Excellent video. I took mine apart today and noticed the vari drive pulley setup that I had no odea about. Mine was seized and I used a small hatchet as a wedge to nudge the center sheave and free it up, along with a liberal dose of PB Blaster. The pulley also has needle bearings in it that need attention. Interesting system for sure. This video explains how it works quite nicely. Thx.
One thing i cant get my brain around though without trial and error, and i cant afford that...ha is... Im trying to make a woods buggy right, so i went from a 3inch to a 7inch pulley on the engine, now how the heck do i figure out the Belt Size i Need...? I bought one 4 inches longer then the old one... but not even close, i even tried a 5 inch pulley and still Only went on Tight as heck... So does any1 know how many inches more you would go, if you were moving up 4 inches in pulley size.? Thx
thank you. you are the first person that said anything about the belt not wanting to let go. i have the problem of the mower still wanting to go forward or backward when i let off the clutch. i will try to move my engine back some because i did have it off to overhaul and it might be to far forward. the thing is driving me nuts and it dangers to mow with it cause you never know when it will hang up and keep going.
Thank you. Great video. Showed me just what my problem was with the mower running too slow. Got the variable speed pulley moving properly and off I went. Nice Job!! Thanks again.
Thanks! Love your videos. You have a good working knowledge and you explain things very clearly. I've found answers on many occasions thru your videos. You're a blessing to many! Thanks!
Dont know if anyone gives a damn but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can watch all of the new movies on InstaFlixxer. Been watching with my brother recently :)
Thank you that's help me very much on my mower and understand the bully and you give me a few other ideas how to keep tension on the new belts thank you
We have a 1993, changing that back belt is a hell of a job, make sure you have the exact belt length. On ours the damn idler pulley is so close to the big pulley there's no room to get the belt between the two.
Yeah, they are super picky to the belt size, a 1/2 inch longer or shorter and it won't work right. I use a long screwdriver/pry bar to move it over (best if someone is helping). and it works ok. Thanks for Watching!!!
I just got a new belt Thursday and changed it Friday with the help of my sister. It was still hard but not as bad as the first time we did it, works great.
I have a ranch king with 38" deck! Model 139-652f205/j169c! What LENGTH is the REAR belt? It shows the part# MTD 954-0370 which is 5/8"x48" which I bought! Now the (bad) belt that I took off says 5L-440 which is 9/16"x44"! Everybody(dealers) insist that it is 5/8"x48" which seems too long! What LENGTH is the rear belt supposed to be? I'm kinda new at this! Thank You!
Thank you for the video! I have two questions, how much force is needed to hold the variable pulley in position and how much is needed to move it? And the second question: how much fuel will that tractor run through when mowing in an hour?
Nice video, It's similar to scooters, mini bikes, etc. I love it, old Bridgeport milling machines use a similar system too. It's light duty, but, time tested good.
Thanks! yeah its used on alot of different things, also a more complex system is used on golf carts with a centrifugal clutch on it. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you for taking the tine to explain this! What is a variable speed belt? I see them in the shop sometimes and I don't know exactly what they are. I assume they can turn more tightly and bend tighter.
Nice vid. I got the exact same drive in mine. I noticed that when you are in neutral and you push the clutch/brake all the way down with the engine running, the front belt is not putting any pressure on the vari pully and the rear belt. On mine even with the clutch/brake all the way down, the front belt still puts tension on it, if you leave it too long the belt starts to smell of burning rubber as well. As you can imagine, switching is a pig as the tension on the rear pully makes it almost impossible to get in and out of gear with the foot on the brake. Do you know if you can adjust the slack in the front belt at all?
Thanks! I hear ya! Yeah the front belt acts like the clutch in this system, the rear belt has tension all the time. There should be a adjustment, if you get under it and follow the rod that goes from the clutch pedal, there should be a adjustment on that rod where it attaches to the variable pulley. Its kind of hard to get to with the deck on, but is doable. hope this makes sense. Thanks for Watching!!!
I have a yardman (model is yardman 135 685 662 E229H) and it is the same setup but the gearstick is warm out, it’s hard to move and sometimes doesn’t go into gear sometimes if u only move, is there anyway u could show on another video how the gears tick works?
Next time I work on one I will make a video, i do not have any on it at the moment, other then a transmission teardown and my reassembly but i don't know if i talked about that on it. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks! Anytime I have any problems with this type of belt system, first thing I try is new belts, if they are stretched or have chunks out it will make it not work right. If you can move the shifter through like 5-7 without pushing the clutch, i'd say its the belts. Thanks for Watching!!!
So it is the fixed tension on the front drive belt, combined with the pulley being moved forward or back, that forces the center disk to move in one or the other direction? And then the tension on the idler pulley on the rear drive belt that forces it back?? Is it ok to put grease on this pulley's shaft to ensure it moves easily? On my mower, they call it the "Speed Control Pulley". Pretty cool invention. Thanks
The front belt gets its tension from the middle pulley that moves, its the one that actually engages and disengages, the rear belt has constant tension on it. Thanks for Watching!!!
The centre pulley has needle bearings at both ends which run on a fixed spindle. These needle bearings are greased from new, and if you ever have the pulley off the mower they would appreciate washing out with petrol, dryin gout, and fresh grease being put in. Don't over-do the grease - you don't want it getting on the belts.
i bought a old lowes mtd without out engine or double pulley. how critical is the double pulley? The blade belt wont stop when i pull up on the deck height.do you think a longer belt may correct it? Im gonna try both varidrive belts since it would not go uphill. theres a ton of double pulleys but I have a briggs opposed twinn with a 1 inch shaft that i just guessed at its replacement i enjoy your videos keep them coming
I just replaced the drive belt with an OEM on my 2004 MTD Huskee and now I cannot stop the tractor in forward or reverse when I brake. I can't even take it out of gear to put in neutral. I have to shut the vehicle down to put in neutral. Is there any way to rectify this? Great video!!
Your welcome! It is a very reliable setup, there isn't to much that can go wrong, usually when they act up, 90% of the time is just needs new belts. I know right, this one i used in the video actually has the battery under the hood but other one i have (red) has it under the cover, but i made a bracket and mounted a regular size battery on the hitch, and extended the hitch so i can still use a trailer if i need to. thanks for watching!!!
Good job. Mlne is a 80 craftsman that has a horizontal eng. With a twist and redirection it does the same thing. M I'm mid pulley is locked up. Wish me luck
Is the variable speed pulley that moves forward to increase or decrease belt tension. When I put it in 1,2,3, not enough tension to move but if I put it in 7 it moves. The pulley itself is moving lesson 1,2,3, then when I put it in 7in moves back even more so it can grab
Your welcome! I hear ya! To save me alot of typing, go to page 14 of this manual and do the speed control adjustment section. If your belts are in good shape then this should take care of it, but if it needs new belts I would replace the m first and see what it does then do this. www.manualslib.com/manual/105784/Montgomery-Ward-Tmo-33934a.html?page=14#manual Hope this helps, thanks for watching!!!
re: ? [quote] if it needs new belts I would replace them first and [unquote] ... Nah - I'll just watch a PROFESSIONAL MOWER MECHANIC do the whole job with correct part numbers too.. Plus he made it into a comedy so I laughed a lot as well.. ruclips.net/video/n-ukW3UFs68/видео.html [quote] Published on 19 Jun 2016 In "Jr's Father Day Gift", Taryl shows you how to replace the drive belts on an MTD variable speed riding lawn mower. Prior to the fix, Junior gets Taryl a very special Father's Day gift that ends up stolen! Sit back, laugh, and ya just might learn something along the way. And There's Your Dinner!! [unquote]
@Kevin Mathewson2 Here's a special COMEDY CLIP made by a "professional MOWER mechanic" on his HOW TO brake adjustment video - that will show you exactly how to do exactly that - adjust the clutch/brakes ruclips.net/video/0GpAcsCaTFA/видео.html
great video and great knowledge reading your replies. I'm sure mine is a similar set up. It drove fine, but now after sitting a few months it seems to only run in 1st or 2nd gear. There is no further tension or movement from the belts etc if i move into 3/4/5/6. so its 1 speed regardless of what gear you are in. If i pull back on the clutch i get a little more but not alot. im not sure if its the variable pully not sliding or the drive belt slipping. the belt is hot after running so i think its that, but the idle pully seems to be sitting on the belt and tensioning it. Any ideas?! thanks in advance.
Thanks, appreciate that! I've had that happen before, the variable pulley is probably rusted up, take the belts off and spray it down with pb blaster or wd40 and try to work it back and forth, you should be able to move it up and down by hand with the belts off, then wipe off any excess oil and it should be fine, it might slip until the oil wears off. That won't usually cause it to heat up though, make sure that the idler is turning freely it might be trying to seize up. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 thanks for getting back to me 👍 i took the belts off and there is free movement on the speed pully centre disc. if i pull the clutch back it does engage and speed up. could it just be the drive belt has stretched or the clutch return spring has lost its tension? everything seems to work OK apart from the clutch seating all the way back. sorry to keep bothering!!!
Your welcome! Alright, you may be right, it could be either of what you mentioned, as far as the spring goes, it should take a good amount of force to push the clutch, especially with the belts off, if its real easy it could be the spring, never had one go out on any of mine though. It might just be the belts, its a very picky system when the belts start wearing out, they can look perfectly fine and still not want to work. Its no problem, anytime!
So when I'm pulling wood with my tractor in low if I pull the variable gear stick towards me. It's slows the tractor down but if I push the stick forward it speeds up. When I'm towing heavy where should the variable stick be if I need all the power I can get ?
I have an old 95(I think) Yard Machine, & a new belt only works a short while, until it's back to slipping, again. To climb even a small hill, I have to put it in low range, then shift up & down, until it finally catches hold. Lawn mower shop said some of those mowers are picky, & only an oem belt will work, because of the specific shape & precise measurements. Not to mention the pain it is to change it. Or, would it be a worn out pulley? Thanks!
I would check the pulleys first, but I have seen some that prefer the MTD belts, usually on the blade/deck belt, but it just depends. You may be able to adjust the clutch some, depending on the setup on it, they are all different. Thanks for Watching!!!
Very instructive! Can you describe the right way to adjust the two threaded connecting rods, one to the clutch/brake pedal and the other for the hydro speed lever? They seem to lengthen or shorten the drive arm to engage the hydro or change speed which means there must be an optimum adjustment to avoid partial engagement to suboptimal speed? Also, my hydrostatic shift moves easily enough to speed up, but is a real fight to push to lower the hydro lever back down to slow the speed so I can mow in tight areas. I suspect the varidrive pulley needs emery cloth and lube as well as adjusting the rods to avoid the condition you said was like "riding the clutch"?
Thanks. T8 be honest it varies a lot per different mpdela. I've never seen a hydrostatic with the variable speed system, its usually q single belt. I would have to actually see it to know how to adjust, if you still have the book on it, it should say how 5o adjust it. Wish I could help more! Thanks for watching!
You are right, no hydro; my manual mentioned both, but is was a different model I didn't understand it well enough until your question led me to learn the difference. It is either a tranny with 1 speed using the varidrive pulley system to change speed, or it is a hydrostatic, but no such thing as a combination of the two. First question, at 4:40 in the video, with the shifter in the first slot and clutch out, it isn't moving. The clutch pedal is held back likening it to riding a clutch, which I am guessing to mean that there is not enough tension to engage the belt so it is just rubbing on the pulley. So how is that fixed? There is a linkage rod that can be adjusted making it longer or shorter, but what indicators do you look for that tell you when it is adjusted optimally? Second question, my MTD sat for 8 years. The speed lever goes from slow to fast speed ok, but going back from fast down to slow takes a ton of arm strength. I am guessing this is not normal and that probably the varidrive pulley needs sanding and lubrication. Any guidance on this would be nice to include any tricks to unhook the large spring connected to the varidrive pulley pivot mount .
@@johnbassett463 Yep, one or the other. Usually when they don't want to engage in the 1st speed its do to worn/stretched belts, it seems like 90% of the time when this system acts up its do to worn/stretched belts. Seems odd. Some mower will work fine until the belt starts getting chunks or even breaks, but others start acting up before the belt wears out. Make sure to press the clutch when going from fast to slow, because if not, the clutch will actually move with the lever, making it hard to move. But it could be that the linkages just need oiled up (wd40 or pb) try not to get any on the belts. My suggestion, but its no guarantee is to remove both belts, oil everything good (and on the pulley that changes sizes, if the center disc doesn't move free try a drop of oil on it, but get excess off before you put the belts on). then put new belts on, mtd brand is recommended on that. Then after you do all of this if it still acts up then move on to adjusting the clutch. Its a last resort. Now if you have it neutral and put it in the 1st speed and the belts move then, check your brake disc it could be rusted up as well. Just throwing things out there, I try to avoid adjusting the clutch, it can be tricky and easy to make it worse!
Thank you for your video fnaguitarplayer9, I have a question: I have a Troy bilt pony (2011), I can only control the speed with the throttle lever, even when I put it in rabbit mode the motor goes at high rpm, but the ground speed is about half the normal speed; the yellow speed control lever doesn’t work, it goes up and down without locking the notches, offers no resistance and does nothing. (however, the engaging of the parking brake action works fine). I opened up the mower and saw the yellow speed control lever attached to a connecting rod which is attached down there to the cupped metal piece in the correct position as the new Troy Bilt Pony I saw yesterday at Home Depot, but besides allowing to be put in in park position, I don’t see it attached to anything else, is it right? How does it regulate the speed if it is not connected to anything else? Thank you in advance.
I’m not sure where your lever is. Mine is an MTD and the lever is on the front panel. The way the lever works will probably be the same but the linkages might be a bit different. The lever limits how far up the brake pedal goes. So if you select half speed (let’s say 3) the brake pedal will only come half way up. When the brake pedal is right down there should be pressure on the lever. When you hold the brake pedal down the pressure comes off the lever and you select the speed. When you release the brake pedal it will come up to the height you selected and the pressure should come onto the lever again. On mine the lever has a loose linkage to a bar . The brake pedal is also connected to this bar on the other side of the mower. The bar has a linkage that moves the variable pulley. Higher speeds on the lever allow the pulley to move further back but it doesn’t actually move anything until the brake pedal is released. There should be a spring on the variable pulley and that’s what pulls it back when the brake pedal is released. You should feel the pressure of this spring when you press the brake pedal.
On this design you usually have to bend or remove 2 bolt-belt guards on the engine pulley and remove a few of the linkages, its a pain but there is no way around it. Thanks for Watching!!!
Fna, is it fair to say that when troubleshooting this Vari-drive system, pulling mower blade deck off would create access to see what's wrong, or change belts ?
It would help some, especially if it doesn't have the center cover like this one has. Usually the belts are the problem most of the time. Thanks for Watching!!!
I'm having a problem with a LT2000 Craftsman that has a similar VSBS. The mower does not want to stop when you let off on the accelerator pedal. Does the idler system stop the belt when the pedal is released to stop the mower? This is where I think my issue is.
It could be out of adjustment or the front belt may have slipped off a idler pulley that is in between the pulley that changes sizes and the engine, some have it some don't but i had that happen once. Thanks for Watching!!!
They will sometimes seize up and you can usually free them up, take the belts off and remove the pulley to get to it easier, the center part should slide really easily. hope this helps. Thanks for Watching!!!
What can I check for on a slow moving 07 Murray I got new belts and when I put the small belt on the transmission and idler pulley in the back it eventually moved slower .
So if I put my hydro drive on the fastest setting but the tractor still goes the same speed as it did on the slowest setting...it would mean possibly my belt is too worn? i would think if the pulley was frozen I wouldnt be able to move the speed selecter? I have a drive like this on my Craftsman 15" wood lathe. but the one on my Simplicity 3012 tractor doesnt seem to be working as it doesnt go any faster.
I would try the belts first, but while its off make sure you can move the center pulley's center piece, if not then its stuck. Yes, you can still move the shifter even if it is frozen. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 thanks. I also noticed that the Smaller of the two pulleys seems to be messed up. one of the sides seems to be loose and sort of jingling around like its loose or worn.I guess ill have to take off the belt and check out the pulley. they other pulley seem to be working fine with the belt moving up and down when I move the speed control lever.
It’s the best system and the tuffest Why stop using it, to sale you the junk that breaks down and costs hundreds more to mow the grass 😢 It’s a fact this is the best thing for service and 30 years of service
Hey man! I know this isn't relevant to your video but I got 2 hss strats I'm fixing to wire up one has one tone the other two and I'm putting a push/pull on each vol, both have 5 way switches and I'm jus wondering if you have any suggestions about how you might wire them up, maybe so they have the most versatility, and not so much alike. Thanks man! I really like your vids! You seem like a cool dude :) thank again
I would probably wire the push pulls so that it splits the humbucker when pulled to the inside coil, that way you would have a thick humbucker sound as well as a more standard strat sound, the outside coil is just way to thin for by itself. My favorite mod on strats (i don't have a HSS setup though, but it would work just the same) is to wire it so you can have the bridge and neck pickups on together to get that middle sound like a telecaster has, which does sound really good with a HB in the bridge, i have a squier 51 too and it sounds amazing! And the push/pull on it splits the bridge hb to the inside coil, which almost sounds like a strat pickup. hope this helps! Thanks for Watching!!!
Trying to figure out the adjustment on the speed selector arm. It has 2 slotted areas for adjustment. I think one is for the break.... cant find instructions on setting them. Wish me luck
@@fnaguitarplayer9 guess this is one of those times. Had to remove to clean everything. Bought it used. Opp twin operates 90deg to the trans. Belts change direction. A lot going on. Their are 2- two inch adjustments. Clutch, break, and "Vanguard Drive". Thanks though.
HI I have a simplicity mower with a variable speed clutch when cold the mower does not move on incline when hot it works better but still hesitates on incline is it a belt problem or pulley problem?
I would try new belts first, but when you have the belts off check center part of the pulley that changes size, the disc should slide easily. Thanks for watching
I was wondering if anybody reading who has one of these "7 speed shift on the go" MTD models with this 2 belt CVT system can say: How well is it holding up ? Does it tolerate moderate towing ? How frequent are belt changes needed ? Can you compare to Hydrostatic or other CVT lawn tractor Transmission systems? Thanks a ton for any input. I'm deciding which tractor & drive system to buy now.
Thats what this is, a MTD 7 "speed", it will haul a good load, but will slip easily especially going up a hill with a load on it, its a good simple system and for general use is perfect. i'm not a big fan of hydrostatics, except on zero turns, they will do good but can overheat and cause damage to them. I like the old one belt mowers, one big belt from the engine to the trans, and actual gears in the transmission, they seem to take more abuse then anything really. But I don't think anyone is making that anymore, hydro's are slowly taking over. Thanks for Watching!!!
I know this is a two year old question but for anyone else : I have a 1987 mtd with cvt that's gotten hard use the last 25 years...changed belts maybe 3 times, spindles once, blades maybe once. Towing would put extra strain on the axle input pulley and shaft, and therefore the bearing there and the housing, seems to me. Replaced the motor in 2013. I don't want hydrostatic because of possible oil seal leakage on my beautiful grass, lol.
hey im just wondering; if i swap the engine drive pulley on one of these varidrive mowers from 3.5" to 4.5" will my output speed increase? I tried putting a smaller pulley on the transaxle before but the speed stayed the same and i tried multiple pulleys but nothing happened. Knowing that it doesnt change the output speed from the rear pulley, will it increase the speed from the front pulley? I just dont want to go to Tractor Supply and pay $20 for bigger engine drive pulley and it do nothing just like what happened with the rear pulley.
Craftsman 1963 it will speed it up with a bigger pulley on the engine. This system will limit what you can get out of it. Most lawn mower racers build them with either a single belt setup with the clutch working a idler pulley or with a centrifugal clutch. The small pulley you put on the back probably didn't have enough belt tension to make it work right. Thanks for watching!!!
I have that same set up but my mower only moves in low speed. I can move the shifter 1-7 but it does change the speed... still creeping along. What can I check for that?
Is the pedal moving back as it "accelerates" if not, check the spring on the variable speed pulley / clutch, and try to gently pull back on the clutch pedal and see if it speeds up. Usually on mine when i start having problems with them, its time for new belts. They might still look good but they can be stretched just a little bit and cause problems. Thanks for Watching!!!
The center pulley may be sticking, the one that changes sizes, i have seen them not change and make the system not work. Also if your using aftermarket belts, they won't work right with it, almost have to have oem belts for these. Thanks for Watching!
I put oem belts on checked the center of the pulley moving up and down fine watched it move like on your video and change sizes spins good moves great in 3-7 will move if not under a strain in 1-2 once it starts up hill no go. I'm sure it wouldn't pull a cart can put it in6-7 get started ride the brake like a clutch on a car to go slower then let out to go on any suggestions would be appreciated going to try changing the pulley and bearing anyway.
maybe you can help me . iam new to this setup mine is a statesman but if its in park and the clutch is all the way pressed it it still moves if your in forward or reverse any idea how to fix it btw its gotta 12.5 hp briggs on it from a craftsman i dont know if that makes a difference or not
There is a adjustment procedure but most of the time when they do that either one of the belts is put on wrong (on wrong side of idler pulley or is on the outside of a belt guard causing to much tension) or they need to be replaced. This system is very reliable but can be picky when the belts get worn. I'd check the pulleys and belt guards first, it might be something simple like that. I have a manual for montgomery ward lawn mowers but i don't think the adjustment is the same. Thanks for Watching!!!
it will work on the belts alot, and i've tried pulling a big load on this mower going up a big hill and had to pull the clutch back to keep the belts from slipping, its a good design but not meant for hauling. I'd say the worst that will happen is it that the belts will slip. But alot of people have done it and they seem to work though. Thanks for Watching!!!
There is a rod on the clutch pedal, but most of the time if there is any issue on this setup its do to worn belts or the middle pulley is sticking. Thanks for Watching!!!
First thing i would check is, make sure the belt/clutch is disengaging completely, with the cover off see if the pulleys stop spinning with the clutch in, if not the clutch needs adjusted or has wrong belt on it, if it is stopping, then it may be in the transmission, either in the shifter fork detents or the gears. hope this helps, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks so much! You made it very understanding. I will subscribe. If you could do the hydrostatic will be good too. I have both. Have a blessed day may you be successful and your video are educational!
The pulley that changes sizes could be sticking or hanging up, may want to lightly oil it, to much oil and it will get on the belts. Thanks for Watching!!!
My tractor has the same setup do u have any clue to why it will only move in speed 3 it will go a little faster if I pull back on the clutch with my hand I have looked everywhere and I have no info please HELP!!!!!
I would suggest to change the belts first before you do anything else, even if the belts look like they are good they could be stretched some. This mower acted up like that and new belts fixed it. Try that first, then we'll go from there. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 I have the same problem (going only on 5 and 6th gear), replaced the best and still the same. Can not go up hill - the new belt slips (same like the old one did), and smoke comes out from the front, engine shaft pulley. Help please!
@@laserfalcon If you just put new belts on it, sometimes they will do that until they seat in/stretch, then it will stop, or a few times i've missed a idler pulley on the front belt (not all will have it) and it binded up putting more tension and it did that. You can adjust the clutch on these and if its none of that then thats what it will need. I've never had to adjust one, brakes yes, but never the clutch itself.
I'm not a very big fan on variable speed I like the way that they used to build the old riding mowers with the transaxle as far as I'm concerned the transaxle was a much better system than this variable speed to me the variable speeds where is your belts out too fast
I'm not sure right off hand what they are referring to, i know on one of my montgomery wards mowers (that doesn't have this setup, it has a basic belt clutch on it) it has a knob you press to release the parking brake, but it doesn't have the varia drive, so i'm not sure what that button would be right off hand. Wish i could help more! Thanks for Watching!!!
Good video but please do not compare the belt/pulley system to a torque converter. It relates more closely to a centrifugal clutch in that you either have belt friction causing drive or you do not due to the rising pedal allowing belt contact; but has no relationship in any way to a torque converter with impeller; propeller and stater increasing drive from stationary and transmitting drive through those components via transmission oil.
Thanks, I was referring to a golf cart / go cart style torque converter not a vehicle torque converter! The type i'm talking about has 2 pulleys that change sizes. Thanks for Watching!!!
Excellent video. I took mine apart today and noticed the vari drive pulley setup that I had no odea about. Mine was seized and I used a small hatchet as a wedge to nudge the center sheave and free it up, along with a liberal dose of PB Blaster. The pulley also has needle bearings in it that need attention. Interesting system for sure. This video explains how it works quite nicely. Thx.
Thanks! It is a interesting and pretty reliable system too, never had any major problems with them, except the belts. Thanks for Watching!!!
I really appreciate the fact that you pointed out the friction between pulleys as an indication of worn belts.
Your welcome. When they start wearing or stretching the spring loaded idler pulley will max out and do all it can. Thanks for Watching!!!
excellent description/demonstration of how that system works!
These old systems sure beats the hydro junk on the new mower plus they cost 1000 to 1800 to fix
I love this system
One thing i cant get my brain around though without trial and error, and i cant afford that...ha is... Im trying to make a woods buggy right, so i went from a 3inch to a 7inch pulley on the engine, now how the heck do i figure out the Belt Size i Need...? I bought one 4 inches longer then the old one... but not even close, i even tried a 5 inch pulley and still Only went on Tight as heck... So does any1 know how many inches more you would go, if you were moving up 4 inches in pulley size.? Thx
Cut a old belt and measure it
Explained at best, thanks, visual are excellent
thank you. you are the first person that said anything about the belt not wanting to let go. i have the problem of the mower still wanting to go forward or backward when i let off the clutch. i will try to move my engine back some because i did have it off to overhaul and it might be to far forward. the thing is driving me nuts and it dangers to mow with it cause you never know when it will hang up and keep going.
Mine does the same thing I can’t figure it out the engine mount holes don’t have adjustable
Thank you. Great video. Showed me just what my problem was with the mower running too slow. Got the variable speed pulley moving properly and off I went. Nice Job!! Thanks again.
Your welcome, appreciate that! Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 mine won't slow Down or stop unless I put it into neutral.
@@Executnrsame mine is to tight
I really enjoy listening to your educational videos on Lawn mowers!! Thank you !! I completely understand what your are saying and doing
It’s the best and cheapest to operate period and the new style system will cost you dearly
Thanks! Love your videos. You have a good working knowledge and you explain things very clearly. I've found answers on many occasions thru your videos. You're a blessing to many! Thanks!
Your welcome! Appreciate that, always glad to help out! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks for the video. it really helped me out a lot. best one I've seen yet explaining how this system works. thanks again.
Your welcome, appreciate that! Thanks for Watching!!!
Dont know if anyone gives a damn but if you're bored like me during the covid times then you can watch all of the new movies on InstaFlixxer. Been watching with my brother recently :)
@Emory Parker definitely, I've been watching on InstaFlixxer for years myself :D
Thanks buddy. Now I know whats wrong with the old Silver Bullet.
I could not for the life of me figure out how speeds changed.
Great video.
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you that's help me very much on my mower and understand the bully and you give me a few other ideas how to keep tension on the new belts thank you
We have a 1993, changing that back belt is a hell of a job, make sure you have the exact belt length. On ours the damn idler pulley is so close to the big pulley there's no room to get the belt between the two.
Yeah, they are super picky to the belt size, a 1/2 inch longer or shorter and it won't work right. I use a long screwdriver/pry bar to move it over (best if someone is helping). and it works ok. Thanks for Watching!!!
I just got a new belt Thursday and changed it Friday with the help of my sister. It was still hard but not as bad as the first time we did it, works great.
I hear ya! It is hard to do, especially by yourself.
I have a ranch king with 38" deck! Model 139-652f205/j169c! What LENGTH is the REAR belt? It shows the part# MTD 954-0370 which is 5/8"x48" which I bought! Now the (bad) belt that I took off says 5L-440 which is 9/16"x44"! Everybody(dealers) insist that it is 5/8"x48" which seems too long! What LENGTH is the rear belt supposed to be? I'm kinda new at this! Thank You!
on tewarehouse.com they show it anywhere between 47.5 and 49, so i'm not sure what is going on with that!!!
Thank you for the video! I have two questions, how much force is needed to hold the variable pulley in position and how much is needed to move it? And the second question: how much fuel will that tractor run through when mowing in an hour?
That's 3 questions, I can only answer the last one, how big is your tank?
Nice video, It's similar to scooters, mini bikes, etc. I love it, old Bridgeport milling machines use a similar system too. It's light duty, but, time tested good.
Thanks! yeah its used on alot of different things, also a more complex system is used on golf carts with a centrifugal clutch on it. Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you for taking the tine to explain this! What is a variable speed belt? I see them in the shop sometimes and I don't know exactly what they are. I assume they can turn more tightly and bend tighter.
Thank you and God bless you all.
thanks mate. very simple and to the point.
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!
Nice vid. I got the exact same drive in mine. I noticed that when you are in neutral and you push the clutch/brake all the way down with the engine running, the front belt is not putting any pressure on the vari pully and the rear belt. On mine even with the clutch/brake all the way down, the front belt still puts tension on it, if you leave it too long the belt starts to smell of burning rubber as well. As you can imagine, switching is a pig as the tension on the rear pully makes it almost impossible to get in and out of gear with the foot on the brake. Do you know if you can adjust the slack in the front belt at all?
Thanks! I hear ya! Yeah the front belt acts like the clutch in this system, the rear belt has tension all the time. There should be a adjustment, if you get under it and follow the rod that goes from the clutch pedal, there should be a adjustment on that rod where it attaches to the variable pulley. Its kind of hard to get to with the deck on, but is doable. hope this makes sense. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9mine has that same issue I’ve tried my adjustments and no go still keeps spinning both belts
Great video helped me understand my own issue in a round about kinda way. Great content and we'll made without the bull other videos have. Thanks
Glad to help out! Appreciate that very much, Thanks for Watching!!!
Great video, straight to the point. Thanks!
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Very clear explanation. thanks! mine is direct drive but im thinking of building a cvt like this myself.
Your welcome, I hear ya! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank You! The best explanation on RUclips!
I have a yardman (model is yardman 135 685 662 E229H) and it is the same setup but the gearstick is warm out, it’s hard to move and sometimes doesn’t go into gear sometimes if u only move, is there anyway u could show on another video how the gears tick works?
Next time I work on one I will make a video, i do not have any on it at the moment, other then a transmission teardown and my reassembly but i don't know if i talked about that on it. Thanks for Watching!!!
Perfect vid. Thanks man
Great video! Just got me a Craftsman GTV18,...trying to figure out why it moves so slow,...I think the belts are tired.
Thanks! Anytime I have any problems with this type of belt system, first thing I try is new belts, if they are stretched or have chunks out it will make it not work right. If you can move the shifter through like 5-7 without pushing the clutch, i'd say its the belts. Thanks for Watching!!!
Did you find your prob. Had to rebuild my GTV16 but having issues with adjustments, looking for a book
So it is the fixed tension on the front drive belt, combined with the pulley being moved forward or back, that forces the center disk to move in one or the other direction? And then the tension on the idler pulley on the rear drive belt that forces it back??
Is it ok to put grease on this pulley's shaft to ensure it moves easily?
On my mower, they call it the "Speed Control Pulley".
Pretty cool invention.
Thanks
The front belt gets its tension from the middle pulley that moves, its the one that actually engages and disengages, the rear belt has constant tension on it. Thanks for Watching!!!
The centre pulley has needle bearings at both ends which run on a fixed spindle. These needle bearings are greased from new, and if you ever have the pulley off the mower they would appreciate washing out with petrol, dryin gout, and fresh grease being put in. Don't over-do the grease - you don't want it getting on the belts.
I see the problem with my mower now, thank you!
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
i bought a old lowes mtd without out engine or double pulley. how critical is the double pulley? The blade belt wont stop when i pull up on the deck height.do you think a longer belt may correct it? Im gonna try both varidrive belts since it would not go uphill. theres a ton of double pulleys but I have a briggs opposed twinn with a 1 inch shaft that i just guessed at its replacement i enjoy your videos keep them coming
I just replaced the drive belt with an OEM on my 2004 MTD Huskee and now I cannot stop the tractor in forward or reverse when I brake. I can't even take it out of gear to put in neutral. I have to shut the vehicle down to put in neutral. Is there any way to rectify this? Great video!!
Thanks for the video you have helped a lot
thanks for this clip, very helpful, have older MTD,, slow speed now I know, sucks they use a motorcycle battery
Your welcome! It is a very reliable setup, there isn't to much that can go wrong, usually when they act up, 90% of the time is just needs new belts. I know right, this one i used in the video actually has the battery under the hood but other one i have (red) has it under the cover, but i made a bracket and mounted a regular size battery on the hitch, and extended the hitch so i can still use a trailer if i need to. thanks for watching!!!
Good job. Mlne is a 80 craftsman that has a horizontal eng. With a twist and redirection it does the same thing. M I'm mid pulley is locked up. Wish me luck
I've seen those setup like that before! Thanks for Watching!!!
Thank you! Exactly what I needed explained. 👍
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Is the variable speed pulley that moves forward to increase or decrease belt tension. When I put it in 1,2,3, not enough tension to move but if I put it in 7 it moves. The pulley itself is moving lesson 1,2,3, then when I put it in 7in moves back even more so it can grab
does that variable pulley have a bearing in it? my front drive belt smokes when I engage the transmission.
Troy built
I have forward and reverse just fine.
It's like in first gear, the slowest.
How do I get it to go faster, like 3 or 4 speed?
Thanks! That ain't my mower but the explanation was great.
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!
Btent
Thanks for the video! I have the same tractor. My tractor doesn't stop completely. How can I adjust the clutch to stop it?
Your welcome! I hear ya! To save me alot of typing, go to page 14 of this manual and do the speed control adjustment section. If your belts are in good shape then this should take care of it, but if it needs new belts I would replace the m first and see what it does then do this. www.manualslib.com/manual/105784/Montgomery-Ward-Tmo-33934a.html?page=14#manual
Hope this helps, thanks for watching!!!
re: ? [quote] if it needs new belts I would replace them first and [unquote] ...
Nah - I'll just watch a PROFESSIONAL MOWER MECHANIC do the whole job with correct part numbers too..
Plus he made it into a comedy so I laughed a lot as well..
ruclips.net/video/n-ukW3UFs68/видео.html
[quote]
Published on 19 Jun 2016
In "Jr's Father Day Gift", Taryl shows you how to replace the drive belts on an MTD variable speed riding lawn mower. Prior to the fix, Junior gets Taryl a very special Father's Day gift that ends up stolen! Sit back, laugh, and ya just might learn something along the way. And There's Your Dinner!!
[unquote]
@Kevin Mathewson2
Here's a special COMEDY CLIP made by a "professional MOWER mechanic" on his HOW TO brake adjustment video - that will show you exactly how to do exactly that - adjust the clutch/brakes
ruclips.net/video/0GpAcsCaTFA/видео.html
Can you show a video on replacing the drive belt on this tractor?
great video and great knowledge reading your replies. I'm sure mine is a similar set up. It drove fine, but now after sitting a few months it seems to only run in 1st or 2nd gear. There is no further tension or movement from the belts etc if i move into 3/4/5/6. so its 1 speed regardless of what gear you are in. If i pull back on the clutch i get a little more but not alot. im not sure if its the variable pully not sliding or the drive belt slipping. the belt is hot after running so i think its that, but the idle pully seems to be sitting on the belt and tensioning it. Any ideas?! thanks in advance.
Thanks, appreciate that! I've had that happen before, the variable pulley is probably rusted up, take the belts off and spray it down with pb blaster or wd40 and try to work it back and forth, you should be able to move it up and down by hand with the belts off, then wipe off any excess oil and it should be fine, it might slip until the oil wears off. That won't usually cause it to heat up though, make sure that the idler is turning freely it might be trying to seize up. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 thanks for getting back to me 👍 i took the belts off and there is free movement on the speed pully centre disc. if i pull the clutch back it does engage and speed up. could it just be the drive belt has stretched or the clutch return spring has lost its tension? everything seems to work OK apart from the clutch seating all the way back. sorry to keep bothering!!!
Your welcome! Alright, you may be right, it could be either of what you mentioned, as far as the spring goes, it should take a good amount of force to push the clutch, especially with the belts off, if its real easy it could be the spring, never had one go out on any of mine though. It might just be the belts, its a very picky system when the belts start wearing out, they can look perfectly fine and still not want to work. Its no problem, anytime!
Great video! Thank you very much.
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
So when I'm pulling wood with my tractor in low if I pull the variable gear stick towards me. It's slows the tractor down but if I push the stick forward it speeds up. When I'm towing heavy where should the variable stick be if I need all the power I can get ?
I have an old 95(I think) Yard Machine, & a new belt only works a short while, until it's back to slipping, again. To climb even a small hill, I have to put it in low range, then shift up & down, until it finally catches hold. Lawn mower shop said some of those mowers are picky, & only an oem belt will work, because of the specific shape & precise measurements. Not to mention the pain it is to change it. Or, would it be a worn out pulley? Thanks!
I would check the pulleys first, but I have seen some that prefer the MTD belts, usually on the blade/deck belt, but it just depends. You may be able to adjust the clutch some, depending on the setup on it, they are all different. Thanks for Watching!!!
Great video, thank you very much....
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Thanks brother good video 😎
I just got a troy pony 7 speed from my neighbor. It runs very slowly and has 1 speed. Do u think its the drive belt? thx
How does the shift lever awrk? Can it be by put on backward?
Good video 👍
Great vid - thanks!
How does the clutch system work on this machine?
Very instructive!
Can you describe the right way to adjust the two threaded connecting rods, one to the clutch/brake pedal and the other for the hydro speed lever? They seem to lengthen or shorten the drive arm to engage the hydro or change speed which means there must be an optimum adjustment to avoid partial engagement to suboptimal speed?
Also, my hydrostatic shift moves easily enough to speed up, but is a real fight to push to lower the hydro lever back down to slow the speed so I can mow in tight areas. I suspect the varidrive pulley needs emery cloth and lube as well as adjusting the rods to avoid the condition you said was like "riding the clutch"?
Thanks. T8 be honest it varies a lot per different mpdela. I've never seen a hydrostatic with the variable speed system, its usually q single belt. I would have to actually see it to know how to adjust, if you still have the book on it, it should say how 5o adjust it. Wish I could help more! Thanks for watching!
You are right, no hydro; my manual mentioned both, but is was a different model I didn't understand it well enough until your question led me to learn the difference. It is either a tranny with 1 speed using the varidrive pulley system to change speed, or it is a hydrostatic, but no such thing as a combination of the two. First question, at 4:40 in the video, with the shifter in the first slot and clutch out, it isn't moving. The clutch pedal is held back likening it to riding a clutch, which I am guessing to mean that there is not enough tension to engage the belt so it is just rubbing on the pulley. So how is that fixed? There is a linkage rod that can be adjusted making it longer or shorter, but what indicators do you look for that tell you when it is adjusted optimally? Second question, my MTD sat for 8 years. The speed lever goes from slow to fast speed ok, but going back from fast down to slow takes a ton of arm strength. I am guessing this is not normal and that probably the varidrive pulley needs sanding and lubrication. Any guidance on this would be nice to include any tricks to unhook the large spring connected to the varidrive pulley pivot mount .
@@johnbassett463 Yep, one or the other. Usually when they don't want to engage in the 1st speed its do to worn/stretched belts, it seems like 90% of the time when this system acts up its do to worn/stretched belts. Seems odd. Some mower will work fine until the belt starts getting chunks or even breaks, but others start acting up before the belt wears out. Make sure to press the clutch when going from fast to slow, because if not, the clutch will actually move with the lever, making it hard to move. But it could be that the linkages just need oiled up (wd40 or pb) try not to get any on the belts. My suggestion, but its no guarantee is to remove both belts, oil everything good (and on the pulley that changes sizes, if the center disc doesn't move free try a drop of oil on it, but get excess off before you put the belts on). then put new belts on, mtd brand is recommended on that. Then after you do all of this if it still acts up then move on to adjusting the clutch. Its a last resort. Now if you have it neutral and put it in the 1st speed and the belts move then, check your brake disc it could be rusted up as well. Just throwing things out there, I try to avoid adjusting the clutch, it can be tricky and easy to make it worse!
I have troy bilt pony and itll go in reverse just fine but put it in forward and I get nothing at all. Please help.
Thank you for your video fnaguitarplayer9, I have a question: I have a Troy bilt pony (2011), I can only control the speed with the throttle lever, even when I put it in rabbit mode the motor goes at high rpm, but the ground speed is about half the normal speed; the yellow speed control lever doesn’t work, it goes up and down without locking the notches, offers no resistance and does nothing. (however, the engaging of the parking brake action works fine). I opened up the mower and saw the yellow speed control lever attached to a connecting rod which is attached down there to the cupped metal piece in the correct position as the new Troy Bilt Pony I saw yesterday at Home Depot, but besides allowing to be put in in park position, I don’t see it attached to anything else, is it right? How does it regulate the speed if it is not connected to anything else? Thank you in advance.
I’m not sure where your lever is. Mine is an MTD and the lever is on the front panel. The way the lever works will probably be the same but the linkages might be a bit different. The lever limits how far up the brake pedal goes. So if you select half speed (let’s say 3) the brake pedal will only come half way up. When the brake pedal is right down there should be pressure on the lever. When you hold the brake pedal down the pressure comes off the lever and you select the speed. When you release the brake pedal it will come up to the height you selected and the pressure should come onto the lever again.
On mine the lever has a loose linkage to a bar . The brake pedal is also connected to this bar on the other side of the mower. The bar has a linkage that moves the variable pulley. Higher speeds on the lever allow the pulley to move further back but it doesn’t actually move anything until the brake pedal is released. There should be a spring on the variable pulley and that’s what pulls it back when the brake pedal is released. You should feel the pressure of this spring when you press the brake pedal.
So if the mower keeps breaking this belt then what do think I should change next?
Thanks dude! Useful information!
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
Can a transmission based mower be converted to a variable pulley system. Mine is an older craftsman.
Thanks!
It might work, it would take alot of work to change everything over though, but it can be done. Thanks for Watching!!!
That's all good but how do you go about changing the bottom belt for the blades?
On this design you usually have to bend or remove 2 bolt-belt guards on the engine pulley and remove a few of the linkages, its a pain but there is no way around it. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 It is a lot easier to change the blade belt than the drive belts.
Great video.
Has anyone ever had an issue with the shifter stuck in a certain gear?
Mine is in low forward, and I can’t get it out. Argh…
Fna, is it fair to say that when troubleshooting this Vari-drive system, pulling mower blade deck off would create access to see what's wrong, or change belts ?
It would help some, especially if it doesn't have the center cover like this one has. Usually the belts are the problem most of the time. Thanks for Watching!!!
I'm having a problem with a LT2000 Craftsman that has a similar VSBS. The mower does not want to stop when you let off on the accelerator pedal. Does the idler system stop the belt when the pedal is released to stop the mower? This is where I think my issue is.
It could be out of adjustment or the front belt may have slipped off a idler pulley that is in between the pulley that changes sizes and the engine, some have it some don't but i had that happen once. Thanks for Watching!!!
good video ,i got a v6216 simplicity that wont change ratios
They will sometimes seize up and you can usually free them up, take the belts off and remove the pulley to get to it easier, the center part should slide really easily. hope this helps. Thanks for Watching!!!
I have same kind of mower but I need to know how the shifting in front of seat is connected if you can send me photos of guide me to video thanks
How do you adjust the clutch?
Well done
If there kept out of weather they work fine and cheap to replace
It’s all I need to mow grass and weeds
What can I check for on a slow moving 07 Murray I got new belts and when I put the small belt on the transmission and idler pulley in the back it eventually moved slower .
You may need to adjust the clutch. Or if your using aftermarket belts that could be the problem. Thanks for watching!
So if I put my hydro drive on the fastest setting but the tractor still goes the same speed as it did on the slowest setting...it would mean possibly my belt is too worn? i would think if the pulley was frozen I wouldnt be able to move the speed selecter? I have a drive like this on my Craftsman 15" wood lathe. but the one on my Simplicity 3012 tractor doesnt seem to be working as it doesnt go any faster.
I would try the belts first, but while its off make sure you can move the center pulley's center piece, if not then its stuck. Yes, you can still move the shifter even if it is frozen. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 thanks. I also noticed that the Smaller of the two pulleys seems to be messed up. one of the sides seems to be loose and sort of jingling around like its loose or worn.I guess ill have to take off the belt and check out the pulley. they other pulley seem to be working fine with the belt moving up and down when I move the speed control lever.
Good info thank you sir
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
It’s the best system and the tuffest
Why stop using it, to sale you the junk that breaks down and costs hundreds more to mow the grass 😢
It’s a fact this is the best thing for service and 30 years of service
Hey man! I know this isn't relevant to your video but I got 2 hss strats I'm fixing to wire up one has one tone the other two and I'm putting a push/pull on each vol, both have 5 way switches and I'm jus wondering if you have any suggestions about how you might wire them up, maybe so they have the most versatility, and not so much alike. Thanks man! I really like your vids! You seem like a cool dude :) thank again
I would probably wire the push pulls so that it splits the humbucker when pulled to the inside coil, that way you would have a thick humbucker sound as well as a more standard strat sound, the outside coil is just way to thin for by itself. My favorite mod on strats (i don't have a HSS setup though, but it would work just the same) is to wire it so you can have the bridge and neck pickups on together to get that middle sound like a telecaster has, which does sound really good with a HB in the bridge, i have a squier 51 too and it sounds amazing! And the push/pull on it splits the bridge hb to the inside coil, which almost sounds like a strat pickup. hope this helps! Thanks for Watching!!!
Trying to figure out the adjustment on the speed selector arm. It has 2 slotted areas for adjustment. I think one is for the break.... cant find instructions on setting them. Wish me luck
Most of the time you never have to adjust these, new belts and make sure the center pulley is moving up down freely. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 guess this is one of those times. Had to remove to clean everything. Bought it used. Opp twin operates 90deg to the trans. Belts change direction. A lot going on. Their are 2- two inch adjustments. Clutch, break, and "Vanguard Drive". Thanks though.
I finally found it. Free download from Sears parts direct. Page 7 in operators manual.
HI I have a simplicity mower with a variable speed clutch when cold the mower does not move on incline when hot it works better but still hesitates on incline is it a belt problem or pulley problem?
I would try new belts first, but when you have the belts off check center part of the pulley that changes size, the disc should slide easily. Thanks for watching
I was wondering if anybody reading who has one of these "7 speed shift on the go" MTD models with this 2 belt CVT system can say:
How well is it holding up ?
Does it tolerate moderate towing ?
How frequent are belt changes needed ?
Can you compare to Hydrostatic or other CVT lawn tractor Transmission systems?
Thanks a ton for any input.
I'm deciding which tractor & drive system to buy now.
Thats what this is, a MTD 7 "speed", it will haul a good load, but will slip easily especially going up a hill with a load on it, its a good simple system and for general use is perfect. i'm not a big fan of hydrostatics, except on zero turns, they will do good but can overheat and cause damage to them. I like the old one belt mowers, one big belt from the engine to the trans, and actual gears in the transmission, they seem to take more abuse then anything really. But I don't think anyone is making that anymore, hydro's are slowly taking over. Thanks for Watching!!!
I know this is a two year old question but for anyone else : I have a 1987 mtd with cvt that's gotten hard use the last 25 years...changed belts maybe 3 times, spindles once, blades maybe once. Towing would put extra strain on the axle input pulley and shaft, and therefore the bearing there and the housing, seems to me. Replaced the motor in 2013. I don't want hydrostatic because of possible oil seal leakage on my beautiful grass, lol.
hey im just wondering; if i swap the engine drive pulley on one of these varidrive mowers from 3.5" to 4.5" will my output speed increase? I tried putting a smaller pulley on the transaxle before but the speed stayed the same and i tried multiple pulleys but nothing happened. Knowing that it doesnt change the output speed from the rear pulley, will it increase the speed from the front pulley? I just dont want to go to Tractor Supply and pay $20 for bigger engine drive pulley and it do nothing just like what happened with the rear pulley.
Craftsman 1963 it will speed it up with a bigger pulley on the engine. This system will limit what you can get out of it. Most lawn mower racers build them with either a single belt setup with the clutch working a idler pulley or with a centrifugal clutch. The small pulley you put on the back probably didn't have enough belt tension to make it work right. Thanks for watching!!!
ok thank you very much!
Craftsman 1963 your welcome
I have that same set up but my mower only moves in low speed. I can move the shifter 1-7 but it does change the speed... still creeping along. What can I check for that?
Is the pedal moving back as it "accelerates" if not, check the spring on the variable speed pulley / clutch, and try to gently pull back on the clutch pedal and see if it speeds up. Usually on mine when i start having problems with them, its time for new belts. They might still look good but they can be stretched just a little bit and cause problems. Thanks for Watching!!!
It's a very quite engine.
I like it because the exhaust points towards the front, away from you. Thanks for Watching!!!
I can't tell if this uses a pedal for the speed or a lever. Mine uses a lever but doesn't work after changing the driver belt.
I have a similar set up only once I changed the belts it won't move unless I'm in forth to seventh gear any suggestions
The center pulley may be sticking, the one that changes sizes, i have seen them not change and make the system not work. Also if your using aftermarket belts, they won't work right with it, almost have to have oem belts for these. Thanks for Watching!
I put oem belts on checked the center of the pulley moving up and down fine watched it move like on your video and change sizes spins good moves great in 3-7 will move if not under a strain in 1-2 once it starts up hill no go. I'm sure it wouldn't pull a cart can put it in6-7 get started ride the brake like a clutch on a car to go slower then let out to go on any suggestions would be appreciated going to try changing the pulley and bearing anyway.
Also in5 its moving pretty good no real change in 6-7
maybe you can help me . iam new to this setup mine is a statesman but if its in park and the clutch is all the way pressed it it still moves if your in forward or reverse any idea how to fix it btw its gotta 12.5 hp briggs on it from a craftsman i dont know if that makes a difference or not
There is a adjustment procedure but most of the time when they do that either one of the belts is put on wrong (on wrong side of idler pulley or is on the outside of a belt guard causing to much tension) or they need to be replaced. This system is very reliable but can be picky when the belts get worn. I'd check the pulleys and belt guards first, it might be something simple like that. I have a manual for montgomery ward lawn mowers but i don't think the adjustment is the same. Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 thank you ill have to look it over good i appreciate the help
Thanks a lot!
Your welcome, Thanks for Watching!!!
So do you figure running a snow plow on a mower like that would do it a lot of harm?
it will work on the belts alot, and i've tried pulling a big load on this mower going up a big hill and had to pull the clutch back to keep the belts from slipping, its a good design but not meant for hauling. I'd say the worst that will happen is it that the belts will slip. But alot of people have done it and they seem to work though. Thanks for Watching!!!
How do you adjust the variable speed on a n689/j689 troybilt riding mower
There is a rod on the clutch pedal, but most of the time if there is any issue on this setup its do to worn belts or the middle pulley is sticking. Thanks for Watching!!!
SO IF IT WONT MOVE IN FIRST OR SECOND WHAT SHOULD I CHECK FIRST VARIABLE PULLEY , CLUTCH ADJUSTMNET ?
First thing i would check is, make sure the belt/clutch is disengaging completely, with the cover off see if the pulleys stop spinning with the clutch in, if not the clutch needs adjusted or has wrong belt on it, if it is stopping, then it may be in the transmission, either in the shifter fork detents or the gears. hope this helps, Thanks for Watching!!!
What causes the belt to keep jumping off
Variable pulley?
can u put the pulley on backwards will not shit from forward to reverse
Thanks so much! You made it very understanding. I will subscribe. If you could do the hydrostatic will be good too. I have both. Have a blessed day may you be successful and your video are educational!
Your welcome! Appreciate that sub! I haven't done a whole lot with them, but when i do there will be videos on it. Thanks for Watching!!!
That mowers gotta be 50 yrs old…:)
If you put on new drive belts and it slips some in 3 rd what could it be can you tell me
The pulley that changes sizes could be sticking or hanging up, may want to lightly oil it, to much oil and it will get on the belts. Thanks for Watching!!!
My tractor has the same setup do u have any clue to why it will only move in speed 3 it will go a little faster if I pull back on the clutch with my hand I have looked everywhere and I have no info please HELP!!!!!
I would suggest to change the belts first before you do anything else, even if the belts look like they are good they could be stretched some. This mower acted up like that and new belts fixed it. Try that first, then we'll go from there. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 I have the same problem (going only on 5 and 6th gear), replaced the best and still the same. Can not go up hill - the new belt slips (same like the old one did), and smoke comes out from the front, engine shaft pulley. Help please!
I have a ride on lawnmower I took the deck off to make it like a go cart but it has no speed how do I make it faster
cool thanks again fnaguitar
Your welcome! Thanks for Watching!!!
can the variable speed pulley wear out?
Yes, they can, the bearing can go out on them and i've seen them seize up to, the part that slides. Thanks for Watching!!!
@@fnaguitarplayer9 Do you know what can cause a mtd mower to creep after pedal is released where it wont stop ?
@@laserfalcon If you just put new belts on it, sometimes they will do that until they seat in/stretch, then it will stop, or a few times i've missed a idler pulley on the front belt (not all will have it) and it binded up putting more tension and it did that. You can adjust the clutch on these and if its none of that then thats what it will need. I've never had to adjust one, brakes yes, but never the clutch itself.
@@fnaguitarplayer9 thanks
@@fnaguitarplayer9 I believe i found the problem,. Had springs connected wrong, changed the location and works great now
Mower repair place wants $375 + parts to replace variable speed pulley on my Troybilt bronco.......... seems everyone is out to screw ya ! ☹
woah! thats crazy expensive! Thanks for Watching!!!
👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks for Watching!!!
Why wouldn’t you have any tension on the handle it just moves freely
I'm not a very big fan on variable speed I like the way that they used to build the old riding mowers with the transaxle as far as I'm concerned the transaxle was a much better system than this variable speed to me the variable speeds where is your belts out too fast
I have a older murray and it says to use the variable drive i have to press a button, anyone know where that is
I'm not sure right off hand what they are referring to, i know on one of my montgomery wards mowers (that doesn't have this setup, it has a basic belt clutch on it) it has a knob you press to release the parking brake, but it doesn't have the varia drive, so i'm not sure what that button would be right off hand. Wish i could help more! Thanks for Watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9 ok, thanks for trying, have a good day
no problem, you too!
Good video but please do not compare the belt/pulley system to a torque converter. It relates more closely to a centrifugal clutch in that you either have belt friction causing drive or you do not due to the rising pedal allowing belt contact; but has no relationship in any way to a torque converter with impeller; propeller and stater increasing drive from stationary and transmitting drive through those components via transmission oil.
Thanks, I was referring to a golf cart / go cart style torque converter not a vehicle torque converter! The type i'm talking about has 2 pulleys that change sizes. Thanks for Watching!!!