Hi I have one of these I purchased for my son in the 80s. I still have it we had to build it, it was a do it yourself build kit, we had a blast. I can send you picks of this car completed with motor, batteries everything it came with. I still have lots of motors we even added deans to the saddle pack batteries. This cars is super fast we were in shock after we built it and let it rip. We even started going to the race track (so cal) with it. We added a light spray of coke to the road for grip, to avoid the slide from the wheels spinning so fast. We paid over 1000.00 for it with parts, so you got a great deal. Next thing I knew my son had motorcycle rc, helicopters, trains, buggy's and planes. This hobby can get expensive but loads of fun to watch. Not certain if i still have the parts book for it. I would imagine parts are probably hard to find for it these days, but more than likely not impossible because it's team associated. This brings back so many memories.
Used to run these at the local high banked carpet oval track back in the day . Brings back memories. They are extremely fast brushed with an old Novak T-4 esc and magnum Jr. Radio lol, can't imagine one brushless. Loved my 10L
I'm in exactly the same spot as you -- maybe 8 years ago I bought someone's bin of parts and an RC10L chassis. It *looked* like it would run right out of the box but the batteries were shot, so I've never had it moving. I just pulled it all out and I think it's time to build it back up... Wish me luck!
There's a lot of renewed interest in pan cars in general recently. A lot of folks forget that pan cars were where the RC car hobby as we know it today got its start many years ago. I was initially on the fence about how I wanted to go with this one - brushed or brushless, hence the reason I made the video. But after seeing the values of these vintage RC10Ls really start to climb on the used market, I've decided to build it up as a pure vintage pan car. I have a number of parts for it keeping with that theme, but there's still a couple of things I need to decide going forward. I plan to make at least one more follow up video on this, if not a couple more, but with other projects on my bench right now, this one has taken a bit of a back seat for the time being. But best of luck with your build. I hope you get it up and running without any issues.
This car was used for indoor asphalt oval track racing. Spent most of my childhood racing these at one stop raceway in los Alamitos California. Every weekend there was competitions as well as endurance races during the week. Those were the days. We use to put this sticky stuff on the foam tires that made the foam more rubbery and would stick to the oval pretty well. Handling was everything especially on the bank turns. They came in kit form only. Entry level had a fiberglass chassis. Graphite was the more expensive one. No electronics included at all. Roughly 219 dollars. With an 8cell nicad battery pack ball bearing modified motor Novak and tekin esc was able to get the 10l to 75mph then would lift off the ground and go airborne. Miss the days Still managed to keep my rc10l3 after all these years :)
It's fun to reminisce about the golden age of RC. I vaguely remember seeing RC10L kits for sale in my local hobby stores, but I do remember seeing them advertised and written about in RC magazines of the day. The one thing I did know: if you wanted to go ridiculously fast, you got a pan car. Period. This particular RC10L was my very first Associated product, and I genuinely knew nothing about it when it arrived. I've since learned quite a bit about the RC10L, but I still love to hear stories like yours about what they were like back in the day. Thanks so much for sharing!
HOLY CRAP, ME TOO!!! I practically lived at OneStop during my freshman and sophomore years at Los Al... Started with an RC10 when they were still a dirt banked oval (Sprint), but when laid the asphalt, I moved to the RC10L and started competing a bit. I miss it badly, but I have no idea how i could ever afford this hobby at that age, cause i certainly can't afford to get into it now.
I used to race asphalt at One Stop, too. I got into road racing when I was given a RC12i. Eventually I got a RC12L, RC10L SS & RC10L I think it was around 91-92. through out all this I was an avid dirt racer, too. I remember many tracks. The first track I ever went to blew my mind as a young teen. it was Hot Trax in Huntington Beach. I Giant warehouse with two rooms; One for dirt and the other for carpet. That was the place to be. Losi Jr & Jack Johnson would test race the prototype JRX2 on club nights. The carpet track was massive.
I used to race both 10L and 12L pan cars nearly every weekend $$$ back in the late 80's and early 90's. My 10L was a homemade thin cut fiberglass 10L chassis but the 12L was a graphite factory original. My setup was a Novak speed controller with a Futaba radio and steering servo setup. Some of my more favorite motors were from Trinity. They came with different windings if I remember correctly such as 10/1,10/2 or 10/3 that seemed like greased lightening fast just using 4 NiCad batteries and running 6 batteries was just totally insane fast and best used outdoors. The use or running of 6-C sized NiCad batteries was something I reserved for outside parking lot use only but that was fairly short lived. One fine sunny day a stray signal hit the car, it took off across the parking lot for nearly 75 yards at an estimated 60 to 70 mph in a straight line and exploded into it's basic parts once it struck a squared off curb. Both of the plastic front wheel assemblies had to be replaced, the custom battery pack broke the zip ties and had to be rewired, both front and back body posts snapped off at chassis level, the Futaba receiver, servo and Novak speed controller came off the chassis from it's double stick foam tape but later luckily all the parts were found within a 10' radius. Later after all the repairs had been made, the electronics all somehow survived and still worked. IF you plan to build a retro version or a new Li Ion version I have seen that they do make a stray signal blocker nowadays. I certainly advise buying and using one considering R/C then or now is still a somewhat expensive addiction.
As tragic an outcome as your pan car suffered, I love hearing these stories of vintage RC cars and what it was like to run them back in the day. It really brings me back to why I got into this hobby on the first place. Thanks very much for sharing. As for my RC10L I've pretty much decided on an all vintage build. I have actually picked up a brand new (still sealed) Novak ESC and receiver which I plan to install on my 10L. I haven't decided on a motor yet, but I've been looking for a 10 turn triple wind (10Tx2) brushed motor in good condition to install, preferably something from Trinity or Reedy, but I'm sure a Parma or Orion would be just as awesome. I'm also going to need a pinion and of course wheels and tires. It's a slow process - the global situation has inflated the prices of vintage RC gear as more and more folks are home with not much to do but delve into old hobbies and nostalgia. Can't blame them really. Thanks again for sharing your experiences with these old pan cars.
I used to race this back in 92 and 93, when I was 23 or so. We had a club with a nice indoor carpet track. (my old racing box still smells like tire compound! lol) I believe mine was an L10SS, which was a little more narrow. (if I remember correctly...it's been a while lol) I had a foam front bumper and that was pretty useful in saving your body. It basically slipped over the front posts and filled in the area between the posts and the body. I bet I still have a few parts somewhere. Pretty sure I upgraded the axle with a graphite one. I used to tear down the diff after every race, relube the bearings and plates. It was all great fun. 4 minutes of adrenaline :) Would have been interesting to see how things would have gone with Lipo batteries. As far as what to do with it, look for some tires, put some electronics in it and give it a go :) Personally, I'd put a "stock" motor in it and run it vintage. They're wicked fast when you get them setup right, even with a stock motor.
Thanks for sharing memories of your SS. Yeah I have a feeling that even with a "stock" brushed motor this thing will be insanely fast and a real handful. I may do just that (I have a vintage stock Associated motor that I believe came included in a vintage RC10 buggy kit) since I won't be running this car in any sort of competitive setting.
I raced these pan cars back in the early 90s and they were amazingly quick for the day. Would love to see a video once you’ve got it running which ever way you decide to go. Fun fact: The with foam tires in those days we used sunscreen as a tire softening compound. For whatever reason some of its ingredients made the tyres much more grippy.
Sunscreen? I never would have thought of that. Thanks for sharing! As for this project it's been on the back burner for a while. Vintage parts for these old RC10Ls are getting a bit difficult to find, and often they're expensive. But with winter on its way here I may dig this old project out and maybe do a follow-up video. But yeah once it's done I'll definitely make a running video.
eBay is my go-to for parts for these vintage RC10L pan cars. You could also try visiting local hobby shops - particularly older ones - and see if they have any old stock of parts lying around. Sometimes you get lucky and find gold.
I actually have a bunch of vintage (new in box stuff) parts coming for this model. Don't want to give too much away because I want to do a follow-up video to thos, but given the values of these cars recently, I've decided to keep this one vintage. If I build a new pan car, like something from Xray RC, then I'll definitely go brushless.
@@RCRacingLegends I have a vintage McAllister mx pro pan car, i went full vintage electronics plenty fast enough for what its intended for. Cant wait to see what you have done with this.
Thanks Chris. This is one project which I've been gathering various parts for over the last few months. I've decided to keep this one pure vintage, so it'll be all Novak, Tekin, Associated, Reedy, Futaba... all the classics for this build. Still need to source wheels and tires, and a few other bits before I can get into it though (as well as get a few other builds off the bench too).
I have the ss version of this car and just purchased another regular road course version from eBay complete needs overhaul. I still race my ss version at my local track against modern day stuff and it holds it’s on for sure in fact in the 3 races I’ve ran it 2 I’ve came super close to winning but broke out late in the A-main Deff still a competitive car ! Realize almost all modern pan cars were designed off this original design and still to this day many parts for modern cars fit these. Only a few hard to find parts on them which hardly ever break.
The SS was the Super Speedway version of the RC10L, wasn't it? I think it was meant for like ultra high-speed running on dedicated velodrome type tracks if I remember correctly. To be honest, my RC10L is still sitting in wait, while I turn my focus on some of my other RCs. I need to either complete a few or get them to a state where I can consider them "done" before I turn my attention to this vintage masterpiece.
Yeah, I'm actually not surprised at all about the cracked tires. This is an old model; bought it used off eBay years ago. I have no idea what its history is or how it was stored, so frankly foam degradation is a given. Besides, I wouldn't really want to use the car with old foam anyway.
RC Racing Legends I’m am not familiar with 1/12 Pan cars but I am interested in getting one. Regarding that rc10L setup. maybe you can use tamiya Esc and brushed motor meant for tamiya TT02. The spur gear being very old may have some form of dry rotting. It will be brittle to some extent, and it might not be able handle today’s brushless motors. That’s coming from my experience of my old 1998 picco integra, which Is a 1/8 nitro onroad pan car. I got it pre owned on 2011 it has not ran for a decade according to the original owner. I also shelved the car and I got it to run on nitro in 2016, it worked fine until it’s clutch was worn. Converted it to brushles. And even with only 4s, it chewed almost all the original spur gears The previous owner provided. I had 3D printed an adaptor that fit aluminum spur gears meant for a D8 Truggy for it to handle brushless. Worked fine now, but shelved it again. For me, its up to you how to you want to get it to work. But if you plan to bash it a bit hard. Replace the original spur gear and wheels. Put them in shelf as memorabilia. Parts compatibility with modern cars won’t be a problem if you have a caliper, 3D modeling skill, and a 3d printer or atleast someone who can 3D print for you.
You've given me a lot to think about here. If I do go brushed with this, I may try to stick with vintage parts, like a Novak ESC and Futaba receiver or something. Of course, if I do that, then this may end up just being a shelf queen and not really see much use. But, if I DO decide to use it, I know the performance of brushless will be insane, especially for something as light as this RC10L; I'm sure even a cheap brushless motor and ESC combo from Hobbywing would turn it into a real rocket. But I didn't realize the original spur gear might be compromise simply due to it's age. I'm glad you mentioned that! I'm fortunate - I have the capability to CAD up and print my own parts (I have a small print farm) so I may end up doing that.
@@RCRacingLegends I said about a year ago that you need to have the spurs 3D printed because the original may have dry rotted. I just obtained one. An alternative solution is that you can try using tamiya tt02s TBLE 02 recievers and a tamiya 540 brushed motors. Go partially vintage. Its ball diff will simply slide and wear down with too much power.
These cars were designed to be on-road banked oval, simulating Nascar. The direct drive differential gear was perfect for maintaining control at high speed in that left turn only type scenario.. They were a little too squirrely for flat on-road formula style tracks with lots of turns, though. These were commonly raced with modified motors at large velodrome tracks, which had pit stops to change batteries and tires, as well as performing repairs. If I remember right, they could easily push around 80+mph with a modified motor and a standard battery. The appropriate body for one of these would be a stock car. The nerf bars and extended bumper was to protect the suspension and wheels when crashing at high speed, but added a bit of weight. The battery pack was mounted on the left side of the pan (over the slots), and the speed controller and radio were mounted on the right. This would center the weight slightly left of center, which worked well keeping the car stable at high speed for banked oval and velodrome tracks. I don't know if you can get replacement wheels for the rear that aren't foam (as the foam would require tire compound), but rubber would be better for driving when not on a track. Anyways, seems like it may have been a fun project, I'll poke around your channel and see if what you eventually did Thanks for the nostalgia!
This is one project that's been on the back burner for a while. I'm going to keep this one vintage and not upgrade it to modern brushless electronics. I have many of the items I need to finish it off, just a few bits left to find. You're right, old foam tires and wheels aren't easy to find. But this is one I'll be trying to get back into soon.
That's awesome! I've pretty much made my mind up that I'm making mine into a proper vintage build. I think it deserves it. Now I just need to start hunting down the vintage parts I'll need to finish the build. Not sure if I want to completely disassemble this one to clean up all the parts the way I did with the RC10, but I may. I have a couple of R/C vehicles that are ahead of this one, so this will be a longer-term build I think.
I hear ya. Between the RC10, the Tamiya kits I have waiting for me to get into, and a couple of WLToys 1/28 cars I have, this RC10L is going on the back burner for a little while. But I'll keep my eyes on eBay for deals on some vintage bits. They come up often, but sometimes their prices are really rather ridiculous (I think I saw a vintage brushed Trinity 10turn 540 motor for $800 recently! That's a bit a lot much).
Did you ever build this up? If you didn’t set it up with a fully rebuildable brushed motor and modern electronics. You could do a smaller 2s battery and keep it light.
I'm still sitting on this project. Really haven't done much of anything with it since posting this video. I have collected a few vintage bits for it, like a brushed motor and vintage Novak ESC. But beyond that it's been on the back burner as I've had other projects taking priority. But I do appreciate the suggestions.
I completely agree. Pan car design hasn't really advanced all that much from these old RC10L cars with the exception of better batteries and electronics. I think with a good brushless system, shorty lipo pack, and a modern ESC, a 10L would run side by side with some of the latest pan cars. As for the T-Bar, the only thing I could think of would be to make your own. Places like Send Cut Send could probably easily make replacements out of the appropriate thickness carbon fiber, and I doubt it would be very expensive.
2s saddle pack with a 17.5 or 21.5 keep the speed down so you don’t break it. I don’t know if modern foam wheels will mount to the stock hubs and spindles. Box art paint the body and enjoy as a fun runner or shelf queen.
Um the modern foam tires will work for with bsr contacts are a little to tall for this type of pan car and cut the new tires down to keep them from chunking
That's a pretty awesome idea. Can't imagine vintage hop-ups for this old car will be easy to find though. Any specific suggestions for hop-ups you had in mind?
Everyone new to pan cars a brushed 20 turn motor with nicad batteries is very fast on a carpet oval track running faster then the 17.5 brushless class and the class with the brushed motor is called Busch it's a spec class ment so guys can bring their old rc10 oval cars out and be competitive. The brushless 17.5 class runs low 5 second laps on oval and the brushed class run 4.1-3.8 on the snowbird oval. I get to race on the snowbird carpet every weekend and exact same size oval due to track owner buying the snowbirds carpet and all the walls for building the track layouts.and we do oval one week then road course following week. Brushed motors can be very fast
No real updates on this one yet. I've pretty much decided that I'll be going full vintage with this one. I do have a few parts I've collected, but there's still a few additional items I need in order to get started on it. I do have a couple of other projects ahead of this one though so it may be a little while longer before I can get into it. BTW - what batteries did you order? Where did you order them from?
Go brushed got a 21 turn motor that's what I run in my rj speed legend and mybusch oval car currently and on the Busch pan car it is running 4.2 sec laps on snowbird size oval with nicad. A good brushed motor will be plenty of power for that thing especially since you are running foam tires on asphalt its gonna be hard to get it to stick on asphalt with a brushed motor is all you nees
I was thinking a brushed 10 turn or 12 turn triple. From my research (and from what I remember back in the day) that was the type of "hot" setups when these cars were raced competitively.
Just google information about your Vintage Team Associated RC10L pictures manuals and call hobby shops that has carpet track. You are not in a rush so do your homework before you decide on anything , but it will cost you more than what you paid for the car.
None of the local hobby shops near me have a carpet track, but I'm sure those close to me can make some suggestions. But to be honest, I've been looking online at the recent prices of these vintage Team Associated RC10L pan cars, and they've really gone up significantly the last little while. I think the nostalgia of the 80's has driven the price of these RC10Ls (and the RC10 buggy) upwards quite a bit. So that being said, I'm now really leaning towards just building/restoring this one to a vintage spec (brushed motor, old-school ESC, NiMh batteries, etc...) and just leaving it as a shelf queen. If prices continue to climb - and given their overall rarity - I'm not sure I would want to actually use it and risk damage, but instead just leave it as piece of history to look at.
Really? I haven't actually looked for quite some time. But to be honest I'm not surprised. The prices of any vintage Associated car in good shape seem to have climbed quite a bit the last while. I'm guessing rarity, coupled with nostalgia, is driving their collectability upward.
Man I thought u had put something together. Just talk. I have bought the same car same reason. Its a rocket for parking lot racing with a 9t brushless. Its an old car that's still a respectable monster.
Nope, not in this particular video. Sorry to disappoint. But if I had built anything I would have put the word "build" in the title (and probably the thumbnail). In this case, I was simply looking for advice on what to do with this RC10L. As a project, it's still on the back burner as I have a few other RC projects that are in the works at the moment. Just been a bit too busy with regular life to record and post any new videos.
@@RCRacingLegends was thinking u was going to put one of the two or both on it. C how it goes. My suggest is put weights on the front. At a middle speed for me the front end gets really light. I have a lot of rear down force but I still can eat up a TC car any day I pull it out. Just work with it and put on the new tech. It works great. Don't go beyond 2s.
@@RCRacingLegends depends on what you're doing with it. I had a chassis for a school competition and had to run a 17.5T or more setup. We had used chassis and the one that was wider handled like a dream and ran great with a cheap 17.5t motor and esc on amazon. www.amazon.com/SkyRC-Cheetah-4000KV-Sensored-Brushless/dp/B01M7YLGOX/ref=sr_1_31?dchild=1&keywords=17.5+sensored+brushless+motor+and+esc&qid=1598224669&sr=8-31 (same brand, looked the same but ours was 17.5T not the 8.5T that this one is) it was very quiet too.
@@fastslash25 Thanks very much for the suggestion! I'm definitely going to check that motor out as an option. I'm still on the fence as to what I'm going to do with this particular car. I have a number of different projects on the go right now, but this is one I'd like to dive into at some point in the near future.
Hi I have one of these I purchased for my son in the 80s. I still have it we had to build it, it was a do it yourself build kit, we had a blast. I can send you picks of this car completed with motor, batteries everything it came with. I still have lots of motors we even added deans to the saddle pack batteries. This cars is super fast we were in shock after we built it and let it rip. We even started going to the race track (so cal) with it. We added a light spray of coke to the road for grip, to avoid the slide from the wheels spinning so fast. We paid over 1000.00 for it with parts, so you got a great deal. Next thing I knew my son had motorcycle rc, helicopters, trains, buggy's and planes. This hobby can get expensive but loads of fun to watch. Not certain if i still have the parts book for it. I would imagine parts are probably hard to find for it these days, but more than likely not impossible because it's team associated. This brings back so many memories.
Used to run these at the local high banked carpet oval track back in the day . Brings back memories. They are extremely fast brushed with an old Novak T-4 esc and magnum Jr. Radio lol, can't imagine one brushless. Loved my 10L
I'm in exactly the same spot as you -- maybe 8 years ago I bought someone's bin of parts and an RC10L chassis. It *looked* like it would run right out of the box but the batteries were shot, so I've never had it moving. I just pulled it all out and I think it's time to build it back up... Wish me luck!
There's a lot of renewed interest in pan cars in general recently. A lot of folks forget that pan cars were where the RC car hobby as we know it today got its start many years ago.
I was initially on the fence about how I wanted to go with this one - brushed or brushless, hence the reason I made the video. But after seeing the values of these vintage RC10Ls really start to climb on the used market, I've decided to build it up as a pure vintage pan car. I have a number of parts for it keeping with that theme, but there's still a couple of things I need to decide going forward. I plan to make at least one more follow up video on this, if not a couple more, but with other projects on my bench right now, this one has taken a bit of a back seat for the time being.
But best of luck with your build. I hope you get it up and running without any issues.
This car was used for indoor asphalt oval track racing. Spent most of my childhood racing these at one stop raceway in los Alamitos California. Every weekend there was competitions as well as endurance races during the week. Those were the days.
We use to put this sticky stuff on the foam tires that made the foam more rubbery and would stick to the oval pretty well. Handling was everything especially on the bank turns.
They came in kit form only. Entry level had a fiberglass chassis. Graphite was the more expensive one. No electronics included at all. Roughly 219 dollars.
With an 8cell nicad battery pack ball bearing modified motor Novak and tekin esc was able to get the 10l to 75mph then would lift off the ground and go airborne. Miss the days
Still managed to keep my rc10l3 after all these years :)
It's fun to reminisce about the golden age of RC. I vaguely remember seeing RC10L kits for sale in my local hobby stores, but I do remember seeing them advertised and written about in RC magazines of the day. The one thing I did know: if you wanted to go ridiculously fast, you got a pan car. Period.
This particular RC10L was my very first Associated product, and I genuinely knew nothing about it when it arrived. I've since learned quite a bit about the RC10L, but I still love to hear stories like yours about what they were like back in the day.
Thanks so much for sharing!
HOLY CRAP, ME TOO!!! I practically lived at OneStop during my freshman and sophomore years at Los Al... Started with an RC10 when they were still a dirt banked oval (Sprint), but when laid the asphalt, I moved to the RC10L and started competing a bit. I miss it badly, but I have no idea how i could ever afford this hobby at that age, cause i certainly can't afford to get into it now.
I used to race asphalt at One Stop, too. I got into road racing when I was given a RC12i. Eventually I got a RC12L, RC10L SS & RC10L I think it was around 91-92. through out all this I was an avid dirt racer, too. I remember many tracks. The first track I ever went to blew my mind as a young teen. it was Hot Trax in Huntington Beach. I Giant warehouse with two rooms; One for dirt and the other for carpet. That was the place to be. Losi Jr & Jack Johnson would test race the prototype JRX2 on club nights. The carpet track was massive.
I used to race both 10L and 12L pan cars nearly every weekend $$$ back in the late 80's and early 90's.
My 10L was a homemade thin cut fiberglass 10L chassis but the 12L was a graphite factory original.
My setup was a Novak speed controller with a Futaba radio and steering servo setup. Some of my more favorite motors were from Trinity. They came with different windings if I remember correctly such as 10/1,10/2 or 10/3 that seemed like greased lightening fast just using 4 NiCad batteries and running 6 batteries was just totally insane fast and best used outdoors. The use or running of 6-C sized NiCad batteries was something I reserved for outside parking lot use only but that was fairly short lived. One fine sunny day a stray signal hit the car, it took off across the parking lot for nearly 75 yards at an estimated 60 to 70 mph in a straight line and exploded into it's basic parts once it struck a squared off curb. Both of the plastic front wheel assemblies had to be replaced, the custom battery pack broke the zip ties and had to be rewired, both front and back body posts snapped off at chassis level, the Futaba receiver, servo and Novak speed controller came off the chassis from it's double stick foam tape but later luckily all the parts were found within a 10' radius. Later after all the repairs had been made, the electronics all somehow survived and still worked. IF you plan to build a retro version or a new Li Ion version I have seen that they do make a stray signal blocker nowadays. I certainly advise buying and using one considering R/C then or now is still a somewhat expensive addiction.
As tragic an outcome as your pan car suffered, I love hearing these stories of vintage RC cars and what it was like to run them back in the day. It really brings me back to why I got into this hobby on the first place. Thanks very much for sharing.
As for my RC10L I've pretty much decided on an all vintage build. I have actually picked up a brand new (still sealed) Novak ESC and receiver which I plan to install on my 10L. I haven't decided on a motor yet, but I've been looking for a 10 turn triple wind (10Tx2) brushed motor in good condition to install, preferably something from Trinity or Reedy, but I'm sure a Parma or Orion would be just as awesome. I'm also going to need a pinion and of course wheels and tires. It's a slow process - the global situation has inflated the prices of vintage RC gear as more and more folks are home with not much to do but delve into old hobbies and nostalgia. Can't blame them really.
Thanks again for sharing your experiences with these old pan cars.
I used to race this back in 92 and 93, when I was 23 or so. We had a club with a nice indoor carpet track. (my old racing box still smells like tire compound! lol) I believe mine was an L10SS, which was a little more narrow. (if I remember correctly...it's been a while lol)
I had a foam front bumper and that was pretty useful in saving your body. It basically slipped over the front posts and filled in the area between the posts and the body.
I bet I still have a few parts somewhere. Pretty sure I upgraded the axle with a graphite one.
I used to tear down the diff after every race, relube the bearings and plates.
It was all great fun. 4 minutes of adrenaline :)
Would have been interesting to see how things would have gone with Lipo batteries.
As far as what to do with it, look for some tires, put some electronics in it and give it a go :) Personally, I'd put a "stock" motor in it and run it vintage.
They're wicked fast when you get them setup right, even with a stock motor.
Thanks for sharing memories of your SS.
Yeah I have a feeling that even with a "stock" brushed motor this thing will be insanely fast and a real handful. I may do just that (I have a vintage stock Associated motor that I believe came included in a vintage RC10 buggy kit) since I won't be running this car in any sort of competitive setting.
I raced these pan cars back in the early 90s and they were amazingly quick for the day.
Would love to see a video once you’ve got it running which ever way you decide to go.
Fun fact: The with foam tires in those days we used sunscreen as a tire softening compound.
For whatever reason some of its ingredients made the tyres much more grippy.
Sunscreen? I never would have thought of that. Thanks for sharing!
As for this project it's been on the back burner for a while. Vintage parts for these old RC10Ls are getting a bit difficult to find, and often they're expensive. But with winter on its way here I may dig this old project out and maybe do a follow-up video. But yeah once it's done I'll definitely make a running video.
They're fantastic. Used to run dirt oval in fort worth. Vertical fin full body length to run at speed. Such fun. Enjoy.
Awesome
I have an RC10L but do not know where to find parts for it. It was never used just sat on a shelf.
eBay is my go-to for parts for these vintage RC10L pan cars. You could also try visiting local hobby shops - particularly older ones - and see if they have any old stock of parts lying around. Sometimes you get lucky and find gold.
I have this same model In perfect condition running all vintage parts in it
That's something I keep leaning towards myself. Just get a bunch of vintage bits and put it together the way I would have back in the day.
Let's go brushless. Am getting one soon.
Am going to upgrade mine..
I actually have a bunch of vintage (new in box stuff) parts coming for this model. Don't want to give too much away because I want to do a follow-up video to thos, but given the values of these cars recently, I've decided to keep this one vintage. If I build a new pan car, like something from Xray RC, then I'll definitely go brushless.
@@RCRacingLegends I have a vintage McAllister mx pro pan car, i went full vintage electronics plenty fast enough for what its intended for. Cant wait to see what you have done with this.
Thanks Chris. This is one project which I've been gathering various parts for over the last few months. I've decided to keep this one pure vintage, so it'll be all Novak, Tekin, Associated, Reedy, Futaba... all the classics for this build. Still need to source wheels and tires, and a few other bits before I can get into it though (as well as get a few other builds off the bench too).
I have the ss version of this car and just purchased another regular road course version from eBay complete needs overhaul. I still race my ss version at my local track against modern day stuff and it holds it’s on for sure in fact in the 3 races I’ve ran it 2 I’ve came super close to winning but broke out late in the A-main Deff still a competitive car ! Realize almost all modern pan cars were designed off this original design and still to this day many parts for modern cars fit these. Only a few hard to find parts on them which hardly ever break.
The SS was the Super Speedway version of the RC10L, wasn't it? I think it was meant for like ultra high-speed running on dedicated velodrome type tracks if I remember correctly.
To be honest, my RC10L is still sitting in wait, while I turn my focus on some of my other RCs. I need to either complete a few or get them to a state where I can consider them "done" before I turn my attention to this vintage masterpiece.
Yep 1/12 scale on road carpet. We ran 4 cell mod or 6 cell stock 27 turn 24 digress timing
Cracking of foam tires are very common. Happens to my 1/8 onroads. I use them, but they tend to chunk off somewhat big bits of foam.
Yeah, I'm actually not surprised at all about the cracked tires. This is an old model; bought it used off eBay years ago. I have no idea what its history is or how it was stored, so frankly foam degradation is a given. Besides, I wouldn't really want to use the car with old foam anyway.
RC Racing Legends I’m am not familiar with 1/12 Pan cars but I am interested in getting one.
Regarding that rc10L setup. maybe you can use tamiya Esc and brushed motor meant for tamiya TT02. The spur gear being very old may have some form of dry rotting. It will be brittle to some extent, and it might not be able handle today’s brushless motors.
That’s coming from my experience of my old 1998 picco integra, which Is a 1/8 nitro onroad pan car. I got it pre owned on 2011 it has not ran for a decade according to the original owner. I also shelved the car and I got it to run on nitro in 2016, it worked fine until it’s clutch was worn. Converted it to brushles. And even with only 4s, it chewed almost all the original spur gears The previous owner provided. I had 3D printed an adaptor that fit aluminum spur gears meant for a D8 Truggy for it to handle brushless. Worked fine now, but shelved it again.
For me, its up to you how to you want to get it to work. But if you plan to bash it a bit hard. Replace the original spur gear and wheels. Put them in shelf as memorabilia. Parts compatibility with modern cars won’t be a problem if you have a caliper, 3D modeling skill, and a 3d printer or atleast someone who can 3D print for you.
You've given me a lot to think about here. If I do go brushed with this, I may try to stick with vintage parts, like a Novak ESC and Futaba receiver or something. Of course, if I do that, then this may end up just being a shelf queen and not really see much use. But, if I DO decide to use it, I know the performance of brushless will be insane, especially for something as light as this RC10L; I'm sure even a cheap brushless motor and ESC combo from Hobbywing would turn it into a real rocket. But I didn't realize the original spur gear might be compromise simply due to it's age. I'm glad you mentioned that! I'm fortunate - I have the capability to CAD up and print my own parts (I have a small print farm) so I may end up doing that.
@@RCRacingLegends I said about a year ago that you need to have the spurs 3D printed because the original may have dry rotted. I just obtained one. An alternative solution is that you can try using tamiya tt02s TBLE 02 recievers and a tamiya 540 brushed motors. Go partially vintage. Its ball diff will simply slide and wear down with too much power.
These cars were designed to be on-road banked oval, simulating Nascar. The direct drive differential gear was perfect for maintaining control at high speed in that left turn only type scenario.. They were a little too squirrely for flat on-road formula style tracks with lots of turns, though. These were commonly raced with modified motors at large velodrome tracks, which had pit stops to change batteries and tires, as well as performing repairs. If I remember right, they could easily push around 80+mph with a modified motor and a standard battery. The appropriate body for one of these would be a stock car. The nerf bars and extended bumper was to protect the suspension and wheels when crashing at high speed, but added a bit of weight. The battery pack was mounted on the left side of the pan (over the slots), and the speed controller and radio were mounted on the right. This would center the weight slightly left of center, which worked well keeping the car stable at high speed for banked oval and velodrome tracks.
I don't know if you can get replacement wheels for the rear that aren't foam (as the foam would require tire compound), but rubber would be better for driving when not on a track.
Anyways, seems like it may have been a fun project, I'll poke around your channel and see if what you eventually did
Thanks for the nostalgia!
This is one project that's been on the back burner for a while. I'm going to keep this one vintage and not upgrade it to modern brushless electronics. I have many of the items I need to finish it off, just a few bits left to find. You're right, old foam tires and wheels aren't easy to find. But this is one I'll be trying to get back into soon.
I use foam of so called slippers (open shoes). Works perfectly fine.
I just bought a vintage team associated pan car to do a vintage build up!
That's awesome!
I've pretty much made my mind up that I'm making mine into a proper vintage build. I think it deserves it. Now I just need to start hunting down the vintage parts I'll need to finish the build. Not sure if I want to completely disassemble this one to clean up all the parts the way I did with the RC10, but I may. I have a couple of R/C vehicles that are ahead of this one, so this will be a longer-term build I think.
@@RCRacingLegends same plan here!!! Long term build
I hear ya. Between the RC10, the Tamiya kits I have waiting for me to get into, and a couple of WLToys 1/28 cars I have, this RC10L is going on the back burner for a little while. But I'll keep my eyes on eBay for deals on some vintage bits. They come up often, but sometimes their prices are really rather ridiculous (I think I saw a vintage brushed Trinity 10turn 540 motor for $800 recently! That's a bit a lot much).
Did you ever build this up? If you didn’t set it up with a fully rebuildable brushed motor and modern electronics. You could do a smaller 2s battery and keep it light.
I'm still sitting on this project. Really haven't done much of anything with it since posting this video. I have collected a few vintage bits for it, like a brushed motor and vintage Novak ESC. But beyond that it's been on the back burner as I've had other projects taking priority. But I do appreciate the suggestions.
I think the car is still very competitive. The only problem is though, where to get T bars for it?
I completely agree. Pan car design hasn't really advanced all that much from these old RC10L cars with the exception of better batteries and electronics. I think with a good brushless system, shorty lipo pack, and a modern ESC, a 10L would run side by side with some of the latest pan cars.
As for the T-Bar, the only thing I could think of would be to make your own. Places like Send Cut Send could probably easily make replacements out of the appropriate thickness carbon fiber, and I doubt it would be very expensive.
2s saddle pack with a 17.5 or 21.5 keep the speed down so you don’t break it. I don’t know if modern foam wheels will mount to the stock hubs and spindles. Box art paint the body and enjoy as a fun runner or shelf queen.
Great suggestions. But if I go the shelf queen route, is there much point in putting in a battery pack?
Um the modern foam tires will work for with bsr contacts are a little to tall for this type of pan car and cut the new tires down to keep them from chunking
Build it up with vintage hop ups
That's a pretty awesome idea. Can't imagine vintage hop-ups for this old car will be easy to find though. Any specific suggestions for hop-ups you had in mind?
@@RCRacingLegends definitely keep it brushed with a trinity or novak motor and esc, or something from those days
Everyone new to pan cars a brushed 20 turn motor with nicad batteries is very fast on a carpet oval track running faster then the 17.5 brushless class and the class with the brushed motor is called Busch it's a spec class ment so guys can bring their old rc10 oval cars out and be competitive. The brushless 17.5 class runs low 5 second laps on oval and the brushed class run 4.1-3.8 on the snowbird oval. I get to race on the snowbird carpet every weekend and exact same size oval due to track owner buying the snowbirds carpet and all the walls for building the track layouts.and we do oval one week then road course following week. Brushed motors can be very fast
Any updates on it? I just pulled mine out And ordered some batteries for it
No real updates on this one yet. I've pretty much decided that I'll be going full vintage with this one. I do have a few parts I've collected, but there's still a few additional items I need in order to get started on it. I do have a couple of other projects ahead of this one though so it may be a little while longer before I can get into it.
BTW - what batteries did you order? Where did you order them from?
Go brushed got a 21 turn motor that's what I run in my rj speed legend and mybusch oval car currently and on the Busch pan car it is running 4.2 sec laps on snowbird size oval with nicad. A good brushed motor will be plenty of power for that thing especially since you are running foam tires on asphalt its gonna be hard to get it to stick on asphalt with a brushed motor is all you nees
I was thinking a brushed 10 turn or 12 turn triple. From my research (and from what I remember back in the day) that was the type of "hot" setups when these cars were raced competitively.
Yea 1p turns. Was your mod class basically wide open extremely fast oval pan cars with a cup body on them crazzy stuff
Just google information about your Vintage Team Associated RC10L pictures manuals and call hobby shops that has carpet track. You are not in a rush so do your homework before you decide on anything , but it will cost you more than what you paid for the car.
None of the local hobby shops near me have a carpet track, but I'm sure those close to me can make some suggestions. But to be honest, I've been looking online at the recent prices of these vintage Team Associated RC10L pan cars, and they've really gone up significantly the last little while. I think the nostalgia of the 80's has driven the price of these RC10Ls (and the RC10 buggy) upwards quite a bit. So that being said, I'm now really leaning towards just building/restoring this one to a vintage spec (brushed motor, old-school ESC, NiMh batteries, etc...) and just leaving it as a shelf queen. If prices continue to climb - and given their overall rarity - I'm not sure I would want to actually use it and risk damage, but instead just leave it as piece of history to look at.
www.banditshobbies.com/store/c300/HOBBY_BANDIT_USA_VINTAGE_R%2FC_PARTS_%26_MORE___.html This may help
I think this is a RC 10 LS
Is there some identifier or characteristic you've noticed that makes you think it's an RC10LS? You may very well be correct in your assessment.
damn, under $100. Cant touch that chassis. for close to that these days
Really? I haven't actually looked for quite some time. But to be honest I'm not surprised. The prices of any vintage Associated car in good shape seem to have climbed quite a bit the last while. I'm guessing rarity, coupled with nostalgia, is driving their collectability upward.
Man I thought u had put something together. Just talk. I have bought the same car same reason. Its a rocket for parking lot racing with a 9t brushless. Its an old car that's still a respectable monster.
Nope, not in this particular video. Sorry to disappoint. But if I had built anything I would have put the word "build" in the title (and probably the thumbnail). In this case, I was simply looking for advice on what to do with this RC10L.
As a project, it's still on the back burner as I have a few other RC projects that are in the works at the moment. Just been a bit too busy with regular life to record and post any new videos.
@@RCRacingLegends was thinking u was going to put one of the two or both on it. C how it goes. My suggest is put weights on the front. At a middle speed for me the front end gets really light. I have a lot of rear down force but I still can eat up a TC car any day I pull it out. Just work with it and put on the new tech. It works great. Don't go beyond 2s.
My bad. I meant don't go beyond 3s.
brushless
Any recommendations on which brand to go with?
@@RCRacingLegends depends on what you're doing with it. I had a chassis for a school competition and had to run a 17.5T or more setup. We had used chassis and the one that was wider handled like a dream and ran great with a cheap 17.5t motor and esc on amazon. www.amazon.com/SkyRC-Cheetah-4000KV-Sensored-Brushless/dp/B01M7YLGOX/ref=sr_1_31?dchild=1&keywords=17.5+sensored+brushless+motor+and+esc&qid=1598224669&sr=8-31
(same brand, looked the same but ours was 17.5T not the 8.5T that this one is)
it was very quiet too.
@@fastslash25 Thanks very much for the suggestion! I'm definitely going to check that motor out as an option.
I'm still on the fence as to what I'm going to do with this particular car. I have a number of different projects on the go right now, but this is one I'd like to dive into at some point in the near future.
There’s no question I have a traxxas brushless motor and ESC on my RC 10 L and it’s the fastest thing I’ve ever seen
What turn motor and which ESC?