Hello, I purchased a stack fuel injector for my front engine dragster, man i wouldn't have ever been able to put this thing together without this series, great job and thanks.
You are doing great . I am building a 38 Topolino altered with Hilborn FI and a Glide. I raced 60 years ago with Enderle FI but need a refresher. Keep up the good work.
im so glad i finally found good information on mechanical fuel injection. I hadn't been able to find anyone else who could show me what i would actually need to know to set one of these systems up
I always wanted to know the theory behind this system. I am well versed in diesel fuel injection systems. The Cummins P.T. Fuel system uses a barrel valve system very similar to this system. The P.T. System came out in 1954 and it was used thru the 1980,s. You made a very good video showing the theory and hands on portion. Keep up the good work , as my next move is to ditch the tunnel ram an go to mechanical injection. Very helpful info !!
Lots of good info on your videos. I'm not sure if you went over the size of your injectors and cubic inches of the motor. Maybe I missed that. Just curious.
Thanks for the reply G. I will do that after I discuss the Main Jet (pill) and High Speed Bypass. Then I'll try to tie it all together and we'll see if it starts...
Thanks for that once again very informative.What’s your opinion on running this mechanical system on the street,I know EFI is the norm now but I like the old school system.Looking forward to part 3
Hello Sergio. It is very tough to get a mechanical injection tuned to a "mid throttle" fuel curve. This system is basically designed for all out racing, either idle plus a little, OR wide open throttle. That being said, it has been done. There was a guy I knew (40+ years ago) that ran one on a 327 on gas in a Camaro. He drove it everywhere. He was our home town version of John Melner from the movie American Graffiti. Cheers friend!
Hey Randy. I've just re-watched all the parts of your mechanical F.I. series. Excellent! Question: Do you have a link or source for the small digitial 100psi sauges? I order the L.P. gas oriface, but I can't find those gauges. Thanks.
Yes, that is correct. You want to always insure your "reference pressure" (the gauge on the left) is adjusted to 100psi. Otherwise, the measurement you take by reading the right hand gauge means absolutely nothing...
@@digitaloverdrivesystems Great job with your home made tester ! 🇺🇸 when you were explaining turbulence in between the two gauges seems as though you’re gas fitting should be installed next to your second gauge ? Anyway looking forward for your whole series on mechanical injection ! Wish I had the knowledge to convert one to electronic 🤪 👍
If you are talking about the barrel valve, I was adjusting the hex link between the barrel valve and the master shaft. Shortening it reduced the leakage rate and lengthening it increases it (the % or amount of fuel that leaks to the nozzles). I hope that helps.
@@gibbsey9579 On a carb, the idle speed screw is a stop on the butterfly opening, so you are adjusting the air at idle. On a constant flow injection, the butterflies get set permanently and you adjust the amount of fuel using the barrel valve. So yes, it is similar as you are adjusting the fuel mixture at idle, but they both work a little differently...
Where did you buy that orifice to build a leakdown tester? Brand & part number would really helpout. I have 3 "store bought" testers & every damn one of them test differently
The link is in the description, but here it is again. www.globalindustrial.com/p/261225-orifice?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CjwKCAiA_6yfBhBNEiwAkmXy5yC4jZr4wAxV5wMS0C0KH8WpahrpYEAd1lsV2XikGHY5BcY9IbiWfBoCip8QAvD_BwE I have a few extra. If you cannot find one, let me know...
So based on my understanding of your video, the reason for the secondary bypass (idle bypass) would be situations say: 1) In sprint cars, snapping the throttle closed at the end of the straightaway 2) In drag cars, snapping the throttle closed at the end of the run At high RPM - since the fuel pump is creating pressure directly proportional to engine RPM- with the throttle suddenly closed, the excess fuel pressure is bled off through the secondary circuit to avoid dumping too much fuel into the engine on the overrun (kind of like a decel fuel cut in EFI). However, at that point the engine will still be getting the amount of fuel that “leaks” through the barrel valve since an MFI setup is unable to tell whether the throttles are closed because of coasting or idling. Does all of that sound right?
Go watch my Part 3. It explains why you need a idle bypass. Parts 1 and 2 have useful info as well that may help you. ruclips.net/video/oEu6jTBrQxY/видео.html
Hello Randy, another great video - thanks. HA - call me 'paranoid' - but I had to cringe when I saw you using your bare hand on 100 PSI air outlet - best NOT to do - just for safety - "Compressed air can penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream, potentially causing an embolism. This is a condition where a pocket is created by the blast of air inside a blood vessel. Once this pocket of air enters the brain or heart, it can lead to stroke or sudden cardiac arrest. The threshold for skin penetration is around 100 psi (approximately 6.8 bar)." Better to be 'safe than sorry' - use a heavy glove or avoid doing it all together. Again - thanks for the video. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
That is partially correct. The idle bypass circuit is out of the equation at ~25% throttle, the barrel valve continues to meter fuel to the injectors at a rate based on the ramp grind on the spool of the barrel valve. I discussed that a little in parts 1 and 3. Cheers!
A lot of channels are afraid to get too technical, maybe for views. Some of us watch to learn things. Thumbs 👍.
Sir ive been running mechanical injection hat style for over 20 years and I'm learning. Great teching❤
Hello, I purchased a stack fuel injector for my front engine dragster, man i wouldn't have ever been able to put this thing together without this series, great job and thanks.
Do you have it running? Share some pics! Randy
Best Video on the subject I've seen yet.
No way, not wasting your time! Really helpful.
Just bought a B.B. Crower staggered top. Took it apart to sand blast and reinstall all parts to test. Great videos! Keep them coming.
Be sure to protect the shaft holes from sandblast. You dont want the shafts to leak. Good luck and have fun. Share a pic when you're done. Cheers!
You are doing great . I am building a 38 Topolino altered with Hilborn FI and a Glide. I raced 60 years ago with Enderle FI but need a refresher. Keep up the good work.
Always been intrigued by mechanical, especially on the street. Doing good, man.
Thank you again, so nice too see somebody help us newbies to continue with the mechanical injection
Excellent information and easily understood. I have always wanted to learn how MFI worked and how to set it up! Keep up the great work
im so glad i finally found good information on mechanical fuel injection. I hadn't been able to find anyone else who could show me what i would actually need to know to set one of these systems up
I always wanted to know the theory behind this system. I am well versed in diesel fuel injection systems. The Cummins P.T. Fuel system uses a barrel valve system very similar to this system. The P.T. System came out in 1954 and it was used thru the 1980,s. You made a very good video showing the theory and hands on portion. Keep up the good work , as my next move is to ditch the tunnel ram an go to mechanical injection. Very helpful info !!
540 BBC crower 2.9" stacks on methanol, thanks for these videos!!!
I just got a hillborn mechanical injection and this is fantastic knowledge for me thank you 🙏
I really enjoy learning about technology. Thanks for sharing this.
Excellent step by step. I've been doing it the hard way for years. Thanks!
Glad it helped!
Lots of good info on your videos. I'm not sure if you went over the size of your injectors and cubic inches of the motor. Maybe I missed that. Just curious.
@@deanwaltman205 its in part 4 i think. Cheers!
@@deanwaltman205 look at part 5 for pill and jet sizing. Cheers
Thanks so much! I've got a vintage Hilborn setup for the vintage dragster that I've been building. This info is very helpful. I appreciate it.
Super interesting getting experienced with this stuff can hurt your pocket so iam loving this thanks for the great contents 😃
Awesome work and content mate!
You do a great job at explaining everything in detail 🍻👍
Appreciate ya!
Its great you are teaching this .I have a small block mopar with Rons injection on alky. Too many people are afraid of this.
Have always wanted to know about mechanical injection, thanks
These videos are so fascinating. Thanks for making these!
Nicely done! I picked up a few things I didn't know about my MFI system.
Hey Shawn - Just curious as to what you didn't know about. Will help me to know level of detail in the future. Cheers!
Great content! Just used these tips on a BBC methanol tractor puller 👌👌💪💪💪
Thanks Darryl, I aways dug the pullers. Have fun.
excellent, i am learning about mechanical injection, a lot of good information.
Well done on Pt 1.
Thank you for the information I gained from part 1
Great information, I love it.
Thanks for watching!
Great stuff. Keep it coming.
I would like your thoughts on high speed jetting and at what pressures to have them open
Great content! How about a quick tour of the car and what type of racing to sort of put things in perspective.
Thanks for the reply G. I will do that after I discuss the Main Jet (pill) and High Speed Bypass. Then I'll try to tie it all together and we'll see if it starts...
Awesome job love the technology your explaining
Keep them coming. Learing alot
Thanks for that once again very informative.What’s your opinion on running this mechanical system on the street,I know EFI is the norm now but I like the old school system.Looking forward to part 3
Hello Sergio. It is very tough to get a mechanical injection tuned to a "mid throttle" fuel curve. This system is basically designed for all out racing, either idle plus a little, OR wide open throttle. That being said, it has been done. There was a guy I knew (40+ years ago) that ran one on a 327 on gas in a Camaro. He drove it everywhere. He was our home town version of John Melner from the movie American Graffiti. Cheers friend!
Yes I was wondering about that but you just can’t beat the looks of those stacks!
Another awesome video thank you again!
Are you the same Doug Danger in Scottsmore Fl????
Hey Randy. I've just re-watched all the parts of your mechanical F.I. series. Excellent! Question: Do you have a link or source for the small digitial 100psi sauges? I order the L.P. gas oriface, but I can't find those gauges. Thanks.
I found some.
These look close but please verify. Thanks for subscribing... amzn.to/3Ahp94l
Thank you for taking the trouble to explain this 👍
Hi Steve, I hope it helps you.
Love it, subscribed
I would like to know more about lucas Mc Kay Kinsler Can Am motor injection and the distrubitor
The gauge on the left should be at 100psi AFTER you connect to your barrel valve or even when you attached the open ended hose coupler.
Yes, that is correct. You want to always insure your "reference pressure" (the gauge on the left) is adjusted to 100psi. Otherwise, the measurement you take by reading the right hand gauge means absolutely nothing...
@@digitaloverdrivesystems Great job with your home made tester ! 🇺🇸 when you were explaining turbulence in between the two gauges seems as though you’re gas fitting should be installed next to your second gauge ? Anyway looking forward for your whole series on mechanical injection ! Wish I had the knowledge to convert one to electronic 🤪 👍
Great vid! I wanted to know what you adjusted.
If you are talking about the barrel valve, I was adjusting the hex link between the barrel valve and the master shaft. Shortening it reduced the leakage rate and lengthening it increases it (the % or amount of fuel that leaks to the nozzles). I hope that helps.
@@digitaloverdrivesystems So... A bit like the idle speed screw on a carb?
@@gibbsey9579 On a carb, the idle speed screw is a stop on the butterfly opening, so you are adjusting the air at idle. On a constant flow injection, the butterflies get set permanently and you adjust the amount of fuel using the barrel valve. So yes, it is similar as you are adjusting the fuel mixture at idle, but they both work a little differently...
Where did you buy that orifice to build a leakdown tester? Brand & part number would really helpout. I have 3 "store bought" testers & every damn one of them test differently
The link is in the description, but here it is again.
www.globalindustrial.com/p/261225-orifice?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CjwKCAiA_6yfBhBNEiwAkmXy5yC4jZr4wAxV5wMS0C0KH8WpahrpYEAd1lsV2XikGHY5BcY9IbiWfBoCip8QAvD_BwE
I have a few extra. If you cannot find one, let me know...
So based on my understanding of your video, the reason for the secondary bypass (idle bypass) would be situations say:
1) In sprint cars, snapping the throttle closed at the end of the straightaway
2) In drag cars, snapping the throttle closed at the end of the run
At high RPM - since the fuel pump is creating pressure directly proportional to engine RPM- with the throttle suddenly closed, the excess fuel pressure is bled off through the secondary circuit to avoid dumping too much fuel into the engine on the overrun (kind of like a decel fuel cut in EFI). However, at that point the engine will still be getting the amount of fuel that “leaks” through the barrel valve since an MFI setup is unable to tell whether the throttles are closed because of coasting or idling. Does all of that sound right?
Go watch my Part 3. It explains why you need a idle bypass. Parts 1 and 2 have useful info as well that may help you. ruclips.net/video/oEu6jTBrQxY/видео.html
Great video
Hello Randy, another great video - thanks. HA - call me 'paranoid' - but I had to cringe when I saw you using your bare hand on 100 PSI air outlet - best NOT to do - just for safety - "Compressed air can penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream, potentially causing an embolism. This is a condition where a pocket is created by the blast of air inside a blood vessel. Once this pocket of air enters the brain or heart, it can lead to stroke or sudden cardiac arrest. The threshold for skin penetration is around 100 psi (approximately 6.8 bar)." Better to be 'safe than sorry' - use a heavy glove or avoid doing it all together. Again - thanks for the video. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Normally, the barrell valve is out of the equation at 25% throttle.
That is partially correct. The idle bypass circuit is out of the equation at ~25% throttle, the barrel valve continues to meter fuel to the injectors at a rate based on the ramp grind on the spool of the barrel valve. I discussed that a little in parts 1 and 3. Cheers!