Why I Stopped Taping Down My Watercolor Paper
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- Опубликовано: 7 июл 2024
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The first time I tried to paint without taping down my paper I hated it. I felt out of control and uneasy.
Then I took a workshop with watercolorist Andy Evansen. In watching him paint, I began to realize how important that first wash of your painting is.
There are some major benefits to painting this way. I talk through all of the advantages and some disadvantages of this method in this week’s video.
Keep practicing, keep pushing forward, and I'll see you next time.
-Matt
P.S. My new Watercolor Community is up and running! It’s exciting to see artists from around the world and every skill level all learning together in one place. You can take a look here. www.learntopaintwatercolor.co... 
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I occasionally use a similar technique but after thoroughly wetting the front and reverse sides of the paper I lay a evenly damp and flat cloth under the paper and on an impervious surface and then use a drier cloth to smooth the paper completely flat by motioning the smoothing cloth from the center to the edges. The paper remains flat and without the need to stretch or use tape. The artist who demonstrated this method learned it at art school in St Petersburg, Russia; I have not seen it used by anyone else. It allows wet working for an extended period.
That's really interesting. I may have to give that a try.
Fascinating!
I follow Konstantinos Sterkov and Anna Ivanova, both Russian. They wet the back of the paper, then the front and place it on the working surface and with a clean cloth take out the water of the figure they are going to paint. This gives you time to paint the first washes in a relaxed way.
Matthew can you demonstrate the method Ronald is explaining? I am still trying to understand it. I am new to watercolor and am learning about this now. Thanks Ronald for sharing.
@@jjsartjourney Here is Anna Ivanova using a dry cloth to remove the water from the center to the edges. ruclips.net/video/-hNYLq-h2Gs/видео.html
Some time ago I stopped painting with taped paper, just because I wanted my painting to extend to the edges of the paper. Like you, both sides wet down. However, the thing I do, and allows for rotating the paper so that it can flow in directions I want, is to use a lightweight, varnished board. I have a piece of 3/8 inch thick plywood that I varnished. It is waterproof and does not warp. I place this on my easel, which I keep at a very shallow angle - like you, about 10-15 degrees. As the paper is sticking to the board because of the moisture, I take the board off the easel and move it around, tilting as I want. Then, I put it back and continue to paint. Warping and buckling of 140# paper does occur; however, this can be flattened. Spray the back of the dried painting and weight it down. You can even iron it to make it flat. Good watercolor paper is 100% cotton, and it can handle a hot iron quite well. There are videos out there which show these techniques.
This video is helpful as you explain a lot of things which people sort of learn by accident, so thanks for posting!
Glad you liked the tips! Glad you liked the video.
I use a piece of acrylic and the paper sticks easily to it.
I do the same, I bought some wood pallets intended to be painted on, and I did that so that I could set a project aside to dry for the next layer, and to have the freedom to move the piece around. That's exactly what I was thinking when he mentioned it being stuck to the surface, the board solves that problem, and like you said, allows for any tilt you desire.
I hadn't considered ironing it, that's a great idea!
Don't forget that you iron on the back side of the painting. Simple, but this mistake could be made.
My teacher told me that ironing a watercolor ages the pigments by twenty years.
This has been standard watercolour practice for Russians & Ukrainians for decades upon decades.... I love painting this way HOWEVER I looooove a white border around my unframed work...
I do miss the white border!
I paint like this about 90% of the time. I have found if I want a white border, I simply mask it with masking fluid. I've done this three times now and have had really good luck with the Windsor and Newton brand fluid. You have to control your water around the edges while painting to keep from getting bleed backs but it's not much of a problem.
@@donb5264 Never thought to do this - I’ll definitely give it a try, thanks
@@donb5264 i mean i would rather use the tape at that point if just want the white border, masking fluid is An hell of a mess for the brush etc
Hi did watercolor paper tape I guess it could’ve been the quality of the paper itself but when I took it off it started ripping the sum of the paper off I’m glad that it’s on an area where the frame would cover it up. I’m thinking about not using that again then I may try on a better quality watercolor paper
I tried this today and you were so right! Skies are my nemesis and, although I'm still not at all satisfied, this gave me so much more time to correct the skies without overworking. Thank you for the encouragement
I could not agree more. I have been wetting the back of my paper and laying it down on my painting board for a few years now and just love how long I have to paint before my paint begins to dry. It truly transformed my paintings and helped me improve.
Oh, this is something I've noticed when working with this technique with cotton paper. I have some loose pre-cut sheets from pads, but I also recently acquired a giant roll of cansin heritage paper, so the pieces I cut are naturally curved. I use this "wet the paper on both sides" technique so the water will act as a glue against the board. You get more time to work on your wet-on-wet techniques and the paper doesn't fully dry to the touch because the back of it still is damp, so you still can make soft edges with your brush marks. Thank you very much for this video, as I thought I was the only one who had this sort of insight 😅
Thank you for the kind words!
Thank you Matthew! That is the way I learned here in Finland. You are the first one in youtube I noticed using that technic. The paper really sticks on the surface and the metod gives much time to paint. I usually spray lots of water on both sides and kind of roll the paper towards the surface many times . Then paper is evenly wet and I just have to be patient and wait for the paper to settle. Before I start I check that the back side of the paper is not too wet to avoid backruns on the edges of the paper.
I love your videos and your painting style which I find similar to my favorite contemporary painter Andy Evansen. I have been working with watercolor blocks for a long time and that limits my abilty to keep the paper damp for more than a couple of minutes. I see the value of wetting both sides and I am definitely going to do more of it. Thanks for sharing.
It’s great for especially landscapes and maybe initial portrait washes. For detailed wc such as botanicals and hyper realism non taping for me is more difficult. I do enjoy both methods and am able to slap a wet sheet on my glass desk but use gaterboard and tape for more detailed work. Very good suggestions.
Thank you so much for confirming what I’ve done, especially when I am traveling. I do use a board to carry my work; however, I don’t always tape it down. I also picked up a tip from another artist where he put his painting at a slight angle using a bored on top of ring binder, either 2 inch or less depending upon the angle you want.
Thank you Matthew for your video. I have not tried this technique as I'm always taping down by papers. But I will certainly give it a try. I especially liked knowing that this technique works well for the first wash to get those lights and the beautiful blending that watercolors accomplish. When my paper buckles I iron (140 lb cold press paper) on the back side and the paper returns to flat. This is of course after the painting has dries. This ironing technique can be done between layers if the paper buckles, but just make sure all the painting is dry. I use a dry iron, no steam, and a medium setting. Just a few minutes it takes to make your paper flat.
Just want to tell you how much I’m enjoying your videos!! So lucky to have this content on RUclips
Thanks for this video. Hubby & I haven't started painting yet, so there's no previous experience with how watercolor paper behaves anyway. It actually makes sense that wetting both sides evenly should reduce buckling, and adhere the paper to your paint board/surface, so we'll have to try this method. 🙂
This is helpful. I use PVC corrugated sheets as a work surface. I love it because it's lightweight and easy to cut the sizes I need, besides, it's cheap. After watching your video, I wet the back of a piece of Arches and laid it on the PVC, wet the other side, and started painting wet in wet. Wow! The best of all worlds. It gave me the freedom to turn my work and the time savings of not having to tape the paper down. I painted the sky/clouds and the background for the landscape I'm doing. I didn't have much buckling, thankfully, but I did press the paper for a quick dry. Thanks again!
Wow, thanks! I totally get the idea, it just never occurred to me, but yes, the paper drying up while I am not quite ok with the sky is adding a layer of stress I really have no need for. I will definitely try this.
Glad it was helpful!
I tried the Andy Evansen way of putting water on both sides without tape. Didn't like it for a couple of reasons. 1) I don't care much for an entire wet on wet wash. Sometime I just want the sky wet and then I dry it before doing the middle ground. I sometimes like more control over my brush doing going around objects using wet on dry. 2) I like the clean border that tape gives once done and I never like when the paint on the front goes over the edge and under the paper if there is no tape. If your not careful you can have back-runs on the borders if you don't use any tape. Yes, it holds the paper down and gives you more "working time" doing it your way, but I find just taking a spritz bottle and putting the water where I need it when I need it gives me more control without saturating the paper with water.
Sponging the surface can also remove the sizing which will make the paper over-absorbent.
Thanks so much Matthew! Wishing you and your family a very Happy and Blessed Thanksgiving!
Ok, never have thought about setting the paper up like that and I really like the idea. I will have to give this a try. Thanks for sharing the thing you like to do with watercolors.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I haven’t even begun to practice yet but I already feel I’ve learned so much from watching your videos. I will absolutely sign up for your class as soon as I am able to. Thank you!!
So glad to hear that. Best of luck to you!
Thank you for crediting Andy Evansen in the description, and congratulations on your continued RUclips success. This one was a hit!
I love how you simplify things!
I just purchased a nice big piece of flat acrylic to paint on instead of a piece of breakable glass. That way I can lay it across my work surface or even my wooden board and wet the paper on both sides and it will stick to the acrylic. The only thing lacking about not taping the paper would be the white crisp edges. I haven't tried it yet but I am about to. Thanks for a great video. I'm so happy I found you on RUclips. I needed new inspiration badly.
I watched this video three months ago and was like, I could never do that. Now I mostly work on blocks. And the last two days I've been working with loose sheets and just did not want to put the work in. I remembered this video and tried it out. Thank you! I may never tape again.
I love wetting both sides!!! It is so helpful with my paper drying too quickly, thank you.
Very clear Mathew, easy to understand, lovely slow pace, much appreciated, look forward to trying this out.
Thanks, Michelle! Glad you liked it.
Saw similar technique at a Tony Couch workshop. He uses large sponge and wets both sides of the paper. His paintings are beautiful!
Great explanation! And glad that you gave credit to Andy Evansen.
Thanks!
Slightly bending paper when wet, keeps paper flat. Great information. Thanks.
Very helpful video and comments too. I will definitely try out these techniques.
Matthew, thank you, what great ideas you have. Merry Christmas !!!
Thanks for the video!
Having watched some of your videos, I waited till 4.02 minutes, where you say the painting sticks to your surface, due to surface tension!
So you are not faced with a wrinkled surface.
I guessed that from the start, though taping the paper down is somehow also agreeable to those, who somehow get good results.
It's something one must try!
Ive always taped my paper down and have never had a problem with the paper. Its all down to every ones personal choice and how they work.
Thank you for explaining this method. I'm new to watercolours and found this information very useful.
I really could see a watercolor painting Book coming from you and will be the first to buy one. Loooking forward to more of your presentation ,thanks Matthew.
Thanks Robert, that’s so kind of you!
Very interesting, something I will have to try. Thank you for sharing.
Very new to watercolour, I have been struggling with wet on wet, I didn't know this way was a thing, thank you.
You’re welcome 😊
team no tape! Mostly because I couldn't be bothered, originally. But I also tend to work on multiple pieces at one time, and if they're loose I can move them around easier. The waffling's just not that big a deal. It's easy enough to flatten it at the end and I am always so gratified after I'm done flattening it out to see it REALLY finished.
I do this most times unless as you said I’m doing something more finicky. Although, you always can wait for the paper to dry, tape it down and work on finicky parts that aren’t at the edges, that might cause painted edges to get ripped by tape. Another work around is to use a watercolor block. A block of paper glued on most of the four sides allows me to paint up to the edges, but hole it ver6 flat. They I let it dry before removing from the block so any warping is prevented.
Thank you for sharing!
Excellent information and as a recent beginner the Evansen approach makes logical sense.....not that easy to work out yet, but working on it.
Yes, it takes some getting used to. I love it now though. Best of luck to you!
I was taught to do this, but on a piece of perspex, so that you can pick it up and angle it differently throughout the process, or tilt it as you wish!
I'm really impressed and so happy I found this video. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I will try this, I will try on a lap desk that has a squishy base, then I can tilt if I want:) I’ve seen this a couple times now but your video has convinced me!
Thank you for great information. It's an approach to try.
Thank you for sharing your insights on this! 😊 For the type of painting I do most of the time, taping is probably best, but I can see the benefit of giving this a try. 😊
You're welcome! Glad you liked it.
Thank you
thank you im in love with watercolor
You're welcome 😊
This is a useful tip. Many thanks.
I started doing this for some of my more complex landscapes when I began studying Javid Tabatabaei. It was the first I'd seen anyone do this and I had to try. First thing I noticed was yes, it keeps your paper workable far longer than just wetting the front (particularly using rough paper, imo) AND to my sometimes loose standards it didn't warp anywhere near the extent of expected. Taping / stretching paper is something so stressed, yet for me, often completely unnecessary. So that was awesome to discover. Thats something you talked about so not necessarily worth adding but about keeping the freedom of mobility when painting ; I see you have a gorgeous easel and work space, mine isn't nearly as beautiful but because I place my quarter sheets on a dry erase board to paint, I can pick up the whole board, turn it upside down, tip or tilt it - whatever. So I wouldn't want that concern to stop others from trying to paint this way. It's a lovely experience. Thanks for talking about this.
Great solution! I was thinking something like this would resolve that small "con". Thanks! 🙏🏻
A dry erase board!!! 💡 I love that idea!
@@debbiemartin9005 thanks Debbie 💛 I was starting a new painting and my other surfaces had works in progress taped down on them and i just needed a flat, impenetrable surface for very wet washes and it's just something I happened to have around. Further along in the comments there's someone who recommends glass and says it works very well. I'm curious but also chronically clumsy so..
@@morgenmachen2400 Yes!! 😃
I started using a piece of glass from a cheap picture frame as a palette for acrylic, but, also being known for dropping things/cutting myself, I loved the idea of getting the edges beveled, but had no idea where I could get that done. Now I know. 🙌🏻🤩 Using your suggestion, I have a dry erase board that I’m going to use and see how it works.
This video and the comments have been SO helpful!
I am surely going to try this! But...I am ALSO going to try getting that first wet-into-wet wash done, and before it dries, stapling it onto my porous foam boards that I now use for stretching. It worked for me to use masking fluid on already painted surfaces, so why not? I feel more secure with stretched paper because I really don't like puddling. This is the first video I've watched of yours, so I'll follow and work on some of your projects and see how they work for me. Thanks, this was helpful.
I literally had to rewind the first minute of this video because of how simple the solution to this situation (no nessassaryily a problem) is. You would think that excess water would mess with the consistency but probably not.
I wonder now what type of paper should you use to maximize your effectiveness and the benefits. 👏🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾
Awesome work my friend!
Thank you! I use 140lb Saunders Waterford.
Thank you for sharing this information on your work!🎨🥰
You are so welcome!
Very helpful tips. Thanks for sharing
Thank you! As a beginner I really enjoyed this 👍👏
I've seen videos for this method demonstrated by Studio Ghibli artists for animation backgrounds. They used a hake brush to wet down both sides of the paper. I'm going to try it as soon as I get some new watercolor brushes.
thank you!
Best advice I've heard.
Thanks for sharing. I learned a lot from the video and the conversations below.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Interesting. I've never used this technique. I've always stretched my paper with paper gum tape (fully immersed in water first), before letting it dry and therefore stretch tight as a drum. Alternatively (and most of the time) I use blocks of paper (mainly Arches). I'll give this a go. Great video.
Muchas gracias
One can have the best of both worlds without ripples and puddles by stretching taping to a board that you can pick up and or adjust angles of tilts
Happy painting!!!
I typically staple my paintings down to a piece of wood but i'm gonna try doing a first wash like this, then when that dries staple it down
I haven't seen the advantages laid out so clearly - thanks for this. Though actually you could keep the flexibility of being able to tilt and turn your painting if you wet it both sides and lay it onto a board (without the taping of course) instead of putting the wet painting onto your table...
Mathieu, why do you want to work on wet is a good question that you answered very well. But, that needs sometimes a planification to reduce stress. MERCI
Loving this technique - thanks for sharing Matthew :)
You're welcome!
Wonderful suggestion!
Thank you and greetings from Brazil!
🇧🇷
Glad you liked it!
An interesting approach. I will give it a try...
I mostly use hot press paper, watercolour washes, and then use some coloured pencil over that. I have always stretched the paper, but I do notice that this alters the texture of the paper and makes it more 'fluffy'. Not sure if this is the effect of wet w/c washes or the stretching altering the fibres. Will do some experiments.
My paintings curl and warp when I paint with my Designers Gouache, on 140lb paper.
Either if I am doing a wash on a segment of it, or paint on to dry paper.
At the end of the painting, I turn it over, and simply give the back a thin coat of colour, and it pulls the curled corners back, so when dry it's flat, especially if I flatten it under heavy books when dry.
Also the paper then is more bendy and flexible than before.
You can also still use your tape, paint it and then wet the whole page in a bathtub after you've painted it (really soak it). I also do it after I've kind of over worked a painting and don't like how it's turning out. It softens everything and has saved more paintings than I care to admit. I let it dry and then go back and sharpen edges or deepen color. This way you keep your taped frame. (Keep a paper towel close to stop the excess color run into the taped frame btw)
Thank you. I used to do this and stopped when I had so many people suggesting I tape my paper down. I'm going back, baby.
haha! do it!
Great video. Clearly communicated and makes me want to give this a try🙂
Thanks!
This is a really good video 🤓 It just popped up on my wall. I used to tape creating a hard edge like a border. I like this method. You have a very calming presence. Made me want to keep watching. Pretty good since 3 minutes my max and I want to get back painting 😜 All the best from Nova Scotia 🇨🇦
Thanks for watching and happy painting!
Wow... !!! My best friend, It's always great. We liked and enjoyed to the end. Thanks
Its helpful for students to know this possibility of not taping paper. I'm very happy to do both methods. Properly stretched paper can also be wetted and allows for extended wet-into-wet. Some of the best work can be done this way and the window for wet-in-wet can be very extended. Students can sometimes tape with decorators masking tape and that is a problem, because it doesn't stretch the paper and if anything adds to the buckling issue. I completely agree that wetting both sides does work well but there are some times when stretching the paper properly can allow for incredibly useful wet-in-wet characteristics. So I wouldn't rule either method out in principle but take decisions based on immediate circumstances and variables.
Thank you. ✨
Welcome!
Brilliant! Thank you. Could use a piece of perspex or a thick-ish sheet of plastic stuck/glued onto... virtually any smooth surface of the right size. I can't wait to give it a go! [Also, just thought of those glass cutting boards with rounded edges.]
Yes, I think any of those would work fine. Best of luck to you!
Tried it, liked it! Thank you 👍
Glad to hear it!
I'm unsure if the papers I have would stand up to a rub. I can imagine the hefty ones do, especially Archer's, but it is against my faith to cause suffering. I think I will have a play around and see what results I will have.
I really enjoyed this, thanks!
The thing I loved most about your advice was the section you make it clear that if this technique is not for you, don’t worry and just go back to the method that works best for the individual.
My biggest fear from my channel and the advice I give is that people think it is the only way and the must follow the advice I am providing. I always try to point out art is about exploring all the possibilities, trying them all out and going with the ones that make you, as the artist, happy. Art should bring joy and peace to the mind. I personally think Art is so powerful in that individuals suffering with serious mental health issues can benefit hugely from art alongside professional medical care of course. But I think the art community is equally important.
Great, points. Everyone has the method they are most comfortable with.
I’ve done a couples of watercolor paintings with this technique years ago. Time for underwash is certainly prolonged enough, but best if you’re using thicker paper like 600 g/sqm on acrylic glass. I also found spraying the water and easing it with a wet brush to be more efficient.
What is here acrilic glass? The board?
@@gizellakeseru8112 Yes, the board is made of acrylic glass
My favorite surface to put my paper on with or without tape is a dry erase board. It’s light and I even test paint colors on it. It’s also easy to maneuver and clean.
Good idea!
Great thank you
Very professional video. Keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
Great video man!
thanks!
super advise thanks
This sounds like a great approach to painting with acrylic inks. The first washes can be done, then completely dried, then the paper could be stretched before working some more. That's my theory, anyway. I'll give it a try. 😉
Thanks, Matt. One thing, I wet my paper both sides depending on the subject and approach, but as I wet it down on a sheet of glass it sticks really well and also you can pick it up and tilt it if needed to make washes flow. A sheet of perspex also works well and I guess is safer, although I had a glass guy bevel the edges so I can't cut myself.
Good idea, David. Thanks!
Glass? Try plexiglass, less arterial lacerations.
Interesting. I use dry erase board. If you've ever experimented with that - what's your opinion on how it compares to the glass? If it's significantly better, I might be able to justify the risk. I'll try most anything once!
@@alisonb3850 a dry-erase board is basically a whiteboard. A board you can use EXPO (AKA dry-erase marker) on.
@Maiesha Akhand thanks Maiesha, I didn't see the comment until this morning@@alisonb3850 it's something one might use for work or school- a light weight, non porous surface that's used with erasable marker. They come in a large variety of sizes. A teacher may have one on the wall, in place of a chalk board. Im trying to convince myself to like the gatorboard (I believe this is the brand name of the board you described with the foam core). Mine is a good size - 22"x30" but the weight (or lack of it) creates an issue for me where by I'm constantly knocking it out of position or clear off my desk because any tap seems to launch it off. Sigh.
thank you
You're welcome!
Thank you, I have tried both taping and non-taping. Prefer no tape!
Great video THANKYOU. I like to stretch paper. And use cotton rag which stays wet for ages. , I have tried other methods. But always return to stretching. Much appreciate THANKYOU
You're very welcome!
Hey Matt! I shared this with my students to have them try it out. I am anxious to hear what they think. I will let you know how it goes. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Barry. I appreciate that!
I heard about this some time ago and have just started to use it. I saturate both sides of the paper under a running tap of flowing water. I was never shown how to do it and am surprised at how little you wet the paper, at the moment I'm learning and use cartridge paper. I should also like to say I use perspex or aluminium as a board and the paper really clings to the board. I really like it as a method for laying down the first wash. I use the three primary colour method with black and white. I bought Acrylic rather than watercolour and am able to lay some very thick dense pigment when I need/want to. I appreciate it's all wrong but that's art. I'm just experimenting.
Great technique, have tried it but it takes forever to dry when you are anxious to continue with your second wash, I guess I'm to impatient, thanks, btw, Andy is a great teacher.
Yes, it does take a while to dry. I have a fan near my easel that I turn on if I’m in a hurry. Yes, Andy is a fantastic teacher.
Thank you🤩🤩🤩
You’re welcome 😊
Well, that’s something to consider and maybe I’ll give it a go.
This is so mad as my art teacher at school in the 70's always thought that the watercolourists of the day (early 1800's) probably wetted the rear of the paper they used in the day. I would account for a lot of the output for some of the painter particularly Cox. Great stuff thanks for posting.
Glad you liked it!
Awesome 👍👍👍
I was taught that the whole point of soaking the paper and taping it down is so that once it's dry, you can paint on it and the paper won't buckle. ie you stretch the paper