I have watched your video many times. My boyfriend and I just air conditioned the garage and decided we needed to insulate our garage doors. We used your plan and adapted it to our garage doors. It turned out very nice and has made a major difference. Thank you so much for your inspiration and your instruction.
I appreciate your unique approach to this Fred. The air gaps have to help isolate the heat quite a bit. Your attention to detail is amazing, most folks would skip the alcohol wiping but that will make the tape stick 5x to 10x longer than without that step. You are the type of guy anyone with any house pride would want to hire.
Doesn’t sound like it. My garage door is 1.5 inches from the lip to the front of the garage door. If he did a cell he’s have to account for probably another half inch
@@yevenstee I think I was able to get R-10 in there (2" thick pink Styrofoam board). I did have to lap-joint the edges in some spots because of the thickness of the garage door frame.
Metallic tape trick I recently learned: wet a tiny corner of the paper side. Use a thumb-nail to scratch off the wet paper. Now you can easily peel back the metallic tape and apply!!
Thanks for sharing this video. This is quite labor intensive when compared to filling up the space with 1" - 2" solid sheet. It would be great if you could follow up with a thermal scanner video just to confirm if it's worth to take this approach. Thanks again.
With a foil backed foam it needs an air gap or work or the foil aspect is useless and you're just putting foam in. I think this video's process is great, but maybe a bit overkill for the everyday person--I chose to just do one layer instead of the two he did (for ease and finances). But obviously two would be better than one since the air gaps let less and less heat transfer through each subsequent one. In Arizona he probably needs this.
Good luck with your project! I was contemplating this project for quite some time. I wanted to do something more than the normal thick foam kit because it’s so blessed HOT here in Las Vegas. My neighbor has the regular foam and he is happy. I just wanted more lol.
@@MrFredsDIY dude! i just had to start living in my in-laws garage in Las Vegas as well. (mtn. edge) because....well i'm sure you can get a few ideas probably why and one or 2 could probably be correct. Anyway its just killing my wife and I along with are big fatty cat. i was able to get a little a/c unit but its not big enough at all to really feel a difference unless your right next to it. so iv been trying to think of how i can put up make shift walls that will help keep the cool air in a smaller area but my big issue i think is the garage door. by 8:30 -9:00 A.M. i feel that heat just radiant against the door because mine faces south and gets contact from the sun till it starts setting.... i would really like to use the stuff like you did in your video but i cant afford that. i mean i was going to see if i could collect something like really big packing foam from a maybe a fridge or what ever and wrap it in my own foil from the kitchen.. lol its like that for me right now. thank you for your time and video very easy to follow and understand. maybe if you have any ideas or know where i could salvage some scraps so we don't cook and over heat because the rate its going its not looking to good. Not to mention on top of everything i can only work on it at night because its the only time its barrable to work in there but i need to sleep at night so i can get to work in the A.M. sorry for the long message. just had to vent i guess. look forward to seeing more videos. thanks again Levi Patton
@@MrFredsDIY Very good idea, the air gap does create more insulation. I built 2" frame inside my 60" X 60" single pane window, wrap insulation window film with air gap. Really help to keep the cold out.
I watched quite a few videos about insulating garage doors and compared temp differences. Your method made the greatest difference in degrees. We live in the Atlanta area, and the garage door faces west, so it gets extremely hot, as does the garage. We just bought the supplies and will be doing the work tomorrow morning. Thanks for the video.
Good luck with your project! It’s 110° in Las Vegas today. Don’t forget as I said in the video I did have to have my garage door springs adjusted slightly.
@@MrFredsDIY It took 4 days of 4 to 6 hours to do this correctly. It is slow going but it turned out nice and makes a huge temp difference. Again, thanks for the video.
This is by far the best video for insulating a garage door. I added an mini split air conditioner into the garage home gym. Definitely gonna pull this endeavor during the summer.
I'm in SW Florida. My workshop (all steel building, no insulation) is over 80 from early may to early October. Most of those days it is between 100 and 110 during the hottest part of the day. I look forward to this video very much.
I used aluminum duct tape at work. Even when I was careful, I’d get nasty cuts smoothing it. Balling up tape backing to press it is a great way prevent bleeding fingers. Other than that, it is what I’m planning to help my son with. Thanks.
Wow. I've looked at over a dozen videos on this topic and have not seen anything like this. Amazing. Very thoughtful design. Great editing and script. This changes my idea about how to do my garage door.
Thanks for the kind remarks. This project wasn’t supposed to be a video, it was just a project that needed done. Filming inside my 100° garage was a challenge. In the end I am glad I recorded it and that I am able to share this project/concept with the world.
Smart method with the air gap. I'm in the process of fully insulating & conditioning my west facing hot garage so I can do projects year 'round. I like this approach.
I just used Reflectix to insulate the interior of my cargo van for my camping trips. It made a tremendous difference for hot or cold! I used the leftover material to make an insulation panel to shield my AC condensor in the patio from the summer sun. The area above the panel facing the sun was 140 degrees and the area below the panel was 95 degrees! The concrete floor of the patio where it is installed was 120 degrees!
I've watched several of these vids and I like this plan the best, the double air gap will help to prevent heat transfer from on substrate to the next. Good plan. Thanks.
Nice video and great insulation, but if you want the super easy method, you don't have to build a box to get a fairly drastic change in insulation--you can just glue panels right to the door. Just cut 1" thick rectangular panels to your garage panel sizes, then simply put some caulk on a few of the high spots (clean the areas on the door first), slide in the panel and make sure it's resting on the bottom edge of the individual panel areas, press to make sure it has contacted the door/caulk and that's it (some use double sided tape). When measuring for the panels, make sure there's about a 1/4-1/2" overlap so the frame will slightly hold the panel if they come unglued, but mine never did. I did this in Canada north of North Dakota and even when it was like 5 degrees out, I could make the single story garage 50 degrees or more with just a little space heater. Going from a thin layer of highly conductive metal to a door with 1" of insulation makes a massive difference, even if you don't build a box and make an air gap. I just did it on a second garage recently. If you're going to use your garage a ton then I think maybe the box method is worth it, otherwise just slap up some panels ;-)
I wonder how the caulk would last in the insane heat we have? I feel like it might just cook right off. 🤣 I need to get the laser thermometer out, but I’m guessing my garage door gets to his temps or higher. The high today will be 110° F, and the garage faces west with FULL sun for several hours a day. I’m so anxious to try this!
Expense. No builder is going to take on the cost and time unless the homeowners specifically pay for it. And doing it yourself is waaaaay cheaper than paying for an install!
Did you measure the difference before and after? That would be interesting to know. Nice job. I like the idea. I would've just like to know the cost value on your method. I live in Phoenix (HOT) and using a foil kit. So changing to your method is it worth the cost. Thanks
Thanks for checking out the video! This winter in Las Vegas has been pretty mild. 45/50 at night. The biggest advantage I have found for winter it that when I use my Buddy Heater it reflects off the door and warms my work area. Thanks for watching!
Great Idea Mr. Fred I like the attention in quality and the ( No WRINKLES ) it does make for a aweson finish, I see at the beginning the door was 141 degrees and would like to ask what the temp was after completion the fallowing day, Looks great
I like this design. I wish Fred would have shown how the cells hold up to several garage door openings and closings. I have found that the abuse of the openings and closings can cause insulation like this to start to come out of the door cells over time.
You can take it a step higher and get 1/8" wire rod (I used brazing rod from welding supply/Tractor supply type stores). Drill hole at top & bottom of panel and run rod down, bend at top end to keep in place. Does a nice job.
Foil-coated polystyrene (styrofoam) board is (at least in my area) much cheaper than Polyiso, and will perform effectively just as well. As to the "double-sided reflective insulation" - reflective barriers are one-way insulating strategies. The foil facing the outside will reflect radiated heat back to the exterior. The interior-facing reflective barrier will actually be hurting your efforts in a hot climate, as any radiated heat from objects in the garage will be reflected...back into the garage. While the styrofoam can be more fragile if you scrape against it, I found its flexibility to be a bonus, wherein I did not have to cut spacers due to the design of my garage door panels that had a natural crevice for the board sections to hold their place in towards the interior side of the panels. I was able to cup/bend my board sections enough where they popped back into place once inside the metal lip of the door panels. I used no additional tape/foam/glue, and the panels have stayed perfectly in place since I did the project 5 years ago. As to the "added weight/springs" issue some have brought up - polystyrene is also much lighter than Polyiso, such that (personal opinion only) - I saw no need to upgrade my springs, nor have I noted any detrimental effects of the insulation on the door mechanics.
As I watched the video, I did see that the interior-facing reflective barrier was facing into the inside; so, it is safe to say that it should be install facing the garage door(outside) instead?
@@justinjimenez6960, I totally agree with you regarding keeping the heat out; that is why I asked if the reflective barrier should be facing the garage or should be facing away from it. Thanks
Thanks for the comments! I made a follow up video that has lots of temperature data points. That video is right here ▶️ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
Excellent video. I am just about finished with insulating two garage doors. The only issue I am having is the recommended tape is curling on the edges. I did clean the surface with alcohol, but it is still curling away. I may have to source another brand of tape to seal everything. Not happy about that.
Folks have told me that it works for cold weather too. When it’s “cold” here in Las Vegas (35°f) my little Buddy Heater has no problem heating up the garage to film a video or do a project.
I have a water heater and a refrigerator in my garage and yes it’s hot in the summer but it’s not to bad in the winter so I’m undecided if I want to do that.I like your choice of materials though and how you put it all together 👍
Looks really good! Thank you for sharing. I live in Arizona and am considering doing this with my garage doors. Just a couple of questions. You used wood spacers tabled to the surface. Do you worry that the heat will release the adhesive and these spacers will end up rattling loose behind the inserted foam panel? Could you have cut your panels from the width dimension, 48”, of the large foam for easier workability and less waste? Have you tested this for effectiveness? Please provide a review video months later if you can. Pros and cons and what you may have done differently. Thank you!
I'm on year two of my installation and haven't noticed any rattling. But I used dryer foil tape and put one on each end of the stick just to make sure it wouldn't slide around. Seems to be holding well because the foam pushes on the sticks anyway.
Thanks for the great detailed video Mr. Fred. I like your method and will do the same. I found the sheets at Home Depot. How many 4 X 8’ sheets do you need per garage door?
Do you have any tips on how to adjust the garage door springs? I love this design and if I'm going to DIY this, I would like to DIY the spring adjustment. I'm just not sure on how much of an adjustment I would need. Any help is appreciated. I love the videos. Keep up the good work.
Man, I wish I would have seen this before I insulated my garage door last year 😢 I did 1" foam throughout.. it works but this looks like it would work a lot better! Maybe on the next one!!! Good job man!
THIS! i saw this after i insulated my garage door and it doesnt look that good so i may end up redoing it with an air gap like this. Makes a lot of sense
You did a great job with the design, and explaining it, and then demonstrating the installation. You failed, however, to show a before and after temperature reading. You responded to comments asking about it but only by saying that the inside door temp was basically the same as the air temp inside the garage. You never gave us any numbers. What is the air temp in the garage!! Give us some sort of reference to know just how well it worked. Not doing so makes me wonder if you were disappointed with the results and don't want to get too specific with the results. The proof is in the numbers.
I agree also, I watched the entire video to see the end results of all the work and money invested. I live in Phoenix and have the same heat problem but without seeing the end temps for the inside on this build it was a waste.
He said it was 117 degrees outside, without humidity in AZ and based on what he's wearing and not sweating it probably drops the temp about 25-30 degrees. We did this to our garage with temps in high 90's and high humidity and it cooled it to mid 70's
@@davids7209 I don't think you're understanding what everyone is trying to say here. Exterior temp Interior temp before Interior temp after These will indeed dictate its success.
Would have loved to see the same time of day with similar temps in the same time of year measured before and after. Another user posted that the foil should be pointed outwards, but foil is also conductive, as well as radiative. I think that its a wash between the two, but probably MORE resistant to heat leakage in climates that have colder climates as well when facing inwards.
Thanks for the insights. Having the reflective side inward helps with heating & cooling the garage space (even if only a little). Here is a follow up a year later with more data points. ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
Well done. I'm in a milder climate however, the humidity makes up for it. I'd like to see some up close assembly shots of what you were doing. The right spacer being shorter confused me as the left should have been shorter as well for the top panel to sit on both evenly, correct? What have you done to combat the exposed aluminum rails? They are essentially heatsinks as well.
Chris High, I think the left side of the door cavity is recessed. The 44" of the top panel does not go inside the recess, but sits on top at all the edges. The top and bottom is the same, not reduced width for top to sit on but to create the "box" edges. Cool project and the little foam strips around the perimeter to make the "cell" is a good effective idea. The little lattice strips should keep the back panel from contacting the doors' surface. Theory is to limit the heat transfer and 2 little contact points hopefully reduce the transfer. I edited my previous post... I watched again and the little scraps he tapes onto the back panel are the spacers to have some support for the top panel and another air gap. That right edge foam strip that goes in before he measures the panel lengths, was not a spacer (works as 1 though), but it was the edge of the "box" and was thinner because the top panel sits on top of it flush with door rails. I was a little confused too. Hope that helps.
Areas that were clean and dirt free have held up well. I have a few area that I have has to clean better and reapply. I have a follow up video for this on my channel. Thanks for watching!
This is great. It keeps the weight down, while having decent R-value and air gaps making it the best option. Only downside is its labor intensive versus other products but if you are going down this rabbit hole then this likely wont be a problem for you
this was definitely more inline with how i was wanting to insulate mine. I was also looking to use flashing tape before putting the panels in. I have a garage the sits right below my bedroom and I would love to lessen the acoustics as well as insulate.
I made a follow up video to this one with a lot of temperature data. You can watch it here.▶️ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.htmlsi=aAXWGDMC5I8qzwmX
Wow! Nice. What R value do you estimate you achieved? Also, did you measure temperature inside and out after completion? That would be very useful to know.
*Great ideal i wish we could have seen you do temp test through out the day. This may work for my situation . Im in texas and Vegas is typically hotter so this should work great. Is it still working well for you ? would you add anything else after having it for a while ?*
This is definitely the way to keep heat out with radiant barrier. Air gaps are the key that people fail to understand. In cold or mixed climates, it won't be as efficient at stopping thermal heat transfer. But your in a mostly hot climate. I chose 1.5" pink insulation for mine since I have both extremes of heat and cold. Definitely nice build. Any results on temp drops for before and after?
From what I understand the best air gap is about 1/2 inch. Any more and you have circulation and defeats the gap function. You are best to put more layers of insulation which have the microcells already in the material. The weight of the insulation is not important. You just adjust your garage spring so that the door is actually weightless. Also the hot or cold climate does not matter. In a cold climate the hot area is inside and in a hot climate the cold area is on the inside assuming you have A/C. My wall of my house have R 20 insulation and on the outside is R 10 Blue SM. If made an airgap in the middle of my wall , it would just lower the overall insulation of my house and do no good at all. The insulation value of a 1/2 inch airgap is about R = 1 while the 1/2 inch Polyisocyanurate is probably about R!0, so 10 times better than an air gap. Also if you use airgaps , in places that aren't walls so you have space for air gaps, to keep them to 1/2 inch or they are useless. The air inside quickly sets up a convection current and transmits the heat or cold perfectly.
I like this idea…I don’t like the tape showing because I’m a little OCD. But I do need some horizontal bars to reinforce my door from winds .. (Oklahoma) ..the bars could hold the foam in place…I need to think about this. Thanks for the idea for sure! What was the post instal temp? 😂
Thanks for making a great video that’s easy to follow. I do have a question, I noticed that the 1st piece of insulation placed in the door the foil was facing in. I could be wrong but wouldn’t u want the foil to be facing outward towards the source of heat?
Thanks for watching! My understanding is that both sides are foil faced but one side is reflective and the other is painted. Perhaps facing the more reflective side outward would be best.
****I had my own garaged door company in Phoenix area and have performed THOUSANDS of garage door service, repair and installation jobs. I am unsure of the weight you added to that door (5-10 pounds?), but you really should either adjust the springs (if only 4-5 pounds more added) or change them out to the correct size springs now that you've added more weight than those springs are rated for. Those current springs you have are zinc plated [Chinese] junk. Call a reputable garage door company that installs oil-tempered high cycle torsion springs (black in color) and be sure to have the tech weigh the door (I used 2 analog bathroom type scales to do so) and have them size up the correct springs so you not only have a balanced door with the added weight but also get many more cycles than those junky springs you have now. High quality, properly installed garage door torsion springs (and nylon coated steel bearing rollers) are worth the investment.****
I admire the creativeity and the detail, but I have to side with the 2" thickness vs the 1/2". Although 2" is heavier, it is in NO WAY "heavy"!! Especially when only 3 1/2 sheets are needed for a double door. It's also a little more expensive, but the 3 1/2 sheets needed at $46 each is only about $50 more than the 7 sheets needed if using the 1/2". Additionally, rather than just the R-6.4 that you have, (R-3.2 x 2 layers), just one sheet of 2" would have given you R-13! Finally, the heat trapped in the air gap STILL has to transfer and dissapate somwhere, and that will be whichever side is cooler.
I also dont see where the difference between 8 sheets of 0.5" vs your estimate of 3.5 sheets of 2" (maybe is just that the cell has at least two sides and you are not making the cell design
The one and only thing I’d do different is for the spacers I would not trust the one flap of tape I would use an adhesive and cover the entire back side of the spacer this way you can eliminate the possibility of the spacers failing internally
Nice work. I'm in Florida, my west facing door is 138 today. Only problem is that it's a hurricane rated door. It has EIGHT horizontal braces the whole length. Working around those will be challenging.
I'm in south Louisiana and also had to contend with a hurricane rated door. Those horizontal braces can be removed. It's fairly easy but definitely recommend a second set of hands. I removed one bar at a time, installed 1" polyiso board with 1" spacer blocks (polyiso) to achieve the air gap and to set the boards flush to the door panel flanges. I used 3M foil tape, which I found to be easier to use than the peel and stick duct foil tape. Once the panel spaces were all closed up, I'd replace the support bar and move to the next strip. Rinse and repeat. My door is south facing, so it is exposed to sun Nearly the whole day! I'm sure you can relate, that door felt like a broiler when you got within two feet of it! Using an IR thermometer, the inside of the panels read the same as the ambient temp in the garage - which this summer, has been frick'n hot! But it is still a significant improvement! Once I tackle some of the other sources of significant heat gain I should get that space under control!
@@randys2358 fantastic! Glad to hear it worked out for you. I’m finishing the follow up video now. It will publish Friday morning. The Flir 1 infrared images are shocking! Thanks for watching!
In a FL home with those horizontal hurricane bars, I made horizontal cuts on opposite sides of the foam panel and used a Z-fold technique to fit the panels under the bar that gave a snug fit and worked well. No need to remove the bars.
🤔 Why use wooden spacers versus foam spacers? Why the air cell between the foam panels versus three full foam layers? I agree with the air gap between the foam and the metal as long as there is trapped air flow to the outside. What was the Delta T (Deg F) between the outer skin and inner skin after the mod? What is the fire retardancy of the foam, as well as the toxicity of the burning off gas? This is after all a garage. If the foam is flammable then applying thick AL foil or thin sheet metal w/ glue would prevent spark ignition. Thanks for an interesting presentation.
I used the wooden trim because it was thin and allowed for a larger “cell cavity”. A solid thick piece of foam would contact transfer heat more readily than the cell design. Here’s a follow up video.ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
Here is a follow up video that I made with lots of temperature data Garage Door Insulated The Right Way (Proof It Works) ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
Like the design. You say 8 sheets of 4x8 will do the entire door? Assuming door is 16' wide by 8' tall. I was guessing given two layers and the edge pieces might take a sheet more?? Thanks a lot!
I am tempted to take some of these panels and just lay them across the top of the rafter beams in my garage since it is all just the exposed frame right now because my father in law doesn't want it dry walled or anything "in case something happens and we need to see what is going on." lol
Thanks for watching! Not a bad idea! I did something similar in my attic to make a storage room of sorts. I used the panels for the walls and ceiling. The goal was to keep dust off of the items. Worked well!
Did you adjust door springs to account for added weight? Even though weight seems light there are added lbs to the door which can affect door openers function. Just thinking out loud. Your system appears to be so much more energy efficient.
Thanks for commenting. The springs were adjusted, I had my garage door guy do that for me. Here is a follow up video with tons more information.ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.htmlsi=fs3Rf6SlQ2CM1a2c
Biggest concern is fire risk here, polyiso foam is rated only in applications where it is covered with a fire barrier of some sort It is quite flammable, produces a ton of toxic smoke as it burns and is a hazard in an occupied space. Must do something to prevent fire climbing it, you’ll have smoke overtake the garage faster than time to safety get out
That is actually incorrect. From Polyiso.org: Polyiso insulation delivers a high level of inherent fire resistance when compared to other foam plastic insulations due to its unique structure of strong isocyanurate chemical bonds. These bonds result in improved high temperature resistance (up to 390 degrees F; more than twice the temperature resistance of other building insulation foams) which in turn leads to enhanced fire resistance. It also,conforms to code. Thanks for watching!
I applaud your effort but I do have some questions. How much did the cell system drop the temperature.? How much did all the material weigh? And overall, why did you put an air gap against the metal and then put the foil on the inside? At a minimum, that layer should face the metal. Then with your box structure would actually be more effective. It's also overkill to put foil on the inside unless your trying to hold heat on the inside as well. My final couple of comments are that perhaps using something more than that tape would be advisable since, if your door get's wet and then you open it it will subject the tape to water a little bit causing it to fail sooner, since that door will flex as it opens and closes as well which will cause the foil tape to come loose sooner or later. I used cardboard shim strips and sheet metal screws. Also, as cool as this was, even in Texas, I would assume you did this because your door faces south. Otherwise you could get similar results with a 1/2 inch gap at the metal, a .75 inch foil faced foam panel, glue/adhesive on the edges and be done in a fraction of the time.
Not to rain on anyone's parade but, Sika and Johns Mansville polyisocyanurate boards are now required to be covered by a thermal barrier. Sika states: "Installations utilizing R-Matte® Plus-3 must be fully protected on the inhabited side of the building by a thermal barrier such as a minimum of 1/2” gypsum wallboard." And JM states that "AP Foil-Faced sheathing must be separated from the interior of a building by either a thermal barrier or ignition barrier as required by code." All the foam plastic insulation products are now required to have this protection however most do not provide that information on their product, only in the fine print of their installation instructions. There were exceptions in some of the adopted codes for thicknesses and area limitations but they are not universal and many have been discontinued. The toxic fumes given off by these products are often fatal when inhaled. Please note that there are some polyisocyanurate panels which meet higher standards and are not required to have a thermal barrier but those panels are very expensive and are not found in the box stores. Check with your local building departments and get a letter from them stating that the material in question may be left uncovered. If they will not give you a letter - look elsewhere for insulation. Clark County is unusually tough on this - a result of the MGM fire many years ago.
Wait, no after install temperature results to show the benefits of the insulation? I went through the whole video hoping for positive results at the end.
I just noticed that you don't have a strut somewhere in the middle of the double door. I added one because it was sagging. Not sure if all garage doors need it but mine did.
The hindge supports are not insulated. Why did you not use spray foam to insulate? I like your approach and I intend to insulate each hindfge segment to make as complete a heat barrier as I can. Would appreciate your thought on this extra step.
Mr. Fred, do you find it also keeps the garage warmer in winter? Here in Texas, I'm sure it will work well in summer, but I'm wondering if it will reduce heat transmission out of the garage in summer?
It’s in the 40’s at night here now so not too cold. When I use my Buddy Heater it seems to reflect off the insulation and keep my work area warmer. Thanks for watching!
This is a very interesting approach to insulating a garage door. Fred, what air temperatures are you seeing inside of your garage now during peak outside temps?
Thanks for checking out the video! I am finding the most benefit in the afternoons when the sun is directly on the garage door. This is when my garage used to quickly heat up to 100° or more. Now it says between 85°-90° and I find that temperature doesn’t fluctuate nearly as much now either. I have a wall mounted swamp cooler out there as well. I find that it is much more effective now too.
@@MrFredsDIY Swamp cooler.... I haven't thought of those since I lived in Denver! Those work best in low humidity environments and Denver is a desert plateau.
I'm sure your solution performs better than mine, but I'm too cheap to buy those foam panels. I just cut a bunch of pieces of R-8 duct wrap to fit in all of the panels, then cut 1.5" wide x 1/8" thick wood slats out of an old 2x4 to hold each piece in place. 3 slats per panel, with the ends tucked behind the lip in the door panels. No tape or fasteners. Maybe $20 total, but I do HVAC work, so have a use for the other 80% of the roll of duct wrap. :)
I did this project back in July of 2021 and most of the tape is still holding up. I have replaced some of the pieces because the heat has ruined it. The original table I used was a very thick aluminum tape that I can’t seem to find anymore. Thanks for watching!
I think that you would have a better result even though more money using thicker insulation. The overall R-value is determined by the outside air layer, the garage door, the inside air layer, the insulation and the other inside air layer. Las Vegas still has some humidity so you might see some condensation on the very inside of the insulation.
Great video, Mr. Fred! Fun to watch, a solid approach, andw with the appropriate attention to detail. My only concern would be a situation where the aluminum door received direct sunlight on a recurring (daily) basis. This might cause the adhesive on the tape to fail prematurely, maybe at the end of a second summer? The sun (and in this case the heat generated by direct sun hitting the outside of the door) can be merciless with polymers, plastics, and various adhesives. Just a thought. Pls give us a follow-up at the two-year mark. Greatly enjoy all of your videos and your perspectives!
Thanks for the kind remarks! I’ve had a spot or two of the tape ‘lifting” but it seems like it happened on an area where the door was pretty dirty. Even though I cleaned the door with alcohol I feel like I could have been more thorough in a few areas.
It does help in the winter too. Here in Las Vegas it can get down to freezing overnight in the winter. I have a small heater I use in the garage and the insulated door helps. Thanks for watching!
I can feel a draft of air coming through my garage door at the seams where the panels hinge and butt up against each other. Would covering those gaps with a bubble wrap insulation be a good idea or any possible better solutions? Yours looks great by the way.
Might be a little expensive, use the rubber door strips with aluminum edge. Maybe your garage door man might have some rubber stripping that goes on bottom of door. (Used/free)
what if instead of using all the extra strips on top and bottom... run a bead of expanding foam insulation between panel and door panel. the foam would push the insulation panel out against the lip of door panels and create a good sealed air pocket
Thanks for watching, the outside temperature in the full sun is the same. The inside surface temperature however is the ambient temperature of the garage within a few degrees. The door is no longer radiating heat.
Here is the follow up video I made for this one. Lots of temperature data. ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.htmlsi=aAXWGDMC5I8qzwmX
I have watched your video many times. My boyfriend and I just air conditioned the garage and decided we needed to insulate our garage doors. We used your plan and adapted it to our garage doors. It turned out very nice and has made a major difference. Thank you so much for your inspiration and your instruction.
Great! I’m glad your project was a success!
"mY bOyFrIeNd"
I appreciate your unique approach to this Fred. The air gaps have to help isolate the heat quite a bit. Your attention to detail is amazing, most folks would skip the alcohol wiping but that will make the tape stick 5x to 10x longer than without that step. You are the type of guy anyone with any house pride would want to hire.
I just got my garage door done and it went together just like your video depicted, thank you you’re the bomb!
Just in time for winter!
This is hands down one of the best tutorials out for insulating your garage door. I used my collection of free paint stir sticks from HD for spacers.
i did mine using 2" thick foam board. it fit perfectly and worked a charm. kept the garage toasty during winter.
Did you make a cell like him or not
Doesn’t sound like it. My garage door is 1.5 inches from the lip to the front of the garage door. If he did a cell he’s have to account for probably another half inch
@@McNateDoggYT Nope, no need. Northern climate.
@eternalsunshine1651 I live in MN, and am this will be a project for me this summer. What R value did you use?
@@yevenstee I think I was able to get R-10 in there (2" thick pink Styrofoam board). I did have to lap-joint the edges in some spots because of the thickness of the garage door frame.
Metallic tape trick I recently learned: wet a tiny corner of the paper side. Use a thumb-nail to scratch off the wet paper. Now you can easily peel back the metallic tape and apply!!
Thanks for sharing this video. This is quite labor intensive when compared to filling up the space with 1" - 2" solid sheet. It would be great if you could follow up with a thermal scanner video just to confirm if it's worth to take this approach. Thanks again.
With a foil backed foam it needs an air gap or work or the foil aspect is useless and you're just putting foam in. I think this video's process is great, but maybe a bit overkill for the everyday person--I chose to just do one layer instead of the two he did (for ease and finances). But obviously two would be better than one since the air gaps let less and less heat transfer through each subsequent one. In Arizona he probably needs this.
Good luck with your project! I was contemplating this project for quite some time. I wanted to do something more than the normal thick foam kit because it’s so blessed HOT here in Las Vegas. My neighbor has the regular foam and he is happy. I just wanted more lol.
@@MrFredsDIY dude! i just had to start living in my in-laws garage in Las Vegas as well. (mtn. edge) because....well i'm sure you can get a few ideas probably why and one or 2 could probably be correct. Anyway its just killing my wife and I along with are big fatty cat. i was able to get a little a/c unit but its not big enough at all to really feel a difference unless your right next to it. so iv been trying to think of how i can put up make shift walls that will help keep the cool air in a smaller area but my big issue i think is the garage door. by 8:30 -9:00 A.M. i feel that heat just radiant against the door because mine faces south and gets contact from the sun till it starts setting.... i would really like to use the stuff like you did in your video but i cant afford that. i mean i was going to see if i could collect something like really big packing foam from a maybe a fridge or what ever and wrap it in my own foil from the kitchen.. lol its like that for me right now. thank you for your time and video very easy to follow and understand. maybe if you have any ideas or know where i could salvage some scraps so we don't cook and over heat because the rate its going its not looking to good. Not to mention on top of everything i can only work on it at night because its the only time its barrable to work in there but i need to sleep at night so i can get to work in the A.M. sorry for the long message. just had to vent i guess. look forward to seeing more videos. thanks again Levi Patton
it works, have always done this and it is well worth it
@@MrFredsDIY Very good idea, the air gap does create more insulation. I built 2" frame inside my 60" X 60" single pane window, wrap insulation window film with air gap. Really help to keep the cold out.
I watched quite a few videos about insulating garage doors and compared temp differences. Your method made the greatest difference in degrees. We live in the Atlanta area, and the garage door faces west, so it gets extremely hot, as does the garage. We just bought the supplies and will be doing the work tomorrow morning. Thanks for the video.
Good luck with your project! It’s 110° in Las Vegas today. Don’t forget as I said in the video I did have to have my garage door springs adjusted slightly.
@@MrFredsDIY It took 4 days of 4 to 6 hours to do this correctly. It is slow going but it turned out nice and makes a huge temp difference. Again, thanks for the video.
Glad it turned out for you!
This is by far the best video for insulating a garage door. I added an mini split air conditioner into the garage home gym. Definitely gonna pull this endeavor during the summer.
Good luck with your project!
I just posted an update video ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
I'm in SW Florida. My workshop (all steel building, no insulation) is over 80 from early may to early October. Most of those days it is between 100 and 110 during the hottest part of the day. I look forward to this video very much.
I used aluminum duct tape at work. Even when I was careful, I’d get nasty cuts smoothing it. Balling up tape backing to press it is a great way prevent bleeding fingers. Other than that, it is what I’m planning to help my son with. Thanks.
Wow. I've looked at over a dozen videos on this topic and have not seen anything like this. Amazing. Very thoughtful design. Great editing and script. This changes my idea about how to do my garage door.
Thanks for the kind remarks. This project wasn’t supposed to be a video, it was just a project that needed done. Filming inside my 100° garage was a challenge. In the end I am glad I recorded it and that I am able to share this project/concept with the world.
Here is the follow up I just finished ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
Wow. Very impressive. I'm gonna do this for my garage door here in Florida. Thanks for showing step by step and explaining everything so clearly.
I'm in FL too - any luck? did you cover the vents?
I'm going to insulate my garage in a few weeks. Any updates on how it worked out?
Smart method with the air gap. I'm in the process of fully insulating & conditioning my west facing hot garage so I can do projects year 'round. I like this approach.
I just used Reflectix to insulate the interior of my cargo van for my camping trips. It made a tremendous difference for hot or cold!
I used the leftover material to make an insulation panel to shield my AC condensor in the patio from the summer sun. The area above the panel facing the sun was 140 degrees and the area below the panel was 95 degrees! The concrete floor of the patio where it is installed was 120 degrees!
Reflectex isn't an insulation, it's a radiant barrier.
@@evictioncarpentry2628 I do realize that, but it does cut down the inside temperature as well.
I've watched several of these vids and I like this plan the best, the double air gap will help to prevent heat transfer from on substrate to the next. Good plan. Thanks.
Nice video and great insulation, but if you want the super easy method, you don't have to build a box to get a fairly drastic change in insulation--you can just glue panels right to the door. Just cut 1" thick rectangular panels to your garage panel sizes, then simply put some caulk on a few of the high spots (clean the areas on the door first), slide in the panel and make sure it's resting on the bottom edge of the individual panel areas, press to make sure it has contacted the door/caulk and that's it (some use double sided tape). When measuring for the panels, make sure there's about a 1/4-1/2" overlap so the frame will slightly hold the panel if they come unglued, but mine never did.
I did this in Canada north of North Dakota and even when it was like 5 degrees out, I could make the single story garage 50 degrees or more with just a little space heater.
Going from a thin layer of highly conductive metal to a door with 1" of insulation makes a massive difference, even if you don't build a box and make an air gap. I just did it on a second garage recently. If you're going to use your garage a ton then I think maybe the box method is worth it, otherwise just slap up some panels ;-)
I wonder how the caulk would last in the insane heat we have? I feel like it might just cook right off. 🤣 I need to get the laser thermometer out, but I’m guessing my garage door gets to his temps or higher. The high today will be 110° F, and the garage faces west with FULL sun for several hours a day. I’m so anxious to try this!
the air gap will add more than you think to the R value
This is a great way to insulate! We are in Florida and will be doing this the same way! Thank you! Great video!
I wish you would have shown the thermal difference.
Makes me wonder why this isn’t just standard practice in warmer climates. Thanks for the video!
Expense. No builder is going to take on the cost and time unless the homeowners specifically pay for it. And doing it yourself is waaaaay cheaper than paying for an install!
Here is a follow up I just finished ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
Did you measure the difference before and after? That would be interesting to know. Nice job. I like the idea. I would've just like to know the cost value on your method. I live in Phoenix (HOT) and using a foil kit. So changing to your method is it worth the cost. Thanks
that is what i was waiting for.... where is the temperature test??????????????????????
Agreed. The whole point of going through this whole process is if there is a significant change in the temperature in the garage after installation!
I just published a follow up video on my channel with FLIR imaging and many data points. Thanks for watching!
@@MrFredsDIY How about total cost for the materials?
Great video. If only I had the tools and time. As a Las Vegas resident this insulation idea is fantastic. 👏👏 Thank you for making the video.
super clean install , sir!
Excellent explanation thank you so much I made it into the gorge and works perfect is between 15-20 degree different
Awesome! Another DIY success story!
Would really enjoy seeing a video regarding winter temps in your garage...Thanks!
Thanks for checking out the video! This winter in Las Vegas has been pretty mild. 45/50 at night. The biggest advantage I have found for winter it that when I use my Buddy Heater it reflects off the door and warms my work area. Thanks for watching!
Great Idea Mr. Fred I like the attention in quality and the ( No WRINKLES ) it does make for a aweson finish, I see at the beginning the door was 141 degrees and would like to ask what the temp was after completion the fallowing day, Looks great
The inside surface temperature of the door is always within a few degrees of the ambient temperature of the garage.
I like this design. I wish Fred would have shown how the cells hold up to several garage door openings and closings. I have found that the abuse of the openings and closings can cause insulation like this to start to come out of the door cells over time.
You can take it a step higher and get 1/8" wire rod (I used brazing rod from welding supply/Tractor supply type stores). Drill hole at top & bottom of panel and run rod down, bend at top end to keep in place. Does a nice job.
Foil-coated polystyrene (styrofoam) board is (at least in my area) much cheaper than Polyiso, and will perform effectively just as well. As to the "double-sided reflective insulation" - reflective barriers are one-way insulating strategies. The foil facing the outside will reflect radiated heat back to the exterior. The interior-facing reflective barrier will actually be hurting your efforts in a hot climate, as any radiated heat from objects in the garage will be reflected...back into the garage.
While the styrofoam can be more fragile if you scrape against it, I found its flexibility to be a bonus, wherein I did not have to cut spacers due to the design of my garage door panels that had a natural crevice for the board sections to hold their place in towards the interior side of the panels. I was able to cup/bend my board sections enough where they popped back into place once inside the metal lip of the door panels. I used no additional tape/foam/glue, and the panels have stayed perfectly in place since I did the project 5 years ago.
As to the "added weight/springs" issue some have brought up - polystyrene is also much lighter than Polyiso, such that (personal opinion only) - I saw no need to upgrade my springs, nor have I noted any detrimental effects of the insulation on the door mechanics.
As I watched the video, I did see that the interior-facing reflective barrier was facing into the inside; so, it is safe to say that it should be install facing the garage door(outside) instead?
@@JoseMartinez-dk1pw Depends on your climate and desires. In South TX, I’m far more interested in keeping heat out than keeping heat in.
@@justinjimenez6960, I totally agree with you regarding keeping the heat out; that is why I asked if the reflective barrier should be facing the garage or should be facing away from it. Thanks
I’m not an expert but I imagine if you’re in a climate that gets cold as well as hot you’d find it beneficial to help keep heat inside in the winters?
@@benjaminking5450 Yup. Whatever your need case is. For me, I've never lived anywhere I wanted to keep heat in.
Hey!!! This is great!!!.... exactly what my garage door needs!!!....and made easy!!! Thanks to you!!!😊😊😊😊
Great video with actionable advice. Thank you! Would love to have seen a temp difference from inside and outside on a hot Vegas day.
Thanks for the comments! I made a follow up video that has lots of temperature data points. That video is right here ▶️ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
Excellent video. I am just about finished with insulating two garage doors. The only issue I am having is the recommended tape is curling on the edges. I did clean the surface with alcohol, but it is still curling away. I may have to source another brand of tape to seal everything. Not happy about that.
Nice video, very easy to follow. Will this work for cold weather as well as hot?
Folks have told me that it works for cold weather too. When it’s “cold” here in Las Vegas (35°f) my little Buddy Heater has no problem heating up the garage to film a video or do a project.
Thanks for the solid video. Ill be trying this when I get see time in the next few weeks in preparation for summer
Good luck with your project! Here is a follow up video that I made with more information ➡️ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
I have a water heater and a refrigerator in my garage and yes it’s hot in the summer but it’s not to bad in the winter so I’m undecided if I want to do that.I like your choice of materials though and how you put it all together 👍
Looks really good! Thank you for sharing. I live in Arizona and am considering doing this with my garage doors. Just a couple of questions. You used wood spacers tabled to the surface. Do you worry that the heat will release the adhesive and these spacers will end up rattling loose behind the inserted foam panel? Could you have cut your panels from the width dimension, 48”, of the large foam for easier workability and less waste? Have you tested this for effectiveness? Please provide a review video months later if you can. Pros and cons and what you may have done differently. Thank you!
I'm on year two of my installation and haven't noticed any rattling. But I used dryer foil tape and put one on each end of the stick just to make sure it wouldn't slide around. Seems to be holding well because the foam pushes on the sticks anyway.
Great video! An extra bonus would be an explanation of just how effective it is at keeping the garage cooler.
A follow-up video is in the queue! Coming in July. Thanks for watching!
Here is the follow up I just finished ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
Thanks for the great detailed video Mr. Fred. I like your method and will do the same. I found the sheets at Home Depot. How many 4 X 8’ sheets do you need per garage door?
I used 8 sheets. There is a breakdown of matin the video description. Thanks for watching!
Do you have any tips on how to adjust the garage door springs? I love this design and if I'm going to DIY this, I would like to DIY the spring adjustment. I'm just not sure on how much of an adjustment I would need. Any help is appreciated. I love the videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for commenting! Those torsion springs scare me so I called my garage door guy.
Like what you did. Planning to do mine soon. It is very cold in Columbus, OH
Man, I wish I would have seen this before I insulated my garage door last year 😢 I did 1" foam throughout.. it works but this looks like it would work a lot better! Maybe on the next one!!! Good job man!
I appreciate you taking the time to comment and thank you for watching!
THIS! i saw this after i insulated my garage door and it doesnt look that good so i may end up redoing it with an air gap like this. Makes a lot of sense
You did a great job with the design, and explaining it, and then demonstrating the installation. You failed, however, to show a before and after temperature reading. You responded to comments asking about it but only by saying that the inside door temp was basically the same as the air temp inside the garage. You never gave us any numbers. What is the air temp in the garage!! Give us some sort of reference to know just how well it worked. Not doing so makes me wonder if you were disappointed with the results and don't want to get too specific with the results. The proof is in the numbers.
Yeah what a waste of a video. No facts
I agree!
I agree also, I watched the entire video to see the end results of all the work and money invested. I live in Phoenix and have the same heat problem but without seeing the end temps for the inside on this build it was a waste.
@@znelson32 Thanks for checking out the video. I just finished the follow-up ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
He said it was 117 degrees outside, without humidity in AZ and based on what he's wearing and not sweating it probably drops the temp about 25-30 degrees. We did this to our garage with temps in high 90's and high humidity and it cooled it to mid 70's
Wish you'd have shown the exterior temperature outside and inside before and after
Yes this update is needed.
@@HotmailHacks Here is an update I just finished ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
The exterior temperature shouldn't change.... it the interior temp that changes. If the exterior does change it will be very slight.
@@davids7209 I don't think you're understanding what everyone is trying to say here.
Exterior temp
Interior temp before
Interior temp after
These will indeed dictate its success.
Would have loved to see the same time of day with similar temps in the same time of year measured before and after. Another user posted that the foil should be pointed outwards, but foil is also conductive, as well as radiative. I think that its a wash between the two, but probably MORE resistant to heat leakage in climates that have colder climates as well when facing inwards.
Thanks for the insights. Having the reflective side inward helps with heating & cooling the garage space (even if only a little). Here is a follow up a year later with more data points. ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
The foil should be facing inwards with the white part facing out. It helps with IR barrier
Well done. I'm in a milder climate however, the humidity makes up for it. I'd like to see some up close assembly shots of what you were doing. The right spacer being shorter confused me as the left should have been shorter as well for the top panel to sit on both evenly, correct? What have you done to combat the exposed aluminum rails? They are essentially heatsinks as well.
Chris High, I think the left side of the door cavity is recessed. The 44" of the top panel does not go inside the recess, but sits on top at all the edges. The top and bottom is the same, not reduced width for top to sit on but to create the "box" edges.
Cool project and the little foam strips around the perimeter to make the "cell" is a good effective idea. The little lattice strips should keep the back panel from contacting the doors' surface. Theory is to limit the heat transfer and 2 little contact points hopefully reduce the transfer.
I edited my previous post... I watched again and the little scraps he tapes onto the back panel are the spacers to have some support for the top panel and another air gap. That right edge foam strip that goes in before he measures the panel lengths, was not a spacer (works as 1 though), but it was the edge of the "box" and was thinner because the top panel sits on top of it flush with door rails. I was a little confused too. Hope that helps.
I like the idea up to the tape. Not sure if the tape will hold up. After a year, did it?
Areas that were clean and dirt free have held up well. I have a few area that I have has to clean better and reapply. I have a follow up video for this on my channel. Thanks for watching!
thanks, i did it w/o the slats but good idea on them, maybe next time
Awesome video! Would you do everything the same if you were concerned about a couple months of very cold weather?
If I were in a mild climate perhaps I would do a single layer to cut down on cost. Thanks for watching!
This is great. It keeps the weight down, while having decent R-value and air gaps making it the best option. Only downside is its labor intensive versus other products but if you are going down this rabbit hole then this likely wont be a problem for you
this was definitely more inline with how i was wanting to insulate mine. I was also looking to use flashing tape before putting the panels in. I have a garage the sits right below my bedroom and I would love to lessen the acoustics as well as insulate.
I would like to see a before and after reading with a meter.
I made a follow up video to this one with a lot of temperature data. You can watch it here.▶️ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.htmlsi=aAXWGDMC5I8qzwmX
I wish you had tested with a single panel, two stacked panels and then the box. I think your design would win, but it's nice to see data.
Wow! Nice. What R value do you estimate you achieved? Also, did you measure temperature inside and out after completion? That would be very useful to know.
Here is a follow up I just finished. Thanks for watching ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
*Great ideal i wish we could have seen you do temp test through out the day. This may work for my situation . Im in texas and Vegas is typically hotter so this should work great. Is it still working well for you ? would you add anything else after having it for a while ?*
Here is a follow up for the video with lots of temperature data ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.htmlsi=A56m3zgpEA_b82xg
This is definitely the way to keep heat out with radiant barrier. Air gaps are the key that people fail to understand.
In cold or mixed climates, it won't be as efficient at stopping thermal heat transfer. But your in a mostly hot climate.
I chose 1.5" pink insulation for mine since I have both extremes of heat and cold. Definitely nice build.
Any results on temp drops for before and after?
I’m working on a results video this month! Thanks for watching!
Here is the follow up I just finished the follow-up video for this. Thanks for watching ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
What would be more efficient for mixed climates?
@@italiana7308 radiant barrier on both sides.
From what I understand the best air gap is about 1/2 inch. Any more and you have circulation and defeats the gap function. You are best to put more layers of insulation which have the microcells already in the material. The weight of the insulation is not important. You just adjust your garage spring so that the door is actually weightless.
Also the hot or cold climate does not matter. In a cold climate the hot area is inside and in a hot climate the cold area is on the inside assuming you have A/C. My wall of my house have R 20 insulation and on the outside is R 10 Blue SM. If made an airgap in the middle of my wall , it would just lower the overall insulation of my house and do no good at all.
The insulation value of a 1/2 inch airgap is about R = 1 while the 1/2 inch Polyisocyanurate is probably about R!0, so 10 times better than an air gap. Also if you use airgaps , in places that aren't walls so you have space for air gaps, to keep them to 1/2 inch or they are useless. The air inside quickly sets up a convection current and transmits the heat or cold perfectly.
I like this idea…I don’t like the tape showing because I’m a little OCD. But I do need some horizontal bars to reinforce my door from winds .. (Oklahoma) ..the bars could hold the foam in place…I need to think about this. Thanks for the idea for sure! What was the post instal temp? 😂
Thanks for the view! Here is a follow up video that has tons of temperature data!
Hello very good video!! What kind of tape are you using?? Thanks
Thanks for watching the video! The rape is Multi-Purpose Foil Tape, 46m Length, 48 mm Width, Aluminum
amzn.to/3iWcKaK
Thank you so much. I'll do it at my studio garage in Florida.
Thanks for making a great video that’s easy to follow. I do have a question, I noticed that the 1st piece of insulation placed in the door the foil was facing in. I could be wrong but wouldn’t u want the foil to be facing outward towards the source of heat?
Thanks for watching! My understanding is that both sides are foil faced but one side is reflective and the other is painted. Perhaps facing the more reflective side outward would be best.
****I had my own garaged door company in Phoenix area and have performed THOUSANDS of garage door service, repair and installation jobs. I am unsure of the weight you added to that door (5-10 pounds?), but you really should either adjust the springs (if only 4-5 pounds more added) or change them out to the correct size springs now that you've added more weight than those springs are rated for. Those current springs you have are zinc plated [Chinese] junk. Call a reputable garage door company that installs oil-tempered high cycle torsion springs (black in color) and be sure to have the tech weigh the door (I used 2 analog bathroom type scales to do so) and have them size up the correct springs so you not only have a balanced door with the added weight but also get many more cycles than those junky springs you have now. High quality, properly installed garage door torsion springs (and nylon coated steel bearing rollers) are worth the investment.****
I admire the creativeity and the detail, but I have to side with the 2" thickness vs the 1/2".
Although 2" is heavier, it is in NO WAY "heavy"!! Especially when only 3 1/2 sheets are needed for a double door.
It's also a little more expensive, but the 3 1/2 sheets needed at $46 each is only about $50 more than the 7 sheets needed if using the 1/2".
Additionally, rather than just the R-6.4 that you have, (R-3.2 x 2 layers), just one sheet of 2" would have given you R-13!
Finally, the heat trapped in the air gap STILL has to transfer and dissapate somwhere, and that will be whichever side is cooler.
I also dont see where the difference between 8 sheets of 0.5" vs your estimate of 3.5 sheets of 2" (maybe is just that the cell has at least two sides and you are not making the cell design
The one and only thing I’d do different is for the spacers I would not trust the one flap of tape I would use an adhesive and cover the entire back side of the spacer this way you can eliminate the possibility of the spacers failing internally
Disregard my last comment. I just saw your updated video. THANKS. 👍
I was hoping to see some Before AND after temp readings. Hows it do in the cold?
I made a follow up video that has more temperature data. That video is on my channel. This insulation performs well in our Las Vegas cold climate too.
You are a genius and a great communicator! I enjoyed this video very much! Thank you.
Thanks for checking out the video!
Great job! What was the temp after the panels went in?
Here’s a follow up video that I made with lots of temperature data▶️ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
@@MrFredsDIY wow that is a huge improvement
Nice work. I'm in Florida, my west facing door is 138 today. Only problem is that it's a hurricane rated door. It has EIGHT horizontal braces the whole length. Working around those will be challenging.
Wow! Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!
I'm in south Louisiana and also had to contend with a hurricane rated door. Those horizontal braces can be removed. It's fairly easy but definitely recommend a second set of hands. I removed one bar at a time, installed 1" polyiso board with 1" spacer blocks (polyiso) to achieve the air gap and to set the boards flush to the door panel flanges. I used 3M foil tape, which I found to be easier to use than the peel and stick duct foil tape. Once the panel spaces were all closed up, I'd replace the support bar and move to the next strip. Rinse and repeat.
My door is south facing, so it is exposed to sun Nearly the whole day! I'm sure you can relate, that door felt like a broiler when you got within two feet of it!
Using an IR thermometer, the inside of the panels read the same as the ambient temp in the garage - which this summer, has been frick'n hot! But it is still a significant improvement! Once I tackle some of the other sources of significant heat gain I should get that space under control!
@@randys2358 fantastic! Glad to hear it worked out for you. I’m finishing the follow up video now. It will publish Friday morning. The Flir 1 infrared images are shocking! Thanks for watching!
Here is a follow up to the video ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
In a FL home with those horizontal hurricane bars, I made horizontal cuts on opposite sides of the foam panel and used a Z-fold technique to fit the panels under the bar that gave a snug fit and worked well. No need to remove the bars.
🤔 Why use wooden spacers versus foam spacers?
Why the air cell between the foam panels versus three full foam layers?
I agree with the air gap between the foam and the metal as long as there is trapped air flow to the outside.
What was the Delta T (Deg F) between the outer skin and inner skin after the mod?
What is the fire retardancy of the foam, as well as the toxicity of the burning off gas? This is after all a garage. If the foam is flammable then applying thick AL foil or thin sheet metal w/ glue would prevent spark ignition.
Thanks for an interesting presentation.
I used the wooden trim because it was thin and allowed for a larger “cell cavity”. A solid thick piece of foam would contact transfer heat more readily than the cell design. Here’s a follow up video.ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
I'd like to know the before and after temperature inside the garage to see how much difference?😊❤
Here is a follow up video that I made with lots of temperature data Garage Door Insulated The Right Way (Proof It Works)
ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
Did something similar and after the first evening of working in garage added a layer of fabric to take the glare off the foil . Was maddening.
Like the design. You say 8 sheets of 4x8 will do the entire door? Assuming door is 16' wide by 8' tall. I was guessing given two layers and the edge pieces might take a sheet more?? Thanks a lot!
nice job. you could have given an update on the temperature difference after installation to send home the project.
I have recently published a follow up video on my channel. Thanks for watching!
Would have liked to see a comparison on the Temperatures after install both outside and inside.
Thanks for watching and here is a follow up video with that data. ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
as a fellow Las Vegan you're a legend
I am tempted to take some of these panels and just lay them across the top of the rafter beams in my garage since it is all just the exposed frame right now because my father in law doesn't want it dry walled or anything "in case something happens and we need to see what is going on." lol
Thanks for watching! Not a bad idea! I did something similar in my attic to make a storage room of sorts. I used the panels for the walls and ceiling. The goal was to keep dust off of the items. Worked well!
Nice video you gave us a temps before but not the temps after.
Did you adjust door springs to account for added weight? Even though weight seems light there are added lbs to the door which can affect door openers function. Just thinking out loud. Your system appears to be so much more energy efficient.
Thanks for commenting. The springs were adjusted, I had my garage door guy do that for me. Here is a follow up video with tons more information.ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.htmlsi=fs3Rf6SlQ2CM1a2c
Biggest concern is fire risk here, polyiso foam is rated only in applications where it is covered with a fire barrier of some sort
It is quite flammable, produces a ton of toxic smoke as it burns and is a hazard in an occupied space. Must do something to prevent fire climbing it, you’ll have smoke overtake the garage faster than time to safety get out
That is actually incorrect. From Polyiso.org: Polyiso insulation delivers a high level of inherent fire resistance when compared to other foam plastic insulations due to its unique structure of strong isocyanurate chemical bonds. These bonds result in improved high temperature resistance (up to 390 degrees F; more than twice the temperature resistance of other building insulation foams) which in turn leads to enhanced fire resistance. It also,conforms to code. Thanks for watching!
I applaud your effort but I do have some questions. How much did the cell system drop the temperature.? How much did all the material weigh? And overall, why did you put an air gap against the metal and then put the foil on the inside? At a minimum, that layer should face the metal. Then with your box structure would actually be more effective. It's also overkill to put foil on the inside unless your trying to hold heat on the inside as well. My final couple of comments are that perhaps using something more than that tape would be advisable since, if your door get's wet and then you open it it will subject the tape to water a little bit causing it to fail sooner, since that door will flex as it opens and closes as well which will cause the foil tape to come loose sooner or later. I used cardboard shim strips and sheet metal screws. Also, as cool as this was, even in Texas, I would assume you did this because your door faces south. Otherwise you could get similar results with a 1/2 inch gap at the metal, a .75 inch foil faced foam panel, glue/adhesive on the edges and be done in a fraction of the time.
Please show us the temp gauge readings after the insulation is on the door
Not to rain on anyone's parade but, Sika and Johns Mansville polyisocyanurate boards are now required to be covered by a thermal barrier. Sika states: "Installations utilizing R-Matte® Plus-3 must be fully protected on the inhabited side of the building by a thermal barrier such as a minimum of 1/2” gypsum wallboard." And JM states that "AP Foil-Faced sheathing must be separated from the interior of a building by either a thermal barrier or ignition barrier as required by code." All the foam plastic insulation products are now required to have this protection however most do not provide that information on their product, only in the fine print of their installation instructions. There were exceptions in some of the adopted codes for thicknesses and area limitations but they are not universal and many have been discontinued. The toxic fumes given off by these products are often fatal when inhaled.
Please note that there are some polyisocyanurate panels which meet higher standards and are not required to have a thermal barrier but those panels are very expensive and are not found in the box stores. Check with your local building departments and get a letter from them stating that the material in question may be left uncovered. If they will not give you a letter - look elsewhere for insulation. Clark County is unusually tough on this - a result of the MGM fire many years ago.
How well does this work for cold temperatures?
Here in Las Vegas it only gets down to freezing a few times per winter buy when it does, Buddy Heater makes the garage pretty comfortable.
You are my new hero.
Wait, no after install temperature results to show the benefits of the insulation? I went through the whole video hoping for positive results at the end.
I just noticed that you don't have a strut somewhere in the middle of the double door. I added one because it was sagging. Not sure if all garage doors need it but mine did.
Great video. What was the "after" temp on the inside of the door? In other words, what was the temp delta you created? Thanks!
Thanks for commenting. Here is a follow up video that I made for this project with a lot of temperature data ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html
The hindge supports are not insulated. Why did you not use spray foam to insulate? I like your approach and I intend to insulate each hindfge segment to make as complete a heat barrier as I can. Would appreciate your thought on this extra step.
Spray-foam is a good idea and the cost would be minimal. Thanks for watching!
Mr. Fred, do you find it also keeps the garage warmer in winter? Here in Texas, I'm sure it will work well in summer, but I'm wondering if it will reduce heat transmission out of the garage in summer?
It’s in the 40’s at night here now so not too cold. When I use my Buddy Heater it seems to reflect off the insulation and keep my work area warmer. Thanks for watching!
This is a very interesting approach to insulating a garage door. Fred, what air temperatures are you seeing inside of your garage now during peak outside temps?
Thanks for checking out the video! I am finding the most benefit in the afternoons when the sun is directly on the garage door. This is when my garage used to quickly heat up to 100° or more. Now it says between 85°-90° and I find that temperature doesn’t fluctuate nearly as much now either. I have a wall mounted swamp cooler out there as well. I find that it is much more effective now too.
@@MrFredsDIY Swamp cooler.... I haven't thought of those since I lived in Denver! Those work best in low humidity environments and Denver is a desert plateau.
@@davids7209 typically here in Las Vegas the humidity is very low. Right now is the heart of monsoon season so our humidity is a little high.
AWSOME....... im doing this... great video
I'm sure your solution performs better than mine, but I'm too cheap to buy those foam panels.
I just cut a bunch of pieces of R-8 duct wrap to fit in all of the panels, then cut 1.5" wide x 1/8" thick wood slats out of an old 2x4 to hold each piece in place. 3 slats per panel, with the ends tucked behind the lip in the door panels. No tape or fasteners.
Maybe $20 total, but I do HVAC work, so have a use for the other 80% of the roll of duct wrap. :)
Sounds like it works! Thanks for watching!
nice, how long do you think the tape will last?
I did this project back in July of 2021 and most of the tape is still holding up. I have replaced some of the pieces because the heat has ruined it. The original table I used was a very thick aluminum tape that I can’t seem to find anymore. Thanks for watching!
I think that you would have a better result even though more money using thicker insulation. The overall R-value is determined by the outside air layer, the garage door, the inside air layer, the insulation and the other inside air layer. Las Vegas still has some humidity so you might see some condensation on the very inside of the insulation.
Great video, Mr. Fred! Fun to watch, a solid approach, andw with the appropriate attention to detail. My only concern would be a situation where the aluminum door received direct sunlight on a recurring (daily) basis. This might cause the adhesive on the tape to fail prematurely, maybe at the end of a second summer? The sun (and in this case the heat generated by direct sun hitting the outside of the door) can be merciless with polymers, plastics, and various adhesives. Just a thought. Pls give us a follow-up at the two-year mark. Greatly enjoy all of your videos and your perspectives!
Thanks for the kind remarks! I’ve had a spot or two of the tape ‘lifting” but it seems like it happened on an area where the door was pretty dirty. Even though I cleaned the door with alcohol I feel like I could have been more thorough in a few areas.
How did this help out in the winter? Two of my rooms sit over the garage so it gets extra cold. Will this also help with that?
It does help in the winter too. Here in Las Vegas it can get down to freezing overnight in the winter. I have a small heater I use in the garage and the insulated door helps. Thanks for watching!
I can feel a draft of air coming through my garage door at the seams where the panels hinge and butt up against each other. Would covering those gaps with a bubble wrap insulation be a good idea or any possible better solutions? Yours looks great by the way.
There really shouldn’t be much of a “gap”. It could be that your door needs adjustment. Thanks for watching!
Might be a little expensive, use the rubber door strips with aluminum edge. Maybe your garage door man might have some rubber stripping that goes
on bottom of door. (Used/free)
Maybe I missed it but did you happen to do a before and after temperature check on the garage door from the interior?
what if instead of using all the extra strips on top and bottom... run a bead of expanding foam insulation between panel and door panel. the foam would push the insulation panel out against the lip of door panels and create a good sealed air pocket
Interesting concept! Thanks for watching!
Well done bro 👍🏼😬
Thanks for the demo and info, have a great day
Thanks for watching!
Would you mind doing the infrared now? (Inside and out)👍
Thanks for watching, the outside temperature in the full sun is the same. The inside surface temperature however is the ambient temperature of the garage within a few degrees. The door is no longer radiating heat.
Here is a follow up I just published lots of infrared images ruclips.net/video/PMiOitCwpak/видео.html