Great video. Be struggling for months with this on ring gen 2 cant get mains voltage. I will try 15v but can you give more detail on which cables are connected on doorbell for transformer please
Tried all of this as shown and the indoor chime still did not work. The ring bell works fine. When I reset the bell the indoor chime seems to bell once but that's it. Please help.
I found this video while trying to solve the exact problem above. I want to explain the issues I encountered. I bought a Ring Pro 2 unit. I followed your video and instructions and can safely say it will not work. I used 2 different transformers, the 24volt supplied in the box and a bell transformer with 8v, 12v and 24v. The voltage out from the transformer at 12 volts (terminals 1 and 3) registered 16 volts on the voltmeter. However when wired as you explained the voltage dropped. The ring doorbell functioned, be it a bit slowly, and the Byron 776 solenoid hummed and buzzed and the striker acted erratically and produced a smell. A ding followed 10 seconds later by a dong and the striker shaking. I then tried ports 1 and 2 (12 volts)...no power to camera and no ding dong and finally ports 1 and 4 (24 volts) no sound from bell and camera powered up and acted as normal but no sound from the Byron. It is obvious to me therefore that the Ring Pro 2 is not compatible with a normal mechanical door chime. I cannot vouch for any other model of doorbell from Ring, but to any person thinking of connecting a Pro 2, dont waste your time. Thanks for the video though. Can you confirm the exact model of doorbell from Ring you installed Georgey?
I previously used this video to wire a Friedland Facet 2 which was about 20 years old. When I moved house, I took the Ring Pro with me but needed a new chime. I originally bought a Honeywell DW313S which was on the Ring list of compatible devices, but after hours of struggling I contacted their support only to be told it was not compatible -- a 'typo' on their website apparently :-( So, I bought a Byron 776 and removed the transformer just to keep things as simple as possible (although it was entirely unnecessary). I wired it identically to how Georgey Porgey did, but I think the way he's described doing it in some of the comments below is inaccurate. It goes like this: 0 = Ring Pro (top left) 1 = unused (top right) 2 = Ring Pro / Transformer (bottom right) 3 = Transformer (bottom left) Also, he use 1 and 3 on the transformer, but I stuck with 1 and 4 as recommended by Ring and it's fine. Thanks Georgey Porgey, couldn't have done it without you (both times)!
1 and 4 from transformer to 3 (1 from transformer ) and 4 (4 from transformer) to door bell? Could you please confirm this. Only 3 and 4 had the wires door bell once transformer is out.
Thank you for the fantastic explanation Greogery. I have got a question please, I have got a doorbell that requires 8 to 24V and I have the Byron 776, I am wondering if there is a way to bypass the chime and use the 8 V only to feed the doorbell?
Used your video to wire up a with battery doorbell. Anyone out there I have mine on terminal 1 and 4 and used a BG transformer from Screwfix. Thank you for the video mate
Just an update. I followed the instructions and was having problems with my transformer overheating. What I did was request a Pro Powerkit V2 from Ring. I installed this inside the Byron 776 across both terminals on the left hand side. I’m using the Ring Pro with the Byron 776 built in transformer and it’s working fine. Voltage is reported as good with 4046mv, well within specs. The bypass kit supplied with your Ring pro can actually be used by removing the sticker that is over it. Peel back the sticker and you’ll see terminals. You need to attach wires to the connections and in turn connect those to your Byron doorbell. So to recap the Ring Pro will work perfectly fine with your Byron 776 built in transformer!
Q1: Have you bypassed the mechanical chime? The solenoid doesn’t seem to move in the videos and I can’t hear it ding dong over the volume of the digital. Q2: Have you simply replaced the solenoid power in from the new transformer to 2 and 3 and take the feed to the button from 0 and 1? Rather than the normal button feed from 0 and 2? Thanks
Solenoid is still connect and works amazing. With the connections. I connected from terminal 1 and 3 which suppose to be 15 volts but if you git a voltage tester it's actually gives you 16volts. Hope this helps.
might be helpful to someone in the future - I set mine up with a setting to use the wireless chime (but still connected top left and bottom left to the existing wall chime box - basically each end of the coil wires you can see going into the coil below the terminals) as some might want to use both with the wireless as a repeater. As the wiring was tho to the old bell box anyway so made sense to use the existing chime. You have to use the B/P wiring as shown in the instructions with the existing wall chime (which is not shown here). I used the settings to connect the door bell as wireless chime - but as the Wal chime is hard wired it still also works on operation of the door bell. My installation is was an Eziviz - but similar to other makes and models. Below is a helpful wiring video for the ezviz. ruclips.net/video/VGaHKC7Jr3g/видео.html
A Massive thanks for your help , I have a question : I bought Lorex doorbell with 16V~24V and one Chime box kit. and My dorbell is Byron 776 with 8 Volt . Do I need to install Chimer kit ? Do I need to unplug the Byron transformer and replace it with this kind of transformer ? In the manual they ask to connect the cble to the Front and Trans pin ? but what I have are 0,1,2 and 3 which one Is Trans and Front ? very thanks.
Hi can you explain why your using 2 cables per terminal? Even the Live and Neutral cables, it looks like you have 2 going into the transformer. It also looks like you have 3 wires connecting to terminal 1 and 3 wires connected to terminal 3. This can also be seen on the terminals to your door bell. Obviously your not using bell wire, but surely you just need a single wire per terminal.
How is your input wired in? Have wired mine through a CB to N and it trips RCD for sockets. If I wire it through another CB (central heating) in series the boiler keeps switching on/off. Am I doing something wrong or problem with transformer? Doorbell works when wired through heating CB. Cheers
Had the transformer on the ring with the twin socket next to it but now I've been renovating my home and I've put the ring transformer in my new consumer unit.
You don't need to use it if you want the byron door to chime aswell also you need to disconnect the 230v supply to the 8v transformer when using the ring transformer.
Georgey Porgey I’ve done it. All fitted and working. The issue I’m having is the doorbell striker vibrates slightly making a humming noise and also causing the transformer to heat up. Has anyone else had this issue?
Georgey Porgey thanks for the reply! My pro came with a ‘pro power kit 2’ which they ask to be connected between transformer and doorbell. I’m about to connect mine similar to yours using same chime and the provided transformer. Yours still working well? And would still recommend this method? I’ve got the same doorbell, was told the pro power kit would limit the voltage across the chime / solenoid when the switch isn’t pressed preventing any humming.
@@georgeyporgey9661 I have seen on their website that bypass connector works as circuit which protect the ring bell if there is any fluctuation, basically its protection device for ring door bell. i thought i share this with you guys.
Hi again, sorry to be a pain but could you confirm the connections on the Byron doorbell, the top connection looks free, although the description says transformer goes to 1.
Ok the supply from the transformer 1st cable to the lower left and 2nd cable to the lower right. Then 1st cable from the doorbell to the top left and 2nd cable from the doorbell goes with the cables at the bottom right connection
Just curious why have you gone through that hassle when you have the ring chime box plugged in already? Is it so you can power the bell? If so, is there a way to silent the default chime box so only the ring chime sounds?
Thanks for the video, I'm trying to do the same setup. Could you please simply tell us which terminal numbers on the Byron doorbell I should connect to the ring transformer, and which terminal number should be connected to the ring pro doorbell? I tried 2+3 to the transformer, and 0+1 to the ring pro but it doesn't power up the doorbell
@@georgeyporgey9661 thanks. I spotted in one of your other replies someone had said 1 and 3. I tried it on ring 24v terminals and it worked for a few hours, when I came back in the morning the circuit breaker had tripped and the ring transformer had fried. The Byron still works. I also tried using the Byron 8v supply, which did power up the Ring but after ringing once the Byron would permanently buzz. I've just received a replacement from Ring. Have ordered a Friedland chime which apparently will work on 16v. Will wait for that before attempting to connect it all up again.
The 776 unit actually outputs at around 15 to 16 volts so you could have taken your 230v mains supply direct to your chime unit. And doing away with the ring transformer 😊
@@dougiemillar8597 does the pro require more volts? Reason I ask is because I have a ring doorbell 2 which needs 8-24v, the Byron 776 has this at 8v pre installed but I’m afraid I may need just abit more? I wouldn’t want lose some functions like love video, night mode or anything else at all, plus a lot of people saying it has a humming noise? Sorry also I do want to keep the classic British ding dong
@@kousafyhan4117 so the ring equipment does require upto 24v a standard doorbell setup in Britain is anything from 8v to 16v. The Byron kit says 8v but when you actually test it it's output is around 15/16 which is enough to work the full set up.
@@dougiemillar8597 that’s fantastic. I have spoken now to Ring three separate times and I can honestly say they have no idea, I say that because of the information given is always different and even against the previous advisor spoken to. The most I have been told is that my current Bell Deta 3500 has an output around 6V. I am hoping to install the Byron 776 and wishing the transformer will be enough for my Ring Doorbell 2. Again I’m very great full for your advice.
Hi, I have moved into new built home and has the same transformer inside the bell box, can I just replace that transformer with the one provided by ring within the same bell box instead of installing new one as I am not Pro like you :)
Georgey Porgey thanks a lot for the reply :) I have ring doorbell Pro, I have the same 8V transformer in the bell box where blue and brown cable go and there is earth cable as well.
@@hemantrathod6235 the ring transformer wont fit in the byron bell box you need to get a separate unit for the transformer. Screwfix sell a wylex 3 module ip65 enclosure. They are £11.01.
Hi George Thank you for this post. I have an unbranded 8V (Ac) chime connected to my fuseboard and the chime goes to my Pro. I put the Ring transformer in to the fuse board and placed the bell cable in 1 and 4. I tried it in 1 and 2 and it was not enough to power the doorbell video. Do you think I should use 1 and 3? I have set the chime to mechanical in the app. All appears well and everything appears to be working as it should. Ring said today that I'm likely to burn out the chime as the power rating does not appear enough. They have a ring Pro installation kit on route to me. I am not sure how it will help. Do you know? Is my set up OK?
@@georgeyporgey9661 I don't have any sort of reader. I am not an electrician 😊 What's the worse that could happen with my set up? Doorbell powers and chimes. But board says 8v and not 8 - 16v
HI Great video , i Guess my ac adapter which was going to power my pro door bell work , the ac adapeter is 18 volts with the special loops to hook on the back thanks
I think the 24v transformer us a bit much for the doorbell due to the voltage fluctuation we get in the UK. 18v in my eyes is perfect. I'm glad my video has helped you. Thanks for viewing my video.
The reason you were getting 27v AC from the Ring transformer was most likely because you were measuring the no-load voltage. The voltage should drop once a load (the camera) is attached and drawing current...
@@alexgull271 yes I have put 15v/16v via the solenoid because when ringing the door bell I want to hear the chime just in case I loose wifi or internet connection.
@@georgeyporgey9661 that’s alright noticed you did this a while ago and sometimes people don’t come back to older posts lol I have a deta c3105 doorbell which is common and it has a built in transformer. Can’t I just wire up the ring outside to the current bell set up? Don’t understand why they sold it on its own and made it so stupidly complicated in this country to fit the damn thing.
You need to find out what's the voltage going out of the doorbell transformer. Normally standard door bells are 8v. The ring doorbell pro requires 16 to 24v That's why I wired from the main distribution board to the ring transformer then across the solenoid which gives the minimum 16v supply aswell rings the chime doorbell.
connect this to here here and here isn't a useful explanation. What wires from the doorbell does to what terminal on the chime or transformer? What wires from the transformer go to what terminal on the chime?
Thanks for the video. I was hoping you could help me as I also have a uPVC porch and I am trying to figure out how to wire the doorbell. I noticed that your bell push is at the join and looks very neat. Do you mind explaining how you did the wiring? Did you just drill through at the join? Thanks
Well I drilled 1 side of the join from the inside and went straight out. The doorbell is wide enough to hide the hole and the cables. I also used the ring pro backing plate to mark the pvcu join and scored it a sharp knife. Then run the knife down the side of the join. Got a used chisel and tapped it with the hammer. Just got to drop abit if upvc silicone around it and all done.
thanks for the video its very helpful . 2 questions i havent got an existing wired doorbell and the consumer unit is some way from the front door so i now have the 776 to work with the ring pro . is it possible to provide power from a plug straight in to the ring transformer ? secondly which wylex housing did you use for the transformer ? it looks nice and neat
Hi, great vid. Just wondering how you got your mains wires from your consumer unit - did you make a hole in the consumer unit and feed the L&N through? Also, why is there two lives and two neautrals going into the transformer? My set up at the moment is bell wire from push button to door chime. How do I incorporate the Pro into it?
Hi there. From the main board it goes to the ring transformer. Then out the transformer on the 16v side in bell wire to the solenoid then out the solenoid with bell wire to the push button.
Hi Georgey, thanks for the reply. My door chime is powered by a 9v batter, but I believe it can be mains powdered as well using a transformer. Is there an easy way to identify which terminals ti connect to? Theres 4 terminals, 2 connect to the battery and 2 connect to the bell wire. I assume I need to introduce another bell cable into the chime from the Ring Pro transformer? Thanks
No because my bell unit is mains driven with a 240v input and a step down transformer to 8v but I contacted byron who make the bell and I asked them when testing these bells what voltage have you push too and they said 12v.
Hi there, Thanks for the video. My transformer has just 2 terminals, but mains cable coming into it is t&e. What do you do with the earth conductor? And how to you connect the other end into the consumer unit?
So you have connected the out going of the transformer with dermal 1 and 3 then you connect on the solenoid sides of the bell not into the transformer of the bell.
Thanks so much for posting such a great video - Just what I need. I have the same components. I tried terminal 1 & 4 but it didn't work. Unfortunately, I cannot get around your wiring. I noticed you are using x pair twisted cable. Would you be kind enough to share more details on how these need to be wired. Your help will be gratefully received. Thanks :)
The answer is in the video, just need to listen carefully. don't have to use twisted pair cables. I used speakers cable. The two cables (doesn't matter how these are connected) from Ring Bell goes into 0 & 2 in Byron. And the two cables from the transformer (1 & 3) goes in to 2 & 3 in Byron (there's no specific relation there either). All works as a charm. Thanks very much for a GREAT VIDEO :)
Hi, if I just wired the Ring Pro into the Bryon bell with the built in 8v Transformer, what would happen? Would it work alongside the chime? Or do I NEED to use the provided transformer? @@georgeyporgey9661
Great info. Exactly what I needed thanks- it would be great to know the terminals used on the solenoid as this is still a little unclear in the video- but at least we can see how to do it- the Ring info is so poor and lacking details.
This doesn't work. I had exactly the same setup. The bell functioned once then wouldn't work again, So I'm guessing the solenoid is new blown (maybe). I did connect to the number 3 power slot. Its a real pain as my chime device constantly goes offline and I'd rather it be connected to my traditional doorbell.
Thanks for the video, it's really helpful. I'm looking to do the same, but without the Ring chime. Does the live camera function work as I've read this would require more load? Have you had any issues with your set up or does this still work?
@@Abc_Heating sorry for delay yes it will buzz because the voltage is slightly higher than there tested voltage. I know they are supposed to be 8v but I asked byron and they push the test voltage to 12v. So yes you will get buzzing as mine does aswell.
@@georgeyporgey9661 I've managed to sort it out, thanks for the reply. I will do a video very soon to help people, I'll also link it and credit it to you as you were the 1st person to do this. So thank you very much.
Have you used the 'Wylex 3-Module IP65 Insulated Enclosure With Visor' ? Are there any other brands of enclosure you'd recommend for the Ring transformer please? I would ideally like something a little smaller. Shame there isn't a mechanical door chime enclosure (available in the UK) that could accommodate the Ring transformer.
Thanks for the reply. I have ordered a Byron 776 this evening. I am going to visit my local CEF tomorrow to check whether the Proteus 2 Way Insulated IP20 Enclosure would be deep enough for the Ring transformer. www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/45765-1-or-2-module-insulated-ip20-enclosure
If you used to be an electrician , you shouldn’t be endorsing this method. Not going to go into the technicalities but would not recommend this to anyone.
Great video. Be struggling for months with this on ring gen 2 cant get mains voltage. I will try 15v but can you give more detail on which cables are connected on doorbell for transformer please
Tried all of this as shown and the indoor chime still did not work. The ring bell works fine. When I reset the bell the indoor chime seems to bell once but that's it. Please help.
Any idea if the Byron bell will still work if the Ring loses interest condition?
I found this video while trying to solve the exact problem above. I want to explain the issues I encountered. I bought a Ring Pro 2 unit. I followed your video and instructions and can safely say it will not work. I used 2 different transformers, the 24volt supplied in the box and a bell transformer with 8v, 12v and 24v. The voltage out from the transformer at 12 volts (terminals 1 and 3) registered 16 volts on the voltmeter. However when wired as you explained the voltage dropped. The ring doorbell functioned, be it a bit slowly, and the Byron 776 solenoid hummed and buzzed and the striker acted erratically and produced a smell. A ding followed 10 seconds later by a dong and the striker shaking. I then tried ports 1 and 2 (12 volts)...no power to camera and no ding dong and finally ports 1 and 4 (24 volts) no sound from bell and camera powered up and acted as normal but no sound from the Byron. It is obvious to me therefore that the Ring Pro 2 is not compatible with a normal mechanical door chime. I cannot vouch for any other model of doorbell from Ring, but to any person thinking of connecting a Pro 2, dont waste your time. Thanks for the video though. Can you confirm the exact model of doorbell from Ring you installed Georgey?
Hi your video is very helpful but can I ask you have two white cables coming into your chime where does the other one go to ? Kind Regards
I previously used this video to wire a Friedland Facet 2 which was about 20 years old. When I moved house, I took the Ring Pro with me but needed a new chime. I originally bought a Honeywell DW313S which was on the Ring list of compatible devices, but after hours of struggling I contacted their support only to be told it was not compatible -- a 'typo' on their website apparently :-(
So, I bought a Byron 776 and removed the transformer just to keep things as simple as possible (although it was entirely unnecessary). I wired it identically to how Georgey Porgey did, but I think the way he's described doing it in some of the comments below is inaccurate. It goes like this:
0 = Ring Pro (top left)
1 = unused (top right)
2 = Ring Pro / Transformer (bottom right)
3 = Transformer (bottom left)
Also, he use 1 and 3 on the transformer, but I stuck with 1 and 4 as recommended by Ring and it's fine.
Thanks Georgey Porgey, couldn't have done it without you (both times)!
1 and 4 from transformer to 3 (1 from transformer ) and 4 (4 from transformer) to door bell? Could you please confirm this. Only 3 and 4 had the wires door bell once transformer is out.
@@rajhossain1956 Do you mean 3 and 4 to the chime? My chime is labelled 0-3, if yours is 1-4 then 3 and 4 would make sense.
Thank you for the fantastic explanation Greogery.
I have got a question please, I have got a doorbell that requires 8 to 24V and I have the Byron 776, I am wondering if there is a way to bypass the chime and use the 8 V only to feed the doorbell?
Why do you bother to connect the mechanical chime anyway? just from the Ring transformer directly to the doorbell itself.
Used your video to wire up a with battery doorbell. Anyone out there I have mine on terminal 1 and 4 and used a BG transformer from Screwfix. Thank you for the video mate
Hi , are you able show me a wiring diagram ?
How do wire it up if you don't have existing doorbell... Please can anyone clarify...
The Byron 776 is my existing door bell I have wired it so if the WiFi goes down the door bell will ring.
Just an update. I followed the instructions and was having problems with my transformer overheating. What I did was request a Pro Powerkit V2 from Ring. I installed this inside the Byron 776 across both terminals on the left hand side. I’m using the Ring Pro with the Byron 776 built in transformer and it’s working fine. Voltage is reported as good with 4046mv, well within specs. The bypass kit supplied with your Ring pro can actually be used by removing the sticker that is over it. Peel back the sticker and you’ll see terminals. You need to attach wires to the connections and in turn connect those to your Byron doorbell. So to recap the Ring Pro will work perfectly fine with your Byron 776 built in transformer!
Hi, any chance you could do a video showing this please?
Hi wondering if you can help?
Q1: Have you bypassed the mechanical chime? The solenoid doesn’t seem to move in the videos and I can’t hear it ding dong over the volume of the digital.
Q2: Have you simply replaced the solenoid power in from the new transformer to 2 and 3 and take the feed to the button from 0 and 1? Rather than the normal button feed from 0 and 2?
Thanks
Solenoid is still connect and works amazing. With the connections. I connected from terminal 1 and 3 which suppose to be 15 volts but if you git a voltage tester it's actually gives you 16volts. Hope this helps.
might be helpful to someone in the future - I set mine up with a setting to use the wireless chime (but still connected top left and bottom left to the existing wall chime box - basically each end of the coil wires you can see going into the coil below the terminals) as some might want to use both with the wireless as a repeater. As the wiring was tho to the old bell box anyway so made sense to use the existing chime. You have to use the B/P wiring as shown in the instructions with the existing wall chime (which is not shown here). I used the settings to connect the door bell as wireless chime - but as the Wal chime is hard wired it still also works on operation of the door bell. My installation is was an Eziviz - but similar to other makes and models. Below is a helpful wiring video for the ezviz.
ruclips.net/video/VGaHKC7Jr3g/видео.html
A Massive thanks for your help , I have a question : I bought Lorex doorbell with 16V~24V and one Chime box kit. and My dorbell is Byron 776 with 8 Volt . Do I need to install Chimer kit ? Do I need to unplug the Byron transformer and replace it with this kind of transformer ? In the manual they ask to connect the cble to the Front and Trans pin ? but what I have are 0,1,2 and 3 which one Is Trans and Front ?
very thanks.
Thanks for that get around but... why should we do this Ring should cover all market voltages it’s just not good enough.
Hi can you explain why your using 2 cables per terminal? Even the Live and Neutral cables, it looks like you have 2 going into the transformer. It also looks like you have 3 wires connecting to terminal 1 and 3 wires connected to terminal 3. This can also be seen on the terminals to your door bell. Obviously your not using bell wire, but surely you just need a single wire per terminal.
How is your input wired in? Have wired mine through a CB to N and it trips RCD for sockets. If I wire it through another CB (central heating) in series the boiler keeps switching on/off. Am I doing something wrong or problem with transformer? Doorbell works when wired through heating CB. Cheers
is the Byron mechanical doorbell chime works with your configuration?
Can you confirm the wiring, it looks like you use three terminals on the bell push, thanks.
No I used 4 terminals 2 from the transformer and 2 from the doorbell
HI, if the exting doorbell has already a transformer *V built in, is it necessary to add another one?
No you by pass the standard transformer as it's only 8v but you have to use the ring transformer at 15v.
@@georgeyporgey9661 got it, thanks Georgey!
Hi thanks for this great info. Just one thing, how comes you have two twin and earth in the bottom of the transformer?
Had the transformer on the ring with the twin socket next to it but now I've been renovating my home and I've put the ring transformer in my new consumer unit.
Am I right in assuming the bypass kit is not required if I’m using the Byron?
You don't need to use it if you want the byron door to chime aswell also you need to disconnect the 230v supply to the 8v transformer when using the ring transformer.
Georgey Porgey I’ve done it. All fitted and working. The issue I’m having is the doorbell striker vibrates slightly making a humming noise and also causing the transformer to heat up. Has anyone else had this issue?
Are you using the pro power kit?
I'm using the transformer from the ring pro kit.
Georgey Porgey thanks for the reply! My pro came with a ‘pro power kit 2’ which they ask to be connected between transformer and doorbell.
I’m about to connect mine similar to yours using same chime and the provided transformer. Yours still working well? And would still recommend this method? I’ve got the same doorbell, was told the pro power kit would limit the voltage across the chime / solenoid when the switch isn’t pressed preventing any humming.
@@George9421 still working well. Got anit of humming but I will sort it as I'm refurbishing the house.
Hi, good video, still working with no probs? thinking of doing this setup, just 1 question why did you still not use the bypass? Thanks
The bypass is to bypass the door ding dongle bell which I wanted to work due to if your wifi hors down how do you know if anyone is at the door.
@@georgeyporgey9661 ok thanks for the reply, yours still running with no probs? thanks again
@@CrIMiN8l still working fine.
@@georgeyporgey9661 I have seen on their website that bypass connector works as circuit
which protect the ring bell if there is any fluctuation, basically its protection device for ring door bell. i thought i share this with you guys.
Hi again, sorry to be a pain but could you confirm the connections on the Byron doorbell, the top connection looks free, although the description says transformer goes to 1.
Ok the supply from the transformer 1st cable to the lower left and 2nd cable to the lower right.
Then 1st cable from the doorbell to the top left and 2nd cable from the doorbell goes with the cables at the bottom right connection
Thanks for the info, done and working.
@@steverussell7383 so happy & glad to help.
Just curious why have you gone through that hassle when you have the ring chime box plugged in already? Is it so you can power the bell? If so, is there a way to silent the default chime box so only the ring chime sounds?
A T I think the chime box is so you can connect to wi fi
Thanks for the video, I'm trying to do the same setup. Could you please simply tell us which terminal numbers on the Byron doorbell I should connect to the ring transformer, and which terminal number should be connected to the ring pro doorbell?
I tried 2+3 to the transformer, and 0+1 to the ring pro but it doesn't power up the doorbell
Sorry mate about the late reply new update on the phone and had no notifications. I connected 1 & 3 on the ring transformer.
@@georgeyporgey9661 thanks. I spotted in one of your other replies someone had said 1 and 3.
I tried it on ring 24v terminals and it worked for a few hours, when I came back in the morning the circuit breaker had tripped and the ring transformer had fried. The Byron still works.
I also tried using the Byron 8v supply, which did power up the Ring but after ringing once the Byron would permanently buzz.
I've just received a replacement from Ring. Have ordered a Friedland chime which apparently will work on 16v. Will wait for that before attempting to connect it all up again.
The 776 unit actually outputs at around 15 to 16 volts so you could have taken your 230v mains supply direct to your chime unit. And doing away with the ring transformer 😊
Hello could you elaborate a little more on this please. Thanks
@@kousafyhan4117 what would you like to know
@@dougiemillar8597 does the pro require more volts? Reason I ask is because I have a ring doorbell 2 which needs 8-24v, the Byron 776 has this at 8v pre installed but I’m afraid I may need just abit more? I wouldn’t want lose some functions like love video, night mode or anything else at all, plus a lot of people saying it has a humming noise? Sorry also I do want to keep the classic British ding dong
@@kousafyhan4117 so the ring equipment does require upto 24v a standard doorbell setup in Britain is anything from 8v to 16v.
The Byron kit says 8v but when you actually test it it's output is around 15/16 which is enough to work the full set up.
@@dougiemillar8597 that’s fantastic. I have spoken now to Ring three separate times and I can honestly say they have no idea, I say that because of the information given is always different and even against the previous advisor spoken to. The most I have been told is that my current Bell Deta 3500 has an output around 6V. I am hoping to install the Byron 776 and wishing the transformer will be enough for my Ring Doorbell 2. Again I’m very great full for your advice.
Hi, I have moved into new built home and has the same transformer inside the bell box, can I just replace that transformer with the one provided by ring within the same bell box instead of installing new one as I am not Pro like you :)
Which ring doorbell do you have? Just to make sure as you can use the existing transformer in the bell with ring doorbell 1 & 2.
Georgey Porgey thanks a lot for the reply :) I have ring doorbell Pro, I have the same 8V transformer in the bell box where blue and brown cable go and there is earth cable as well.
Then you have to use the ring transformer as the standard one is only 8v and your ring pro needs minimum of 16v.
Georgey Porgey So I can remove the 8V transformer from the bell box and plug my Ring transformer in it right ?
@@hemantrathod6235 the ring transformer wont fit in the byron bell box you need to get a separate unit for the transformer. Screwfix sell a wylex 3 module ip65 enclosure. They are £11.01.
Hi George
Thank you for this post.
I have an unbranded 8V (Ac) chime connected to my fuseboard and the chime goes to my Pro. I put the Ring transformer in to the fuse board and placed the bell cable in 1 and 4. I tried it in 1 and 2 and it was not enough to power the doorbell video. Do you think I should use 1 and 3?
I have set the chime to mechanical in the app. All appears well and everything appears to be working as it should.
Ring said today that I'm likely to burn out the chime as the power rating does not appear enough. They have a ring Pro installation kit on route to me. I am not sure how it will help. Do you know?
Is my set up OK?
Try it 1 to 3 then see what voltage you get.
@@georgeyporgey9661 I don't have any sort of reader. I am not an electrician 😊
What's the worse that could happen with my set up?
Doorbell powers and chimes. But board says 8v and not 8 - 16v
So does the doorbell work & chimes up?.
What's the MV on your app says?
@@georgeyporgey9661 it does power the video and chime
HI Great video , i Guess my ac adapter which was going to power my pro door bell work , the ac adapeter is 18 volts with the special loops to hook on the back thanks
I think the 24v transformer us a bit much for the doorbell due to the voltage fluctuation we get in the UK. 18v in my eyes is perfect. I'm glad my video has helped you. Thanks for viewing my video.
The reason you were getting 27v AC from the Ring transformer was most likely because you were measuring the no-load voltage. The voltage should drop once a load (the camera) is attached and drawing current...
But you can't connect it to your Byron doorbell as it will burn it out.
Surely the byron if the byron transformer is 8v. It only wants 8v. By what you have done is now putting 15v to 16v into it.
@@alexgull271 yes I have put 15v/16v via the solenoid because when ringing the door bell I want to hear the chime just in case I loose wifi or internet connection.
The transformer requires 240v into the transformer and 8v out but ring door bell requires minimum 16v.
@@georgeyporgey9661 I see what your saying. But it means your putting 16v into the byron solenoid which is rated a 8v
Can you advise on which wires we need to purchase please?
I used alarm cable or you can use 2 core bell wire.
@@georgeyporgey9661 thank you.
@@lordship6457 You must use at least 0.50 mm bell wire for a 24V load.
@@dandare2586 Thank you. Would this be ok ? www.screwfix.com/p/nexans-bell-wire-2-core-50m-white/451fk
Hello Gerogey are you still reading comments on here? got a couple of questions if thats okay?
Sorry yeah just been busy working shifts.
@@georgeyporgey9661 that’s alright noticed you did this a while ago and sometimes people don’t come back to older posts lol I have a deta c3105 doorbell which is common and it has a built in transformer. Can’t I just wire up the ring outside to the current bell set up? Don’t understand why they sold it on its own and made it so stupidly complicated in this country to fit the damn thing.
You need to find out what's the voltage going out of the doorbell transformer.
Normally standard door bells are 8v.
The ring doorbell pro requires 16 to 24v
That's why I wired from the main distribution board to the ring transformer then across the solenoid which gives the minimum 16v supply aswell rings the chime doorbell.
connect this to here here and here isn't a useful explanation. What wires from the doorbell does to what terminal on the chime or transformer? What wires from the transformer go to what terminal on the chime?
Thanks for the video. I was hoping you could help me as I also have a uPVC porch and I am trying to figure out how to wire the doorbell. I noticed that your bell push is at the join and looks very neat. Do you mind explaining how you did the wiring? Did you just drill through at the join? Thanks
Well I drilled 1 side of the join from the inside and went straight out. The doorbell is wide enough to hide the hole and the cables. I also used the ring pro backing plate to mark the pvcu join and scored it a sharp knife. Then run the knife down the side of the join. Got a used chisel and tapped it with the hammer. Just got to drop abit if upvc silicone around it and all done.
thanks for the video its very helpful . 2 questions i havent got an existing wired doorbell and the consumer unit is some way from the front door so i now have the 776 to work with the ring pro . is it possible to provide power from a plug straight in to the ring transformer ?
secondly which wylex housing did you use for the transformer ? it looks nice and neat
found the consumer unit www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-3-module-ip65-insulated-enclosure-with-visor/74436
Yep that's the 1.
You could do but better if you could have it's own circuit on a breaker.
Hi, great vid. Just wondering how you got your mains wires from your consumer unit - did you make a hole in the consumer unit and feed the L&N through? Also, why is there two lives and two neautrals going into the transformer?
My set up at the moment is bell wire from push button to door chime. How do I incorporate the Pro into it?
Hi there.
From the main board it goes to the ring transformer. Then out the transformer on the 16v side in bell wire to the solenoid then out the solenoid with bell wire to the push button.
Hi Georgey, thanks for the reply. My door chime is powered by a 9v batter, but I believe it can be mains powdered as well using a transformer. Is there an easy way to identify which terminals ti connect to? Theres 4 terminals, 2 connect to the battery and 2 connect to the bell wire. I assume I need to introduce another bell cable into the chime from the Ring Pro transformer?
Thanks
I dont think it's going to work as the transformer will give you output 15/16v and your battery output is 9v so it will fry your bell box.
Is that not similar to how you have bypassed the transformer in your Byron? i.e. straight onto the terminals?
No because my bell unit is mains driven with a 240v input and a step down transformer to 8v but I contacted byron who make the bell and I asked them when testing these bells what voltage have you push too and they said 12v.
Hi there,
Thanks for the video. My transformer has just 2 terminals, but mains cable coming into it is t&e. What do you do with the earth conductor?
And how to you connect the other end into the consumer unit?
When say your transformer has to terminal connection so what is the voltage output for the transformer? Is it 16v or 24v?
Hi
Does you bryon door bell work at all?
I have been trying to get it to operate my mechanical door bell, so far i have failed
Yes it works everytime. You do not put a supply to the bryon door bell.
So you have connected the out going of the transformer with dermal 1 and 3 then you connect on the solenoid sides of the bell not into the transformer of the bell.
Thanks so much for posting such a great video - Just what I need. I have the same components. I tried terminal 1 & 4 but it didn't work. Unfortunately, I cannot get around your wiring. I noticed you are using x pair twisted cable. Would you be kind enough to share more details on how these need to be wired. Your help will be gratefully received. Thanks :)
I've basically used alarm cable because I never had any bell wire and alarm cable can take upto 50 volts.
What door bell brand you are using?
The answer is in the video, just need to listen carefully. don't have to use twisted pair cables. I used speakers cable. The two cables (doesn't matter how these are connected) from Ring Bell goes into 0 & 2 in Byron. And the two cables from the transformer (1 & 3) goes in to 2 & 3 in Byron (there's no specific relation there either). All works as a charm. Thanks very much for a GREAT VIDEO :)
Hi, if I just wired the Ring Pro into the Bryon bell with the built in 8v Transformer, what would happen? Would it work alongside the chime? Or do I NEED to use the provided transformer? @@georgeyporgey9661
@@JoshuaThomasPowell You need to wire straight in the ring transformer only. Do not wire up the 8v transformer.
@@JoshuaThomasPowell the ring pro requires minimum 16 to 24v so 8v is under power the doorbell and burn out.
Great info. Exactly what I needed thanks- it would be great to know the terminals used on the solenoid as this is still a little unclear in the video- but at least we can see how to do it- the Ring info is so poor and lacking details.
Hi, great video! Did you bypass the Byron 776 chime? Or does this operate as normal?
No still works still ding dongs but just don't put the mains supply to it.
Thanks for the reply :)
This doesn't work. I had exactly the same setup. The bell functioned once then wouldn't work again, So I'm guessing the solenoid is new blown (maybe). I did connect to the number 3 power slot. Its a real pain as my chime device constantly goes offline and I'd rather it be connected to my traditional doorbell.
The 27v you found between 1 and 4 is no load voltage. Connect it and recheck ;)
Thanks for the video, it's really helpful.
I'm looking to do the same, but without the Ring chime.
Does the live camera function work as I've read this would require more load?
Have you had any issues with your set up or does this still work?
Live works fine put its down to your internet connection
Great to know, thanks for your prompt reply👍
Done the same as the video and the chime has been making a buzzing sound. 😢
@@Abc_Heating sorry for delay yes it will buzz because the voltage is slightly higher than there tested voltage.
I know they are supposed to be 8v but I asked byron and they push the test voltage to 12v.
So yes you will get buzzing as mine does aswell.
@@georgeyporgey9661 I've managed to sort it out, thanks for the reply.
I will do a video very soon to help people, I'll also link it and credit it to you as you were the 1st person to do this. So thank you very much.
Have you used the 'Wylex 3-Module IP65 Insulated Enclosure With Visor' ? Are there any other brands of enclosure you'd recommend for the Ring transformer please? I would ideally like something a little smaller.
Shame there isn't a mechanical door chime enclosure (available in the UK) that could accommodate the Ring transformer.
Because the transformer is big anyway and deep it's hard to find anything smaller.
Thanks for the reply. I have ordered a Byron 776 this evening.
I am going to visit my local CEF tomorrow to check whether the Proteus 2 Way Insulated IP20 Enclosure would be deep enough for the Ring transformer. www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/45765-1-or-2-module-insulated-ip20-enclosure
The Proteus enclosure worked.
Thanks again for sharing how to use a mechanical door chime with the Ring Doorbell Pro.
Keep proving it but I will never be convinced.
Why did you give up being an electricain
Got made redundant and went into selling supplements.
Seriously, you have to do all this shit that the average person wouldn’t attempt, just to connect a constant supply to this ring doorbell🤪🤔🥴.
If you used to be an electrician , you shouldn’t be endorsing this method. Not going to go into the technicalities but would not recommend this to anyone.
scimg how would you go about installing this? It’s all confusing now. I want to keep my old chime instead of having to use Ring chime.
Wow aweful product..... New doorbell Chime is buzzing and humming like hell. Followed everything. The ring don't even come on.