How to solder a LEAD-FREE ball valve | GOT2LEARN
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- Опубликовано: 3 май 2023
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FULL VIDEO: • How To Solder A LEAD-F...
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DISCLAIMER: Got2Learn is NOT responsible for any damage done to a property of which the plumbing wasn't done by a professional, I do not recommend doing your own plumbing if you are unsure about what you are doing, always hire a LICENSED contractor when doing any type of plumbing so you can be covered by insurances if something does happen, these videos are for entertainment purposes only!
I was taught to disassemble all valves before soldering. The ball valve is going to take longer to heat up, therefore should be heated first. Also keep your torch moving to prevent burning.
I think the most important lesson about soldering valves is always crack the valve open a bit. Obviously if the water is on to one side this doesn’t apply. If you don’t do this the air inside the ball will expand and pop the valve and it will never work again. I’ve heard some manufacturers say to close the valve but for many years I didn’t know this and have never had an issue as long as I cracked the valve open just enough to let that pressure escape. It seems like sweat valves are like gate valves. 1 in 10 are likely not to work. This is why I prefer threaded valves. They’re less likely to get damaged and if you do have to change it, you don’t have to worry about residual water and trying to sweat the old valve off. You can just screw it off and screw the new one on.
You're not gonna make enough pressure to damage the valve in the time it takes to solder it.
I've never seen a valve rated below 150psi. Most are 300, steam usually 600.
The problem is you risk the expanding air keeping the solder from sealing all around.
@@ObservationofLimits well I’ve put a torch on it, it then pops, and if you look at it there’s a spot where it’s blown out so I’m not sure what else would cause that. That’s how freeze breaks happen and that’s just pressure created from ice expanding down the pipe. So I disagree
@@joshcowart2446 ok clown.
Are you talking about the solder joint or the actual valve?
Because the valve seats are teflon. They get soft at about 600F. 200 degrees above even lead-free.
If you're damaging the actual seats you're doing something wrong. I've steam and pipe fitted in a foundry for over a decade.
Not sure what you're "popping". Unless it's the solder on a joint that's in a 3" gap between two closed valves. Then maybe you'd have enough air pressure to blow the liquid solder joint out.
@@joshcowart2446 and I guarantee you freeze breaks will burst the brass/copper/bronze before the teflon as well.
@@ObservationofLimits yes those sure of their positions have to resort to insults. I don’t know what fails first but you can visually see the Teflon or whatever it is ring in there burst out of round. Maybe it’s cheaper versions. I’m using mapp gas so it’s not like I’m trying to braize the thing. I’ve soldered for over 20 years so I know what I’m doing. I know if you close the valve it will pop if you don’t it won’t. You’re the wannabe me genius so you figure out why
Clean, flux, fit, wipe off excess flux, heat pipe, heat valve, apply solder the length of the diameter of the pipe.
One extra thing I do is be sure to clean and flux the face edge of the valve. It makes the solder seal the face, mounding up slightly like a brazed joint.
Good idea, will do.
You make excellent content, I have learned a ton about soldering pipe with your videos. I’ve added valves to all the sinks in my house and moved some plumbing in my bathroom(all copper), wouldn’t have been possible without your videos
I have seen many master plumbers never deburr the inside of the pipe. It's wrong but it never gets done.
Sadly 😔
Which is why I do everything myself 😢
Why must you debur the inside of the pipe?
@@johnnyrocket9372 Deburring reduces turbulence inside the lines. This turbulence can even cause pin hole leaks.
@@johnnyrocket9372 Full video on this subject: ruclips.net/video/WIIvGG6qNJM/видео.html&ab_channel=Got2Learn
Way to do it brother. I’ve seen many heat that brass too quick and without the copper getting quite hot enough which causes the solder not to adhere between the two which then causes a leak, I had to learn the hard way, long time ago, just couldn’t figure out why it would leak sometimes. I sure miss the 50/50 solder, it was like melting candle wax. Lol
Hey man your age is showing. 😂😂
That’s ok I miss 50/50 too. You can still get it. It’s just not legal on potable water. Boiler guys still use it.
@@Iwillnotbepushed lol, I know and those 50/50 joints, I would see them pull completely out when doing freeze repair.
i will add that the mechanical cleaning process is way more important on this type of joint vs copper/copper or copper/leaded brass. flux must be clean and the right chemistry as well
I realize this is for demonstration purposes but you also don’t need to keep dabbing the solder to the pipe once it’s made that penetration. If solder starts pooling or dripping at the bottom then you’ve got too much
No, hear the hub first in this case because it's a thick piece of brass and will take longer to heat up than the pipe.
Also when soldering brass you need to use tinning flux otherwise you will have corrosion down the road
No! Start on the pipe, so it is already up to temperature when the valve is hot enough.
Hot pipe draws solder, and adds heat to heavier valve body. Then you want only enough heat on the valve to melt and draw the solder.
WRONG! You don't know anything about soldering valves and your comment illustrates how ignorant and unable to learn you are. This guy does it right. Learn what thermal expansion and capillary action is. When you heat the pipe you're also heating the valve from the inside.
@@WhackBytch256 No!!!! I don’t have anything to add to this discussion, I just like saying no. 😂
Good video, with good concise information on the topic being presented.
My fear is cooking the insides
The insides are Teflon. Melts at 625F. Solder melts at about 350F (leaded), 420F (lead free).
If you manage to actually damage the seals without sweating in solder you have bigger problems.
I heated the heck out of one recently and it was fine
Wrap a wet rag around the valve helps.
Another tip is to use a pair of pliers or mole grips on the valve seat. It'll suck the heat away and prevent the nylon valve seat from melting.
good techniques to let the excess away from the seals" of the valve rigth- on bubba's 😅
Good solder skills and techniques
Use tinning flux and solder for lead free fitting
FYI deburring refers to the removing material from the outside of the pipe reaming refers to removal of material from inside the pipe
👍
That's why I love the universal, "chamfer it damnit"
You don’t ream with a pencil deburrer. Reaming is deburring the inside edge with a reamer. They are both deburring but only one is reaming. 😊
@@BullyBentley reaming is sizing a hole. Has nothing to do with edge burrs.
@@ObservationofLimits you’re thinking in machining terms. When it comes to pipe work, that conical tool he uses is also called a reamer.
This is the only vid on yootoob that shows how to do this in the correct way!👍👍
😇😇😇
Какая таки сложная схема монтажа сантехники в западных странах.
А герметизирует соединение тонкая перемычка припоя - лишь бы держала давление и особенно гидроудары.
The guy “just get it hot enough” 👍
I always clean my pipe before insertion..
My man 👌🤣
First valve i did myself in my basement, i absolutely roasted her guts lol. Wondered why there was still flow when i shut it off
I put a wey rag around de valve. I think this helps to keep it cooler
I guess you meant a "wet rag." Yes, i do the same thing when possible. I'm a little paranoid about soldering and melting the crap out of it.
Adding a rag is a double edged sword. It can remove the heat so the valve won’t get hot enough and you can end up cooking it from having to use the torch for an extended time. Personally I will never use a rag until after it’s soldered. The key is to get it done with the minimum heat exposure; get in and get out with the heat. I’ve only damaged 2 ball valves early in my career mainly by too much heat for too long dealing with residual water in the pipes
@@ecaparts unlikely. Also teflon is good to 500 easy, wouldn't go above 600F for any period of time
If you get the body of the valve that hot you got worse problems.
@@ObservationofLimits what is unlikely? A wet rag may sound like a great idea, but it’s actually not. You will take forever to heat the joint before solder will flow at the risk of damaging the valve. It’s better to control your heat by pulling your flame away as soon as solder melts, make sure to point the tip away from the valve body then cool the valve when your done. That’s my experience I’ve been doing this for years. Don’t like my suggestions? You do what works for you 👍🏻
@@ecaparts we're talking about a wet rag on the valve *body* not the joints.
It might suck some heat away. But if you're heating it at the joint and have the rag not on the joint it'll sweat just fine.
Also, using a rag *after* it's soldered is extra clown world because now you're shock cooling the joint and inducing stress cracks.
👍 Really love all your vids man. Keep’em coming. Can you do a video on different types of copper & PVC fittings. For instance, explaining the difference between a 90°, copper elbow and a 90° copper elbow Street fitting. Thank you!
🙏🙏🙏
@@Got2Learnso we keep valve open or closed?
@@Eastbaypisces depends on manufacturer!
@@Got2Learn everbilt, also what are the different types of flame tips ?
Why not just wrap the valve with a wet rag?
Also works!
I HAVE HAD TO SOLDER IN BALL VALVES THAT WERE 2.5 "...I WAS REALLY WORRIED ABOUT THE SEATS BUT IT TURNED OUT REALLY GOOD...
👍👍👍
The seats are Teflon. It melts at 620F.
If you got the seats that hot before the solder was running...
Even lead-free runs at 400ish.
Never put flame on a fitting.
Put it on pipe at edge of fitting. Heat expands and will heat the pipe first allowing pipe and fitting to reach proper temp without overheating the fitting
When the flame turns green read to go
What's the purpose of getting rid of the burr inside the pipe? It won't disturb if let inside.
They’re not nylon seats bub. They’re actually made of tephlon. Also, heat from the bottom and fill from the top. Removing your flame and continue to fill. This will cool the joint faster. …dry rag to finish
Nice solder joint!
Can you put a wet rag on the opposite side of the valve so that end doesn't over heat?
Injust use my drill with a sand paper bit for the inside tastes 2 secs.
👌
What is the shut the ball valve off too I’m pretty sure
If you melt the valve you burned all flux and I call it a burned up fitting no good
You’re definitely not supposed to heat the pipe first. The heat on the hub is the only thing that helps the solder properly suck into the fitting. If the pipe is too hot then the solder won’t flow properly
Brass takes longer to heat up so the pipe will get hot enough as a byproduct
I disagree.
Also have the valve open.
Nylon seats? I've only ever seen teflon.
Can you over ream with the pencil tool?
Kinda...
Just stop when you don't feel a lip inside anymore.
Niemals einen RohrSchneider beim weichlöten benutzen
The seals aren't Nylon, they are Teflon. Open the valve to 45 before soldering or the air trapped on either side of the ball will blow out the seals when it expands from heat.
It's not gonna blow the seals out. Those things are rated like 300 or 600 psig. Also the way the seats are, they're captured.
But yes, they're teflon and should be fine up to 500F no issue.
It'll possibly keep the solder from sealing if it's a small air chamber and you keep the joint too hot. But that's about it.
Careful there’s a know it all who knows everything there is to know and he says this isn’t a thing. The way you describe it I assume you’ve had it happened because that’s how I’d describe it but I guess we should believe internet dipshits over our own lying eyes
@Benjai On a new valve that's completely dry it's not so much an issue. It's definitely a good practice to have the valve in the half open position while removing old valves. If the valve is open or closed water will be completely trapped in that cavity and as the temperature raises the pressure gets pretty extreme while it turns to steam. It's happened a few times to me sounds like a gunshot.
Why deburr the inside? Just curious
To have proper water flow.
OPEN THE VALVE
Put a wet towel on top of a valve , whilst soldering, job done , you can tell is to much young generation teaching young generation 😂
Use Yorkshire fittings
They are shite 😂
Solder has no actual guarantee for timeline due to failed plumbers and failed copper it does not last as long as rubber (plastic) Google it metals break down and fail much sooner.
u have to flux both fitting and pipe bad splder
Ok but now do it with a New York accent
Montreal ;)
Pro tip... sweat a mip then use an ip ball valve
I did not see on video where you plucked the valve body. I assume you did, but I didn't see it. Good video
What do you mean by pluck?
What are you talking about; "Plucked"?
That's all good but leave the valve open, js
You have to stroke it a little softer at first and there's going to be a lot more reaming.
Piping 101
Sorry jadore tomber sur des vidéos random, et cest des Québécois qui parlent en anglais. I cannot not hear the accent
🙃
Those lead free valves are a b**** to soldier. Clean the s*** inside the fitting. Some people use tinning flux on those connections.
Yes tinning flux sure helps!
@@Got2Learn no need for the pros though
Fuck lead free ball valves use threaded ball valves it will save you a ton of man power trust me
I am so grateful that we don’t use this bs cowboy soldered ball valves in Australia, also soft solder went out of fashion,back when Noah played fullback for Jerusalem. Lol.
What do you guys use?
@@1AlexanderCole In the UK (where im from) pretty much all valves are compression. Ive been plumbing years and have seen a soldiered valve maybe once
@@olliesutton1804 soldered valves last forever done right.
@@ObservationofLimits Tbf I rarely get issues with compression ones, they are also easier to change
@@olliesutton1804 well, with all the fitting I do. If you mean internal ferrule + compression ring. Yes those are dope.
Basic compression ring fittings are garbage. I've had to fix so many. It's worth it to swap over to cone rings (where the ring only compresses on one side and has a thicker "butt" for the nut to press on. Less likely to cause leaks from cutting into the line.
My work history is in industrial maintenance. Water lines, refrigerant, oil, grease, etc.
I HATE compression fittings.
Soldering technique sucks , try teaching the right way if your intent is to teach .
🤔
The seats are usually Teflon.
Never solder like this guy. Always pre heat the pipe before the fitting.
That's literally what he did and instructed. 🤦🏽♂️
Tell me you didn't watch the video without telling me
@@ObservationofLimits sure did champ
Actually, "this guy" has more soldering skills than anyone I've ever seen in 45 years in the trades. Plus you just described the exact method shown in the film. What are you smoking over there?
@@Disturbentz suuuuuuuuuureeeee
This guy is ripping people off or he just using some random video and PS about it 😂
use pvc you animals
LOL you're going to get murdered in the comments. 😢
For what?
He didn't really say anything wrong except the nylon part.
@@ObservationofLimits his technique. He does it way different than people who've been in the trade for years.
@@askurmom1 eh he definitely sweat the shit out of that joint. But again, nothing verboten.
He didn't cook the flux, slap a cold wet rag on the joint, cook the joint.
Again the only real *issue* is that he said seals are nylon not teflon. And teflon melt waay higher than even lead-free.
I don't see anything worth "murdering" over.