little) Itd have to go through a vacuum port with the car on, shut it off and let it sit then you gun it. However I heard that its inadvisable with turbo engines since a flake of carbon could get caught in the turbo and damage it. Just what I heard, I need to do more research because its definitely more accessible than walnut blasting twice a year.
I have not Walnut blast my car I’m sure everyone that see with tell I’m stupid! But I haven’t seen no very many people and they’re talking about Walnut cleaner Walnut blast whatever they still have a lot of carbon buildup now all I do is look at peoples cars and see a lot of carbon buildup on many cars and like a walking sniffing car dog for things that could possibly be wrong or smells wrong coolant white smell like smoke riders Browns smoke ext
Use Techron. It’s the same crap they charge you 90$ for at the dealership to put in your tank. Only add ass directed by the bottle(I believe one full tank before your next oil change)
Get Off My Spaceship not really, remember that injectors are in the cylinder on these engines. So the best you can do is use good oils specific for European cars and no more than 5k miles.
Fantastic video. I had this done at my local shop but wanted to understand it better. You're a great teacher. Very educational. Thank you!
vara fouroneone thank you for you kind comment
Very educational Excellent video thanks again I’ve only watched it 1000 times I don’t know why
You missed explaining turning the crank to ensure the valve that is being worked on is fully seated. I hope viewers understand that - otherwise bigger problems.
Yes, thank you. I don’t use a script or anything so things just flows as I do the work. But I’ll be more careful to make sure those very important details are not left out.
Great video! Thanks dude, I think I'm having this problem, 69k miles and it's very rough at cold start, sometimes it feels like the car will stall, and then it goes away 10-15sec later
Hawdee Tech you should do a leak down test cold. Spark pugs give a symptom like that too, you will need a scope to see the secondary or primary ignition wave forms so a leak down test is the easiest to rule out valve sealing. Good luck
Maic Salazar Diagnostics I've just had the piston rings and valve stem seals replaced. Just spoke to the guy who done it he said he walnut blasted it as well (it says that in the receipt) but I wasn't sure if he done the intake which he said he has. So not sure what the problem is
Thanks a lot. I will clean throttle body and manifold at my 207 RC thanks to this video. I hope the engine wont get fire :)
Back again I found your video again and I’m watching it again thanks again that’s a lot of again! Lol 😂
This was a chronic problem, especially with the 2007 Turbo engine redesign. Mini denied it for years and blamed everything they could down to the brand of fuel in use.
Love you videos thank you for your help as always!
Nice video and very detailed for training purpose! Very informative and clear! Thanks A lot 😊
Great Video! Thanks Man! Experiencing possibly same issue myself. Very informative Thanks!
well done, nice break down of the disassembly. Question though, why not use the media blaster?
The shop I work at that time didn’t have a media blaster.
Excellent video
Watching again! SMH thanks again!!!
Hi can this be avoided by using fuel addertive in UK its redex. Very informative thanks
As long as you use it since day one maybe it will help to prolong it, but cleaning will be need it no matter what. That is why now manufactures are using double injection systems now. One helps for emissions while vehicle is cold and two keeps intake pockets clean.
Thank you !
Thanks you for the video
Thank you, for such a detailed video! Were you able to access the PCV valve without removing the manifold?
Do you have to make sure the valves are closed when doing each valve? Thanks.
Dennis Canon yes that is super important or you will fill the cylinders with junk
What's the best way to make sure valves are closed
I love his videos
How do you make sure the valves are closed?
You put each cylinder on top dead center.
Excellent video. Thankyou
What is a typical cost for this service?
Does this need to be done to 2007 non turbo r56's too. I just bought one with 130k and I changed the spark plugs but it is still hard starting on cold start w/ rough idle for a few minutes. Check engine light is on as well too.... I'm thinking it's the fuel filter and/or carbon build up
Premium WHITEcracker no necessary. Your engine is regular fuel injectors. Check coils.
Thanks again!
What carbon cleaner did you use if you don’t mind me asking pls
I wish I would have seen you clean at least one of them because I don't see how you can get anything in there.
Michael Barber this one is hard to do. You have to choices: 1 - walnut with special adapters and very expensive. 2- using picks, small screw drivers, brake cleaner and gum cutter ( you’ll need to use a mirror to see since all pockets are in the back) also use a towel to cover the holes when blowing air to clean and inspect)
The second takes just a little longer.
Make sure that the Cyl you will work on it is at top dead center and that valves are closed, after all is clean, spin crank shaft to move valves to fully open and blow air thru the spark plugs so any little fluid or carbon gets out.
Hi , thanks for posting this !!! Would you recommend using an oil catch can ?
Pat Williams most definitely! That would extend the need of future clean up services.
Did you have to re position the crank to close the valve on each cylinder? or with the spark plug open do you blow through there to make sure it blows away from the piston?
Christopher Young you need to reposition the crankshaft to make sure valve are close
i have a similar problem but mine seem to be worse when hot, i just replaced all my coil 2 mths ago? My car is a manual, i feel a lost of power when i start off and also my RPMs jump up after i let off the gas?
nik peterson it will be important to diagnose it to see values at idle and at higher RPM with engine cold and warm.
I’m probably just gonna pay the 400$ and get it walnut blasted! Just to be safe. I noticed shops charge up to 800$ I found a place in Ventura for only 400$. Where are you located?
Roland David De Leon Tyson’s Corner Virginia
Definitely a great video! If I do attempt to do it, your video is the best one so far. Thanks
Where you located ? Do you offer this service ?
Thank you Sir!!!!!!
Great video. I'm having this problem. How much does it cost to have this done at a shop?
M Legarda 5 hours of labor
So far watched a lot of mini related videos on other channels as well and I can say that Maic here is one of the best mechanics among them.
I would really apprecite your advice on one thing that's bothering me for some time, misfire on cold startup on all cylinders but especially on cyl 2. I've changed spark plugs and coils and from diagnostics desired vs current HPFP pressures are pretty close. I also recorded cylinder 2 and 2 with borescope and there seems to be small pool of liquid on the piston, please take a look at my channel for short video.
Any advice on what it could be is welcome.
Thanks
It is a little hard to see and give you a full advice. But knowing these engines you most likely have carbon build up and that gives cold start misfires. The Cyl 2 looks like the injector might be leaking too. Do this test: Run the engine to fully warm and then turn it off and turn igntion back on while obvseriving the fuel rail pressure. Pressure has to go up, it stays or goes down then you have leaking injectors. Let me know what do you find with this test. The reason why the pressure has to go up, is beacause by you turning the ignition back on then the pump is close and now the rail has trapped fuel in it, that will boil. So if pressure goes down the only thing that can now leak are the injectors!!
@@MaicSalazarDiagnostics So if I understood correctly when engine is fully warm and turned on, turn it off and than turn the ignition on, meaning motor is not running? I did this and HPFP fuel pressure started dropping immediately as I turned the engine off. After I turned the ignition on as soon as possible high pressure fuel line dropped from 5MPa to 0.5MPa. Or did you mean I should watch for low pressure fuel line?
An update, I went through the tank of petrol with Liqui Moly fuel injector cleaner and result is lower RPM on cold start and less misfires so the CEL is not tripped anymore. I still can see logged issues with diagnostics but there is no check engine light.
Heya Maic, great video! Would carbon'd up valves / pistons cause a rich condition with carbon monoxide output steadily increasing with the engine kept at 2500 revs? We had our mini (2010 1.6 petrol with 60k miles) hooked up to an exhaust gas analyser.
gbdrbgdf vbfdsgfrds no, usually carbon on the intake pockets gives lean codes and cold misfires.
gbdrbgdf vbfdsgfrds I would check the MAF sensor
@@MaicSalazarDiagnostics I will thanks! There are no missfires. My local mechanic told me that they thought it was extremely likely that the timing of the engine is off. I bought the crankshaft / camshaft locking tools, they all went in perfectly; I rotated the crank four times and they fit in perfectly again so the timing is fine.
Great video Maic, where did I put that 10mm socket 😂😂 can never have enough 10 mils lol
LOL
This issue isn't fuel related. it's caused by the PCV value recirculating oil fumes from the valve cover back through the intake. Fuel treatments won't help. For the video poster, a 100% better solution is to walnut blast the intake valves. Picks and carb cleaner are NOT the way to go. That shit will drain into the cylinders when breaking all those deposits out.
If I needed that done how much would that cost me
Alberto Bartolome email me at maicsa2@live.com
Hi, what is the symptom ?
My mini is very hard to get started on the morning, once it starts run very good.
Ray Aratkon carbon build will give you misfires cold always. So your is something else.
Hi, Ray did you find how to solve that problem, I am having same problem.....Need to crank 3 to 5 times before the car start when motor is cold, once it starts run good also... Hpump I guess.....
@@pascalou1111 Hi,
The problem was high pressure f. Pump .
Thank for information
can i clean the coils with carbucleaner?
Can this cause a lean fault?
Edward garcia absolutely!!
Awesome. Thank you for the quick response! I’ve been chasing a lean 2BC0/p171 fault for weeks and have changed pretty much everything except the low pressure pump in tank and no vacuum leaks in the intake or exhaust. I’m gonna check and perform this service and let you know.
They are doing that by blasting the valves with walnut shells and a vacuum and a special adapter . Not so labor intensive.
hi, how many miles did the car had there?
Francisco Lafont around 74k miles
thank you, you cleaned it with paper and compresed air right?
Francisco Lafont no, I use a long thin screwdriver or a small pick, brake cleaner and shop air. The paper towel is only to cover while I am using the air so all the carbon and cleaner don't spray everywhere!
thank you very much!
Hey great Video man! Can I use a steel brush or steel wool with chemical cleaners and scrub it? Also how to you shut the valves completely?
Thanks again.
I just did this procedure and resulted in my car not starting. Any ideas?
Alfred Sanchez how bad was the carbon deposits? You make sure that the valves were close in each cylinder at the time for cleaning? Did you disconnect injectors and coils?
Maic Salazar Diagnostics The valves were pretty bad. Yes the valves were closed. After reassembling it all I found my battery was bad. I replaced the battery and now no start. Everything turns on, engine turns over, just no start.
Did you fix it?
Tnx
Without a boroscope you are really blind on this, toofar back and down to see. Mirrors? No way dudes! Renting it and a blaster would be a game changer.. anybody know if that's possible
nunca mostrate como limpiaste las válvulas !!!!!!!
Es en realidad muy simple, lo que uso es Gum cutter y lo dejo unos 5 minutos, despues uso un pic y un desatornillador pequeño para arrancar el carbon mas pegado. Esto lo repito varias veces hasta conseguir que queden bien limpias. La próxima ves voy a grabar todo el proceso.
muchas gracias me ayudaste mucho @@MaicSalazarDiagnostics
I was thinking use sea foam cleaner instead remove all those parts.
Cosme Z good luck with that!!
@@MaicSalazarDiagnostics do you think that works?
Its effectiveness is debatable, if you put it in the fuel it wont do anything since the fuel never touches those valves (it would probably help the injectors themselves a little) Itd have to go through a vacuum port with the car on, shut it off and let it sit then you gun it. However I heard that its inadvisable with turbo engines since a flake of carbon could get caught in the turbo and damage it. Just what I heard, I need to do more research because its definitely more accessible than walnut blasting twice a year.
I have not Walnut blast my car I’m sure everyone that see with tell I’m stupid! But I haven’t seen no very many people and they’re talking about Walnut cleaner Walnut blast whatever they still have a lot of carbon buildup now all I do is look at peoples cars and see a lot of carbon buildup on many cars and like a walking sniffing car dog for things that could possibly be wrong or smells wrong coolant white smell like smoke riders Browns smoke ext
just use seafoam intake and fuel
We're do you think all that carbon goes when you use seafoam. If you want to kill a turbo then yes is seafoam.
If you're spraying into the throttle body, how is the seafoam getting back into the turbo?
Use Techron. It’s the same crap they charge you 90$ for at the dealership to put in your tank. Only add ass directed by the bottle(I believe one full tank before your next oil change)
@@WH-xk5cs On the exhaust side
Is there any thing you can recommend that can help break up some of the carbon like a fuel treatment?
Get Off My Spaceship not really, remember that injectors are in the cylinder on these engines. So the best you can do is use good oils specific for European cars and no more than 5k miles.
CRC valve and Turbo cleaner $14