Dissecting the Chevy Volt's electric drivetrain
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- Опубликовано: 18 июл 2014
- In this video I show the EV drive drain from a 2013 Chevy Volt that was removed from a wreck with only 7,000 miles. The traction pack is disassembled down to the individual 24V and 48V modules.
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This video is purely informational and should not be duplicated by persons who are not professionally trained to deal with high voltage equipment The information contained on this web site is provided in good faith, and every reasonable effort is made to ensure that it is accurate and up to date.
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In other words, do NOT try this at home.
that battery is fawkin incredible. I'm so happy you recorded this.
Thank you ! Great informative video!
Thank you, for the brave disassembling and the good Video.
Thank you for sharing this with the world!
The chemistry is VERY long life oriented, able to function in colder weather but at the sacrifice of weight, these packs have a energy density similar to nimh An 18650 cell package of similar weight would be 38-44 KWh giving the volt a range of roughly 95-100 miles all things being equal.
Thank you!!!! I have been wanting to do this.
17:48, to quote Ahnuld, "if it bleeds, we can kill it."
We need to get together. Lithium Manganese on the gen 1. I'm picking up a 2012 pack from a salvage yard since I've lost about 25 percent range on my original pack with 130k miles. FYI, my pack was like new up until last October with 128k miles. It turns out when you take your volt in for scheduled maintenance and updates, they don't check the battery coolant. In fact, nobody at any of the chevy dealers can give you accurate information, so I recommend that anyone with a chevy EV to periodically check all of your fluid levels under the hood. I had assumed they were topping off the battery coolant the past couple years when I took it in for maintenance, but they were not and the battery coolant evaporated, or got siphened out. I drove the car with no coolant for a couple months until an odb2 code came up that had to do with battery pack fault isolation, which was not caused by a module issue as the tech told me, it was tripped because there was no coolant in the battery!
The pack I'm getting is from the same production line and only has 20k miles on it and again one volt tech told me that you can't use traction batteries from other 2012 cars and that they have to be programmed and ordered directly from Chevy with I'm pretty sure is complete bullshit. Now, I might need to take off the 4 battery control modules from my old pack and swap them onto the replacement pack. There is nothing tying the actual Physical battery to the individual cars aside from the modules that could store information about VIN numbers and things like that. Do you have another video showing removal of the battery from underneath the car? That is going to be the hardest thing to accomplish. What are your thoughts?
Zap - I'm in a similar boat... I recently bought a 2011 with 166k which was in pristine condition and still demonstrated very good EV performance with the pack. Unfortunately after about 1 month and 3K miles the car went into Power Down mode and after trying many "obvious" fixes such as disconnecting 12V and also charging *IT* up fully, reading out and resetting all the DTC codes, etc I dropped in at the GM dealer service bay. After being treated pretty abruptly (rudely?) by the first person I spoke with, another service rep/tech overheard the conversation and was *mildly* more helpful. He was able to confirm (remembered) that the previous owner had been in and had the Battery reset... once with them, and once with another dealer 100 miles away when she got stranded again. Not too surpising she passed this on to me without any disclosure, she paid way too much for it ($7500) from an out of state dealer (shipped to her) and was trying to cut her losses. She was VERY relieved when she realized I was an EV enthusiast with experience (though still didn't disclose) and insisted on selling to *me* for $5K rather than an average "civilian" who would obviously be (even more) stuck with no options when it failed again. In any case, I don't trust this dealer to have enough experience (or motivation) to do anything but insist on a $10k full replacement, etc. I understand that these beasts are technically very sophisticated, beyond the average mechanic, but as an EV/off-grid enthusiast, they seem pretty straightforward. You asked about removal (install) of the pack... I have looked far and wide for direction, input, help, etc. and found little... it *does* appear that with little more than an access plate removal on the bottom front (I don't have a lift, so hard to verify until I do) that the 2 HV cables (charge and drive) and 2 BMS cables and the coolant (in/out) ports are all accessible. Beyond that it is a matter of supporting the pack well on a hydraulic lift, unbolting, and lowering (or as I saw in one timelapse, rolling a dolly under, lowering the weight gently onto the dolly, removing the remaining bolts and then lifting the car *off* the pack). I sent a Hangouts invite to chat offline.
There is a utube video on a complete installation and tear down and reinstallation from an instructor that teaches techs he is in a wheelchair
@@GoldensRule45 that guy is really good
Excellent. Thank you.
Thanks for the video. For reassembly, could you use three long all-threads with nuts to compress the pack enough to get the first bolt started, and then do the others one by one? Of course, you probably had the wood clamps already, but if you had to do this repeatedly, it might be easier.
Would you recommend 24 or 48 volt sections be used for golf carts or solar? can the be used without the bms?
Thanks
Just wanted to comment that rumors of batteries not lasting the life of the car are complete fiction. As of last October I had 2500 cycles on my pack and I had not lost a single mile of range (45 miles.) Just check your battery coolant from time to time and charge it at level 1 120v 12amp (standard outlet) every single night and Use 240v 10amp level 2 sparingly. Chevy services managers and even their EV techs are still for the most part clueless about their EV's and they don't check the battery coolant when you take it in for maintenance, at least in my case.
Thank You!!
Can you walk me through the process of dropping the transmission on the volt? I have to replace mine and I am wondering what is the best process?
That's a awesome video brother! I can't afford a volt because I'm a paramedic so I'm poor lol but it's good to know how this is made due to responding to a few of volts involved in a MVA, I was worried about how the battery design might hurt the passengers but it looks not too bad , thanks
You might be surprised, don't forget the government incentive. Base Volt is something like $34k, but you get a $6k tax credit (not tax deduction) so as long as you're paying at least $6k into FICA throughout the year, you'll get a $6k check back at the end, which makes it a 28k car. Or lease - with a 10k tradein, low miles lease, my payment is $108 a month. I've gone >4000 miles and not had to buy gas yet, vs $20 a week with my last car, so that makes it $28 a month net. It also lowered my insurance $30 a month, so I'm actually being paid $2 a month to drive a 2017 Volt after all is said and done.
Did you ever track down the supplier & part number of the orange BMS connector? Is the the same pin-out on either side of the cable for the 48V version? I'd like to use one cable to support connection to 2 different 48V batteries via 2 separate BMS's. I'll cut it in two pieces.
Do you know were the battery temp sensors are. It shows to have 9 battery temp sensors. My volt have a senor B fault.
code P0AC6 Hybrid Battery Temperature Sensor B Range/Performance.
Hopefully I dont have to break down the whole pack like you did.
Thanks, Mike
Wratchet strap could draw the packs together nicely
hi i bought a cedilla elr and was into an accident, car doesn't start is there a safety fuse or something that is preventing the car to start?
what is the nominal voltage of those units, is it 48v which can be charged up to 54? or is 44 volts of which can be charged up to 50 volts? im at a loss between if these are 12s or 13s battery packs . i am trying to figure out what charger to use for this for my EV project
it's 3 to 4.1 volt per cell
you can disable the heating battery? Where is he located ?
I bought the battery pack too with the shell included but for some reason when connecting to the shell’s main gate(outlet) there seems to be no voltage coming through. So do I need to recharge the whole pack or is there a safety switch that is impeding voltage coming through?
Can these batteries be used for off grid housing using solar panels to generate energy. I am looking into 10kwh system. Are these 48v 50ah packs? Can 48v inverter and charge controller support these batteries. Seems like a very inexpensive option for off grid living if done correctly.
They're 44v Because of that, you lose some of the power with standard inverte/charger. But 44v charger/inverters are available.
10mm head = M6 13mm head=M8 17mm head=M10 19mm head=M12 22mm head= M14
What are your plans for this thing?
have you mannaged to work with the chevy BMS ?
Long term plans w/ this hardware?
Do you know if there is a way to test the voltage of the battery pack voltage outside of the vehicle? like reconnect the disconnect and test voltage between terminals?
He did that at 2:12, although I don't think he showed where he connected.
I have 2 Volts and between them have had 3 occurrences of "service high voltage system". Twice the battery coolant was low and once the sensor for the battery coolant was faulty. My wife's Volt has recently gotten the fault again, but we both have over 100,000 miles. How do I check the level of coolant and fill if low? Thank you.
Hi! Do you think you can give me the measurements (h/w/d) of the 48 and 24 v packs? Thanks, I need to see if I can fit some in a conversion we are attempting.
Hello is the low propulsion normal to get?
Hi..can the cells be easily removed individually from each section?
At 7:48, you said the middle pack is just 24. Isn't the middle pack two 48 modules?
ware you buy the battery?
anybody ever find the pin outs and the plug for the battery to monitor each cell? head molex will fit? thx
what does a replacement Chevy Volt battery actually cost?
1000 - 1500
Why don't you use the battery for a backup system for your house?
We are on the grid and it would not be the best use of the pack. It is an option people who want to go off the grid but there are battery chemistries with higher cycle life for that application.
I want to go offgrid with these. Can the chevy bms sitll work aside of the car? How to charge entire battery 360v and put an inverter of 115 vac output?
My idea its to allow the chevy bms to keep battery stable and make use of full battery without dissambling . any idea ir link?
WO KANN ICH KOMPLET KAUFEN UND PREIS
Whats the total KW on this pack? 19?
I'm going from memory here, but depending on the build date, I believe it was somewhere from 16.4 kWhr to 16.8 kWhr.
Anyone else getting a weird buzzing noise in their headphones during this video?
Somebody told me volts dont kill you amps do. That's not true is it? I guess I could google it.
New United Race Tech has a large selection of OEM connectors, many available in small quantities. Perhaps they can get you what you need for this pack.
www.newunitedracetech.com/shop/
Im assuming the car caught fire and these are the only parts that survived. Chevy's good at making cars catch fire.
NOW THAT THE BATTERY IS OUT THE VOLT, WILL THE CAR OPERATE AS A GAS ONLY CAR ?
No. The volt can't work that way. The engine functions (mostly) as a generator that generates electricity to drive the electric motor.
Dude, you are crazy! 350 volts and all the amps that can possibly be pushed through a human body will kill you. It would also set back electric vehicles in general if you made the news as being killed by one!
Well Phil, Thank you for your concern about my health and safety (and putting it so politely). I am a trained engineer and have been doing this for the better part of a decade. And at my last job I oversaw testing for the direct effects of lightning strikes on aircraft. But for everyone else: please don't try this at home.
I can bet that the pack is completely dischaged and has no energy.
Some blue electric gloves may be a small safety benefit during disassembly.
Raymond Ramírez That's a very dangerous bet!
Raymond Ramírez No, closer to a full charge. Never assume a battery is discharged. Even a "Discharged" battery has enough voltage to do serious damage. You should always treat batteries as a hot circuit.
look like chevy is reinventinng the wheel, batteries have been around forever, couldnt just adapt some cheaper exiting tech or work with tesla, no no just make a billion dollar project out of it, way over engineered in my opinion, and like probable way to expensive to service later, although i have thought about purchasing a volt, its one of the few in the industry that looses money on every car (volt that it sells) with the tax payer money we all gave them im looking for at least one deal in my lifetime
Marlon Ferguson
your an idiot. liquid cooling electronics is nothing new. big manufacturers use liquid cooled welders. making something work more efficiently is not over engineering.
You're mad! No safety equipment whatsoever! I wouldn't trust you to wire a plug!