You forgot to upgrade the extruder with the dual geared bondtech extruder 😁 I was having so much freaking trouble with the stock extruder grinding filament and then having to disassemble it constantly, I've never had a problem with it since replacing with the bondtech extruder
LOL Well thank you Shannon for representing our female audience! :) Technically 1.6% should be around 5-10 but it is funnier to say it is my better 3/4 and my Mother watching lol.
*waving* Looking to buy my first 3D printer to make enclosures and mounts for my sensor electricnics. At work out project's visualization lead and 3D printing guru is female too. (She's a digital artist by trade.)
Actually I did some big updates to my Prusa mini now. The biggest one was to do the Dual-Z CK3D mod, wich I can highly recomment. With high quality lightweight extruders like the Orbiter, Sherpa, LGX light or TBG light, I see barly a reason to use a bowden setup anymore. Actually, after changing the hotend to the Revo micro, I also tried out Sherpa and TBG light (actually I like the TBG light more, but the Sherpa works great also). I decided for a moons motor - while both moons and lgo do great motors, moons use higher current (and therefore lower voltage), and as the controller controlls the current, I did not even have to change the current settings for the motor in prusas firmware (or in start g-code). But while the extruder is light compared to an mk3(s(+)) extruder, still adding weight to a conterlever design is not always the best. Also with the creality pad supporting the prusa mini out of the box, a mechanical stronger design for higher speeds seems apropiate. So adding a second z is absolutly an improvement (you have to modify ck3s's design a bit to work with a direct extruder, basicly cutting some conflicting plastic away (preferable in slicer before printing, but alternatively afterwarts with a drehmel). As I was modifying the printer anyways, I also changed the bearings to bushings - 2 IGUS bushings and one Ruthex bushing on y-axis, extremly silent and precise. Also one brass bushing and one self designed bushing with high clearence in z-direction for the printhead (actually, brass bushings have a very low tolarence fit; using two of them often leads the printhead to be stuck at the ends of the x-axis, if the two rods are only slightly missaligned by some micrometers). The self made bushing was simply changeing the hole of the bushing from a cylinder with 8mm diameter to two half-cylinders an a cube of 1mm by 8mm between - so you get a clearance of 1mm in z-direction and still a snug fit in x (so the printhead can not tilt). Actually while the printquality of the mini already was good, it improved further - and the mini became even more silent. Also I changed the coldend fan to a noctua (turning at a 100%, instead prusas fan with only 38%). I also plan to do the bed mod (physicaly level the bed). Also I search for a better part cooling (going faster with klipper would make that mandatory). For the cost of the upgrades the Revo system is a realy big deal. While the basic set is "just" about 150 bucks, one Obxidian is now about 74€. So with 0.4 and 0.6 Obxidian the price nearly doubles (but I have multiple printers and do not print abrasives on all of them the same time, so I only have one ObXidian set for now). Actualy there is realy an alternative to the Revo: Trianglelabs have the CHC-system. It is a bit simular to Prusas nextruder, you can swap out the heatbreak, heater and nozzle by disconnecting the two plugs and loosening one screw.There is also an integrated nozzle/heatbreak combo (for non-abrasive filament), but you can still use seperate nozzle and heatbreak - any v6-compatible nozzle will do. The CHC micro is about 40€, including 1 heater, 1 nozzle and 1 heatbreak. Aditional heaters are about 20€, integrated nozzles about 8€, seperate heatbreaks about 7€. Having multiple heaters means you can assemble your own combination once and than swap the whole combo - but still, if your nozzle or heatbreak or heater have a defect, you can just change the defective part. Also you have more flexibiltity - combine the heatbreak with a CHT nozzle, or a tungsten carbite or a ruby nozzle - whatever you want or already have. As they have a CHC with a coldend compatible to the Revo micro, you can use every hotend design intendend for the Revo micro also for Tranglelabs CHC micro (maybe very little modification to access the screw to loosen the heatbreak easy).
I actually did have to pull out the soldering iron when I replaced my mk3 hot end. I accidentally ripped the fan off. So I had to solder it back together. lol
Those fans can be VERY fragile, but also, thankfully, they are not too expensive should you need to replace it. Soldering is a great skill to know though!
@@3DMusketeers A few years ago I fixed a commodore 64 made in 1985. (made from 82 to 92). I only broke one trace and damaged one. So there is just a single bodge wire on the board that is otherwise pristine. Thanks to me buying a heat gun for helping with support removal in 3d printing (rarely needed, but when I need it it's amazing) I suspect if I had done the same repairs now the heat gun would have prevented the damage. But hey it works so I can't complain. It's a nearly 40 year old computer. lol It even has a functional SID (sound chip). A working SID isn't common these days. So it's a bit of a gem. There are modern replacements, but it's just cool to have original parts. It's all original commodore parts except for a single chip that is using a period accurate replacement.
16.30 - there is a lot of movement in the assembly, is that normal or something wasn't tighten yet? A comparison of prints (before and after) would've been nice.
Thinking of doing a dual-z axis mod on my Mini now I have a Mk4. I’ve always had trouble getting the x-axis properly level and I think this would help!
I'm really late getting to see this and hopefully you could still answer my question. I have the Bondtech extruder on my machine and definitely like the sounds of the Revo kit. Would I still need or can I still use the MM10 piece that you mentioned with that extruder? Any help would be greatly appreciated before I go and start printing parts before I order stuff.
Havent used my mini for a couple of months. Then upgraded firmware to the 5.1 and wanted to print something. Blower fan stopped working. With the spare fan I could prove that the original fan is indeed broken (so no firmware issue I would say). But heck, it came out of nowhere to me now : /
There is a 12v and 24v version of the Micro. How do you decide which to use? Also, if you commit to the Micro system,can you still use an E3d Nozzle X or are you committed to the Micro nozzle system because of their setup?
Why do you provide a link for the coupler needed for MM10 upgrade when it's a PC4-M10 as the two included with the Capricorn Bowden Tube w/ Cutter link? Something wrong with the PC4-M10 couplers from Capricorn?
Its a 0.4mm so it should perform as you would expect. I can run a benchy! Wont be able to do a fancy timelapse for it, but I will set up a cam tonight and add it into a future vid or something
What would be your recommended options of I wanted to print some abrasive material filament with my mini? I like the upgrade here but want to have the option to print carbon filament from time time but can’t find any hardened nozzles for the Revo.
I don’t think I’d be printing abrasive a lot bit there may be points where I need the more robust material. I use the printer for prototyping and designing parts to be used functionally as part of designs and my inventions.
@@3DMusketeers I’ve been doing a ton of research and will definitely go with the Revo Micro! Your video was awesome, thank you. I have my upgrades mapped out for the mini now; Revo Micro, Bondtech IFS extruder and Capricorn tubing. Of course it doesn’t NEED that but the whole heater core/quick change nozzle system seems like a winner to me. I’ll pick up an ObXidian nozzle when it comes out. Thanks again.
Much tighter tolerances on the bowden. They make both 1.9 and 2.0mm inner diameter. You may not think the 1.9 matters, but it means less slop in the system resulting in cleaner retracts and detracts.
@@3DMusketeers I started a 28 hour print on Sunday. Almost half of it would have color swaps. It was working fine. Then I went to bed and woke up to discovery roughly an hour after I went to bed it got stuck for the first time. I fixed it, went to work came home and it was still printing. It completed successfully with only a single MMU2 failure. It's so random.
yeah I did my best on my cable management on my mk3, but it looks like a rats nets. Fortunately outside the box it's very clean. I'm happy with that at least, but I'm like......I did everything the manual said and yet it looks like a rats nest.
@@3DMusketeers It makes it hard to work on. After I fried my hot end the new one didn't work. Then I realized I blew a fuse (and yes I checked the original hot end with a multimeter it was definitely dead) and getting those fuses out with that rat's nest was not trivial. But in the pictures they have it clean and pristine. lol
The revo, cap tube, MM10. Makes the machine more reliable, less pieces of bowden tube, easier to change nozzles, etc. All quality of life, not requirements
@@3DMusketeers The info I personally was missing was one or two sentences after your intro(and ask) saying what the upgrade is/does and why I should do it or list a few benefits. I appreciate your content and thank you for your response! *subscribed* PS. Maybe it was worked in there somewhere already and I just missed it.
maybe? It was a while ago lol.. I dont remember. Because the video is filmed all at once, and normally not out of order, I may not know 100% what we will get done so the lists are hard to put in the beginning. As we get larger and the channel can self sustain (it currently is a net loss monthly for me) then we will look at bringing in a writer to help keep me on track and make sure I say what I need to say.. Hilariously I have to re-film some if not all of this Wednesday's video because I TOTALLY FORGOT it is Sept 21 lol. I am a massive Earth Wind and Fire fan too.. I have failed. lol. Had there been a writer to help, I would have not missed that note in my talking points ha ha!
@@3DMusketeers I don't understand what you mean about why you may have to re-film this Wednesday's video. I did just listen to Earth Wind and Fire - September, a great classic!
Removes their bowden system using the brass nuts and goes to a more traditional setup using the couplers most of us all know and are used to. Also allows for easier changes in the tubing should that be needed.
nope. no need, not at least in my experience and the first prints we did with it were 2 days of polycarb pieces lol. But we did have to adjust the pinda mount about 2-3mm up to not have it hit the print bed.
@@3DMusketeers Good to know. I have two Minis currently and I've upgraded them only to the Bondtech w/IFS. I have two Revos waiting for I am torn on whether to do it yet as they are printing fine otherwise. I am truly amazed at how well they just print with stock settings. Oddly enough both units I had issues with the stock extruders loading filament. It would never grab the filament to do the initial fast feed no matter what I did. And then I would have to do 7-8 purges to finally get the filament up to the nozzle.
It they are fine, leave them alone IMO. Ours was fine, admittedly, I just wanted to do it for a video. I am glad I did. The performance is much better, and with less bowden tube it is so much easier to maintain! That issue you had was because of the multiple pieces of bowden tube in the extruder not being PERFECTLY aligned from being slightly too tight. That MM10 upgrade gets rid of all of it!
@@3DMusketeers That makes sense. My second Mini came yesterday and I was going to run it bone stock at first just to ensure everything was working but I for the life of me could not get the filament loaded. Also I do love the integration of the IFS in the body with Bondtech. Prusa's design of it just hanging there was kinda meh for me.
You lost me at "Hi my one female viewer, probably my mom". Females 3D Print too, but thanks for invalidating my love for the hobby in such a typical manner.
That is a big joke as most content creators are 90+% male but we have over 1/3 of our audience is female. My mother also likes when I say hi to her in videos.. I am sorry it made you feel that way, it was not intended and a simple joke.
You forgot to upgrade the extruder with the dual geared bondtech extruder 😁 I was having so much freaking trouble with the stock extruder grinding filament and then having to disassemble it constantly, I've never had a problem with it since replacing with the bondtech extruder
I have not had issues with that just yet. But yes, if you do, then do it.
Great vid, I was thinking about doing this exact upgrade to mine. Thanks for the walk through!
Absolutely! Glad we could help!
I am guessing I might be the lone female and I’m neither of those people. 😂 Great video.
LOL Well thank you Shannon for representing our female audience! :) Technically 1.6% should be around 5-10 but it is funnier to say it is my better 3/4 and my Mother watching lol.
*waving* Looking to buy my first 3D printer to make enclosures and mounts for my sensor electricnics. At work out project's visualization lead and 3D printing guru is female too. (She's a digital artist by trade.)
Actually I did some big updates to my Prusa mini now. The biggest one was to do the Dual-Z CK3D mod, wich I can highly recomment. With high quality lightweight extruders like the Orbiter, Sherpa, LGX light or TBG light, I see barly a reason to use a bowden setup anymore. Actually, after changing the hotend to the Revo micro, I also tried out Sherpa and TBG light (actually I like the TBG light more, but the Sherpa works great also). I decided for a moons motor - while both moons and lgo do great motors, moons use higher current (and therefore lower voltage), and as the controller controlls the current, I did not even have to change the current settings for the motor in prusas firmware (or in start g-code).
But while the extruder is light compared to an mk3(s(+)) extruder, still adding weight to a conterlever design is not always the best. Also with the creality pad supporting the prusa mini out of the box, a mechanical stronger design for higher speeds seems apropiate. So adding a second z is absolutly an improvement (you have to modify ck3s's design a bit to work with a direct extruder, basicly cutting some conflicting plastic away (preferable in slicer before printing, but alternatively afterwarts with a drehmel).
As I was modifying the printer anyways, I also changed the bearings to bushings - 2 IGUS bushings and one Ruthex bushing on y-axis, extremly silent and precise. Also one brass bushing and one self designed bushing with high clearence in z-direction for the printhead (actually, brass bushings have a very low tolarence fit; using two of them often leads the printhead to be stuck at the ends of the x-axis, if the two rods are only slightly missaligned by some micrometers). The self made bushing was simply changeing the hole of the bushing from a cylinder with 8mm diameter to two half-cylinders an a cube of 1mm by 8mm between - so you get a clearance of 1mm in z-direction and still a snug fit in x (so the printhead can not tilt).
Actually while the printquality of the mini already was good, it improved further - and the mini became even more silent.
Also I changed the coldend fan to a noctua (turning at a 100%, instead prusas fan with only 38%).
I also plan to do the bed mod (physicaly level the bed). Also I search for a better part cooling (going faster with klipper would make that mandatory).
For the cost of the upgrades the Revo system is a realy big deal. While the basic set is "just" about 150 bucks, one Obxidian is now about 74€. So with 0.4 and 0.6 Obxidian the price nearly doubles (but I have multiple printers and do not print abrasives on all of them the same time, so I only have one ObXidian set for now).
Actualy there is realy an alternative to the Revo: Trianglelabs have the CHC-system. It is a bit simular to Prusas nextruder, you can swap out the heatbreak, heater and nozzle by disconnecting the two plugs and loosening one screw.There is also an integrated nozzle/heatbreak combo (for non-abrasive filament), but you can still use seperate nozzle and heatbreak - any v6-compatible nozzle will do. The CHC micro is about 40€, including 1 heater, 1 nozzle and 1 heatbreak. Aditional heaters are about 20€, integrated nozzles about 8€, seperate heatbreaks about 7€. Having multiple heaters means you can assemble your own combination once and than swap the whole combo - but still, if your nozzle or heatbreak or heater have a defect, you can just change the defective part. Also you have more flexibiltity - combine the heatbreak with a CHT nozzle, or a tungsten carbite or a ruby nozzle - whatever you want or already have.
As they have a CHC with a coldend compatible to the Revo micro, you can use every hotend design intendend for the Revo micro also for Tranglelabs CHC micro (maybe very little modification to access the screw to loosen the heatbreak easy).
Do not support Triangle Labs, they just clone everyone.
I actually did have to pull out the soldering iron when I replaced my mk3 hot end. I accidentally ripped the fan off. So I had to solder it back together. lol
Those fans can be VERY fragile, but also, thankfully, they are not too expensive should you need to replace it. Soldering is a great skill to know though!
@@3DMusketeers A few years ago I fixed a commodore 64 made in 1985. (made from 82 to 92). I only broke one trace and damaged one. So there is just a single bodge wire on the board that is otherwise pristine. Thanks to me buying a heat gun for helping with support removal in 3d printing (rarely needed, but when I need it it's amazing) I suspect if I had done the same repairs now the heat gun would have prevented the damage. But hey it works so I can't complain. It's a nearly 40 year old computer. lol It even has a functional SID (sound chip). A working SID isn't common these days. So it's a bit of a gem. There are modern replacements, but it's just cool to have original parts. It's all original commodore parts except for a single chip that is using a period accurate replacement.
Okay, that is pretty cool! Love keeping old electronics alive
16.30 - there is a lot of movement in the assembly, is that normal or something wasn't tighten yet? A comparison of prints (before and after) would've been nice.
foam feet.
Not differences in print quality so it was skipped. It just makes servicing easier
Thinking of doing a dual-z axis mod on my Mini now I have a Mk4. I’ve always had trouble getting the x-axis properly level and I think this would help!
I have never experienced that myself, but yeah, maybe it is a maintenance thing
Hi, I enjoyed your video, I own a voron 2.4 and actually building an Annex K3, but Prusa is a Prusa :P Your a nice talker!
One day MAYBE I will do a Voron build.. Likely a Fenrir from Maker Viking as he is a buddy :)
You forgot to do a test print. Would like to have seen that
it ran fine, but it also ran fine before any of the work so we ended up cutting it lol
@@3DMusketeers fair enough. Considering doing the same Mod, so was curious on how it would print, post modding.
Mine was working fine pre mod, so post I would feel it is just the same :) Just easier to maintain now ha ha
I'm really late getting to see this and hopefully you could still answer my question. I have the Bondtech extruder on my machine and definitely like the sounds of the Revo kit. Would I still need or can I still use the MM10 piece that you mentioned with that extruder? Any help would be greatly appreciated before I go and start printing parts before I order stuff.
that one I am not sure of as I dont have the bondtech upgrade, HOWEVER, the MM10 is a pretty easy print and not much material.
Hope we get a revo cht at some point down the line.
That would be cool! They are coming out with larger nozzles too, but wonder how that collab would work!
Great mod!
heck yeah it is!
Havent used my mini for a couple of months.
Then upgraded firmware to the 5.1 and wanted to print something.
Blower fan stopped working.
With the spare fan I could prove that the original fan is indeed broken (so no firmware issue I would say). But heck, it came out of nowhere to me now : /
Well that's a bummer! But gosh that firmware wakes up that machine though!
There is a 12v and 24v version of the Micro. How do you decide which to use? Also, if you commit to the Micro system,can you still use an E3d Nozzle X or are you committed to the Micro nozzle system because of their setup?
24v for prusa. The micro means you are required to use the Revo system.
Why do you provide a link for the coupler needed for MM10 upgrade when it's a PC4-M10 as the two included with the Capricorn Bowden Tube w/ Cutter link? Something wrong with the PC4-M10 couplers from Capricorn?
nope, the links change from time to time and we want to make sure people can get everything. Also, some have bowden tube already but no connectors :)
wow, cant believe it was that easy.
Staples is claiming copyright to that comment ;)
Isn't that USB drive that comes with the Mini kind of slow? It seems much slower than a newer USB drive I use.
i never noticed anything about it, but replacing it isnt an issue.
@@3DMusketeers Check out some other flash drives, you'll be impressed with the time difference.
I guess it has never really been a problem to me.
How does this update work out with the input shaper?
Works fine for me! Have a stock, one with the revo and they both love it.
Can you do a test print and show us how it goes?
Sure! What would you like to see?
@@3DMusketeers Probably just a benchy. Unless you can think of something that might challenge the new nozzle.
Its a 0.4mm so it should perform as you would expect. I can run a benchy! Wont be able to do a fancy timelapse for it, but I will set up a cam tonight and add it into a future vid or something
Can you provide a link to a E3D Revo Micro you recommend? I have a 24V Prusa Mini+.
It's just the revo micro. Nothing special :)
Does the new input shaper firmware still work? The weight and balance should have changed?
ran fine yesterday with no issues!
Do you need to change anything in the settings other than recalibrate Z?
Not in my experience. Make sure the Bowden is correct though or it'll change the initial load purge needed, but that's an easy thing to work around.
What would be your recommended options of I wanted to print some abrasive material filament with my mini? I like the upgrade here but want to have the option to print carbon filament from time time but can’t find any hardened nozzles for the Revo.
I don’t think I’d be printing abrasive a lot bit there may be points where I need the more robust material. I use the printer for prototyping and designing parts to be used functionally as part of designs and my inventions.
E3d is launching the Obxidian nozzles soon which is hardened for abrasives. That would be your option if you want the Revo system
@@3DMusketeers I’ve been doing a ton of research and will definitely go with the Revo Micro! Your video was awesome, thank you. I have my upgrades mapped out for the mini now; Revo Micro, Bondtech IFS extruder and Capricorn tubing. Of course it doesn’t NEED that but the whole heater core/quick change nozzle system seems like a winner to me. I’ll pick up an ObXidian nozzle when it comes out. Thanks again.
@@prongATO I have been using the revo on this mini for a whole. LOVING It.
I've heard capricorn boden tubes are a game changer. Could you explain why that is?
Much tighter tolerances on the bowden. They make both 1.9 and 2.0mm inner diameter. You may not think the 1.9 matters, but it means less slop in the system resulting in cleaner retracts and detracts.
@@3DMusketeers maybe that would help with the MMU2. It seems to be working well, but every now and then it gets stuck.
That is MMU2 life alas.. But yes, Capricorn tubing can be very helpful for that. It is pretty cheap too, so not an expensive test!
@@3DMusketeers I started a 28 hour print on Sunday. Almost half of it would have color swaps. It was working fine. Then I went to bed and woke up to discovery roughly an hour after I went to bed it got stuck for the first time. I fixed it, went to work came home and it was still printing. It completed successfully with only a single MMU2 failure. It's so random.
thats how it always happens right? it fails as SOON as you look away!
yeah I did my best on my cable management on my mk3, but it looks like a rats nets. Fortunately outside the box it's very clean. I'm happy with that at least, but I'm like......I did everything the manual said and yet it looks like a rats nest.
The manual is not specific other than make it fit, because ultimately these are not THAT sensitive to where it should matter.
@@3DMusketeers It makes it hard to work on. After I fried my hot end the new one didn't work. Then I realized I blew a fuse (and yes I checked the original hot end with a multimeter it was definitely dead) and getting those fuses out with that rat's nest was not trivial. But in the pictures they have it clean and pristine. lol
At least the fuse did it's job right? The MK3s is definitely difficult to work on. I wish it opened up the other way lol.
@@3DMusketeers yes when the new one didn't work I was worried it fried the board. So I'm very happy that it was the fuse.
yay properly protected motherboards!
I am half way through and still wondering what the upgrade is or what the purpose is?
The revo, cap tube, MM10. Makes the machine more reliable, less pieces of bowden tube, easier to change nozzles, etc. All quality of life, not requirements
@@3DMusketeers The info I personally was missing was one or two sentences after your intro(and ask) saying what the upgrade is/does and why I should do it or list a few benefits. I appreciate your content and thank you for your response! *subscribed*
PS. Maybe it was worked in there somewhere already and I just missed it.
maybe? It was a while ago lol.. I dont remember. Because the video is filmed all at once, and normally not out of order, I may not know 100% what we will get done so the lists are hard to put in the beginning. As we get larger and the channel can self sustain (it currently is a net loss monthly for me) then we will look at bringing in a writer to help keep me on track and make sure I say what I need to say..
Hilariously I have to re-film some if not all of this Wednesday's video because I TOTALLY FORGOT it is Sept 21 lol. I am a massive Earth Wind and Fire fan too.. I have failed. lol. Had there been a writer to help, I would have not missed that note in my talking points ha ha!
@@3DMusketeers I don't understand what you mean about why you may have to re-film this Wednesday's video. I did just listen to Earth Wind and Fire - September, a great classic!
We make videos 5 times a week. This Wednesday's video is on the 21st and I forgot to make EWF references! I have almost all their albums!
what does that extruder part upgrade do?
Removes their bowden system using the brass nuts and goes to a more traditional setup using the couplers most of us all know and are used to. Also allows for easier changes in the tubing should that be needed.
@@3DMusketeers thanks :)
Absolutely!
Did you find you had to re-run PID after the install?
nope. no need, not at least in my experience and the first prints we did with it were 2 days of polycarb pieces lol. But we did have to adjust the pinda mount about 2-3mm up to not have it hit the print bed.
@@3DMusketeers Good to know. I have two Minis currently and I've upgraded them only to the Bondtech w/IFS. I have two Revos waiting for I am torn on whether to do it yet as they are printing fine otherwise. I am truly amazed at how well they just print with stock settings.
Oddly enough both units I had issues with the stock extruders loading filament. It would never grab the filament to do the initial fast feed no matter what I did. And then I would have to do 7-8 purges to finally get the filament up to the nozzle.
It they are fine, leave them alone IMO. Ours was fine, admittedly, I just wanted to do it for a video. I am glad I did. The performance is much better, and with less bowden tube it is so much easier to maintain!
That issue you had was because of the multiple pieces of bowden tube in the extruder not being PERFECTLY aligned from being slightly too tight. That MM10 upgrade gets rid of all of it!
@@3DMusketeers That makes sense. My second Mini came yesterday and I was going to run it bone stock at first just to ensure everything was working but I for the life of me could not get the filament loaded. Also I do love the integration of the IFS in the body with Bondtech. Prusa's design of it just hanging there was kinda meh for me.
@@3DMusketeers Also thanks for the great content. Love your channel since I discovered it a few months ago.
Walmart Joel 👍
Walmart Joel?
@@3DMusketeers Maybe by accident, your mannerisms (and facial hair) resemble the 3D Printing Nerd's. It's a compliment
Umm thanks?
i'm doing well and i don't get the joke ngl lmao
Devo? No?
smack the shit out of it lmao sounds just like the way i think
gotta keep the printers in line!
Technically, content vise all good. Reception of you... Not my favourite kind of... Shouting. Cheers.
to each their own!
You lost me at "Hi my one female viewer, probably my mom". Females 3D Print too, but thanks for invalidating my love for the hobby in such a typical manner.
That is a big joke as most content creators are 90+% male but we have over 1/3 of our audience is female. My mother also likes when I say hi to her in videos.. I am sorry it made you feel that way, it was not intended and a simple joke.
14:10 michael_scott.gif
lol