Hey man, glad to hear its inspired/given confidence. Jump straight in and you will find your feet with it all. Plenty of help out there across the internet, Happy Printing!
A little late to the party but I bought a bag of silica packets and throw them into the bags with whatever I'm not printing with and haven't had any moisture issues!
@@MasonsWorkshop I mean, its funny if you think of how many RUclipsrs there are that have channels focused on 3d printing. I've yet to see another video that was CONCISE and to the point. That was NOT an infomercial. That presented material with brevity and relevance. I actually learned stuff here and feel that watching this video was a good value for my time. Thank you for doing this!@
Thank you very much. Comments like this are great to hear and make the videos very worth it! I’ve always loved RUclips for learning so it’s great to pass some knowledge forwards! All the best
Small hint about first layer: in the Prusa MINI firmware you can define multiple flexplates with different Live-Z offsets and simply switch between them. The smooth PEI plates need a much less offset because of the thickness of the glue and the PEI sheet. So for example for the smooth PEI I have usually around -0.500 and for the textured I have usually around -0.900 That is because the SuperPINDA is probing the metal sheet in the middle of the flexplate and the smooth one has a thick layer of glue (which the textured does not have). That is why maybe your ASA first layer was too much squished into the flexplate.
Hi Christoph, This is really good information and explains a lot. I was sat here thinking the Z height differences were purely filament based but it makes sense that the sheet has a large impact. I will definitely be making use of this feature to avoid that mistake again. Thanks !
@@MasonsWorkshop Yes I just wanted to comment the same here! The Z height is mostly affected by the swap from smooth to textured sheets. That's why from PETG to FLEX you had no issues, but moving to ASA with smooth surface (much thicker +/- 0.5mm) your nozzle was almost hitting the bed. Nice video!
Maybe try some PVB, It's a great filament for easy smoothing and clear prints, it also works really nice with 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles. Prusa has some informative and fun articles about PVB and bigger nozzles. PS. PETG might be a little bit more oozy but the sweet thing about it is that it is also one of the few materials you can easily sandpaper and finish, so it doesn't necessarily need the smoothest surface of the plate. Keep up the enthusiasm!
aw man. I'm sorry you had such issues with ASA. ASA is a great technical/outdoors filament. But you should've read the instructions. You should not have the same Live-Z set for the textured and the smooth sheet as they are NOT the same thickness. The new satin sheet is the best sheet for ASA, but for all the other filaments as well. All of these filaments will work great with the satin sheet. I don't know why it hasnt become the new standard sheet for the mini as it works absolutely stupid good for almost anything you throw at it. (ive tried PETG, CPE, PLA, ASA, ABS+, PC Blend and TPU)
haha yes, I definitley should of read the instructions..... But lesson learnt for the future. I will be ordering a satin sheet at some point, Ive just had a read up on it and it looks a nice upgrade!
Are there different settings for the different materials on this printer? Or do you manually adjust the settings? Is that what the calibration step is for?
When creating the G code, ie slicing your part in prusa slicer there is a drop down menu where you can select your material. This controls things such as nozzle temperature, bed temperature etc. the calibration I was focusing on was for the z height to ensure that I had a good squish with each layer of filament! Once you’ve used the slicer software a few times it becomes really simple!
@@MasonsWorkshop I saw a video of the mini with a stand built from printed parts. Do you know if those parts designs are open to use or if they cost money?
@@MasonsWorkshop our latest project CRC remote control car, use all of those mats. PLA, ASA, PETG and FLEX, and all parts are ready for PRUSA MINI. :), so perfect match with your video
Hi Hayden, Im glad you enjoyed the video. I would say my go to is the PLA for most prints, mainly due to speed and finish. A close second is the ASA for smaller technical parts!
@@hayden199516 Hi Hayden, Yes I cant see that being a problem. If not printing with an enclosure like myself I would take care with the design to avoid thin, tall areas to minimise warping. Being an air intake I cant imagine it being flimsy though so should be fine ! Ill be doing some videos soon focusing on each material in more detail, I plan to find the limit of what works and what doesnt on the mini! Happy printing
Hi Alexander, thanks for the comment. I think that the Prusa mini is capable of printing a ball bearing, but the function and longevity of it would be very dependant on its application !
@@MasonsWorkshop Hello. Yes I am agree with you. Bearing made by 3D print are just for fun. But they have also a special purpose: to confirm if the printer is flawless, or not. Actually, I have many printer. And among those, I have a mini Tiertime. She's 150µm thickness, less sharp than Genius Pro and Kingroon, and she's able to make any workable bearing of 30/40mm diameter. Actually, my other printers can not make a full quick working bearing. Only my tiertime can make it. I heard from a second hand market than someone tryied to print the bearing from thingiverse on a Prusa mini and said (I don't know if true or wrong) it was flawless. I know support and how they are engineered made a lot of difference of it (Tiertime slicer made the difference I guess). Anyway I tryied to use Prusa Slicer for generating Gcode, but the bearing failed. I have a video on my channel from 2014 about vulgarisation of first printers in France (Leroy Merlin imprimante 3D) and the printers of back in the day made perfect workable ballbearing. Now you know what I mean. Thank you a lot for all your nice video, you're a very nice guy. If interested, the bearing is "thingiverse thing 7127". If you wanted to try, please tell me about. If Prusa can make it, I will buy one immedialtely. Thanks for response.
Hi there, from my understanding this skirt line is to allow the printer to ensure the filament is fully extruded and running smooth before the first layer starts. I also like to think of it as a test line to ensure sizing, filament type, filament colour are all OK before the part printing commences.
Along with keeping the temp up, ASA should be printed in an enclosure, venting outside, as it contains Styrene and can be really dangerous to your health if you inhale it.
I am thinking of doing a comparison video, So far I have stuck only with Prusament but I am interested to see how others out there compare. Particularly the cheaper ones !
@@MasonsWorkshop It's not necessarily "how good is the material?". With Hatchbox/Overture/Amolen/eSun/Sunlu/Inland, the question is "how good is this roll?" That's really the advantage of buying Prusament and other premium filaments.
Yes that is a good point. I think the quality and reliability of the filament is key, I can’t see any point saving money if it’s a gamble to whether the filament is going to be creating good prints or not!
thinking about picking up myself the prusa mini plus as well. have you had any of the clogging issues that many have had? particularly the ptfe tube coming loose and causing a clog, especially with cheaper filaments. any issues with the extruder? also, is the noise level of the printer too loud to be next to you? i plan to have it placed next to me and wonder if it will be too loud as to be annoying or maybe disrupt my video calls too much. anyway, thank you for the great and informative video! you got yourself a new sub
Hi Alan, So far I have had one clogging issue.. this was when I very started. Since then, there’s been no clogging or extruding issues. I must say though I have only stuck with Prusament brand materials to minimise the risk of any issues. So far so good! In terms of noise, it really isn’t too bad. On the faster movements it can make a bit of a whirring noise but I sit in meetings with it running and it’s barely noticeable. However the trick of using a paving slab along with some high density foam as a base is supposed to really quieten it down so I will try that for sure!! Overall though I really recommend the machine. 90 percent of the mistakes I’ve made have been from lack of knowledge.
@@MasonsWorkshop woh thanks for the quick reply! And yeah I hear it performs best with high end filament. I also heard about the slab trick to quiet it down and if I do get this printer, I’ll Defintiely look into that! Thank you so much again for the insight and look forward to more of your content!
Since hes using mostly Prusament, the ideal temperature on the prusa mini is built into the slicer already, along with i beleive the other materials hes tried, and those have been tested at the factory to be about as good as reasonably possible
@@MasonsWorkshop I think that’s why it was so far off. The smooth sheet is quite a bit thicker I think. I just bought 14 minis.. have the first 3 set up and printing great.. the z offset threw me off though because the textured powder sheet is thin and I had to move the probe up to get the nozzle close.
Hi Yuri, yes I think if you keep a good ambient temperature when printing and consider the ASA limitations when designing your part there is no issue. An enclosure will always be an improvement though ! Ill be shooting some videos soon showing the design point when ASA starts to warp with no enclosure.
@@MasonsWorkshop maybe I will buy a photo-tent later on. It is not insulating perfectly ofc. But it is rather cheap, you can put it somewhere else, when not needed and no electronics/motors get harmed.
Hello, I agree. The Flex is a super cool material and I didnt show enough of the final product although this isnt the best print to show off its properties...... I can see a video coming in the near future with some flex content :)
Hi there, all of the materials printed in this video were Prusament except from the FLEX. From reading up, Prusament seems to be a reliable filament. With all things, there is some trial and error to get it working perfectly.
Man.. 564 subs? Underrated, you’ve got yourself a sub
Many many thanks! love seeing a comment like this. Appreciate the sub
Been wanting to dip my toe into 3d printing as a hobbyist. I really enjoyed this video, it boosted my confidence. Thanks brother.
Hey man, glad to hear its inspired/given confidence. Jump straight in and you will find your feet with it all. Plenty of help out there across the internet, Happy Printing!
The prusament bags are resealable! Don't use a knife to open them!
Wow I had no idea… Thanks for letting me know, won’t make that mistake again !
A little late to the party but I bought a bag of silica packets and throw them into the bags with whatever I'm not printing with and haven't had any moisture issues!
Awesome 🎉review!
Hey there, glad you enjoyed it !
@@MasonsWorkshop I mean, its funny if you think of how many RUclipsrs there are that have channels focused on 3d printing. I've yet to see another video that was CONCISE and to the point. That was NOT an infomercial. That presented material with brevity and relevance. I actually learned stuff here and feel that watching this video was a good value for my time. Thank you for doing this!@
Thank you very much. Comments like this are great to hear and make the videos very worth it! I’ve always loved RUclips for learning so it’s great to pass some knowledge forwards! All the best
Small hint about first layer: in the Prusa MINI firmware you can define multiple flexplates with different Live-Z offsets and simply switch between them.
The smooth PEI plates need a much less offset because of the thickness of the glue and the PEI sheet. So for example for the smooth PEI I have usually around -0.500 and for the textured I have usually around -0.900
That is because the SuperPINDA is probing the metal sheet in the middle of the flexplate and the smooth one has a thick layer of glue (which the textured does not have). That is why maybe your ASA first layer was too much squished into the flexplate.
Hi Christoph,
This is really good information and explains a lot. I was sat here thinking the Z height differences were purely filament based but it makes sense that the sheet has a large impact. I will definitely be making use of this feature to avoid that mistake again. Thanks !
@@MasonsWorkshop Yes I just wanted to comment the same here! The Z height is mostly affected by the swap from smooth to textured sheets. That's why from PETG to FLEX you had no issues, but moving to ASA with smooth surface (much thicker +/- 0.5mm) your nozzle was almost hitting the bed. Nice video!
@@ericksonpereira7443 Hi Erickson, Thanks for the feedback, 3D printing is a rapid learning curve !
@@MasonsWorkshop Trueeeeee. The sheet has a layer on it duh. Could probably measure it ya know...
Where? How? I can't find this option on mine
Cool video to give a quick overview of a machine I'm considering buying a trialing different materials. Flex being one of them. Thanks 👍
Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful. FLEX is a cool material and something I will use more, its much easier to print than I first thought.
Really interesting. Nice to see side-by-side. Thanks!
Hey Sherman, glad you liked the video !
Maybe try some PVB, It's a great filament for easy smoothing and clear prints, it also works really nice with 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles. Prusa has some informative and fun articles about PVB and bigger nozzles.
PS. PETG might be a little bit more oozy but the sweet thing about it is that it is also one of the few materials you can easily sandpaper and finish, so it doesn't necessarily need the smoothest surface of the plate. Keep up the enthusiasm!
That sounds like something I need to try! I also had no idea about being able to sand PETG! that is really handy. Thanks for the advice
great job...I just got a used Mini and I was wondering what materials other than PLA could I print. I am really interested in the ASA. Excellent work.
Hey there, Glad you liked the video! These prusa minis are great little machines
Great video mate very informative. Keep up the good work
Thanks Jeff, glad you found it useful, some more videos on the way
Nice video, mate! And such a nice hair as well... Cheers!
Thanks !
Thanks for this video, as I am a novice its awesome info...
Hey Dale, no problem, Im glad it was of help to you.
aw man. I'm sorry you had such issues with ASA. ASA is a great technical/outdoors filament. But you should've read the instructions. You should not have the same Live-Z set for the textured and the smooth sheet as they are NOT the same thickness.
The new satin sheet is the best sheet for ASA, but for all the other filaments as well. All of these filaments will work great with the satin sheet.
I don't know why it hasnt become the new standard sheet for the mini as it works absolutely stupid good for almost anything you throw at it. (ive tried PETG, CPE, PLA, ASA, ABS+, PC Blend and TPU)
haha yes, I definitley should of read the instructions..... But lesson learnt for the future. I will be ordering a satin sheet at some point, Ive just had a read up on it and it looks a nice upgrade!
Love my Satin Sheet, everything stick to it on my Mini but it releases with any issue.
@@MasonsWorkshop Nice video pal , did you get the new sheet?
@@scottsound4711 Hey Scott, sadly no satin sheet yet..... On my list to order. Got a few projects to print so will aim to get one for those!
Thanks for that info @hallslys -
Hi, did you use the standard prusa sicer Profiles?
@@kitebabe05 yes, standard profiles!
Are there different settings for the different materials on this printer? Or do you manually adjust the settings? Is that what the calibration step is for?
When creating the G code, ie slicing your part in prusa slicer there is a drop down menu where you can select your material. This controls things such as nozzle temperature, bed temperature etc. the calibration I was focusing on was for the z height to ensure that I had a good squish with each layer of filament! Once you’ve used the slicer software a few times it becomes really simple!
@@MasonsWorkshop I saw a video of the mini with a stand built from printed parts. Do you know if those parts designs are open to use or if they cost money?
good job!
Thanks for the feedback !
@@MasonsWorkshop our latest project CRC remote control car, use all of those mats. PLA, ASA, PETG and FLEX, and all parts are ready for PRUSA MINI. :), so perfect match with your video
@@printednest Thats cool, I will make sure I give it a watch!
im having trouble with sainsmart tpu on my mini. doesnt look like its extruding properly
Great video Mason! What’s your favorite material on the mini plus now that it’s been a few months?
Hi Hayden, Im glad you enjoyed the video. I would say my go to is the PLA for most prints, mainly due to speed and finish. A close second is the ASA for smaller technical parts!
@@MasonsWorkshop awesome! I plan to reprint an air intake for my vehicle. Do you believe the ASA would hold up fine? Have a Happy New Year!
@@hayden199516 Hi Hayden, Yes I cant see that being a problem. If not printing with an enclosure like myself I would take care with the design to avoid thin, tall areas to minimise warping. Being an air intake I cant imagine it being flimsy though so should be fine ! Ill be doing some videos soon focusing on each material in more detail, I plan to find the limit of what works and what doesnt on the mini! Happy printing
Hello Mason, thank you for this nice video. Do you think your mini prusa is able to print functionnal ballbearing?
Hi Alexander, thanks for the comment. I think that the Prusa mini is capable of printing a ball bearing, but the function and longevity of it would be very dependant on its application !
@@MasonsWorkshop Hello. Yes I am agree with you. Bearing made by 3D print are just for fun. But they have also a special purpose: to confirm if the printer is flawless, or not. Actually, I have many printer. And among those, I have a mini Tiertime. She's 150µm thickness, less sharp than Genius Pro and Kingroon, and she's able to make any workable bearing of 30/40mm diameter.
Actually, my other printers can not make a full quick working bearing. Only my tiertime can make it. I heard from a second hand market than someone tryied to print the bearing from thingiverse on a Prusa mini and said (I don't know if true or wrong) it was flawless. I know support and how they are engineered made a lot of difference of it (Tiertime slicer made the difference I guess). Anyway I tryied to use Prusa Slicer for generating Gcode, but the bearing failed. I have a video on my channel from 2014 about vulgarisation of first printers in France (Leroy Merlin imprimante 3D) and the printers of back in the day made perfect workable ballbearing. Now you know what I mean. Thank you a lot for all your nice video, you're a very nice guy. If interested, the bearing is "thingiverse thing 7127". If you wanted to try, please tell me about. If Prusa can make it, I will buy one immedialtely. Thanks for response.
What purpose serves the outer line when it is printing?
The one which isnt even touching the print at all but only framing it?
Hi there, from my understanding this skirt line is to allow the printer to ensure the filament is fully extruded and running smooth before the first layer starts. I also like to think of it as a test line to ensure sizing, filament type, filament colour are all OK before the part printing commences.
@@MasonsWorkshop Ah, thanks for the answer!
Along with keeping the temp up, ASA should be printed in an enclosure, venting outside, as it contains Styrene and can be really dangerous to your health if you inhale it.
Hi Simon, all very valid points. Without an enclosure you need to find a happy medium between ventilation and keeping ambient temperature up !
You should do a video comparing different brands of filament (Hatchbox, Prusament, Overture, etc. )
I am thinking of doing a comparison video, So far I have stuck only with Prusament but I am interested to see how others out there compare. Particularly the cheaper ones !
@@MasonsWorkshop It's not necessarily "how good is the material?". With Hatchbox/Overture/Amolen/eSun/Sunlu/Inland, the question is "how good is this roll?" That's really the advantage of buying Prusament and other premium filaments.
Yes that is a good point. I think the quality and reliability of the filament is key, I can’t see any point saving money if it’s a gamble to whether the filament is going to be creating good prints or not!
thinking about picking up myself the prusa mini plus as well. have you had any of the clogging issues that many have had? particularly the ptfe tube coming loose and causing a clog, especially with cheaper filaments. any issues with the extruder? also, is the noise level of the printer too loud to be next to you? i plan to have it placed next to me and wonder if it will be too loud as to be annoying or maybe disrupt my video calls too much.
anyway, thank you for the great and informative video! you got yourself a new sub
Hi Alan,
So far I have had one clogging issue.. this was when I very started. Since then, there’s been no clogging or extruding issues. I must say though I have only stuck with Prusament brand materials to minimise the risk of any issues. So far so good!
In terms of noise, it really isn’t too bad. On the faster movements it can make a bit of a whirring noise but I sit in meetings with it running and it’s barely noticeable. However the trick of using a paving slab along with some high density foam as a base is supposed to really quieten it down so I will try that for sure!!
Overall though I really recommend the machine. 90 percent of the mistakes I’ve made have been from lack of knowledge.
@@MasonsWorkshop woh thanks for the quick reply! And yeah I hear it performs best with high end filament. I also heard about the slab trick to quiet it down and if I do get this printer, I’ll Defintiely look into that! Thank you so much again for the insight and look forward to more of your content!
I didn't get PETG option on my prusa slicer
That is weird! Worth re downloading/updating the slicer from the prusa website.
hi, wanna ask if this Prusa Mini+ can be used for 3D printing using resin material?
Thank you
Hi there, the Prusa mini is an FDM machine so deposits filament opposed to Resin. Prusa do offer a Resin printer which allows more detailed prints.
Temp towers might help you find the ideal temp for each material.
Something on my list to try !
Since hes using mostly Prusament, the ideal temperature on the prusa mini is built into the slicer already, along with i beleive the other materials hes tried, and those have been tested at the factory to be about as good as reasonably possible
Hi! Great video! Just a question, do you use the smooth sheet on all the prints, even the PETG?
Hey there! thank you, glad you liked it. I used the textured sheet for PETG and the Flexfill filament !
Did you switch between the textured and smooth sheet for TPU and Asa
Hi Josh, Yes for the ASA i moved back to a smooth sheet !
@@MasonsWorkshop I think that’s why it was so far off. The smooth sheet is quite a bit thicker I think. I just bought 14 minis.. have the first 3 set up and printing great.. the z offset threw me off though because the textured powder sheet is thin and I had to move the probe up to get the nozzle close.
So it is possible to print small prusament-asa-parts without enclusure?
Hi Yuri, yes I think if you keep a good ambient temperature when printing and consider the ASA limitations when designing your part there is no issue. An enclosure will always be an improvement though ! Ill be shooting some videos soon showing the design point when ASA starts to warp with no enclosure.
@@MasonsWorkshop maybe I will buy a photo-tent later on. It is not insulating perfectly ofc. But it is rather cheap, you can put it somewhere else, when not needed and no electronics/motors get harmed.
You haven’t had to mess with the hot end ptfe tube?
So far I’ve had to make no adjustments !
Very good video!!
Hello, I agree. The Flex is a super cool material and I didnt show enough of the final product although this isnt the best print to show off its properties...... I can see a video coming in the near future with some flex content :)
@@MasonsWorkshop keep up the good work I really like your videos!
@@Bojornensjover Thank you for the comment and subscription ! much appreciated.
I from Poland, and I dont understand. Pleas unswear. PLA is very good. WHAT Petg is good what do you use?
Hi there, all of the materials printed in this video were Prusament except from the FLEX. From reading up, Prusament seems to be a reliable filament. With all things, there is some trial and error to get it working perfectly.
In Poland you have good local brands like Devil Design, Fiberlogy and Spectrum Filaments.
are you random gaminginhd's long lost younger brother? also good video
Based on the fact I don’t know who that is, I’m going to say no! Cheers, glad you liked it
0:31 It's pronounced P-E-T-G not Pet-G.
Thanks for the information 👌🏻