I had the noise on my AT120 and finally found a fix. I fitted 100 ohm resistors in series with the 3 drive lines to the motor coils. No more noise but the down side is less torque from the motor and it takes a full revolution to get to speed. I was planning to reduce the resistor values to see if I could get better torque and still keep the motor silent but haven't had the time.
I have an AT240 with the same problem. Planning to try a Herbie's mat but haven't ordered it yet. Also bought an AT record weight that has its own benefits, but not for this problem. Can anyone explain why resistors would affect a rhythmic thumping sound? Strange. Maybe you'd be kind enough to show the open body from below when it's open and if it requires soldering. Thanks
@@davegleeful I'm still interested in the motor fix, the preamp filters have been removed and AS spring replaced, I've since moved on to the LP140XP, it's a much better TT, only problems - Out of the Box is noisy mains transformer and tonearm shield connected to mains earth, I've put in a toroid TF and disconnect the jack panel from mains earth
@@manFromPeterborough I've a few photos of the modification but I took out links J124, J125 & J126 and replaced them with 100 ohm resistors. These stopped the noise but dramatically reduced torque, maybe smaller resistors would have been better but I didn't have stock at the time. These 3 links run from the chip that drives and controls the motor, each line drive a pair of coils that sit on the PCB under the motor platter, 6 coils total.
My 120USB;s collection will be going bye bye, with the AS fixed up and low pass filters removed, the pulsing noise and buzz pickup still annoy me and tonearm curve not accurate, cart needs to be twisted in slightly to meet Baerwald protractor alignment and the onboard preamp is always connected in parallel when using phono out
Thanks for the video, Humberto. I also heard the motor noise from my AT120USB. I refer to it as "cogging". The direct-drive motor is essentially "pulsing" the platter to maintain speed. I spoke with Audio Technica about it, and they told me it was normal for this turntable model, and that they weren't going to do anything about it. Their lackadaisical answer troubled me, so I switched to a belt-driven Fluance turntable. Problem solved. Subsequently, I learned that other customers complained about the same issue, and a reasonable solution was to use a heavy disk stabilizer (such as the AT816). By adding the extra weigh, it helped to maintain the rotational inertia and eliminated the cogging sound. In your video, you mentioned that the platter on the AT140XP was heavier, so that might explain how Audio Technica addressed the issue. For me, I've kept my AT120USB so that I can digitize LPs, and I've successfully converted several.
I've had the updated LP-120x for a while now and haven't heard this motor noise that everyone is talking about. Using a heavy disc stabilizer or ohm resistors will certainly help with the noise in due time. But to be honest I'm not really worried because I close the case and walk away from it when I'm listening to it. My surround sound setup is about 25 feet away from the turntable where I chill out on the couch and I can't see myself ever hearing this motor noise.
As someone who used the AT120's to DJ on that 'thud' sound became even mire apparent when back-cueing or spinning the record. You could actually feel it under the platter, it sounded like the motor was overloading and would skip the records all the time
The newer 120 that I have does not make any noise at all. I notice mine is newer because my 120 does not have a pop up light. It is a set light. I had a newer 140 and returned it because I could personally hear no sound difference between it and the 120. I liked the looks of the 120 better also and the price was better.
@@jeffcsMN I agree-the 120 is a good value and a good TT. But, having had both, I can say that the 140 is worth the upgrade. OF COURSE the tone arm of the 140 is metal, despite what he makes you wonder about it here. It just looks different. And btw, I prefer the matte look of the 140:tone arm, and the overall look of the 140. Frankly, he’s not doing it justice here, for, in the way that he has his camera angled, he has it a bit farther away from the camera than the 120. This is a classic sales technique-put the one you want them to choose closer, and they will be much more likely to choose it. So if you’re happy with the 120, great! But know that when you’re ready to upgrade, the 140 is worth the step up.
I just had a chance to view and touch one AT-LP140XP myself. It just felt... Not entirely right. At startup it initially struggled to lock to speed but it was steady afterwards. Tonearm... well, vertical movement was smooth when zero balanced, without any resistance. No play in bearings. But lateral movement was jerky. The tonearm had springy and resistive behavior in any point where I placed it over platter. Giving a breath didn't make it move. This led me to decision to stay away from this deck.
Did you try the placing damping material on six contact points of the black motor mount circular plate. The damping material will prevent the motor noise from transmitting to the plinth and then to the tone arm. You may have to keep the circular plate screws off since the motor noise will transmit through them and then to the plinth.
i have the 120 usb and at start up it makes a motor noise, like Woo Woo Woo and it repeats very faint but cant unhear it. But its my goto over my belt driven Pioneer PL30-k upstairs which i like as well.
As owner of both of them I feel the 140 has cheaped out on design and feeling but has a better motor than the lp120. Output level is related ofc to what stylus you use. As i am a DJ they are both fitted with Ortofon Mix MK2. The 140 doesn't have that motor sound but it has a buzzing sound from the power supply. It is audible especially in more quiet environments. Sound quality is a bit better on the lp140 and this is mainly because it doesn't have a line ouput wich delivers the sound unprocessed. Both have advantages and disadvantages. On the lp140 every button/switch feels cheap, the target light goes up very slow and you need to press the release button 4-5 times for it to retract completly, i just stopped closing it since it's bad...also the power on swich on the lp140 is very stiff, you feel it will break at some point or stop working. Since the lp120 was discontinued and the 120x is worst than the original 120 the obvious option is to go with the 140 as there is no other option in this price range that would make sense (at least for me). I also want to point out that the lp120's made from december 2017 onwards have the anti-skating fixed. Those models have the HS10 upgraded headshell instead of the original HS1. I feel the anti-skating on the lp140 is way too agressive (had a hard time calibrating the tonearm even with the anti-skating on 0)
@Andrei Coada Glad I found your comment. I knew the anti-skate had been fixed but I've never known since when so thank you for that clarification. I have the 120 USB and I've heard removing the pre-amp can have positive impact on sound quality. Do you know if this is true? Always looking to get a little bit more out of what I have! Thanks, have a day!
@@gregoryconnors7370 in my opinion it's not a big deal, i am using phono output since i have it connected to the mixer. I am not sure if all the hassle is worth the time for a minor difference. You will also lose the ability to rip vinyls via the usb (wich I do)
Transmitter is good. Not much real broadcasting since work is crazy with pandemic, but I did get a new mod monitor that I needed to refurb so I have run the transmitter more for testing purposes, but mostly into a dummy load.
The unwanted sound you hear from the 120 may be may be a defective part in that particular example and not indicative of all examples of that model. The features are all the same but for the added 2 on the 140 which lacks an inbuilt phono pre-amp...It may be that the 120 has an internal phono pre-amp absent in the 140, that enhances any electrical noise.
Logically, the difference of price between the two turntables is in things like the ambiental noise reduction to start to play the machine. To me, personally, It doesn't matter
Interesanting, Humberto, what you explain about the visual and the musical differences between these two turntables. I havre to buy one of them. Yes, the 120 model is nicer but yes the 140 model is silent. I should have appreciated to listen few seconds with them with the same album. But congratulations for this beautiful presentation. My choice : I really do not know again. The 120 is much more nicer. But we listen the music. Hello from the north (Québec) !
Yes correct, the 120 has a built-in preamp. I use a very vintage ATI P-100 as the preamp for the 140. I don't think the 120’s preamp has anything to do with the motor noise. Saying this because the preamp is always on when the turntable power is on (Rotary switch), but the noise occurs only when the motor is on (square button).
Can you listen italo disco on 140? At homme...? I think it would sounds great. Can you compare 140 with Tensai td 760qz? It's from 1979. I think. In the point of sound. Best wishes
Hey I have a question about the lp140, I’ve read reviews saying that the platter slightly tilts when the hand is on the record, I also read reviews that say they don’t tilt or wobble? Does the platter also stop when the hand is on the record even with a slip mat? Would like a response from you, thanks 🙏🏽
Hi Mizrach. Does the platter tilt? With enough weight, yes, a very tiny little, but also the legs on the whole body compress given enough weight. That said, this is not something I've noticed before. Does the platter stop? If your hand is on the side of the record no, if it's on the top of the record, yes.
Hey Humberto thanks for your response! Regarding if the platter stops, I should of made myself clear, I’m guessing you have the rubber mat on the platter? I was referring to ‘back cueing’ the record with a slip mat when mixing. I’ve read comments saying the motor isn’t strong enough. I’ve seen other videos on the lp140 where they are being mixed on & scratched with and from what I have seen it gets the job done! I’ve ask those guys questions but they never got back to me. Thanks again for your response!
@@DoubleRock4000 I have the felt mats on these, not rubber. I'm not sure what "back cuing" means as opposed to cueing, but if it's cueing while the turntable platter is actually turning under power, and you move the record with your hand on it's edge, yes this turntable can do that. Is the turntable platter moving at exactly the right 33 RPM while you're doing this? No, but it's probably like 95% of the right RPM.
Haha I guess cueing & back cueing is the same, basically just trying to find the cue point of the track or pulling the record back without the platter slowing down. I Just ordered a lp140 to demo & will see how it goes! Side note: i do mixing and own a pair of AT-LP1240, they are great but not technics great! One of the tonearm on the deck is wobbly but they are still going! I just want to add a 2nd pair of decks to mix on. I like the look of the lp140. The lp1240 looks funky! Audio Technica turntables can be great if they had great Quality Control! here is a video of the wobbly platter, I don’t know if he just didn’t put the platter on correctly or he had a bad table? ruclips.net/user/shortsCHJN6_T0hNI?feature=share
Yes, the 120 is a DJ favorite because of the price. The 140's are only couple of years old as a new model so the feedback will be just as good if not better in the coming years. I started to learn on these about 6 months ago and every day I get better and better at DJ'ing.
The only torque I know how to measure is degrees to full speed and honestly they seem about the same - about a 1/5 turn. That said, the 140's platter is heavier so the motor must be a bit more torque'ier .
I also have both turntables and have tried everything mentioned here to stop the motor noise of the 120 to no avail. I do hoever have a high pitched noise if I set my needle down on the 140 when the record is not running and sometimes further on in the record it will show. I think this is a vibration of the transformer which is built in in the 140 but external in the 120 but have not taken it apart to confirm it. I Don't know if anyone else has noticed this noise? I can't even bring myself to use the 120 because it's such a piece of junk .
very good video, very helpful for me, I have the atlp 120, and I want the atlp140 if it is really an upgrade in sound and performance, I have exactly the same problem with that annoyng noise you mention, I'm asking a big favour here, can you help me decide? please My main complaints about the atlp120 are: 1. The noise you mention in your video (But this one I can see that it is fixed on the atlp140 2. Anti Skating on the atlp120 is non-existent 3. Sometimes in some LPs, at the beginning or between the songs where there's silence, it seems to be an interruption in the signal, as it was disconnected for less than a second, but several times between the songs, and then, when the next song starts, the signal is on again. Since you have both TTs, would you be so king to check and tell me if those problems are fixed on the atlp140? If they are I'll definitely get one. Thanks in advance
If I had the option to go back in time with what I now know about the 140 I would buy it again in a heartbeat. It is quiet. It does have a sunken tonearm and it's anti skating does work (I didn't mention that in the video, but it's true the 120 anti skating is terrible and the 140 anti skating does work). Regarding the cutting out audio, I never had that issue with my 120, but since the 120 has a built in pre-amp, I'd bet your issue is with that, or if you are using the 120's USP, that converter might be the problem. The 140 is more like an old school set up - it does NOT have a USB and it needs an external pre-amp, just FYI. If I was you, I'd feel good abut getting the 140.
The "thump" noise has been fixed. They are basically the same unit. The main difference is the cartridge. The 140 comes with a better one but a preamp is needed. The 120 comes with a really good one and no preamp is needed but you can buy one if you want. In short, you'd be spending less money if you bought the 120 and bought a seperate cartridge, I recommend the Ortofon 2M Red, or 2M Blue. The 2M Blue is very nice.
@@etj8709 yes, 140 is better. Regarding preamp, it depends on what the turntable is plugged into. If you are plugging this into something that's labeled "Phono" then you don't need a separate phone pre-amp. If you are plugging it into something labeled "Line" then you will need a phono pre-amp. So it all depends on what you are plugging the turntable into.
@@etj8709 yes, the 140 is still better even if you need a separate phone pre-amp. Needing a separate pre-amp is additional cost and another thing in the audio chain, but the sound quality is still better than the 120 (at least it is for me).
I'm not DJ and just want an inexpensive TT for a second/third system. The more I see of these videos I'm thinking that a Pro-Ject Debut Evo will be a better fit for another $150 over the AT140. It also comes with a Sumiko cartridge installed. Just saying.
I believe the Pro-Ject is a belt drive turntable, and of course that brings up the age old belt drive vs direct drive discussion which IMHO is all about preference, because neither is scientifically fully better than the other. They are just different. For whatever reason, I am a direct drive guy, not sure why, just am. That said, the Pro-Ject turntables seem to have a very good reputation and look great too.
Each turntable is specially wired up to have a remote start/stop. It's essentially custom wiring to have a duplicate start/stop button via custom wiring in the back.
Can you tell me if the materials of both turntable case are the same? In 120 I know that is plastic. Apart from that, do you think that the sound is because the platter of 140 have like a "rubber" protector, in the internal side of the platter, making it heavier and less noisy. In case that this is the only difference, do you think that I can modify my platter of the 120 to add this kind of "rubber"?. Thanks!
The boxes on both the 120 and 140 are made of the same type of plastic. As far as modifying a 120's platter to add a rubber layer similar to the 140's platter: I can't say I know for sure, but my guess is it would do no good, for three reasons. 1. I am not sure what the "rubber" is actually made of. It seems especially heavy for simple rubber. 2. Even if you could find out what material actually is, you might have issues making sure you cut it perfectly so you kept the balance of the platter. 3. and most significant, if I'm right and most of my noise is generated by the motor itself, adding a layer of rubber to the platter does not change the fact the motor is directly connected to the platter by a metal to metal connection and any noise would still be transmitted up through that connection. That all said, I could be wrong and it wouldn't hurt to try.
@@humbertowrigolini578 The vinyl rescue guy tried everything to quieten his 120USB, finally gave up on it and bought a Rega P2 and has deleted all his vids of the 120
Sorry people but as a DJ with 40 years experience, I cannot recommend this turntable for any use. I have a brand new Technics SL1200 MK2 strictly for play back only in my house. I have never heard any 1200 suffer cogging or noise of any type. I have been setting/installing the 1200s for years. I got a grooveless 12 inch test disc after I had adjusted all the basics...angle of attack, weight and anti skate and using an Ortofon blue cartridge tested my results. Apart from the obvious friction between the stylus and the test disc, there was no noise what so ever. By the time I had turned the volume up to acoustic feedback level, if id had a real 12 inch single playing, I would have been deafened and my speakers would have been toast! If you don't have a test disc, carefully put a CD on your turntable shiny side up and centre it. Make sure you've calibrated your turntable properly and the effect is the same. I tried it myself and it works. The 3 phase hooting on the Audio Technica can be heard 3 metres away. Another guy bought one but didn't bother to unbox it. He had no intention of setting it up. He only wanted to see if the same problem existed which it did. He returned it the next day. The SL1200 MK2 is a great work horse but used as an audiophile deck for home use is perfect. Why are companies releasing their turntables that look exactly like a 1200? Because they're a perfectly machined piece of art. Opinions?
Interesting comment. I'm a beginner DJ and I'm planning to go over turntables very soon and I'm looking for a decent entry level turntables and I been interested in the LP140px, they look nice to play at home and maybe take them to some gigs and I've been reading a lot of reviews the last two weeks but I'm still a bit unsure. Also it's half of the price of a pair of Technics SL1210 mk7 (though I can afford both). What would you recommend to a newbie in turntables? Make a good investment at once or go for the AT LP140px?
@@rodrigo_rscs I've seen too many faults with this deck. Start Stop button not working. Audible hooting from the motor/cogging using just your ears and acoustic feedback. I'd try for a new pair of 1200s. The MK 7 is cheap looking and the Pioneer Reloop suffers acoustic feedback compared to a 1200 MK2. The Stanton ST-150 is a great deck. It's heavy but has all the features you'd expect from a turntable. Cheers Andrew.
Audio Technicas are renown for their Microphones. Official Mic's for recent Olympic Games. They do make quality carts and styli. Maybe they are just made by contractors? So what are you trying to prove? This ongoing discussion about Hi Fi is getting out of hand. FCS, we are only playing vinyl records. Then all you high end nut cases come out of the woodwork!
Less then 10 hours run time in the last 4 years? leave a car that long and you'll have more then a noise problem. I cant take this guy seriously, he's had them stripped, soldered wired them, fiddles with them, and have played less then 10 hours in 4 years. Its audiophile snobs like this that give the vinyl community that bad press, remember this, as you get older your hearing becomes more impaired, fact, so most of these audiophiles that claim to be able to tell the difference between a new cable or wire are a joke. A new generation are coming into the community with better hearing and less cynicism, its what the community needs not old farts who are never happy with sound and spend their lives fiddling with items instead of enjoying the sound they produce.
Meh it's an entry level Hanpin turntable. No need to be surprised or shocked. I started on Reloop RP-2000 MK3's about 12 years ago and they worked fine (it's the same Hanpin as the LP120 on the inside).
@@TheGreenDoggoOfWisdom Yep, but that one is discontinued together with the C100 (which is belt drive version of the C200 and an equivalent of the RP-1000).
@@TheGreenDoggoOfWisdom I think they already used a Hanpin from the start of the LP120 models. It's lame they chose to omit the VTA adjustment IMO. But AFAIK, the AS spring is improved.
The early 120s were pieces of crap honestly. No working antiskate and a non-switchable low pass filter in the audio path that had to be unsoldered manually if you wanted the full frequency spectrum. The 140 is the way better choice.
On the AT-LP120, there were no improvements made in the last decade. The same problems: none working AS mechanism and motor cogging. AT-LP140 was newly designed, so something very different. Still, for just a third price of AT-LP140, you can find a very decent japanese direct-drive turntable from 80`s and it will not spoil in terms of mechanical parts. You will have to replace some capacitors and that is it!
Not sure why these Audio Technica's got such poor specs. The cheapest turntable from 1970's/ 80's have wow & flutter of .05 or better, and SNR 65dB ++. These tables are W & F = .2 & SNR 50dB !!! This is absolutely unacceptable per usual turntable performance standards.
Those AT turntables actually have 0.25 NOT .025 W&F. As listed on Audio Technica's site. AT turntables are mfg'd by same Co. as Crosley. Absolute Garbage
@@fickfehler3866 Wrong two times. First, the ATLP120 and 140 have a W&F spec of 0.2% The specs are on their website: www.audio-technica.com/en-us/turntables/type/direct-drive/at-lp140xp www.audio-technica.com/en-us/at-lp120-usb Second, those Audio Technica turntables are made by Hanpin, while most of the Crossley turntables (like the Crosley Cruizer and C10) are made by Skywin and Pro-Ject.
You won't be able to hear the real quality from youtube cause the video files are so heavily compressed. Also it won't sound nothing like live audio from any video file.
I had the noise on my AT120 and finally found a fix. I fitted 100 ohm resistors in series with the 3 drive lines to the motor coils. No more noise but the down side is less torque from the motor and it takes a full revolution to get to speed. I was planning to reduce the resistor values to see if I could get better torque and still keep the motor silent but haven't had the time.
I have an AT240 with the same problem. Planning to try a Herbie's mat but haven't ordered it yet.
Also bought an AT record weight that has its own benefits, but not for this problem.
Can anyone explain why resistors would affect a rhythmic thumping sound? Strange.
Maybe you'd be kind enough to show the open body from below when it's open and if it requires soldering. Thanks
D Lee, can you tell me where on the PCB you put the 100 o resistors, do the drive lines have some component # to go on ?
@@manFromPeterborough only just looked back and saw your reply. Will find the info if you are still interested.
@@davegleeful I'm still interested in the motor fix, the preamp filters have been removed and AS spring replaced, I've since moved on to the LP140XP, it's a much better TT, only problems - Out of the Box is noisy mains transformer and tonearm shield connected to mains earth, I've put in a toroid TF and disconnect the jack panel from mains earth
@@manFromPeterborough I've a few photos of the modification but I took out links J124, J125 & J126 and replaced them with 100 ohm resistors. These stopped the noise but dramatically reduced torque, maybe smaller resistors would have been better but I didn't have stock at the time. These 3 links run from the chip that drives and controls the motor, each line drive a pair of coils that sit on the PCB under the motor platter, 6 coils total.
had a AT120 and know the noise very well im glad to see its finally been fixed
My 120USB;s collection will be going bye bye, with the AS fixed up and low pass filters removed, the pulsing noise and buzz pickup still annoy me and tonearm curve not accurate, cart needs to be twisted in slightly to meet Baerwald protractor alignment and the onboard preamp is always connected in parallel when using phono out
I love the AT 140!!! I agree 100% that the 120 looks better but I can sacrifice looks to save 800.00 per turntable if I were buy Technics, LOL
Thanks for the video, Humberto. I also heard the motor noise from my AT120USB. I refer to it as "cogging". The direct-drive motor is essentially "pulsing" the platter to maintain speed. I spoke with Audio Technica about it, and they told me it was normal for this turntable model, and that they weren't going to do anything about it. Their lackadaisical answer troubled me, so I switched to a belt-driven Fluance turntable. Problem solved.
Subsequently, I learned that other customers complained about the same issue, and a reasonable solution was to use a heavy disk stabilizer (such as the AT816). By adding the extra weigh, it helped to maintain the rotational inertia and eliminated the cogging sound.
In your video, you mentioned that the platter on the AT140XP was heavier, so that might explain how Audio Technica addressed the issue. For me, I've kept my AT120USB so that I can digitize LPs, and I've successfully converted several.
They fixed the issue with the lp120x.
@@billholb1974You took the words out my mouth. I have the 120x and it is a good turntable.
I never fully grasped audio fidelity until watching this. Luckily I only purchase audio equipment based on appearances.
this video is what I have been looking for, thanks Humberto.
I've had the updated LP-120x for a while now and haven't heard this motor noise that everyone is talking about. Using a heavy disc stabilizer or ohm resistors will certainly help with the noise in due time. But to be honest I'm not really worried because I close the case and walk away from it when I'm listening to it. My surround sound setup is about 25 feet away from the turntable where I chill out on the couch and I can't see myself ever hearing this motor noise.
I heard it in this video which means it came through it's audio output, and gets amplified
You have the older 120 model. Now there is 120X with upgraded appearance and gears. It seems the 140 shares things from that 120X
As someone who used the AT120's to DJ on that 'thud' sound became even mire apparent when back-cueing or spinning the record. You could actually feel it under the platter, it sounded like the motor was overloading and would skip the records all the time
Issue seems to be fixed on the 120x version.
I have heard that motor noise on both the 120 and the AT-LP-5... I got rid of both.
The newer 120 that I have does not make any noise at all. I notice mine is newer because my 120 does not have a pop up light. It is a set light.
I had a newer 140 and returned it because I could personally hear no sound difference between it and the 120. I liked the looks of the 120 better also and the price was better.
Nice review. I have the newer 120X and can't hear anything like that. Perhaps they fixed whatever was causing it?
I have the 120x and it flawless so far. I added a cork mat and Ortofon Blue cart and it sounds pretty damn good for the money.
@@jeffcsMN I agree-the 120 is a good value and a good TT.
But, having had both, I can say that the 140 is worth the upgrade. OF COURSE the tone arm of the 140 is metal, despite what he makes you wonder about it here. It just looks different. And btw, I prefer the matte look of the 140:tone arm, and the overall look of the 140. Frankly, he’s not doing it justice here, for, in the way that he has his camera angled, he has it a bit farther away from the camera than the 120. This is a classic sales technique-put the one you want them to choose closer, and they will be much more likely to choose it.
So if you’re happy with the 120, great! But know that when you’re ready to upgrade, the 140 is worth the step up.
I just had a chance to view and touch one AT-LP140XP myself. It just felt... Not entirely right. At startup it initially struggled to lock to speed but it was steady afterwards.
Tonearm... well, vertical movement was smooth when zero balanced, without any resistance. No play in bearings. But lateral movement was jerky. The tonearm had springy and resistive behavior in any point where I placed it over platter. Giving a breath didn't make it move. This led me to decision to stay away from this deck.
Did you try the placing damping material on six contact points of the black motor mount circular plate. The damping material will prevent the motor noise from transmitting to the plinth and then to the tone arm. You may have to keep the circular plate screws off since the motor noise will transmit through them and then to the plinth.
My 120 makes that very slight start up noise. I was never bothered by it since record surface noise practically drowns it out.
I have the 140 and I love it. Great for mixing, do not need technics
i have the 120 usb and at start up it makes a motor noise, like Woo Woo Woo and it repeats very faint but cant unhear it. But its my goto over my belt driven Pioneer PL30-k upstairs which i like as well.
As owner of both of them I feel the 140 has cheaped out on design and feeling but has a better motor than the lp120. Output level is related ofc to what stylus you use. As i am a DJ they are both fitted with Ortofon Mix MK2. The 140 doesn't have that motor sound but it has a buzzing sound from the power supply. It is audible especially in more quiet environments. Sound quality is a bit better on the lp140 and this is mainly because it doesn't have a line ouput wich delivers the sound unprocessed. Both have advantages and disadvantages. On the lp140 every button/switch feels cheap, the target light goes up very slow and you need to press the release button 4-5 times for it to retract completly, i just stopped closing it since it's bad...also the power on swich on the lp140 is very stiff, you feel it will break at some point or stop working. Since the lp120 was discontinued and the 120x is worst than the original 120 the obvious option is to go with the 140 as there is no other option in this price range that would make sense (at least for me). I also want to point out that the lp120's made from december 2017 onwards have the anti-skating fixed. Those models have the HS10 upgraded headshell instead of the original HS1. I feel the anti-skating on the lp140 is way too agressive (had a hard time calibrating the tonearm even with the anti-skating on 0)
@Andrei Coada Glad I found your comment. I knew the anti-skate had been fixed but I've never known since when so thank you for that clarification. I have the 120 USB and I've heard removing the pre-amp can have positive impact on sound quality. Do you know if this is true? Always looking to get a little bit more out of what I have! Thanks, have a day!
@@gregoryconnors7370 in my opinion it's not a big deal, i am using phono output since i have it connected to the mixer. I am not sure if all the hassle is worth the time for a minor difference. You will also lose the ability to rip vinyls via the usb (wich I do)
First.
Have you been doing any broadcasting during the pandemic? How is the transmitter doing?
Transmitter is good. Not much real broadcasting since work is crazy with pandemic, but I did get a new mod monitor that I needed to refurb so I have run the transmitter more for testing purposes, but mostly into a dummy load.
The unwanted sound you hear from the 120 may be may be a defective part in that particular example and not indicative of all examples of that model. The features are all the same but for the added 2 on the 140 which lacks an inbuilt phono pre-amp...It may be that the 120 has an internal phono pre-amp absent in the 140, that enhances any electrical noise.
I've used four different units of this model, and all four of them had this issue.
Logically, the difference of price between the two turntables is in things like the ambiental noise reduction to start to play the machine. To me, personally, It doesn't matter
Interesanting, Humberto, what you explain about the visual and the musical differences between these two turntables. I havre to buy one of them. Yes, the 120 model is nicer but yes the 140 model is silent. I should have appreciated to listen few seconds with them with the same album. But congratulations for this beautiful presentation. My choice : I really do not know again. The 120 is much more nicer. But we listen the music. Hello from the north (Québec) !
What about preamp the 120x has a preamp the 140 doesn’t
Yes correct, the 120 has a built-in preamp. I use a very vintage ATI P-100 as the preamp for the 140. I don't think the 120’s preamp has anything to do with the motor noise. Saying this because the preamp is always on when the turntable power is on (Rotary switch), but the noise occurs only when the motor is on (square button).
Can you listen italo disco on 140? At homme...? I think it would sounds great. Can you compare 140 with Tensai td 760qz? It's from 1979. I think. In the point of sound.
Best wishes
Brilliant comparison 👏
Hey I have a question about the lp140, I’ve read reviews saying that the platter slightly tilts when the hand is on the record, I also read reviews that say they don’t tilt or wobble? Does the platter also stop when the hand is on the record even with a slip mat? Would like a response from you, thanks 🙏🏽
Hi Mizrach. Does the platter tilt? With enough weight, yes, a very tiny little, but also the legs on the whole body compress given enough weight. That said, this is not something I've noticed before. Does the platter stop? If your hand is on the side of the record no, if it's on the top of the record, yes.
Hey Humberto thanks for your response! Regarding if the platter stops, I should of made myself clear, I’m guessing you have the rubber mat on the platter? I was referring to ‘back cueing’ the record with a slip mat when mixing. I’ve read comments saying the motor isn’t strong enough. I’ve seen other videos on the lp140 where they are being mixed on & scratched with and from what I have seen it gets the job done! I’ve ask those guys questions but they never got back to me. Thanks again for your response!
@@DoubleRock4000 I have the felt mats on these, not rubber. I'm not sure what "back cuing" means as opposed to cueing, but if it's cueing while the turntable platter is actually turning under power, and you move the record with your hand on it's edge, yes this turntable can do that. Is the turntable platter moving at exactly the right 33 RPM while you're doing this? No, but it's probably like 95% of the right RPM.
Haha I guess cueing & back cueing is the same, basically just trying to find the cue point of the track or pulling the record back without the platter slowing down.
I Just ordered a lp140 to demo & will see how it goes!
Side note: i do mixing and own a pair of AT-LP1240, they are great but not technics great! One of the tonearm on the deck is wobbly but they are still going! I just want to add a 2nd pair of decks to mix on. I like the look of the lp140. The lp1240 looks funky! Audio Technica turntables can be great if they had great Quality Control!
here is a video of the wobbly platter, I don’t know if he just didn’t put the platter on correctly or he had a bad table?
ruclips.net/user/shortsCHJN6_T0hNI?feature=share
Can the 120 be used for DJn ,scratching and beat juggling applications ?
I can't say for sure, but If you can scratch and beat juggle with a Technics 1200 then I don't see why you couldn't with a 120
Yes, the 120 is a DJ favorite because of the price. The 140's are only couple of years old as a new model so the feedback will be just as good if not better in the coming years. I started to learn on these about 6 months ago and every day I get better and better at DJ'ing.
@@mortgageminion8109 HI. thanks. Would you be to do a video on abit of scratching n mixing on the 120. I'm not so much into beat juggling.
Do you talk about the torque? I heard the 140 has a super oem motor?
The only torque I know how to measure is degrees to full speed and honestly they seem about the same - about a 1/5 turn. That said, the 140's platter is heavier so the motor must be a bit more torque'ier .
A very interesting and informative video. Thanks.
I also have both turntables and have tried everything mentioned here to stop the motor noise of the 120 to no avail. I do hoever have a high pitched noise if I set my needle down on the 140 when the record is not running and sometimes further on in the record it will show. I think this is a vibration of the transformer which is built in in the 140 but external in the 120 but have not taken it apart to confirm it. I Don't know if anyone else has noticed this noise? I can't even bring myself to use the 120 because it's such a piece of junk .
very good video, very helpful for me, I have the atlp 120, and I want the atlp140 if it is really an upgrade in sound and performance, I have exactly the same problem with that annoyng noise you mention, I'm asking a big favour here, can you help me decide? please
My main complaints about the atlp120 are:
1. The noise you mention in your video (But this one I can see that it is fixed on the atlp140
2. Anti Skating on the atlp120 is non-existent
3. Sometimes in some LPs, at the beginning or between the songs where there's silence, it seems to be an interruption in the signal, as it was disconnected for less than a second, but several times between the songs, and then, when the next song starts, the signal is on again.
Since you have both TTs, would you be so king to check and tell me if those problems are fixed on the atlp140? If they are I'll definitely get one.
Thanks in advance
If I had the option to go back in time with what I now know about the 140 I would buy it again in a heartbeat. It is quiet. It does have a sunken tonearm and it's anti skating does work (I didn't mention that in the video, but it's true the 120 anti skating is terrible and the 140 anti skating does work). Regarding the cutting out audio, I never had that issue with my 120, but since the 120 has a built in pre-amp, I'd bet your issue is with that, or if you are using the 120's USP, that converter might be the problem. The 140 is more like an old school set up - it does NOT have a USB and it needs an external pre-amp, just FYI. If I was you, I'd feel good abut getting the 140.
The "thump" noise has been fixed. They are basically the same unit. The main difference is the cartridge. The 140 comes with a better one but a preamp is needed. The 120 comes with a really good one and no preamp is needed but you can buy one if you want. In short, you'd be spending less money if you bought the 120 and bought a seperate cartridge, I recommend the Ortofon 2M Red, or 2M Blue. The 2M Blue is very nice.
@@humbertowrigolini578 The 120 has a wanky muting circuit that chops up long low fade outs, the last 2 tracks on S4 of Sky 2 album
Which one sounds better?
I am agonizing over one of the two
What is your choice?
Easy one - the 140 is better all around, though you may need a phone preamp unless whatever you are feeding has a phono input.
@@humbertowrigolini578
oh...140 better than 120
but l used 140 need preamp?
@@etj8709 yes, 140 is better. Regarding preamp, it depends on what the turntable is plugged into. If you are plugging this into something that's labeled "Phono" then you don't need a separate phone pre-amp. If you are plugging it into something labeled "Line" then you will need a phono pre-amp. So it all depends on what you are plugging the turntable into.
@@humbertowrigolini578 I am not using phono
Connect the aux cable to the speaker and use it
Still Is 140 better than 120 though?
@@etj8709 yes, the 140 is still better even if you need a separate phone pre-amp. Needing a separate pre-amp is additional cost and another thing in the audio chain, but the sound quality is still better than the 120 (at least it is for me).
I'm not DJ and just want an inexpensive TT for a second/third system. The more I see of these videos I'm thinking that a Pro-Ject Debut Evo will be a better fit for another $150 over the AT140. It also comes with a Sumiko cartridge installed. Just saying.
I believe the Pro-Ject is a belt drive turntable, and of course that brings up the age old belt drive vs direct drive discussion which IMHO is all about preference, because neither is scientifically fully better than the other. They are just different. For whatever reason, I am a direct drive guy, not sure why, just am. That said, the Pro-Ject turntables seem to have a very good reputation and look great too.
What to buy today in 2014? 120 or 140?
It's been a long time since I did this review, and a lot may have changed between then and now. Even then the 120 was fine. Probably still is.
How is he starting and stopping the turntable without using the button?
Each turntable is specially wired up to have a remote start/stop. It's essentially custom wiring to have a duplicate start/stop button via custom wiring in the back.
thats the older 120 with the popup stylus light
Cual es m jor oara djs de eventos grandes??
AT 140
Can you tell me if the materials of both turntable case are the same? In 120 I know that is plastic.
Apart from that, do you think that the sound is because the platter of 140 have like a "rubber" protector, in the internal side of the platter, making it heavier and less noisy. In case that this is the only difference, do you think that I can modify my platter of the 120 to add this kind of "rubber"?. Thanks!
The boxes on both the 120 and 140 are made of the same type of plastic. As far as modifying a 120's platter to add a rubber layer similar to the 140's platter: I can't say I know for sure, but my guess is it would do no good, for three reasons. 1. I am not sure what the "rubber" is actually made of. It seems especially heavy for simple rubber. 2. Even if you could find out what material actually is, you might have issues making sure you cut it perfectly so you kept the balance of the platter. 3. and most significant, if I'm right and most of my noise is generated by the motor itself, adding a layer of rubber to the platter does not change the fact the motor is directly connected to the platter by a metal to metal connection and any noise would still be transmitted up through that connection.
That all said, I could be wrong and it wouldn't hurt to try.
@@humbertowrigolini578 The vinyl rescue guy tried everything to quieten his 120USB, finally gave up on it and bought a Rega P2 and has deleted all his vids of the 120
how did u start the turntable under the table ???
I wired in a remote start. Custom job, and I essentially soldered in additional contacts with the existing contacts on the start button.
Sorry people but as a DJ with 40 years experience, I cannot recommend this turntable for any use. I have a brand new Technics SL1200 MK2 strictly for play back only in my house. I have never heard any 1200 suffer cogging or noise of any type. I have been setting/installing the 1200s for years. I got a grooveless 12 inch test disc after I had adjusted all the basics...angle of attack, weight and anti skate and using an Ortofon blue cartridge tested my results. Apart from the obvious friction between the stylus and the test disc, there was no noise what so ever. By the time I had turned the volume up to acoustic feedback level, if id had a real 12 inch single playing, I would have been deafened and my speakers would have been toast! If you don't have a test disc, carefully put a CD on your turntable shiny side up and centre it. Make sure you've calibrated your turntable properly and the effect is the same. I tried it myself and it works. The 3 phase hooting on the Audio Technica can be heard 3 metres away. Another guy bought one but didn't bother to unbox it. He had no intention of setting it up. He only wanted to see if the same problem existed which it did. He returned it the next day. The SL1200 MK2 is a great work horse but used as an audiophile deck for home use is perfect. Why are companies releasing their turntables that look exactly like a 1200? Because they're a perfectly machined piece of art. Opinions?
Interesting comment. I'm a beginner DJ and I'm planning to go over turntables very soon and I'm looking for a decent entry level turntables and I been interested in the LP140px, they look nice to play at home and maybe take them to some gigs and I've been reading a lot of reviews the last two weeks but I'm still a bit unsure. Also it's half of the price of a pair of Technics SL1210 mk7 (though I can afford both). What would you recommend to a newbie in turntables? Make a good investment at once or go for the AT LP140px?
@@rodrigo_rscs I've seen too many faults with this deck. Start Stop button not working. Audible hooting from the motor/cogging using just your ears and acoustic feedback. I'd try for a new pair of 1200s. The MK 7 is cheap looking and the Pioneer Reloop suffers acoustic feedback compared to a 1200 MK2. The Stanton ST-150 is a great deck. It's heavy but has all the features you'd expect from a turntable. Cheers Andrew.
@@scratchback2001 Great, thanks for your answer!
My AT turntable is super quiet and no noise from the motor
Apparently, the 120X has a silent motor.
Audio Technicas are renown for their Microphones. Official Mic's for recent Olympic Games. They do make quality carts and styli. Maybe they are just made by contractors? So what are you trying to prove?
This ongoing discussion about Hi Fi is getting out of hand. FCS, we are only playing vinyl records. Then all you high end nut cases come out of the woodwork!
Less then 10 hours run time in the last 4 years? leave a car that long and you'll have more then a noise problem. I cant take this guy seriously, he's had them stripped, soldered wired them, fiddles with them, and have played less then 10 hours in 4 years. Its audiophile snobs like this that give the vinyl community that bad press, remember this, as you get older your hearing becomes more impaired, fact, so most of these audiophiles that claim to be able to tell the difference between a new cable or wire are a joke. A new generation are coming into the community with better hearing and less cynicism, its what the community needs not old farts who are never happy with sound and spend their lives fiddling with items instead of enjoying the sound they produce.
Thank you for this - good chuckle.
Heavy is good.
omg you voided the warranty before reviewing them... eeeek ! (jus'teasin')
Who's here after holding your phone to your ear to hear the noise he's talking about? Lol.
My 120 doesn’t have a thud, thud, thud, so maybe you got a dud?
I've used four of them. All four had this issue, as well as several others.
Meh it's an entry level Hanpin turntable.
No need to be surprised or shocked.
I started on Reloop RP-2000 MK3's about 12 years ago and they worked fine (it's the same Hanpin as the LP120 on the inside).
The Crosley C200 is the same Hanpin model as the RP-2000
@@TheGreenDoggoOfWisdom Yep, but that one is discontinued together with the C100 (which is belt drive version of the C200 and an equivalent of the RP-1000).
@@QoraxAudio It's kinda sad how Audio Technica cheapened the LP120X by straight up using a basic Hanpin model.
@@TheGreenDoggoOfWisdom I think they already used a Hanpin from the start of the LP120 models.
It's lame they chose to omit the VTA adjustment IMO.
But AFAIK, the AS spring is improved.
@@QoraxAudio The PL120 is better than the 120USB, preamp fully disconnect on phono mode and accurate tonearm curve
Wubba wubba. I hear it
The early 120s were pieces of crap honestly. No working antiskate and a non-switchable low pass filter in the audio path that had to be unsoldered manually if you wanted the full frequency spectrum. The 140 is the way better choice.
All I heard were 2 scratchy LPs LMFAO
On the AT-LP120, there were no improvements made in the last decade. The same problems: none working AS mechanism and motor cogging. AT-LP140 was newly designed, so something very different. Still, for just a third price of AT-LP140, you can find a very decent japanese direct-drive turntable from 80`s and it will not spoil in terms of mechanical parts. You will have to replace some capacitors and that is it!
Not sure why these Audio Technica's got such poor specs. The cheapest turntable from 1970's/ 80's have wow & flutter of .05 or better, and SNR 65dB ++. These tables are W & F = .2 & SNR 50dB !!! This is absolutely unacceptable per usual turntable performance standards.
and people still buy that junk
Lol... my turntable has >78dB SNR and 0.025% W&F
It's made in 2018.
Those AT turntables actually have 0.25 NOT .025 W&F. As listed on Audio Technica's site. AT turntables are mfg'd by same Co. as Crosley. Absolute Garbage
@@fickfehler3866 Those dummies live in an alternate reality. They've convinced themselves that SL-1200 knock off is a good turntable
@@fickfehler3866 Wrong two times.
First, the ATLP120 and 140 have a W&F spec of 0.2%
The specs are on their website:
www.audio-technica.com/en-us/turntables/type/direct-drive/at-lp140xp
www.audio-technica.com/en-us/at-lp120-usb
Second, those Audio Technica turntables are made by Hanpin, while most of the Crossley turntables (like the Crosley Cruizer and C10) are made by Skywin and Pro-Ject.
Dude, I just want to hear the sound quality 🙄
You won't be able to hear the real quality from youtube cause the video files are so heavily compressed. Also it won't sound nothing like live audio from any video file.
Sorry , couldn't get past the snap, crackle, pop of the dirty or misused records.
One crappy TT vs. another crappy TT.
If you had $500 to spend, what tt would you buy?