Great video, I’m adding this because I hate to be the guys that asks a question and then doesn’t post how they solved the problem. I was having trouble getting the cylinder head off my 2015 jeep wrangler after undoing all the bolts in video. I just wanted to add this. For the jeep there is no motor mount to remove the alternator is bolted in this location you must remove those bolts and move the alternator out of the way. Next to the where the exhaust bolts on you have to remove the 2 bolts that hold that pull on, ac compressor or whatever it is. Lastly I wanted to add the head is really stuck on there, it didn’t move at all pulling and prying. I ended up using a ratcheting tie down between the hood mount and the back bracket that holds The cam on place. 3 clicks and POP done. Keep an eye out not to bend your hood bracket mine didn’t bend but just be careful. Thank you
you sure are a bad ass sir. can't thank you enough. trying to comment on all the vids (in case it matters for ads/revenue) also sub'd. this is my gf's van and proved to be a pain in my ass with the dreaded #6 cylinder misfire. ended up being the cam lobes are ground down from the rocker arm bearings failing. never seen that happen before on two separate cylinders, just exhaust side.
Really awesome job with the videos. I could not have done better. Even though nothing mechanical is a problem for me to fix, it still really helps to have a really well done set of instructional videos as a reference for the first time you take on a somewhat more involved repair.
Where the link on the time tensioner on the new head to see what need to be done with the miller tool 10200-1 with the new head before installing the head.
I have a town and country 2014 3.6 and I was doing a leak down test for the number 2 misfire cylinder and the leak is coming out of the exhaust side, do I need a new head or should I have the values reworked?? also the car has 98000 miles on it, so I think it's way out of warranty, thanks for all your youtube videos, really are details
If your catalyst heat shield nuts are all rusty you can get away with leaving it on so that you don’t have to replace it, or going without the shield isn’t a good idea either. After breaking it lose with a wrench I used a wobble 10 to further loosen the lower right catalyst bolt. Then I removed the bolt holding the silver cooling line to the front of the engine oil pan. That allowed me to pull forward on the cooling line and use a wrench to loosen the lower left catalyst bolt.
I'm taking the left head off my 2012 journey 3.6l. What happens if I just use a wrench to hold camshaft in place while taking the lobes off? I have everything marked but I don't have the special tools
hey man question for you ... to remove the cylinder head gasket on the right side the timing cover has to be remove or do you think i can get away just using the tool to compress the chain tensioner?? thank you those videos are awesome keep it up !!!!
I dropped the T-30 like you said not to do 🤦🏻♂️. Is there any chance it fell down to the oil pan? Or do I have to remove the timing cover to get it? I have a 2012 Dodge Charger so the engine is set up a little different. Thanks
i have 2013 grand caravan. i have check engine light on show code #2 cylinder misfire i take to the shop he change coil pack and spark plug. but the light still on. i take to dealer they want me replace engine cylinder head. any way you can help me what to do to solve problem. thank
I have a 2014 Crysler 200 with the 3.6 at my shop and need to change the right intake cam. Do you have a video showing how you locked the chain tensioner in place before disassembly?
Sorry about the delay. I currently dont have any videos on that. I do wont to film that in the future....just have to find the time. Thanks for asking and sorry again about the delay.
@@MotorCityMechanic I was able to do this job no problem. The key is locking the tensioner and chain in place (long 1/4 drive exstension) before cam removal. Good videos by the way keep up the good work.
Mine is a '15 Wrangler. I have all of the bolts off as described, but the head will not budge. I tried a pry bar in the intake port, tapping one of the timing chain bolts (partially installed) with a hammer, even lifting it off with a porta winch... It the three bond that strong? Any advice is appreciated!
Never mind I figured it out. Was missing the 2 bolts that hold the pully to the left of the exhaust. Used a ratcheting tie down from the cam bracket to the hood bracket and 3 clicks poped right off
Its going to take some time. I wonder if it made its way down to the oil pan....that might be a great place to start to see if its laying in the bottom instead of taking the front of the engine and apart.
I have this project coming up changing the head gasket left side of my Dodge Charger 2012 3.6 and I was just wondering would I have to remove my engine mount in order to remove the head? Thank you
On these I have had to use a jack handle on a breaker bar before and sometimes just a long breaker bar. I do have a Milwaukee impact that has somewhere around 1500ft/lbs as well that I grab from time to time. None the less its tight as you already know. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
@@MotorCityMechanic you are the man!!!! I did this work THANKS TO YOU!!!! IF I HAVE MECHANIC QUESTIONS CAN YOU HELP ME IS IT VIA EMAIL. N ARE YOU LIKE PAYPAL FEE. PLEASE LET ME KNOW
I KNOW THAT THIS VIDEO WAS A WHILE BACK BUT I HAVE A 2011 VW ROUTAN WITH THE SAME ENGINE. I HAD TO CHANGE THE SERPENTINE BELT BECAUSE IT BROKE AND WHILE I DID THAT I FIGURED THAT I WOULD FLUSH THE RADIATOR, INSTALL A NEW THERMOSTAT, AND CHANGE THE OIL AS WELL. NOW I HAVE A LEAK SOMEWHERE. IT'S CONSTANTLY OVERHEATING AND LOSING COOLANT ( THE STEAM WHEN I COME TO A STOP AFTER DRIVING A SHORT DISTANCE IS THERE TOO). I ONLY TOOK THE TOP PASSENGER RADIATOR HOSE OFF AND THE LOWER PASSENGER HOSE OFF (THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING TOO) I CANT SEE THE LEAK AT ALL WHILE IT'S RUNNING. AND NOW WHEN I DRIVE THE BELTS SQUEAKING. WHAT DID I DO??? COULD IT BE AN IMPROPER BELT TENSION, STOPING THE WATER PUMP FROM FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY? COULD THAT BE THE SQUEAKING? WHY WOULD I BE LOSING COOLANT IF THERE'S NO LEAK BUT AN IMPROPER TIGHTENING OF THE SERPENTINE BELT CAUSING THE WATER PUMP TO NOT SPIN FAST ENOUGH NOT TIGHTENING THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING ENOUGH? IM NOT SURE. PLEASE HELP. I KNOW A BIT ABOUT CARS AND HOW THEY WORK BUT THIS IS BEYOND MY EXPERTISE.
I checked both top and bottom radiator hoses again and they are both secure with no holes or rips in them. why would it suddenly spring a leak? and WHERE? thanks for taking the time to read this man, I REALLY appreciate it and could use the help.
I need to get the right side head off of a 2014 Charger with the Pentastar. Do you know of this shortcut applies to that side as well? Looks like they're constructed fairly similar.
It doesn’t, only the left bank, timing cover has to come off on the right bank, it has something to do with the way the tensioner is set up, if you scroll through the comments this questions been asked and his answer was no short cut.. I don’t think it’s that far down, hope this helps.
Unfortunately no.....the tensioner and guide mount is different so you will need to remove the front timing cover inorder to remove it. Wish it was that easy but its not. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
I'm doing this on a JK and I'm having the same problem. All 8 head bolts out and all 8 timing cover bots out and the head won't budge. The coolant is starting to drip from the back of the head. Did you have any luck and if so, what did you figure out? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I don't want to break anything.
@@don1249 yea it took me a while of prying and tapping. Just be sure you have every bolt removed from he timing cover area. They say you can't get the passenger side head off without removing the timing cover. But I managed to get mine off. Just had to get creative with the torx head screw. Similar to the drivers side.
@@09fatbobmike I'm positive I got all of the necessary bolts out because I checked all of the bolt hole locations on the new head. Thanks for the quick reply. I'll keep prying and tapping!
The head on this engine was removed due to a burnt exhaust valve. It was common on some older 3.6 engines and some had the warranty extended to cover the issue. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe!
Great video, I’m adding this because I hate to be the guys that asks a question and then doesn’t post how they solved the problem.
I was having trouble getting the cylinder head off my 2015 jeep wrangler after undoing all the bolts in video. I just wanted to add this.
For the jeep there is no motor mount to remove the alternator is bolted in this location you must remove those bolts and move the alternator out of the way.
Next to the where the exhaust bolts on you have to remove the 2 bolts that hold that pull on, ac compressor or whatever it is.
Lastly I wanted to add the head is really stuck on there, it didn’t move at all pulling and prying. I ended up using a ratcheting tie down between the hood mount and the back bracket that holds
The cam on place. 3 clicks and POP done. Keep an eye out not to bend your hood bracket mine didn’t bend but just be careful.
Thank you
Thanks for sharing. I was able to use this method on my 2018 Pacifica but the T-30 bolt was almost too long to get out of the way.
Life saver with that T30 wrench idea thanks
you sure are a bad ass sir. can't thank you enough. trying to comment on all the vids (in case it matters for ads/revenue) also sub'd. this is my gf's van and proved to be a pain in my ass with the dreaded #6 cylinder misfire. ended up being the cam lobes are ground down from the rocker arm bearings failing. never seen that happen before on two separate cylinders, just exhaust side.
Thank you sir
Really awesome job with the videos. I could not have done better. Even though nothing mechanical is a problem for me to fix, it still really helps to have a really well done set of instructional videos as a reference for the first time you take on a somewhat more involved repair.
Man that system of a down in the background 👌
Where the link on the time tensioner on the new head to see what need to be done with the miller tool 10200-1 with the new head before installing the head.
Thank you for making these videos!!!
Your welcome.....sorry it was a long series but it had alot of info and needed to be that long. Thanks again.
I have a town and country 2014 3.6 and I was doing a leak down test for the number 2 misfire cylinder and the leak is coming out of the exhaust side,
do I need a new head or should I have the values reworked?? also the car has 98000 miles on it, so I think it's way out of warranty, thanks for all your youtube videos, really are details
If your catalyst heat shield nuts are all rusty you can get away with leaving it on so that you don’t have to replace it, or going without the shield isn’t a good idea either.
After breaking it lose with a wrench I used a wobble 10 to further loosen the lower right catalyst bolt. Then I removed the bolt holding the silver cooling line to the front of the engine oil pan. That allowed me to pull forward on the cooling line and use a wrench to loosen the lower left catalyst bolt.
It is awesome job thanks sir. I couldn't remove cylinder head bolts. I used impact gun. But still I couldn't. What should I do sir. Thanks
Awesome job as usual. This method without removing timing cover applicable for the right side?
Unfortunately you have to remove the timing cover for the right side head. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
I'm taking the left head off my 2012 journey 3.6l. What happens if I just use a wrench to hold camshaft in place while taking the lobes off? I have everything marked but I don't have the special tools
hey man question for you ... to remove the cylinder head gasket on the right side the timing cover has to be remove or do you think i can get away just using the tool to compress the chain tensioner?? thank you those videos are awesome keep it up !!!!
I dropped the T-30 like you said not to do 🤦🏻♂️. Is there any chance it fell down to the oil pan? Or do I have to remove the timing cover to get it? I have a 2012 Dodge Charger so the engine is set up a little different. Thanks
I have this same job coming up on my 2017 dodge grand caravan, where would you recommend I get the head from?
i have 2013 grand caravan. i have check engine light on show code #2 cylinder misfire i take to the shop he change coil pack and spark plug. but the light still on. i take to dealer they want me replace engine cylinder head. any way you can help me what to do to solve problem. thank
Can you add a link to find the 3 bond adhesive that you are suggesting to install.
I have a 2014 Crysler 200 with the 3.6 at my shop and need to change the right intake cam. Do you have a video showing how you locked the chain tensioner in place before disassembly?
Sorry about the delay. I currently dont have any videos on that. I do wont to film that in the future....just have to find the time. Thanks for asking and sorry again about the delay.
@@MotorCityMechanic I was able to do this job no problem. The key is locking the tensioner and chain in place (long 1/4 drive exstension) before cam removal. Good videos by the way keep up the good work.
Mine is a '15 Wrangler. I have all of the bolts off as described, but the head will not budge. I tried a pry bar in the intake port, tapping one of the timing chain bolts (partially installed) with a hammer, even lifting it off with a porta winch... It the three bond that strong? Any advice is appreciated!
What did you end up doing? I’m doing my 15 wrangler have all the bolts taken off can’t get this thing to budge. What did you end up doing?
Never mind I figured it out. Was missing the 2 bolts that hold the pully to the left of the exhaust.
Used a ratcheting tie down from the cam bracket to the hood bracket and 3 clicks poped right off
While I was inspecting the rocker arms, I dropped something in the timing chain area. How hard is it remove the timing chain cover?
Its going to take some time. I wonder if it made its way down to the oil pan....that might be a great place to start to see if its laying in the bottom instead of taking the front of the engine and apart.
I have this project coming up changing the head gasket left side of my Dodge Charger 2012 3.6 and I was just wondering would I have to remove my engine mount in order to remove the head?
Thank you
I'm only guessing here that the engine mount applies to transversely mounted engines.
You got to tell me what impact gun you used to take head bolts out. Bolts are so incredibly tight!!! Please tell me how you done it I appreciated.
On these I have had to use a jack handle on a breaker bar before and sometimes just a long breaker bar. I do have a Milwaukee impact that has somewhere around 1500ft/lbs as well that I grab from time to time. None the less its tight as you already know. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
@@MotorCityMechanic you are the man!!!! I did this work THANKS TO YOU!!!! IF I HAVE MECHANIC QUESTIONS CAN YOU HELP ME IS IT VIA EMAIL. N ARE YOU LIKE PAYPAL FEE. PLEASE LET ME KNOW
I KNOW THAT THIS VIDEO WAS A WHILE BACK BUT I HAVE A 2011 VW ROUTAN WITH THE SAME ENGINE. I HAD TO CHANGE THE SERPENTINE BELT BECAUSE IT BROKE AND WHILE I DID THAT I FIGURED THAT I WOULD FLUSH THE RADIATOR, INSTALL A NEW THERMOSTAT, AND CHANGE THE OIL AS WELL. NOW I HAVE A LEAK SOMEWHERE. IT'S CONSTANTLY OVERHEATING AND LOSING COOLANT ( THE STEAM WHEN I COME TO A STOP AFTER DRIVING A SHORT DISTANCE IS THERE TOO). I ONLY TOOK THE TOP PASSENGER RADIATOR HOSE OFF AND THE LOWER PASSENGER HOSE OFF (THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING TOO) I CANT SEE THE LEAK AT ALL WHILE IT'S RUNNING. AND NOW WHEN I DRIVE THE BELTS SQUEAKING. WHAT DID I DO??? COULD IT BE AN IMPROPER BELT TENSION, STOPING THE WATER PUMP FROM FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY? COULD THAT BE THE SQUEAKING? WHY WOULD I BE LOSING COOLANT IF THERE'S NO LEAK BUT AN IMPROPER TIGHTENING OF THE SERPENTINE BELT CAUSING THE WATER PUMP TO NOT SPIN FAST ENOUGH NOT TIGHTENING THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING ENOUGH? IM NOT SURE. PLEASE HELP. I KNOW A BIT ABOUT CARS AND HOW THEY WORK BUT THIS IS BEYOND MY EXPERTISE.
I checked both top and bottom radiator hoses again and they are both secure with no holes or rips in them. why would it suddenly spring a leak? and WHERE? thanks for taking the time to read this man, I REALLY appreciate it and could use the help.
I have a 2016 dodge grand caravan any videos on taken off the starter
None as of yet. I will certainly keep it in mind as a future video. Make sure to subscribe
What is that aluminum block in the engine valley.
That would be the engine oil cooler bolted to the oil filter housing.
I need to get the right side head off of a 2014 Charger with the Pentastar. Do you know of this shortcut applies to that side as well? Looks like they're constructed fairly similar.
It doesn’t, only the left bank, timing cover has to come off on the right bank, it has something to do with the way the tensioner is set up, if you scroll through the comments this questions been asked and his answer was no short cut.. I don’t think it’s that far down, hope this helps.
How do you remove the right side?
Can u do the same with the right head?
Unfortunately no.....the tensioner and guide mount is different so you will need to remove the front timing cover inorder to remove it. Wish it was that easy but its not. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
I got everything off and my head won't come up all the way. I got it loose some. Enough to wiggle it and drain the coolant. Any suggestions
I'm doing this on a JK and I'm having the same problem. All 8 head bolts out and all 8 timing cover bots out and the head won't budge. The coolant is starting to drip from the back of the head. Did you have any luck and if so, what did you figure out? Any help would be greatly appreciated! I don't want to break anything.
@@don1249 yea it took me a while of prying and tapping. Just be sure you have every bolt removed from he timing cover area. They say you can't get the passenger side head off without removing the timing cover. But I managed to get mine off. Just had to get creative with the torx head screw. Similar to the drivers side.
@@09fatbobmike I'm positive I got all of the necessary bolts out because I checked all of the bolt hole locations on the new head. Thanks for the quick reply. I'll keep prying and tapping!
@@don1249 yea mine was stuck very well. I was using an Axe handle and pry bar to pry on it.
I have to do all that just to replace head gasket !?!!!??
Why did you pull the Head?
The head on this engine was removed due to a burnt exhaust valve. It was common on some older 3.6 engines and some had the warranty extended to cover the issue. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe!
5.3L
Its all fun and games until you break the guide
Very true.....doesnt take much when taking the head off for that to happen.
What Is the guide?
gotta do a left bank head on a promaster. /sigh