Love your videos. As a retired teacher you are a fabulous instructor. I have your wildlife presets and they are excellent. The desaturated and detail one is my favorite. Thank you again.
Thanks. I twigged to the working with the background as well as the subject to get subject to stand out. I find it is better than just trying to change the subject. Thanks for re-enforcing my thoughts.
I don't shoot birds or stuff that can move under its own volition! Nevertheless, I found your tutorial - both the shoot and the editing segments - very helpful and applicable to even general shooting. Your organization of the content and straightforward narrative made it easy to understand and follow along. Thank you, Matt. 😊
Watched this last night to try and pick up some extra tips. thanks very much Matt exceptional video. And Im please to see your mates with Blake too who I also have learnt so much on photo editing from. Best regards, James
Lovely video Matt. Loved your processing / workflow and was happy to note that my workflow is quite similar. Only thing to add is I would have warmed the image slightly to give the Eagle a more brownish tinge as it always is!
Thank you, Matt. After owning both those lens…in Wa my go to is the 600mm. The autofocus I found a lot quicker, especially in zone the transfer to single spot … the back drop is pure cream…the sharpness is better than the zoom … Sadly large price difference between the two… I finally let the 200-600 go as I never used any longer. Like you said, proper light was a must for that lens…otherwise very noisy. The noise at iso 1200 on the zoom was a lot harder to retrieve clarity than on the 600mm prime at same iso. Just my take…in love with the a1 and 600mm f4. Now we need a 300mm 2.8!
Hi Terry. Everyone is different right. I find the performance, AF, bokeh, and everything about the 200-600 to be 80% of the 600mm for a fraction of the price. It’s what I keep on my camera the most and I feel like I get better photos and more opportunities because of it. The 600mm has a place and I wouldn’t get rid of it, but for 99.9% of the people watching this (enthusiasts) it’s not practical and they need to know how outstanding the 200-600 is. Thanks Terry!
I have both and I personally find the sheer quality of the big prime very hard to ignore. But I won't get rid of the zoom for the reasons that have been discussed here.
Matt, I really enjoyed the video. I have taken thousands of bird picks in the last three years as an “old, retired guy”! Unfortunately, my activity is not in locations as exotic as you! I started out seeking eagles, and now am focusing on the smallest of birds, hiding in the canopy (although I have a fondness for Osprey and Great Blue Heron). I use the A7& IVa and the 200-600. It is a great rig. I keep trying to justify the cost of the 600mm to myself (if only I could sell some of those photos)! I guess I am a pixel peeper because I denoise EVERYTHING. If it is a keeper (anything that makes it past the raw file), it gets the full treatment! Of course, being retired may affect my priorities in that regard. I frequently use DxO Pure Raw2 or Denoise AI on my photos. My Photoshop skills are a tiny shadow of yours, so seeing your approach was very helpful. I frequently mask in Lightroom and use the texture, clarity and sharpness sliders to soften the background, and even edges of areas (distractions) I may paint-out in photoshop. Many times, I get better results than the blur tool in PS. Anyway, please consider posting more bird photo experiences!
Hi - glad you liked the video. First, I wouldn’t beat yourself up about selling photos. There’s a reason no one is selling wildlife photos - that’s because no one is buying them (sorry to say, but it’s true). As for justifying the cost of the 600mm, I’d really look at why. Will you get $13,000 worth of better photos from it and is it worth the weight to lug around and try to shoot with. After having both, I can tell you the answer is no. I enjoy the lens when I use it, and doubt I’d ever sell it… but if I knew what I know now, I probably wouldn’t buy it again. Thanks!
As always a great video Matt. How do the Sony settings compare with OM-1, are they similar. and do you still edit with On1 Raw? Sorry for the questions and many thanks Matt :)
Hi Catherine. I’m not sure what the OM-1 is but exposure is exposure no matter the camera. They all use aperture, shutter speed and iso. And no, I don’t use ON1 anymore. I never used it as my main workflow program (I use Lightroom). I used to use it as a plug-in but have since stopped since I can do everything I’d want in LR and PS. Thanks!
Yes, the 200-600 is like the best because of the zooming. A camera with 10 fps gets it just as good. Next forget about the 1.4x use a button to quickly go to APS-C 1.5x that is an instant 600 to 900 without light loss and cropped on camera using center of sensor with faster area for AF. But carry and have handy the 2x for an area that you walk upon. In APS-C you will get 1800 (cropped not real), it will also get you a full frame of the moon just for info. The other thing to mention is Gigapixel AI for the time you crop or use APS-C to crop it also has a noise function and blurring, use this before Denoise. You have to play but also Sharpen AI also a lot to choose from and compare and do first before doing things in Lr. If you need the Lens Correction later in say PS/Lr using Dxo adjustments and noise AND LC you can do an additional LC in PS/Lr. Sometimes you may want to start with the raw file noise control first and Dxo keeps lens info in the metadata enough for Lr to add an additional or better LC step. I add that while walking about with the 200-600 attach to a heavy duty binocular harness with elastic straps, it will allow you to carry hands free but make you the tripod as support and a quick draw if on a long hike also instead of in a camera bag. Remember the lens coat in a digital print the white scares wildlife and woody prints look good up close but to a bird or other wildlife shows movement as a solid at a distance, exp: deer will see the small black gun barrel move from over 200 yds - I know I have seen a deer's head perk up to smell (like a bloodhound) at that distance looking right at me and does bellowing to scare whatever they thought I was. If doing deer also wear orange, they are color blind and the best camo is Marine Corps Desert Camo for anytime even snow in winter but the $20 blaze orange sweat suit with the sticks all over a deer/moose/elk will walk right by you BUT humans will see/find you easier. You also have to blend in but be safe!!
I would disagree about changing to APS-C instead of using a Teleconverter. APS-C is just a cropped version of the full photo - not the same thing as the TC and quality isn't even close in my opinion. But if it works for you then great. The end result is all that matters :-) Thx!
Great video. I just ordered Topaz Denoise. Is it still possible to get it installed as a plug-in? It is saying that it can't do that with Photoshop CC. You said you have a tutorial on it. Which one is it?
Hi Matt, for more dynamic wildlive pictures do you prefer the A1 above the A7R 5? I have the A7R 5 but with BIF the succes rate seems to be lower than A1 shooters
Hi. Not sure what you mean by “More dynamic”. For me, the camera doesn’t really have much to do with that part. All I can say is both cameras take amazing bird photos. I’ve thought the A7r5 was actually more sticky in AF than the a1 was. But both are amazing and will take amazing photos. 30 fps and blackout free shooting are the two big benefits of the a1. Hope that helps.
Interesting Matt. I mostly use a similr workflow these days, but I prefer lighter backgrounds. To my eyes, your image is too dark tonally overall. There's not enough differentiating the Eagle from the background for me personally.
Hi Matt, thanks for the video......On the A1 what number between 1-5 on the af tracking sensitivity do you normally use for birds in flight? Many thanks.
I don't know if it would make any (noticeable) difference, but my inclination has always been to do the noise reduction via Topaz (if needed) early in the process, after any basic exposure corrections are done. I guess I'm thinking that way I'm not applying any color, sharpness, etc. changes to the noise itself? But, I have no proof it matters.
Hi Charles. Some people prefer to do it that way. For me it’s a workflow killer. I’ve tested both and I’m happy with my results of doing it last. Thanks!
Great video Matt. The background smoothing technique was new to me and I appreciate you demonstrating that. I will use it in my own bird photography. I did have a question if you don't mind. In LR, you added some texture before going into PS and then Denoise. I saw a tutorial once that instructed not to adjust texture or clarity before going into Denoise. Is that just a myth? It certainly didn't cause you any issues in this example. I often would like to tweak texture and clarity before going to Denoise but I've been reluctant to do so.
Hi Philip. Glad the tutorial helped. As for your question, I don’t know there is an answer or rule to this. It’s about personal taste and I wouldn’t let any tutorial tell you different. One thing that will help is to give it a try - and let the results and how you see it answer the question. Hope that helps.
Hello Matt. I'm a subscriber to your channel and thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge. I have a nikon d850 and i'm thinking of switching to the sony a7iv. Would you like to know your opinion about this Sony for wildlife and sports photography? thank you and best regards
Hi. Yes it’s a great camera for wildlife and sports. Great AF and if you pair it with something like the 200-600 you’ll have a really good setup. Enjoy
Nice one Matt. This video was of particular interest to me given the wildlife content. Upto now, when selecting the subject, inverting and then masking my background, I have been reducing the texture slider to slightly soften the background and, when needed to lighten the background, I have also reduced the Dehaze slider. However, I really like how you took this into Photoshop and in particular how you contracted the selection to pull back off the eagle. I like this and will be using this in future. I do have one question please: When selecting the subject particularly with eagles (birds of prey) to mask the subject or invert the selection, there is often a less than perfect selection of the primary feathers on the wing tips (as is the case in your image of the eagle). Is there a way to better refine this selection .... ?????? Cheers Matt.
Hi John. You would have to use the Add/Subtract feature and brush in as necessary. That said, it didn’t do a perfect job here but my thoughts are good enough, is always good enough. Perfect is the enemy of “good and done” :-)
My photos would disagree with that but who knows - everyone’s eyes are different. They’re razor sharp in my opinion and the photos hanging on the wall at 6.3 look fantastic.
I feel like Topaz always make my photos look cartoony no matter how light i don't go on the settings, I'd just live with a little grain in return for a natural look (Just lightroom noise reduction would do, really.)
I almost never use the defaults for sharpening or enhance details in DeNoise, moving both sliders well to the left -- if not, in fact, all the way. The default usually looks over-sharpened to me, but it does vary from photo to photo.
Is Topaz denoise better than the NR options available in Camera Raw or Lightroom or is just a more streamlined and convenient process? Thanks for any info. Looks interesting!
I'm shooting with a Canon R5, and a RF 100-500 mm Lens. I'm thinking for your Eagle Photo it might be good to shoot in 1.6 Crop Mode and post process it Topaz Gigapixel. What do you think?
Hi Howard. I’m not sure why you’d do that. You get a less magapixel photo and then artificially enlarge it which will never look as good as the real thing. Seems like a lot of work when you can just shoot the original megapixels of the camera you paid for and get the best quality? Unless I’m mis reading your question?
Honestly Ken, I don’t know. I just set the settings, press the button and shoot. That’s the nice part of this setup… set it and forget it and concentrate on the important part of getting the shot :-) hope all is well!
Great vid thanks! Subbed. Also loved the summit vids I saw. Excellent!
Love your videos. As a retired teacher you are a fabulous instructor. I have your wildlife presets and they are excellent. The desaturated and detail one is my favorite. Thank you again.
Glad you like them!
That background technique, fantastic!
As always - your tuts are appreciated and I always take something away from them
Beautiful eagle picture and nice editing!
Thanks. I twigged to the working with the background as well as the subject to get subject to stand out. I find it is better than just trying to change the subject. Thanks for re-enforcing my thoughts.
That’s a beautiful photo sir ✌️
Finally subscribed, very happy with the way you explain Lightroom, based on your teaching methods, I’m going to try out Lightroom
Thank you Matt for blur background tutorial
Love your work, Matt. You were always my favourite photoshop guys (back in the day, haha) Nice one 🤙
I don't shoot birds or stuff that can move under its own volition! Nevertheless, I found your tutorial - both the shoot and the editing segments - very helpful and applicable to even general shooting.
Your organization of the content and straightforward narrative made it easy to understand and follow along. Thank you, Matt. 😊
Watched this last night to try and pick up some extra tips. thanks very much Matt exceptional video. And Im please to see your mates with Blake too who I also have learnt so much on photo editing from. Best regards, James
Thanks for the video!
Thx…very informative! May I suggest you show the camera settings in Lightroom display so we can view and have that as a backup to your discussion?
Great tuturial! Thanks Matt!
Lovely video Matt. Loved your processing / workflow and was happy to note that my workflow is quite similar. Only thing to add is I would have warmed the image slightly to give the Eagle a more brownish tinge as it always is!
Thank you, good video.
Isnt it possible to use the Denoise function only to the background ?
It softens the subject too much imo.
thanks!!
Thank you, Matt. After owning both those lens…in Wa my go to is the 600mm. The autofocus I found a lot quicker, especially in zone the transfer to single spot … the back drop is pure cream…the sharpness is better than the zoom … Sadly large price difference between the two… I finally let the 200-600 go as I never used any longer. Like you said, proper light was a must for that lens…otherwise very noisy. The noise at iso 1200 on the zoom was a lot harder to retrieve clarity than on the 600mm prime at same iso. Just my take…in love with the a1 and 600mm f4. Now we need a 300mm 2.8!
Hi Terry. Everyone is different right. I find the performance, AF, bokeh, and everything about the 200-600 to be 80% of the 600mm for a fraction of the price. It’s what I keep on my camera the most and I feel like I get better photos and more opportunities because of it. The 600mm has a place and I wouldn’t get rid of it, but for 99.9% of the people watching this (enthusiasts) it’s not practical and they need to know how outstanding the 200-600 is. Thanks Terry!
I have both and I personally find the sheer quality of the big prime very hard to ignore. But I won't get rid of the zoom for the reasons that have been discussed here.
Matt, I really enjoyed the video. I have taken thousands of bird picks in the last three years as an “old, retired guy”! Unfortunately, my activity is not in locations as exotic as you! I started out seeking eagles, and now am focusing on the smallest of birds, hiding in the canopy (although I have a fondness for Osprey and Great Blue Heron). I use the A7& IVa and the 200-600. It is a great rig. I keep trying to justify the cost of the 600mm to myself (if only I could sell some of those photos)! I guess I am a pixel peeper because I denoise EVERYTHING. If it is a keeper (anything that makes it past the raw file), it gets the full treatment! Of course, being retired may affect my priorities in that regard. I frequently use DxO Pure Raw2 or Denoise AI on my photos. My Photoshop skills are a tiny shadow of yours, so seeing your approach was very helpful. I frequently mask in Lightroom and use the texture, clarity and sharpness sliders to soften the background, and even edges of areas (distractions) I may paint-out in photoshop. Many times, I get better results than the blur tool in PS. Anyway, please consider posting more bird photo experiences!
Hi - glad you liked the video. First, I wouldn’t beat yourself up about selling photos. There’s a reason no one is selling wildlife photos - that’s because no one is buying them (sorry to say, but it’s true). As for justifying the cost of the 600mm, I’d really look at why. Will you get $13,000 worth of better photos from it and is it worth the weight to lug around and try to shoot with. After having both, I can tell you the answer is no. I enjoy the lens when I use it, and doubt I’d ever sell it… but if I knew what I know now, I probably wouldn’t buy it again. Thanks!
@@MattKloskowski Sound advice no doubt! I take photos for the joy of it, so any commercial effort would reduce the fun! Now one of the GM
100 to 400 is clearly justifiable! Ha ha!
As always a great video Matt. How do the Sony settings compare with OM-1, are they similar. and do you still edit with On1 Raw? Sorry for the questions and many thanks Matt :)
Hi Catherine. I’m not sure what the OM-1 is but exposure is exposure no matter the camera. They all use aperture, shutter speed and iso. And no, I don’t use ON1 anymore. I never used it as my main workflow program (I use Lightroom). I used to use it as a plug-in but have since stopped since I can do everything I’d want in LR and PS. Thanks!
Yes, the 200-600 is like the best because of the zooming. A camera with 10 fps gets it just as good. Next forget about the 1.4x use a button to quickly go to APS-C 1.5x that is an instant 600 to 900 without light loss and cropped on camera using center of sensor with faster area for AF. But carry and have handy the 2x for an area that you walk upon. In APS-C you will get 1800 (cropped not real), it will also get you a full frame of the moon just for info. The other thing to mention is Gigapixel AI for the time you crop or use APS-C to crop it also has a noise function and blurring, use this before Denoise. You have to play but also Sharpen AI also a lot to choose from and compare and do first before doing things in Lr. If you need the Lens Correction later in say PS/Lr using Dxo adjustments and noise AND LC you can do an additional LC in PS/Lr. Sometimes you may want to start with the raw file noise control first and Dxo keeps lens info in the metadata enough for Lr to add an additional or better LC step. I add that while walking about with the 200-600 attach to a heavy duty binocular harness with elastic straps, it will allow you to carry hands free but make you the tripod as support and a quick draw if on a long hike also instead of in a camera bag. Remember the lens coat in a digital print the white scares wildlife and woody prints look good up close but to a bird or other wildlife shows movement as a solid at a distance, exp: deer will see the small black gun barrel move from over 200 yds - I know I have seen a deer's head perk up to smell (like a bloodhound) at that distance looking right at me and does bellowing to scare whatever they thought I was. If doing deer also wear orange, they are color blind and the best camo is Marine Corps Desert Camo for anytime even snow in winter but the $20 blaze orange sweat suit with the sticks all over a deer/moose/elk will walk right by you BUT humans will see/find you easier. You also have to blend in but be safe!!
I would disagree about changing to APS-C instead of using a Teleconverter. APS-C is just a cropped version of the full photo - not the same thing as the TC and quality isn't even close in my opinion. But if it works for you then great. The end result is all that matters :-) Thx!
Great video. I just ordered Topaz Denoise. Is it still possible to get it installed as a plug-in? It is saying that it can't do that with Photoshop CC. You said you have a tutorial on it. Which one is it?
Hi Matt, for more dynamic wildlive pictures do you prefer the A1 above the A7R 5? I have the A7R 5 but with BIF the succes rate seems to be lower than A1 shooters
Hi. Not sure what you mean by “More dynamic”. For me, the camera doesn’t really have much to do with that part. All I can say is both cameras take amazing bird photos. I’ve thought the A7r5 was actually more sticky in AF than the a1 was. But both are amazing and will take amazing photos. 30 fps and blackout free shooting are the two big benefits of the a1. Hope that helps.
I click on ENTER to commit the crop and CTRL+Z to redo on PC.
Interesting Matt. I mostly use a similr workflow these days, but I prefer lighter backgrounds. To my eyes, your image is too dark tonally overall. There's not enough differentiating the Eagle from the background for me personally.
Hi Matt, thanks for the video......On the A1 what number between 1-5 on the af tracking sensitivity do you normally use for birds in flight? Many thanks.
Hi. I keep it at the default of 3. Thanks.
I don't know if it would make any (noticeable) difference, but my inclination has always been to do the noise reduction via Topaz (if needed) early in the process, after any basic exposure corrections are done. I guess I'm thinking that way I'm not applying any color, sharpness, etc. changes to the noise itself? But, I have no proof it matters.
Hi Charles. Some people prefer to do it that way. For me it’s a workflow killer. I’ve tested both and I’m happy with my results of doing it last. Thanks!
how do those fine details come across in a zoom meeting
Not sure, but give it a try and let us know.
Great video Matt. The background smoothing technique was new to me and I appreciate you demonstrating that. I will use it in my own bird photography. I did have a question if you don't mind. In LR, you added some texture before going into PS and then Denoise. I saw a tutorial once that instructed not to adjust texture or clarity before going into Denoise. Is that just a myth? It certainly didn't cause you any issues in this example. I often would like to tweak texture and clarity before going to Denoise but I've been reluctant to do so.
Hi Philip. Glad the tutorial helped. As for your question, I don’t know there is an answer or rule to this. It’s about personal taste and I wouldn’t let any tutorial tell you different. One thing that will help is to give it a try - and let the results and how you see it answer the question. Hope that helps.
Hello Matt.
I'm a subscriber to your channel and thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge. I have a nikon d850 and i'm thinking of switching to the sony a7iv. Would you like to know your opinion about this Sony for wildlife and sports photography? thank you and best regards
Hi. Yes it’s a great camera for wildlife and sports. Great AF and if you pair it with something like the 200-600 you’ll have a really good setup. Enjoy
I'm a little confused. So when you bring the photo into PS from LR, what type of photo is it? JPEG, TIFF? You say not RAW. Thanks!!!
I use TIFF but it doesn’t matter. It wouldn’t change the outcome of anything I did here.
Nice one Matt. This video was of particular interest to me given the wildlife content. Upto now, when selecting the subject, inverting and then masking my background, I have been reducing the texture slider to slightly soften the background and, when needed to lighten the background, I have also reduced the Dehaze slider. However, I really like how you took this into Photoshop and in particular how you contracted the selection to pull back off the eagle. I like this and will be using this in future. I do have one question please: When selecting the subject particularly with eagles (birds of prey) to mask the subject or invert the selection, there is often a less than perfect selection of the primary feathers on the wing tips (as is the case in your image of the eagle). Is there a way to better refine this selection .... ?????? Cheers Matt.
Hi John. You would have to use the Add/Subtract feature and brush in as necessary. That said, it didn’t do a perfect job here but my thoughts are good enough, is always good enough. Perfect is the enemy of “good and done” :-)
@@MattKloskowski Thank you. Cheers
200-600 it's sharp at F.8-9. and very... but VERY soft at F.6.3
My photos would disagree with that but who knows - everyone’s eyes are different. They’re razor sharp in my opinion and the photos hanging on the wall at 6.3 look fantastic.
I feel like Topaz always make my photos look cartoony no matter how light i don't go on the settings, I'd just live with a little grain in return for a natural look (Just lightroom noise reduction would do, really.)
For some, not many, photos LR will work. For high iso wildlife it just doesn’t do the job and Topaz (or some 3rd party Noise software) is needed.
I almost never use the defaults for sharpening or enhance details in DeNoise, moving both sliders well to the left -- if not, in fact, all the way. The default usually looks over-sharpened to me, but it does vary from photo to photo.
Is Topaz denoise better than the NR options available in Camera Raw or Lightroom or is just a more streamlined and convenient process? Thanks for any info. Looks interesting!
Hi Dan. For my high ISO wildlife photos Camera Raw or Lightroom don’t even come close to Topaz DeNoise. Thanks.
@@MattKloskowski wow, interesting! Thanks Matt.
Why not Surface blur instead of GB? Poor guy doesn't look like he's had anything to eat since he left the nest...
I'm shooting with a Canon R5, and a RF 100-500 mm Lens. I'm thinking for your Eagle Photo it might be good to shoot in 1.6 Crop Mode and post process it Topaz Gigapixel. What do you think?
Hi Howard. I’m not sure why you’d do that. You get a less magapixel photo and then artificially enlarge it which will never look as good as the real thing. Seems like a lot of work when you can just shoot the original megapixels of the camera you paid for and get the best quality? Unless I’m mis reading your question?
@@MattKloskowski I guess your saying just crop in post.
Yep. Upsizing programs should be a last resort.
What was original exp compensation? I know when I have a dark background in zero or -1, with a bright sky +1 or +2
Honestly Ken, I don’t know. I just set the settings, press the button and shoot. That’s the nice part of this setup… set it and forget it and concentrate on the important part of getting the shot :-) hope all is well!
@@MattKloskowski thanks, hope to meet up again one day maybe PSW