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hi Gregory i have a Byron chime and just bought the ring hard wired (not the pro) model. I can make the ring door bell work but would also like the byron chime to work in side the house! id like to know where does the return cable from the ring door bell go to my byron to make it chime as well as providing power to the ring doorbell. I have the recomended Pen transformer very similar to the ring transformer ?? your help will be appreciated !

Thank you for the fantastic explanation Greogery. I have got a question please, I have got a doorbell that requires 8 to 24V and I have the Byron 776, I am wondering if there is a way to bypass the chime and use the 8 V only to feed the doorbell?

I found this video while trying to solve the exact problem above. I want to explain the issues I encountered. I bought a Ring Pro 2 unit. I followed your video and instructions and can safely say it will not work. I used 2 different transformers, the 24volt supplied in the box and a bell transformer with 8v, 12v and 24v. The voltage out from the transformer at 12 volts (terminals 1 and 3) registered 16 volts on the voltmeter. However when wired as you explained the voltage dropped. The ring doorbell functioned, be it a bit slowly, and the Byron 776 solenoid hummed and buzzed and the striker acted erratically and produced a smell. A ding followed 10 seconds later by a dong and the striker shaking. I then tried ports 1 and 2 (12 volts)...no power to camera and no ding dong and finally ports 1 and 4 (24 volts) no sound from bell and camera powered up and acted as normal but no sound from the Byron. It is obvious to me therefore that the Ring Pro 2 is not compatible with a normal mechanical door chime. I cannot vouch for any other model of doorbell from Ring, but to any person thinking of connecting a Pro 2, dont waste your time. Thanks for the video though. Can you confirm the exact model of doorbell from Ring you installed Georgey?

Great video. Be struggling for months with this on ring gen 2 cant get mains voltage. I will try 15v but can you give more detail on which cables are connected on doorbell for transformer please

Hi your video is very helpful but can I ask you have two white cables coming into your chime where does the other one go to ? Kind Regards

Why do you bother to connect the mechanical chime anyway? just from the Ring transformer directly to the doorbell itself.

connect this to here here and here isn't a useful explanation. What wires from the doorbell does to what terminal on the chime or transformer? What wires from the transformer go to what terminal on the chime?

Any idea if the Byron bell will still work if the Ring loses interest condition?

Hi , are you able show me a wiring diagram ?

Tried all of this as shown and the indoor chime still did not work. The ring bell works fine. When I reset the bell the indoor chime seems to bell once but that's it. Please help.

Wow aweful product..... New doorbell Chime is buzzing and humming like hell. Followed everything. The ring don't even come on.

is the Byron mechanical doorbell chime works with your configuration?

Hi wondering if you can help?

Hello Gerogey are you still reading comments on here? got a couple of questions if thats okay?

A Massive thanks for your help , I have a question : I bought Lorex doorbell with 16V~24V and one Chime box kit. and My dorbell is Byron 776 with 8 Volt . Do I need to install Chimer kit ? Do I need to unplug the Byron transformer and replace it with this kind of transformer ? In the manual they ask to connect the cble to the Front and Trans pin ? but what I have are 0,1,2 and 3 which one Is Trans and Front ? very thanks.

Hi can you explain why your using 2 cables per terminal? Even the Live and Neutral cables, it looks like you have 2 going into the transformer. It also looks like you have 3 wires connecting to terminal 1 and 3 wires connected to terminal 3. This can also be seen on the terminals to your door bell. Obviously your not using bell wire, but surely you just need a single wire per terminal.

Hi George Thank you for this post. I have an unbranded 8V (Ac) chime connected to my fuseboard and the chime goes to my Pro. I put the Ring transformer in to the fuse board and placed the bell cable in 1 and 4. I tried it in 1 and 2 and it was not enough to power the doorbell video. Do you think I should use 1 and 3? I have set the chime to mechanical in the app. All appears well and everything appears to be working as it should. Ring said today that I'm likely to burn out the chime as the power rating does not appear enough. They have a ring Pro installation kit on route to me. I am not sure how it will help. Do you know? Is my set up OK?

Great info. Exactly what I needed thanks- it would be great to know the terminals used on the solenoid as this is still a little unclear in the video- but at least we can see how to do it- the Ring info is so poor and lacking details.

Just curious why have you gone through that hassle when you have the ring chime box plugged in already? Is it so you can power the bell? If so, is there a way to silent the default chime box so only the ring chime sounds?

Thanks for that get around but... why should we do this Ring should cover all market voltages it’s just not good enough.

Used your video to wire up a with battery doorbell. Anyone out there I have mine on terminal 1 and 4 and used a BG transformer from Screwfix. Thank you for the video mate

How do wire it up if you don't have existing doorbell... Please can anyone clarify...

Clever poles holding the powerlines higher

The 776 unit actually outputs at around 15 to 16 volts so you could have taken your 230v mains supply direct to your chime unit. And doing away with the ring transformer 😊

How is your input wired in? Have wired mine through a CB to N and it trips RCD for sockets. If I wire it through another CB (central heating) in series the boiler keeps switching on/off. Am I doing something wrong or problem with transformer? Doorbell works when wired through heating CB. Cheers

Hi. I can confirm that this method does work, however, it means that the solenoid is perpetually energised. If you touch the solenoid casing you can feel it vibrating. This means that the solenoid is burning power needlessly and putting unnecessary stress on the transformer. A much better method is to use the "DOORBELL BYPASS KIT" module in "Pro Adaptor Kit" mode by using the terminal on the other side of the module which is covered by the "DOORBELL BYPASS KIT..." label. You can then follow Ring's wiring diagram. This method is described at community.ring.com/t5/Video-Doorbells/Wiring-of-Ring-Video-Doorbell-Pro-with-Existing-Chime-in-UK/m-p/27138/highlight/true#M9107

I previously used this video to wire a Friedland Facet 2 which was about 20 years old. When I moved house, I took the Ring Pro with me but needed a new chime. I originally bought a Honeywell DW313S which was on the Ring list of compatible devices, but after hours of struggling I contacted their support only to be told it was not compatible -- a 'typo' on their website apparently :-( So, I bought a Byron 776 and removed the transformer just to keep things as simple as possible (although it was entirely unnecessary). I wired it identically to how Georgey Porgey did, but I think the way he's described doing it in some of the comments below is inaccurate. It goes like this: 0 = Ring Pro (top left) 1 = unused (top right) 2 = Ring Pro / Transformer (bottom right) 3 = Transformer (bottom left) Also, he use 1 and 3 on the transformer, but I stuck with 1 and 4 as recommended by Ring and it's fine. Thanks Georgey Porgey, couldn't have done it without you (both times)!

The 27v you found between 1 and 4 is no load voltage. Connect it and recheck ;)

Hi thanks for this great info. Just one thing, how comes you have two twin and earth in the bottom of the transformer?

Are you using the pro power kit?

Hi, thanks for the video but I'm still struggling to get the Doorbell Pro to ring my old mechanical doorbell. The doorbell is a Friedland Type 6 (this type doesn't have its own transformer). So I've taken the 1st and 3rd connections off the Ring transformer as you suggested. The Friedland has 4 terminals labelled 0, 1R, 2F and 3T. I think the doorbell solenoid is across terminals 0 and 3 (here's a link to a wiring diagram that I found: www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/Friedland/107.pdf). Can you suggest which wires I should connect to which terminals?

Seriously, you have to do all this shit that the average person wouldn’t attempt, just to connect a constant supply to this ring doorbell🤪🤔🥴.

Hi, good video, still working with no probs? thinking of doing this setup, just 1 question why did you still not use the bypass? Thanks

HI, if the exting doorbell has already a transformer *V built in, is it necessary to add another one?

Keep proving it but I will never be convinced.

For those who can't wire the transformer themselves or call in an electrician, just buy this product to do away with all that. www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DFZDDPF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_MLPHBbDRGQ9K2.

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Thanks for the video, it's really helpful. I'm looking to do the same, but without the Ring chime. Does the live camera function work as I've read this would require more load? Have you had any issues with your set up or does this still work?

Hi, great vid. Just wondering how you got your mains wires from your consumer unit - did you make a hole in the consumer unit and feed the L&N through? Also, why is there two lives and two neautrals going into the transformer? My set up at the moment is bell wire from push button to door chime. How do I incorporate the Pro into it?

This doesn't work. I had exactly the same setup. The bell functioned once then wouldn't work again, So I'm guessing the solenoid is new blown (maybe). I did connect to the number 3 power slot. Its a real pain as my chime device constantly goes offline and I'd rather it be connected to my traditional doorbell.

Just an update. I followed the instructions and was having problems with my transformer overheating. What I did was request a Pro Powerkit V2 from Ring. I installed this inside the Byron 776 across both terminals on the left hand side. I’m using the Ring Pro with the Byron 776 built in transformer and it’s working fine. Voltage is reported as good with 4046mv, well within specs. The bypass kit supplied with your Ring pro can actually be used by removing the sticker that is over it. Peel back the sticker and you’ll see terminals. You need to attach wires to the connections and in turn connect those to your Byron doorbell. So to recap the Ring Pro will work perfectly fine with your Byron 776 built in transformer!

Am I right in assuming the bypass kit is not required if I’m using the Byron?

Hi, I have moved into new built home and has the same transformer inside the bell box, can I just replace that transformer with the one provided by ring within the same bell box instead of installing new one as I am not Pro like you :)

Thanks for the video, I'm trying to do the same setup. Could you please simply tell us which terminal numbers on the Byron doorbell I should connect to the ring transformer, and which terminal number should be connected to the ring pro doorbell? I tried 2+3 to the transformer, and 0+1 to the ring pro but it doesn't power up the doorbell

Why did you give up being an electricain

Can you advise on which wires we need to purchase please?

Hi there, Thanks for the video. My transformer has just 2 terminals, but mains cable coming into it is t&e. What do you do with the earth conductor? And how to you connect the other end into the consumer unit?

your wiring is shitful, thank god you gave up being a sparky

The reason you were getting 27v AC from the Ring transformer was most likely because you were measuring the no-load voltage. The voltage should drop once a load (the camera) is attached and drawing current...

If you used to be an electrician , you shouldn’t be endorsing this method. Not going to go into the technicalities but would not recommend this to anyone.