I want to do this for gen2 module. They are 25ah cells vs gen1 15ah. They are slightly thicker. Anyway to preserve more of the tabs? I heard a chistle works well.
Do you have any of the parts that were unused for your project left (plastic separators, blue pad, metal radiator, etc)? And are you willing to part with them?
a cell? no. you would have to replace either a module or the whole pack. You can find modules on ebay for $500-$600 for a used one or a whole pack for around $4000 for a used one. You will have to remove the entire pack either way and then to do the module you will have to take the pack apart. There is high voltage and high current potential in the pack so you will need to be very careful once the pack cover is removed. You should use insulated tools so if you accidentally touch the wrong thing or drop something the plasma ball doesn't burn all your skin off. You will also need a forklift or a car lift or something to get the pack in and out of the car.
I bought the pack too with the shell included but for some reason when connecting to the shell’s main gate(outlet) there seems to be no voltage coming through. So do I need to recharge the whole pack or is there a safety switch that is impeding voltage coming through?
Not sure, my pack was already partially disassembled. The main connectors have some kind of computers involved. You could also have a bad cell or something inside. I don't recommend just pumping power into it.
@@JankyShack but even if there was a bad cell, there’s still continuity within the pack so there should be at least a sign of voltage coming through. All four batteries are connected in series so, how dangerous can it be plugging to a normal 220v outlet?
Do you have a charger or you talking about hooking it directly to 220v ac? I think you should open the pack and test each cell. Be very careful one of these cells can discharge 1000amps and will produce an arc flash if you short them. Be very careful charging them as well, burning your house down is a very real possibility.
@@eddyboh2723 You were joking with that right? Just for anyone reading, batteries operate and charge with DC voltage. Power lines are all AC voltage. It will blow up a battery immediately.
Wow, thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I may need the cooling plates and the plastic end caps for a future project. My email is rbrauns AT xsmail DOT com.
Yes and no, they are 48v, but you wouldn't be able to use the regular charger. You would need to use a different charger and a battery management system either in the charger or on the battery. A golf cart is just a small electric car, these are electric car batteries.
@@TACOMASRT5 I don't really have a recommendation. If you don't 100% know what you're doing with lithium batteries I would go with the all-in-one style batteries by companies like battle born. They are very expensive though, they are $1000/piece and you will need 4 of them.
@@TACOMASRT5 I have some videos on my channel on batteries that I've made for my 1 KW E-bike. You can build one of those batteries for a few hundred. You still need the BMS and charger.
BAHAHAHAH I sold so many Volt packs. I have seen 4 part numbers... LGX P1, P1.5, P1.7B, and P2.5 in the later cars. The P1..7 and P2.5 are teh best. I pulled 300A in a flash on 20s ( 20kW) on a 2.5 cell pack. Use stronger wires isolate cells NO ELECTRICAL TAPE Your cells are a little purffed.. From a 2013-204 car. They are not to dangerous. You can shoot them and they are fine.. but if you get a thermal runaway from charge cycle or discharge cycle, that s trouble. Well behaved cells.
![KAYTRANADA - Witchy (feat. Childish Gambino) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jGK3YVmGZ3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Those pliers are channel locks.
Guys, do you know where I can find the Bill of Materials of this Module?
I want to do this for gen2 module. They are 25ah cells vs gen1 15ah. They are slightly thicker. Anyway to preserve more of the tabs? I heard a chistle works well.
Mary Coyle but it's a shame you can't use the whole pack straight out the car
Do you have any of the parts that were unused for your project left (plastic separators, blue pad, metal radiator, etc)? And are you willing to part with them?
Hi, what are the sizes of the cells - are they 9" X 6.5" ?
Hope you knew that by breaking and tossing out all of the plastic holders, foam insulators and cooling plates you were tossing away a small fortune.
whats done is done, that stuff is long gone now and I had no idea of any value at the time.
Do you know more information about the model of cars which I could find them inside?. (Hybrids)
Chevy Volt
Is it possible to replace just the cell? How much is a cell? Dealer told me cell no.2 is bad.
a cell? no. you would have to replace either a module or the whole pack. You can find modules on ebay for $500-$600 for a used one or a whole pack for around $4000 for a used one. You will have to remove the entire pack either way and then to do the module you will have to take the pack apart. There is high voltage and high current potential in the pack so you will need to be very careful once the pack cover is removed. You should use insulated tools so if you accidentally touch the wrong thing or drop something the plasma ball doesn't burn all your skin off. You will also need a forklift or a car lift or something to get the pack in and out of the car.
@@JankyShack Yes battery cell. The dealer says that my battery needs cell no.2 for replacement. All of the other battery cells are ok.
@@landscaping3716 good luck. unless you have access to an ultrasonic welder it will be impossible. and even if you do it will still be impractical.
What's the amp hour rating on those sells??? I've got a 24s pack of 20ah pouch cells... I've got 2 bad cells I need to replace...
I believe they are 15ah
@@JankyShack you still have any for sale???
Im looking at a 2012 chevy volt and the guy says the battery is getting 21miles per charge how do i raise it back to original numbers?
buy a new battery lol
@@JankyShack lol how much is that
@@sergioknuf no idea, call a chevy dealership
I bought the pack too with the shell included but for some reason when connecting to the shell’s main gate(outlet) there seems to be no voltage coming through. So do I need to recharge the whole pack or is there a safety switch that is impeding voltage coming through?
Not sure, my pack was already partially disassembled. The main connectors have some kind of computers involved. You could also have a bad cell or something inside. I don't recommend just pumping power into it.
@@JankyShack but even if there was a bad cell, there’s still continuity within the pack so there should be at least a sign of voltage coming through. All four batteries are connected in series so, how dangerous can it be plugging to a normal 220v outlet?
Do you have a charger or you talking about hooking it directly to 220v ac? I think you should open the pack and test each cell. Be very careful one of these cells can discharge 1000amps and will produce an arc flash if you short them. Be very careful charging them as well, burning your house down is a very real possibility.
@@eddyboh2723 You were joking with that right? Just for anyone reading, batteries operate and charge with DC voltage. Power lines are all AC voltage. It will blow up a battery immediately.
Just curious but what did you do with the plastic cooling end caps and other cooling bits like the o rings, etc?
Some of it is in a pile in the corner of my garage
Wow, thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I may need the cooling plates and the plastic end caps for a future project. My email is rbrauns AT xsmail DOT com.
Do you still have a few of those cooling plates at 4:06?
What if someone wanted to build an electric motorcycle using a 36 or 48volt golf cart motor with regen feature?
Would these be good batteries to use?
Yes and no, they are 48v, but you wouldn't be able to use the regular charger. You would need to use a different charger and a battery management system either in the charger or on the battery. A golf cart is just a small electric car, these are electric car batteries.
@@JankyShack well I dont want to go with lead acid. What do you recommend?
@@TACOMASRT5 I don't really have a recommendation. If you don't 100% know what you're doing with lithium batteries I would go with the all-in-one style batteries by companies like battle born. They are very expensive though, they are $1000/piece and you will need 4 of them.
@@JankyShack wow, too rich for my blood. Im kind of looking to do a budget bike build
@@TACOMASRT5 I have some videos on my channel on batteries that I've made for my 1 KW E-bike. You can build one of those batteries for a few hundred. You still need the BMS and charger.
and there is over 300 volts in a full battery unit. 108000 watts easily
The chevy volt pack is 16,000 watt hours
Do you have any info on c rate for max charge and discharge?
I think 7.8C discharge rate is what chevy rates them at. Not sure about charge rate.
Thanks very much for the info
Do you still have some cells for sale?
omg please buy a 3$ ceramic kitchen knife from china -.- why people
BAHAHAHAH I sold so many Volt packs. I have seen 4 part numbers... LGX P1, P1.5, P1.7B, and P2.5 in the later cars. The P1..7 and P2.5 are teh best.
I pulled 300A in a flash on 20s ( 20kW) on a 2.5 cell pack.
Use stronger wires isolate cells NO ELECTRICAL TAPE
Your cells are a little purffed.. From a 2013-204 car. They are not to dangerous. You can shoot them and they are fine.. but if you get a thermal runaway from charge cycle or discharge cycle, that s trouble.
Well behaved cells.
I am going to link your vid for those that ask me for dissasy pics, Ok? Thankyou.
I use a Dremel on a CNC machine to separate cells. I also cut the plates to fit in the bikes to make the battery case smaller and stackable.
Buy a Dremel tool. The cutoff wheel is not conductive.