This happened on my 2002 Limited about a year ago I had the same issue. The light was flickering so I took this little piece out and just threw it away. Sprayed the rest of the switch with some brake cleaner just to get all the grime out of it and it’s still working today. This man has a lot of great do it yourself tips. These honest mechanics are a dying breed. God bless you sir.
My 2004 limited is having that issue. But for some reason mine is so hard to get to that I had to remove the fuse box by the battery and a bolt out of the side of the block, which held a metal bar that wires were connected to. I notice all these videos can see theirs fairly easy. You cannot see mine except for the wire. Neither the 27mm or 1&1/16 in worked. They fit but not well enough. I need like a 1&1/32 in. This is rediculous. Even if I had one, I cant get a wrench in there much less over it. To say its not difficult is a flat lie
There was about 41/2 minutes of information, but it was so entertaining that I had to watch the whole thing. My neighbor has a 07 pt, and she has questions every once in a while, so I subscribed here. You sound knowledgeable, and you try to get the point across so hard it's fun to watch. Good job. It's appreciated. Thanks.
Dude I have had this problem on my PT Cruiser for years but only in the summer. I rebuilt the engine, has 310,000 km on it, and I changed the oil pressure unit and I still have this problem and the oil pump is fine so you just fixed my car! Many other PT owners have the same problem, one guy I read rebuilt his engine and added an oil cooler just to fix this one issue. Thanks👍
Your explanation makes so much sense! I have been seeing 'thousands' of videos about the problem, but no explanations, nor do any say anything about hooking up a pressure gauge to verify the problem.
I have my mechanic coming out today to try this. Oil light has been on since I got it, would go on and off…. Had trans rebuilt.. started giving code P0700 with P0522 but the oil pressure sensor was something I had changed already. I felt like my car needed to “breathe” I kept saying that. 😂😂😂 I don’t think I was using the correct terminology but I feel like its was muffled somewhere. I love your videos…not ready to give up my PT.. this is the car my dad seen me purchase w my own money before he passed. 🕊️ miles are low. And I love the interior. Just don’t like the bad rep they have.
THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH!!! You've saved my sanity. 🤣 There was a good bit of oil buildup when hubby pulled the "bullet" out. We just recently got an pull change so we were wondering what the problem was. Thanks again!
Damn man i thank you soso much i had this problem for years and the workshop changed everything. The oil seals, oil pan oil sensor but ntohing worked and i payed so much money. And in the end it only was a little plastic pen. You are the best men.
You're awesome! Thank you for sharing you gifted knowledge. You saved me alot of unnecessary money. I subscribed to your channel, keep 'em coming! Thanks for all the PT Cruiser videos especially!
Had to smog mine in CA , failed due to my drive cycle to pass but oil light popped up an lost $60.00 on my smog certificate. Took your advice pulled pin , did my drive cycle OIL LIGHT never came on vehicle was ready and PASSED! with no indication of oil pressure problem listed on smog check, so thank you! It usually only came on when the car was hot That is why you're reason makes it 100% accurate. An thank you for suggesting replacing the sensor just in case there is any oil pressure issue this makes it a perfect preventive maintenance suggestion. Thnxs Again!
I was impressed by your unique presentation and I respect yours years of car experience with the Pt Cruiser. I subscribed to your channel with expectations of hearing and learning more about (the trick of the trade).
AWESOME TIP.. THANK YOU... Too bad there aren't more honest mechanics around. I'm having problems with a oil pressure sensor in my 2007 H3 Hummer now. GOD BLESS & THANK YOU
Dude! Great vid. I don't have a PT cruiser. Was looking for info on a kia but watched this anyway. A lot good info here. I like your teaching style. Haha. subbed
I've had the flicker in my 2001 since I bought it. I'm a second owner. I've heard that it was a common issue and as long as my oil was good I disregarded it. My grandson is using the car now. Recently I replaced the valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket, as well as brakes suspension and steering. Doing the work Myself I didn't mind spending the money for parts, knowing they are all new now and at a fraction of just a few new car payments. My grandson gets crazy about the light flickering and thinks it's gonna burn up. I told him that we shouldn't be leaking oil now and as long as he checks and it's good, don't worry. I can't wait to try this fix and get rid of the issue and my grandson worrying about it.
This is excellent! I have this exact problem with my 2002 Chrysler Concorde Lxi with the 3.5. Fortunately that sending unit is easy to get to from below. Thank you!
I DID IT! I replaced my wiper switch and my oil sending unit myself! Thank you for your help! One question though, is the oil pressure "sensor" and the oil pressure "sending unit" the exact same thing?
Hey buddy very easy ro understand and all mechanics should be as intuned to the customer or owner of a vehicle needing repair. I wanted to ask you about my magnum se 2.7l. Over the holidays it had been leaking coolant and i took it into a different shop then normal. I was not comfortable with it but needed it for holiday. Car went in for diagnostic. Included was water pump, tensioner timing cover gasket valve cover gasket or plenum gasket thermastat and housing in addition to tune up and oil change with filter this was original verbal estimate of 1100 With additional request of oil change w filter tunewith plugs and wires if needed. He requested car be left dor at least 3 days. I said 3 days thats alot of time. So he said 2 days byt i lije to say 3 in case because we need to check timing chain guides because its all in same area. So i Dropped car aftrr talking with mechanic because he seemed knowledgable regarding this particular model engine. I discussed what i wanted as far as qualit u in a part and didnt nrmally buy from oreillys for quality OEM parts are the way to go for length of work involved and money i spent and he said oh no that would be cery expensive but it was my choice as a customer and owner. At any rate i requested also old parts be put back in my car as well as new boxes. second day i dropped by to check in after calling regarding abilit to purchase kits for thermistaf n housing as well as water pump kit to save me money and knock out other areas as mileage was at that inteval I also wanted my estimate an work order as i only signed a form for them to get started. Over phone he basically revealed it was thermistate chanfinf order to only thermistate n housing but 500.00 i asked what was included to be so high he quoted spark plugs being 9@ a new reservor etc erc but still didt gve e a estimate on visiting i noticed my engne had oil buildt up like a coating and starting to accumulate. Long story short my car ran good ever any check egbe light no dash warning lights ever and changed oil with only a number 5 plug misfire early on when i bought it in 2021. On 2nd day i was told it was warer pump too so he had t do the work order given frst of 1100. After seeing car on 3rd day clse ro mid afternon i got frusrrated knowing i was nt going t get it eve folwing day. An still only got an estimare with parts list no numbers for parts like requested or details on how other related parts looked he assured me it would be ready but it was a big job. Low n behold 3 rd day i gor call it was ready and he was going to test drive it. Later he callex said he wanted me my ghy t cone tommorrow to dscuss a problem he ad with car i was instantly anxety riden and said just tel me whats gong on with car. He said ge was driving it and it made no noise but oil light came on instantly an it shut off. He said he tried it again check engne lighr was om and it started died on spot i said dnt keep tryibg to start it you wil damage it. He said be patiebt an give him tinw to get it back to shop and wlll call his brother. He called said he was bacm at shop and hes sure engine went. I was upser an around corner an was coming over. He said im not at shop. I said y just said you were. Following day we needed a car estimaes exchanged but was ignired on requests to look under hood. Evertually keaving witb owners newer subaru instead of rental with undserstanding he would take care of car becuz it was in his posession when engine failed. Denied any stored codes at any point especially after engine blew. After xmas he called me to go over hm finding an engine i didnt think to ask what kind of warrenty but ended up being 90 day however upon returning vehicle paying 1200 no info written where purchased from and warrenty notes written in as 90 days from time he purchased nit 11 days later when i got to drive home with my car. It overheated on hill coming home 2 weeks later went back inro shp after oem thermistate was ordered from dealer . Not to mention off brand he went for faled n thermistate and water pump was same brand too. Each time my cars went int shop i find thngs ike my horn hangng damaging radiator and il cooling delicate fins liise or missing bolts an lush oins as well as loose ground wires too. Mostly id like to know yr thougts and ask why would my engne oil dipstick be so tightly fitted under housing tube from airr filter housing making it crunced under it and the next tine it be okay centered where it shoud be and last time hise from l shapex boot off side of air filter housing so close and tightly above oil filler cap i cant take it off unless hose comez off. Incidently my other engine he had us look at to show difference ibside an my old engine had metal shavingz kf good size at bottom and sparky shavngs everywhere and still denies seeing any codes or hearinv any noise and air flter so coated with coolant and never did they think to change.
I sure did. Don't have a PT but a Dodge. I think I can still get some good info. I can tell you have a lot of experience and explain things even novices like me can get.
So glad I found this video and was introduced to your channel. My question is do you believe I could be having the same issue with my 2008 Dodge Caliber? Not sure if they will notify me if you reply to my question so I'll definitely be checking back with you!!! Damn, I wish I had found your channel before selling my 08 PT, I loved that car but it definitely has a lot of problems your knowledge could have helped me on
Whats going on Kent. If this Caliber use the same connector as that in the video then yes, this would apply. A new updated sending unit and the connector plug removed should do it. Thanks for watching
Well, well, maybe my 2006 Hyundai Elantra SX, has same problem, that pesky flickering oil light at hot idle. I replace, oil sender unit, oil pump, and big end bearing shells and main bearing shells, and crankshaft thrust washers. Also all Conrod and main bearing cap bolts. That pesky flickering oil light at hot idle, still lingers. Well I will check the oil sender connector like here to see if it can breathe. Great share! 👍
Thanks a lot for the info I've replaced the unit and removed the pen as adviced now oil light is gone and the car runs as usual, However there's a bit of extra noise kind of like compressed air blowing while the car is running, should I worry about it or just ignore it?
Thank you for making the video. It's been a week, and the oil sending unit warning light has yet to come on. I did remove the plug/spike and replaced it with a piece of tubing from a can of brake cleaner I had. I also found oil running down the side of the engine and found another video showing that I needed to replace the PVC valve and hose, which solved all my issues. It's crazy that a hose will stretch and weaken to the point of leaking, and there are no clamps on the OEM; poor design. The replacement of the oil sending unit wasn't hard, but it was a pain to reach it. Most of it is by feeling for it and not seeing the part. No more warning lights and no more leaks.
Man I just went out side to check the van to see a leak on some card board I left this morning. Minimum. Now looking at it overhead . 1. Found burn exposed wire leading down towards the sensor 2. Three wires hanging I turned the van on and the lights was going off oil light and chime . So I opened the window and started wiggling the wires and checking every time same thing chime and lights. Then I looked and the plastic cord protector on the bunch of cables and it was a lil piece disconnected . Man I added that piece to the last wiggling and wellll………. God is goooooooood cuz the lights went out and I don’t have to get under there before work . I bought the piece and was gonna order a oil pan and gasket now I just gotta go to the 1.25 plus tax store and get some black tape . Everyone God is great u take one step he’ll match each time . Moral of the story be a lil proactive if you don’t have the cash . Pray on it research and try . I did and loook ant the outcome
Mr PT. I have an oil leak that is so bad you lose about a qt every 5 miles I have replaced the cam sensor seal and the valve cover gasket no more issues there. you would think that losing that much oil you'd see it. it appears to be somewhere on the passenger side rear of the motor. does this engine have an external oil pump or could it be a crank seal I have learned a lot about this car from you videos. im hoping you have some advice' Thanks
When I went to pull it out it was so old that only the square head and a small piece of the shaft came out, the rest of the shaft is still in there. So I still got that annoying bing from the oil light. Question: if it is just causing my oil light to come on periodically bing, can I drive it until I can figure out how to get the rest of that shaft out of there. It is an extremely difficult position to reach and I'm not looking forward to doing it again. Thank you so much for this video. Looking forward to your answer.
Removing the diaphragm doesn’t negate the sensor’s ability to detect proper pressures? If the oil pressure actually drops, is it still going to register with an oil pressure light?
You seem like the right guy to ask. My sons 2002 Nissan Xterra V6. He got it to start it to go to school and oil pressure light was on. The next day I pulled it into the garage no funny noises oil level is clean and where it should be got a new sending unit from AutoZone took the old unit out which looked to be original with the vehicle put the new one and hooked it back up turn the car back on oil light is still on. But it is very dim on the dashboard not like when I turn on the accessory mode it’s very bright. I checked the connector make sure it was all clean it was no oil residue on it. I did a multi meter test on the old unit and there was no continuity between the one pin at the top and the body of the unit. I tested another new switch that I purchased separately and that one has continuity. I have not had a chance to check the one that I installed from AutoZone yet. Any thoughts I feel like it’s something simple that I missing. But my test confirm that the old switch was bad but after I installed the new one from AutoZone it still did not turn the light off
Does Ford have the little tab also that needs throwing away? Thanks for sharing this man. My 2000 Ford Windstar light comes on sometimes while sitting in line at the bank or restaurants.
Thank you for the video. I wonder if that will be same issue for other car makes. I have a jeep compass. It was running fine 3 days ago. I knew it was low on antifreeze, I added it but found oil leaking in the top gasket after driving the car for 20 min, that's when light goes on. Any suggestions Thanks.
Is it possible to simply pull that tab and put it back on the old one? For some reason mine is barely able to be touched, and i took out way more stuff than the air box. I had to move harnesses, hoses, the fuse box, and a bolt that on the block that also held a metal bar. Still cant get to it
As a point of clarification, the design flaw is in the sensor itself not the connector plug. The plug keeps water out of the connection as intended. The sensor gets old and leaks oil into the connection causing false readings. Obviously you dont care abour water intrusion in a connection that gets oiled constantly.
There has never been a problem with water or moisture getting into this connector after it has been manipulated. You simply thinking to hard dude. And the flaw was in fact the connector. If you dont know the history of this problem why are you speaking on it. There was in fact a TSB with instructions to do just what Im suggesting in the video. Replacing the sensor alone will not solve problem.
@@OnlineMechanicTips These connections are called weather packs. This was a two wire pack but only one wire was needed, so they went with the cheapest solution and stuck a plug in the empty slot to maintain the weather packs water tightness. The only reason water intrusion isn't a problem here is because the sensor leaks oil which prevents corrosion. The idea that an electrical connections needs to breath is obsurd unless there is another issue. Replacing the sensor alone will fix the issue temporarily (could be years) until it leaks again. But a properly designed sensor would solve the problem forever. Chrystler, clearly didn't want to redesign a leak proof sensor so they went with the cheapest solution and put out the TSB.
@@_RiseAgainst Look dude customers dont care about any of this you saying. They just want they car fix. Removing that plug allow any potential pressure in that connector to vent out and simply be released. Pressure inside that connector created by even a new sensor would cause the oil light to flicker and even stay on. You think to hard without thinking dude, its not that serious. Just pull the plug and replace the sensor and the problems solved. Read the comments
@@OnlineMechanicTips customers aren't on RUclips reading comments. And I never said not to do this fix. But I am correct that the sensor is the original problem. And since we are calling each other out for no reason, the pressure inside the connection is not causing a the light to flicker. The change in resistance, because of the oil, is causing the false readings. Connections cannot read pressure, only the other end of the sensor can. BTW I was never disagreeing with you on my original comment. If your ego can't handle a slight clarification, maybe stay away from the comment section.
@_RiseAgainst The comment section the most important part of the video dude, now why would i stay away from all this fun?. And you just described in a more worded technical way what I meant by the pressure build up. Comment readers like for us content creators to keep it simple. I read comments and simply reply accordingly dude. Your original comment sounded as if simply replacing the sensor would fix the problem. I simply dis agreed and advised to also manipulate the connector. Now if a car maker happen to suggest the very same thing it has to be ok. You worried about moisture and all that's not a concern.
Thank you very informative video yes I was quoted $260 , $100 for pile pressure test. $160 for a oil pressure sensor replacement. Its a $15 part they charge $60. Did you shoot this video in selfish mode? Ha ha everything looks backwards on the pt cruiser engine.
What would happen if I just remove the bullet? Like if I don’t replace the sensor and just pull the bullet? Just wondering because my light has been coming on but I want to know exactly what the problem is. Would just removing the bullet cause any problems since I didn’t replace the sensor too?
Great video. Thanks for all the info and tips. Your lucky we're not neighbors, you would have 2 more PT's to work on or "help" with. My mom's + mine. Lol. I did the next best thing n subscribed. Thanks again. Have a good one.
Hello, pretty much any model that has a pin blockin the o2 flow. But yes, mostly Chrysler/Dodge. Thanks for watching, please thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel, thanks
EVERYTIME I turn my pt on the oil light stays on. I have to turn the car off and turn it back on and the light goes off. Do you think this same thing would solve the issue? I have checked and the oil level is correct.
@@OnlineMechanicTipssame issue here. When it’s on, it stays on, when it’s off, it stays off. 50/50 if it will be on or off when I start it. Pulled the plug out of the molle connector: no change… car runs great regardless and oil pressure and level is fine. Already replaced the OPSU a couple of times before: I’m starting to think this is a field flash issue with the ECU or something in the 2004
I am dealing with this right now and I feel like crying. The shop just replaced the oil pressure sensor, but the message and the light still come on. "Oil pressure low STOP ENGINE". This is on a 2012 Captiva. I can't do what you are saying myself because supposedly you have to remove the alternator on this car to get to the oil pressure sensor. I will have to take it to the dealership and spend more money to solve this problem. I have already spent $2300.00 in the last month on this vehicle.
Question, i know its a long time since this video... if you remove this bullet, will the oil pressure sensor still work when you actual have issue with the oil pump ?
@@OnlineMechanicTips Great, i haven't replaced the sensor because i ordered it and im waiting for the part to arrive. Till then im not willing to drive with the chime on 😂 I took off the bullet today without adding a straw and immediately the light went off. I am a mechanic my self as well but i never had to deal with Dodge/Chrysler oil pressure/oil pump issues. They are very rare here in Finland. So you shared your much appreciated knowledge to a fellow mechanic. Keep up the good work and stay safe!🙏
I just rebuilt a 2003 neon R/T and i get this oil light pop on at idle. I pop the oil cap and rev the engine and i see oil flying all over the place and the engine is dead quiet. Im going to try this trick and if it works i owe you a beer.
With what you said Would it be the same for a 2007 pt I tried replacing it this morning it was really difficult to get to locate and I had no success removing that connector
Can't get the connector off. Pushed the red tab both directions but it won't budge. Now this is in awkward position and can only use one hand. Any suggestions? Right now I'm stumped. 🤔
So I have a 2001 dodge intrepid with 2.7l it has flickered like mentioned, I changed the sensor a while back I took it to the shop due to me not being able to do it after my surgery my mechanic friend put a guage on it and it was were it was supposed to be he also said it was lower then most cars but I guess at idle it has low psi, does that sound right? After having it replaced it started doing it again I read to use synthetic oil due to poor design of engine. After a while it went off and a year or so went by back to it again today if I pull that plug out will the sensor still work as it should if there's a problem? Can I just pull the plug or do I need to put that pcs in there? Thanks for your time thumbs up and subscribed to your channel 👍
Also I have taken very good care of this car I just hit 55000 miles and change oil every 2500 miles I know thats overkill but again I want this car to last and know about engine sludge and poor oil journals in the engine
Hey bud..I been getting away with simply replacing the sensor and removing the plug no it could breath..you will not hurt anything by doing that..thanks for watching.
Thank you very much for your "inside info" man lol nice to know what's really up. I bought a new sensor for $50 funny how a mechanic would charge over 300 for the part and installation. That's robbery lol. 👍👍
I just bought a 2008 Dodge Caliber and the oil light would chime and light up whenever I start up the car and come to a stop. It is annoying to hear the chime every time the oil light came on. I now know what to do to fix this problem.
Yo JT please tell me this removing of that tab from the oil pressure connector will work on my Jeep 2007 Patriot? That oil like flickering is driving me crazy.
@@OnlineMechanicTips Hey thank you for responding to me. So, I bought a new oil pressure sensor on Amazon for like 12 bucks. I was going to replace it myself, but it is tough to get to. I found a pretty honest repair shop near me and they will replace it for me for 75 bucks. I am good with that. You think it will be OK if I tell them to remove the plug on the connector?
Oh shit I'm going to have to take off the throttle body to get to it I think. I tried it yesterday and the red part of the connector broke off. Not sure how I'm going to get it off now
Did watch another one and obviously do it from the bottom and pressure from oil pressure obviously--but removing the pin thing??? Why would it not leak oil then???? Thanks
it takes a blk man to tell another blk man how to fix his problem lol. been up all night trying to find my problem on youtube. now at 7 am eastern time i finally get a blk man on his shit . thank u so much . went through a oil change and 5 extra qt. and the light kept coming on. and i only had the van for a month. now i am confident enough to get under the van and try this fix .although i think its could be the wire . but man God bless you brother cuz i heard country music politcal commentaries all type of things in ppl videos that dragged on but the same fix smh your video was funny and straight to the point so i am subcribing , plz do vidoes on the caliber and town and country early years if you ever get to work on them
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
This happened on my 2002 Limited about a year ago I had the same issue. The light was flickering so I took this little piece out and just threw it away. Sprayed the rest of the switch with some brake cleaner just to get all the grime out of it and it’s still working today. This man has a lot of great do it yourself tips. These honest mechanics are a dying breed. God bless you sir.
My 2004 limited is having that issue. But for some reason mine is so hard to get to that I had to remove the fuse box by the battery and a bolt out of the side of the block, which held a metal bar that wires were connected to. I notice all these videos can see theirs fairly easy. You cannot see mine except for the wire. Neither the 27mm or 1&1/16 in worked. They fit but not well enough. I need like a 1&1/32 in. This is rediculous. Even if I had one, I cant get a wrench in there much less over it. To say its not difficult is a flat lie
@ it is a pain in the butt. I had to get mine from underneath, with a long extension. but I do love my PT.
I'm going to try and fix this myself. Thank you so much for taking the time to walk us thru this.
Me too!
Thank you , you awesome dude! ❤
MARRY ME!!! Not only have you saved me $300+ but you are a straight up HONEST guy. We beed LOTS more mechanics like you around.
Lol, thanks, and thanks for watching my friend. Please thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel for me, thanks
Finally I knew it wasn't a bad engine. No knock or rattle but that stupid light keeps coming on. Thanks for being straight up on this.
There was about 41/2 minutes of information, but it was so entertaining that I had to watch the whole thing. My neighbor has a 07 pt, and she has questions every once in a while, so I subscribed here. You sound knowledgeable, and you try to get the point across so hard it's fun to watch.
Good job. It's appreciated. Thanks.
Dude I have had this problem on my PT Cruiser for years but only in the summer. I rebuilt the engine, has 310,000 km on it, and I changed the oil pressure unit and I still have this problem and the oil pump is fine so you just fixed my car! Many other PT owners have the same problem, one guy I read rebuilt his engine and added an oil cooler just to fix this one issue. Thanks👍
may be the best repair vid ive ever seen...& oil sensor cured my problem,thankfully
Thanks for tuning in
Your explanation makes so much sense!
I have been seeing 'thousands' of videos about the problem, but no explanations, nor do any say anything about hooking up a pressure gauge to verify the problem.
You are as awesome as Scotty Kilmer is about cars and their repairs.
😅😊 Thanks
I have my mechanic coming out today to try this. Oil light has been on since I got it, would go on and off…. Had trans rebuilt.. started giving code P0700 with P0522 but the oil pressure sensor was something I had changed already. I felt like my car needed to “breathe” I kept saying that. 😂😂😂 I don’t think I was using the correct terminology but I feel like its was muffled somewhere. I love your videos…not ready to give up my PT.. this is the car my dad seen me purchase w my own money before he passed. 🕊️ miles are low. And I love the interior. Just don’t like the bad rep they have.
Good luck, hopefully it helps.
@@OnlineMechanicTips thank you 🙏🏾🌻
THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH!!! You've saved my sanity. 🤣 There was a good bit of oil buildup when hubby pulled the "bullet" out. We just recently got an pull change so we were wondering what the problem was. Thanks again!
Damn man i thank you soso much i had this problem for years and the workshop changed everything. The oil seals, oil pan oil sensor but ntohing worked and i payed so much money. And in the end it only was a little plastic pen. You are the best men.
You are the best and talk in a way that I can understand... Not that mechanic talk that loses me with terms...
😂Thanks
You're awesome! Thank you for sharing you gifted knowledge. You saved me alot of unnecessary money. I subscribed to your channel, keep 'em coming! Thanks for all the PT Cruiser videos especially!
Awesome, thank you!
I don’t even have a car 😂, i just love watching you talk.
😂😂😂 you're on your way to becoming a human OBD2 Code inspector bud 👍🏾
Had to smog mine in CA , failed due to my drive cycle to pass but oil light popped up an lost $60.00 on my smog certificate.
Took your advice pulled pin , did my drive cycle OIL LIGHT never came on vehicle was ready and PASSED! with no indication of oil pressure problem listed on smog check, so thank you!
It usually only came on when the car was hot
That is why you're reason makes it 100% accurate.
An thank you for suggesting replacing the sensor just in case there is any oil pressure issue this makes it a perfect preventive maintenance suggestion.
Thnxs Again!
I was impressed by your unique presentation and I respect yours years of car experience with the Pt Cruiser. I subscribed to your channel with expectations of hearing and learning more about (the trick of the trade).
Thanks for tuning in bud. I have a complete playlist on PTs and more added regularly so stay tuned
Thank you so much for the video. I unplugged that sensor and I heard it make a woosh sound when it released the pressure! You’re the man!
Thanks for watching. Please remember to thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel. Thanks
You're simply amazing, very thorough. I believe that I can do this myself and I'm going to try. Thank you so much.
Hey Becky,, go for it. And thanks for watching my friend.
@@OnlineMechanicTips
Thanks to you! This girl did it herself. Yay me 🤣
@@OnlineMechanicTips
And the oil light has not come back on 💕
AWESOME TIP.. THANK YOU...
Too bad there aren't more honest mechanics around. I'm having problems with a oil pressure sensor in my 2007 H3 Hummer now.
GOD BLESS & THANK YOU
Thanks for watching Jason, please remember to thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel, thanks
Dude! Great vid. I don't have a PT cruiser. Was looking for info on a kia but watched this anyway. A lot good info here. I like your teaching style. Haha. subbed
Thanks Brian, thats whats up.
I've had the flicker in my 2001 since I bought it. I'm a second owner.
I've heard that it was a common issue and as long as my oil was good I disregarded it.
My grandson is using the car now. Recently I replaced the valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket, as well as brakes suspension and steering.
Doing the work Myself I didn't mind spending the money for parts, knowing they are all new now and at a fraction of just a few new car payments.
My grandson gets crazy about the light flickering and thinks it's gonna burn up.
I told him that we shouldn't be leaking oil now and as long as he checks and it's good, don't worry.
I can't wait to try this fix and get rid of the issue and my grandson worrying about it.
This mah dawg yo! He has saved ne thousands of dollars with his car tips! Mad props! 👍👍👍
Thanks for tuning in PJ. Remember to thumbs up the vids, thanks
This is excellent! I have this exact problem with my 2002 Chrysler Concorde Lxi with the 3.5. Fortunately that sending unit is easy to get to from below. Thank you!
Thanks for watching Patrick. I hope it works out for you.
You are so awesome!!! I come to you for any of my 07 issues. I have saved soooo much money because of your help. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!
Thanks and you welcome my friend.
I DID IT! I replaced my wiper switch and my oil sending unit myself! Thank you for your help! One question though, is the oil pressure "sensor" and the oil pressure "sending unit" the exact same thing?
I just got this done i was freaking out thanks god 🙏 it wasn't something more serious i have a pt cruiser too
Lol, glad you got er done. Please remember to thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel. Thanks
Just listening to this...it sounds like Roy Jones Jr giving me good advice on oil pressure.
Haha you're right lol. One my favorite boxers
Hey buddy very easy ro understand and all mechanics should be as intuned to the customer or owner of a vehicle needing repair.
I wanted to ask you about my magnum se 2.7l. Over the holidays it had been leaking coolant and i took it into a different shop then normal. I was not comfortable with it but needed it for holiday. Car went in for diagnostic. Included was water pump, tensioner timing cover gasket valve cover gasket or plenum gasket thermastat and housing in addition to tune up and oil change with filter this was original verbal estimate of 1100 With additional request of oil change w filter tunewith plugs and wires if needed. He requested car be left dor at least 3 days. I said 3 days thats alot of time. So he said 2 days byt i lije to say 3 in case because we need to check timing chain guides because its all in same area. So i Dropped car aftrr talking with mechanic because he seemed knowledgable regarding this particular model engine. I discussed what i wanted as far as qualit u in a part and didnt nrmally buy from oreillys for quality OEM parts are the way to go for length of work involved and money i spent and he said oh no that would be cery expensive but it was my choice as a customer and owner. At any rate i requested also old parts be put back in my car as well as new boxes. second day i dropped by to check in after calling regarding abilit to purchase kits for thermistaf n housing as well as water pump kit to save me money and knock out other areas as mileage was at that inteval I also wanted my estimate an work order as i only signed a form for them to get started. Over phone he basically revealed it was thermistate chanfinf order to only thermistate n housing but 500.00 i asked what was included to be so high he quoted spark plugs being 9@ a new reservor etc erc but still didt gve e a estimate on visiting i noticed my engne had oil buildt up like a coating and starting to accumulate. Long story short my car ran good ever any check egbe light no dash warning lights ever and changed oil with only a number 5 plug misfire early on when i bought it in 2021. On 2nd day i was told it was warer pump too so he had t do the work order given frst of 1100. After seeing car on 3rd day clse ro mid afternon i got frusrrated knowing i was nt going t get it eve folwing day. An still only got an estimare with parts list no numbers for parts like requested or details on how other related parts looked he assured me it would be ready but it was a big job. Low n behold 3 rd day i gor call it was ready and he was going to test drive it. Later he callex said he wanted me my ghy t cone tommorrow to dscuss a problem he ad with car i was instantly anxety riden and said just tel me whats gong on with car. He said ge was driving it and it made no noise but oil light came on instantly an it shut off. He said he tried it again check engne lighr was om and it started died on spot i said dnt keep tryibg to start it you wil damage it. He said be patiebt an give him tinw to get it back to shop and wlll call his brother. He called said he was bacm at shop and hes sure engine went. I was upser an around corner an was coming over. He said im not at shop. I said y just said you were. Following day we needed a car estimaes exchanged but was ignired on requests to look under hood. Evertually keaving witb owners newer subaru instead of rental with undserstanding he would take care of car becuz it was in his posession when engine failed. Denied any stored codes at any point especially after engine blew. After xmas he called me to go over hm finding an engine i didnt think to ask what kind of warrenty but ended up being 90 day however upon returning vehicle paying 1200 no info written where purchased from and warrenty notes written in as 90 days from time he purchased nit 11 days later when i got to drive home with my car. It overheated on hill coming home 2 weeks later went back inro shp after oem thermistate was ordered from dealer . Not to mention off brand he went for faled n thermistate and water pump was same brand too. Each time my cars went int shop i find thngs ike my horn hangng damaging radiator and il cooling delicate fins liise or missing bolts an lush oins as well as loose ground wires too. Mostly id like to know yr thougts and ask why would my engne oil dipstick be so tightly fitted under housing tube from airr filter housing making it crunced under it and the next tine it be okay centered where it shoud be and last time hise from l shapex boot off side of air filter housing so close and tightly above oil filler cap i cant take it off unless hose comez off. Incidently my other engine he had us look at to show difference ibside an my old engine had metal shavingz kf good size at bottom and sparky shavngs everywhere and still denies seeing any codes or hearinv any noise and air flter so coated with coolant and never did they think to change.
I am replacing my 2004 Jeep liberty 3.7 oil pressure switch and going to remove that thing you are talking about.
Good deal. Thanks for tuning in. Please remember to thumbs up the video and consider subscribing to the channel.
Brilliant you are .the mechanic was going to hit me for six ,but thanks to this video bingo!
Thanks for watching, please remember to thumbs up the video, thanks
Incredibly thorough. Love this guys knowledge. Gotta find out where youre located so I can bring my PT Cruiser to YOU!
Thank you,I'm having same issue with my PT Cruiser 2006
I'm doing this soon .
God bless you!!
Great video, man. Thanks for all the helpful advice
Thanks for tuning in Tommy. Please remember to thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel. Thanks
Excellent video!
Thanks for tuning in. Please don't forget to smash the like button and consider subscribing to the channel. Thanks
I sure did. Don't have a PT but a Dodge. I think I can still get some good info. I can tell you have a lot of experience and explain things even novices like me can get.
Loud and clear! And energized as well! Thank you Sir!
So glad I found this video and was introduced to your channel. My question is do you believe I could be having the same issue with my 2008 Dodge Caliber? Not sure if they will notify me if you reply to my question so I'll definitely be checking back with you!!! Damn, I wish I had found your channel before selling my 08 PT, I loved that car but it definitely has a lot of problems your knowledge could have helped me on
I forgot to mention, I love your no bullshit approach!! Straight up from the get go.
Whats going on Kent. If this Caliber use the same connector as that in the video then yes, this would apply. A new updated sending unit and the connector plug removed should do it. Thanks for watching
Well, well, maybe my 2006 Hyundai Elantra SX, has same problem, that pesky flickering oil light at hot idle.
I replace, oil sender unit, oil pump, and big end bearing shells and main bearing shells, and crankshaft thrust washers. Also all Conrod and main bearing cap bolts.
That pesky flickering oil light at hot idle, still lingers.
Well I will check the oil sender connector like here to see if it can breathe.
Great share! 👍
Good vids grt info. Chrysler be wildin with the grazy design attempts on almost all of their rides you gotta luv'em.
Yea well stay tuned bud, the new stuff coming out even wilder..lol..thanks for watching
Thanks a lot for the info I've replaced the unit and removed the pen as adviced now oil light is gone and the car runs as usual, However there's a bit of extra noise kind of like compressed air blowing while the car is running, should I worry about it or just ignore it?
You are the best at explaining
Useful information thanks.... having that problem now with my Buick enclave cxl 2009
Thank you for making the video. It's been a week, and the oil sending unit warning light has yet to come on. I did remove the plug/spike and replaced it with a piece of tubing from a can of brake cleaner I had. I also found oil running down the side of the engine and found another video showing that I needed to replace the PVC valve and hose, which solved all my issues. It's crazy that a hose will stretch and weaken to the point of leaking, and there are no clamps on the OEM; poor design. The replacement of the oil sending unit wasn't hard, but it was a pain to reach it. Most of it is by feeling for it and not seeing the part. No more warning lights and no more leaks.
Thats whats up my friend. Thanks for watching and remember to thumbs up the video
was this a pt or a town and country or caravan might have to see if thats a problem on my van
@@vibingwithredd4540 The repair apply to any vehicle using this connector.
Man I just went out side to check the van to see a leak on some card board I left this morning. Minimum. Now looking at it overhead .
1. Found burn exposed wire leading down towards the sensor
2. Three wires hanging
I turned the van on and the lights was going off oil light and chime . So I opened the window and started wiggling the wires and checking every time same thing chime and lights. Then I looked and the plastic cord protector on the bunch of cables and it was a lil piece disconnected . Man I added that piece to the last wiggling and wellll………. God is goooooooood cuz the lights went out and I don’t have to get under there before work . I bought the piece and was gonna order a oil pan and gasket now I just gotta go to the 1.25 plus tax store and get some black tape . Everyone God is great u take one step he’ll match each time . Moral of the story be a lil proactive if you don’t have the cash . Pray on it research and try . I did and loook ant the outcome
Mr PT. I have an oil leak that is so bad you lose about a qt every 5 miles
I have replaced the cam sensor seal and the valve cover gasket no more issues there. you would think that losing that much oil you'd see it. it appears to be somewhere on the passenger side rear of the motor. does this engine have an external oil pump or could it be a crank seal
I have learned a lot about this car from you videos. im hoping you have some advice' Thanks
What year is the PT? Also are you subscribed to the channel?
When I went to pull it out it was so old that only the square head and a small piece of the shaft came out, the rest of the shaft is still in there.
So I still got that annoying bing from the oil light.
Question: if it is just causing my oil light to come on periodically bing, can I drive it until I can figure out how to get the rest of that shaft out of there.
It is an extremely difficult position to reach and I'm not looking forward to doing it again. Thank you so much for this video. Looking forward to your answer.
Removing the diaphragm doesn’t negate the sensor’s ability to detect proper pressures? If the oil pressure actually drops, is it still going to register with an oil pressure light?
Yes, it will work just fine my guy. In fact, if you buy a new oil pressure connector it will not come with it.
This man knows what he is doing
Thanks for the information. You are a great mechanic.
Y thank you my friend..please remember to thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel..thanks
Gonna give it a shot right now! *I "subscribed".
Thanks bud. Good luck
what about oil pressure light going out when driving but coming on when in idle or at a stop? Once accelerating the light goes out. (Nissan Maxima)
You seem like the right guy to ask. My sons 2002 Nissan Xterra V6. He got it to start it to go to school and oil pressure light was on. The next day I pulled it into the garage no funny noises oil level is clean and where it should be got a new sending unit from AutoZone took the old unit out which looked to be original with the vehicle put the new one and hooked it back up turn the car back on oil light is still on. But it is very dim on the dashboard not like when I turn on the accessory mode it’s very bright. I checked the connector make sure it was all clean it was no oil residue on it. I did a multi meter test on the old unit and there was no continuity between the one pin at the top and the body of the unit. I tested another new switch that I purchased separately and that one has continuity. I have not had a chance to check the one that I installed from AutoZone yet. Any thoughts I feel like it’s something simple that I missing. But my test confirm that the old switch was bad but after I installed the new one from AutoZone it still did not turn the light off
Does Ford have the little tab also that needs throwing away?
Thanks for sharing this man.
My 2000 Ford Windstar light comes on sometimes while sitting in line at the bank or restaurants.
I have a Chrysler 300. Thankyou for the honesty.
Thank you for the video. I wonder if that will be same issue for other car makes. I have a jeep compass. It was running fine 3 days ago. I knew it was low on antifreeze, I added it but found oil leaking in the top gasket after driving the car for 20 min, that's when light goes on. Any suggestions Thanks.
Is it possible to simply pull that tab and put it back on the old one? For some reason mine is barely able to be touched, and i took out way more stuff than the air box. I had to move harnesses, hoses, the fuse box, and a bolt that on the block that also held a metal bar. Still cant get to it
I pull that out on all my personal customers cars if I even see it in the connector. So yes
Thank you brother. Problem solved! Be well.
Thanks for watching bud, please thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel for me, thanks.
As a point of clarification, the design flaw is in the sensor itself not the connector plug. The plug keeps water out of the connection as intended. The sensor gets old and leaks oil into the connection causing false readings. Obviously you dont care abour water intrusion in a connection that gets oiled constantly.
There has never been a problem with water or moisture getting into this connector after it has been manipulated. You simply thinking to hard dude. And the flaw was in fact the connector. If you dont know the history of this problem why are you speaking on it. There was in fact a TSB with instructions to do just what Im suggesting in the video. Replacing the sensor alone will not solve problem.
@@OnlineMechanicTips These connections are called weather packs. This was a two wire pack but only one wire was needed, so they went with the cheapest solution and stuck a plug in the empty slot to maintain the weather packs water tightness. The only reason water intrusion isn't a problem here is because the sensor leaks oil which prevents corrosion. The idea that an electrical connections needs to breath is obsurd unless there is another issue. Replacing the sensor alone will fix the issue temporarily (could be years) until it leaks again. But a properly designed sensor would solve the problem forever. Chrystler, clearly didn't want to redesign a leak proof sensor so they went with the cheapest solution and put out the TSB.
@@_RiseAgainst Look dude customers dont care about any of this you saying. They just want they car fix. Removing that plug allow any potential pressure in that connector to vent out and simply be released. Pressure inside that connector created by even a new sensor would cause the oil light to flicker and even stay on. You think to hard without thinking dude, its not that serious. Just pull the plug and replace the sensor and the problems solved. Read the comments
@@OnlineMechanicTips customers aren't on RUclips reading comments. And I never said not to do this fix. But I am correct that the sensor is the original problem. And since we are calling each other out for no reason, the pressure inside the connection is not causing a the light to flicker. The change in resistance, because of the oil, is causing the false readings. Connections cannot read pressure, only the other end of the sensor can. BTW I was never disagreeing with you on my original comment. If your ego can't handle a slight clarification, maybe stay away from the comment section.
@_RiseAgainst The comment section the most important part of the video dude, now why would i stay away from all this fun?. And you just described in a more worded technical way what I meant by the pressure build up. Comment readers like for us content creators to keep it simple. I read comments and simply reply accordingly dude. Your original comment sounded as if simply replacing the sensor would fix the problem. I simply dis agreed and advised to also manipulate the connector. Now if a car maker happen to suggest the very same thing it has to be ok. You worried about moisture and all that's not a concern.
Thanks man, would that pin be cause thing sensor to have burned up oil on the ousid of it
Best mechanic.. I dig him.
Thanks for watching bud
Does this method work for other makes/models or just Chrysler?
Its really all about the connector buddy. Not so much the brand. But mostly Dodge/chryslee/jeep use this connector
Thank you very informative video yes I was quoted $260 , $100 for pile pressure test. $160 for a oil pressure sensor replacement. Its a $15 part they charge $60. Did you shoot this video in selfish mode? Ha ha everything looks backwards on the pt cruiser engine.
THANK YOU SO MUCH , I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS AND NOW I LIKE MY CRUISER
Awh thanks for watching. Dont forget to thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel, thanks
Do I need to take out the oil before changing out the sending unit first ?
No, its ok to do this without draining the oil.
@@OnlineMechanicTips thank you so much
What would happen if I just remove the bullet? Like if I don’t replace the sensor and just pull the bullet? Just wondering because my light has been coming on but I want to know exactly what the problem is. Would just removing the bullet cause any problems since I didn’t replace the sensor too?
I've done that. You won't cause any problems.
@@OnlineMechanicTips thanks so much! Thanks for responding so fast too!
Great video. Thanks for all the info and tips.
Your lucky we're not neighbors, you would have 2 more PT's to work on or "help" with.
My mom's + mine. Lol. I did the next best thing n subscribed. Thanks again. Have a good one.
Does that work for any make and model or just chrysler?
Hello, pretty much any model that has a pin blockin the o2 flow. But yes, mostly Chrysler/Dodge. Thanks for watching, please thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel, thanks
Thanks ,great video.when the rain stops im on it,mine leaking oil like old faithful and daughter tired of that light crap.
Yes, fairly easy job. Thanks for watching bud, please thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel, thanks
My dude great vid. Worked perfectly
Thanks for tuning in
our neighbor has an issue with hers gonna fix it, thanks for this video, just gotta look for the neon green connector
real MVP solved light by just removing plastic piece without having to replace anything!!!!
lol, that connector can breath now...Thanks for watching bud. Thumbs up the vid and sub the channel for me, thanks
This man is the real deal
Roy, you are the man!
EVERYTIME I turn my pt on the oil light stays on. I have to turn the car off and turn it back on and the light goes off. Do you think this same thing would solve the issue? I have checked and the oil level is correct.
Depends, what year is your PT? Also are you subscribed to the channel?
@@OnlineMechanicTipssame issue here. When it’s on, it stays on, when it’s off, it stays off. 50/50 if it will be on or off when I start it. Pulled the plug out of the molle connector: no change… car runs great regardless and oil pressure and level is fine. Already replaced the OPSU a couple of times before: I’m starting to think this is a field flash issue with the ECU or something in the 2004
I am dealing with this right now and I feel like crying. The shop just replaced the oil pressure sensor, but the message and the light still come on. "Oil pressure low STOP ENGINE". This is on a 2012 Captiva. I can't do what you are saying myself because supposedly you have to remove the alternator on this car to get to the oil pressure sensor. I will have to take it to the dealership and spend more money to solve this problem. I have already spent $2300.00 in the last month on this vehicle.
Great information 👍
Thanks
Thank you Sir. for sharing your knowledge ❤️
Welcome!
My 06 300 oil light comes on, I changed out the pressure sensor and still having this issue. Can I do this work from the top?
What size engine in this car? Also are you subscribed to the channel?
is it ok to just fix the plastic connector without changing the oil pressure sensor?
where are you located, I need to start bring my 2009 Ford Fusion to you.. thanks
Hello my friend, we in the Atla Ga area
Question, i know its a long time since this video... if you remove this bullet, will the oil pressure sensor still work when you actual have issue with the oil pump ?
Yes it will still work..you just creating a vent port
@@OnlineMechanicTips Great, i haven't replaced the sensor because i ordered it and im waiting for the part to arrive. Till then im not willing to drive with the chime on 😂 I took off the bullet today without adding a straw and immediately the light went off. I am a mechanic my self as well but i never had to deal with Dodge/Chrysler oil pressure/oil pump issues. They are very rare here in Finland. So you shared your much appreciated knowledge to a fellow mechanic. Keep up the good work and stay safe!🙏
@@vgothica83 Thanks bud, and please remember to thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel, thanks
_I like you! You did a really great job teaching me about the PT Cruiser. Any tips on fixing oil light for 2002 Chrysler 300M?_
Well thank you my friend, can you like the channel enough to consider subscribing to it? thanks. Now, what size engine in this 300M?
Can it cost it to run hot in the car and when you crank up your car blue or Grey smoke come out the muffer
No, the sending unit will not cause that. You have other problems
This man is a Genius!!!
Thanks for watching my friend..please thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel, thanks
I just rebuilt a 2003 neon R/T and i get this oil light pop on at idle. I pop the oil cap and rev the engine and i see oil flying all over the place and the engine is dead quiet. Im going to try this trick and if it works i owe you a beer.
...Keep'em coming
👍👍👍
With what you said Would it be the same for a 2007 pt I tried replacing it this morning it was really difficult to get to locate and I had no success removing that connector
same
Is it the same procedure on a 64 impala with a 283 small block? My lights coming on at stops
Can't get the connector off. Pushed the red tab both directions but it won't budge. Now this is in awkward position and can only use one hand. Any suggestions? Right now I'm stumped. 🤔
So I have a 2001 dodge intrepid with 2.7l it has flickered like mentioned, I changed the sensor a while back I took it to the shop due to me not being able to do it after my surgery my mechanic friend put a guage on it and it was were it was supposed to be he also said it was lower then most cars but I guess at idle it has low psi, does that sound right? After having it replaced it started doing it again I read to use synthetic oil due to poor design of engine. After a while it went off and a year or so went by back to it again today if I pull that plug out will the sensor still work as it should if there's a problem? Can I just pull the plug or do I need to put that pcs in there? Thanks for your time thumbs up and subscribed to your channel 👍
Also I have taken very good care of this car I just hit 55000 miles and change oil every 2500 miles I know thats overkill but again I want this car to last and know about engine sludge and poor oil journals in the engine
Hey bud..I been getting away with simply replacing the sensor and removing the plug no it could breath..you will not hurt anything by doing that..thanks for watching.
Thank you very much for your "inside info" man lol nice to know what's really up. I bought a new sensor for $50 funny how a mechanic would charge over 300 for the part and installation. That's robbery lol. 👍👍
Could it be the same problem on a 2009 Dodge Journey? Sensor was replaced with a non Genuine and then it started to ping ….
Yes, I Think they use the same connector. Please remember to thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel, thanks
yes pull the plastic pin not needed it... really works all you people
My dude. I did a shorts video on this recently and if you read the comments, 90% seems to believe thats bs..lol.. ruclips.net/user/shortsPkWbZFwWS6Q
On what years would this be I have a srt4 neon where the light would turn on them off??
I just bought a 2008 Dodge Caliber and the oil light would chime and light up whenever I start up the car and come to a stop. It is annoying to hear the chime every time the oil light came on. I now know what to do to fix this problem.
I have this problem on my 2011 chevy impala lt. Will this hack work on my car?
Yo JT please tell me this removing of that tab from the oil pressure connector will work on my Jeep 2007 Patriot? That oil like flickering is driving me crazy.
Yes, im thinking this the same setup as your 2007. Replace the sending unit with the newly updated sensor and pull the plug out of the connector.
@@OnlineMechanicTips Can I just pull the plug and call it a day? I will replace the sensor at a later date.
@@hectorhernandez9892 yes. I would.
@@OnlineMechanicTips Hey thank you for responding to me. So, I bought a new oil pressure sensor on Amazon for like 12 bucks. I was going to replace it myself, but it is tough to get to. I found a pretty honest repair shop near me and they will replace it for me for 75 bucks. I am good with that. You think it will be OK if I tell them to remove the plug on the connector?
Will this sensor leak oil without knowing? Just curious.
YES, thats very much possible because its behind the cyl head and you cant see it
Are you going at this from underneath?? Passenger side or driver's side??
Driver side from the top
Oh shit I'm going to have to take off the throttle body to get to it I think. I tried it yesterday and the red part of the connector broke off. Not sure how I'm going to get it off now
Did watch another one and obviously do it from the bottom and pressure from oil pressure obviously--but removing the pin thing??? Why would it not leak oil then???? Thanks
it takes a blk man to tell another blk man how to fix his problem lol. been up all night trying to find my problem on youtube. now at 7 am eastern time i finally get a blk man on his shit . thank u so much . went through a oil change and 5 extra qt. and the light kept coming on. and i only had the van for a month. now i am confident enough to get under the van and try this fix .although i think its could be the wire . but man God bless you brother cuz i heard country music politcal commentaries all type of things in ppl videos that dragged on but the same fix smh your video was funny and straight to the point so i am subcribing , plz do vidoes on the caliber and town and country early years if you ever get to work on them