Thank you! My son and I just did this today and now my F-150 no longer has the clunk. We needed to put a little penetrating oil to free the drive shaft from the differential but it was a great learning experience for my son.
Worked perfectly, thanks. My mark to know which hole lined up where got washed off with the wd40 to unseize it but it went back fine regardless. Seems to have completely fixed the minor "clunk" issue.
@@DRIFTWORKSINC I have a 2002 F150 2wd. Paid a shop $700 to change out the passenger axle and change the pinion bearing. 3 months later and it’s leaking again, and I’m sure it’s their fault because my truck made a noise after I got it back from them and they wrote it off as “road noise”.
@@KINGRG1 Yeah I have some noise with the new rear end but I don't feel any looseness so just keeping an ear out for it. It's the preload on the bearing that's worth taking to a shop. Can you get them to fix anything like a 90 day warranty thing?
@@DRIFTWORKSINC I wrote them a negative review after driving another hour 1 way to them and they wrote me off when I knew something wasn’t right… so I just fessed up and said screw it… I’ll keep my ear out for the noise.. When I take off it feels like a medicine ball rolls to the back of the truck. If I feather the gas real soft on takeoff it’s non-apparent
I have an 05 F150 that I bought used and has had that clunking sound when I start off from a dead stop. I doubt that the person who had the truck before me did any maintenance to the drive shaft. Sounds like that may be my problem. Thanks for your video, it gave me a bit of piece of mind as to what that sound is and not something more sinister. I will have to have the work done as I don't have a place to work on my truck....which that sucks.
not a lot of bolts i would feel i absolutely need to torque down to speck. but the entire engine is delivering its power on those 4 bolts... ive made my mistakes not tightening crap down enough... break calipers can rotate and punch into your rim when one of the bolts pop out lol.
@@dcfgarage I feel like the 1 piece shafts are a breeze compared to the 2 piece with the carrier bearing tbh lol I got mine balanced the same day I was leaving for a 1400 mile trip. The shop where I took it took care of it. Super pleased.
@@mkilic10 I was under the same impression. Bought a new DS for my 2011, installed it and instantly felt a subtle vibration at take off that had me second guessing it. Called my mechanic and he referred me to a specialist who builds custom DS. He ended up taking about .006 of runout off of it. He got it within a .001 runout and it worked well after.
My '15 4x4 1 piece DS had a clunk from a dead stop. It want away after I changed the Transfer case fluid. I've read that lots of the cases are under-filled from Ford. My tube of blue grease is still sitting on the shelf.
I have the same issue. It recently showed up. Time to get it done. Thanks alot for the video. Way easier than I expected. Since I work at the Ford dealer I’ll probably just have my guy do it on a lift in 15 minutes while he’s doing my brakes. OEM replacement rotors warped in 4,000 miles while my calipers are like new and performing great. Just a bit of fyi. They are not the same quality metal as original equipment. 🤔
Thanks for the info. I always have a feeling that the quality of all the parts that are delivered to the factory is better than the ones sold to the market. Even if you buy OEM. The spline lube is really easy and it gets rid of the annoying clunk... definitely worth it.
keeping it aligned in the correct orientation is critical. as you know, these shafts are balanced. make a line with a paint marker. both ends. and dont use brake kleen. theres a coating on the splines. wipe it out. 👍🏻
I replaced my driveshaft and marked it but the mark worned off by the time i got a new drivershaft 😱. How will i know where it should be without further damaging anything?
I have an 05 supercrew 4x4. This started happening..and before I knew it, my driveshaft broke in half while I was sitting at a busy redlight! Fix these.
Yep, my 2015 F-150 has had that bump thing going on for a while now. I was thinking a bad U-joint. QUESTION? Is there any grease fitting on the U-joints or is that F-250 and up? Thanks for you video! Will be doing this SAP. Cheers from Michigan.
hi, im hearing this clanking sound you mention but only when i accelerate from 0mph. my dad also noticed the leafsprings jump up a little as i accelerate. do you think this could be my diagnosis?
@@dcfgarageclanking was the wrong word. it sounds more like a single thud that also comes with a small jump at the rear end. my mechanic wants to open up the differential...
Awesome. I purchased my 21 F150 last week and have driven a 1000 Miles since. I noticed this today and cant ignore it since. I'm assuming this is the fix as an online thread I read the guy had the same exact issue. Its either this or the U Joint but 3 Yrs and 30K miles shouldn't be an issue. I'll try this and report here. One question, would this issue, if not fixed, affect the truck in any major way?
hello I have a ford f150 lariat 2018 80000kls with the same driveshaft problem I went to Ford they removed the driveshaft and lubricated it with PTFE grease and the noise disappeared thank you
This is for the f150s and 250s with the one piece drive shaft. Mine is a 4x4, but if it's a 4x2 with the same driveshaft, it applies. I believe these driveshafts come with the max tow package that includes the bigger differential.
So do you need to lift the truck or is that just for convenience ? Trying to rebolt in neutral is just spins freely. Anybody know a way to get around that ?
Chock the wheels front and back. Jack it up by the designated jack point, use jack stands. That makes it easier to get in and out from under. Jack it up a bit by the diff just enough to clear the wheel. This should give you enough wheel play to align the flange to the 4 bolt pattern.
Hi. I know this video is old. But do you have to re-line up the splines when putting the drive shaft back onto the transfer case? Dealer did this and then I started getting vibration at high speeds
Thank you! My son and I just did this today and now my F-150 no longer has the clunk. We needed to put a little penetrating oil to free the drive shaft from the differential but it was a great learning experience for my son.
That’s awesome!
Right DP, will hit those with some PB Blaster real good day day before. Good reminder.
Thank you! That's bump has been bugging me for YEARS! Will be doing this soon.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the video. Just greased my driveshaft. No more clunk. Spline was dry. Probably never has been done. Truck has 240,000 kms.
Worked perfectly, thanks. My mark to know which hole lined up where got washed off with the wd40 to unseize it but it went back fine regardless. Seems to have completely fixed the minor "clunk" issue.
Awesome news!
That clunk for me was a the loosening of the preload on the differential bearing and the backlash feeling/sound that was associated in the driveline.
What year was your truck?
@@KINGRG1 2010 (new rear end this year, just crossed over 180k)
@@DRIFTWORKSINC I have a 2002 F150 2wd. Paid a shop $700 to change out the passenger axle and change the pinion bearing. 3 months later and it’s leaking again, and I’m sure it’s their fault because my truck made a noise after I got it back from them and they wrote it off as “road noise”.
@@KINGRG1 Yeah I have some noise with the new rear end but I don't feel any looseness so just keeping an ear out for it. It's the preload on the bearing that's worth taking to a shop. Can you get them to fix anything like a 90 day warranty thing?
@@DRIFTWORKSINC I wrote them a negative review after driving another hour 1 way to them and they wrote me off when I knew something wasn’t right… so I just fessed up and said screw it… I’ll keep my ear out for the noise.. When I take off it feels like a medicine ball rolls to the back of the truck. If I feather the gas real soft on takeoff it’s non-apparent
I have an 05 F150 that I bought used and has had that clunking sound when I start off from a dead stop. I doubt that the person who had the truck before me did any maintenance to the drive shaft. Sounds like that may be my problem. Thanks for your video, it gave me a bit of piece of mind as to what that sound is and not something more sinister. I will have to have the work done as I don't have a place to work on my truck....which that sucks.
You can do this on the street. It’s a 20 minute job
76 lbs is the tour we spec for those 4 bolts
Thanks for that Brandon!!!
not a lot of bolts i would feel i absolutely need to torque down to speck. but the entire engine is delivering its power on those 4 bolts... ive made my mistakes not tightening crap down enough... break calipers can rotate and punch into your rim when one of the bolts pop out lol.
The Lucas red tacky grease works better for me . Great video thanks
Used the same one. It worked
Did it ever come back or it still going strong ?
Make sure that new driveshaft is balanced! Just did mine and had to take it to a shop and get it balanced….best of luck ya’ll!
I ended up being good. But these one piece shafts are a pain
@@dcfgarage I feel like the 1 piece shafts are a breeze compared to the 2 piece with the carrier bearing tbh lol I got mine balanced the same day I was leaving for a 1400 mile trip. The shop where I took it took care of it. Super pleased.
Unless you drop the driveshaft on ground or hit it with a hammer, you are good. These driveshafts are not being balanced on the vehicle.
@@mkilic10 I was under the same impression. Bought a new DS for my 2011, installed it and instantly felt a subtle vibration at take off that had me second guessing it. Called my mechanic and he referred me to a specialist who builds custom DS. He ended up taking about .006 of runout off of it. He got it within a .001 runout and it worked well after.
Torch and box wrench works with a pipe extension but my carrier bearing was fubar with littie rubber left auto shack 400 next time
My '15 4x4 1 piece DS had a clunk from a dead stop. It want away after I changed the Transfer case fluid. I've read that lots of the cases are under-filled from Ford. My tube of blue grease is still sitting on the shelf.
I did this on an older truck without ever jacking it up.
you can; however, it is hard to do if one of the bolts stay at + position. It is easy if they are aligned at X position, though.
Thanks for the tips. Hopefully that will take care of it.
Good luck!
Great video keep in mind 2024 Ford no longer uses blue grease it’s white now 👍🏻
Invest in a Ball Pean mechanics hammer and not a Carpenters hammer
Thanks for the tip
I have the same issue. It recently showed up. Time to get it done. Thanks alot for the video. Way easier than I expected. Since I work at the Ford dealer I’ll probably just have my guy do it on a lift in 15 minutes while he’s doing my brakes. OEM replacement rotors warped in 4,000 miles while my calipers are like new and performing great. Just a bit of fyi. They are not the same quality metal as original equipment. 🤔
Thanks for the info. I always have a feeling that the quality of all the parts that are delivered to the factory is better than the ones sold to the market. Even if you buy OEM. The spline lube is really easy and it gets rid of the annoying clunk... definitely worth it.
That's not the transmission is the transfer case where the slip yoke goes in to.
Thx for the video
Thanks!
I wish they would have a grease zert on there, so you could just pump it full!
100% agree
You might want to spray the underside with a lanolin rust inhibitor like Surface Shield or Wool Wax etc to stop the rust and save the frame.
Thanks for the tip
This is a great tutorial video... Thanks for the info.
I wonder if just regular grease will do the same job?Thanks for the video I've got the same issue & will be doing mine soon.
It will stick really quick
keeping it aligned in the correct orientation is critical. as you know, these shafts are balanced. make a line with a paint marker. both ends. and dont use brake kleen. theres a coating on the splines. wipe it out. 👍🏻
Thanks
I sit recommend every oil change or ?
Thanks
Fantastic video thanks for all your help
Thanks
The ole impact ranch.
Lol
I’m pretty sure this is what’s going on with my F-150. I live near the coast and the rusting probably doesn’t help.
I replaced my driveshaft and marked it but the mark worned off by the time i got a new drivershaft 😱. How will i know where it should be without further damaging anything?
tried this with ford grease didn't last maybe 6 months
Same here, used the Ford “repair” kit. Lasted less than a year.
There called a 12 point socket
I have an 05 supercrew 4x4. This started happening..and before I knew it, my driveshaft broke in half while I was sitting at a busy redlight! Fix these.
Hi, thanks for the video, is this a temporary solution or fix the problem completely?
It’s the only fix. Every couple of years you need to re-grease it.
How long did this grease last before the clunk returned? Or is it still good?
I drove it for a year and it didn't come back. I sold the truck and got a 2018 that has a two piece drive shaft
@@dcfgaragemy long box is has a clunk. Any tips?
I had a chit-chat with a Ford technician about that. He told that it is a good idea to grease it every 30k miles.
Mine lasted only for a year on my 2010 2wd
I notice mine when im going slower
Yep, my 2015 F-150 has had that bump thing going on for a while now. I was thinking a bad U-joint. QUESTION? Is there any grease fitting on the U-joints or is that F-250 and up? Thanks for you video! Will be doing this SAP. Cheers from Michigan.
Could be a bad u joint. You can inspect that easily. Modern trucks don't have grease fittings
hi, im hearing this clanking sound you mention but only when i accelerate from 0mph. my dad also noticed the leafsprings jump up a little as i accelerate. do you think this could be my diagnosis?
I don't think so. Clacking to me would be something loose
@@dcfgarageclanking was the wrong word. it sounds more like a single thud that also comes with a small jump at the rear end. my mechanic wants to open up the differential...
Drives me crazy these trucks don’t have grease fittings to just hook up a grease gun. My Tacoma id do about every 15k
100% agree!
If ur getting clunk noise if a bad ujoint it's only gonna get worse I would replace the drive shaft
It's not a bad u joint kind of cluck. It's just a slight clunk when going from coasting to acceleration and back.
And this only happens to the one piece driveshaft
Do you put it in neutral or park in order to spin the back wheels?
In neutral. Make sure you chock the wheels before u lift the truck
I get a clunk or thud when I let off the brakes from a dead stop. Would this help with my issue?
That was exactly my issue. Provided that you have the single piece drive shaft, and that your diff is good
Awesome. I purchased my 21 F150 last week and have driven a 1000 Miles since. I noticed this today and cant ignore it since. I'm assuming this is the fix as an online thread I read the guy had the same exact issue. Its either this or the U Joint but 3 Yrs and 30K miles shouldn't be an issue. I'll try this and report here. One question, would this issue, if not fixed, affect the truck in any major way?
It doesn't affect the truck. It's just a comfort thing
hello I have a ford f150 lariat 2018 80000kls with the same driveshaft problem I went to Ford they removed the driveshaft and lubricated it with PTFE grease and the noise disappeared thank you
Happy it helped!
I did it in mine and now it vibrates a little bit.
Check if you put it back in the same position and bolts are torqued
Oh, is this for a Two wheel, rear wheel drive F-150? Is the 4x4 F-150 different? Have not been under it yet. Thanks!!!
This is for the f150s and 250s with the one piece drive shaft. Mine is a 4x4, but if it's a 4x2 with the same driveshaft, it applies. I believe these driveshafts come with the max tow package that includes the bigger differential.
So do you need to lift the truck or is that just for convenience ? Trying to rebolt in neutral is just spins freely. Anybody know a way to get around that ?
Chock the wheels front and back. Jack it up by the designated jack point, use jack stands. That makes it easier to get in and out from under. Jack it up a bit by the diff just enough to clear the wheel. This should give you enough wheel play to align the flange to the 4 bolt pattern.
Just for filming
Can you do this by just lifting the back of the truck?
You can
Thank bro ! Gonna try to fix my 2016 .
Happy it helped!
Great diy. Could you tap and thread a grease zirt into the assembly near the spline ?
There are some videos in youtube of people doing that. I personally like things stock, but I guess you could do that.
@@dcfgarage They used to have a grease fitting there until auto companies got cheap
Can you do the same to the front drive shaft?
I’m sure you can. I just didn’t need yet
Hi. I know this video is old. But do you have to re-line up the splines when putting the drive shaft back onto the transfer case? Dealer did this and then I started getting vibration at high speeds
I've never heard of realigning the splines, but I made sure that i matched the same holes in the diff when putting it back
You absolutely must re-align the spline back onto the transfer case. The vibration is caused because your dealer installed the spline incorrectly
@@bingobunga8995 based on pictures it looks like the female side is keyed. Does that not make you put it back on correctly?
he may have mis-aligned the rear diff side@@zachthelen2223
Will it contaminate the transmission fluid?
I don't think so. It comes from factory with it. Like any other grease, it dries out after a few years
I would think there should be transmission fluid or gear oil if it was a transfer case that would keep shaft lubed
What’s and impact ranch?
Lol!
Hey man you think this can be done with grounded tires?
It would be 100 times more difficult putting it back
What kind of impact driver is that?
It's a Chicago Electric from HarborFreight
@@dcfgarage thank you sir
@@dcfgarage Thank you sir
What kind of grease do you use?
Sorry it took me a while to responde. I used Ford's Pfte grease.
Genuine Ford Fluid XG-8 PTFE Lubricant - 3 oz. a.co/d/b7EhfmE
@@dcfgarage thanks, I will give it a try on my 2017 f150
You needed a bigger hammer! 😂
Lol!
Is this a warranty issue or is it on me to fix out of pocket?
If you still have warranty, you should definitely take it to the dealer
87lbs