I didn't cover weight distributions, but let me give you a quick note here. Weight distribution mostly affects the action, and the closer to the head the weight is, the more of an energetic action. But if your lure is excessively tail heavy, it could increase the depth of your dive while sacrificeing some action. Of course, if your lure is buoyant, that will tend to decrease the depth of dive. A sinking lure or even neutral lure will dive a bit deeper. An aerodynamically shaped lure body could affect the stability of the lure but is not likely to affect the depth of dive.
Great vids Franco, I got into lure design because of them... Trying to make lures I need for trips that I can't buy... Wonder if u ever made vids discussing what makes a lure cast well and accurately - how many of us find a great lure that casts terribly😂
I make the lazy Ike the exact same as your video but I made it an inch wide with the same amount of weight. It just drags sideways on top of the water. I probably should have added more weight and calculated the required buoyant force to be slightly above neutral 😢
This video was awesome. Thanks for teaching elements that a fisherman may not think of or consider as important. I was aware of many of these elements singlely. But not aware of how they worked together/combined. Keep up the great content.
I enjoy the videos where you go through the lure design/build process but it's the Master Class videos that are the most valuable. With information like this I can evalulate and reverse engineer the commercial lures that I'm familiar with and better understand how their action is created. Thanks for that Franco!
Fantastic video! You gave me some ideas on how to make one of my projects dive, and stabilize. I'll definitely be playing with the placement of the line tie on the bill. I can't thank you enough!
The content of this is fantastic. There's a lot to unpack here but there's no added frills. Everything you said in this video has a point. I've been trying to understand large deep diving lures through trial and error but this will certainly cut that down significantly. Thanks for all you do Franco. I've also got to add, this is (in my opinion) your best video to date. The pacing is excellent and is filled with incredible knowledge. This was a fast 11 minute video for me. Keep it up!
Thank you. I think whenever I get deep into the technical aspects I tend to speed things up. I'm glad you found it fun enough to watch all the way through. Cheers!
Deep Diving has been the one that eludes me. Thank you for creating this. There is so much information here that I did not have….I tried a few times and could never get one that doesn’t blow out. I think I know why now…….Again…..Thank you…..
If you do any structure trolling you quickly learn to pick lures that will dive deep with a short amount of line out so the lure better tracks the path of the boat and still hits bottom. Most crankbait seem to have a dive curve of 3 to 5 to 1. Meaning 3 to 5' of line out for every one foot of lure running depth. I'd love to find a crankbait that has a 2 to 1 dive curve.
Excelent video as usual! I like trolling in my kayak, and your videos are helping me in making lures that suit my needs. I was looking for a lure that dived as deep as possible without having to ad any lead sinkers to the line, but also with a correct action to atract the fish. The solution it's been a deep diver swimbait. It resulted to perform just as I spected and I'm looking forward to the "trolling season" in Mallorca (June to September) for triying it. A suggestion: please could you write on the screen the equivalent on metrical system when you talk about measurements in feet or inches? It would help a lot of your fans to understand immediately what you are explaining. Thanks for all your very understandable and useful teaching!!!
Greedings from Greece! Amazing videos and craftmanship! I would love to watch a tutorial video about making polyurethane resin needle fish lure (the jack fin stylo type). Explaining how to place the weights so it performs the best. It is a very popular type of salt water lure for bluefish mostly. Keep on amazing us!
Excelent video, with a ton of technical info, which you dont get in the internet easily. Thanks. So, I understand that the more surface area the lip has, the more force against the retrive it will make and tend to dive more. What I doesnt understand is why the same applys to the surface area of the top of the lure. I would have thought that because that area is behind the line tie and lip, it could apply an inverse force, making the front of the lure rise instead of dive... Thats why I tought banana shape lures dive deeper. But according to your explanation this is the opposite way...
Great video and answered some questions I've had. I basically go sea fishing over here in the UK, would the weight in the lure, sea conditions and temperature effect the drive. I want to make top water lures, driving lures down to about 8-10 foot and lures that go even deeper. I realise the shape and weight of certain lures will sink to the bottom but what I'm trying to say would a torpedo or similar shape to really deep if trolled amongst other things. Thanking you in anticipation.
Franco are there any issues with the weight distribution on the deep diving lures you have tested. As far as placementand the amounts. Along with the bib angles and the lure shape.
OK now I want to see you make a lure that maximizes dive depth with a decent action. (how low can you go...) My buddy asked if I could make a lure that will dive 40 feet, my knee jerk response was that I didn't think it was possible. However after doing some research and poking around the internet I think it is possible just really really challenging.
@@EngineeredAngler Well we want to fish for Ling cod from a kayak. Lings are often even deeper than 40 feet, we'll likely use it in conjunction with a down-rigger but we don't want the down-rigger anywhere near the bottom. A hung rigger weight can be a safety hazard in current and the weights aren't cheap either. But mostly I just want to see if I can pull it off. With the info that you shared and some commercial designed baits as a template I think I have a shot. Even if I get one that goes 25 feet that would probably be a good start.
Hi E-A. Do you have any videos covering how to weight and distribute weight in crankbaits? I have learned a lot from your videos on making lures, especially crankbaits. However, I'm struggling to find good guidance on determining how much weight to add and how to distribute the weight to get the action I want but prevent the lure from rolling or blowing out. Any advice or refences?
My notes of all 3 crank bait master class lectures Class 1 - skinny lip causes head shake or wobble - Wide lip causes roll back and forth - If you want the most roll have the wide lip and put tie on eye as close to lip as possible without it getting totally out of balance Class 2 - He explains why moving the tie on eye closer to the lip creates more instability (moving it closer to center of drag). The closer to the lip the more erratic. The farther away (up), the more smooth and stable - Sometimes a round bodied (hydrodynamic) lure can have a tendency to porpoise depending on the tie on eye because the turbulence isn’t causing it to shake or roll Class 3 - Factors that are important for depth of dive - bib angle (closer to parallel to body/. shallow angle = deeper dive) - length of lure/flat top (longer = deeper) because it keeps lure from going completely vertical - size of bib: longer bib causes faster dive at beginning. You may need to move tie on eye down onto the bib to increase erratic action (implied from class 1). If you move it too far past the center of the area of the bib, it will become unstable - bonus from EA comment section: weight distribution mostly affects action. Weight towards front = more energetic action. Weight towards the back = less action but possibly a deeper dive. Sinking or neutral lures will go deeper than floating ones
I didn't cover weight distributions, but let me give you a quick note here. Weight distribution mostly affects the action, and the closer to the head the weight is, the more of an energetic action. But if your lure is excessively tail heavy, it could increase the depth of your dive while sacrificeing some action. Of course, if your lure is buoyant, that will tend to decrease the depth of dive. A sinking lure or even neutral lure will dive a bit deeper. An aerodynamically shaped lure body could affect the stability of the lure but is not likely to affect the depth of dive.
Great vids Franco, I got into lure design because of them... Trying to make lures I need for trips that I can't buy... Wonder if u ever made vids discussing what makes a lure cast well and accurately - how many of us find a great lure that casts terribly😂
I make the lazy Ike the exact same as your video but I made it an inch wide with the same amount of weight. It just drags sideways on top of the water. I probably should have added more weight and calculated the required buoyant force to be slightly above neutral 😢
I'll definitely be watching this video more than once. Thanks.
Great job and wonderful explanation
This video was awesome. Thanks for teaching elements that a fisherman may not think of or consider as important. I was aware of many of these elements singlely. But not aware of how they worked together/combined. Keep up the great content.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you so much for the feed back.
I enjoy the videos where you go through the lure design/build process but it's the Master Class videos that are the most valuable. With information like this I can evalulate and reverse engineer the commercial lures that I'm familiar with and better understand how their action is created. Thanks for that Franco!
Cool, that's the idea.
Fantastic video! You gave me some ideas on how to make one of my projects dive, and stabilize. I'll definitely be playing with the placement of the line tie on the bill. I can't thank you enough!
It's just so impressive that you can deliver this level of detail, without a script! off the top of your head!
Maestro indeed.👏👏
The script is in my head, Whirling around in there . Thank you for watching.😊
Awesome video, that was so much info.
Great Master Class video!
Maestro! 👏🏻
Another great educational video. Thank you
Franco, my man, you have given me so much to work with brother, thank you. Regards, Cam.
Glad to hear it!
Excellent content. Much appreciated.
Yes ! Nice one Franco :) been waiting for this.
The content of this is fantastic. There's a lot to unpack here but there's no added frills. Everything you said in this video has a point. I've been trying to understand large deep diving lures through trial and error but this will certainly cut that down significantly. Thanks for all you do Franco.
I've also got to add, this is (in my opinion) your best video to date. The pacing is excellent and is filled with incredible knowledge. This was a fast 11 minute video for me. Keep it up!
Thank you. I think whenever I get deep into the technical aspects I tend to speed things up. I'm glad you found it fun enough to watch all the way through. Cheers!
Thanks for this Franco! These crankbait master class videos have been super helpful to me.
Great to hear!
Excellent!
Deep Diving has been the one that eludes me. Thank you for creating this. There is so much information here that I did not have….I tried a few times and could never get one that doesn’t blow out. I think I know why now…….Again…..Thank you…..
Enjoyed the video and love the technical design theory. Hat looks very clean.
Much appreciated!
Thanks so much for sharing this info! It will save years of trial and error.
Thank you for the information, you’ve got great videos!! Keep it up 👍🏼
Thank you! Will do!
Amazing master class!
Thank you kindly!
Great explanation! Thanks a lot!!
Thank you so very much. As a visual learner, your presentation is precise and to the point. I may try to work a moveable bib into my next build.💡
And you know I've been taking notes. 😉
@@CincyFishDudes Hey Paul! Rats, my secret is out.
Amazing explanation brother 🔥🙏🏽
Great info. You touched on trolling. I would be interested in a video on deep diver trolling lures. Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much for this video it was really helpful I truly appreciate it fishing 🎣 powers 💪🏼✌🏼💛
If you do any structure trolling you quickly learn to pick lures that will dive deep with a short amount of line out so the lure better tracks the path of the boat and still hits bottom. Most crankbait seem to have a dive curve of 3 to 5 to 1. Meaning 3 to 5' of line out for every one foot of lure running depth. I'd love to find a crankbait that has a 2 to 1 dive curve.
Excelent video as usual! I like trolling in my kayak, and your videos are helping me in making lures that suit my needs. I was looking for a lure that dived as deep as possible without having to ad any lead sinkers to the line, but also with a correct action to atract the fish. The solution it's been a deep diver swimbait.
It resulted to perform just as I spected and I'm looking forward to the "trolling season" in Mallorca (June to September) for triying it.
A suggestion: please could you write on the screen the equivalent on metrical system when you talk about measurements in feet or inches? It would help a lot of your fans to understand immediately what you are explaining.
Thanks for all your very understandable and useful teaching!!!
I'll try to remember to include the metric units, thanks for the suggestion. Cheers
Fascinating.... Thank you very much
Glad you enjoyed it
When is the final exam coming up? Felt like I was in a class studying for a exam. Info I’m sure a lot of people didn’t know regarding lure designs
Every lure you make... That's the exam.
@@EngineeredAngler might as well assume it’s a “C”. Have always been a C student
very good information for a someone new into making lure like my self. thank you. Giant Snakehead
Glad it was helpful!
Greedings from Greece! Amazing videos and craftmanship! I would love to watch a tutorial video about making polyurethane resin needle fish lure (the jack fin stylo type). Explaining how to place the weights so it performs the best. It is a very popular type of salt water lure for bluefish mostly.
Keep on amazing us!
Great suggestion!
Excelent video, with a ton of technical info, which you dont get in the internet easily. Thanks.
So, I understand that the more surface area the lip has, the more force against the retrive it will make and tend to dive more. What I doesnt understand is why the same applys to the surface area of the top of the lure. I would have thought that because that area is behind the line tie and lip, it could apply an inverse force, making the front of the lure rise instead of dive... Thats why I tought banana shape lures dive deeper. But according to your explanation this is the opposite way...
its not always easy to intuit...
Great video and answered some questions I've had. I basically go sea fishing over here in the UK, would the weight in the lure, sea conditions and temperature effect the drive. I want to make top water lures, driving lures down to about 8-10 foot and lures that go even deeper. I realise the shape and weight of certain lures will sink to the bottom but what I'm trying to say would a torpedo or similar shape to really deep if trolled amongst other things. Thanking you in anticipation.
Great video! No mention of tie-on placement?
You need to watch again....
Franco are there any issues with the weight distribution on the deep diving lures you have tested. As far as placementand the amounts. Along with the bib angles and the lure shape.
OK now I want to see you make a lure that maximizes dive depth with a decent action. (how low can you go...) My buddy asked if I could make a lure that will dive 40 feet, my knee jerk response was that I didn't think it was possible. However after doing some research and poking around the internet I think it is possible just really really challenging.
40 feet is a stretch...it would have to be an extreme design and it would have to really cast a long way...sounds like a fun project.
@@EngineeredAngler Well we want to fish for Ling cod from a kayak. Lings are often even deeper than 40 feet, we'll likely use it in conjunction with a down-rigger but we don't want the down-rigger anywhere near the bottom. A hung rigger weight can be a safety hazard in current and the weights aren't cheap either. But mostly I just want to see if I can pull it off. With the info that you shared and some commercial designed baits as a template I think I have a shot. Even if I get one that goes 25 feet that would probably be a good start.
Hi E-A. Do you have any videos covering how to weight and distribute weight in crankbaits? I have learned a lot from your videos on making lures, especially crankbaits. However, I'm struggling to find good guidance on determining how much weight to add and how to distribute the weight to get the action I want but prevent the lure from rolling or blowing out. Any advice or refences?
Look for my Crackbait Master classes.
My notes of all 3 crank bait master class lectures
Class 1
- skinny lip causes head shake or wobble
- Wide lip causes roll back and forth
- If you want the most roll have the wide lip and put tie on eye as close to lip as possible without it getting totally out of balance
Class 2
- He explains why moving the tie on eye closer to the lip creates more instability (moving it closer to center of drag). The closer to the lip the more erratic. The farther away (up), the more smooth and stable
- Sometimes a round bodied (hydrodynamic) lure can have a tendency to porpoise depending on the tie on eye because the turbulence isn’t causing it to shake or roll
Class 3
- Factors that are important for depth of dive
- bib angle (closer to parallel to body/. shallow angle = deeper dive)
- length of lure/flat top (longer = deeper) because it keeps lure from going completely vertical
- size of bib: longer bib causes faster dive at beginning. You may need to move tie on eye down onto the bib to increase erratic action (implied from class 1). If you move it too far past the center of the area of the bib, it will become unstable
- bonus from EA comment section: weight distribution mostly affects action. Weight towards front = more energetic action. Weight towards the back = less action but possibly a deeper dive. Sinking or neutral lures will go deeper than floating ones
Dude, Nice!
Thanks for sharing with everyone
Hi sir
How thick almunium foil is best to buy for lure making purposes ...
You can use very thin household foil, but you have to be careful handling it. If you can find air-conditioning foil tape, that is the best.
@@EngineeredAngler f9 airconditioning tapr thnx,, how many mm will be best
👍👍👍👍💖💖