I don’t have the benefit of that piston and handle. Mine is just a plain cover. I’m going to have to figure out a way to get underneath and push the center up so that I can perforate the liner as you did. But this is a fantastic solution. It was just what I was looking for. Thanks for posting!
@@jacobaccurso Glad to help..it works for a good long time. Eventually, you will have to retire the cover... But, many years from now. Keith 2guys how2
Good idea, just make sure not to go any farther than the bottom layer. If you burn a hole in your plastic wrap around your foam, you’ll be worse off. That foam will absorb water and it doesn’t insulate for crap then. Cheers
I am glad you like it...keep checking us out in the future for other things you might enjoy or need to know. We love any suggestions you might have or requests that we can bring to life and show everyone on this channel. Thanks, 2Guys How2..
Could you put a valve to seal up the hole and allow for future draining? Perhaps something like what is used in inflatable biats? I would be concerned about the foam insulation absorbing water too if it wasn't sealed adequately.
You could...but, the water usually comes in from the stitching on the top of the covers...then leaks down and just sits there..best to let it leak through...and not add weight to the cover. You could try to waterproof the outside seams....to keep water out...I use a Herman's waterproofer spray for boots, tents, jackets, shoes..I bought some at Walmart ..it dries clear with no yellowing color. Hope this helps. Keith 2guys how2
@@2guyshow2thefishkingz89 Thanks. I had presumed it was steam from the tub. I saw where youtuber used contact cement to attach a new piece of vinyl to the top. Thinking bacj, i think my previous cover decades ago had a hole on the interior side which must have been partly why it lasted so long over ten years before i got rid of the tub.
@@oldgoldtopgoldtop6039 I would just put a few release holes in the cover as I did. It will prolong the life of the cover...but, when the covers start to hold water , means they are getting old... it will still last for years, until it drys out and crack on exterior. Keith 2guys how2
Great solution. I noticed my cover has holes in the underside from manufacturer. But for those with covers that don't. Looks like a way to fix it for sure.
Thanks, for the comment and thanks for watching. Over time these covers all get heavy and the bottom weep holes give it a longer life and cut down on the water from outside and moisture from the underside hot steam staying trapped inside the bottom cover. Keith 2Guys How2
Great idea 💡just wondering if it will stays drained in the closed flat position or do you have to put it in the position you have it in your video ..reason being we have it at our cottage and don't use it that often just wondering if it becomes waterlogged again over time in the closed position?..hopefully it keeps draining
It will constantly drain into the tub, spa itself...withers the chemicals used to keep the hot tube, sap sanitary will sanitize the rain and snow water as well. Hope this helps. Keith 2guys how2
That's an old 1967 Harley Davidson...Italian style bike they were selling..importing them in back in the AMF Harley error ..I forgot exact model. 250 cc, I think..SS sprint model.
The lift bar goes over the top middle of the cover. You flip one side over it, then use the lift bar to raise the rest off the hot tub. I would imagine that’s why your cover is absorbing water as it drags across the water level. At least the bullfrog spa I had operated the way I explained. Never had any issues
Most times it's from the stitching or zipper areas, letting water inside cover.. It also could be steam condensing from the hot water itself and getting absorbed into the foam, inside cover. You can try to waterproof the outside of cover and see if that keeps rain, snow water out. Other option is to replace the cover. Keith 2guys how2
I heat up the tool that i have in my hand and then poke a hole in just the thin under cover layer only.. Watch the video a few times and you will see exactly what tool I am using. Be careful and take your time, use caution when heating up the metal nail set all tool...do not get burned! Hope this helps. Keith 2Guys How2
@@kochmachines Zipper being broken is not good...it will take some time for the foam to dry out from being saturated with water. Give it a few weeks and see if it is lighter..hotter weather will evaporate the water in foam faster...colder weather as it is here...will take longer for the water to evaporate. You can always use plastic or a tarp, to cover your tub.. until you get a new cover. Hope this helps. Keith 2guys how2
Yeah, the covers only last for so long. When they are too heavy, you will not like using the hot tub as much. Invest I a good cover and worry about it 10 years from mow. Keith 2guys how2
Thanks, for watching. I purchased a used thermo spa tub. This lever action top system came with it. I would just research a few brands that have a similar style. Mine doesn't say a name. I will check to see if i can get an exact name for you. Thanks! Keith 2Guys How2
No need to patch the burn holes you put in..If you do patch them..then the cover will not drain water out and get too heavy again. Thanks for watching. Keith 2Guys How2
If you have water in both undersides..then, yes, you can burn holes in both left and right undersides of the cover. Thanks, for watching! Keith 2guys How2
If water is present on both left and right undersides of cover..then, yes, burn some holes there as well. That will lighten the water load and give your top a little more life. Thanks, for watching! Keith 2Guys How2
The Thermo Spa unit in this video came with that fllip up style cover top. I uses 2 shock style piston lifters one on each sider to help make the top seem lighter, I would check online or call a few spa sales places **** even if the spa stores are not even located in your state or town. The spa store can still help you find the name, a model number and a possible supplier of the cover top system similar to the one in my video.. Hope this this helps. KEITH 2GUYS HOW2
Thanks, it works for a good few years..but, eventually, you will need to replace the cover with a new or good used cover. Fix it yourself and save that money. Keith 2guys how2
I'm not quite sure. They most likely are the covers do not need any, if the material blocks steam vapors and is sealed correctly. New they don't need holes..after years of use, the tops retain moisture. So, I burn holes in the vynil and it let's the water drain.
Cover manufacturers used to put holes in the bottom of these covers or used a mesh bottom material instead of the solid used now. they would always put one right in the center of the cover. Centered left to right and front to back. The bottom cover material has a hammock effect and all of the water would pool in the very middle. This way the water would leak out at the same time it was gathering. Putting the holes on the edge of the cover only allows it to drain when you start to open the cover which pushes all of the water to the low side. A single hole in the very center would prevent 90% or more of the water from accumulating in the cover. The hole(s) at the end get the remaining 10%. Now...why do they not do it anymore... The Styrofoam "insert" has a plastic cover or vapor barrier that prevents the water vapor from getting to the foam core and causing it to get heavy (water logged) and failing. The problem with the with the plastic vapor barrier is that none of them are truly chemical proof so the chlorine, bromine and ozone gases that come off of the water will go to work on the plastic sheeting causing it to get brittle and fail much sooner than its normal life expectancy. It is hard to win in the hot tub cover game. Holes on the edge are your best bet as long as the holes are outside of the area that seals to the top of the hot tub's lip. That would prevent most or all of the chemical gases from getting to the plastic. These holes do not decrease insulation value.
@@TheNeptune4040 I purchased a replacement cover from Caldera in 2015 and another one from them this year (2022). They still put drainage holes in theirs. But you are right, the plastic sheeting gets brittle eventually.
It's called an... All or metal punch...you can use a thing like a screw driver or piece of round metal..Heat it and burn your holes carefully. Hope this helps..! Keith 2guys how2
At least you tried...Your foam inside your cover is most likely saturated with water and will need to be replaced at some point. They get heavy and unfortunately, don't last forever...all you can do is try or keep the top coverd with thick plastic or a tarp to keep outside water from coming in...that will let you know if water is coming from outside or the steam vapor is saturating the top from inside, as it tries to evaporate. Keith 2guys how2
Wow, this video along the way was super helpful. Thanks for sharing this informative video!
I was wondering if you're interested in collaborating on a hot tub thermostat.
Glad to help. Thanks, for watching.
Keith 2guys how2
I don’t have the benefit of that piston and handle. Mine is just a plain cover. I’m going to have to figure out a way to get underneath and push the center up so that I can perforate the liner as you did. But this is a fantastic solution. It was just what I was looking for. Thanks for posting!
@@jacobaccurso Glad to help..it works for a good long time. Eventually, you will have to retire the cover...
But, many years from now.
Keith 2guys how2
Great video. I just bought a new cover, $800. I'm going to try your method next time
Good idea, just make sure not to go any farther than the bottom layer. If you burn a hole in your plastic wrap around your foam, you’ll be worse off. That foam will absorb water and it doesn’t insulate for crap then. Cheers
fantastic idea ! I used and old scrap piece of 1/2 copper pipe...
Glad to hear it works for you, too. The hot tub in the video is still working good. Thanks,
Keith 2guys how2
A soldering iron (heated and then unplugged) performs this job quite easily and quickly!
I am glad you like it...keep checking us out in the future for other things you might enjoy or need to know. We love any suggestions you might have or requests that we can bring to life and show everyone on this channel. Thanks, 2Guys How2..
Could you put a valve to seal up the hole and allow for future draining? Perhaps something like what is used in inflatable biats? I would be concerned about the foam insulation absorbing water too if it wasn't sealed adequately.
You could...but, the water usually comes in from the stitching on the top of the covers...then leaks down and just sits there..best to let it leak through...and not add weight to the cover.
You could try to waterproof the outside seams....to keep water out...I use a Herman's waterproofer spray for boots, tents, jackets, shoes..I bought some at Walmart ..it dries clear with no yellowing color.
Hope this helps.
Keith 2guys how2
@@2guyshow2thefishkingz89 Thanks. I had presumed it was steam from the tub. I saw where youtuber used contact cement to attach a new piece of vinyl to the top. Thinking bacj, i think my previous cover decades ago had a hole on the interior side which must have been partly why it lasted so long over ten years before i got rid of the tub.
@@oldgoldtopgoldtop6039 I would just put a few release holes in the cover as I did. It will prolong the life of the cover...but, when the covers start to hold water , means they are getting old... it will still last for years, until it drys out and crack on exterior.
Keith 2guys how2
Great solution. I noticed my cover has holes in the underside from manufacturer. But for those with covers that don't. Looks like a way to fix it for sure.
Thanks, for the comment and thanks for watching. Over time these covers all get heavy and the bottom weep holes give it a longer life and cut down on the water from outside and moisture from the underside hot steam staying trapped inside the bottom cover.
Keith 2Guys How2
Great idea 💡just wondering if it will stays drained in the closed flat position or do you have to put it in the position you have it in your video ..reason being we have it at our cottage and don't use it that often just wondering if it becomes waterlogged again over time in the closed position?..hopefully it keeps draining
It will constantly drain into the tub, spa itself...withers the chemicals used to keep the hot tube, sap sanitary will sanitize the rain and snow water as well.
Hope this helps.
Keith 2guys how2
Hey -- what Is that Trail Bike in the Background ? Old Harley enduro?
That's an old 1967 Harley Davidson...Italian style bike they were selling..importing them in back in the AMF Harley error ..I forgot exact model. 250 cc, I think..SS sprint model.
The lift bar goes over the top middle of the cover. You flip one side over it, then use the lift bar to raise the rest off the hot tub. I would imagine that’s why your cover is absorbing water as it drags across the water level. At least the bullfrog spa I had operated the way I explained. Never had any issues
How does the water get in there? My cover is holding water now but I believe it’s from rain getting in on the top side.
Most times it's from the stitching or zipper areas, letting water inside cover..
It also could be steam condensing from the hot water itself and getting absorbed into the foam, inside cover.
You can try to waterproof the outside of cover and see if that keeps rain, snow water out.
Other option is to replace the cover.
Keith 2guys how2
Was a great tip. Very much appreciated but why not just poke the torch nozzle into the cover?
I heat up the tool that i have in my hand and then poke a hole in just the thin under cover layer only.. Watch the video a few times and you will see exactly what tool I am using.
Be careful and take your time, use caution when heating up the metal nail set all tool...do not get burned!
Hope this helps.
Keith 2Guys How2
@@2guyshow2thefishkingz89 I did poke it thru but my foam seems to retain the water and the cover zipper broke so think it's time for new one.
@@kochmachines Zipper being broken is not good...it will take some time for the foam to dry out from being saturated with water.
Give it a few weeks and see if it is lighter..hotter weather will evaporate the water in foam faster...colder weather as it is here...will take longer for the water to evaporate.
You can always use plastic or a tarp, to cover your tub.. until you get a new cover.
Hope this helps.
Keith 2guys how2
Good idea, thx 👍
Cheers from Poland!
Glad to help.
Keith 2guys how2
I drilled some holes in mine, but I’m not really getting any water out but it’s definitely waterlogged
Yeah, the covers only last for so long. When they are too heavy, you will not like using the hot tub as much.
Invest I a good cover and worry about it 10 years from mow.
Keith 2guys how2
Love this idea ! Can I ask where you purchased the hydraulic system ? i really like how it FOLDS as opposed to flip over itself.
Thanks, for watching. I purchased a used thermo spa tub. This lever action top system came with it. I would just research a few brands that have a similar style. Mine doesn't say a name. I will check to see if i can get an exact name for you. Thanks!
Keith 2Guys How2
So, there is no need to patch the holes?
No need to patch the burn holes you put in..If you do patch them..then the cover will not drain water out and get too heavy again.
Thanks for watching.
Keith 2Guys How2
Thanks for the great idea! I never would have thought to do this. Do you not need to drain the other side of the cover too?
If you have water in both undersides..then, yes, you can burn holes in both left and right undersides of the cover. Thanks, for watching!
Keith 2guys How2
If water is present on both left and right undersides of cover..then, yes, burn some holes there as well. That will lighten the water load and give your top a little more life. Thanks, for watching!
Keith 2Guys How2
Awesome, thank you! They get so heavy after awhile
Your welcome, thank you, for watching and thanks, for the great comment. Hope this video helps you fix your heavy hot tub cover.
where did you buy the lifter that helps lift it easilly
The Thermo Spa unit in this video came with that fllip up style cover top. I uses 2 shock style piston lifters one on each sider to help make the top seem lighter, I would check online or call a few spa sales places **** even if the spa stores are not even located in your state or town. The spa store can still help you find the name, a model number and a possible supplier of the cover top system similar to the one in my video.. Hope this this helps.
KEITH 2GUYS HOW2
Very nice idea ! And Please Keep making more ideas to show others They can fix it too.
Thank you, I will
Awsome! Thanks for the tip!
Thanks, glad to help....it will make that cover last a few more years and a lot lighter to lift.
Keith 2guys how2
Damn this is genius
Thanks, it works for a good few years..but, eventually, you will need to replace the cover with a new or good used cover.
Fix it yourself and save that money.
Keith 2guys how2
Why are they not built with holes?
I'm not quite sure. They most likely are the covers do not need any, if the material blocks steam vapors and is sealed correctly. New they don't need holes..after years of use, the tops retain moisture. So, I burn holes in the vynil and it let's the water drain.
Cover manufacturers used to put holes in the bottom of these covers or used a mesh bottom material instead of the solid used now. they would always put one right in the center of the cover. Centered left to right and front to back. The bottom cover material has a hammock effect and all of the water would pool in the very middle. This way the water would leak out at the same time it was gathering. Putting the holes on the edge of the cover only allows it to drain when you start to open the cover which pushes all of the water to the low side. A single hole in the very center would prevent 90% or more of the water from accumulating in the cover. The hole(s) at the end get the remaining 10%. Now...why do they not do it anymore... The Styrofoam "insert" has a plastic cover or vapor barrier that prevents the water vapor from getting to the foam core and causing it to get heavy (water logged) and failing. The problem with the with the plastic vapor barrier is that none of them are truly chemical proof so the chlorine, bromine and ozone gases that come off of the water will go to work on the plastic sheeting causing it to get brittle and fail much sooner than its normal life expectancy. It is hard to win in the hot tub cover game. Holes on the edge are your best bet as long as the holes are outside of the area that seals to the top of the hot tub's lip. That would prevent most or all of the chemical gases from getting to the plastic. These holes do not decrease insulation value.
@@TheNeptune4040 I purchased a replacement cover from Caldera in 2015 and another one from them this year (2022). They still put drainage holes in theirs. But you are right, the plastic sheeting gets brittle eventually.
Good video, good content. Keep it up!
Thank you, very much !
Nice video Dale Earnhardt jr.
Thanks, for watching..hope this helps you for your tub cover. 2guys how2
Name of that tool you used?
It's called an... All or metal punch...you can use a thing like a screw driver or piece of round metal..Heat it and burn your holes carefully.
Hope this helps..!
Keith 2guys how2
The tool he’s referring to is called an AWL. What he has there is not an awl. It’s more of a nut driver with that diameter. An awl is pointy.
Didn’t work for me. Nothing came out.
At least you tried...Your foam inside your cover is most likely saturated with water and will need to be replaced at some point.
They get heavy and unfortunately, don't last forever...all you can do is try or keep the top coverd with thick plastic or a tarp to keep outside water from coming in...that will let you know if water is coming from outside or the steam vapor is saturating the top from inside, as it tries to evaporate.
Keith 2guys how2