Very cool David! The fridge compressor will be fine. They are designed to operate with high back pressure. Look at the size of the constriction tube in the AC unit - it's probably only a couple of mm bore. Fit an in-line needle valve to control the flow and add a pressure relief valve before the needle valve set to about 10 Bar. The worst the fridge compressor will do is overheat. They normally have a bi-metalic thermal cut-off inside which shuts it down when it gets too hot & back on when it cools (a bit like a welder!). You should be able to find a flow rate at which the heater is happy and the relief valve dows not open. If not, add another needle valve, venting to the atmosphere to bleed off a little bit of pressure.
Exactly what I was about to suggest. Just bleed off any pressure that’s excessive. Underrated little bits of kit those pumps, great to use as a vacuum pump too.
Damn that burns good. Just get a air pressure adjuster for an air line, they are used for in in front of HVLP spray guns to adjust pressure. Cheap and very adjustable. Then just have a pressure switch (or two, in series, for redundancy) that turns the compressor on and off. And leave the plastic hose, in hopes that if somehow both air switches failed shut, and it ever when nuclear, the air hose would burst before the compressor.
On the air receiver front, using an old Co2 fire extinguisher is a fairly safe way to go..... They are smaller and are designed for very high pressures, so using them at a lower pressure will give very good safety margins..... Also, they are often available for scrap!
I run mine using an old 240v hot air gun. heating element removed and the resistor from the motor, then it runs on 12volts. works great (old Black & Decker unit that stop working on mains. If I use the air feed nozzle I have a pressure reduction control and run at 3 to 5 psi. I normally run as a gravity drip feed, as the air nozzle is a bit noisy. Old engine oil or brake fluid works well.
A tubular mesh in the flame tube smaller than the tube may help combustion. To reduce the air pressure from the compressor you could put in a bleed off valve so you don't restrict the compressor
I agree with @simon_rafferty compressor is designed to run with a back pressure. My other thought, just put a tee junction on the compressor outlet with a tap, then you can open the tap and “dump” some of the pressure to atmosphere rather than it going through the burner. Easy peasy 🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳
Few differences to my design. I’ve a needle valve on both the fuel input and air line, 2nd thing, you’ve mounted the burner at the start of the pipe, on mine it’s at the end, air is blown in to provide air for burner AND, cool the nozzle. I’ve melted a nozzle in the past running without air. So, be interested to see how you get on after say, an hours run time. Saying that without the forced air your flame is pretty relaxed. I’m a bit conscious of you melting your pipe pretty quickly. But hey, all looks good.
Nice ! I'm impressed with the pump. How about just using that pump, but bleeding off some of the pressure with a T and a ball valve ? It doesn't matter much if you are venting outside, but the oarage of that flame means there is a lot of CO. If you add some secondary air to the flame after the nozzle, this could clear it up a lot and make it produce a lot more heat. I think how this is done is by reducing the hole size were the nozzle and igniter fit in, and then add louvers to the burn tube, just after the flame initiation point. Then, your whole current setup is fit inside another pipe, and a fan is blown in from the back. Most of the air will bypass the entrance of the inner tube and feed in through the louvers ... I have not done any research so this is just speculation based on seeing other burners in the past. It would be cool if you were able to run a chimney, and the draft was enough to generate sufficient air flow to make it burn a little less orange. I'm glad you are working on this... I am starting my first "self cleaning" heater test today. Fingers crossed.
I was wondering similar - rather than cutting the air to turn it off, if you cut the fuel supply could you have a cool down cycle like the Chinese diesel heaters do?
Have you seen the little vane type compressor that a diesel space heater uses to run the same style nozzle? Im sure they just bolt to the back of the fan motor and a man of your calibre could re purpose one with a more manageable motor to produce long lasting almost silent air
The compressor is lubricated by an (organophosphate?)oil dissolved in the gas charge as in cars. It will eventually seize sadly in the absence of that oil.
Why not add a cheap regulator to the compressor's output, along with an over pressure device / popoff valve to keep from overpressuring the regulator's input?
How about starting with a forced air kerosene heater (here we call them diesel cannons because of the shape) and modify it instead of starting from scratch?
I did try that. It didn't like waste oil even when heated. If I had another I'd swap out the burner nozzle and just keep the housing. But they are still expensive even as non working.
Everything I have read where people have used these has been problematic. I think the housing design needs to be paid attention to and a straight short pipe is not the best way to go. I 'm feeling motivated to doing a few designs I have been thinking of.
Please, please do. I'm going to rake about in the scrap pile and see what other lengths of pipe I can find. Now I know that the little fridge compressor actually does the job I can experiment. :)
Maybe blow heat thru a 20 gal? drum (smaller if used for low # of hours most often) and fill drum with sand... tadaaaaaa.... sand heater... keeps area heated for half hour or longer after heater turns off via radiant heat (sand heat battery)
A propane tank works great as a air tank. Just mount it with the valve down . So no water builds up. A straight burn tube just is the wrong design. Look at rocket nozzle shape.
RUclipsr NOBOX7 has done tons of stuff on burners and he nearly always uses burn tubes which decrease in diameter at the outlet, the end does get hot (red hot at times), but that helps with an afterburn effect. I've been wanting to do something like this for a few years now, bought all of the bits but never got round to it. If you need any help with electronics (I was thinking - custom controller), I'd be more than happy to help.
They do. Eventually. There is a warning on them about only using in well ventilated spaces. But they also make an indirect version with a chimney that vents outside. But as always, more expensive.
![[SFM] Risky Recital](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RzNkY1_Nk3o/mqdefault.jpg)
Very cool David!
The fridge compressor will be fine. They are designed to operate with high back pressure. Look at the size of the constriction tube in the AC unit - it's probably only a couple of mm bore.
Fit an in-line needle valve to control the flow and add a pressure relief valve before the needle valve set to about 10 Bar.
The worst the fridge compressor will do is overheat. They normally have a bi-metalic thermal cut-off inside which shuts it down when it gets too hot & back on when it cools (a bit like a welder!).
You should be able to find a flow rate at which the heater is happy and the relief valve dows not open. If not, add another needle valve, venting to the atmosphere to bleed off a little bit of pressure.
Exactly what I was about to suggest. Just bleed off any pressure that’s excessive. Underrated little bits of kit those pumps, great to use as a vacuum pump too.
Damn that burns good.
Just get a air pressure adjuster for an air line, they are used for in in front of HVLP spray guns to adjust pressure. Cheap and very adjustable. Then just have a pressure switch (or two, in series, for redundancy) that turns the compressor on and off. And leave the plastic hose, in hopes that if somehow both air switches failed shut, and it ever when nuclear, the air hose would burst before the compressor.
I really like clicking on your channel and something new is in the works!
On the air receiver front, using an old Co2 fire extinguisher is a fairly safe way to go..... They are smaller and are designed for very high pressures, so using them at a lower pressure will give very good safety margins..... Also, they are often available for scrap!
You can keep the fridge compressor and add a variable leak on the air line with a t piece and needle valve, worked on mine to reduce the pressure
Just what I thought and it would probably be more energy efficient than restricting the compressor output, although that should work too.
I run mine using an old 240v hot air gun. heating element removed and the resistor from the motor, then it runs on 12volts. works great (old Black & Decker unit that stop working on mains. If I use the air feed nozzle I have a pressure reduction control and run at 3 to 5 psi. I normally run as a gravity drip feed, as the air nozzle is a bit noisy. Old engine oil or brake fluid works well.
A tubular mesh in the flame tube smaller than the tube may help combustion. To reduce the air pressure from the compressor you could put in a bleed off valve so you don't restrict the compressor
Use the bleed air for reheat and afterburn the garage down….perhaps not!😂
I agree with @simon_rafferty compressor is designed to run with a back pressure.
My other thought, just put a tee junction on the compressor outlet with a tap, then you can open the tap and “dump” some of the pressure to atmosphere rather than it going through the burner. Easy peasy 🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳🥳
You could install that in a long pipe and run the intake and exhaust outside and you may could use an air horn valve for your air
Fridge compressors are more quiet than AC compressors and to regulate pressure you could use air pressure regulator
Few differences to my design. I’ve a needle valve on both the fuel input and air line, 2nd thing, you’ve mounted the burner at the start of the pipe, on mine it’s at the end, air is blown in to provide air for burner AND, cool the nozzle. I’ve melted a nozzle in the past running without air. So, be interested to see how you get on after say, an hours run time. Saying that without the forced air your flame is pretty relaxed. I’m a bit conscious of you melting your pipe pretty quickly. But hey, all looks good.
Put a t in the air pressure out with a fitting so you can regulate the amount of air going to the burn nozzle
Nice ! I'm impressed with the pump. How about just using that pump, but bleeding off some of the pressure with a T and a ball valve ?
It doesn't matter much if you are venting outside, but the oarage of that flame means there is a lot of CO. If you add some secondary air to the flame after the nozzle, this could clear it up a lot and make it produce a lot more heat.
I think how this is done is by reducing the hole size were the nozzle and igniter fit in, and then add louvers to the burn tube, just after the flame initiation point. Then, your whole current setup is fit inside another pipe, and a fan is blown in from the back. Most of the air will bypass the entrance of the inner tube and feed in through the louvers ... I have not done any research so this is just speculation based on seeing other burners in the past.
It would be cool if you were able to run a chimney, and the draft was enough to generate sufficient air flow to make it burn a little less orange. I'm glad you are working on this... I am starting my first "self cleaning" heater test today. Fingers crossed.
I think I would put a solenoid in the fuel line, and turn it off first to let the burner burn itself clean. Otherwise... nice one!
I was wondering similar - rather than cutting the air to turn it off, if you cut the fuel supply could you have a cool down cycle like the Chinese diesel heaters do?
Somewhere in a small town near Glasgow there’s a boy racer driving around looking for his clip on exhaust 😂
Have you seen the little vane type compressor that a diesel space heater uses to run the same style nozzle? Im sure they just bolt to the back of the fan motor and a man of your calibre could re purpose one with a more manageable motor to produce long lasting almost silent air
I've been trying to find a new one for while now. The ones for the torpedo heaters I've seen is built into the fan and housing.
nice ...... that is on waste motor oil right? will have to look at previous videos on this to see your setup
Nice. I want to use waste oil. what size tip? I was thinking 2.0 mm
What portable diesel heater would you recommend!??
The compressor is lubricated by an (organophosphate?)oil dissolved in the gas charge as in cars. It will eventually seize sadly in the absence of that oil.
Why not add a cheap regulator to the compressor's output, along with an over pressure device / popoff valve to keep from overpressuring the regulator's input?
Neighbourhood now smells like a chipper 😂
on the plug in speed controller... assume you started it on high compressor speed setting and let the start up happen before you turned it down?
Yes, but it didn't start.
Can you use a dimmer switch to turn down the speed of the compressor so it puts out less pressure?
I did try to use a fan speed controller, but the compressor wouldn't start even on the highest setting.
Surely a fridge compressor is used to pump through a restriction? Thats part of a standard refrigerator circuit so it should be fine.....
Eventually this will advance to a model gas turbine and generate heat and power for the garage. You know it…and we know it!😂😂
lol that thing sounds like a jet engine!
will it be much difference to use the combustion to preheat the air going into the siphon nozzle as well as warming the fuel a little?
I'm going to try warming the fuel to see what that does to the combustion.
Use a tire inflator compressor. Should be fine for what you need!
Every tyre inflator I've used tries to roast itself after just a few minutes of running.
@@DavidMcLuckie perhaps, however being a dc motor it can be slowed down. I suspect you need very little in the way of air.
I wonder does the neighbours think you are designing some sort of a flying bomb maybe fueled on waste oil.
How about starting with a forced air kerosene heater (here we call them diesel cannons because of the shape) and modify it instead of starting from scratch?
I did try that. It didn't like waste oil even when heated. If I had another I'd swap out the burner nozzle and just keep the housing. But they are still expensive even as non working.
Everything I have read where people have used these has been problematic. I think the housing design needs to be paid attention to and a straight short pipe is not the best way to go.
I 'm feeling motivated to doing a few designs I have been thinking of.
Please, please do. I'm going to rake about in the scrap pile and see what other lengths of pipe I can find. Now I know that the little fridge compressor actually does the job I can experiment. :)
added bonus , it sounds like a jet engine ( i wonder why ) .. lol
Maybe blow heat thru a 20 gal? drum (smaller if used for low # of hours most often) and fill drum with sand... tadaaaaaa.... sand heater... keeps area heated for half hour or longer after heater turns off via radiant heat (sand heat battery)
just make your own PRV
Wouldn't you have some carbon monoxide problems if it were in the workshop??😮
I'm going to put it inside something for radiant heat exhausted outside.
A propane tank works great as a air tank. Just mount it with the valve down . So no water builds up. A straight burn tube just is the wrong design. Look at rocket nozzle shape.
How did you know that's exactly what I've been watching videos on now. :)
Lol ignitors will bite the shit out of you!!
Hand was a little tingly for a while. :)
RUclipsr NOBOX7 has done tons of stuff on burners and he nearly always uses burn tubes which decrease in diameter at the outlet, the end does get hot (red hot at times), but that helps with an afterburn effect. I've been wanting to do something like this for a few years now, bought all of the bits but never got round to it. If you need any help with electronics (I was thinking - custom controller), I'd be more than happy to help.
I don't get how these space heaters, don't fill the space with fumes. Even the big commercial diesel space heaters.
They do. Eventually. There is a warning on them about only using in well ventilated spaces. But they also make an indirect version with a chimney that vents outside. But as always, more expensive.