Stop Printing With Carbon Fiber Nylon
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- Опубликовано: 12 окт 2024
- The information contained in this video is for educational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional firearms training or instruction. Safety is paramount when handling firearms. Always follow the four rules of firearms safety.
Additionally, it is important to be a law-abiding citizen when owning and using firearms. This includes understanding and complying with all applicable laws and regulations. If you are considering purchasing or using a firearm, please seek out qualified instruction from a reputable firearms instructor. BY WATCHING THIS VIDEO, YOU AGREE TO THE FOLLOWING: You are of legal age to own and use firearms in your jurisdiction. You understand and will follow all applicable laws and regulations related to firearms. 
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Answers the initial question in the first 30 seconds, elaborates on testing methods and results for the bulk of the video, summarizes with a concise and actionable conclusion, and provides additional sources with more detailed data. This is just a good SciTube video by any metric.
Thanks man.
The best way to give information to people in a way they will remember, is to get to your point right away, then spend time explaining the process afterwards.
It's refreshing to see a RUclipsr get into the real content so quickly instead of waffling around for ten minutes before answering the title
LOL. Actually got the time down from 30 minutes with these aggressive cuts.
Hi, this is Mark from Siraya Tech. I found your video really interesting, and I agree with the results. These exact properties are what led us to develop PET-CF for our product line. We sell it on Amazon, and many people use it for 2A prints due to its stiffness, high-temperature resistance, lack of creep, and lower moisture absorption compared to Nylon.
I have used your pet-cf filament. Has performed beautifully for me
Hi Mark! Couple of questions - 1.) what can I do to make removing brims/skirts easier using your PET-CF on the Bambu Labs X1C PEI textured plate? I've had the biggest troubles removing the smaller printed parts, like small supports, or brims, skirts, etc. It becomes very very tedious removing this material from the PEI textured sheet on the X1C. And 2.) is your PAHT-CF better than your PET-CF for 2A prints? Any caveats in using PAHT-CF? Thanks!
@@nextlvlroy I like to ajust the distance of the brim from the print itself, it works beautifully
@@InternetUser-lj7um what do you mean? like make it much closer to the print that way it removes along with it?
If I were actually printing, I don't have the time for another time consuming hobby, I'd be throwing money at your company for openly supporting the scene.
We've dealt with fiber & nylon based plastics for years in the RC community; it may not work specifically for your scenario... but if you're worried about moisture ingress, try soaking your nylon pieces in WD-40 overnight. Works wonders ;)
Agree. Although wd40 is only the tip of the iceberg. Other oils work as well
Factual, fast paced, and not without some humor. 10/10
I read your documentation on mechanical test results of filled pa and pet filaments. Wanted to say thank you for putting this knowledge out there. This really taught me a lot, and I keep the copy on my desk since the day of the initial release.
"That's because Bear Creek uppers don't deserve them"
Shots fired.
also, true.
Why the hate? Consider me a poverty-tier upper enjoyer
@andrews.7754 i heard Bear Creek had issues... I recommend faxon + aero. Psa on a strict budget, but that's me.
Just quoting the video. They could be decent uppers,idk. Haven't checked in a bit
Haha I got a good laugh out of that one too. Seems like their uppers and barrels are ok but their bcgs, firing pins, and bolts just fall apart.
That was funny but both my BCA guns 450 bushmaster and 50 Beowulf stack bullets at 100 yards. But I don’t use BCA for other calibers. I bought them to try out and I have no complaints. But I was like “oh man why the poopoo on BCA?”. Your videos are great thanks
@@andrews.7754 several ppl have had issues. Just get PSA, better company & product, same price
And yet again another reason why in the end I just end back up on PLA-Pro for 2A stuff and just concentrate on temperature mitigation on the parts.
Great work dude, got straight to the point super quickly. I love it
Hoffman coming in with a scientific banger... I've literally only used Polymaker PLA Pro (except when I got my first Ender, using the included filament to print the Bunny) and love it so damn much. I'm a Polymaker stan fo SHO.
Love me some Polymaker.
So don't, uh, make a submarine out of it?
Humidity unfortunately exists.
FUCK im halfway through printing my submarine out of pa12 cf
@@HoffmanTactical "bUt it'S wAteR aNnEaLeD"
@@th600mike3 "After a certain point safety is pure waste." - Stockton Rush
Life, uh, finds a way..
I did not expect this quality, no slowed down speech, no bs video.
And the king of 2A freedom string remains undefeated. All hail PLA Pro/PLA + :D
Dang that PPA-CF from bambu labs is crazy! Twice the dry stiffness of pa6-cf and 50% more strenght than dry pa6-cf! Very impressive... Almost as impressive as that price tag! Yikes! 😬
It is. Just waiting on it to come back into stock.
Polymaker has one. And they basically made it for us.
@@paintballercali pps-cf? or ppa-cf?
I would have a hard time supporting anyone else they rock
@@InternetUser-lj7um”the promotional code you entered is not valid” do you need a url to get it?
Love the real world testing of filaments and am looking forward to your full results on PPA-CF.
The biggest issue with many filaments, in my opinion, is that once their moisture content is increased, they become brittle in sub 0 (Celsius) temperatures. Making 3d printed firearm components more prone to catastrophic failures the more they age (collect moisture).
I've never heard of this, will have to check it out. Yet another reason to stay from PA I guess.
@@HoffmanTactical I mean, it makes a lot of sense if you think about it. Layer lines might even be little pockets of moisture and we all know that water is a bitch that expands when it freezes.
Its a classic "the material HAS TO survive the climate it'll be used in. You don't see gasoline engines in Antarctica, only Diesel (last i checked). In upper midwest were temps can be 105F in summer but reach -20F regularly (few yrs ago, 100x days of subzero)...You WILL NOT see electric vehicles become ppl's only vehicle: they don't do well in such cold temps.
Same goes for gun parts: oils have to be able to withstand the cold/high temps; even the materials have to. IF it was a glock frame: it'll prob be OK if its not outside for long periods: AR/rifle receiver...I'd just get billet aluminum for stuff that is STHF/EDC.
@@WolfofnoStreet That kind of "if you think about it until it makes sense" is very effective way to pull you arse first into a wrong rabbit hole that you can't climb out of anymore by yourself. But let me pull you out of there before you get fully succumbed to it.
The comment is about material property called brittleness. It is not about the mechanical strength of the structure itself. While pockets of foreign objects and gases or liquids will make any structure weaker regardless of what material it is made from, it doesn't affect the material itself to make it brittle.
Some materials have a property to diffuse outside substances into the material itself in molecular level. This is what it means when a material's moisture content is increased. Essentially, the moisture becomes part of the material in molecular level changing its properties in certain conditions, in this case, making it brittle in cold temperature.
*Checks my inventory for PET-CF* Damn, don’t have a roll! Placing order now. Great video - appreciate all of this info!
Imagine the first guy to make a wooden stock then someone says "don't use wood, it will absorb water!" Seal the nylon cf after you print it and it won't absorb moisture. I seal my nylon prints in 2 coats of ceramic, 1 or 2 coats paint, 2 coats clear matte. All my nylon cf prints are rock hard and will last years if not decades. The ceramic also increases heat resistance.
But the parts you typically print are sub mm precise, adding an extra layer of material over the surface as a coating can throw off precision. How exactly do you cover the internal surfaces without disrupting mechanical precision?
@@TheSquizzlethe doesn't protect the insides. He's operating on sunk cost fallacy. It is cope.
Awesome comment! This was my first thought during the video - glad to hear it works 😊
@@acmhfmggruasa-gf has worked for me.
@@acmhfmggru I'll speak for myself thanks. You're also wrong, I do coat the inside.
Missed your content! Glad to see your back to making amazing tools
Well, if it absorbs moisture, it will absorb other liquids, so just stabilize it like they do for weak but pretty wood.
Put it in a vacuum chamber in an epoxy resin, suck the air out, then take it out and let it cure.
No more absorbing moisture and it will be harder and stiffer!
It's not entirely the same as it's not just air pockets that you can easily access from the outside but water working its way in between the molecular strains over time due to the hydrogen bridge bonds and strong polarity
Where can we find the paper you wrote?
Also, Ulitimaker has a page up on annealing PET-CF:
Increased strength 30%
increased stiffness 10%
Increased heat resistance 80 C to 180 C
decreased layer adhesion -15%
Shrinkage
The layer adhesion part is interesting.
can find the paper on odyssey, go there and search hoffman tactical
@@HoffmanTactical Yeah, I wasn't expecting that
Happy to see you back doing videos
This is why you cerakote it. I think you will find it will weaken to temperature before moisture.
I'm a big fan of finishing parts. I see a lot of youtubers, and random people create fantastic projects. But in most cases they're never finished.
Printing and fine tuning, maybe sanding the areas over the supports, is not actually finishing.
That's (part of) why people "finish" wood with some kind of "finishing compound" like linseed to protect the wood.
Why not do the same with printed parts? The painted projects tend to last longer.
EXACTLY. As soon as I finished prints in Nylon I've contacted a caerakote supplier. I'm planning on getting prints cerakoted. It only adds up to a half thousandth to a thousandth worth of growth over the material which is tiny and shouldn't impede function.
it's a waste of money to finish something that will never be reliable for use. it's mostly for fun. if you want a serious use weapon, get a real lower, it costs way less than all the material you'll be investing into a 3d set up plus cerakote, etc, etc
That’s very smart actually, is it worth it to cerakote PLA+ or PETG? Or should this be done with Nylon?
@@lucrativelucas2655
Anything that can hold its shape at 300° F (148.9°C).
Just be **CERTAIN** the part is completely dry once printed.
@@cagneybillingsley2165
Its never a waste to finish a project you started by yourself : )
Doesn't matter if it's quad copters, miniatures, cosplay, or literally anything. Finishing a project gives that feeling of completion in addition to a sense of accomplishment and satisfaction knowing you made the project yourself.
Besides AR lowers can be as expensive as 3,000 dollars by themselves.
Nice shouts out to the FBI agent. Than was Good One.😂😂😂😂😂
Gota love those guys.
That spool has a really handsome face on it
Sure does.
PA66 would be more ideal.. but it has a higher melting point, so I'm not even sure it can be used in 3D printing. This is typically what is used in most of our motor driven hand tools like drills and impacts and saws, etc.. I'm not sure how it would show in the creep test though
I took a less scientific approach to come to pretty much the same conclusion you did about pa612cf only I never annealed.
Squirted out 3 glock lowers one in pa6gf, pa12cf, and PA612cf. Build them with PSA slides then full sent them into the concrete as hard as I can about 5 times each. Only the 612cf survived so thats what ive been using ever since lmao
I think i ran into you at a gun show years ago. I couldn’t figure out where or if it was you. You said Tennessee so I’m sure it was you. That was back in the good ole days of legal solvent traps
LOL.
@@HoffmanTactical I don't want to parasocial but east middle or west?
Do a super safe torture test with different filaments to determine the most reliable material for the application
THIS!
Already did. PA12-CF from Polymaker is the only one that meets the requirements.
@@HoffmanTacticalI know someone who is using PA612-CF for the cam and lever. I believe over 500 rounds on them both, though it is in a super safe macdaddy build, not an AR15 (beta on DD).
@@_Livefreeordie_ I was just going to ask @HoffmanTactical if PA12-CF works, does that mean PA612-CF would work (slightly higher Young's modulus, slightly lower yield stress, significantly higher bending modulus). Good to hear there is someone with success.
@@_Livefreeordie_ As long as you can print with enough detail, the PA612 should do better than the PA12. It just won't print with a 0.25.
Your annealing might be affecting, positively, the crystallinity of the PA6. Increasing hardness and geometric stability in our environment. Ordinarily thick walled injection molding PA is very tough due to the high crystallinity of the inner walls curing at a much slower rate. Printing PA has a minimal crystallinity affect because the very small inner area of the melt stream gets cooler much faster ceasing the crystallinity affect of slow cooling.
Love your stuff Hoffman!
I think PPA-CF is gunna make people shit bricks, certainly promising and cant wait for you to tell us how it performs
Yes, it does look good. Wondering if it might have impact or adhesion issues. Only one way to find out.
Bambu PPA-CF is next level. Incredibly easy to print and unbelievably rigid. The only problem is now I want to print everything out of it.
@@HoffmanTacticali commented this already but im really curious to what u think, have you ever considered pouring low melt metals inside hollow 3d prints, pewter and zinc can be cast in silicone molds in air so some 3d filiments can certainly withstand the heat too, aluminum and zamak might not melt though if the hollow 3d mold is submerged in water while metal is poured in the mold. The idea being metal filled 3d parts which stay together
yeah, $150 for 0.75kg, hell no.
Bro was all like "SCIENCE, SCIENCE, SCIENCE, SCIENCE!"
And I was all like "hEaLl YeUh!¡!"
🤣🤣🤣
Oh, man! I'm livin' in the 19th century! I've literally only ever printed with PLA and a tiny bit of PETG. So far so good, but then I'm not doing anything fancy like you. :) Thanks for the great info!!
fwiw, i spent many years as a process engineer in plastic injection molding. we manufactured hundreds of thousands of parts for very reputable firearm companies. every one of them were manufactured with Nylon 6-6 GF. in fact, many times and against my wishes, production supervisors would direct material handlers to incorporate ~50% regrind... which is terrible.
I'll also point out that these weren't necessarily top tier critical parts of firearms, but it could be argued that every piece contributes to the overall safety of the weapon.
obviously, we are discussing different manufacturing technologies here and I'm not even sure there is a filament blend of PA6-6GF, but it might be something to mull over.
It's been a while nice to see you back and sharing. 👍👍👍
You should do a video like this specifically for the best filaments to use with super safety type applications. Working on my AUG SS shortly and it would be really helpful knowing what filaments we could get the most out of.
Be careful with Bambu CF filaments (and half the others out there). For lowers and hand held stuff it’s fine - but caution around any stocks or prints you plan on putting on your face or near mouth. Their CF flakes off very easy and gets in your skin and becomes airborne.
That video had so much influence. I find that a light wax (think hard shoe polish) helps prevent fiber contact.
@@HoffmanTactical right1. I should have added that. I designed a few cheek rests for my 45-70 lever action... then saw the video. I have a beard and having that CF scrubbing on my face when I'm breathing heavy was a huge scare. I sprayed them down with clear coat and now with microscope I cannot see any fibers flaking off anymore.
BTW... ProtoPasta filament in CF doesn't leave flakes at all. I've tested a few. (after printing. beforehand it does). I'm sure there's others, but that's one I tested, and prints fine with bambu default CF settings.
Love the time you put into the work. And you share!
great video and was a pleasure to bump into you at iv8888 rangeday this year!
Have you tried Siraya PET-CF? It's often available for about 50USD/KG and feels very strong and stiff, but I don't have equipment for detailed testing.
Based on the destructive tests I do with all filament as part of dialing settings in, it holds up to a lot.
Even if it ends up being no good for this stuff. For outdoor, automotive, and similar areas, it could be a good option.
Not yet, but it looks solid.
For anyone still wanting to use nylon,
Dry print like you would filament, coat with epoxy or cerakote to seal in the nylon and seal out the moiture. not only sealing but also taking astetics up a few notches.
Always an amazing amount of information. Thank you for sharing and all the hard work.
Hoffman is the "Young's Modulus version of Paul Harrell" in the 3D2A space. Fantastic video. Let's see some Saraya Tech Pet-cf comparative testing next. Ty!
I got myself some PA612-CF that I really like, but didn't realize the importance of annealing. Thank you, I'll check that out.
"...maybe i need to STOP. But I'm NEVA gonna stop..." -THE MEMPHIS STRANGLER
The thing with nylon is not necessarily that it becomes softer if it absorbs moisture, it is supposed to do that- both because dry nylon is too brittle, and because nylon is hygroscopic and you physically can't stop it from absorbing moisture once it's out in the air. There's no such thing as dry nylon, dry nylon part is an unfinished part. If finished part that was designed for PLA (or, worse, shamelessly ripped off a part injection molded part) is too soft when printed in nylon- redesign it to be thicker where needed, now it's stiff enough.
The problem with nylon in precision applications is that it warps not just as it's printed but also as it absorbs moisture, and that warping has to be accounted for in the part design to have the right tolerances when it gets to operating moisture, regardless of how it's manufactured. Glock's frame is nylon, and if you take one hot off the press and assemble into a gun, I'm sure it will either not shoot or shoot once. They have to sit for a while and take in the water first, and as they do, they get closer to their final shape.
PET really is a wonderous material, and it's good to see shine with the advent of 3D printing. It was held back by poor properties for injection molding of large parts, but 3D printing's slow, layered process opened it up for many new applications.
Also shoutouts to PLA, the king of "what you design is what you get". After nylon's "we heard you like warping so we made it warp twice", it's nice to have somethng that just gives you precise parts off the build plate. Well, as precise as FDM printing gets.
PPS-CF10 💅🏼
What nozzle temp are you running? I still need to try my roll of PPS, but Polymaker recommended 320+ C.
@@HoffmanTactical .4 or .6 nozzle 300C
bed temp 110C
speed 15mm/s
30mm brim (a bit overkill but works)
If you have overhang issues just increase part cooling a bit.
i’m running it on a P1S and P1P so this works for me until I decide to buy a hotter end or wire some resistors onto it to trick the temp…
I find they say 320+ but printing slow seems to just work for us.
@@HoffmanTacticalWe need annealed pa612-cf vs annealed pet-cf.
I also picked up some pet-gf at 3dPrintopia to test as well
@@DeskPop Omg deskpop! hype!
@@HoffmanTactical Can DM you or anyone else the filament settings too; just let me know on the gram if you want em.
Glock polymer2, or nylon 6. P80's are made from glass filled nylon. As a material, by the processes used by major manufacturers, it is very suitable. If your theory is true, it would indicate that nylon is deficient due to the printing work flow/process, more than the material being an issue.
This man is a legend
Have you tried any 3DX tech blends? They advertise "Very low moisture absorption yielding improved retention of mechanical properties even when exposed to humid environments" with their nylons. I've been happy with their products and they're made in the USA so I wish they got more love.
I've not actually. Should check some of their stuff out. In general though, the US filament companies tend to oversell and underperform. Not saying 3DXtech is guilty of this, just probably why I've not considered their products more.
Bambu PPA-CF is amazing. I printed a Form 1 .22 suppressor core from PPA-CF and it is very, very hard. I mag dumped 100rds through it from a .22 pistol and barely saw any blast baffle erosion.
.22
Awesome! Though to be fair, ABS will actually hold up to this as well.
Lol Algorithims. I was like Oooh Whatchee Printin' Masks? and then looked at your Channel Name,I don't firepew but I made former Government some custom 1911 grips. I still need to finish the Auto 9 grip mod for my BB gun replica. I finally got the digital know how to do it.
Nice video. Good update. Thanks for the work you do man.
Excellent work, thank you for what you do man.
I couldn’t get this data on my own so it’s so very appreciated
PPS-CF might be worth a look as well. I know not many consumer printers can print with it right now, but the Qidi Plus4 can and is at a very attainable price point.
Just updated my firmware to print PPS. Looking forward to it.
As always, i really appreciate your thorough, scientific approach to this testing. I look forward to reading your documentation. With that said, I've never been fully convinced that the water-in-a-plastic-bag conditioning is a realistic representation of the kind of moisture a dry-use nylon part will absorb from the environment in the real world.
It's basically 100% humidity. Not everywhere get's that, so in dry areas you are better off. But here in TN, it's WET.
Most test the material for breaking point which I hate. The creap is so important in tight tolerance prints. Great graph
love your work Hoff! keep up the amazing content.
This is also why larger industrial 3D printing manufacturers recommend hydrating nylon based prints immediately after printing. The parts need to be designed based on the dimensions they'll grow to post hydration. The carbon fiber should increase the rigidity of the material substantially. If this material doesn't behave in this manner, it is not being utilized to the maximum capability for the given raw material ingredients.
He also used Taulman nylon printed at 260 which is way too cold for any layer adhesion. So his results are not reliable given that factor.
@@Nerfherder-oo7iv yes, so his long term shear strength will be poor but I'd be curious to see if this is presenting as a flexibility issue or if there are 2 critical problems.
The issues with Alloy 910 were not related to layer adhesion.
Cool test. Now please do it again with heated chamber prints. I'd love to see what the changes are .
With these filaments it probably would not have a huge effect, layer adhesion primarily.
I've been saying this for years, and not only does it get "flexible" when absorbing moisture BUT potentially WORSE is that it becomes brittle when too dry. GF Nylon is better, but still not optimal. Most composite guns are a mix of ABS/PC with Glass Fiber, same with any good power tool or generally any tool that uses plastic like hammer handles.
ASA Glass Fiber IMO should be a great candidate in my 10+ years of 3D printing everything that prints under 320c, IMO would be best. PET-CF is great, but may be too stiff and could possibly crack/shatter. ASA has very little to no creep and excellent shock property's, along with Glass Fiber would make it even better and prevent water absorption issues. With that said, apples and oranges when comparing the "same" filament from different manufactures. Millage WILL very
For critical parts used for this type of printing you seriously need to print under 35mm/s, and 15mm/s with minimal cooling will get you near mold like strength. Excessive part cooling WILL temper the plastic, i.e. why annealing is necessary afterwards. Enclosed, heated enclosure is best. Generally when printing that slow you can have your part cooling fan off and about %15 (different for every machine) for overhangs and bridging/support.
I'll second the part about slow printing. As to ABS / ASA GF, I should try some. Only used carbon and kevlar filled ABS so far, and was not very impressed.
Creep is a wild thing, if at any point you remove the load prior to the sample falling it will bounce back and reset the clock
Trying to understand the 2000psi to 20lbs of force ratio 🤔
Polypropylene with glass/carbon fibers might be a good candidate. It's a highly impact resistant material that is very stiff with the added fibers. I haven't been able to test it
You are a national Treasure Hoffman.
Did you print the Pet's in a heated chamber for the video?
Also, Polymaker PPS-CF would also be a great filament to test with Bambu PPA and Sirya' PET-CF.
Nope. Prints great at room temp.
Yeah, I think IDEX is important. Really three materials. Use a 1 dissolvable for supports, use a 2 lattice inside of glass filled or carbon fiber 3 nylon. But I could be wrong.
Have you ever thought of trying to infuse pla or nylon prints with resin, like when u make regular carbon fiber parts or fiberglass. I feel like vacuuming resin into the layers might help with stiffness and so it doesn't gather moisture
I exclusively use PET-CF and PET and have done so for the last couple of year. BASF PET is a bit of a weird one as it's super brittle (explodes like a grenade made of glass when overloaded!) but it's wonderful to print with and tolerant of UV and pretty much every household chemical. They both have the advantage of giving off little in the way of VOCs and particles when printing so likely a bit safer to use in a home office. Annoyingly BASF PET is damn expensive versus PLA unless you buy it in bulk.
Surprised to see your thoughts on PETG. It is a hard material to get the settings just right and work with I'll admit that, but prints seem to be fine with .8 mm nozzle for these applications. I do add additional reinforcement to the stl models in blender also though where needed. Thanks for all your work on the SL9, the lrbho you implemented was exceptional. Cheers from VA!
Under the right loading PETG will shatter. Seen it happen many times with lowers as well as in testing.
What manufacturer of PET CF do you recommend? I just purchased the SL9 full kit the other day. Keep up the good work!
Bambu looks the best right now. But Polymaker would work.
I have fallen in love with ABS-CF ...no warp and all the bennies of ABS (heat, impact but is very stiff). Have you tried this material in your projects?
Yes, was not very impressed. What ABS-CF are you running? Might be worth another look.
I’ve been using polymaker pla pro for a minute now and love it. I’ve not printed anything 2a related but I’m glad to know it’s a good choice.
Nylon is hygroscopic and elastic, which isn't going to make a good ingredient for a carbon composite.
getting flashbacks to ASTM testing labs in college.
I have also inadvertently created a binary trigger from trigger/hammer creep 😂 That's why I love your reinforced design
LOL. Yup. I've had this happen.
Great tests! helps me with picking filament for my prop projects
Did you see the 2x CF Nylon cans that failed while I shot through them at Eric’s last weekend? I felt bad for the guy that made them. One of them was a catastrophic failure on the first shot.
He's doing some cool stuff, had a great talk with him. Knew one of them failed. Layer adhesion is what gets to you with 100% printed cans. Needs a sleeve.
PCTG might be worth looking at
Already did. Unfortunately has similar issues to PETG, just less predicable.
So... the main take away is, print more with PETG?
😉
Use the same stock on both.
The problem was the butt stock was flexing and binding the buffer on the nylon lower.
Looks like a 3D printed stock,
Both lowers use the same mil-spec buffer tube. The printed stock is just that, a stock. Not an integrated buffer tube (like the Orca). I can assure you this problem is very real.
I use primarily Prusament PA11-CF. MUCH lower moisture retention, and decently stiff. I'd love to see that added to your testing.
Yes, never got a chance to test that one. How badly does it warp?
@@HoffmanTactical I use an enclosure with manual preheat and temperature regulation. I have had zero warping issues. I do not anneal, and I have used it for components mounted directly to an air cooled engine (motorcycle)
Goo video, appreciate you making this video before i purchase any nylon with how expensive it is. Ive read through your experiment and discussed it online but hesring you explain your reasoning helped
I think we all love pla pro, but its temperature resistance is a huge problem. I ruined a bunch of followers by leaving them in my car
Yes. Testing + learning only for PLA Pro. But to be fair, that's most of what we do.
So you are missing one of the major components of the carbon fiber nylon is what type of carbon fiber is it. If you wamt ill send you some filament that is carbon fiber nylon which will blow your mind compared to your results.... ok maybe not blow your mind but it will change it a decent bit.
I've seen a lot of manufactures using less than optimal fibers. But so far no evidence that better fibers help significantly. It's fiber length that we struggling with. Let me know what you are running.
wait, u said at 4:18 to check description for the data, am i blind? i dont see it there
Decided to leave it out due to our friends at RUclips. They don't like that type of thing. It's not hard to find if you look at my Odd Sea page.
@@HoffmanTactical ah! i was thinking i would find it there as well then forgot about it LOL thank you!
I 3D print all of my lower recievers out of CFK( carbon fiber reinforced kevlar filament)
I'm interested how you print Kevlar, generally not a thermoplastic.
Going to watch this tonight, but what is the ideal filament if CF-Nylon is no longer recommended?
PET-CF.
Love it! Any chance we could get an updated print options guide for making the jump to .6 nozzle?
The current guide covers that. But I should revise it.
If it’s dried back out does it regain its rigidity?
Yes.
Way to go. This kinda info is hard to get. I was a pa6 gf advocate for years..... I mean it worked for injection molding
Yes. I've seen this a lot, the Nylons and fills used in filament are just not the same.
Polymaker PA612-CF was amazing until they brought in a bad batch. Just FYI
I've had that happen with a lot of filaments. Is it a current problem? Or just one lot.
@@HoffmanTactical Seems like it was the worst about 2 to3 months ago, ended up returning 4 to 5 spools. The one I tried in Sept was good again, but by then I was trying NylonX, which seems to be a better material for small magazines. Doesnt shrink as much either. But ordered a spool of pet-cf to try now as well.
Couple of questions, does the PLA Pro still deform in the sun?
Why should you not use PETG? You said it sucked but didn’t give details. And how does ASA perform?
I've covered PETG in the past and honestly figured it was common knowledge. Basically weak and very poor impact resistance.
Have you done any testing with Siraya Tech PET-CF? For the price it would be interesting to see how it performs versus the Bambu Labs PET CF. I appreciate your work.
I will do so.
*me printing drum mags and 50 bmg barret lower out of it * Nuh uh
A Barrett lower would be cool if we could get parts kits...
@@HoffmanTactical well I believe the upper comes from the all the main parts just including the bolt and I think missing spring ( 6,500 $ -5000) but the trigger would be other deal other then I only see issue if the spring my break the printed lower . 💀I’m not gonna jump into that until I can make me drum mag for desert eagle but definitely looking at why not to use carbon fiber ……yet
The yield in the PM PET-CF still gives it a temp advantage over the PLA+ , so maybe not a bad choice if that's what you can get.
I think it would hold up in almost all cases, may be worth the lower clogs alone compared to the Bambu. Need to print more parts with it though.
Just started the vid but I know it'll be good ty hoffman
How brittle is PETCF. CF generally gets its strength from fiber alignment done on purpose. Random strands of CF in resin will be stiff but fragile.
Not brittle. And you are correct to some degree. In the case of FDM prints, the fibers are ~70% aligned, so it's not horrible.
Great work my dude!!!!!
Have you tried HT-Pla from Filacube out of Texas?
I haven't printed any 2A stuff but I use pla + religiously and in my experience it warps if left in the sun for a few hours.
Correct. That's why it should be reserved for testing + learning.
I'm sticking with PA6-CF right now, simply because I can anneal it, I like 2kg spools, and Bambu PET-CF is roughly twice as expensive. I'll keep an eye out for Bambu sales, though.
I see what you mean about not needing to anneal PET-CF, but it's probably best to do it anyway for anything exposed to operational heat, like barrel mounts or even handguards. Unannealed, the HDT is closer to 80C than the >200C you see on the stat sheet.
The Polymaker PET-CF is a lot lower cost and worth a try.