As a BMW master tech of many years that’s the best explanation I’ve heard of fly by wire systems. One suggestion, use voltage drops rather than resistance measurement as even if you only have one strand of wire hanging on you will still have continuity.
Thanks legend. I was stuck in limp mode 290kms away from nowhere. Checked connector to the throttle body and after reconnecting the bike roared back to life and saved me arranging transport back to the nearest dealer / mechanic shop. Please keep on educating me and others that are mechanically challenged.
Thanks for this informative video. I had "limp mode" engaged on my '14 Limited twice, necessitating it being recovered from France to my dealership in England. The recovery driver helpfully turned the ignition on to stop the alarm sounding all the time, so when they got it in the shop, it had a dead battery. New battery - ran fine, no codes, no problem. A month later, riding up a French highway, 80mph, cruise and stereo on .... bleeeeeurgh. Nothing. Would only just idle, such that I couldn't engage second gear. Another recovery, this time to the channel, then another van home. Got collected by the dealer, and it ran fine. No codes returned by the ECM. They checked wiring, voltages, throttle body, everything. They were just about to ring me to come collect it, when a tech fired it up, and it lit the little yellow "helicopter", and wouldn't respond to the throttle. Instantly plugged it into the computer ... ECM failure. That's why there were no codes - it forgot them when it was powered off. New ECM, and it's been fault free for 11 thousand more miles.
Hello ! Je me permet de vous contacter car je rencontre le même problème. Mon concessionnaire à remplacé le corps de papillon, et l'ECM mais toujours le problème. Avez vous trouvez une solution ? Merci
Head of Quality at HD must be your best friend, they will keep you in work for life. The instructional videos have great technician training value. Thanks Kevin.
Never have experienced a limp mode and to be honest never heard of it before. I've been riding for 50 years and of course I know everything about Motorcycles, LOL kidding of course. Understanding the fly by wire is fuel for changing my driving habits, no more flipping the throttle. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You always do such an outstanding job explaining everything so it’s easy to understand. I found this to be very useful information and a great subject of interest. Thanks Kevin for taking the time to make these videos.
Great vid. I checked and cleaned contacts on intake and ecm after my 2010 RK went into limp mode. The ecm connections where bad. Dielectric greased before I re-attached and bike is now good.
Funny, I sold my 2014 Streetglide Special this Fall 2020 and bought a 2009 Heritage Classic, one owner 12500 miles. Handlebar cable operated fuel injection, ecm, & no abs, Stock engine etc , liking it so much. Any Good Bike Shop can fix it if needed without going to a Harley dealership. Just so tired of all the Electronic Bull-Crap on these newer Harley's & only Harley having the information to repair them, it's like your a prisoner with your Bike to them. It takes the enjoyment out of owning & riding one.. Good video Dude.
I love carburetors. Lol. Unfortunately I do have a fuel injected bike as well (learning the joys of power vision ), so as always I enjoy the new knowledge shared 🤙
Great information as usual, diagnosis intermittent electrical conditions are the most difficult things to deal with these days. using a voltage drop test will show circuit integrity more accurately than an ohm meter will especially in the instance of a partial broken wire.
In your twin cam tear down series episode 1, when Alan starts talking about his experiences dealing with a dealership tech, he says, “it’s hard to get a dealership tech to listen to your problems/concerns/issues.” I have heard the main reasons as to why that is is when it comes to dealership techs wrenching, they want to do recall work and custom “add ons” that the customer wants when they purchased their bike. The dealership itself (and H-D co. to an extent) doesn’t make money on warranty work, repair work, or anything aftermarket outside of Screaming Eagle. John Maxwell, formerly of Chattahoochee Harley Davidson, now owner of “Maxwell’s Garage” talks about this very thing in a video.
Not sure if limp mode is my problem but it sure sounds like it. GREAT video tutorial dude!! Will be saving this one. Beginning to end and step by step is the way to go...and no stupid tangents like some guys do! Will be using this site going forward!
Hi Kevin I get these videos a little late but they are worth the wait very good information I try to get everyone of your videos little tricks you provide are awesome keep doing what you are doing and watch you later thanks again
Lionel here in central California Excellent explanation of how the fly by wire works, that an idiot like me can understand. Also the limp mode explained very well. Keep up the good work and Thanks.
I've had the limp mode issue and it turned out to be the connection at the throttle body. Took the connector loose, cleaned all with CRC electrical cleaner, then sealed it with dielectric grease around the connector. That was 4 years ago, still good. Glad I don't "blip" my throttle!
Another area to look for as with my 2010 Street glide is where the wiring harness meets the neck. All the turning back and forth broke a wire within the harness right where the big wire tie is. You need to cut it back both ways and add a piece of wire that will withstand all the back and forth movement. Once fix all the codes and limp mode went away. This was a very instructional video once I was able to understand “correlation”
Ive been accused of imitating William Shatner. Making complex topics easy to understand can be a challenge. Often, I have to quickly search for words in my head before I open my mouth. My brain works faster than my mouth so i have to slow it down a bit sometimes.
Excellent, if I may you should have taken pictures or shot videos of the different components and place of where to look for connectors. But again very detailed as usual.
Mr. Baxter another enjoyable video--wish you were closer, but we have a Jr. version of you just west of Wichita in Maize,Ks.-Dustin Werner,Werners House of H P, just did some upgrades to my 13 103 and in visiting with him he does the same steps in his builds as I've seen in yours. Thanks again sir, appreciate your generous givings.
Sounds like you've been down this road way too many times! One Great thing for you and your guys time and materials, I think I will go out in the garage and lube my throttle cables on my old Road King with a carb on it thanks for the video as all ways the best on the internet stay safe
Thank you. I am a bit worried now about my friends FLH. They were riding across a small bridge and just as they were starting up hill it went into limp mode. They were in a scary situation with gravel trucks passing and no shoulder. They had the bike towed and the dealer found nothing wrong. Its been fine for a couple seasons now. After putting a 160,000 mi on my 92 FLH I have been real hesitant to buy another Harley because of this issue and another similar with the fuel injection. I witnessed someone having to unplug and re plug something under his tank to get it to start. I am thinking all this technology may not be so good.
Kevin, I have a 2010 Ultra Classic CVO. I found myself in limp mode when I briefly stopped on the side of the freeway. I shut off the bike, and through a combination of turning the ignition on and off and turning the kill switch on and off as I was attempting to continue my trip, the bike wouldn't go much over 1,000 rpm and 15 mph. I stopped again and let the bike sit for about 20 minutes or so. After that, it started normally and has run perfectly for thousands of miles ever since. And it has never happened again. I have a video of this from a helmet mounted camera and I can pretty much see exactly what I did to enable the limp mode but have not tried to recreate this situation for fear that it will not allow me to recover normal operation of the bike.
Great tutorial. What are the ADVANTAGES to the fly by wire system? Was it required because of all of the other electronic controls of running the engine? I'm really questioning the change to fly by wire. The cable system was working very well for decades. After riding for 45 years on numerous bikes never a problem. During my first week of owning a fbw bike I had issues (5V reference voltage out of tolerance). Given all the vibration, twisting and changes in operating conditions the fbw system would be ripe for problems. My issue turned out to be a connector that wasn't fully seated. Of course the connector was buried somewhere and getting to it was time consuming. Fortunately the bike was still under warranty. While there was no out of pocket money I did lose riding time and the inconvenience of trips back and forth to the dealer.
The tutorial is very helpful, but apologizing for HD's choice in using a LIMP mode to communicate a problem is ridiculous. This throttle system is a trouble prone situation and I would really prefer to junk it and go back to the old cable based throttle. Intermittent troubles keep causing my motorcycle to cut out and sometimes this happens at very bad times. This is not a pleasure bike - it is my primary mode of transportation and needs to be RELIABLE. My 1999 Wide Glide NEVER has so much trouble and it has 3 times the mileage.
I don't know if this will help or not but I use non conductive electrical grease on all electrical connections. I prefer fargalean or more recently versa seal both made by Hubbell . I am a retired Master industrial Electrician. Is that a real Pan Head or a replica? Mike from Maryland
I learned a lot watching this. I learned I want a harley with throttle cables. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Fly by wire is expensive unnecessary crap. That being said I love fuel injection it is superior to carburation but fly by wire is not necessary.
Hey Kevin I installed a fuel motor 110 outlaw big bore kit with a 58mm hpi throttle body now I have an intermittent code 1510(limp mode) never had a problem before the 58mm tb any idea,'s? Thanks bike only had 12 thousand miles 2014 street glide
Thank You Kevin! Your One Hell Of A Tech!!! Every Thing You Say Is Straight To The Point. With Out All The Bull Shit Involved.Thank You For Being A True Tech .You Do A Dam Good Job With Your Teaching.And Your Hands On Showing!!! Thank You!!! And God Bless You!!!
Any thoughts on CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner to deal with the Direct Injection carbon build up that basically every vehicle manufacturer is going to due to regulations? Now that Harley has jumped on the band wagon with the M8. I would rather not put an oil catch can on my motorcycle.
What a wiring mess! There's something to be said about an old fashioned carburetor with a cable to the handle grip. Simple and well proven. Why create such a fantastic electronic mess? My Heritage has fuel injection, but being an '04,' I guess keeps me free from this nightmare at least!
wow, this happened to me today! I went over a pretty good bump on the interstate that made me lose my throttle on my 17 road glide. it would respond on and off but not enough to get back on the road. luckily a fellow biker towing a trailer saw me whip over oon the shoulder and insisted he tow me to the house 8 miles away! got the bike off the trailer and it worked ok for a few seconds but would go back into the mode. I just had my neck bearings changed and wonder if that had something to do with the TGS CORRELATION ERROR???
Hi Kevin, I just did my oil change on my M8 128. noticed my oil was grainy and there was sand like residue left on the oil catch towards the end. The dimple magnetic plugs were normal will usual fuzz. Upon inspection of my K&P stainless oil filter, noticed some sandlike residue as well. It seems like my air filter failed on me and let thru atmospheric sand + I did ride thru heavy rain without my sock. There were water splatter marks and my intake / TB seems dirty. What should I do? Bike runs fine but apart from changing my air filter assembly and an oil change, should i flush the engine? Should i use a throttle body spray cleaner? Thank you Kevin!
Going thru this issue right now with my 2009 street glide CEL is throwing 2 codes 1511 and 2135 I just purchased bike last year from dealer and got the warranty
Having this issue on my 08 roadglide. I can usually have it happen if I don't let it warm up for at least 5 minutes before riding. Is there a way I can tell if its been replaced already?
Thanks Richard. Actually, same cameras and audio...just was able to upload in full HD 1080p with 192 bit audio. Often i reduce quality in the upload file for the sake of time...at full res it can take hours to upload with the poor speeds available in my small town.
Great vid. Really like it. Question off topic. I’m swapping out my cam and I would like to know what u would suggest for clean the gasket off the block?
I have a 17 Road King that experiences an rpm drop when taking off from a stop. It is just a second or 2 drop causing the bike to nose dive but then it recovers. It is awkward pulling away into a turn to have the bike bog down after moving a foot or 2. It sounds like the gear lash that was described. This is when pulling away from a stop so I thought it might be an issue with the rear cylinder not recovering correctly from the shut down. I'm going to check all the connections at the throttle body and ECM and if it continues I'll see if there is excessive lash in the throttle body gears. The bike has never gone into limp mode.
Great info Kevin. Mine took a crap a few years ago and they replaced the throttle body and it all happened after i hit a pot hole. go figure. thanks and Merry Christmas and a wonderful New Year.
Hi Kevin. I hope you can help. I have a 2017 Low Rider S (FXDLS). I’ve had extensive work done. S&S 585 cams. S&S HC pistons. Bassani 2-1 exhaust. S&S cam plate and S&S tensioners high flow oil pump, and most recently a min o’ compensator and Barnett scorpion lock up clutch. Over the last couple of weeks I’ve noticed that there is a lag in acceleration from 3rd gear upward. The bike used to to take off in any gear. Do you have any idea what could be causing this? They bike has 1800 miles and was Dyno tuned when I put the cam and HC piston. Any help greatly appreciated
I wonder how far off the volts have to be for this to be an issue. And not sure If i should be looking at throttle position sensor or twist grip sensor. I have found on both sensors that the total volts can be off, + or - by up to .04 volts.
Kevin has anyone tried different methods to solve the backlash issue? A simple, but understandably more expensive fix, would be to use a set of anti-backlash gears. We used these in some gear driven analog computers that would never pass the specs if anti-backlash gears were not used. In this application the idler gear would be an anti-backlash gear. The ones we used were two thin gears with springs between the two gears, similar to an auto clutch plate with springs.
yes. at one time brass gears were being made, etc....but again...if that binds...it's a bad thing. I think most are wisely choosing caution and keeping a reasonable amount of backlash.
Hi Kevin. Problem. I put a set of bars on my 2018 Deluxe FLDE. I used magna shield electrical extensions. Plugged all back in. Lights. Driving lights. Horn. Signals. Emergency flashers all work. Bike starts and idles but no throttle at all. All the lights on the dash gauge inc check engine blinking. Thoughts? Where to start?
When I bought my 2021 Road Glide, I left the dealership to ride the bike home. The dealership sat right on the highway. When I tried to accelerate onto the highway, I could only go about 5 mph. I pulled to the side and shut the bike off. Tried to call the dealership but couldn't get through. Tried restarting the bike and everything was fine. Called the dealer when I got home (a two hour ride) and they offered no explanation. I still have less than two hundred miles on the bike, and the problem hasn't presented itself again. I'm not feeling real comfortable about this.
sounds like you went into limp mode for sure. if that happens again, disconnect the plug from the TB and reconnect. that often will reset it and get you home.
I have a 22 RG ST and mine did it to me twice with 8k miles. After digging around come to find out one of my wires to the TB was rubbing on a sharp edge and grounding out. It’s been filed down and the wire fixed and I’m at 15k miles with no more problems.
I found your video from searching for mutt symptoms. I was wondering if you could help. I started having problems on the bike, an 08 ultra, heading home from work like it was sputtering and not getting any throttle an was for a lack of better words it would bump when I gave it throttle and it was hard to ride home. I have no idea why. It was running perfectly fine the last time I rode it. I could barely get it to move from a stop. It even did it on the highway where I couldn’t get into 5th gear without it sputtering.
Was hoping to see if Throttle control was like a 5K? potentiometer? If the Motor is a Stepper? If 2 of the pins at the Throttle Body could have 2 multimeters and see the 2 voltages at same time(half throttle would show 2.5 volts) could be checked with analog meters and verify smooth resistance changes, also test throttle control with analog meters to verify smooth changes. Also about applying voltage to motor directly to verify operation, or resistance of motor. Thanks
Question , my last rid of the season i got a bad batch of gas it pinged - knocked n stuttered bad enough i pulled over to check the oil . the level was fine then i noticed i was getting about 15 miles to the gallon when the low fuel light came on soon after getting my 2.5 gallons of gas so i stopped at a name brand gas station in a better part of town n filled the tank . I hit the starter n got a backfire not of the m 80 size but larger than the typical black cat fire cracker , hit the starter agian n it fired up n i rode off . within 2/3 miles the motor smoothed out quieted down n seemed to be back in normal running order . i came to a stop n when going to release the clutch i had a miss at about 12 r 1300 rpm n road away perfectly fine the next red light the same thing only when taking off from a dead stop does it behave like this even if not letting the clutch out or in gear i,ve got a miss just above an idle after the bad fuel ,from 1300 rpm up it runs like a dream and it idles perfect . I know you cant diagnose from my writing a question but where would you suggest i start at ? kinda sounds like the throttle by wire in your post but its a heck of a coincidence it started with the bad fuel .Any advice would be appreaciated very much . THANKS MUCH ive learned alot from all your posts !
IF I purchase a ECM on for my 2010 Limited FLHTK. Do I still have to take it to a dealership? I have replaced my crank sensor, plugs & wires, and coil pack but still will not start.
Unfortunately trying to diagnose this on my 11 Road Glide, only goes to limp mode when its hot. First occurred near Memphis on I55 on a 100 degree day, I was eight hours into a ride to Texas. Cost me $600 to trailer it home.
Kevin the problem i'm having is when i let go of the throttle the engine starts to rev upward, if i grab the throttle and gently push the throttle forward the rpms will come back to a normal Idle, then is i let go from this slight push forward, the engine revs back up.
I had this happen on the freeway where it would not want to accelerate and the next day the check engine light came on. Got six ecm codes. Any idea what could’ve happened ?????
I’m having an issue with my 17 street glide with idle it will drop to about 500rpm jump to 1200 and keep getting po505 position sensor any help greatly appreciated
I changed my bars and when it's warm out.. (over 70 degrees F) the engine light is on and cruise won't work. Limp mode engaged. Once it's cold out, it runs perfect.
If you are not learning anything on this channel...YOU are not paying attention.!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge on this subject. Great teacher.
Absolutely agree! So much vital info presented so I can understand.
As a BMW master tech of many years that’s the best explanation I’ve heard of fly by wire systems.
One suggestion, use voltage drops rather than resistance measurement as even if you only have one strand of wire hanging on you will still have continuity.
Resistance is what creates the voltage drop.
@@jonnybds3 yes but you need a load on the circuit therefore you cannot use resistance.
Thanks legend. I was stuck in limp mode 290kms away from nowhere. Checked connector to the throttle body and after reconnecting the bike roared back to life and saved me arranging transport back to the nearest dealer / mechanic shop. Please keep on educating me and others that are mechanically challenged.
Thanks for this informative video. I had "limp mode" engaged on my '14 Limited twice, necessitating it being recovered from France to my dealership in England. The recovery driver helpfully turned the ignition on to stop the alarm sounding all the time, so when they got it in the shop, it had a dead battery. New battery - ran fine, no codes, no problem. A month later, riding up a French highway, 80mph, cruise and stereo on .... bleeeeeurgh. Nothing. Would only just idle, such that I couldn't engage second gear. Another recovery, this time to the channel, then another van home. Got collected by the dealer, and it ran fine. No codes returned by the ECM. They checked wiring, voltages, throttle body, everything. They were just about to ring me to come collect it, when a tech fired it up, and it lit the little yellow "helicopter", and wouldn't respond to the throttle. Instantly plugged it into the computer ... ECM failure. That's why there were no codes - it forgot them when it was powered off. New ECM, and it's been fault free for 11 thousand more miles.
Hello ! Je me permet de vous contacter car je rencontre le même problème. Mon concessionnaire à remplacé le corps de papillon, et l'ECM mais toujours le problème. Avez vous trouvez une solution ? Merci
Head of Quality at HD must be your best friend, they will keep you in work for life. The instructional videos have great technician training value. Thanks Kevin.
Never have experienced a limp mode and to be honest never heard of it before. I've been riding for 50 years and of course I know everything about Motorcycles, LOL kidding of course. Understanding the fly by wire is fuel for changing my driving habits, no more flipping the throttle. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You always do such an outstanding job explaining everything so it’s easy to understand. I found this to be very useful information and a great subject of interest. Thanks Kevin for taking the time to make these videos.
Great vid. I checked and cleaned contacts on intake and ecm after my 2010 RK went into limp mode. The ecm connections where bad. Dielectric greased before I re-attached and bike is now good.
Funny, I sold my 2014 Streetglide Special this Fall 2020 and bought a 2009 Heritage Classic, one owner 12500 miles. Handlebar cable operated fuel injection, ecm, & no abs, Stock engine etc , liking it so much. Any Good Bike Shop can fix it if needed without going to a Harley dealership. Just so tired of all the Electronic Bull-Crap on these newer Harley's & only Harley having the information to repair them, it's like your a prisoner with your Bike to them. It takes the enjoyment out of owning & riding one.. Good video Dude.
I just went through limp mode. It was nice to see I was right, though only a little bit, and that there is a lot more to do. Thank you,
So what caused it and what did you have to replace to get on the road?
I love carburetors. Lol. Unfortunately I do have a fuel injected bike as well (learning the joys of power vision ), so as always I enjoy the new knowledge shared 🤙
Great information as usual, diagnosis intermittent electrical conditions are the most difficult things to deal with these days. using a voltage drop test will show circuit integrity more accurately than an ohm meter will especially in the instance of a partial broken wire.
Thanks for posting had this happened numis time I knew 18 road glide miss you love a carburetor
Many Thanks for tying 'it' all together - Fly by Wire has always been one of those 'dark & mystical/ areas riddled with ??????????'s. Cheers
In your twin cam tear down series episode 1, when Alan starts talking about his experiences dealing with a dealership tech, he says, “it’s hard to get a dealership tech to listen to your problems/concerns/issues.” I have heard the main reasons as to why that is is when it comes to dealership techs wrenching, they want to do recall work and custom “add ons” that the customer wants when they purchased their bike. The dealership itself (and H-D co. to an extent) doesn’t make money on warranty work, repair work, or anything aftermarket outside of Screaming Eagle.
John Maxwell, formerly of Chattahoochee Harley Davidson, now owner of “Maxwell’s Garage” talks about this very thing in a video.
Kevin, thanks for the fly-by-wire explanation.
Glad to help
Not sure if limp mode is my problem but it sure sounds like it. GREAT video tutorial dude!! Will be saving this one. Beginning to end and step by step is the way to go...and no stupid tangents like some guys do! Will be using this site going forward!
Great video Kevin, lots of good info. Thanks for taking the time to share. Cheers
Good info as always, here's to hoping I never have to deal with a limp issue. I mean limp mode!! :-)
hahaha. you and me both. Glad you enjoyed it Merry Christmas!!! Thank you!!
Hi Kevin I get these videos a little late but they are worth the wait very good information I try to get everyone of your videos little tricks you provide are awesome keep doing what you are doing and watch you later thanks again
Very knowledgeable and lots of help! Thanks!
Lionel here in central California Excellent explanation of how the fly by wire works, that an idiot like me can understand. Also the limp mode explained very well. Keep up the good work and Thanks.
I've had the limp mode issue and it turned out to be the connection at the throttle body. Took the connector loose, cleaned all with CRC electrical cleaner, then sealed it with dielectric grease around the connector. That was 4 years ago, still good. Glad I don't "blip" my throttle!
I have a 09 ultra classic , had the same issue and did the same fix, that was five years ago and 50,000 miles.
Another area to look for as with my 2010 Street glide is where the wiring harness meets the neck. All the turning back and forth broke a wire within the harness right where the big wire tie is. You need to cut it back both ways and add a piece of wire that will withstand all the back and forth movement. Once fix all the codes and limp mode went away. This was a very instructional video once I was able to understand “correlation”
Thanks for the info,, I almost didn’t make it through the whole video because of the way you talk.
Ive been accused of imitating William Shatner. Making complex topics easy to understand can be a challenge. Often, I have to quickly search for words in my head before I open my mouth. My brain works faster than my mouth so i have to slow it down a bit sometimes.
Thanks for that!! I don't know how you have the time for these videos but I'm sure glad you do. Great public service!! 👍👍
Excellent, if I may you should have taken pictures or shot videos of the different components and place of where to look for connectors. But again very detailed as usual.
Yes sir...very good point. Thank you. Merry Christmas!!! Thank you!!
Thanks Kevin for another very informative video! Nobody likes limp mode!
Awesome video great all-around knowledge
Mr. Baxter another enjoyable video--wish you were closer, but we have a Jr. version of you just west of Wichita in Maize,Ks.-Dustin Werner,Werners House of H P, just did some upgrades to my 13 103 and in visiting with him he does the same steps in his builds as I've seen in yours. Thanks again sir, appreciate your generous givings.
Dang I missed the live show 😫 but best believe ima watch the video anyways. Oh and my bike has throttle cables but who's counting 😂🤣
Great video and explaining the fly by wire issues. I have to say, you remind me of William Shatner..lol
thank you for taking the time to make these videos!
superb info! excellent job explaining how that all works.
Sounds like you've been down this road way too many times! One Great thing for you and your guys time and materials, I think I will go out in the garage and lube my throttle cables on my old Road King with a carb on it thanks for the video as all ways the best on the internet stay safe
Thank you. I am a bit worried now about my friends FLH. They were riding across a small bridge and just as they were starting up hill it went into limp mode. They were in a scary situation with gravel trucks passing and no shoulder. They had the bike towed and the dealer found nothing wrong. Its been fine for a couple seasons now.
After putting a 160,000 mi on my 92 FLH I have been real hesitant to buy another Harley because of this issue and another similar with the fuel injection. I witnessed someone having to unplug and re plug something under his tank to get it to start. I am thinking all this technology may not be so good.
Kevin, I have a 2010 Ultra Classic CVO. I found myself in limp mode when I briefly stopped on the side of the freeway. I shut off the bike, and through a combination of turning the ignition on and off and turning the kill switch on and off as I was attempting to continue my trip, the bike wouldn't go much over 1,000 rpm and 15 mph. I stopped again and let the bike sit for about 20 minutes or so. After that, it started normally and has run perfectly for thousands of miles ever since. And it has never happened again. I have a video of this from a helmet mounted camera and I can pretty much see exactly what I did to enable the limp mode but have not tried to recreate this situation for fear that it will not allow me to recover normal operation of the bike.
Not sure if you are still around but if you are, can you explain what you did to enable the limp mode?
Great tutorial. What are the ADVANTAGES to the fly by wire system? Was it required because of all of the other electronic controls of running the engine? I'm really questioning the change to fly by wire. The cable system was working very well for decades. After riding for 45 years on numerous bikes never a problem. During my first week of owning a fbw bike I had issues (5V reference voltage out of tolerance). Given all the vibration, twisting and changes in operating conditions the fbw system would be ripe for problems. My issue turned out to be a connector that wasn't fully seated. Of course the connector was buried somewhere and getting to it was time consuming. Fortunately the bike was still under warranty. While there was no out of pocket money I did lose riding time and the inconvenience of trips back and forth to the dealer.
The tutorial is very helpful, but apologizing for HD's choice in using a LIMP mode to communicate a problem is ridiculous. This throttle system is a trouble prone situation and I would really prefer to junk it and go back to the old cable based throttle. Intermittent troubles keep causing my motorcycle to cut out and sometimes this happens at very bad times. This is not a pleasure bike - it is my primary mode of transportation and needs to be RELIABLE. My 1999 Wide Glide NEVER has so much trouble and it has 3 times the mileage.
Thanks so much proposing newest Harley road glide been in limp mode three times in two months sold a bike
Well I know what I’m doing this weekend.. 😂😅 I trouble shooted a couple things but I’m I need to check my wires lol thanks for the video!!!
Now I understand it, thanks alot, good job👍🏻
Awesome explanation Thanks Kevin
Love your channel bud! This is good stuff.
Don't have those problems. Riding a 1988 Evo FLHTC with a carb. The carb was updated to a 1989 Keihin CV. Easy to reject. Runs great.
I don't know if this will help or not but I use non conductive electrical grease on all electrical connections. I prefer fargalean or more recently versa seal both made by Hubbell . I am a retired Master industrial Electrician. Is that a real Pan Head or a replica? Mike from Maryland
I learned a lot watching this. I learned I want a harley with throttle cables. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! Fly by wire is expensive unnecessary crap. That being said I love fuel injection it is superior to carburation but fly by wire is not necessary.
Could you discuss the correlation between throttle body size to cubic displacement or power in the twin cam motor?
Hey Kevin I installed a fuel motor 110 outlaw big bore kit with a 58mm hpi throttle body now I have an intermittent code 1510(limp mode) never had a problem before the 58mm tb any idea,'s? Thanks bike only had 12 thousand miles 2014 street glide
Thank You Kevin! Your One Hell Of A Tech!!! Every Thing You Say Is Straight To The Point. With Out All The Bull Shit Involved.Thank You For Being A True Tech .You Do A Dam Good Job With Your Teaching.And Your Hands On Showing!!! Thank You!!! And God Bless You!!!
Came for the tech, stayed to ogle at the panhead in the background
Any thoughts on CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner to deal with the Direct Injection carbon build up that basically every vehicle manufacturer is going to due to regulations? Now that Harley has jumped on the band wagon with the M8. I would rather not put an oil catch can on my motorcycle.
What a wiring mess! There's something to be said about an old fashioned carburetor with a cable to the handle grip.
Simple and well proven. Why create such a fantastic electronic mess?
My Heritage has fuel injection, but being an '04,' I guess keeps me free from this nightmare at least!
Superb. That was an education for me. Thank you for doing that.
wow, this happened to me today! I went over a pretty good bump on the interstate that made me lose my throttle on my 17 road glide. it would respond on and off but not enough to get back on the road. luckily a fellow biker towing a trailer saw me whip over oon the shoulder and insisted he tow me to the house 8 miles away! got the bike off the trailer and it worked ok for a few seconds but would go back into the mode. I just had my neck bearings changed and wonder if that had something to do with the TGS CORRELATION ERROR???
After seeing this video I have a 2020 heritage for sale
And I have a 2009 Heritage (cable) I'm keeping
Very informative. Thanks
Hi Kevin, I just did my oil change on my M8 128. noticed my oil was grainy and there was sand like residue left on the oil catch towards the end. The dimple magnetic plugs were normal will usual fuzz.
Upon inspection of my K&P stainless oil filter, noticed some sandlike residue as well.
It seems like my air filter failed on me and let thru atmospheric sand + I did ride thru heavy rain without my sock. There were water splatter marks and my intake / TB seems dirty.
What should I do? Bike runs fine but apart from changing my air filter assembly and an oil change, should i flush the engine? Should i use a throttle body spray cleaner?
Thank you Kevin!
Very well explained.
Nice engine in the background.
Hooah
Going thru this issue right now with my 2009 street glide CEL is throwing 2 codes 1511 and 2135 I just purchased bike last year from dealer and got the warranty
Having this issue on my 08 roadglide. I can usually have it happen if I don't let it warm up for at least 5 minutes before riding. Is there a way I can tell if its been replaced already?
Did you get a new camera? Video quality is great!
Great info too.
Thanks Richard. Actually, same cameras and audio...just was able to upload in full HD 1080p with 192 bit audio. Often i reduce quality in the upload file for the sake of time...at full res it can take hours to upload with the poor speeds available in my small town.
@@KevinBaxter well it was much appreciated
Great vid. Really like it. Question off topic. I’m swapping out my cam and I would like to know what u would suggest for clean the gasket off the block?
I have a 17 Road King that experiences an rpm drop when taking off from a stop. It is just a second or 2 drop causing the bike to nose dive but then it recovers. It is awkward pulling away into a turn to have the bike bog down after moving a foot or 2. It sounds like the gear lash that was described. This is when pulling away from a stop so I thought it might be an issue with the rear cylinder not recovering correctly from the shut down. I'm going to check all the connections at the throttle body and ECM and if it continues I'll see if there is excessive lash in the throttle body gears. The bike has never gone into limp mode.
the Harley GURU! whats the likelihood of a bad fob battery or security module causing limp mode? 2011 UC
Great info Kevin. Mine took a crap a few years ago and they replaced the throttle body and it all happened after i hit a pot hole. go figure. thanks and Merry Christmas and a wonderful New Year.
Glad they got you fixed up. Merry Christmas!!! Thank you!!
A ThunderMax took care of my throttle lag. Now very responsive. The lag was a safety issue.
Excellent explanation!
Another’s fascinating video, and another reason I’m glad I have a cabled throttle - thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Hi Kevin. I hope you can help. I have a 2017 Low Rider S (FXDLS). I’ve had extensive work done. S&S 585 cams. S&S HC pistons. Bassani 2-1 exhaust. S&S cam plate and S&S tensioners high flow oil pump, and most recently a min o’ compensator and Barnett scorpion lock up clutch. Over the last couple of weeks I’ve noticed that there is a lag in acceleration from 3rd gear upward. The bike used to to take off in any gear.
Do you have any idea what could be causing this?
They bike has 1800 miles and was Dyno tuned when I put the cam and HC piston.
Any help greatly appreciated
I wonder how far off the volts have to be for this to be an issue. And not sure If i should be looking at throttle position sensor or twist grip sensor. I have found on both sensors that the total volts can be off, + or - by up to .04 volts.
Kevin has anyone tried different methods to solve the backlash issue? A simple, but understandably more expensive fix, would be to use a set of anti-backlash gears. We used these in some gear driven analog computers that would never pass the specs if anti-backlash gears were not used. In this application the idler gear would be an anti-backlash gear. The ones we used were two thin gears with springs between the two gears, similar to an auto clutch plate with springs.
yes. at one time brass gears were being made, etc....but again...if that binds...it's a bad thing. I think most are wisely choosing caution and keeping a reasonable amount of backlash.
Hi Kevin. Problem. I put a set of bars on my 2018 Deluxe FLDE. I used magna shield electrical extensions. Plugged all back in. Lights. Driving lights. Horn. Signals. Emergency flashers all work. Bike starts and idles but no throttle at all. All the lights on the dash gauge inc check engine blinking. Thoughts? Where to start?
When I bought my 2021 Road Glide, I left the dealership to ride the bike home. The dealership sat right on the highway. When I tried to accelerate onto the highway, I could only go about 5 mph. I pulled to the side and shut the bike off. Tried to call the dealership but couldn't get through. Tried restarting the bike and everything was fine. Called the dealer when I got home (a two hour ride) and they offered no explanation. I still have less than two hundred miles on the bike, and the problem hasn't presented itself again. I'm not feeling real comfortable about this.
sounds like you went into limp mode for sure. if that happens again, disconnect the plug from the TB and reconnect. that often will reset it and get you home.
Funny you mention Road Glide. I just hit 2K miles on mine, it’s a 2021, and it’s doing this same thing.
I have a 22 RG ST and mine did it to me twice with 8k miles. After digging around come to find out one of my wires to the TB was rubbing on a sharp edge and grounding out. It’s been filed down and the wire fixed and I’m at 15k miles with no more problems.
I found your video from searching for mutt symptoms. I was wondering if you could help. I started having problems on the bike, an 08 ultra, heading home from work like it was sputtering and not getting any throttle an was for a lack of better words it would bump when I gave it throttle and it was hard to ride home. I have no idea why. It was running perfectly fine the last time I rode it. I could barely get it to move from a stop. It even did it on the highway where I couldn’t get into 5th gear without it sputtering.
very interesting discussion.
excellent information!
Thanks for watching!
Will any of these problems throw codes that can be checked in order to narrow down the issue?
Was hoping to see if Throttle control was like a 5K? potentiometer? If the Motor is a Stepper? If 2 of the pins at the Throttle Body could have 2 multimeters and see the 2 voltages at same time(half throttle would show 2.5 volts) could be checked with analog meters and verify smooth resistance changes, also test throttle control with analog meters to verify smooth changes.
Also about applying voltage to motor directly to verify operation, or resistance of motor. Thanks
Thank you
Got rid of mine 2003 now Carb ...no problems now !!
I only have throttle lag in sixth gear. Milwaukee M8
I have a 2012 triglide with miss around 2500 rpm and no trouble codes could it be a broken gear in the throttle body ?
Question , my last rid of the season i got a bad batch of gas it pinged - knocked n stuttered bad enough i pulled over to check the oil . the level was fine then i noticed i was getting about 15 miles to the gallon when the low fuel light came on soon after getting my 2.5 gallons of gas so i stopped at a name brand gas station in a better part of town n filled the tank . I hit the starter n got a backfire not of the m 80 size but larger than the typical black cat fire cracker , hit the starter agian n it fired up n i rode off . within 2/3 miles the motor smoothed out quieted down n seemed to be back in normal running order . i came to a stop n when going to release the clutch i had a miss at about 12 r 1300 rpm n road away perfectly fine the next red light the same thing only when taking off from a dead stop does it behave like this even if not letting the clutch out or in gear i,ve got a miss just above an idle after the bad fuel ,from 1300 rpm up it runs like a dream and it idles perfect . I know you cant diagnose from my writing a question but where would you suggest i start at ? kinda sounds like the throttle by wire in your post but its a heck of a coincidence it started with the bad fuel .Any advice would be appreaciated very much . THANKS MUCH ive learned alot from all your posts !
IF I purchase a ECM on for my 2010 Limited FLHTK. Do I still have to take it to a dealership? I have replaced my crank sensor, plugs & wires, and coil pack but still will not start.
Perfect!Thanks Kevin
Nice job..but for me this exactly why a kept my 96 softail evolution engine...old school but I can fix it
Unfortunately trying to diagnose this on my 11 Road Glide, only goes to limp mode when its hot. First occurred near Memphis on I55 on a 100 degree day, I was eight hours into a ride to Texas. Cost me $600 to trailer it home.
Lets get Bert Baker on here to talk performance drivetrain!
Kevin the problem i'm having is when i let go of the throttle the engine starts to rev upward, if i grab the throttle and gently push the throttle forward the rpms will come back to a normal Idle, then is i let go from this slight push forward, the engine revs back up.
Appreciate that breakdown
I had this happen on the freeway where it would not want to accelerate and the next day the check engine light came on. Got six ecm codes. Any idea what could’ve happened ?????
Great Info thank you
very good video. well explained
THANK YOU GOD BLESS!
Thanks again very informative video
Amazing video. Thank you
I’m having an issue with my 17 street glide with idle it will drop to about 500rpm jump to 1200 and keep getting po505 position sensor any help greatly appreciated
Thank you Kevin!
I changed my bars and when it's warm out.. (over 70 degrees F) the engine light is on and cruise won't work. Limp mode engaged. Once it's cold out, it runs perfect.
thank you for your time